Chapter XIV Formulas for Handkerchief Perfumes
Bouquet de l’Alhambra
| Extract of cassie | 1 pint. |
| Extract of orange flower | 1 pint. |
| Essence of geranium | 1 qt. |
| Extract of tuberose | 2 qts. |
| Tincture of civet | 1 pint. |
Extrait d’Ambre, I.
| Tincture of ambergris | 3 qts. |
| Tincture of musk | 1½ pints. |
| Oil of rose | 1 oz. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 13½ fl. oz. |
| Alcohol | 3 pints. |
Extrait d’Ambre, II
| Essence of rose (triple) | 2 qts. |
| Tincture of ambergris | 4 qts |
| Tincture of musk | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 1 pint. |
Bouquet de l’Amour
| Extract of cassie | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of ambergris | 1 pint. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of musk | 1 pint. |
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of violet | 1 qt. |
Baisers du Printemps (Spring Kisses)
| Extract of cassie | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of ambergris | 3 fl. oz. |
| Extract of jasmine | 6 fl. oz. |
| Extract of rose | 5 pints. |
| Extract of violet | 5 pints. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 10 fl. oz. |
| Oil of bergamot | 120 grains. |
| Oil of lemon | 30 grains. |
Note. Here and in all succeeding formulas, “oil of lemon” is meant to be the finest “hand-pressed” oil.
Eau de Berlin
| Oil of anise | 150 grains. |
| Oil of bergamot | 1 oz. |
| Oil of cardamom | 15 grains. |
| Oil of lemon | 30 grains. |
| Oil of coriander | 15 grains. |
| Oil of geranium | 30 grains. |
| Oil of melissa | 15 grains. |
| Oil of neroli | 75 grains. |
| Oil of rose | 30 grains. |
| Oil of santal | 30 grains. |
| Oil of thyme | 15 grains. |
| Alcohol | 10 qts. |
Buckingham Flowers
| Extract of cassie | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of ambergris | 1 pint. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 qt. |
| Extract of orange flower | 1 qt. |
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of orris root | 1 pint. |
| Oil of lavender | 40 grains. |
| Oil of neroli | 40 grains. |
| Oil of rose | 75 grains. |
Bouquet d’Andorre
| Extract of jasmine | 1 pint. |
| Extract of rose | 1 pint. |
| Extract of tuberose | 1 pint. |
| Extract of violet | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of orris root | 1 pint. |
| Oil of geranium | 75 grains. |
Bouquet du Bosphore
| Extract of cassie | 1 qt. |
| Extract of jasmine | ½ pint. |
| Extract of tuberose | ½ pint. |
| Tincture of civet | 18 grains. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | ½ pint. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 30 grains. |
Bouquet des Chasseurs
| Extract of cassie | 20 fl. oz. |
| Tincture of musk | 20 fl. oz. |
| Extract of neroli | 20 fl. oz. |
| Extract of orange flower | 20 fl. oz. |
| Tincture of tonka bean | 40 fl. oz. |
| Tincture of orris root | 20 fl. oz. |
| Oil of lemon | ½ oz. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 5 pints. |
Bouquet de la Cour
| Tincture of ambergris | 2 oz. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of musk | 2 oz. |
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of violet | 1 qt. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1 qt. |
| Oil of bergamot | 45 grains. |
| Oil of lemon. | 45 grains. |
| Oil of neroli | 45 grains. |
Bouquet de Chypre
| Tincture of ambergris | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of musk | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of tonka | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of orris root | 1 qt. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 2 qts. |
Bouquet des Délices
| Tincture of ambergris | 1 pint. |
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of tuberose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of violet | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of orris root | 1 pint. |
| Oil of bergamot | ½ oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 1 oz. |
Bouquet de Fleurs (Nosegay)
| Tincture of benzoin | 5½ oz. |
| Extract of rose | 3 pints. |
| Extract of tuberose | 3 pints. |
| Extract of violet | 3 pints. |
| Oil of bergamot | 2½ oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 1¾ oz. |
| Oil of orange peel | 1¾ oz. |
Convallaria (Lily of the Valley, Fleurs de Mai)
| Extract of cassie | 1½ pints. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1½ pints. |
| Extract of orange flower | 1½ pints. |
| Extract of rose | 1½ pints. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 3 pints. |
| Oil of bitter almond | ⅜ oz. |
While this perfume is very pleasant, its odor has no resemblance to the delicate fragrance of Convallaria majalis, our ordinary lily of the valley.
Couronne de Fleurs (Garland of Flowers)
| Extract of cassie | 20 fl. oz. |
| Tincture of ambergris | 13½ fl. oz. |
| Extract of jasmine | 20 fl. oz. |
| Tincture of musk | 13½ fl. oz. |
| Tincture of orris root | 5 pints. |
| Oil of bergamot | 1½ oz. |
| Oil of lavender | 1½ oz. |
| Oil of clove | 75 grains. |
| Oil of neroli | 1½ oz. |
| Oil of rose | 1½ oz. |
| Alcohol | 5 pints. |
Court Bouquet
| Oil of bergamot | ⅜ oz. |
| Oil of neroli | 24 grains. |
| Alcohol | 5½ oz. |
| Orris root | 1 oz. |
| Storax, liquid | 8 grains. |
| Musk | 3 grains. |
Macerate for two weeks, and filter.
