Macaroni
In buying macaroni, choose that of a large pipe; see that it is clean and white and that it has not been touched by insects. Half a pound makes one dish. If soaked before boiling it is apt to dissolve or go to pieces, but wash and drain it through cold water in a sieve. Have over the fire a large pan of boiling water, in which has been melted a piece of fresh butter the size of an egg. If boiled steadily, it will be quite tender in less than an hour; but do not boil it so long that the pipes break up and lose their shape. Having drained it well through a clean sieve, transfer it to a deep dish, dividing it into four layers, having first cut it into even lengths of two or three inches. Between the layers place on it seasoning of grated cheese of the very best quality, and bits of fresh butter, with some powdered mace. On the top layer, add to the covering of cheese and butter sufficient bread-crumbs to form a slight crust all over the surface. Brown it with a salamander or a red hot shovel. Or (omitting the cheese) you may dress it with rich gravy of roast meat.
For Sweet Macaroni.—Having boiled it in milk instead of water, drain it, and mix with it powdered mace and nutmeg, with butter, sugar, and rose or peach-water. Macaroni (like vermicelli) has in itself no taste, but is only made palatable by the manner of dressing it. Good soup is rather weakened than improved by the addition of macaroni.