Perfumes and Their Preparation

Chapter XXVI Skin Cosmetics and Face Lotions

The use of skin cosmetics and paints is of remote antiquity, but varies in different nations according to their civilization and their sense of beauty. While among certain Oriental nations dark blue rings around the eyes, with yellow lips and nails, pass for beautiful, the European prizes only a white skin with a delicate tinge of red; Italian ladies in the middle ages used the dark red juice of the fruit of the deadly night-shade as a paint, hence the name bella donna, i.e., beautiful lady. (According to Matthiolus, the name herba bella donna arose from the fact that Italian ladies used a distilled water of the plant as a cosmetic.) Owing to its marked effect on the eyes, by dilating the pupil and increasing the lustre, this juice also heightens the brilliancy of the eye, though at the expense of its health.

While in the last century face-painting was a universal fashion, it is nowadays resorted to only by persons whose skin requires some artificial help. But nobody desires that the cosmetic should be perceptible on the skin. Hence it must be laid down as a rule that paints and all cosmetics should be so compounded that it is not easily possible to the observer to recognize that some artificial means has been employed for beautifying the skin.

We give below a number of such articles, which come as near as possible to this ideal without injuring the skin. As every skin cosmetic cannot but occlude the pores of the skin, it should be removed as soon as possible—an advice to be heeded particularly by actors and actresses, who must appear painted on the boards.

A. White Skin Cosmetics

French White (Blanc Français)

Talcum	4 lb.
Oil of lemon	75 grains.
Oil of bergamot	75 grains.

The talcum must be reduced to the finest powder, levigated, dried, and then perfumed. Owing to its unctuous nature, it readily adheres to the skin, and as it has no effect on it and does not change color, it is the best of all powders.

Liquid Bismuth White; Pearl White (Blanc Perlé Liquide)

Subnitrate of bismuth	1 lb.
Rose water	1 qt.
Orange-flower water	1 qt.

When standing at rest, the subnitrate of bismuth sinks to the bottom, while the supernatant fluid becomes quite clear. The bottle must therefore be vigorously shaken immediately before use. When this preparation remains on the skin for some length of time, it loses its pure white color and becomes yellow, or darker, through the gradual formation of a black sulphur compound.

Venetian Chalk (Craie Venétienne) is made exactly like the French white, above; the only difference between the two preparations is that the talcum for the latter is brought to a red heat, which, however, causes it in part to lose the power of adhering to the skin.

B. Red Skin Cosmetics (Rouges)

Rouge Végetal Rose Liquide

Ammonia water	2 oz.
Carmine	1¼ oz.
Essence of rose (triple)	2½ oz.
Rose water	2 qts.

This superior preparation, which serves mainly for coloring the lips, is made as follows: Reduce the carmine to powder; macerate it in the ammonia in a three or four pint bottle for several days, add the other ingredients, and let it stand for a week under oft-repeated agitation. At the end of that time the bottle is left undisturbed until the contents have become quite clear, when they are carefully decanted and filled into bottles for sale.

In order to obtain this preparation in proper form, only the finest carmine should be used. That known in the market as “No. 40” is the best. This alone will produce a cosmetic that, when brought in contact with the skin, will give a vivid red color.

In place of carmine, which requires the presence of ammonia if it is to remain in solution, the anilin color known as eosine may be used. Of this, very minute amounts will be sufficient to impart the proper tint. It is impracticable to give exact proportions, as these must be determined in each case by experiment. It is necessary to avoid an excess. The tint of a liquid colored by eosine may not appear deep, and yet when it is applied to the skin a decidedly deeper stain than was desired may be produced. Hence each addition of fresh coloring matter must be carefully controlled by a practical test.

Rouge en Feuilles

Cut from thick, highly calendered paper circular disks about 2½ inches in diameter, and cover them with a layer of carmine containing just enough gum acacia to make it adhere to the paper. For use, the leaf is breathed on, a pledget of fine cotton is rubbed over it, and the adhering color is transferred to the skin.

