The English-American

Chap. XXI Shewing My Journey From the Towne of Petapa, Into England; and Some Chiefe Passages in the Way

The chiefe thing which troubled me in my resolved purpose to come home, was the choice of the safest way; which made me utterly forsake the Gulfe (though the easiest way of all, and that sea neerest to the place where I lived) for that I knew I should meet there with many of my acquaintance, and the setting out of the ships was so uncertain, that before they departed, order might come from Guatemala to stop me; if I should go by land through Comayagua to Truxillo, and there wait for the ships, likewise I feared lest the Governour of that place by some item from the President of Guatemala might examine me, and send me backe, and that the Masters of the ships might have charge given them not to receive me into their ships. If I should goe backe to Mexico and Vera Cruz, then I called to mind, how I was troubled in that long journey, when I came first to Chiapa in company of friends, and that now alone I should certainly be much put to it, for I would not carry Miguel Dalva so far by land with me. Wherefore rejecting these three wayes, I chose the fourth, which was by Nicaragua and the Lake of Granada; and therefore I deferred my journey till the week after Christmas, knowing that the time of the frigats setting out from that lake to the Havana was commonly after the middle of January, or at Candlemas at the furthest, whither I hoped to reach in very good time. Now that I might by no means be suspected to have taken this way; before I went I left by the hand of Miguel Dalva a letter to a friend of his to be delivered to the Provinciall in Guatemala, foure dayes after my departure, wherein I kindly tooke my leave of him, desiring him not to blame me nor to seeke after me; and whereas I had a sufficient Licence from Rome, and could not get his, that I thought I might with a safe Conscience goe where I was born, leaving Linguists enough to supply my place amongst the Indians. And because he should not make enquiry after me by Nicaragua, I dated and subscribed my letter to him from the Towne of St. Antonio Suchutepeques, which was the way to Mexico and quite contrary to Nicaragua.

The next day after Twelfth day, being the seventh of January, 1637. at midnight I set out of Petapa upon a lusty Mule (which afterwards in the way I sold for fourscore peeces of eight) with Miguel Dalva alone; and the first part of the way being very hilly we could not goe so fast as our hearts would have posted; for it was breake of day before we could get to the top of the mountaine, which is called Serro Redondo, or the round hill; which is much mentioned in that Countrey, for the good pasture there which serveth for the Cattell and Sheep, when the valleys below are burnt and no grasing left for Beasts. This hill is also a great refuge to Travellers, for there they find good entertainment in a Venta, where wine and provision is sold, and is a great Lodge, for to lay up dry what carriages they bring; there is besides one of the best Estancia’s or farmes of Cattell in the Countrey, where of Goats and Ewes milke is made the best cheese thereabouts. This round hill or mountaine is five leagues from Petapa, where I feared I might meet with some people of Petapa, and therefore the day now dawning I made haste by it, leaving in the lodge asleep many Indians, who attended on two Spanish Requa’s of Mules, which that day were to goe to Petapa; foure leagues further from this Serro Redondo is a Towne of Indians called Los Esclavos, or the Slaves, not that now they are more slaves then the rest of the Indians, but because in the old time of Montezuma the Emperour, and the Indian Kings that were under him, the people of this Towne were more slaves then any other, for from Amatitlan (which is so called from Amat, which in the Mexican tongue signifieth Letter, and Itlan which signifieth Towne, for that it was the Towne of Letters as some say, for a rine of a tree, whereon they were wont formerly to write and expresse their minds, or because it was the place whither from all parts letters were sent to be carried about the Countrey, and to Peru) these Indians of the Towne of Esclavo’s or slaves, were commanded as slaves to goe all about the Countrey with letters, or whatsoever else they should be charged with; and they were bound constantly to send every week so many of their Towne (as were appointed) unto Amatitlan, there to wait and attend the pleasure of that Towne for the conveying of letters, or any carriages to other parts.

This Towne of los Esclavos standeth in a bottome by a river, over the which the Spaniards have built a very strong stone Bridge to goe in and out of the Town, for otherwise with mules there is no passing by reason of the violent and rapid streame of the water, and many rocks in the River, from which the water falleth down with great force. From this Town (where wee onely stayed to drink a cup of Chocolatte and to bait our mules) wee went on that day to Aguachapa, being ten leagues further, and not farre from the South Sea, and the port called De la Trinidad; whither wee came towards Evening, having that day and part of the night travelled about threescore English miles up hils, and upon stony wayes from the Esclavo’s unto this Town; which is much mentioned in that Country for two things. The one is for the earthen ware which is made there (as some think) exceeding that of Mixco. The other is for a place within a mile and a halfe from the Town, which the Spaniards doe credibly report and beleeve to be a mouth of hell. For out of it there is constantly ascending a thick black smoak smelling of Brimstone, with some flashes now and then of fire; the earth from whence this smoak ariseth is not high, but low. None ever durst draw nigh to find out the truth and ground of it; for those that have attempted to doe it, have been stricken down to the ground and like to lose their lives. A friend of mine a Fryer (whom I thought verily I might beleeve) upon his oath affirmed unto me, that travelling that way with a Provinciall hee resolved to goe unto the place, and satisfie himselfe of the ground and cause of the strange talke which was every where about the Country concerning that smoke. He went within a quarter of a mile of it, and presently, hee said, he heard a hideous noise, which together with the stench of the fiery smoke and brimstone, struck him into such a fear that he was like to fall to the ground, and retiring himself back with all speed was taken with a burning Feaver, which was like to cost him his life. Others report that drawing neer unto it, they have heard great cries as it were of men and women in torment, noise of iron, of chaines, and the like, which (how simply I leave it to my Judicious Reader) maketh them beleeve that it is a mouth of hell. Of my knowledge I will say no more, but that I saw the smoke, and asked the Indians what was the cause of it; and if ever they had been neer unto it? And they answered mee, that they could not imagine what might bee the cause of it, neither durst they draw nigh unto it; and that they had seen Travellers, attempting to goe neere it, and that they were all stricken either to the ground, or with some suddaine amazement, or Feaver. I told them that I would walke thither my self, and they desired mee that I would not, if I loved my life. It was not yet for all this report the feare of being so neer the Spaniards hell (as they call it) that made me haste with speed out of that Town, but fear of some messenger that might come after mee to stop my journy. For at midnight I departed from thence, and went to breake my fast to a great Town called Chalchuapan, where the Indians made very much of mee, being Pocomanes, who spake the Poconchi or Pocoman tongue which I had learned. They would willingly have had me to stay with them and preach unto them the next Sabbath, which I would have done, had not a better designe called upon mee to make haste.

Here I was troubled, how I should get through St. Salvador, which was a City of Spaniards, and wherein there was a Cloister of Dominicans, whom I feared most of all, because I was known by some of them. My resolution was therefore when I came neere unto the City, to turn out of my way to a Spaniards Farm as if I had lost my way, and there to delay the time till Evening in drinking Chocolatte, discoursing, and baiting my mules well, that so I might travell all that night, and bee out of the reach of that City, and Fryers (who lived in Indian Towns about it) the next morning, early. This City of St. Salvador is poore, not much bigger then Chiapa, and is governed by a Spanish Governour. It standeth forty leagues at least from Guatemala, and towards the North Sea side, is compassed with very high mountains, which are called Chuntales, where the Indians are very poore. In the bottome where the City standeth there are some Trabiches of Sugar, some Indigo made, but the chief Farmes are Estancia’s of Cattell. Towards Evening I departed from that Farm where I had well refreshed my selfe and my Mule, and about eight of the clock I rid through the City not being known by any body. My purpose was to bee the next morning at a great River, called Rio de Lempa, some ten leagues from St. Salvador, for within two leagues of it there lived in an Indian Town a Fryer belonging to the Cloister of St. Salvador who knew mee very well. But such haste I made that before break of the day I passed through that Town, and before seven of the clock I was at the River, where I found my Indian of Mixco ready to passe over with my carriage, who that morning by three of the clock had set out of that Town two leagues off. I was not a little glad to have overtaken my Chests, wherein was most of my treasure. There I sate down a while by the River whilst my mules grazed, and my Indian struck fire and made me Chocolatte. This River of Lempa is held the broadest, and biggest in all the Jurisdiction belonging unto Guatemala; there are constantly two Ferry Boats to passe over the Travellers, and their Requa’s of Mules. This River is privileged in this manner, that if a man commit any hainous crime or murther on this side of Guatemala, and San Salvador, or on the other side of St. Miguel, or Nicaragua, if hee can flie to get over this River, he is free as long as hee liveth on the other side, and no Justice on that side whither hee is escaped can question or trouble him for the murther committed. So likewise for Debts hee cannot bee arrested. Though I thanked God I neither fled for the one, or for the other, yet it was my comfort that I was now going over to a priviledged Country, where I hoped I should bee free and sure, and that if any one did come after mee, hee would goe no further then to the River of Lempa. My Blackmore did much laugh at this my conceipt, and warranted mee that all would doe well. Wee Ferried safely over the River; and from thence went in company with my Indian to a little small Towne of Indians two leagues off, where wee made the best dinner that we had done from the Towne of Petapa, and willingly gave rest to all our mules till foure of the clocke in the afternoone; at which time wee set forth to another small Town little above two leagues off, through a plain, sandy, and Champaigne Country. The next day wee had but ten leagues to travaile to a Town called St. Miguel, which belongeth unto Spaniards, and though it bee not a City, yet is as bigge almost as San Salvador, and hath a Spanish Governour; in it there is one Cloister of Nuns, and another of Mercenarian Fryers, who welcomed mee unto their Cloister. For here I began to shew my face, and to think of selling away the Mule I rid on, being resolved from hence to goe by water or an Arm of the Sea, to a Town in Nicaragua called La Vieja. I would here have dismissed my Indian, but hee was loth to leave me untill I got to Granada, where hee desired to see mee shipped. I refused not his kind offer, because I knew hee was trusty and had brought my Chests well thither, and knew well the way to Granada. So I sent him by land to Realejo, or to La Vieja, which stand very neere together and thirty leagues by land from St. Miguel, and my self stayed that day and till the next day at noon in that Town, where I sold the mule, I rid on, because I knew that from Realejo to Granada I could have of the Indians a Mule for nothing for a dayes journey. My Blackmores mule I sent also by land with the Indian, and the next day went to the Gulfe, being three or foure miles from St. Miguel, where that afternoone I tooke Boat with many other passengers, and the next morning by eight in the morning was at La Vieja, which journey by land would have taken mee up neere three dayes. The next day my Indian came at night, and wee went to Realejo, (as I have observed before) a Haven very weak and unfortified on the South Sea; where if I would have stayed one fortnight I might have taken shipping for Panama, to goe from thence to Portabelo, and there stay for the Galeons from Spain. But I considered that the Galeons would not be there till June or July, and that so I should be at great charges in staying so long. But afterwards I wished I had accepted of that occasion, for I was at last forced to goe to Panama, and Portabelo. From hence to Granada I observed nothing, but the plainnesse and pleasantnesse of the way, which with the fruits and fertility of all things may well make Nicaragua the Paradise of America. Betweene Realejo and Granada standeth the City of Leon, neere unto a Vulcan of fire, which formerly burst out at the top, and did much hurt unto all the Country about; but since that it hath ceased, and now letteth the Inhabitants live without feare. Sometimes it smokes a little, which sheweth that as yet there is within some sulphurous substance.