Esterhazy Bouquets
An old renowned perfume, a former rival of Cologne water; the name is derived from a noble Hungarian family.
A. Bouquet d’Esterhazy (French Formula)
| Tincture of ambergris | ½ pint. |
| Extract of neroli | 1 qt. |
| Extract of orange flower | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of tonka | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of vetiver | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of orris root | 1 qt. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1 qt. |
| Oil of clove | 75 grains. |
| Oil of santal | 75 grains. |
B. Bouquet Esterhazy (German Formula)
| Calamus root | 3 oz. |
| Cloves | 3 oz. |
| Nutmeg | 3 oz. |
| Alcohol | 4 qts. |
Macerate for two weeks and filter; in the filtrate dissolve:
| Tincture of ambergris | 6 oz. |
| Ammonia | 30 grains. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 30 grains. |
| Oil of lemon | 3 oz. |
| Tincture of musk | 6 oz. |
| Oil of neroli | 60 grains. |
| Oil of orange peel | 30 grains. |
| Oil of rose | 75 grains. |
Cèdre du Libanon (Cedar)
| Oil of cedar wood | 10½ oz. |
| Extract of rose | 1 pint. |
| Alcohol | 5 qts. |
Fiori d’Italia
| Extract of cassie | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of ambergris | 5 oz. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of musk | 5 oz. |
| Extract of rose | 2 qts. |
| Extract of violet | 1 qt. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1 qt. |
Lilac (Extrait de Lilas)
| Oil of bitter almond | 15 grains. |
| Extract of orange flower | 2 qts. |
| Extract of tuberose | 3 qts. |
| Tincture of civet | 2 to 3½ oz. |
The above-named ingredients are exceedingly volatile; according to the desired permanence of the perfume, more or less of the extract of civet is added.
Essence des Bouquets, A (Ess. Bouquet)
| Tincture of ambergris | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of orris root | 2 qts. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 2 qts. |
| Oil of bergamot | 4½ oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 1 oz. |
Ess. Bouquet, B.
| Extract of cassie | 1 oz. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 oz. |
| Tincture of musk | 1½ oz. |
| Oil of cassia | 1½ oz. |
| Oil of lemon | ½ oz. |
| Oil of lavender | 1 oz. |
| Oil of neroli | ½ oz. |
| Oil of clove | 1½ oz. |
| Oil of palmarosa | 1 oz. |
| Oil of petit grain | 1 oz. |
| Oil of Portugal | 1 oz. |
| Oil of rose | 75 grains. |
| Oil of thyme | 75 grains. |
| Alcohol | 10 qts. |
This perfume is much admired in England. The title Ess. Bouquet is an abbreviation of the full name given above.
Ess. Bouquet, C.
| Tincture of ambergris | 2 oz. |
| Tincture of orris | 8 oz. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1 pint. |
| Oil of lemon | ¼ oz. |
| Oil of bergamot | 1 oz. |
Florida
| Oil of bergamot | 60 grains. |
| Oil of lemon | 90 grains. |
| Oil of lavender | 15 grains. |
| Oil of clove | 8 grains. |
| Alcohol | 5 qts. |
Bouquet de Flore
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of orange flower | 1 pint. |
| Extract of tuberose | 1 pint. |
| Extract of violet | ½ pint. |
| Tincture of benzoin | 3 fl. oz. |
| Tincture of storax | 3 fl. oz. |
| Tincture of musk | 1½ fl. oz. |
| Oil of citronella | ¾ oz. |
| Alcohol | 2 qts. |
Honeysuckle (Extrait de Chèvre-feuille).
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of tuberose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of violet | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of tolu | ½ pint. |
| Tincture of vanilla | ½ pint. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 15 grains. |
| Oil of neroli | 8 grains. |
Heliotrope, A (Extrait de Héliotrope)
| Extract of rose | 2 qts. |
| Extract of orange flower | 14 oz. |
| Tincture of ambergris | 7 oz. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 4 qts. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 75 grains. |
A very lasting perfume which is especially suitable for scenting the linen in a press.
Heliotrope, B.
| Vanilla | 15 grains. |
| Oil of neroli | 2 drops. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 1 drop. |
| Musk | 1½ grains. |
| Benzoin | 45 grains. |
| Cologne spirit | 3½ oz. |
Macerate for one week, and filter.
New-Mown Hay
Hay owes its fragrance partly to cumarin, which is present in many plants, but in especially large amount in tonka beans. Hence all similar perfumes must contain tincture of tonka. Other aromatic substances, however, contribute to the odor of hay, but the cumarin gives, as it were, the keynote to its real odor.