Rouge en Pâte

Carmine	1 oz.
Talcum	21 oz.
Gum acacia	1¾ oz.

The ingredients in finest powder are mixed in a mortar by prolonged trituration, then water is added in small portions to form a doughy mass to be filled into shallow porcelain dishes about the diameter of a dollar. If the rouge is desired darker for the use of actors and dark-complexioned persons, the proportion of carmine should be increased.

Rouge en Tasses

Carthamin	1 oz.
Talcum powder	1 lb.
Gum acacia	1½ oz.
Oil of rose	15 grains.

This rouge, when dry, has a greenish metallic lustre; it is prepared and sold like rouge en pâte.

Bleu Végetal Pour les Veines

Venetian chalk	1 lb.
Berlin blue	1¾ oz.
Gum acacia	1 oz.

To the powdered solids add sufficient water to form a mass to be rolled into sticks. For use, a pencil is breathed on, rubbed against the rough side of a piece of white glove leather, and the veins are marked with the adhering color on the skin coated with pearl white. Of course, some dexterity is required to make the veins appear natural by the use of this blue color.

Rouge Alloxane (Alloxan Red; Murexide Paint)

Cold cream	1 lb.
Alloxan	75 grains.

Dissolve the alloxan in a little water and mix it intimately with any desired cold-cream. The mixture is white, but when transferred to the skin gradually becomes red. The preparation sold in Austria, etc., under the name of “Schnuda” is identical with this alloxan paint.

C. Face Lotions

The skin often contains spots with marked color which are more or less unsightly; for instance, freckles, liver spots, mother’s marks (nævi), etc. Unfortunately we know of no remedy which radically removes them; even chemical preparations with the most energetic effects, which of course must never be employed owing to their destructive action on the skin, cannot entirely do away with these dark spots which have their seat in the lower layers of the skin. But the public demands preparations for the removal of freckles, liver spots, etc., and—obtains them. We subjoin the formulas for several of such secret remedies, but declare emphatically that none of them will completely effect the desired result.

Freckle Milk (Lait Antéphelique)

Camphor	1¾ oz.
Ammonium chloride	¾ oz.
Corrosive sublimate	150 grains.
Albumen	3½ oz.
Rose water	2 lb.

We call attention to the fact that the sublimate (bichloride of mercury) is very poisonous and must be used with the greatest care.

Freckle Lotion

Angelica root	1¾ oz.
Black hellebore root	1¾ oz.
Storax	¾ oz.
Oil of bergamot	150 grains.
Oil of citron	150 grains.
Alcohol	2 qts.

Macerate for a week and filter.

Eau Lenticuleuse

Potassium carbonate	7 oz.
Sugar	¾ oz.
Orange-flower water	2 qts.
Alcohol	7 oz.

Lilionese I.

Potassium carbonate	14 oz.
Water	4 lb.
Rose water	14 oz.
Alcohol	7 oz.
Oil of rose	150 grains.
Oil of cinnamon	75 grains.

Lilionese II

Rose water	2 qts.
Orange-flower water	1 qt.
Glycerin	1 lb.
Potassium carbonate	3½ oz.
Tincture of benzoin	¾ to 1¾ oz.

Add only enough of the alcoholic tincture of benzoin to render the liquid slightly opalescent or milky.

Lotion for Chapped Skin

Glycerin	4 lb.
Water	1 qt.
Rose water	1 qt.

Color pale red with cochineal.

Eau de Perles

White soap	1 lb.
Dissolved in: Water	4 qts.
Glycerin	2 lb.
Add: Rose water	1 qt.
Tincture of musk	150 grains.

To be colored bluish with some indigo-carmin.

Teint de Venus

Alcoholic soap solution	2 qts.
Carbonate of potassium	3½ oz.
Extract of orange flower	3½ oz.

The soap solution is made as concentrated as possible, and the entire fluid colored with cochineal; in place of the extract of orange flower, other essences or extracts may also be employed. For use, some of the liquid is poured into the wash water.

