Perfumes and Their Preparation

Chapter XI Directions for Making the Most Important Essences and Extracts

Note.—There is considerable confusion, in works on perfumery, regarding the terms essence and extract. In French works, essence always means “essential oil.” Thus “essence de rose” is “essential oil of roses,” or “attar (otto) of roses.” Extrait (French) is used of alcoholic solutions of oils, as well as alcoholic extracts of pomades, or of substances not wholly soluble in alcohol, and also of compound liquids. In English, essence is used, and should be confined to alcoholic solutions of essential oils (“essence of lemon,” “essence of peppermint”). It is, then, equivalent to the term “spirit,” which is also used only of alcoholic solutions of essential oils or other volatile substance (such as: spirit of peppermint, essence of peppermint; spirit of camphor, etc.). Liquid alcoholic extracts of substances not wholly soluble in alcohol are properly called tinctures (for instance, tincture of benzoin, tincture of musk); and liquid alcoholic extracts of pomades, or compound odorous liquids, are best comprised under the general term extracts.

We shall employ the terms essence, extract, and tincture in the sense here explained.

Extract of Cassie (Extrait de Cassie)

Cassie pomade	6 lbs.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Extract of cassie has a fine green color—a fact which is not desirable in perfumes intended for the handkerchief because colored preparations leave stains. However, extract of cassie is rarely used pure, but is generally mixed with other odors for handkerchief perfumes, whereby the color is so much diluted that it may be disregarded. This extract—and the same remark applies to all the others—immediately after its preparation must be put into tightly closed vessels and preserved in the coolest attainable dark place; for light, air, and heat must be called the destroyers of perfumes, since the most delightful odors eventually disappear under their influence.

For the benefit of manufacturers who import this extract from Southern France, the main source of supply, we may add that the word cassie or extrait de cassie, derived from the flowers of Acacia farnesiana, might readily give rise to confusion with extrait de cassia, made from the bark of the cinnamon cassia.

Tincture of Ambergris (Extrait d’Ambregris)

Ambergris	5 oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

The ambergris should be broken into small pieces with a chopping knife repeatedly moistened with alcohol, and allowed to digest in the alcohol for some weeks at a temperature of about 30° C. (86° F.).

Tincture of Benzoin (Extrait de Benjoin)

Benzoin	10 oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

This tincture is not so much used for handkerchief perfumes as for preserving many pomades, as it possesses the valuable property of preventing fats from becoming rancid.

Essence of Bergamot (Extrait de Bergamotte)

Oil of bergamot	8 oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Tincture of Castor (Extrait de Castoreum)

Castor	2½ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Tincture of Musk Seed (Extrait d’Ambrette)

Musk seed, powdered	1 lb.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Essence of Bitter Almond (Extrait d’Amande)

Oil of bitter almond	1¾ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Essence of Calamus (Extrait de Glaïeul)

Oil of calamus	1¾ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

This essence has a pleasant odor, but it is not valued as a true perfume; though if it is mixed with other essences or extracts until its characteristic odor is no longer recognizable it furnishes a very useful basis for many cheap articles.

Essence of Cedar (Extrait de Cèdre)

Oil of cedar wood	½ lb.
Alcohol	5 qts.

This essence made from the oil is colorless and can be used immediately for handkerchief perfumes.

Tincture of Cedar (Extrait de Bois de Cèdre)

This is made by digesting finely rasped cedar wood with strong alcohol, namely:

Cedar wood chips	6 lb.
Alcohol	5 qts.

The result is a fragrant tincture with a beautiful deep red color which cannot be employed for handkerchief perfumes, but for many cosmetic preparations such as mouth washes and for scenting soap.

Essence of Citronella

Extrait de citronella	3 to 3½ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Essence of Lemon Grass (Extrait de Schoenanthe)

Oil of lemon grass	2 to 3 oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Extract of Lilac (Extrait de Lilas)

The genuine is seldom made; the preparation sold under this name consists of:

Oil of bitter almond	15 grains.
Extract of orange flowers, from pomade	2 qts.
Extract of tuberose, from pomade	3 qts.
Tincture of civet	¼ pint.