A very pleasant perfume is made after the following formula:
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1 qt. |
| Essence of geranium | 1 qt. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 qt. |
| Extract of orange flower | 1 qt. |
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of tonka | 2 qts. |
Some add to this perfume 1 pint of extract of cassie which imparts a greenish color to it.
Royal Horse-Guard’s Bouquet
| Extract of orange flower | 20 fl. oz. |
| Tincture of musk | 10 fl. oz. |
| Extract of rose | 5 pints. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 20 fl. oz. |
| Tincture of orris root | 20 fl. oz. |
| Oil of clove | 120 grains. |
Bouquet d’Irlande
| Extract of white rose | 5 qts. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 1 lb. |
An exceedingly fine perfume.
Hovenia
This plant, Hovenia dulcis, indigenous to Japan, has a peculiar odor, which, however, is not pleasant to European taste. The perfume sold under this name has a special odor, though it differs from that of the plant. It is made according to the following formula:
| Oil of lemon | 3 oz. |
| Oil of clove | ¼ oz. |
| Oil of neroli | 75 grains. |
| Oil of rose | 75 grains. |
| Alcohol | 5 qts. |
Huntsman’s Nosegay
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1 pint. |
| Extract of cassie | 6 fl. oz. |
| Extract of orange flower | 6 fl. oz. |
| Tincture of musk | 150 grains. |
| Tincture of tonka | 1 pint. |
| Oil of citronella | 150 grains. |
| Alcohol | 3 qts. |
Bouquet du Japon
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of orange flower | 1 qt. |
| Essence of patchouly | ½ pint. |
| Extract of verbena | 1 pint. |
| Essence of vetiver | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of civet | 3 fl. oz. |
| Tincture of musk. | ⅓ fl. oz. |
Eau Japonaise
| Tincture of cedar wood | 1 qt. |
| Essence of patchouly | 1 qt. |
| Extract of santal | 1 qt. |
| Extract of verbena | 1 qt. |
| Essence of vetiver | 1 pint. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1 qt. |
Jockey Club
England first introduced a perfume under this name, which soon became popular and was largely imitated. Jockey Club perfume is among the finest known to the trade; the delicacy of its odor rests largely on the extracts of cassie and tuberose which are employed in their strongest form—an alcoholic extract of a pomade well charged with the odors of the plants. As in the case of Cologne water, there are a number of widely diverging formulas for its preparation, from which we select a few which furnish excellent perfumes.
Jockey Club, A (English Formula)
| Extract of cassie | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of ambergris | ¾ pint. |
| Extract of rose | 1½ pints. |
| Extract of tuberose | ¾ pint. |
| Tincture of orris root | 3 pints. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1½ pints. |
| Oil of bergamot | ¾ oz. |
Jockey Club, B (French Formula)
| Extract of cassie | 1½ pints. |
| Extract of jasmine | 2¼ pints. |
| Extract of rose | 3 pints. |
| Extract of tuberose | 3 pints. |
| Tincture of civet | ½ pint. |
Jockey Club, C (German Formula)
| Extract of cassie | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of ambergris | 13½ fl. oz. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 qt. |
| Extract of rose | 1 pint. |
| Extract of tuberose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of violet | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of civet | 20 fl. oz. |
| Oil of bergamot | ¾ oz. |
| Oil of citronella | ½ oz. |
| Oil of neroli | ½ oz. |
Jonquille (Extrait de Jonquille)
| Extract of jasmine | 2 qts. |
| Extract of orange flower | 1 qt. |
| Extract of tuberose | 2 qts. |
| Tincture of vanilla | ½ pint. |
Kiss Me Quick
| Extract of cassie | 1 qt. |
| Extract of ambergris | ½ pint. |
| Extract of narcissus (Jonquille) | 2 qts. |
| Tincture of tonka | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of orris root | 2 qts. |
| Tincture of civet | ½ pint. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1 qt. |
| Oil of citronella | 75 grains. |
| Oil of lemon grass | 45 grains. |
This perfume, which was once very popular, owes its peculiar refreshing odor to the tincture of tonka beans; by increasing this ingredient the specific odor can be made more pronounced.
Bouquet Cosmopolite
| Extract of jasmine | 1 pint. |
| Essence of lavender | ½ pint. |
| Tincture of musk | ½ pint. |
| Essence of patachouly | ½ pint. |
| Extract of santal | ½ pint. |
| Extract of tuberose | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of vanilla | ½ pint. |
| Extract of violet | 1 qt. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1 pint. |
| Oil of citronella | 75 grains. |
| Oil of lemon | ½ oz. |
Cologne Water (Eau de Cologne)
This famous perfume, which was first made in Cologne on the Rhine, its formula being kept secret, can be produced anywhere of the same quality as the original. In order to obtain a first-class product, it is necessary, besides using the finest oils—a matter of course for all fine perfumes—to observe another special point. Every Cologne water contains oils of the citron group which develop their best odors only in true spirit of wine. Unless an alcohol distilled from wine is used, it will be impossible to make a Cologne water of really first quality. While it is possible to make a good cologne with grain or potato spirit, especially if highly rectified, comparison with one prepared from pure spirit of wine will at once show a marked difference. The small amount of œnanthic ether, hardly demonstrable by chemical tests but present in every spirit of wine, exerts a decided influence on the flavor.