Here it was that a Mercenarian Fryer thought to have discovered some great treasure, which might inrich himselfe and all that Country, being fully perswaded that the metall that burned within that Vulcan was Gold; whereupon hee caused a great Kettle to bee made, and hung at an iron chain to let it down from the top, thinking therewith to take up gold enough to make him Bishop and to inrich his poor kindred. But such was the power and strength of the fire within, that no sooner had hee let downe the Kettle, when it fell from the chain and from his hands being melted away.

This City of Leon is very curiously built, for the chief delight of the Inhabitants consisteth in their houses, and in the pleasure of the Country adjoyning, and in the abundance of all things for the life of man, more then in any extraordinary riches, which there are not so much injoyed, as in other parts of America. They are contented with fine gardens, with variety of singing birds, and parrets, with plenty of fish and flesh, which is cheap, and with gay houses, and so lead a delicious, lazy and idle life; not aspiring much to trade and traffique, though they have neer unto them the Lake, which commonly every yeere sendeth forth some Frigats to Havana by the North Sea, and Realejo on the South Sea, which to them might bee very commodious for any dealing and rich Trading in Peru, or to Mixco, if their spirits would carry them so farre: The Gentlemen of this City are almost as vaine and phantasticall as are those of Chiapa. And especially from the pleasure of this City, is all that Province of Nicaragua, called by the Spaniards Mahomets Paradise. From hence the way is plain and Levell to Granada, whither I got safely and joyfully, hoping that now I had no more journey to make by land, till I should land at Dover in England, and from thence post up to London. Two dayes after I had arrived at this place and rested my selfe, and injoyed the pleasant prospect of the Lake, I began to think of dismissing my Indian and Blackmore. But true and faithfull Miguel Dalva would by no meanes leave mee, till he saw me shipped; and that I had no more need of him by land; Likewise the Indian would willingly have stayed, but by no meanes I would permit him, for that I considered hee had a wife and children to looke to at home. Hee was as willing to return a foot, as to ride, because hee would have mee sell my mules, and make what mony I could of them; but I seeing the good nature of the Indian, would recompence his love with as much mony as might bee more beneficiall to him, then a tired Mule; which might have dyed in the way under him, and left him on foot; so I gave him money enough to bear his charges home, and to hire Mules at his one pleasure, and some to spare, when he came home. The Indian with many teares falling from his eyes, saying, hee feared hee should never more see mee, tooke his leave of mee the third day after wee arrived at Granada. My Blackmore and I being left alone, first began to thinke of selling away the two Mules, which had brought thither the Indian, and my Chests; for which I got fourscore and ten peeces of eight after so long a journey, and thought they were well sold. I would have had Miguel have sold away that whereon hee rid, (which was his own) and offered to buy him another that might better carry him back, but the loving and carefull Blackmore would not suffer mee to bee at such charges, considering the long journey which I was to make. After this, wee hearing that the frigats were not like to depart in a fortnight, thought of viewing well that stately and pleasant Towne a day or two, and then to betake our selves to some neer Indian Town, where wee might bee hid, (lest by the great resort of Requa’s of Mules, which at that time brought Indigo and Cochinill from Guatemala to the Frigats, wee should bee discovered) and might now and then come to the Town to treat concerning my passing in one of the Frigats to the Havana or to Carthagena. What in that Town wee observed was, two Cloisters of Mercenarian and Franciscan Fryers, and one of Nuns, very rich; and one Parish Church, which was as a Cathedrall, for the Bishop of Leon did more constantly reside there then in the City. The houses are fairer then those of Leon, and the Town of more Inhabitants, among whom there are some few Merchants of very great wealth, and many of inferiour degree very well to passe, who trade with Carthagena, Guatemala, San Salvador, and Comayagua, and some by the South sea to Peru and Panama. But at this time of the sending away the frigats, that Town is one of the wealthiest in all the North Tract of America; for the Merchants of Guatemala fearing to send all their goods by the Gulfe of Honduras, for that they have been often taken by the Hollanders between that and Havana, think it safer to send them by the frigats to Carthagena, which passage hath not been so much stopped by the Hollanders as the other. So likewise many times the Kings treasure, and revenues (when there is any report of ships at sea, or about the Cape of St. Anthony) are this way by the Lake of Granada passed to Carthagena. That yeer that I was there, before I betooke my selfe to an Indian Towne, in one day there entred six Requa’s (which were at least three hundred Mules) from St. Salvador and Comayagua onely, laden with nothing else but Indigo, Cochinil and Hides; and two dayes after from Guatemala came in three more, the one laden with silver, which was the Kings tribute from that Countrey; the other with Sugar, and the other with Indigo. The former Requa’s I feared not; but the latter made me keep close within my lodging, lest going abroad, I should be knowne by some of those that came from Guatemala; who after they had delivered what they brought, presently departed, and with their departure set mee at liberty, who for their sakes was a voluntary prisoner within mine owne lodging. But fearing lest more of these Requa’s might come and affright mee, I went to a Towne out of the rode, a league from Granada, and took my pleasure up and downe the Countrey where I was much feasted by the Mercenarian Friers, who enjoy most of those Towns. Amongst these I heard much of the passage in the frigots to Carthagena, which did not a little dishearten and discourage me. For although, whilst they saile upon the Lake, they goe securely and without trouble, yet when they fall from the Lake to the river (which there they call El Desaguadero) to goe out to the Sea, hic labor, hoc opus est, here is nothing but trouble, which sometimes makes that short voyage to last two moneths; for such is the fall of the waters in many places amongst the rockes, that many times they are forced to unlade the frigots, and lade them again with helpe of Mules which are there kept for that purpose, by a few Indians that live about the river, and have care of the Lodges made for to lay in the wares, whilest the frigots passe thorow those dangerous places to another Lodge, whither the wares are brought by Mules, and put againe into the frigots. Beside this trouble (which must needs be tedious to a passenger, to be thus stopped, who would willingly come soone to his journeys end) the abundance of gnats is such, which maketh him to take no joy in his voiage, and the heat in some places so intolerable, that many doe die before they get out to the sea. Though all this was terrible to me to hear, yet I comforted my selfe that my life was in the hands of the Lord, and that the frigots did commonly every yeer passe that way, and seldome any were lost. I went now and then to Granada to bargaine for my passage, and to know when the frigots would for certaine set out, and to provide my selfe of some dainties and Chocolatte for my journey, having agreed with a Master of a frigot for my diet at his table. The time was appointed within foure or five dayes; but suddainly all was crossed with a strict command from Guatemala, that the frigots should not goe out that yeer, because the President and whole Court was informed for certaine that some English or Holland ships was abroad at sea, and lay about the mouth of the river or Desaguadero waiting for the frigots of Granada, and that the said were sometimes lurking about the Islands of St. John, and St. Catharine (which then was our Providence) which made all the Merchants of the Countrey to feare and sweat with a cold sweat, and the President to be carefull for the Kings revenues, lest the losse of them should be imputed to his wilfull negligence, in stopping the frigots, whilst he might, and had warning given. This was but sad newes unto me, who knew not for the present, which way to dispose of my selfe. I began to thinke of the ship that was at Realejo ready to set out to Panama, thinking that would now be my best course, but enquiring after it, I was for certaine informed by some Merchants that it was newly gone. Then my eyes looked upon Comayagua and Truxillo, and upon the ships of Honduras, but these were but vaine and troubled thoughts, arising from a perplexed heart, for the ships were also gone from thence, without some small vessell or frigot might be there with newes from Havana or Carthagena (for those places send often word and notice of what ships are abroad at sea) but this also was a meer chance, and not to be trusted unto, as my friends did advise, and counsell me. Whereupon my perplexity more and more increased; onely my comfort was that there were more passengers besides my selfe, who I knew must take some course, and whom I also resolved to follow by sea, or land. Amongst us all we were once resolving to hire a frigot to carry us onely to Carthagena, but this would not bee granted, for no body would hazard his vessel and life for our sakes. Whilest we were thus distressed and perplexed enquiring about Granada of the Merchants what course we might take to get to Spaine that yeer, or to meet with the Havana or Carthagena, one that wished us well, counselled us to goe to Costarica, where at Carthago we should be sure to hear of some vessels bound for Portobel, either from the river called de los Anzuelos, or from the river called Suere, from whence every yeer went out some small frigots to carry Meale, Bacon, Fowles, and other provision for the Galeons to Portobel. This we thought was a hard and difficult journey, and of neer a hundred and fifty leagues, over mountaines and through desarts, where we should misse the pleasure, variety, and dainties of Guatemala and Nicaragua, and after all this peradventure might misse of an opportunity of any frigot bound to Portobelo. Yet so unwilling were we all to returne to Guatemala from whence we came, that we would rather go forward, and undergoe any difficulties, so that at last we might find any shipping to convey us where we might meet with the Galeons, which we knew were not to come to Portobel, till the month of June or July. We therefore agreed foure of us, three Spaniards and my selfe, to goe to Costarica, and there to trie our fortune. They had each of them (as my selfe had) carriage for one Mule, and none to ride on; but thought it their best way to buy each of them a Mule to carry them, which they hoped after their journey to sell againe at Costarica, and to get mony by them, and for their carriages to hire Mules and Indians from Towne to Towne, who also might serve to guide us through many dangerous places and passages, which we understood were in the way. Now I wished I had my Mule which I sold at San Miguel, or any one of the two which I sold before in Granada. But for my mony I doubted not, with the helpe of my Black-more, but I should find one for my purpose. I furnished my selfe very speedily, for fifty peeces of eight, of one which I feared not would performe my journey. My good and trusty Black-more would willingly have gone on with me, and further round the world if I would have permitted him; but I would not; but (thanked him heartily for what he had done, and gave him money enough in his purse, and dismissed him) hoping that the company of the three Spaniards would be sufficient comfort unto me.

