Chapter XXIII Formulas for the Manufacture of Pomades and Hair Oils
A. Pomades
In manufacturing perfumery two groups of pomades are distinguished—those with a hard base, and those with a soft base. By base is meant the fat which is the vehicle of the odor in every pomade. The consistence of the substance depends upon its melting-point; lard and beef marrow, having a low melting-point, furnish soft pomades; while beef and mutton tallow, which often receive an addition of paraffin, wax, or spermaceti in order to make them firmer, have a higher melting-point and serve for hard pomades.
French perfumers put on the market some very fine pomades consisting of the fat which has served for the absorption of odors by maceration, enfleurage, etc., and which has been treated with alcohol for the extraction of the odors (so-called washed pomades). No matter how long such a fat is treated with alcohol, it tenaciously retains a portion of the odor to which the great fragrance of these pomades is due and which has given them their reputation.
If the pomades resulting from the following formulas should turn out too soft—a fact depending on the climate of the place of manufacture—they may receive an addition of a mixture of equal parts of paraffin, wax, and spermaceti, in portions of respectively five per cent at each addition, until the desired ointment-like consistence is attained.
Cantharidal Pomade
| Beef marrow | 4 lb. |
| Wax | 7 oz. |
| Oil of mace | 150 grains. |
| Oil of clove | 150 grains. |
| Oil of rose | 150 grains. |
| Tincture of cantharides | ¾ oz. |
Tincture of cantharides is prepared by prolonged maceration of ¾ ounce of powdered cantharides in one quart of alcohol.
Circassian Pomade
| Benzoin pomade (see below) | 2 lb. |
| Rose pomade | 1 lb. |
| Lard | 2 lb. |
| Expressed oil of almond | 4 lb. |
| Alkanet root | 3½ oz. |
| Oil of rose | ½ oz. |
The almond oil alone is first macerated with the alkanet root until, when added to the other ingredients, it imparts a beautiful red color to the pomade.
Benzoin Pomade A.
| Benzoic acid, sublimed | 4¼ oz. |
| Purified fat | 4 lb. |
Benzoin Pomade B.
Macerate the benzoin or benzoic acid in the fat at the temperature of boiling water for several hours, and strain the pomade through a cloth.
Double Pomades
These pomades are put on the market in excellent quality especially by French manufacturers. They consist of a mixture of washed pomades and huiles antiques. The respective quantities must be chosen according to the climate of the country for which the articles are intended. Colder countries require equal parts by weight of pomades and oils; warmer climates, two parts of fat to one of oil.
Crystallized Oil (Huile Crystallisée)
| Huile antique of orange flowers | 1 lb. |
| Huile antique of roses | 2 lb. |
| Huile antique of tuberoses | 2 lb. |
| Huile antique of violets | 2 lb. |
| Spermaceti | 1 lb. |
| Paraffin | 7 oz. |
The addition of spermaceti and paraffin causes the mixture to assume a crystalline form on cooling, the appearance improving in proportion as the cooling is slow and gradual. First melt the paraffin and spermaceti on a water bath, add the huiles antiques, mix thoroughly by prolonged stirring, and pour the finished product into the vessels in which it is to be sold. These vessels are previously warmed to 60 or 70° C. (140-158°F.), and very slowly after filling, so as to secure a beautiful crystalline mass. A second quality of crystalline hair oil is made according to the following formula:
| Expressed oil of almond | 10 lb. |
| Spermaceti | 21 oz. |
| Paraffin | 14 oz. |
| Oil of bergamot | 2 oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 4¼ oz. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 150 grains. |
Blossom Pomade (Pomade à Fleurs)
| Expressed oil of almond | 4 lb. |
| Jasmine pomade | 28 oz. |
| Rose pomade | 28 oz. |
| Violet pomade | 28 oz. |
| Oil of bergamot | ½ oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 150 grains. |
Bear’s Grease Pomade (Pomade à Graisse d’Ours)
| Expressed oil of almond | 20 lb. |
| Lard | 24 lb. |
| Cassie pomade | 4 lb. |
| Jasmine pomade | 4 lb. |
| Huile antique of cassie | 1 lb. |
| Huile antique of jasmine | 1 lb. |
| Huile antique of orange flowers | 1 lb. |
| Huile antique of roses | 1 lb. |
| Huile antique of tuberoses | 1 lb. |
| Oil of bergamot | ½ lb. |
| Oil of lemon | 3½ oz. |
| Oil of nutmeg | 1½ oz. |
| Oil of clove | 4¼ oz. |
This pomade is rather consistent; if it is to be made still firmer for summer use or warm climates, the almond oil should be diminished and the lard increased in proportion, or some tallow and wax added. The pomade is made by mixing the oil and lard, adding next the pomades and huiles antiques, and finally the essential oils. The temperature should not be higher than suffices to keep the mass liquid; the mixture is effected by vigorous stirring, and is then at once, though gradually, cooled.