Of late, extract of lilac is often prepared by means of lilacin or terpineol, as follows:

Lilacin	1 oz.
Alcohol	1 pint.

Extract of Honeysuckle (Extrait de Chèvre-feuille).

The author has made this extract by treating the pomade prepared from the flowers of Lonicera Caprifolium, in the following proportion:

Honeysuckle pomade	6 lb.
Alcohol	5 qts.

The commercial extract of this name is always a compound which may be prepared according to the following formula:

Extract of rose, made from the pomade	1 qt.
Extract of tuberose, from pomade	1 qt.
Extract of violet, from pomade	1 qt.
Tincture of vanilla	½ pint.
Tincture of Tolu	½ pint.
Oil of bitter almond	15 grains.
Oil of neroli	8 grains.

Essence of Geranium

Oil of geranium (rose-geranium)	5½ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

In the commercial article the essence of lemon grass is often substituted for the essence of geranium, the odor being similar, though less delicate.

Extract of Cucumber (Extrait de Concombres)

Cucumbers	8 lbs.
Alcohol	5 qts.

The cucumbers are peeled, cut into thin slices, and macerated in the warm alcohol. If the odor is not strong enough in the alcohol after some days, it is poured over some more fresh slices, the macerated residue is expressed, and at the end of the operation all the liquids are united and filtered.

Extract of Heliotrope (Extrait de Héliotrope)

Heliotrope pomade	6 lb.
Alcohol	5 qts.

This has thus far been manufactured only by French perfumers at very high prices; the great majority of the so-called extracts of heliotrope are compounded from:

Extract of rose, from pomade	2 qts.
Extract of orange flowers, from pomade	14 oz.
Tincture of ambergris	7 oz.
Tincture of vanilla	4 qts.
Oil of bitter almond	75 grains.

This is used as a perfume as such.

More recently, piperonal, under the name heliotropin, is used for making this extract—

Heliotropin	¼ oz.
Alcohol	1 Pint.

It is necessary to blend this with various other aromatics in order to cover the pronounced odor. A little cumarin is usually of great help. But is it impossible, as yet, to give reliable proportions which would suit all cases.

Extract of Jasmine (Extrait de Jasmin)

Jasmine pomade	6 lb.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Essence of Lavender (Extrait de Lavande)

Oil of lavender	7 oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

A far superior essence may be prepared by the distillation of:

Oil of lavender	7 oz.
Rose water	2 qts.
Alcohol	10 qts.

The distillation is continued until one-half of the entire liquid has passed over; the residue in the still furnishes an essence of lavender of the second quality.

Extract of Wallflower (Extrait de Giroflé)

The genuine odor can be made only from the pomade; the commercial extract consists of:

Extract of cassie, from pomade	1 pint.
Extract of orange flower, from pomade	1 qt.
Extract of rose, from pomade	1 qt.
Tincture of vanilla.	1 pint.
Tincture of orris root	1 pint.
Oil of bitter almond	1 pint.

Extract of Lily (Extrait de Lys)

As to this delightful odor the remark made under the preceding head applies likewise; artificial extract of lily consists of:

Extract of cassie, from pomade	3 pints.
Extract of jasmine, from pomade	13½ fl. oz.
Extract of orange flower, from pomade	27 fl. oz.
Extract of rose, from pomade	3 pints.
Extract of tuberose, from pomade	3 qts.
Tincture of vanilla	40½ fl. oz.
Oil of bitter almond	30 grains.

Essence of Lemon (Extrait de Limon)

Oil of lemon	7 oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Extract of Magnolia (Extrait de Magnolia)

This favorite perfume is a mixture of:

Extract of orange flower, from pomade	2 qts.
Extract of rose, from pomade	4 qts.
Extract of tuberose, from pomade	1 qt.
Extract of violet, from pomade	1 qt.
Oil of bitter almond	40 grains.
Oil of lemon	16 grains.