Thus with one Indian to guide us we set four of us out of Granada, enjoying for the two first daies more of the pleasure of that Mahomets paradise Nicaragua, finding the way for the most part plain, the Townes pleasant, the Countrey shady, and every where fruits abounding. The second day after we set out, we were much affrighted with a huge and monstrous Caiman or Crocodile, which having come out of the Lake (which we passed by) and lying crosse a puddle of water bathing himselfe, and waiting for some prey, as we perceived after, whom we not knowing well at the first, but thinking that it had been some tree that was felled or fallen, passed close by it; when on a suddain we knew the scales of the Cayman, and saw the monster stir and move, and set himself against us; wherewith we made hast from him; but he thinking to have made some of us his greedy prey, ran after us, which when we perceived, and that he was like to overtake us, we were much troubled, untill one of the Spaniards (who knew better the nature & quality of that Beast then the rest) called upon us to turn on one side out of the way, and to ride on straight for a while, and then to turn on another side; and so to circumflex our way, which advice of his without doubt saved mine, or some of the others lives, for thus we wearied that mighty monster and escaped from him, who (had we rid out straightway) had certainly overtaken us, and killed some mule or man, for his straight forward flight was as swift as our Mules could run; but whilst he turned and wheeled about his heavy body, we got ground and advantage till we left him far behind us; and by this experience we came to know the nature and quality of that beast, whose greatnesse of body is no hinderance to run forward as swift as a Mule; but otherwise, as the Elephant once laid down is troubled to get up, so this monster is heavy and stiffe, and therefore much troubled to turne and wind about his body. We praised God who had that day delivered us, and riding for a while by the side of the lake, we were watchful that we might not fall again into the like danger. But the greatnesse of this lake of Granada may from hence be knowne, in that the second and third day of our journey, being at least threescore miles from whence we set out, we now and then found our way lying by it. After that wee had wholly lost the sight of it, we began to enter into rough and craggy wayes, declining more to the South then to the North sea. And in all the rest of our journey to Carthago, we observed nothing worth committing to posterity, but onely mighty woods and trees on the South sea side, very fit for to make strong ships, and many mountaines and desert places, where we lay sometimes two nights together, either in woods or open fields, far from any Town or habitation of Indians, yet for our comfort in these so desert places we had stil a guide with us, and found lodges, which by the command of the neerest Justices had been set up for such as travelled that way. We came at last through thousand dangers to the city of Carthago, which we found not to be so poor as in richer places, as Guatemala and Nicaragua it was reported to be. For there we had occasion to inquire after some Merchants for exchange of gold and silver, and wee found that some were very rich, who traded by Land and Sea with Panama, and by Sea with Portobelo, Carthagena, and Havana, and from thence with Spain. This City may consist of foure hundred Families, and is governed by a Spanish Governour; It is a Bishops Sea, and hath in it three Cloisters, two of Fryers, and one of Nuns. Here we began to enquire after that which had brought us through so many Mountaines, Woods and deserts, to wit, after some speedy occasion of shipping our selves for Portobelo or Carthagena; and according to our desires wee understood of one Frigat almost ready to set out from the River called De los Anzuelos, and another from the River Suere; and being well informed that Suere would bee the best place for us to Travaile unto by reason of more provision in the way, more Towns of Indians, and Estancia’s of Spaniards, we resolved within foure dayes after wee had rested in Carthago, to undertake a new journey towards the North Sea. Wee found that Country mountainous in many places, yet here and there some Valleys where was very good corn, Spaniards living in good Farmes, who as well as the Indians bred many hogs; but the Townes of Indians we found much unlike to those which wee had left behind in Nicaragua and Guatemala; and the people in curtesie and civility much differing from them, and of a rude and bold carriage and behaviour towards us; yet they are kept under by the Spaniards, as much as those whom I have formerly spoken of about Guatemala. Wee came in so good a time to the River Suere, that wee stayed there but three dayes in a Spanish Farm neere unto it, and departed.

The Master of the Frigat was exceeding glad of our company, and offered to carry mee for nothing, but for my prayers to God for him, and for a safe passage; which hee hoped would not bee above three or four daies sailing. What hee carried was nothing but some Hony, Hides, Bacon, meal and fowles. The greatest danger he told us of, was the setting out from the River, (which runs in some places with a very strong stream, is shallow and full of rocks in other places) till wee come forth to the maine Sea. Whither we got out safely and had not sailed on above twenty leagues, when we discovered two ships making towards us; our hearts began to quake, and the Master himselfe of the Frigat wee perceived was not without feare, who suspected that they were English, or Holland Ships; wee had no guns nor weapons to fight with, save onely foure or five Muskets and half a dozen Swords; wee thought the wings of our nimble Frigat might be our best comfort, and flying away our chiefest safety. But this comfort soon began to fail us, and our best safety was turned into neer approaching danger; for before wee could flie on five leagues towards Portobel, wee could from our Top Mast easily perceive the two Ships to be Hollanders, and too nimble for our little Vessell, which presently one of them (which being a Man of Warre, was too much and too strong for our weaknesse) fetcht up, and with a thundring Message made us strike Saile. Without any fighting wee durst not but yeeld, hoping for better mercy. But O what sad thoughts did here run to and fro my dejected heart, which was struck down lower then our Saile? How did I sometimes look upon Deaths frighting visage? But if again I would comfort and incourage my selfe against this feare of Death; how then did I begin to see an end of all my hopes of ever more returning to my wished and desired Country? How did I see that my treasure of Pearles, pretious Stones, and peeces of Eight, and golden Pistols, which by singing I had got in twelve yeers space, now within one halfe houre ready to be lost with weeping, and become a sure prey to those who with as much ease as I got them, and with laughing were ready to spoile mee of all that with the sound of Flutes, Waits and Organs I had so long been hording up? Now I saw I must forcedly and fainedly offer up to a Hollander what superstitious, yea also forced and fained offerings of Indians to their Saints of Mixco, Pinola, Amatitlan and Petapa had for a while enriched mee. My further thoughts were soone interrupted by the Hollanders who came abord our Frigat with more speed then wee desired. Though their Swords, Muskets and Pistols did not a little terrifie, yet wee were somewhat comforted, when wee understood who was their chief Captaine and Commander, and hoped for more mercy from him, who had been born and brought up amongst Spaniards, then from the Hollanders, who as they were little bound unto the Spanish Nation for mercy, so did wee expect little from them. The Captain of this Holland Ship which took us was a Mulatto, born and bred in Havana, whose Mother I saw and spoke with afterwards that same yeer, when the Galeons struck into that Port to expect there the rest that were to come from Vera Cruz. This Mulatto for some wrongs which had been offered unto him from some commanding Spaniards in the Havana, ventured himself desperately in a boat out to the Sea, where were some Holland Ships waiting for a prize, and with Gods helpe getting unto them, yeelded himself to their mercy, which hee esteemed farre better then that of his own Country-men, promising to serve them faithfully against his owne Nation, which had most injuriously and wrongfully abused, yea and (as I was afterwards informed) whipped him in the Havana.

This Mulatto proved so true and faithful in his good services unto the Hollanders, that they esteemed much of him, marryed him to one of their Nation, and made him Captain of a Ship under that brave and gallant Hollander whom the Spaniards then so much feared, and named, Pie de Palo, or Woodden Leg. This famous Mulatto it was that with his Sea Souldiers borded our Frigat, in the which hee had found little worth his labour, had it not been for the Indians offerings which I carryed with mee, of which I lost that day the worth of four thousand Patacons or peeces of eight in pearles, and pretious stones, and neer three thousand more in money. The other Spaniards lost some hundreds a peece, which was so rich a prize, that it made the Hollanders stomach loath the rest of our grosse provision of Bacon, Meale and Fowles, and our money tasted sweeter unto them, then the Hony which our Frigat also afforded them. Other things I had (as a Quilt to lie on, some Bookes, and Lamina’s, which are pictures in brasse, and clothes) which I begged of that Noble Captaine the Mulatto, who considering my Orders and calling, gave mee them freely, and wished me to bee patient, saying that hee could doe no otherwise then he did with my mony and Pearles, and using that common Proverbe at Sea, Oy por mi, manana por ti, to day fortune hath been for mee, to morrow it may bee for thee: or to day I have got what to morrow I may lose again. Here I made use also of that common saying, that il gotten goods never thrive, and perceived it was the will of my heavenly Father to take from me what so unlawfully by superstitious and idolatrous Masses, by Offerings unto Idols and Statues of Saints I had got amongst the Indians. I offered in lieu of those former offerings my will unto my Lord Gods will, desiring him to grant mee patience to bear that great losse. I confesse, though it was very crosse to flesh and blood, yet I found an inward spirituall strengthning from above, and to be very true what Paul writes to the Hebrews in the 12 Chapter, and Verse 11. saying, No chastening for the present seemeth to bee joyous, but grievous; neverthelesse afterward it yeeldeth the peaceable fruit of righteousnesse unto them which are exercised thereby: for that very day I found my inward man quiet and peaceable with a full and totall submission unto the holy will of God, which I desired might bee done in earth, in the Sea, and performed and obeyed by me at that present, as it is alwayes done in heaven. And although this was my best and chief comfort, yet from the creature by the Creators permission I had also some comfort left in a few pistols, some single, some double, which I had sowed up in my Quilt (which the Captain restored unto mee, saying it was the bed I lay in) and in the doublet which I had at that present, which mounted to almost a thousand Crownes, and in their searching was not found out. After the Captain and Souldiers had well viewed their prize, they thought of refreshing their stomacks with some of our provision; the good Captaine made a stately dinner in our Frigat, and invited mee unto it, and knowing that I was going towards the Havana, besides many other brindi’s or healths, hee drank one unto his mother, desiring mee to see her, and to remember him unto her, and how that for her sake hee had used mee well and courteously in what hee could; and further at Table hee said that for my sake hee would give us our Frigat that wee might return again to land, and that I might find out from thence some safer way and means to get to Portobelo, & to continue on my journey unto Spain. After dinner I conferred with the Captain alone, and told him that I was no Spaniard, but an English man born, shewing him the Licence which I had from Rome to goe to England, and that therefore I hoped, not being of an enemy nation to the Hollanders, he would restore unto me what goods were mine. But all this was of little consequence with him, who had already taken possession of mine, and all other goods in the ship: he told me, I must suffer with those, amongst whom I was found, and that I might as wel claime all the goods in the ship for mine. I desired him then to carry me along with him to Holland, that from thence I might get to England, which also he refused to doe, telling me that he went about from one place to another, and knew not when he should goe to Holland, and that he was daily ready to fight with any Spanish ship, and if he should fight with the Spaniards whilst I was in his ship, his souldiers in their hot blood might be ready to doe me a mischiefe, thinking I would doe them harm, if in fight they should be taken by the Spaniards. With these his answers I saw there was no hope of getting againe what now was lost, therefore (as before) I commended my selfe againe to Gods providence and protection. The Souldiers and Mariners of the Holland ship, made hast that afternoone, to unlode the goods of our Frigat into their Man of warre, which tooke them up that, and part of the next day, whilst we as prisoners were wafting up and down the sea with them. And whereas we thought our mony had satisfied them enough, and to the full, we found the next day that they had also a stomack to our fowles and Bacon, and wanted our Meale to make them bread, and our hony to sweeten their mouthes, and our Hydes for shooes and bootes; all which they tooke away, leaving me my Quilt, Bookes, and brasse pictures, and to the Master of the frigat some small provision, as much as might carry us to land, which was not far off, and thus they tooke their leaves of us, thanking us for their good entertainment. And we weary of such guests, some praying to God that they might never entertaine the like againe, some cursing them all, and especially the Mulatto to hell, calling him Renegado; some thanking God for their lives which were given them for a prey, we all returned again to Suere from whence we had set out, and going up the river, were almost like to bee cast away, and lose our lives, after we had lost our goods. When we came to land, the Spaniards about the Countrey pitied our case, and helped us with almes gathering a Collection for us. The three Spaniards of my company lost all their mony and most of their best clothes, yet they had reserved some bills of Exchange for money to be taken up at Portobelo; which I wished I had also for what I had lost. For the present we knew not what course to take; we thought of going to Rio de los Anzuelos, but we were informed that certainly the frigats there were either gone, or would be gone before we could get thither; and if they stayed not with the newes of the Hollanders ships at sea, they either already were or would be their prize, as we had been. We resolved therefore with the charitable assistance of the Spaniards about the Countrey to returne again to Carthago, and from thence to take some better directions. In the way we conferred what we had saved, the Spaniards bragged yet of their bills of Exchange, which would yeeld them mony at Carthago, I would not let them know what I had saved, but somewhat I told them I had kept; and we agreed all the way we went to signifie nothing but poverty and misery, that the Indians and Spaniards in the way might pitty and commiserate us, and our great losses. When we came to Carthago we were indeed much pittied, and Collections were made for us; and as it was expected from mee, that I should sing againe at the Altars (who truely could rather have cried to see and consider my many misfortunes and disasters, which I desired might at last by a safe returne to England, prove the trials of the faith I intended to search out) and that I should preach wheresoever I came; so by these two waies, of singing and of hudling over Dominus vobiscum and the rest of the Masse, and by accepting of what Sermons were recommended unto me, I began againe to store my selfe with monies. Yet I knew that in such a poore Countrey as that was, where I was little knowne, I could not possibly get enough to bring me home with credit into England, and therefore the cunning enemy finding me to stand upon my credit, began strongly to tempt me to returne againe to Guatemala (where I doubted not but I should be welcomed and entertained by my friends) and to settle my selfe there, untill I had againe by sacrilegious, base, superstitious, and idolatrous means, and works, made up a new purse to returne with credit home.