Cologne water of the most superior and incomparable quality is made by dissolving the essential oils, excepting the oils of rosemary and neroli, in the alcohol and distilling it, the other oils being added to the distillate.
A very large number of formulas for the preparation of Cologne water have been published of which we subjoin a few. We have purposely omitted those containing many essential oils, as experience has taught us that they are of little value; for it is not the number of oils that determines the fineness of a perfume, but the manner in which certain odors are combined.
A. Finest Cologne Water (Eau de Cologne Supérieure)
| Oil of bergamot | 2½ oz. |
| Oil of lemon (hand-pressed) | 6 oz. |
| Oil of neroli pétale | 3½ oz. |
| Oil of neroli bigarade | 1¼ oz. |
| Oil of rosemary | 2½ oz. |
| Alcohol | 30 qts. |
B. Cologne Water (Second Quality)
| Oil of bergamot | 4½ oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 4½ oz. |
| Oil of neroli pétale | ¾ oz. |
| Oil of orange peel | 4½ oz. |
| Oil of petit grain | 2½ oz. |
| Oil of rosemary | 2½ oz. |
| Alcohol | 30 qts. |
C. Cologne Water (Ordinary)
| Oil of bergamot | 7 oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 3½ oz. |
| Oil of lavender | 3½ oz. |
| Alcohol | 30 qts. |
D. Cologne Water
| Oil of bergamot | 1¾ oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 3½ oz. |
| Oil of lavender | 150 grains. |
| Oil of neroli | ½ oz. |
| Oil of rosemary | 75 grains. |
| Alcohol | 30 qts. |
E. Cologne Water
| Oil of bergamot | 2 oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 1 oz. |
| Oil of lavender | ½ oz. |
| Oil of melissa | ¼ oz. |
| Oil of neroli | ¼ oz. |
| Alcohol | 30 qts. |
F. Cologne Water
| Oil of bergamot | 3½ oz. |
| Oil of lemon | ½ oz. |
| Oil of lavender | ¼ oz. |
| Oil of melissa | ½ oz. |
| Oil of neroli | ¼ oz. |
| Alcohol | 30 qts. |
G. Cologne Water
| Oil of bergamot | 1 lb. |
| Oil of lemon | 1 lb. |
| Oil of lavender | 6½ oz. |
| Oil of neroli | ¾ oz. |
| Oil of petit grain | 1½ oz. |
| Oil of orange peel | 1 lb. |
| Oil of rosemary | 150 grains. |
| Alcohol | 30 qts. |
H. Cologne Water
| Oil of bergamot | 2¼ oz. |
| Oil of cajuput | ½ oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 4½ oz. |
| Oil of lavender | 6½ oz. |
| Oil of neroli | 2¼oz. |
| Oil of orange peel | 4½ oz. |
| Oil of petit grain | ½ oz. |
| Orange-flower water | 1 qt. |
| Alcohol | 30 qts. |
The numerous formulas show that oils of lemon, bergamot, and orange form normal constituents of every Cologne water; the finer grades always contain, in addition, oils of rosemary and neroli. It is advisable to dissolve the aromatics in very strong alcohol and then to effect the dilution required with orange-flower or rose water. This dilution is also to be employed when a cheaper product is desired.
Lavender Perfumes
English (Mitcham) oil of lavender should always be used when it is desired to produce perfumes of first quality.
Eau de Lavande Ambrée
| Oil of bergamot | 1 oz. |
| Oil of lemon | ½ oz. |
| Oil of geranium | 75 grains. |
| Oil of lavender | 5½ oz. |
| Musk | 8 grains. |
| Peru balsam | 2 oz. |
| Storax | 4¼ oz. |
| Civet | 15 grains. |
| Alcohol | 10 qts. |
The essential oils are dissolved in the alcohol, the other substances are macerated in the solution for one month, and the liquid decanted.
