Perfumes and Their Preparation

Chapter XV Ammoniacal and Acid Perfumes

A. Ammoniacal Perfumes

Ammonia (ammonia water) has a disagreeable odor and exerts a very caustic effect on the lachrymal glands. Despite these properties, ammonia, in a highly dilute condition and mixed with other aromatics, finds manifold application in perfumery and serves particularly for the manufacture of the so-called smelling salts, or inexhaustible salts, used for filling smelling bottles.

The liquid or caustic ammonia, however, is not so suitable for the purposes of the perfumer as the carbonate of ammonia, which when pure forms colorless crystals usually covered with a white dust (consisting of bicarbonate of ammonia); these, undergoing gradual decomposition, give off the odor of ammonia and hence are more lasting in smelling bottles than the pure liquid ammonia.

The main essential for both of these substances is purity. Caustic ammonia as well as carbonate of ammonia are now obtained on a large scale from “gas liquor,” but the crude products always retain some of the penetrating odor of coal tar which renders them valueless for the purposes of the perfumer. We must, therefore, make it a rule to use nothing but perfectly pure materials which, moreover, are easily to be had in the market.

Inexhaustible Salt (Sel Inépuisable)

Oil of bergamot	24 grains.
Oil of lavender	45 grains.
Oil of mace	24 grains.
Oil of clove	24 grains.
Oil of rosemary	45 grains.
Water of ammonia	1 qt.

The aromatics are placed in a bottle, the ammonia is added, and the bottle vigorously shaken; the solution is soon effected, and the turbid liquid can be at once filled into bottles.

According to the material from which the containers are made, different methods must be adopted. It is necessary to give the liquid such form as to prevent its flowing out when the vessel is inverted; this is important, as the bottles are often carried in dress pockets and the ammonia destroys most colors. As a rule the vessels are filled with indifferent porous substances which are moistened with the perfume. If the container is made of box wood, ivory, porcelain, or some other opaque material, it is filled with fibres of asbestos or with very small pieces of sponge, and as much perfume is poured in as the substance can take up; the vessels are then inverted into a porcelain plate and allowed to drain, and are finally closed with a loose plug of cotton. If the container is transparent, it is better to use, instead of the asbestos or sponge which do not look neat, either small pieces of white pumice stone, powdered glass, small white glass beads, or crystals of sulphate of potassium which is insoluble in the perfume.

White Smelling Salt (Sel Blanc Parfumé)

While the first-named ammoniacal preparation is called a salt, it is really nothing but perfumed caustic ammonia; but white smelling salt is what its name indicates and can be perfumed as desired by the consumer; but as only certain scents harmonize with ammonia, not every odor can be employed; the most appropriate are oils whose odor resembles that of rose, and the oils of nutmeg and cinnamon.

Mix in a large porcelain jar—

Carbonate of ammonia	2 lb.
Caustic ammonia	1 lb.

Cover the jar and leave it at rest. After some days the mixture will have changed into a firm mass of monocarbonate of ammonia which is rubbed to a coarse powder, perfumed, and filled into bottles. The above quantities require:

Oil of bergamot	15 grains.
Oil of lavender	15 grains.
Oil of nutmeg	8 grains.
Oil of clove	8 grains.
Oil of rose	8 grains.
Oil of cinnamon	75 grains.

The oils are poured into a mortar and rubbed up with about one-tenth of the salt; of this perfumed salt enough is added to the several portions of the mass, and triturated until the odor is equally distributed. For cheaper smelling salts oils of geranium and cassia may be substituted for the oils of rose and cinnamon.

Preston Salt (Sel Volatil)

In this perfume ammonia is continually generated; the salt is prepared by mixing chloride of ammonium or sal-ammoniac in fine powder with freshly slaked lime. Fine or cheap perfume is added, according to the grade desired. The mixture of sal-ammoniac and slaked lime continually develops small amounts of ammonia—it takes a long time until the decomposition is complete, and for this reason a bottle filled with Preston salt retains the odor of ammonia for several years.

Eau de Luce

This is the only ammoniacal perfume used in a liquid form. It is made according to the following formula:

Tincture of ambergris	10½ oz.
Tincture of benzoin	½ lb.
Oil of lavender	150 grains.
Water of ammonia	1½ lb.

The tinctures are mixed with the ammonia by agitation and immediately filled into bottles; the liquid should have a milky appearance. At times 150 grains of white soap is added which aids in imparting to the liquid the desired milky appearance. In fine eau de Luce the odor of ambergris should predominate; this can be easily effected by increasing the amount of tincture of ambergris.

B. Acid Perfumes

As there is a group of perfumes which is distinguished by their characteristic odor of ammonia and which we have therefore called ammoniacal, so there is an important series of articles containing acetic acid which are used cosmetically as so-called toilet vinegars, and in some washes.

Ordinary vinegar, i.e., water containing four to six per cent of acetic acid, has, as is well known, a not unpleasant refreshing odor and a pure acid taste. Pure acetic acid, now made in large quantities and of excellent quality, is known commercially as glacial acetic acid. In commerce, it is customary to designate any acetic acid containing 85 or more per cent of the absolute acid, as glacial acetic acid. In chemical or pharmacopœial nomenclature, however, the glacial acid is meant to be as near 100% as possible. In perfumery, an 85% acid is sufficiently strong. It forms a colorless liquid with a narcotic odor and an intensely acid taste; it congeals into glassy crystals at a temperature of 8.5° C. (47° F.). The latter property is of importance as showing the purity of the acid. Concentrated acetic acid, like alcohol, dissolves aromatic substances, with which it forms perfumes which differ from those made with alcohol mainly by their peculiar refreshing after-odor which is due to the acetic acid.