But I perceiving that God already had shewed himselfe angry, and justly taken from me, what by unlawfull meanes I had in twelve yeers obtained, bad Satan avaunt, purposing never more to returne to the flesh pots of Egypt, and to goe still home-wards, though in the way I did beg my bread. Yet (lest I might be suspected amongst the Spaniards, and troubled for not exercising my orders and function) I resolved to take what as to a stranger and traveller for preaching or any other exercise might be offered unto me.

Thus with courage resolving to goe on still towards England, I enquired at Carthago which way I might get to Portobelo. But this doore of hope was fast shut up; though my trust in Gods providence was not weakened. In this season, there came to Carthago some two or three hundred Mules unsadled or unloaden with some Spaniards, Indians, and Black-mores, from the parts of Comayagua and Guatemala to convey them to Panama by land, over the mountaines of Veragua there to be sold. This is the yeerly and onely trading by land, which Guatemala, Comayagua, and Nicaragua, hath with Panama over that narrow Isthmus lying between the North, and South sea, which is very dangerous by reason of the craggy waies, rockes, and mountaines, but more especially, by reason of many Heathens, Barbarians and savage people, which as yet are not conquered by the Spaniards, and sometimes do great hurt and mischief, and kill those that with Mules passe through their Countrey, especially if they misdemean themselves, or please them not well. Yet for all these difficulties, I was entertaining a thought to go along with those Mules and Spaniards, which were now on their way by land to Panama. The three Spaniards were halfe of the same mind; but the providence of God who better ordereth and disposeth mans affaires then he himselfe, disappointed these our thoughts for our good and safety, as after we were informed; for we heard for certain at Nicoya, that some of those Mules and Spaniards were killed by the Barbarians and savage Indians, amongst whom my life might have been lost, if I had attempted that hard and dangerous journey; from which many well wishers at Carthago did disswade me, both for the danger of the Indians, and for the difficulties of the waies and mountaines, which they told me the weakenesse of my body would never indure. After we had wholly desisted from this Land journey, the best counsell, that we had from some Merchants our friends, was to try whether Mar del Zur, or the South sea, would favour our designe and journey, better then the Mar del Norte, or the North sea had done; who wished us to goe to Nicoya, and from thence to Chira, and to the Golfo de Salinas, where they doubted not but we should find shipping to Panama. Wee were willing to follow any good advise and counsell; yet we knew that this was the last shift which we could make, and the non plus ultra of our hopes, and that if here we should be disappointed, we could expect no other way ever to get to Panama, except we should venture our lives most desperately over the mountaines of Veragua, and by land without any guide or company through the Countrey of the Barbarians, (who before had slaine some Spaniards passing that way) or else should returne againe, all the way that we had come, to Realejo, where our hopes might be frustrated, and peradventure no shipping found for Panama, without a yeers waiting for it.

We resolved therefore to follow this our friends counsell, and to goe yet to Nicoya, and from thence to Golfo de Salinas, where laughing, I told the three Spaniards of my company, that if we were disappointed, we would like Hercules set up a Pillar to eternize our fame, with our names, and this inscription upon it, Non plus Ultra, for that beyond it there was no other Port, Haven, or place, to take shipping to Panama; neither could any man have done more (nor ever did any English man in that Countrey doe more then my selfe) then wee had done, but especially my selfe, who from Mexico had thus travelled by land to Nicoya at lead six hundred leagues, or eighteen hundred English miles straight from North to South, besides what I had travelled from Vera Cruz to Mexico, and from Guatemala to Vera Paz, and to Puerto de Cavallos, or Golfo dulce, and from thence to Truxillo, and from thence back againe to Guatemala, which was at least thirteen or fourteen hundred English miles more, which I thought to eternize upon a pillar at Nicoya. But what there was not erected, I hope here shall be eternized, and that this my true and faithfull History shall bee a Monument of three thousand, and three hundred miles travelled by an English man, within the main land of America, besides other sea navigations to Panama, from Portobel to Carthagena, and from thence unto the Havana. The way which we travelled from Carthago to Nicoya was very mountainous, hard, & unpleasant, for we met with few Estancia’s of Spaniards, and few Indian Towns, and those very poor, smal, and all of dejected and wretched people. Yet Nicoya is a pretty Towne, and head of a Spanish government, where wee found one Justo de Salazar, Alcalde Maior, who entertained us very well, and provided lodgings for us for the time that wee should abide there, and comforted us with hopeful words, that though for the present there was no ship or frigat in the Golfe of Salinas, yet he doubted not, but very shortly one would come from Panama thither, for Salt and other commodities, as yeerly they were wont. The time of the yeer when we came thither, was a fit time for me to get againe some monies after my great losse; for it was in Lent which is the Friers chiefest harvest, who (as I have before observed) then by Confessions and by giving the Communion get many money offerings.

The time, and the Franciscan Frier who had the Pastorship and charge of that Towne, were both very commodious unto me, who could not refuse as long as I stayed there to exercise my function, lest I should bring a just cause of suspition and aspersion upon my selfe. The Frier of the Towne was a Portingal, who about three weeks before my comming thither had had a very great bickering and strife with Justo de Salazar the Alcalde Maior, for defending the Indians, whom Salazar did grievously oppresse, employing them in his, and his wifes service as slaves, and not paying them what for the sweat of their browes was due unto them, and commanding them to be from their home and from their wives, and from their Church upon the Sabbath, working for him as well that day as any other. Which the Frier not enduring, charged them in the pulpit, not to obey any such unlawfull commands from their Alcalde Maior. But Justo de Salazar (who had been trained up in warres and fighting, and had served formerly in the Castle of Milan) thought it a great disparagement unto him, now to be curbed by a Frier, and by such a one to be interrupted in his government of the Indians, and in the waies of his owne lucre and gaine. Therefore after many bitter words and defiances, which had passed between him and the Frier, he came one day resolutely to the Friers house with his sword drawne; and certainly had not the Frier been assisted by some of the Indians, he had killed him. The Frier being as hot as he, and standing upon his calling, Orders, and Preisthood, presuming that hee durst not touch him violently, lest his priviledge should bring an excommunication upon the striker and offendour, would not flie from him, but dared him boldly; which was a strong provocation to Salazars heat and passion, and caused him to lift up his sword, and aime his blow and stroke at the Frier, which fell so unhappily that with it he strucke of two of the Friers fingers, and had undoubtedly seconded another blow more hurtfull and dangerous to the Frier, had not the Indians interposed themselves, and shut up their Preist into his chamber. Justo was for this action excommunicated, yet for that he was a man of high authority, he soone got off his excommunication from the Bishop of Costarica and sent his complaint to the Chancery of Guatemala against the Frier, where with friends and mony he doubted not but to overcome the Mendicant Preist, as it happened after; for (as I was informed) hee caused the Frier to be sent for up to the Court, and there prevailed so much against him, that he got him to be removed from Nicoya. In this season the Frier kept his house and chamber, and would by no means goe out to the Church, either to say Masse, or to preach, or hear Confessions, (all which that time of the yeer did require of him) but had got one to helpe him; who alone not being able to performe so great a charge of many hundred Indians, Spaniards, Black-mores, and Mulatto’s, who from the Countrey without, and from the Towne within expected to have their Confessions heard, their sins absolved, the word preached, and the Communion to be given them; hearing of my comming desired me to assist and helpe him, and that for my paines I should have my meat and drinke at his table, and a Crowne daily for every Masse, and whatsoever else the people should voluntarily offer, besides the Sermons, which should be well rewarded unto me. I staied in this Towne from the second week of Lent untill Easter weeke, where what with three Sermons at ten Crownes a peece, what with my daily stipend and many other offerings, I got about an hundred and fifty Crownes.

The weeke before Easter newes came of a frigat from Panama to Golfo de Salinas, which much comforted us, who already began to mistrust the delay. The Master of the frigat came to Nicoya, which is as Court thereabouts; and with him the three Spaniards and my selfe agreed for our passage to Panama. About Chira, Golfo de Salinas, and Nicoya, there are some farmes of Spaniards, few and very small Indian Townes, who are all like slaves employed by the Alcalde Maior, to make him a kind of thred called Pita, which is a very rich Commodity in Spain, especially of that colour wherewith it is dyed in these parts of Nicoya, which is a purple colour; for the which the Indians are here much charged to work about the Sea shore, and there to finde out certain shels, wherewith they make this purple dye.