Eau de Lavande Double
| Tincture of musk | 3 fl. oz. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 3 fl. oz. |
| Tincture of civet | 3 fl. oz. |
| Oil of bergamot | 1¼ oz. |
| Oil of lemon | ¾ oz. |
| Oil of lavender | 3½ oz. |
| Rose water (triple) | 1 qt. |
| Alcohol | 10 qts. |
Eau de Lavande a Mille Fleurs
| Tincture of ambergris | ½ pint. |
| Essence of lavender | 2 qts. |
| Eau de mille fleurs (see below, page 186) | 2 qts. |
Leap-year Bouquet
| Extract of jasmine | 3 pints. |
| Essence of patchouly | 1½ pints. |
| Essence of santal | 1½ pints. |
| Extract of tuberose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of verbena | 6½ fl. oz. |
| Essence of vetiver | 1½ pints. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1½ pints. |
Eau de Leipsic
| Oil of lemon | ¾ oz. |
| Oil of neroli | ¾ oz. |
| Oil of orange peel | 150 grains. |
| Oil of bergamot | 2¼ oz. |
| Oil of rosemary | 75 grains. |
| Orange-flower water | 1 qt. |
| Alcohol | 9 pints. |
Wallflower (Extrait de Giroflé)
| Extract of cassie | 1 pint. |
| Extract of orange flower | 1 qt. |
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of orris root | 1 pint. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 8 grains. |
Lily (Extrait de Lys)
| Extract of cassie | 3 pints. |
| Extract of jasmine | 13½ fl. oz. |
| Extract of orange flower | 27 fl. oz. |
| Extract of rose | 1 pint. |
| Extract of tuberose | 3 qts. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 40 fl. oz. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 30 grains. |
Eau de Lisbonne
| Oil of lemon | 2¼ oz. |
| Oil of orange peel | 4½ oz. |
| Oil of rose | ¼ oz. |
| Alcohol | 5 qts. |
Magnolia (Extrait de Magnolia)
| Extract of orange flower | 2 qts. |
| Extract of rose | 4 qts. |
| Extract of tuberose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of violet | 1 qt. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 40 grains. |
| Oil of lemon | 15 grains. |
Lily of the Valley
| Oil of bitter almond | 150 grains. |
| Extract of jasmine | 7 oz. |
| Extract of neroli | 7 oz. |
| Extract of cassie | 14 oz. |
| Extract of tuberose | 28 oz. |
| Alcohol | 28 oz. |
Lily of the Valley Extract
| Extract of jasmine | 3½ oz. |
| Extract of ylang-ylang (see below, p. 198) | ½ oz. |
| Cardamom seed, crushed | 75 grains. |
| Oil of orris | 10 drops. |
Macerate for a week, and filter.
The amount of cardamom seed is to be weighed exactly; should its odor still be too pronounced, extract of jasmine should be gradually added until the right aroma is obtained.
Bouquet a la Maréchale
| Tincture of ambergris | ½ pint. |
| Tincture of musk | ½ pint. |
| Extract of neroli | 1 pint. |
| Extract of orange flower | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of tonka | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of orris root | 1 pint. |
| Essence of vetiver | 1 pint. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1 qt. |
| Oil of clove | 75 grains. |
| Oil of santal | 75 grains. |
A la Mode
| Extract of cassie | 1 qt. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 qt. |
| Extract of orange flower | 1 qt. |
| Extract of tuberose | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of civet | 1 pint. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 75 grains. |
| Oil of nutmeg | 60 grains. |
A. Eau de Mille Fleurs
| Extract of cassie | 1 pint. |
| Essence of cedar | 1 pint. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of musk | 6 fl. oz. |
| Extract of neroli | 1 pint. |
| Extract of patchouly | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 1 pint. |
| Extract of violet | 1 pint. |
| Essence of vetiver | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of civet | 6 fl. oz. |
| Oil of lemon | ½ oz. |
| Oil of geranium | ¾ oz. |
| Oil of lavender | ¾ oz. |
| Oil of orange peel | ½ oz. |
B. Eau de Mille Fleurs
| Extract of cassie | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of ambergris | ½ pint. |
| Essence of cedar | ½ pint. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of musk | ½ pint. |
| Extract of orange flower | 1 pint. |
| Extract of rose | 1 pint. |
| Extract of tuberose | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of vanilla | ½ pint. |
| Extract of violet | 1 pint. |
| Essence of rose (simple) | 1 qt. |
| Oil of bergamot | 1¼ oz. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 24 grains. |
| Oil of clove | 24 grains. |
| Oil of neroli | 24 grains. |
C. Eau de Mille Fleurs a Palmarose
| Extract of cassie | 6 fl. oz. |
| Essence of cedar | 3 fl. oz. |
| Tincture of musk | 3 fl. oz. |
| Extract of violet | 6 fl. oz. |
| Oil of bergamot | 1½ oz. |
| Oil of cedar | 1¾ oz. |
| Oil of lemon | ¼ oz. |
| Oil of lavender | ¼ oz. |
| Oil of clove | ¼ oz. |
| Oil of palmarosa | ½ oz. |
| Alcohol | 9 pints. |
Fleurs de Montpellier
| Tincture of ambergris | 10 fl. oz. |
| Tincture of musk | 10 fl. oz. |
| Extract of rose | 3 pints. |
| Extract of tuberose | 3 pints. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 3 pints. |
| Oil of bergamot | 1¾ oz. |
| Oil of clove | ¼ oz. |
Fleurs des Champs
| Extract of cassie | 3½ oz. |
| Extract of jasmine | 3½ oz. |
| Tincture of musk | 3½ oz. |
| Tincture of tonka | 3 pints. |
| Tincture of orris root | 7 oz. |
| Oil of geranium | 1½ oz. |
| Oil of neroli | 1½ oz. |
| Oil of rose | ⅞ oz. |
| Alcohol | 3 qts. |
Huile de Mille Fleurs
(For perfuming hair oils and pomades.)