Pulchérine

Carbonate of potassium	14 oz.
Water	4 lb.
Orange-flower water	2 lb.
Alcohol	3½ oz.
Oil of neroli	150 grains.
Tincture of vanilla	¾ oz.

The preceding preparations owe their activity merely to the presence of carbonate of potassium which forms an emulsion with the fat of the skin and thus resembles in its effects a mild soap. The other ingredients only serve to render the composition fragrant.

D. Toilet Powders

Toilet powders are used to impart whiteness and smoothness to the skin; hence they are merely a kind of dry cosmetic which are applied by means of a powder puff or a hare’s foot. Their main ingredients are starch and talcum powders, perfumed and sometimes tinted a rose-red color. It is immaterial what kind of starch is used; rice, wheat, and potato starch are equally effective, provided they are clear white and in the finest powder. In some cases the bitter-almond bran remaining after the expression of the fixed oil and the preparation of the oil of bitter almond is likewise used for toilet powders. The more thoroughly these powders are rubbed into the skin, the whiter the latter becomes and the less easily can they be detected.

White Toilet Powder

Fine levigated zinc white	1¾ oz.
Venetian talcum	1¾ oz.
Carbonate of magnesia	1¾ oz.
Oil of rose	20 drops.
Oil of orris	20 drops.

Mix intimately.

Pink Toilet Powder

White toilet powder (see above)	5½ oz.
Carmine	8 grains.

Poudre de Pistaches

Pistachio meal	10 lb.
Talcum	10 lb.
Oil of lavender	¾ oz.
Oil of rose	½ oz.
Oil of cinnamon	75 grains.

The oil must have been completely extracted from the pistachio meal, which is to be reduced to the finest powder.

Poudre à la Rose

Starch powder	20 lb.
Carmine	¾ oz.
Oil of rose	½ oz.
Oil of santal	½ oz.
Oil of vetiver	150 grains.

Poudre à la Violette

Starch powder	20 lb.
Orris root, in fine powder	10 lb.
Oil of bergamot	¾ oz.
Oil of lemon	¾ oz.
Oil of clove	150 grains.
Oil of neroli	150 grains.

Poudre Blanche Surfine (Poudre de Riz)

Starch powder	20 lb.
Subnitrate of bismuth	2 lb.
Oil of lemon	¾ oz.
Oil of rose	150 grains.

Blanc de Perles Sec (Dry Pearl White)

Venetian chalk	20 lb.
Subnitrate of bismuth	42 oz.
Zinc white	42 oz.
Oil of lemon	1½ oz.

Anti-Odorin

Starch powder	1 lb.
Salicylic acid	150 grains.

This mixture, which is best left unperfumed, does excellent service when used to prevent an offensive odor in stockings or shoes. The inside of the stockings is dusted with the powder, and every week a teaspoonful is sprinkled into the shoes.

Skin Gloss

Carbonate of potassium	1¾ oz.
Powdered spermaceti	1¾ oz.
Starch powder	1 lb.
Benzoin	¾ oz.
Oil of bitter almond	150 grains.

Mix intimately and preserve in well-closed boxes. For use, stir some into water.

Kaloderm

Wheat flour	4 lb.
Almond bran	1 lb.
Orris root, in fine powder	1 lb.
Extract of rose	1 pint.
Glycerin	6 fl. oz.

Form into a dough which is thinned with water and painted on the skin.

Musk Paste (for Washing the Hands)

Powdered white soap	2 lb.
Orris root, in fine powder	½ lb.
Starch powder	1½ oz.
Oil of lemon	¾ oz.
Oil of neroli	150 grains.
Tincture of musk	1½ fl. oz.
Glycerin	12 fl. oz.

Rub the starch with the glycerin in a mortar until they are thoroughly mixed. Then transfer the mixture to a porcelain capsule and apply a heat gradually raised to 284° F. (and not exceeding 290° F.), stirring constantly, until the starch granules are completely dissolved, and a translucent jelly is formed. Then gradually incorporate with it the powdered soap and orris root, and lastly the oils and tincture.