There are also shels for other colours, which are not knowne to be so plentifully in any other place as here. About Chira and Golfo de Salinas the chief commodities are Salt, Hony, Maiz, some Wheat and Fowles, which every yeer they send by some few Frigats to Panama, which from thence come on purpose to fetch them with this purple coloured thred, or Pita, which I have spoken of. The Frigat which came when I was there, was soon laden with these Commodities, and with it we set out hoping to have been at Panama within five or six dayes. But as often before we had been crossed, so likewise in this short passage wee were striving with the Wind, Sea, and Corrientes, as they are called (which are swift streames as of a River) foure full weekes. After the first day that wee set out, wee were driven with a wind and storme towards Peru, till wee came under the very Æquinoctiall line, where what with excessive heat, what with mighty stormes, we utterly despaired of life. But after one week that we had thus run towards death, it pleased God in whom and by whom all creatures live, move, and have their being, to comfort us againe with hopes of life, sending us a prosperous gale, which drove us out of that Æquinoctiall heat, and stormy Sea, towards the Islands of Perlas and Puerta de Chame, lying on the South side of the Mountaines of Veragua, from whence wee hoped within two dayes at the most, to be at rest and Anchor at Panama. But yet these our hopes were frustrated, for there our wind was calmed, and we fell upon those strong Corrientes or streams, which drave us back in the night for the space of almost a fortnight as much as wee had sailed in the day. Had not God againe been merciful here unto us, we had certainly perished in this our striving with the stream; for although wee wanted not provision of food, yet our drink failed us so, that for foure dayes wee tasted neither drop of wine or water, or any thing that might quench our thirst, save onely a little hony which wee found did cause more thirst in us, which made mee and some others to drink our own Urine, and to refresh our mouthes with peeces of lead bullets, which did for a while refresh, but would not long have sufficed Nature, had not Gods good Providence sent us such a wind which in the day drave us quite off from those Corrientes. Our first thoughts were then to strike either to the Continent, or some Island of many which were about us to seek for water, finding our bodies weak and languishing; which the Captaine of the Ship would by no meanes yeeld unto, assuring us that that day hee would land us at Panama; but wee not being able to saile on without drink, unlesse wee should yeeld to have our dead and not live bodies landed where hee promised, thought it no good purchase though we might buy all Panama with our lives, which wee judged could not hold out another day; and seeing that the wind began to slacken, we all required him to strike into some Island for water; which he stubbornly refused and denyed to doe; whereupon the three Spaniards and some of the Mariners mutinied against him with drawn Swords, threatning to kill him if he betooke not himselfe presently to some Island. The good Master thought it bad sport to see Swords at his breast, and so commanded his Ship to bee turned to two or three Islands, which were not above two or three houres sail from us. When we drew nigh unto them, wee cast our Anchor, and our Cock-boat, and happy was hee that could first cast himself into it to be rowed to land to fill his belly with water. The first Island wee landed upon, was on that side unhabitable, where wee spent much time running to and fro, over heating our selves and increasing our thirst; thus whilst one ran one way, and another tryed another to find out some fountain, our hopes being frustrated and I lost in the Wood, and my shooes torne from my feet, with stony rocks, and many thornes and bushes in other places; my company betook themselves to the Cock-boat to try another Island, leaving mee alone, and lost in the Wood; out of which at last when I came, and found the Cock-boat gone from the shore, I began to consider myself a dead man, thinking that they had found water and were gone to Ship, and not finding mee would hoise up their sailes for Panama. Thus being dejected I cryed out to the Ship, which I perceived could not possibly hear my weak voyce, and running up and down the Rocks to see if I could discover the Cock-boat, I perceived it was not with the Ship, and espied it at the next Island. With this I began to hope better things of them that they would call for mee when they had gotten water; so I came down from the Rocks to the plain shore, where I found a shade of trees and amongst them some berries (which might have been poison, for I knew them not) wherewith I refreshed my mouth for a while; but my body so burned that I thought there with heat, weaknesse and faintnesse I should have expired and given up the Ghost. I thought by stripping my selfe naked and going into the Sea unto my neck, I might thus refresh my body, which I did, and comming out againe into the shade, I fell into a deep sleep, in so much that the Cock-boat comming for mee, and the company hollowing unto mee, I awaked not, which made them feare that I was dead or lost; till landing, one searched for mee one way, and another another, and so they found me, who might have been a prey to some wild Beast, or slept till the Frigat had gone away, and so have perished in a barren and unhabitable Island. When they awaked mee, I was glad to see my good company, and the first thing I enquired for, was, if they had got any water; they bad mee bee of good cheere and arise, for they had water enough, and Oranges and Lemmons from another Island, where they met with Spaniards that did inhabit it. I made haste with them to the Boat, and no sooner was I entred into it, but they gave mee to drink as much as I would. The water was warme and unsetled, for they could not take it up so but that they tooke of the gravell and bottome of the Fountain, which made it look very muddy; yet for all this (as though my life had depended upon it) I drank up a whole pot of it; which no sooner had I dranke, but such was the weaknesse of my stomack that it presently cast it up againe not being able to beare it. With this they wished me to eat an Orange or a Lemmon; but them also did my stomack reject; so to our Frigat wee went, and in the way I fainted so that the company verily thought I would die, before wee got aboard. When wee came thither I called againe for water, which was no sooner downe my stomack, but presently up again; they had mee to bed with a burning Feaver upon mee; where I lay that night expecting nothing but death, and that the Sea should bee my grave.

The Master of the Ship seeing the wind was turned, began to bee much troubled, and feared that with that wind he should never get to Panama. He resolved to venture upon a way, which never before hee had tryed; which was, to get between the two Islands which wee had searched for water, knowing that the wind, which on this side was contrary, on the other side of the Islands would bee favourable unto him. Thus towards the Evening hee tooke up Anchor and hoised up his sailes, and resolved to passe his Frigat between the two Islands; which how dangerous and desperate an attempt it was, the event witnessed. I lay in this season (as I may truely say) upon my death bed, not regarding which way the Master of the Ship, or fortune carried mee, so that the mercy of the Lord carryed my soule to heaven. No sooner had the Frigat steered her course between the narrow passage of the two Islands, when being carryed with the stream too much to the one side of the land it ran upon a Rock; so that the very stern was lifted up, and almost call out of the Pilots hands, who cryed out not to God, but unto the Virgin Mary saying, Ayudad nos Virgen Santissima, que si no aqui nos perecemos, help us, O most holy Virgin, for if not, here we perish. This, and the outcry of all that were in the Frigat gave unto mee an Alarm of death; from the which yet it pleased God by the meanes and diligence of the painefull Mariners to deliver mee and all the Company, for with much adoe most part of that night they haled from the Cock-boat the Frigat off from the Rock, after the streame had made it three severall times to strike upon it. After a very troublesome night in the morning wee got our little Ship out of all danger and from between the two Islands on the other side of them, where wee sailed prosperously towards Panama. That morning my stomack recovered some of its lost strength, and I began to eat and to drink, and to walk about, rejoycing much to see those pleasant Islands which wee sailed by. In the Evening wee got to Puerto de Perico; where wee cast Anchor, expecting to bee searched in the morning; but that night (the Master of our Ship having gone to shore) the wind turned and blew so strong that wee lost our Anchor, and and were driven back almost to la Pacheque and feared wee should bee carried out into the Ocean againe so farre that we should with great difficulty get to Panama. But that God whom the Sea and winds doe obey, turned againe that contrary wind into a prosperous gale, wherewith wee came once more unto Perico; and being searched wee went on with full sail to Panama; Being neere the Port and without an Anchor in our Ship the wind once more blew us back and had not the Ship Master sent us an Anchor, we had gon againe to Pacheque or further. But with that anchor we stayed all that night at Perico, wondring among our selves that so many crosses should befall us, which made some say that we were bewitched; others, that certainly there was amongst us some excommunicated person, whom they said if they knew of, they would hurle him over bord. Whilst they were in this discourse, the wind turned yet againe, and we levying our anchor went on to Panama, whither it pleased God that time safely to conduct us in. I being now well strengthened made no stay in that frigat, which I thought would have been my last abiding place in this world, but went to land, and betooke my selfe to the Cloister of the Dominicans, where I stayed almost fifteen daies viewing and reviewing that City; which is governed like Guatemala by a President and six Judges, and a Court of Chancery, and is a Bishops sea. It hath more strength towards the South sea, then any other Port which on that side I had seen, and some Ordnances planted for the defence of it; but the houses are of the least strength of any place that I had entred in; for lime and stone is hard to come by, and therefore for that reason, and for the great heat there, most of the houses are built of timber and bords; the Presidents house, nay the best Church walls are but bords, which serve for stone and bricke, and for tiles to cover the top. The heat is so extraordinary that a linnen cut doublet, with some slight stuffe or taffetie breeches is the common cloathing of the inhabitants. Fish, fruits and herbage for sallets is more plentifull there then flesh; the coole water of the Coco is the womens best drinke, though Chocolatte also, and much wine from Peru be very abounding. The Spaniards are in this City much given to sinne, loosenesse and venery especially, who make the Black-mores, (who are many, rich, and gallant) the chiefe objects of their lust. It is held to be one of the richest places in all America, having by land and by the river Chiagre commerce with the North sea, and by the South, trading with all Peru, East-India’s, Mexico, and Honduras. Thither is brought the chiefe treasure of Peru in two or three great ships, which lie at anchor at Puerto de Perico some three leagues from the City; for the great ebbing of the sea at that place especially suffereth not any great vessell to come neerer, where daily the sea ebbs and falls away from the City two or three miles, leaving a mud, which is thought to cause much unhealthinesse in that place, being seconded with many other muddy and moorish places about the Town. It consisteth of some five thousand inhabitants, and maintaineth at least eight Cloisters of Nuns and Friers. I feared much the heats, and therefore made as much haste out of it as I could. I had my choice of company by land and water to Portobelo. But considering the hardnesse of the mountaines by land, I resolved to goe by the river Chiagre; and so at midnight I set out from Panama to Venta de Cruzes, which is ten or twelve leagues from it. The way is thither very plaine for the most part, and pleasant in the morning and evening.

Before ten of the clock we got to Venta de Cruzes, where live none but Mulatto’s and Black-mores, who belong unto the flat boates that carry the merchandize to Portobel. There I had very good entertainment by that people, who desired me to preach unto them the next Sabbath day, and gave me twenty Crownes for a Sermon, and procession. After five daies of my abode there, the boats set out, which were much stopped in their passage downe the river; for in some places we found the water very low, so that the boats ran upon the gravell; from whence with poles and the strength of the Black-mores they were to be lifted off againe; sometimes again we met with such streams that carried us with the swiftnesse of an arrow downe under trees and boughes by the river side, which sometimes also stopped us till we had cut downe great branches of trees. Had not it pleased God to send us after the first weeke plentifull raine, which made the water run downe from the mountaines and fill the river (which otherwise of it selfe is very shallow) we might have had a tedious and longer passage; but after twelve daies we got to the sea, and at the point landed at the Castle to refresh our selves for halfe a day. Certainly the Spaniards trust to the streames and shallownesse of that river, which they thinke will keep off any forain nation, from attempting to come up to Venta de Cruzes and from thence to Panama, or else they would strengthen more and fortifie that Castle, which in my time wanted great reparations, and was ready to fall downe to the ground. The Governour of the Castle was a notable wine-bibber, who plyed us with that liquor the time that we stayed there, and wanting a Chaplain for himselfe, and Souldiers, would faine have had me stayed with him; but greater matters called me further, and so I tooke my leave of him, who gave us some dainties of fresh meat, fish, and conserves, and so dismissed us. We got out to the open sea, discovering first the Escudo de Veragua, and keeping somewhat close unto the land we went on rowing towards Portobel, till the evening which was Saturday night; then we cast anchor behind a little Island, resolving in the morning to enter in Portobel. The Black-mores all that night kept watch for fear of Hollanders, whom they said did often lie in wait thereabouts for the boats of Chiagre; but we passed the night safely, and next morning got to Portobelo, whose haven we observed to be very strong with two Castles at the mouth and constant watch within them, and another called St. Miguel further in the Port.