| Oil of cinnamon | 10 drops. |
| Oil of neroli | 20 drops. |
| Oil of rose | 20 drops. |
| Oil of clove | — |
| Oil of orange peel | 15 grains. |
| Oil of calamus | 20 drops. |
| Oil of geranium | 150 grains. |
| Oil of lemon | ½ oz. |
| Oil of bergamot | 2½ oz. |
| Oil of verbena | 75 grains. |
Musk (Extrait de Musc)
| Tincture of ambergris | 3 pints. |
| Tincture of musk | 3 qts. |
| Extract of rose | 1½ pints. |
Mousseline
| Extract of cassie | 1 qt. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 qt. |
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of tuberose | 1 qt. |
| Bouquet à la maréchale | 2 qts. |
| Oil of santal | ¾ oz. |
Myrtle (Extrait de Myrthe)
| Extract of jasmine | ½ pint. |
| Extract of orange flower | 1 qt. |
| Extract of rose | 2 qts. |
| Extract of tuberose | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 1 qt. |
Narcissus (Extrait de Narcisse)
| Extract of jonquille | 2 qts. |
| Extract of tuberose | 3 qts. |
| Tincture of storax | ½ pint. |
| Tincture of tolu | ½ pint. |
Navy’s Nosegay
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of orange flower | 1 qt. |
| Essence of patchouly | 3 fl. oz. |
| Extract of verbena | 6 fl. oz. |
| Essence of vetiver | 6 fl. oz. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 150 grains. |
| Oil of citronella | ¾ oz. |
| Oil of nutmeg | 75 grains. |
New-Mown Hay
| Tonka beans, in pieces | 75 grains. |
| Orris root | 150 grains. |
| Vanillin | 8 grains. |
| Oil of bergamot | 30 drops. |
| Oil of neroli | 2 drops. |
| Oil of rose | 2 drops. |
| Oil of lavender | 2 drops. |
| Oil of clove | 1 drop. |
| Patchouly herb | 3 grains |
| Benzoic acid | 8 grains. |
| Nettle herb | 30 grains. |
| Alcohol | 7½ oz. |
Digest for two weeks, and filter.
Pink (Extrait d’Œillet)
| Extract of cassie | 2½ pints. |
| Extract of orange flower | 2½ pints. |
| Extract of rose | 5 pints. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 20 fl. oz. |
| Oil of clove | 75 grains. |
Essence of Sweet Pea
| Extract of tuberose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of orange flower | 1 qt. |
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 5½ oz. |
Polyanthus
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 pint. |
| Extract of violet | ½ pint. |
| Tincture of musk | 2½ fl. drachms. |
| Oil of neroli | ¾ oz. |
| Oil of lemon | ¾ oz. |
| Alcohol | 2 qts. |
Eau du Portugal
| Oil of bergamot | 1 oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 2¼ oz. |
| Oil of orange peel | ½ lb. |
| Oil of rose | ¼ oz. |
| Alcohol | 5 qts. |
Queen Victoria’s Perfume
| Extract of cassie | 10 fl. oz. |
| Extract of rose | 5 pints. |
| Extract of orange flower | 20 fl. oz. |
| Extract of tuberose | 2½ pints. |
| Extract of violet | 5 pints. |
| Tincture of civet | 3 fl. oz. |
| Oil of bergamot | ¾ oz. |
| Oil of citron | 150 grains. |
Patchouly (Extrait de Patchouli)
| Oil of patchouly | 1½ oz. |
| Oil of rose | 150 grains. |
| Alcohol | 5 qts. |
Essence of Reseda
(Artificial, almost indistinguishable from the genuine.)
| Tonka beans, in pieces | 30 grains. |
| Storax, liquid | 15 grains. |
| Orris root | 1¾ oz. |
| Oil of neroli | 10 drops. |
| Oil of rose | 10 drops. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 2 drops. |
| Oil of bergamot | 20 drops. |
| Ambergris | 15 grains. |
| Musk | 8 grains. |
| Nettle herb | 30 grains. |
| Alcohol | ½ lb. |
Macerate for from one to two weeks, and filter.
