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A Handbook of Invalid Cooking

by Mary A. Boland

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The Carbohydrates

Starch. Starch is a substance found in wheat, corn, oats, and in fact in all grains, in potatoes, in the roots and stems of many plants, and in some fruits. In a pure state it is a white powder such as is seen in arrowroot and corn-starch. Examined by a microscope this powder is found to be made up of tiny grains of different shapes and sizes, some rounded or oval, others irregular. Those of potato-starch are ovoid, with an outside covering which appears to be folded or ridged, and looks somewhat like the outside of an oyster-shell, although its similarity extends no further than appearance, as the little ridges are true folds, and not overlapping edges.

Size of Starch Grains. Starch grains vary in size according to the source from which the starch is obtained. Those of ground rice are very small, being about 1 3000 of an inch in diameter; those of wheat are 1 1000 of an inch, and those of potato 1 300 of an inch.

Starch is a carbohydrate, being composed of six parts of carbon, ten of hydrogen, and five of oxygen. Its symbol is C6H10O5. It is insoluble in water, but when the water is heated, the grains seem to absorb it; they increase in size, the ridges or folds disappear, and when the temperature reaches 140° Fahr. or a little over, they burst, and the contents mingle with the liquid forming the well-known paste.

Test for Starch. Mix a teaspoon of starch with a cup of cold water and boil them together for a few minutes until a paste is formed; then set it aside to cool. Meanwhile make a solution of iodine by putting a few flakes into alcohol, or use that which is already prepared, and which may be obtained at any pharmacy. Add a drop of this solution to the paste mixture; it will immediately color the whole a rich dark blue. This is known as the “iodine test,” and is a very valuable one to the chemist, for by means of it the slightest trace of starch can be detected.

Exp. with Arrowroot. Make a thin paste by boiling a little arrowroot and water together. When cool test it with a drop of the iodine solution. The characteristic blue color will be very strong, showing that arrowroot is rich in starch.

Similar tests may be made with grated potato, wheat-flour, rice-flour, tapioca, and other starch-containing substances. Also powdered sugar, cream of tartar, and other substances may be tested, when it is suspected that they have been adulterated with starch.

Although starch grains burst and form a paste with water at 140° Fahr., that is not the temperature at which it should be cooked for food, and the thickening which then takes place should not be confounded, as often happens, with the true cooking of starch. In order to understand the difference between the proper cooking of starch and the simple bursting of the grains, let us consider the changes which take place in starch when it is subjected to different degrees of heat, and also those which are produced in it during the process of digestion. All starch in food is changed into dextrine and then into sugar (glucose, C6H12O6) in the process of digestion. Glucose is a kind of sugar, resembling cane-sugar, but it is not so sweet.

Dextrine. Dextrine is a substance having the same chemical nature as starch, but differing in many of its properties. It may be described as a condition which starch assumes just before its change into glucose.

Exp. to show Dextrine. Carefully dry and then heat a little starch to about 400° Fahr. Keep it at this temperature until it turns brown, or for ten minutes. Then mix it with water, when it will dissolve, forming a gummy solution. Starch will not do this. Test it with iodine; it will not change color. The remarkable thing about the relation of dextrine to starch is that although they differ so much in properties they have the same chemical composition.

The change of starch into dextrine is an important point in cooking, because starch cannot be assimilated until the conversion has taken place, either before or after it is eaten. Now it will be seen that unless this change is either produced or approached in the cooking of starch-containing foods, they are not prepared as well as it is possible to prepare them; also, that it is not possible to cause this change at a low temperature; therefore 140° (the temperature at which the grains burst) should not be regarded as the cooking temperature of starch. It should be such a temperature as shall actually convert it into dextrine, or at least change it to such an extent that it will be more easily converted into dextrine, and ultimately into sugar, by the digestive fluids. This should be as near 401° Fahr. as practicable,—not that a potato, or a loaf of bread, or a pudding will have all the starch in it changed when it is put into an oven of that temperature. It would not be possible, on account of the water contained in each; but that in the outside may be, and the preparation of the remainder will be better than at a lower temperature.

There are other means of changing starch into dextrine than by heat, one of the most remarkable of which is diastase, a substance found in sprouting grains, which has the power to transform the starch stored in the grain by nature into soluble dextrine, in which form it can be taken up by the young plant for food. The crude starch could not thus be absorbed. The starch which we use as food is of no more value to us than it is to the young plant until it has been changed into dextrine or sugar. Now, if art outside of the body can accomplish what nature is otherwise forced to do in the alimentary canal, the body will be saved a certain amount of force,—a point of great importance, especially in the case of the sick or invalid, who can ill afford to waste energy.

Starch constitutes half of bread, our “staff of life”; nearly all of rice, the staff of life in the East; and the greater part of corn-starch, sago, arrowroot, tapioca, peas, beans, turnips, carrots, and potatoes.

Arrowroot is the purest form of starch food known. Rice is richest in starch of all the grains. Tapioca is prepared from the root of a tropical plant; it is first crushed and the grains washed out with water, then the whole is heated and stirred, thus cooking and breaking the starch grains, which on cooling assume the irregular rough shapes seen in the ordinary tapioca of commerce. Probably a part of the starch is converted into dextrine, which accounts for the peculiarly agreeable flavor which tapioca possesses. Mixed with the grains, as they are taken from the plant, is a very dangerous poison which, being soluble in water and volatile, is partially washed away and partially driven out by the heat,—in fact the heating is done for this purpose. Sago is principally starch. It is obtained from the pith of the sago-palm. Imitations of both tapioca and sago are sometimes made from common starch.