When I came into the Haven I was sorry to see that as yet the Galeons were not come from Spaine, knowing that the longer I stayed in that place, greater would be my charges. Yet I comforted my selfe that the time of the yeer was come, and that they could not long delay their coming. My first thoughts were of taking up a lodging, which at that time were plentifull and cheape, nay some were offered me for nothing with this caveat, that when the Galeons did come, I must either leave them, or pay a dear rate for them. A kind Gentleman, who was the Kings Treasurer, falling in discourse with me promised to helpe me, that I might be cheaply lodged even when the ships came, and lodgings were at the highest rate. Hee, interposing his authority, went with me to seeke one, which at the time of the fleets being there, might continue to be mine. It was no bigger then would containe a bed, a table, and a stoole or two, with roome enough besides to open and shut the doore, and they demanded of me for it during the foresaid time of the Fleet, sixcore Crownes, which commonly is a fortnight. For the Towne being little, and the Souldiers, that come with the Galeons for their defence at least four or five thousand; besides Merchants from Peru, from Spain and many other places to buy and sell, is the cause that every roome, though never so small be dear; and sometimes all the lodgings in the Towne are few enough for so many people, which at that time doe meet at Portobel. I knew a Merchant who gave a thousand Crownes for a shop of reasonable bignesse, to sell his wares and commodities that yeer that I was there, for fifteen daies only, which the Fleet continued to be in that Haven. I thought it much for me to give the sixcore Crownes which were demanded of me for a room, which was but as a mouse hole, and began to be troubled, and told the Kings Treasurer that I had been lately robbed at sea, and was not able to give so much, and bee besides at charges for my diet, which I feared would prove as much more. But not a farthing would be abated of what was asked; whereupon the good Treasurer pitying me, offered to the man of the house to pay him threescore Crowns of it, if so be that I was able to pay the rest, which I must doe, or else lie without in the street. Yet till the Fleet did come I would not enter into this deare hole, but accepted of another faire lodging which was offered me for nothing. Whilest I thus expected the Fleets coming, some mony and offerings I got for Masses, and for two Sermons which I preached at fifteen Crownes a peece. I visited the Castles, which indeed seemed unto me to be very strong; but what most I wondred at was to see the requa’s of Mules which came thither from Panama, laden with wedges of silver; in one day I told two hundred Mules laden with nothing else, which were unladen in the publicke Market place, so that there the heapes of silver wedges lay like heaps of stones in the street, without any feare or suspition of being lost. Within ten daies the fleet came, consisting of eight Galeons and ten Merchant ships, which forced me to run to my hole. It was a wonder then to see the multitude of people in those streets which the weeke before had been empty.

Then began the price of all things to rise, a fowl to be worth twelve Rials, which in the main land within I had often bought for one; a pound of beefe then was worth two Rialls, whereas I had had in other places thirteen pound for half a Riall, and so of all other food and provision, which was so excessive dear, that I knew not how to live but by fish and Tortoises, which there are very many, and though somewhat deare, yet were the cheapest meat that I could eate. It was worth seeing how Merchants sold their commodities, not by the Ell or yard, but by the piece and weight, not paying in coined peeces of mony, but in wedges which were weighed and taken for commodities. This lasted but fifteen dayes, whilst the Galeons were lading with wedges of silver and nothing else; so that for those fifteen daies, I dare boldly say and avouch, that in the world there is no greater Fair then that of Portobel, between the Spanish Merchants and those of Peru, Panama, and other parts thereabouts.

Whilest this traffique was, it happened unto me, that which I have formerly testified in my Recantation Sermon at Pauls Church, which if by that meanes it have not come unto the knowledge of many, I desire again to record it in this my History, that to all England it may be published; which was, that one day saying Masse in the chiefe Church, after the Consecration of the bread, being with my eyes shut at that mentall prayer, which the Church of Rome calleth the Memento for their dead, there came from behind the Altar a mouse, which running about, came to the very bread or wafer God of the Papists, and taking it in his mouth ran away with it, not being perceived by any of the people who were at Masse, for that the Altar was high by reason of the steps going up to it, and the people farre beneath. But as soone as I opened my eyes to goe on with my Masse, and perceived my God stollen away, I looked about the Altar, and saw the mouse running away with it; which on a suddain did so stupifie me, that I knew not well what to doe or say, and calling my wits together, I thought that if I should take no notice of the mischance, and any body else in the Church should, I might justly be questioned by the Inquisition; but if I should call to the people to look for the Sacrament, then I might bee but chid and rebuked for my carelessenesse; which of the two I thought would be more easily borne, then the rigour of the Inquisition. Whereupon not knowing what the people had seen, I turned my selfe unto them, and called them unto the Altar, and told them plainely, that whilest I was in my Memento prayers and meditations, a mouse had carried away the Sacrament, and that I knew not what to doe, unlesse they would helpe me to find it out again. The people called a Priest that was at hand, who presently brought in more of his Coat; and as if their God by this had been eaten up they presently prepared themselves to find out the thief, as if they would eat up the mouse that had so assaulted and abused their God; they lighted candles and torches to find out the Malefactour in his secret and hidden places of the wall; and after much searching and enquiry for the sacrilegious beast, they found at last in a hole of the wall the Sacrament halfe eaten up; which with great joy they took out, and as if the Arke had been brought again from the Philistines to the Israelites, so they rejoyced for their new found God, whom with many people now resorted to the Church, with many lights of candles and Torches, with joyfull and solemne musicke they carried about the Church in procession. My selfe was present upon my knees, shaking and quivering for what might be done unto mee, and expecting my doome and judgement; and as the Sacrament passed by me, I observed in it the markes and signes of the teeth of the mouse, as they are to bee seen in a piece of cheese gnawne and eaten by it.

This struck mee with such horrour, that I cared not at that present whether I had been torne in a thousand peices for denying publickely that Mouse-eaten God, I called to my best memory all Philosophy concerning substance and accidents, and resolved within my selfe that what I saw gnawne, was not an accident, but some reall substance eaten and devoured by that vermin, which certainly was fed and nourished by what it had eaten, and Philosophy well teacheth; substantia Cibi (non accidentis) convertitur in substantiam alii, the substance (not the accident,) of the food or meat is converted, and turned into the substance of the thing fed by it and alimented; Now here I knew that this Mouse had fed upon some substance, or else how could the markes of the teeth so plainely appeare? But no Papist will bee willing to answer that it fed upon the substance of Christs Body, ergo by good consequence it followes that it fed upon the substance of bread; and so Transubstantiation here in my judgement was confuted by a Mouse; which meane and base creature God chose to convince mee of my former errours, and made mee now resolve upon what many yeeres before I had doubted, that certainly the point of Transubstantiation taught by the Church of Rome is most damnable and erroneous; for besides, what before I have observed, it contradicteth that Philosophicall Axiome, teaching that duo contradictoria non possunt simul & semel de eodem verificari, two contradictories cannot at once and at the self same time be said, and verified of the same thing; but here it was so; for here in Romes Judgement and opinion Christs body was gnawne and eaten, and at the same time the same body in another place and upon another Altar in the hands of another Preist was not eaten and gnawne, Therefore here are two contradictories verified of the same body of Christ: to wit, it was eaten and gnawne, and it was not eaten and gnawne. These impressions at that time were so great in me, that I resolved within my selfe, that bread really and truely was eaten upon that Altar, and by no meanes Christs glorious body which is in heaven, and cannot be upon earth, subject to the hunger or violence of a creature. Here againe I desired with godly David, that I might have the wings of a Dove to flie into my Country of England, and there be satisfied upon this point, and be at rest of Conscience. Here I resolved that if I had been questioned for my carelessenesse, or for my contempt of that Romish Sacrament (which I thought would be the judgement of the Spaniards, who knew me to be an English man borne) that I would sacrifice willingly my life for the Protestant truth, which as yet I had been no otherwise taught, but by that Spirit which (as Solomon well observeth) in a man is the candle of the Lord. I conceived here that this was some comfort to my soule, which my good God would afford mee in the way of my travelling to Canaan, that I might more willingly beare whatsoever crosses yet might befall mee in my way and Journey to England. The event of this accident was not any trouble that fell upon mee for it; for indeed the Spaniards attributed it unto the carelessnesse of him, who had care of the Altars in the Church, and not to any contempt in mee to the Sacrament. The part of the wafer that was left after the Mouse had filled her belly, was laid up after the Solemne Procession about the Church, in a Tabernacle for that purpose, that afterwards it might be eaten up by some hungry Preist. And because such a high contempt had beene offered by a contemptible Vermin to their Bread God, it was commanded through Portabel that day, that all the people should humble themselves and mourn, and fast with bread and water onely. Although I saw I was not questioned for the case, yet I feared where there were so many Souldiers, and forain people, that by some or other I might bee mischiefed out of their blind zeale, wherefore I thought it not amisse for a day or two to keepe within my lodging. Don Carlos de Ybarra, who was the Admirall of that Fleet, made great haste to bee gone; which made the Merchants buy and sell apace, and lade the ships with silver wedges; whereof I was glad, for the more they laded, the lesse I unladed my purse with buying deare provision, and sooner I hoped to be out of that unhealthy place, which of it selfe is very hot, and subject to breed Feavers, nay death, if the feet bee not preserved from wetting when it raineth; but especially when the Fleet is there, it is an open grave ready to swallow in part of that numerous people, which at that time resort unto it, as was seene the yeare that I was there when about five hundred of the Souldiers, Merchants, and Mariners, what with Feavers, what with the Flux caused by too much eating of fruit and drinking of water, what with other disorders lost their lives, finding it to bee to them not Porto bello, but Porto malo. And this is usuall every yeare; and therefore for the reliefe and comfort of those that come sick from Sea, or sicken there, a great and rich Hospitall is in the Towne, with many Fryers called De la Capacha, or by others De Juan de Dios, whose calling and profession is onely to cure, and attend upon the sick, and to beare the dead unto their graves. The Admirall fearing the great sicknesse that yeare, made haste to be gone, not fearing the report that was of some three or four Holland or English ships abroad at Sea, waiting (as it was supposed) for some good prize out of that great and rich Fleet. This news made mee beginne to feare, and to thinke of securing my selfe in one of the best and strongest Galeons; but when I came to treat of my passage in one of them, I found that I could not bee carryed in any under three hundred Crownes, which was more then my purse was able to afford. With this I thought to addresse my self to some Master of a Merchants ship, though I knew I could not bee so safe and secure in any of them, as in a Galeon well manned and fortified with Souldiers, and Guns of Brasse; yet I hoped in God, who is a strong refuge to them that feare him, and in this occasion provided for mee, a cheap and sure passage. For meeting one day with my friend the Treasurer, hee againe pitying me as a stranger and lately robbed, commended me to the Master of a Merchant Ship, called St. Sebastian, whom hee knew was desirous to carry a Chaplaine with him at his own Table. I no sooner addressed my selfe unto him, using the name and favour of his and my friend the Treasurer, but presently I found him willing to accept of my company, promising to carry me for nothing, and to board mee at his own Table, onely for my prayers to God for him and his; offering farther to give mee some satisfaction for whatsoever Sermons I should preach in his Ship. I blessed God, acknowledging in this also his Providence, who in all occasions furthered my returne to England. The Ships being laden wee set forth towards Carthagena, and the second day of our sayling wee discovered foure Ships which made the Merchant Ships afraid, and to keepe close to the Galeons, trusting to their strength more then their own. The Ship I was in, was swift and nimble under sail, and kept still under the wings either of the Admirall or of some other of the best Galeons; but all the other Merchants Ships were not so, but some slowly came on behind, whereof two were carryed away by the Hollanders in the night, before ever wee could get to Carthagena.