Rondeletia Odoratissima
| Tincture of ambergris | 4¼ oz. |
| Tincture of musk | 4¼ oz. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 4¼ oz. |
| Oil of bergamot | 1 oz. |
| Oil of lavender | 2¼ oz. |
| Oil of clove | 1¼ oz. |
| Oil of rose | 75 grains. |
| Alcohol | 4 qts. |
The odor of Rondeletia has not thus far been isolated, at least in Europe (the plant is indigenous to the Antilles). The oils of lavender and clove together constitute the odor known in perfumery as Rondeletia. By increasing the quantity of the two oils, the strength of the perfume may be heightened.
Royal Nosegay
| Tincture of ambergris | 2½ oz. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of musk | 3 fl. oz. |
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of vanilla | ½ pint. |
| Extract of violet | 1 qt. |
| Essence of vetiver | ½ pint. |
| Oil of bergamot | 75 grains. |
| Oil of clove | 1¾ oz. |
Rose Odors
The art of perfumery has endeavored to fix this most magnificent of all odors, and we must confess that in this case it has succeeded in solving the problem in a manner unequalled in any other perfume. We are able to imitate not only the pure rose odor, but also those of its several varieties such as the tea rose, moss rose, etc., both as to character and intensity. Fine rose odors can be produced in their full fragrance only from pomade extracts; the various rose oils furnish inferior products.
Rosa Centifolia, A (Finest Quality)
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1 qt. |
| Rose pomade | 8 lbs. |
| Alcohol | 5 qts. |
Rose, B (Less Fine)
| Oil of rose | 3½ oz. |
| Alcohol | 5 qts. |
China Rose (Roses Jaunes)
| Essence of rose (triple) | 2 qts. |
| Tincture of tonka | ½ pint. |
| Extract of tuberose | 2 qts. |
| Extract of verbena | ½ pint. |
Dog Rose (Eglantine)
| Extract of cassie | 2½ pints. |
| Extract of orange flower | 2½ pints. |
| Extract of rose | 5 pints. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 2½ pints. |
| Oil of lemon-grass | ¼ oz. |
| Oil of neroli | ¼ oz. |
Moss Rose (Rose Mousseuse)
| Extract of rose | 2 qts. |
| Extract of orange flower | 1 qt. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of ambergris | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of musk | ½ lb. |
Tea Rose (Rose Théa)
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of geranium | 1 qt. |
| Extract of orange flower | ½ pint. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1 qt. |
| Extract of santal | ½ pint. |
| Tincture of orris root | ½ pint. |
White Rose (Roses Blanches)
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 pint. |
| Extract of violet | 1 qt. |
| Essence of patchouly | ½ pint. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1 qt. |
White Rose
| Oil of rose | 15 drops. |
| Patchouly herb | 3 grains. |
| Musk | 3 grains. |
| Cologne spirit | 7 oz. |
Twin Rose (Roses Jumelles)
| Extract of rose | 5 qts. |
| Oil of rose | 1¾ oz. |
Spring Nosegay
| Extract of cassie | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of ambergris | 13½ fl. oz. |
| Essence of geranium | 1 qt. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 qt. |
| Extract of orange flower | 2 qts. |
| Tincture of musk | 10 fl. oz. |
Suave
| Extract of cassie | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of ambergris | ¼ pint. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of musk | ¼ pint. |
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of tuberose | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of vanilla | ¾ pint. |
| Oil of bergamot | ½ oz. |
| Oil of clove | 30 grains. |
| Oil of mace | 30 grains. |
Heliotrope Bouquet (Fleurs Solsticiales)
| Extract of cassie | 13½ fl. oz. |
| Tincture of ambergris | 5 fl. oz. |
| Extract of jasmine | 2½ pints. |
| Tincture of musk | 5 fl. oz. |
| Extract of rose | 5 pints. |
| Extract of violet | 2½ pints. |
| Extract of verbena | 13½ fl. oz. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 2½ pints. |
| Oil of bergamot | 1½ oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 1½ oz. |
Bouquet de Stamboul
| Extract of rose | 2½ pints. |
| Extract of cassie | 1 qt. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 qt. |
| Extract of tuberose | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of civet | ½ pint. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 150 grains. |
Syringa
| Extract of reseda | 1¾ oz. |
| Extract of violet | 3½ oz. |
| Patchouly herb | 5 grains. |
| Benzoic acid | 8 grains. |
| Oil of orris | 10 drops. |
| Alcohol | 1¾ oz. |
Tulipe Odoriférante
| Extract of cassie | 6 fl. oz. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 qt. |
| Extract of rose | 1 pint. |
| Extract of tuberose | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of orris root | 1 qt. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 15 grains. |
| Oil of neroli | 30 grains. |
Hungarian Water (Eau Hongroise)
| Extract of orange flower | 1 pint. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1 pint. |
| Oil of lemon | 1 oz. |
| Oil of melissa | 1 oz. |
| Oil of peppermint | 30 grains. |
| Oil of rosemary | 2 oz. |
| Alcohol (from wine) | 5 qts. |
Bouquet de Virginie
| Essence of geranium | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of musk | 1 qt. |
| Extract of orange flower | 1 qt. |
| Extract of santal | 1 pint. |
| Tincture of tonka | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 1 qt. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1 pint. |
Violet (Violettes)
| Violet pomade | 6 to 7 lb. |
| Extract of cassie | 6 fl. oz. |
| Alcohol | 5 qts. |
This is the finest among the true violet perfumes. Less fine, though still of prime quality, is the following:
| Extract of cassie | 2 qts. |
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of tuberose | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of orris root | 1 qt. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 15 grains. |
Verbena A (Extrait de Verveine)
| Oil of lemon grass | ½ oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 14 oz. |
| Oil of orange peel | 3½ oz. |
| Alcohol | 5 qts. |
A cheap and pleasant perfume: the following is far superior.