Starch may be converted into grape-sugar by treating it with acids; that of corn is generally used for the purpose. Much of the glucose of commerce is made in this way. In the United States it is estimated that $10,000,000 worth is manufactured every year. It is used for table syrup, in brewing beer, in the adulteration of cane-sugar, and in confectionery. Honey is also made from it. The nutritive value of vegetables is due largely to the starch and sugar which they contain.

In the economy of the body starch is eminently a heat producer. Pound for pound it does not give as much heat as fat, but owing to its great abundance and extensive use it, in the aggregate, produces more. (Atwater.)

Starch is an abundant and easily digested form of vegetable food, but it is incapable of sustaining life. It contains none of the nitrogenous matter needed for the nutrition of the muscles, nerves, and tissues. Indeed, it is said on good authority that many an invalid has been slowly starved to death from being fed upon this material alone.

Sugar. There are many kinds of sugar, the most familiar of which is cane-sugar, or sucrose (C12H22O11). It is obtained from the juices of various plants, for instance, sugar-cane, beet-root, the sugar-maple, and certain kinds of palms. By far the greatest amount comes from the sugar-cane. It is made by crushing the stalks of the plant (which somewhat resembles Indian corn) and extracting the sweet juice, which is then clarified and evaporated until, on cooling, crystals appear in a thick liquid; this liquid is molasses, and the grains or crystals are brown sugar. White sugar is obtained by melting this brown sugar in water, removing the impurities, and again evaporating in vacuum-pans, which are used for the purpose of boiling the liquid at a lower temperature than it could be boiled in the open air, thus avoiding the danger of burning, and otherwise preserving certain qualities of the sugar. Loaf-sugar is made by separating the crystals from the liquid by draining in molds; and granulated sugar by forcing out the syrup in a centrifugal machine. The process of making beet-root sugar is similar. Sugar from maple sap is obtained by simply evaporating away the excess of water. In the East a considerable quantity of sugar is made from the juices of certain varieties of palm, especially the date-palm. Maple-sugar and palm-sugar are generally not purified.

Sucrose dissolves readily in water. By allowing such a solution to stand undisturbed for a time until the water has disappeared, transparent crystals are obtained, known as rock candy. Again, sucrose melted at a temperature of 320° Fahr. forms, on cooling, a clear mass, called barley-sugar. Heated to 420° Fahr. dissociation of the carbon from the water of crystallization takes place, the carbon appearing in its characteristic black color. This dark brown, sweetish-bitter syrup is called caramel. On cooling it forms a solid, which may be dissolved in water, and is used to color gravies, soups, beer, and so forth.

Exp. with Sulphuric Acid. A very pretty experiment to show the separation of the water from the carbon may be made by treating a little sugar in sulphuric acid. Put a tablespoon of sugar in any vessel that will bear heat, a thin glass or stout cup. Pour over enough concentrated sulphuric acid to thoroughly moisten it, let it stand for a few minutes, when it will be seen that the mass has changed color from white to a yellowish brown. The color increases in intensity until it is perfectly black, when the whole puffs and swells up, fumes are driven off, and a mass like a cinder remains. This is charcoal, or nearly pure carbon.

The explanation is as follows: So strong is the affinity of the acid for the water that it breaks up the chemical combination between it and the carbon, unites with the water, and leaves the carbon free. So intense is the chemical change that an enormous amount of heat is evolved,—so much, in fact, that a considerable part of the water is vaporized, leaving the more or less solid charcoal. The light color noticed during the first part of the union indicates that the chemical dissociation is just beginning, and that only a small amount of carbon has been set free.

Glucose. Glucose or grape-sugar (C6H12O6) is one of the kinds of sugar found in grapes, peaches, and other fruits. It is about two and one half times less sweet than cane-sugar. It is manufactured on a large scale from the starch of corn.

Lactose. Lactose or milk-sugar is the sugar found in the milk of the Mammalia. That of commerce comes chiefly from Switzerland, where it is made by evaporating the whey of cow’s milk. For sweetening drinks for infants and for the sick, milk-sugar is said to be less liable to produce acid fermentation than cane-sugar, and also to be more easily digested.

Sugar is a valuable nutrient, being very easily digested and absorbed. Cane-sugar is converted into glucose in the process of digestion by the pancreatic juice, and after absorption it is completely utilized in the body, furnishing heat and probably energy.

Effects of Heat on Sugar. Sugar undergoes various changes, with different degrees of heat, by loss of some of its water of crystallization. One of the most remarkable of these is seen in caramel sauce, which is a rich crimson-brown syrup generally supposed to contain foreign coloring matter, but which does not. It is made by melting sugar without water, and heating it until the desired hue and thickness are reached. Nothing is added, but something is taken away; that is, some of the water is driven out, with the result of change in both color and taste.

In a recent article in “The Century Magazine” (November, 1891) Prof. Atwater touches upon the subject of the production of artificial foods from the crude materials of the earth, and states, among other things, that a sugar resembling fruit-sugar has been made artificially by synthesis, by Prof. Fischer of Würzburg, Germany.

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