The greatest feare that I perceived possessed the Spaniards in this Voyage, was about the Island of Providence, called by them Sta Catalina, or St. Catharine, from whence they feared lest some English Ships should come out against them with great strength. They cursed the English in it, and called the Island, the den of theeves and Pirates, wishing that their King of Spain would take some course with it; or else, that it would prove very prejudiciall to the Spaniards, lying neer the mouth of the Desaguadero, and so endangering the Frigats of Granada, and standing between Portobel and Carthagena, and so threatning the Galeons, and their Kings yeerely and mighty treasure.

Thus with bitter invectives against the English and the Island of Providence we sayled on to Carthagena, where againe wee met with the foure Ships, which before had followed us and had taken away two of our Ships, and now at our entering into that Port, threatned to carry away more of our company; which they might have done, if they would have ventured to have come upon the Ship wherein I went, which at the turning about the land point to get into the Haven, ran upon the shore, which if it had been rocky, as it was sandy and gravelly, had certainly there beene cast away by keeping too neere unto the land, from which danger by the care of the Mariners, and their active paines we were safely delivered, as also from the ships which followed us as far as they durst for fear of the Cannon shot of the Castle; and thus we entered into the Haven of Carthagena, and stayed there for the space of eight or ten dayes; where I met with some of my Country men their Prisoners, who had been taken at Sea by the Spaniards, and belonged unto the Island of Providence; among whom was the Renowned Captaine Rouse, and about a dozen more, with whom I was glad to meet, but durst not shew them too much countenance, for feare of being suspected; yet I soon got the good will of some of them, who, being destined to Spain, were very desirous to goe in the ship, wherein I went; which desire of theirs I furthered, and was suiter unto my Captaine to carry foure of them in his ship, which for my sake he willingly yeelded unto; amongst these was one Edward Layfield, (who afterwards setting out of St. Lucar for England, was taken Captive by the Turkes, and since from Turkey writ into England unto mee to helpe to release him) with whom both at Carthagena, and in the way in the ship I had great discourse concerning points of Religion, and by him came to know some things professed in England, which my conscience (whilst I lived in America) much inclined unto. I was much taken with his company, and found him very officious unto mee, whose kindnesse I requited by speaking for him in the ship to the Masters and Mariners, who otherwise were ready and forward to abuse him and the rest of the English company as prisoners and slaves.

At Carthagena wee heard a report of threescore saile of ships of Hollanders waiting for the Galeons, which struck no little feare into the Spaniards; who called a councell whether our Fleet should winter there, or goe on to Spain. It proved to be but a false report of the Inhabitants of Carthagena, who for their own ends and lucre would willingly have had the ships and Galeons to have stayed there; but Don Carlos de Ybarra replyed, that hee feared not a hundred saile of Hollanders, and therefore would goe on to Spain, hoping to carry thither safely the Kings treasure. Which hee performed and in eight dayes arrived at Havana, where we stayed eight dayes longer, expecting the Fleet from Vera Cruz. In which time I viewed wel that strong Castle manned with the twelve Guns, called the twelve Apostles, which would doe little hurt to an Army by land, or marching from the River of Matansos. I visited here the mother of that Mulatto, who had taken away all my meanes at Sea; and spent much time in comforting my poore Country men the prisoners; but especially that gallant Captaine Rouse, who came unto mee to complaine of some affronts which had been offered unto him by Spaniards, in the ship wherein he came; which hee not being able to put up, though a Prisoner unto them desired to question in the field, challenging his proud contemners to meet him if they durst in any place of the Havana, (a brave courage in a dejected and Imprisoned English man to challenge a Spaniard in his Country, a Cock upon his own dunghill,) which as soone as I understood by Edward Layfield, I desired to take up, fearing that many would fall upon him cowardly and mince him small in peices. I sent for him to the Cloister where I lay, and there had conference with him, prevailing so far as that I made him desist from his thoughts of going into the field, and shewing his manhood in such a time and place, where his low condition of a Prisoner might well excuse him. The rest of my poore country men were here much discouraged and in some want; whom I relieved (especially Layfield) and incouraged as much as I was able. I chanced here to have occasion to take a little physick before I went again to Sea, & thereby I learned what before I never knew, to wit, the dyet which on such a day the best Physitians of Havana prescribe unto their patients. Whereas after the working of my physick, I expected some peece of Mutton, or a fowl, or some other nourishing meat, my Physitian left order that I should have a peece of rosted Porke, which seeming unto mee a Dyet contrary to that daies extremity, I began to refuse it, alleadging to my Doctor the contrary course of all Nations, the naturall quality of that meat to open the body. To which he replyed, that what Porke might worke upon mans body in other Nations, it worked not there, but the contrary; and so he wished me to feed upon what hee had prescribed, assuring mee that it would doe mee no hurt. Now as Hogs flesh there is held to be so nourishing, so likewise no other meat is more then it, and Tortoises, wherewith all the ships make their provision for Spain. The Tortoises they cut out in long thin slices, as I have noted before of the Tassajos, and dry it in the wind after they have well salted it, and so it serveth the Mariners, in all their voyage to Spain, which they eate boyled with a little garlicke, and I have heard them say that to them it tasted as well as any Veale. They also take into their ships some fowles for the Masters and Captaines tables, and live hogs, which would seem to be enough to breed some infection in the ship, had they not care to wash often the place where such unclean beasts lie. In the ship where I was passenger, was killed every weeke one for the Masters, Pilots and passengers table. Thus all things being made ready for the ships provision to Spain, and the Merchants goods and the Kings Revenue being shipped in nine dayes that we abode there; we now wanted nothing, but onely the company of the Fleet from Vera Cruz, which should have met us there upon the eight day of September. But Don Carlos de Ybarra, seeing it stayed longer then the time appointed, and fearing the weather, & the New Moon of that moneth which commonly proveth dangerous in the Golf of Bahama, resolved to stay no longer, but to set out to Spain. On a Sabbath day therefore in the morning we hoised sails, (being in all seven and twenty ships with those which had met with us there from Honduras and the Islands), and one by one we sailed out of Havana to the main Sea, where we that day wafted about for a good wind, and also waiting for our guide, which was not yet come out of the Havana to guide us through the Gulfe of Bahama. But that night wee wished our selves againe in the Havana, thinking that we were compassed about with a strong Fleet of Hollanders; many ships came amongst us, which made us provide for a fight in the morning. A Councell of War was called, and all that night watch was kept, the Guns prepared, red Clothes hung round the ships, Orders sent about both to the Galeons and to the Merchants ships what posture and place to bee in. That which I was in, was to attend the Admirall, which I hoped would bee a strong defence unto us; Our men were couragious and ready to fight, though I liked not such Martiall business and discourse; but for mee a place was prepared where I might lie hid, and be safe among some barrels of bisket; I had all the night enough to doe, to heare the confessions of those in the Ship, who thought they could not dye happily with the shot of a Holland Bullet, untill they had confessed all their sinnes unto mee, who towards morning had more need of rest, then of fighting, after the wearying of my eares with hearing so many wicked, grievous and abominable sinnes. But the dawning of the day discovered our causelesse feare; which was from friends, and not from any enemies or Hollanders; for the ships which were joyned unto us in the night were as fearefull of us, as we of them, and prepared themselves likewise to fight in the morning, which shewed unto us their colours, whereby wee knew that they were the Fleet which wee expected from Vera Cruz to goe along with us to Spain. They were two and twenty Sail, which little thought to find us out of the Havana, but within the Haven lying at Anchor, waiting for their comming, and therefore in the night feared us much more then wee them. But when the day cleared our doubts, feares and jealousies, then began the Martiall colours to be taken down; the joyfull sound of Trumpets with the helpe of Neptunes Kingdomes ecchoed from ship to ship, the boates carryed welcoming messages from one to another, the Spanish Brindis with buen Viaje, buen passaje, was generally cried out, the whole morning was spent in friendly acclamations and salutations from ship to ship. But in the midst of this our joy, and Sea greetings, wee being now in all two and fifty Saile, (yet wee not knowing well how many they were from Vera Cruz, nor they how many wee were from the Havana) two ships were found amongst us, whether English or Hollanders wee could not well discover, but the English Prisoners with mee told mee they thought one was a ship of England called the Neptune, which having got the wind of us, singled out a ship of ours, which belonged to Dunkerk, and from St. Lucar or Cales had beene forced to the Kings service in that voyage to the India’s, laden with sugars & other rich commodities to the worth of at least fourscore thousand Crowns; and suddainly giving her a whole broad side (receiving a reply onely of two Guns) made her yeeld, without any hope of help from so proud and mighty a Fleet, for that she was somewhat far straggled from the rest of the ships. The whole businesse lasted not above half an houre: but presently shee was carryed away from under our noses; the Spaniards changed their merry tunes into voto a dios and voto a Christo, in raging, cursing, & swearing, some reviling at the Captaine of the ship which was taken, and saying that he was false & yeelded on purpose without fighting, because he was forced to come that Voyage; others cursing those that tooke her, and calling them bijos de puta, Borrachos, infames Ladrones, Bastards, Drunkards, infamous theeves, and Pyrates; some taking their swords in their hands, as if they would there cut them in peeces, some laying hold of their Muskets as if they would there shoot at them, others stamping like mad men, and running about the ship, as if they would leap over board, and make haste after them; others grinning their teeth at the poore English prisoners that were in the ship, as if they would stab them for what (they said) their Country men had done. I must needs say, I had enough to doe to hold some of those furious and raging brains from doing Layfield some mischief, who more then the rest would bee smiling, arguing and answering their outragious nonsense. Order was presently given to the Vice-Admirall and two more Galeons to follow and pursue them; but all in vaine, for the wind was against them, and so the two ships laughing and rejoycing as much as the Spaniards cursed and raged, sailed away con Viento en Popa, with full Sail, gallantly boasting with so rich a prize taken away from two and fifty ships, or (as I may say) from the chiefest, and greatest strength of Spain.

That afternoone the Fleet of Vera Cruz, tooke their leave of us, (not being furnished with Provision to goe on to Spain with us,) and went into the Havana; and we set forwards towards Europe, fearing nothing for the present but the Gulfe of Bahama; through which wee got safely with the help and guidance of such Pilots, which our Admirall Don Carlos had chosen, and hired for that purpose.