Beef-Marrow Pomade (Pomade à Moëlle de Bœuf)
| Lard | 8 lb. |
| Beef marrow | 4 lb. |
| Oil of bergamot | 1 oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 2 oz. |
| Oil of mace | 150 grains. |
| Oil of clove | 150 grains. |
Marrow Cream (Crême de Moëlle)
| Expressed oil of almond | 4 lb. |
| Lard | 4 lb. |
| Palm oil | 3½ oz. |
| Oil of bergamot | 2 oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 7 oz. |
| Oil of nutmeg | 150 grains. |
| Oil of clove | 150 grains. |
| Oil of cinnamon | 150 grains. |
The public is accustomed to receive the last two pomades in the form of froth. This can be easily effected by whipping the pomade during cooling with an egg-beater until it is solidified.
Cinchona Pomade (Pomade à Quinquine)
| Lard | 4 lb. |
| Expressed oil of almond | 1 lb. |
| Beef marrow | 6 lb. |
| Peru balsam | 1 oz. |
| Cinchona bark | ¾ oz. |
| Oil of clove | 1 oz. |
| Oil of rose | 150 grains. |
Macerate the finely powdered bark in the fat for some hours, add the Peru balsam, strain through a cloth, and incorporate the essential oils. The pomade is vaunted as a hair tonic, as well as
Tanno-Quinine Pomade which is prepared in the same way; the only difference being the addition of 150 grains of tannin.
Castor-Oil Cream (Crême de Ricine)
| Expressed oil of almond | 3 lb. |
| Castor oil | 3 lb. |
| Rose pomade | 2 lb. |
| Orange-flower pomade | 2 lb. |
| Tuberose pomade | 2 lb. |
| Oil of bergamot | 7 oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 3½ oz. |
Orange-flower Pomade (Pomade à Fleurs d’Oranges)
| Expressed oil of almond | 38½ oz. |
| Cassie pomade | 38½ oz. |
| Rose pomade | 35 oz. |
| Jasmine pomade | 35 oz. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 150 grains. |
| Oil of neroli | ½ oz. |
Heliotrope Pomade (Pomade de Héliotrope)
| Rose pomade | 4 lb. |
| Orange-flower pomade | 1 lb. |
| Huile antique of jasmine | 2 lb. |
| Huile antique of orange flower | 1 lb. |
| Huile antique of tuberose | 1 lb. |
| Vanilla pomade | 2 lb. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 150 grains. |
| Oil of clove | 75 grains. |
Transparent Pomade
| Expressed oil of almond | 6 lb. |
| Wax | 5½ oz. |
| Spermaceti | 1 lb. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 75 grains. |
| Oil of rose | 150 grains. |
| Tincture of musk | 1½ oz. |
The pomade is completely liquefied after being mixed and allowed to congeal in the vessels in which it is marketed. If successful, the product must be quite transparent or at least decidedly translucent.
Tonka Cream
| Tonka beans | 1 lb. |
| Lard | 8 lb. |
The powdered beans are stirred into the melted fat, in which they remain for several days, the fat being agitated from time to time; when it smells strong enough, it is strained through fine linen, and the tonka beans are treated with another quantity of fat.
Violet Pomade (Pomade des Violettes)
| Lard | 4 lb. |
| Cassie pomade | 3 lb. |
| Rose pomade | 2 lb. |
| Violet pomade | 2 lb. |
Vanilla Cream (Crême de Vanille)
In making this pomade the material is treated the same as in preparing tonka pomade. Ordinary vanilla pomade is made by triturating:
| Peru balsam | 7 oz. |
| Lard | 2 lb. |
| Expressed oil of almond | 2 lb. |
First triturate the balsam with the almond oil and gradually add the lard. Another, much better process is the following:
Vanilla Pomade
| Vanillin | 80 grains. |
| Peru balsam | ½ oz. |
| Lard | 6 lb. |
Dissolve the vanillin and balsam of Peru in about 4 oz. of alcohol. Melt the lard at as low a temperature as possible, then add the solution, stir until it is well incorporated, and afterward repeatedly until the mass is cold.