Essence of Peppermint (Extrait de Menthe)

Oil of peppermint	6½ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Tincture of Musk (Extrait de Musc)

Musk	2½ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

This tincture is of special importance, not so much because of its odor as on account of its useful property of fixing other very volatile odors.

Extract of Myrtle (Extrait de Myrte)

Owing to the small yield of essential oil furnished on distillation by the myrtle and the comparatively high price of the oil of myrtle, nearly all the extract of myrtle is prepared artificially, as follows:

Extract of jasmine, from pomade	½ pint.
Extract of orange flower, from pomade	1 qt.
Extract of rose, from pomade	2 qts.
Extract of tuberose, from pomade	1 qt.
Tincture of vanilla	1 qt.

Extract of Narcissus

In perfumery, two extracts of narcissus are distinguished—true extract of narcissus, from the flowers of the garden plant, Narcissus poeticus, and the so-called extract of jonquille, from Narcissus Jonquilla, which is cultivated in Southern France and whose odor is obtained by maceration. Genuine extract of narcissus is even more rarely obtainable than extract of jonquille; the odors of both are imitated, mainly according to the following prescriptions:

1. Extract of Narcissus (Extrait de Narcisse)

Extract of jonquille, from pomade	2 qts.
Extract of tuberose, from pomade	3 qts.
Tincture of storax	½ pint.
Tincture of tolu	½ pint.

2. Extract of Jonquille (Extrait de Jonquille)

Extract of jasmine, from pomade	2 qts.
Extract of orange flower, from pomade	1 qt.
Extract of tuberose, from pomade	2 qts.
Tincture of vanilla	½ pint.

Essence of Clove (Extrait de Clous de Girofles)

Oil of clove	4½ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Extract of Pink (Extrait d’Œillet)

This pleasant odor occurs in commerce only as an imitation.

Extract of cassie, from pomade	2½ pints.
Extract of orange flower, from pomade	2½ pints.
Extract of rose, from pomade	5 pints.
Tincture of vanilla	20 fl. oz.
Oil of clove, a sufficient quantity, about	75 grains.

The oil of clove which determines the characteristic odor of this extract is dissolved in a little alcohol; of this solution enough is gradually added to the mixture until the odor has become sufficiently strong.

Extract of Orange Flower or Neroli (Extrait de Fleurs d’Oranges, Extrait de Néroli)

Orange-flower pomade	6 lb.
Alcohol	5 qts.
Or,
Oil neroli pétale	2½ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

The latter preparation is also called “essence of neroli.”

The extract prepared from the pomade furnishes this highly esteemed odor of a delicacy never to be approached by that made with oil. The alcoholic extract of the pomade perfumed with the flowers of Syringa (Philadelphus coronarius) also occurs in commerce as extract of orange flowers or neroli.

Essence of Patchouly (Extrait de Patchouli)

Oil of patchouly	1¼ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

This pure essence of patchouly has not a very pleasant odor; that made according to the following formula is far superior.

Oil of patchouly	1½ oz.
Oil of rose	⅜ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Tincture of Balsam of Peru (Extrait de Pérou)

Peru balsam	10½ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

This tincture, though of a very pleasant odor, can be used only for scenting soap or sachets, as it has a very dark brown color; by distilling alcohol over Peru balsam a colorless extract is obtained, though of a fainter odor.

Essence of Allspice (Extrait de Piment)

Oil of allspice	3½ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Extract of Sweet Pea (Extrait de Pois de Senteur)

This extract, made almost exclusively in Southern France by maceration of the pomade, is but rarely met with in commerce; what passes under this name is made as follows:

Extract of orange flower, from pomade	2½ pints.
Extract of rose, from pomade	2½ pints.
Extract of tuberose, from pomade	2½ pints.
Tincture of vanilla	5¾ oz.

Extract of Reseda (Extrait de Mignonette)

Reseda pomade	5 to 6 lb.
Alcohol	5 qts.
Tincture of tolu	5½ oz.

The addition of the tincture of tolu is necessary here, owing to the extraordinary volatility of the delightful odor of mignonette, which is lessened by the addition of tincture of tolu.