I shall not need to tell thee my Reader of the sight which wee had of St Augustine, Florida, nor of many stormes which we suffered in this Voyage, nor of the many degrees wee came under, which made us shake with cold more then the Frost of England doe in the worst of winter; onely I say, that the best of our Pilots not knowing where they were, had like to have betrayed us all to the Rocks of Bermuda one night, had not the breaking of the day given us a faire warning that we were running upon them. For which the Spaniards in stead of giving God thankes for their delivery out of that danger, began againe to curse and rage against the English which inhabited that Island, saying, that they had inchanted that and the rest of those Islands about, and did still with the devill raise stormes in those Seas when the Spanish Fleet passed that way. From thence when wee had safely escaped, wee sailed well to the Islands called Terceras, where faine wee would have taken in fresh water, (for that which we had taken in at Havana now began to stink, and look yellow, making us stop our noses, whilst wee opened our mouthes,) but rigid Don Carlos would not pity the rest of his Company, who led us by the Islands; and that night following wee all wished our selves in some harbour of them; for (though in their conceipt those Islands were not inchanted by English men, but inhabited by holy and Idolatrous Papists) wee were no sooner got from them, when there arose the greatest storme that wee had in all our voyage from Havana to Spain, which lasted full eight dayes, where wee lost one Ship and indangered two Galeons, which shot off their warning peeces for helpe, and made us all stay and wait on them, till they had repaired their Tacklings and maine Mast. We went on sometimes one way, sometimes another, not well knowing where wee were, drinking our stinking water by allowance of pints, till three or foure dayes after the storme was ceased, wee discovered land, which made all cry out, Hispania, Hispania, Spain, Spain; whilst a Counsell was summoned by the Admirall to know what land that was, some sold away barrels of bisket, others of water, to those that wanted (every one thinking that it was some part of Spain,) but the result of the wise Counsell was, after they had sailed neerer to the land, and had layed and lost many wages about it, that it was the Island of Madera, which made some curse the ignorance of the Pilots, and made us all prepare our selves with patience for a longer voyage. It pleased God from the discovery of this Island, to grant us a favourable wind to Spain, where within twelve dayes we discovered Cales; and some of the ships there left us, but most of them went forward to San Lucar, as did the ship wherein I went; when wee came neere to the dangerous place, which the Spaniards call La Barra, wee durst not venture our ships upon our Pilots own knowledge; but called for Pilots to guide us in, who greedy of their lucre came out in boats almost for every ship one. Upon the eight and twentyeth of November, 1637. we cast Anchor within St. Lucar de Barameda about one of the clock in the afternoon, and before evening other passengers and my selfe went a shore (having first been searched) and although I might presently have gone to the Cloister of St. Dominick, where my old friend Fryer Pablo de Londres was yet living, whom I knew would bee glad of my coming from the India’s, yet I thought fit the first night to enjoy my friends company both Spaniards and English, (who had come so long a voyage with me) in some Ordinary, and to take my rest better abroad then I should doe in a Cloister, where I expected but a poore Fryers supper, a hard and mean lodging, many foolish questions from old Fryer Pablo de Londres concerning the India’s, and my abode there so many yeeres, and finally the noise of Bells and ratlers to rouse up the drowsie Fryers from their sleep to Matines at midnight. That night therefore I betooke my selfe to an English Ordinary, where I refreshed my selfe and my poore prisoners, (who by the Master of the ship were committed to my charge that night and forwards upon my word, so as to bee forth comming when they should bee called) and the next morning I sent my honest friend Layfield with a letter to the Cloister to old Pablo de Londres, who upon my summons came joyfully to welcome mee from the India’s, and after very little discourse told mee of ships in the Haven ready to set out for England. The old Fryer being of a decrepit and doting age, thought every day a yeere that I stayed there, and suspended my Voyage for England, and (not knowing the secrets of my heart) judged already that the Conversion or turning of many Protestant soules to Popery waited for my comming, which made him hasten mee, who was more desirous then hee to bee gone the next day, if I might have found wind, weather, and shipping ready. But God, who had been with me in almost ninety dayes sailing from Havana to San Lucar, and had delivered mee from many a storme, prepared and furthered all things in a very short time for the last accomplishment of my hope and desire, to returne to England my native soil, from whence I had been absent almost for the space of foure and twenty yeers.

My first thought here in St. Lucar, was to cast off now my Fryers weed, that outward sheepskin, which covers many a wolvish, greedy, and covetous heart under it; which doubtlesse is the ground, why in Germany in the Protestant and Lutheran towns, when the boyes and young men see a Fryer goe along their streets, they cry out to the neighbours, saying, a Wolfe, a Wolfe, shut your doores; meaning, that though what they weare seeme to bee pellis ovina, or Agnina, a sheep or Lambeskin and their condition of mortified, humble, and meek men, yet under it lyeth cor Lupinum, a Wolves heart, greedy of some prey, either worldly, of wealth and riches, or spirituall, of seducing, deceiving and misleading poore soules. Such was the habit, which now I desired to shake off, which was a white Coat or gown hanging to the ground girded about with a leathern belt, and over it from the shoulders downward a white Scapulary (so called there,) hanging shorter then the gown both before and behind, and over that a white hood to cover the head, and lastly, over that a black cloak with another black hood; both which together, the black and white make the Fryers of that profession look just like Mag-pies, and is acknowledged by the Church of Rome it self in a verse which they faine of Mr. Martin Luther, (with what just ground I know not) saying of his former life and profession before his Conversion, Bis Corvus, bis Pica fui, ter fune ligatus. I was twice a Crow, twice a Magpie, and thrice was bound or tyed with a Cord; by a Crow meaning an Augustin Fryer, who is all in black; by a Magpie, meaning a Dominican, and by bound with a rope or cord, meaning a Franciscan, who indeed is girded about with a cord made of hempe. Though the Dominican Magpie by this his habit make such a glosse and understanding, which is contrary to his life and conversation; for by his outward black habit, hee saith, is signified an outward shew of deadnesse and Mortification to the world, and by his inward white habit, an inward purity and chastity of heart, thoughts and life; both which truely are little seen in those Fryers especially, who outwardly are worldly, and living to the world, covetous and ambitious of honours, preferments, Bishoprickes, and places of publique reading and preaching; and therefore have by favour obtained many places of authority, as by the laws of Aragon to be the King of Spain his Ghostly father, to bee Masters of the Popes Palace, and there to read a lesson of Divinity, to be chief heads of the Inquisition, and from these places to bee promoted to sit in the Councell of the State in Spain, or to bee Cardinals in Rome, and so Popes, or to injoy the richest and fattest Bishopricks and Arch-Bishopricks in Spain, Italy, and India’s, which sheweth how little they are dead to the world, nay how they are living to the world and its preferments, contrary to the black and dead colour of their habits. So likewise doe they not live according to the whitenesse of their inward habits, whose lives are found impure and unchast, as I could exemplify at large, shewing what base and unclean acts have been committed by some of that profession in the Low Countries, in Spain, in the India’s, in Italy, nay here in England by one Dade the Superior of them, by one Popham well knowen to bee a good fellow, and still at this day abiding in the Spanish house, by one Crafts and others, which would bee too too long a digression from the whitenesse of their habit. But I applying the Allegory of this black and white habit otherwise unto my selfe, and in the outward black part of it seeing the foulenesse and filthinesse of my life and Idolatrous Preisthood in the exercise of that profession, and Orders which from Rome I had received; and in the white inward habit considering yet the purity, and integrity of those intentions and thoughts of my inward heart, in pursuance whereof I had left what formerly I have noted, yea all America, which, had I continued in it, might have been to mee a Mine of wealth, riches and treasure; I resolved here therefore to cast off that hypocriticall cloak and habit, and to put on such Apparell whereby I might no more appeare a Wolfe in sheepskin, but might goe boldly to my Country of England, there to shew and make known the Candor of my heart, the purity and sincerity of my thoughts, which had brought mee so farre, by a publik profession of the pure truths of the Gospell, without any invention or addition of man unto it. With the small meanes therefore which was left mee after so long and almost a whole yeeres journey from Petapa to St. Lucar (having yet about a hundred Crownes) I gave order for a sute of Cloathes to bee made by an English Taylor, which I willingly put on, and so prepared my self for England. Three or four ships were in readinesse, who had onely waited for the Fleet, to take in some Commodities, especially some wedges of silver, of which I was with old Pablo de Londres, in doubt which to choose. The first that went out was thought should have beene my lot, in the which my friend Layfield imbarked him selfe (for all the English prisoners were there freed to goe home to their Country) and from which the great providence of God diverted mee, or else I had beene this day with Layfield a slave in Turkey; for the next day after this ship set out, it was taken by the Turkes, and carryed away for a rich prize, and all the English in it for Prisoners to Argell. But God (who I hope had reserved mee for better things,) appointed for mee a safer convoy home in a ship (as I was informed) belonging to Sir William Curtin, under the command of an honest Flemming, named Adrian Adrianzen living at Dover then, with whom I agreed for my passage and dyet at his Table. This ship set out of the Barre of St. Lucar the ninth day after my arrivall thither, where it waited for the company of foure ships more, but especially for some Indian wedges of silver, which upon forfeiture of them it durst not take in within the Barre and Haven.

And thus being now cloathed after a new fashion and ready to lead a new life; being now changed from an American into the fashion of an English man, the tenth day after my abode in San Lucar, I bad adieu to Spain and all Spanish fashions, factions, and carriages, I bad farewell my old Fryer Pablo de Londres, with the rest of my acquaintance, and so in a boat went over the bar to the ship, which that night in company of foure more set forward for England. I might observe here many things of the goodnesse of Adrian Adrianzen, and his good carriage towards mee in his ship, which I will omit, having much more to observe of the goodnesse of God, who favoured this our voyage with such a prosperous wind, and without any storm at all, that in thirteen dayes wee came to Dover, where I landed, the ship going on to the Downes. Others that landed at Margaret were brought to Dover, and there questioned and searched; but I, not speaking English, but Spanish, was not at all suspected, neither judged to be an English man; and so after two dayes I tooke post in company of some Spaniards and an Irish Colonel, for Canterbury, and so forward to Gravesend. When I came to London, I was much troubled within my selfe for want of my Mother tongue, (for I could onely speak some few broken words) which made mee fearefull I should not bee accknowledged to bee an English man born. Yet I thought my kinred (who knew I had beene many yeers lost) would some way or other acknowledge mee, and take notice of mee, if at the first I addressed my selfe unto some of them, untill I could better expresse my selfe in English. The first therefore of my name, whom I had notice of, was my Lady Penelope Gage, widow of Sir John Gage, then living in St. Jones; to whom the next morning after my arrivall to London, I addressed my selfe for the better discovery of some of my kinred; whom though I knew to bee Papists, and therefore ought not to be acquainted with my inward purpose and resolution; yet for feare of some want in the mean time, and that I might by their means practice my selfe in the use of my forgotten native tongue, and that I might enquire what Childs part had beene left me by my father, that I might learn some fashions, and lastly, that in the meane time, I might search into the Religion of England, and find how farre my conscience could agree with it, and bee satisfied in those scruples which had troubled mee in America, for all these reasons I thought it not amisse to looke and inquire after them. When therefore I came unto my Lady Gage, shee beleeved mee to bee her kinsman, but laughed at mee, telling mee, that I spake like an Indian or Welch man, and not like an English man; yet shee welcomed mee home, and sent mee with a servant to a Brothers lodging in Long Aker, who being in the Country of Surrey, and hearing of mee sent horse and man for mee to come to keepe Christmas with an Uncle of mine living at Gatton; by whom as a lost and forgotten Nephew, and now after foure and twenty yeeres returned home againe, I was very kindly entertained, and from thence sent for to Cheam, to one Mr. Fromand another kinsman, with whom I continued till after twelfth day, and so returned againe to London to my brother.

Thus my good Reader, thou seest an American, through many dangers by Sea and Land, now safely arrived in England; and thou maiest well with mee observe the great and infinite goodnesse and mercy of God towards mee a wicked and wretched sinner. How I have answered to this Gods gracious calling mee from so farre and remote a Country, to doe him service here, I will shew thee in the Chapter following, and conclude this my long and tedious History.