Pomade Philocome
| Huile antique of cassie | 1 lb. |
| Huile antique of jasmine | 1 lb. |
| Huile antique of orange flower | 3½ oz. |
| Huile antique of rose | 3½ oz. |
| Huile antique of tuberose | 3½ oz. |
| Huile antique of violet | 1 lb. |
| Paraffin | 10½ oz. |
| Wax | 14 oz. |
This pomade has a delightful odor but is expensive; an inferior and much cheaper philocome is made as follows:
| Expressed oil of almond | 8 lb. |
| Paraffin | ½ lb. |
| Wax | 14 oz. |
| Oil of bergamot | 4¼ oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 1¾ oz. |
| Oil of lavender | ¾ oz. |
| Nutmeg | 75 grains. |
| Cloves | 75 grains. |
| Cinnamon | 75 grains. |
Pomades are usually colored—rose pomade, red; reseda pomade, green; violet pomade, violet, etc. For this purpose aniline colors are frequently used; they must be dissolved in glycerin and added to the fat, as they are insoluble in the latter. The coloring matter is added when the pomades are finished, before they are allowed to congeal.
B. Hair Oils
These differ from pomades mainly by containing huiles antiques instead of washed pomades; they are therefore more or less liquid and are used for the hair as much as pomades.
Benzoated Oil (Huile à Benjamin)
| Sublimed benzoic acid | 5 oz. |
| Expressed oil of almond | 4 lb. |
The acid must be dissolved in the hot oil.
Huile à l’Ess-Bouquet
| Oil of rose | 150 grains. |
| Oil of reseda | 3½ oz. |
| Oil of violet | 150 grains. |
| Tincture of musk | 75 grains. |
| Almond oil | 6 lb. |
The essential oils are mixed, and the almond oil is added in small portions under continual stirring.
Heliotrope Hair Oil (Huile Héliotrope)
| Huile antique of jasmine | 10½ oz. |
| Huile antique of rose | 2 lb. |
| Huile antique of orange flower | 5½ oz. |
| Huile antique of tuberose | 5½ oz. |
| Huile antique of vanilla | 1 lb. |
| Oil of bitter almond | 150 grains. |
| Oil of clove | 75 grains. |
Jasmine Hair Oil (Huile de Jasmin)
| Expressed oil of almond | 4 lb. |
| Huile antique of jasmine. | 7 oz. |
| Oil of bergamot | 1 oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 150 grains. |
Oil of Swiss Herbs
| Expressed oil of almond | 4 lb. |
| Oil of bergamot | 150 grains. |
| Oil of lemon | 75 grains. |
| Oil of lavender | 75 grains. |
| Oil of peppermint | 150 grains. |
| Oil of cinnamon | 75 grains. |
Oil of Burdock Root
| Expressed oil of almond | 4 lb. |
| Burdock root | 1 lb. |
| Oil of bergamot | 1 oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 1 oz. |
| Oil of rose | ¾ oz. |
The burdock root is macerated for two days in the warm oil, which is then filtered and the other ingredients are added.
Macassar Oil
| Expressed oil of almond | 4 lb. |
| Alkanet root | 7 oz. |
| Oil of clove | 75 grains. |
| Oil of mace | 75 grains. |
| Oil of rose | 75 grains. |
| Oil of cinnamon | ½ oz. |
| Tincture of musk | 75 grains. |
The alkanet root in coarse powder must be macerated in the warm almond oil until it acquires a deep red color.
Peru Hair Oil
| Peru balsam | 3½ oz. |
| Storax | 1¾ oz. |
| Expressed oil of almond | 8 lb. |
Mix by stirring, and allow to settle for two weeks in a completely filled bottle.
Huile Philocome
| Expressed oil of almond | 4 lb. |
| Huile antique of cassie | 1 lb. |
| Huile antique of jasmine | 28 oz. |
| Wax | 3½ oz. |
| Spermaceti | 1¾ oz. |
| Oil of neroli | 1 oz. |
| Oil of rose | 150 grains. |
| Oil of cinnamon | 75 grains. |
Portugal Oil
| Expressed oil of almond | 4 lb. |
| Oil of bergamot | 1 oz. |
| Oil of lemon | 150 grains. |
| Oil of neroli | 75 grains. |
| Oil of orange flower | 75 grains. |
| Oil of orange peel | ¾ oz. |
| Oil of cinnamon | 75 grains. |
Tonka Oil
| Tonka beans | 1 lb. |
| Expressed oil of almond | 4 lb. |
Inclose the powdered tonka beans in a linen bag, which is hung into the cold oil and allowed to macerate for several weeks. The same process is employed for the following:
Vanilla Oil
| Vanilla | 7 oz. |
| Almond oil | 4 lb. |
Or,
| Vanillin | 80 grains. |
| Expressed oil of almond | 4 lb. |