Acetic acid can be saturated with various odors and thus furnish fine perfumes; but for so-called toilet vinegars which are used as washes the acetic acid must be properly diluted, since the concentrated acid has pronounced caustic properties, reddens the skin, and may even produce destructive effects on sensitive parts such as the lips.

Aromatic Vinegar (Vinaigre Aromatique)

Glacial acetic acid	2 lb.
Camphor	4¼ oz.
Oil of lavender	¾ oz.
Oil of mace	150 grains.
Oil of rosemary	150 grains.

Instead of the perfumes here given, finer odors may be employed for the production of superior toilet vinegars; thus we find vinaigre ambré, au musc, à la violette, au jasmin, etc., according to the perfume used. As concentrated acetic acid dissolves most aromatic substances the same as alcohol, all alcoholic perfumes may have their counterparts in acetic acid; but the aromatics should never be added in so large amount as to mask the characteristic odor of the acetic acid. A very pleasant vinegar may be produced by combining an alcoholic with an acid perfume, as in the following:

Spiced Vinegar (Vinaigre aux Épices)

1. Macerate:
Leaves of geranium, lavender, peppermint,
rosemary, and sage, of each	1 oz.
In alcohol of 80%	1 lb.
2. Macerate:
Angelica root, calamus root, camphor,
mace, nutmeg, cloves, of each	½ oz.
In glacial acetic acid	2 lb.

for two weeks, mix the liquids, and filter them into a bottle which should not be completely filled. The longer this mixture is allowed to season in the bottle, the finer will be the aroma; for in the course of time the alcohol and acetic acid react on each other and form acetic ether, which likewise possesses a pleasant aromatic odor.

Certain aromatic vinegars, like ammoniacal perfumes, are filled into smelling bottles containing the same porous substances for their absorption, namely, sponge, pumice stone, crystals of potassium sulphate, etc.

Formulas for Toilet Vinegars

Vinaigre a la Rose

Essence of rose (triple)	10½ oz.
White-wine vinegar	1 qt.

This should be colored a pale rose tint with one of the dye-stuffs to be enumerated hereafter. The use of true wine vinegar is to be recommended for this and all the following toilet vinegars, as the œnanthic ether it contains has a favorable effect on the fineness of the odor.

Vinaigre aux Fleurs d’Oranges

Extract of orange flower	7 oz.
White-wine vinegar	1 qt.

This is usually left colorless.

Vinaigre aux Violettes

Extract of cassie	8 oz.
Extract of orange flower	3½ oz.
Tincture of orris root	5½ oz.
Essence of rose (triple)	5½ oz.
White-wine vinegar	1 qt.

Vinaigre de Quatre Voleurs

Leaves of lavender, peppermint, rue, rosemary,
and cinnamon, of each	3¼ oz.
Calamus, mace, nutmeg, of each	150 grains.
Camphor	¾ oz.
Macerated in alcohol	7 oz.
And acetic acid	4¾ lb.

Preventive Vinegar (Vinaigre Hygiénique)

Benzoin	2¼ oz.
Lavender	¾ oz.
Cloves	150 grains.
Marjoram	¾ oz.
Cinnamon	150 grains.
Alcohol	1 qt.
White-wine vinegar	2 qts.

Macerate the solids with the alcohol and vinegar.

Vinaigre de Cologne

Cologne water	1 qt.
Glacial acetic acid	1¾ oz.

As this vinegar is made by mixing an alcoholic perfume with acetic acid, so all other alcoholic perfumes may be employed for a like purpose; but the quantities must be determined by experiment, for the various aromatics differ in the intensity of their odor.

Vinaigre Étheré

Glacial acetic acid	14 oz.
Acetic ether	1½ oz.
Nitrous ether	¾ oz.
Water	5 qts.

The water should be added after the ethers have been dissolved in the glacial acetic acid.

Vinaigre de Lavande

Lavender water	4 qts.
Rose water	1 pint.
Glacial acetic acid	½ lb.

To be stained a bluish color with indigo-carmine.

Orange-Flower Vinegar

Orange-flower water	4 qts.
Glacial acetic acid	7 oz.

Mallard’s Toilet Vinegar

Tincture of benzoin	1½ oz.
Tincture of tolu	1½ oz.
Oil of bergamot	150 grains.
Oil of lemon	150 grains.
Oil of neroli	30 grains.
Oil of orange peel	½ oz.
Oil of lavender	15 grains.
Oil of rosemary	15 grains.
Tincture of musk	15 grains.
Concentrated acetic acid	21 oz.
Alcohol	4¾ lb.

Toilet Vinegar (French Formula)

Oil of bergamot	30 grains.
Oil of lemon	30 grains.
Oil of rose	8 drops.
Oil of neroli	5 drops.
Benzoin	75 grains.
Vanillin	15 grains.
Concentrated acetic acid	½ oz.
Alcohol	½ lb.

Macerate for two weeks, and filter.

Vinaigre Polyanthe

Glacial acetic acid	7 oz.
Tincture of benzoin	1¾ oz.
Tincture of tolu	1¾ oz.
Oil of neroli	150 grains.
Oil of geranium	150 grains.
Water	2 qts.

To be stained with tincture of krameria (rhatany).