Essence or Extract of Rose (Extraits de Rose)

In commerce several sorts of essence or extract of rose are distinguished; only the cheaper grades are made by direct solution of the oil of rose in alcohol, the better grades are prepared only from pomades. As the rose is the noblest of flowers, so are these odors the most magnificent thus far produced by the art of perfumery, since they are approached in delicacy and fragrance only by the genuine extracts of orange flower and violet. The so-called rose waters (eaux de rose) are best obtained by distillation of fresh or salted rose leaves with water. The preceding formulæ will show that both extract of rose and rose water form important constituents of many compound essences, hence these materials require special attention. In the following pages we enumerate only those formulæ which are acknowledged as the best and furnish the finest product. As rose water likewise belongs among the rose odors we give directions for its preparation, and observe in passing that the precautions required in the manufacture of this one apply also to all aromatic waters (eaux aromatisées). The first essential to the production of a fine aromatic water is the employment of the freshest possible flowers; when kept in stock, chemical changes occur in the leaves which affect also the aromatic constituents and lead to a deterioration of the fragrance. Hence we urgently recommend to distil the freshly gathered flowers as soon as possible, even if the quantity on hand be small. Should this not be feasible, it is advisable to press the flowers immediately after gathering in stone-ware pots and to pour over them a saturated solution of table salt. A concentrated saline solution prevents decomposition by the abstraction of water; and thus larger quantities of flowers may be gathered and distilled with the salt solution. The majority of aromatic waters are prepared in this way, for instance, rose, jasmine, lilac, and others. They enter less into handkerchief perfumes than into various mouth and other washes, and cosmetics in general.

Rose Water (Eau de Rose Triple)

Rose leaves	4 lb.
Water	20 pints.

Mix them, and by means of steam, distil 10 pints.

The rose leaves are, of course, preferably to be used while fresh. If they are to be preserved for future use, they should be packed in stone-ware jars, and covered with a solution of common salt. This is poured off before distillation, but used over again for the same purpose.

Extract of Rose (Extrait de Roses Triple)

Rose pomade	8 lb.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Essence of [Oil of] Rose (Esprit de Roses Triple).

Oil of rose	3½ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

This essence is not so good as the extract.

Extract of China Roses (Essence de Roses Jaunes)

Essence of rose (triple)	2 qts.
Tincture of tonka	½ pint.
Extract of tuberose	2 qts.
Extract of verbena	½ pint.

Extract of Sweet-Brier (Wild Rose) (Extrait d’Eglantine)

Extract of cassie, from pomade	44 fl. oz.
Extract of orange flower, from pomade	44 fl. oz.
Extract of rose, from pomade	2½ qts.
Essence of rose (triple)	44 fl. oz.
Oil of lemon grass	¼ oz.
Oil of neroli	¼ oz.

Extract of Moss-Rose (Extrait de Roses Mousseuses)

Extract of rose, from pomade	2 qts.
Extract of orange flower, from pomade	1 qt.
Essence of rose (triple)	1 qt.
Tincture of ambergris	1 pint.
Tincture of musk	½ lb.

Extract of Tea-Rose (Extrait de Rosa Théa)

Extract of rose, from pomade	1 qt.
Extract of geranium, from pomade	1 qt.
Extract of orange flower, from pomade	½ pint.
Essence of rose (triple)	1 qt.
Tincture of santal	½ pint.
Tincture of orris root	½ pint.

Extract of White Rose (Essence de Roses Blanches)

Extract of rose, from pomade	1 qt.
Extract of jasmine, from pomade	1 pint.
Extract of violet, from pomade	1 qt.
Essence of patchouly	½ pint.
Essence of rose (triple)	1 qt.

Extract of Twin-Roses (Essence de Roses Jumelles)

Extract of rose, from pomade	5 qts.
Oil of rose	1¾ oz.

Extract of Santal (Extrait de Santal)

Tincture of santal	3½ oz.
Essence of rose (triple)	1 pint.
Alcohol	9 pints.