Verbena B.
| Oil of lemon | 10½ oz. |
| Oil of lemon grass | 6 oz. |
| Oil of orange peel | 5 oz. |
| Extract of orange flower | 2 lb. |
| Extract of rose | 3 lb. |
| Extract of tuberose | 2 lb. |
| Alcohol | 5 qts. |
This “Extract of Verbena B” is a modification of that given previously, on page 164.
Extrait de Verveine C.
| Extract of orange flower | 30 fl. oz. |
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of tuberose | 30 fl. oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 1 oz. |
| Oil of lemon grass | ¾ oz. |
| Oil of orange peel | ¼ lb. |
| Alcohol | 4½ pints. |
Violettes des Montagnes
| Extract of cassie | 13½ fl. oz. |
| Extract of jasmine | 13½ fl. oz. |
| Extract of rose | 13½ fl. oz. |
| Extract of violet | 2 qts. |
| Tincture of orris root | 13½ fl. oz. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 30 grains. |
Volcameria
| Extract of jasmine | 1 pint. |
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of tuberose | 2 qts. |
| Extract of violet | 2 qts. |
| Tincture of musk | ½ pint. |
Forest Breeze (Pine-Needle Odor.)
| Oil of turpentine | 14 oz. |
| Oil of lavender | 1½ oz. |
| Oil of lemon grass | ¾ oz. |
| Alcohol | 5 qts. |
The oil of turpentine must be clear like water, and most carefully rectified. If it can be obtained of good quality, the oil distilled from the leaves or needles of Pinus sylvestris, commonly known as pine-needle oil or fir-wool oil, is to be preferred for this purpose. Still better is the oil obtained from Pinus Pumilio.
West End
| Extract of cassie | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of ambergris | ½ pint. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of musk | ½ pint. |
| Extract of tuberose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of violet | 1 qt. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 3 pints. |
| Oil of bergamot | 1 oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 75 grains. |
Wintergreen
| Extract of cassie | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of ambergris | 1 pint. |
| Extract of lavender | 1 pint. |
| Extract of orange flower | 1 qt. |
| Extract of rose | 2 qts. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 1 pint. |
| Essence of vetiver | 1 pint. |
Flowers of the Isle of Wight
| Extract of rose | 1 qt. |
| Extract of santal | 2 qts. |
| Tincture of orris root | 1 qt. |
| Essence of vetiver | 1 pint. |
Yacht Club
| Extract of cassie | 6 fl. oz. |
| Extract of jasmine | 1 qt. |
| Extract of orange flower | 2 qts. |
| Extract of santal | 2 qts. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 1 pint. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1 qt. |
| Benzoic acid, sublimed | 1½ oz. |
The characteristic odor of this perfume depends upon the volatile oil adhering to the sublimed benzoic acid; for this reason no other benzoic acid should be used than that obtained by sublimation.
Ylang-Ylang
| Cologne water | 4 qts. |
| Essence of rose (triple) | 1 qt. |
| Tincture of vanilla | 3½ oz. |
| Tincture of tolu | 14 oz. |
| Oil of neroli | 75 grains. |
| Oil of ylang-ylang | ¾ oz. |
Appendix
The great majority of the above-described perfumes are made with extracts prepared from pomades; hence their cost of production is considerable and the selling-price high. For the requirements of the middle classes, quite fragrant perfumes are manufactured by dissolving the cheaper essential oils in ordinary alcohol, and various new odors can be obtained by mixing several of them. The extracts made with cheap oils are well suited to this purpose. The oils most frequently used for such articles are those of bergamot, lemon, orange peel, lavender flowers (French), lemon grass, nutmeg, clove, and santal. The alcohol must be free from fusel oil and have a strength of at least 70% Tralles.
Oils with not very intense odor are generally used in the proportion of about 2 to 2½ ounces to the quart of alcohol; half that quantity will suffice for strong-scented oils such as those of lemon-grass, clove, and nutmeg.
From these simple solutions an experienced manufacturer can produce very nice perfumes by mixing them in due proportions; they are comparatively cheap, and sometimes they yield relatively more profit than the finest articles, whose contents and containers generally represent a considerable outlay on the part of the manufacturer.