Tincture of Storax (Essence de Styrax)

Storax	10½ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Though this tincture has a pleasant odor, it is not ordinarily used by itself, but for fixing other odors.

Tincture of Tolu (Extrait de Baume de Tolou)

Tolu balsam	10½ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

The remark made under tincture of storax applies also to this.

Tincture of Tonka (Extrait de Tonka)

Tonka beans, crushed	21 oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Extract of Tuberose (Extrait de Tuberose)

Tuberose pomade	8-10 lb.
Alcohol	5 qts.
Tincture of storax	10 fl. oz.

Tincture of Vanilla (Extrait de Vanille)

Vanilla, sliced	½ lb.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Extract of Violet (Extrait de Violette)

Violet pomade	6-7 lb.
Extract of cassie	6½ fl. oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

This extract is very expensive; a good imitation is made as follows:

Extract of cassie, from pomade	2 qts.
Extract of rose, from pomade	1 qt.
Extract of tuberose, from pomade	1 qt.
Tincture of orris root	1 qt.
Oil of bitter almond	15 grains.

Tincture of Orris Root (Extrait d’Iris)

Orris root, powdered	6-7 lb.
Alcohol	5 qts.

This tincture is sold as a very cheap violet perfume, but it has also considerable value to perfumery in general, owing to its fixing power.

Extract of Verbena (Extrait de Verveine)

True oil of verbena is rather expensive. Hence artificial compositions are employed under the name of verbena which resemble the true odor, though not exactly like it.

Extract of Verbena A.

Oil of lemon grass	75 grains.
Oil of lemon	14 oz.
Oil of orange peel	3½ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

This extract is cheap and is used immediately as a perfume. The extract usually sold under the French name Extrait de verveine is more expensive and far superior:

Extract of Verbena B.

Extract of orange flower, from pomade	30 fl. oz.
Extract of rose, from pomade	1 qt.
Extract of tuberose, from pomade	⅓ oz.
Oil of citron zeste	½ oz.
Oil of lemon grass	¾ oz.
Oil of lemon peel	9 oz.
Oil of orange peel	4½ oz.
Alcohol	4⅔ pints.

As already explained, if hand-pressed oil of lemon (made by the écuelle process) is available, then the “oil of citron zeste” (which is this particular kind of oil) and the “oil of lemon” may be simply added together; that is, 9½ oz. of oil of lemon are used.

Extract of Volcameria (Extrait de Volcameria)

This extract is no more derived from the fragrant blossom whose name it bears than are those of the lily, pink, and others met with in commerce. It is prepared according to the following formula:

Extract of jasmine, from pomade	1 pint.
Extract of rose, from pomade	1 qt.
Extract of tuberose, from pomade	2 qts.
Extract of violet, from pomade	2 qts.
Tincture of musk.	½ pint.

Essence of Vetiver (Extrait de Vétiver)

Oil of vetiver	2½ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Tincture of Olibanum (Extrait d’Oliban, Extrait d’Encens).

Olibanum	1 lb.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Extract of Wintergreen (Extrait de Gaulthérie)

This essence is more commonly sold under the English than the French name. Its composition is the following:

Tincture of ambergris	1 pint.
Extract of cassie	1 qt.
Essence of lavender	1 pint.
Extract of orange flower, from pomade	1 qt.
Extract of rose, from pomade	2 qts.
Tincture of vanilla.	1 pint.
Essence of vetiver	1 pint.

Tincture of Civet (Extrait de Civette)

Civet.	1—1½ oz.
Orris root	1—1½ oz.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Tincture of civet is exceedingly lasting and is generally employed for fixing other odors. As to the quantity required to fix perfumes in general, we may state that it varies with the nature of the odor. As a rule, about one-sixteenth part of tincture of civet suffices for even the most volatile perfumes.

Tincture of Cinnamon (Extrait de Canelle)

Cinnamon	1 lb.
Alcohol	5 qts.

Owing to the yellow color left upon handkerchiefs by perfumes prepared with this extract, it can be used only for common goods, but it is more frequently employed for scenting soaps.