Chap. XI Concluding the Rest of Our Journey From Tlaxcallan to Mexico, Through the City of Angels, and Guacocingo
The next place most remarkable in the Rode wherein wee travelled was the City called by the Spaniards, La Puebla de los Angeles, the City of Angels. To the which wee were desirous to goe, knowing that in it there was a Convent of Dominicans of our profession, not having met with any such since the day we departed from St. John de Ulhua. Here wee refreshed our selves at leasure three dayes, finding our selves very welcome to our owne Brethren, who spared nothing that was fit for our entertainment. Wee visited all the City, and tooke large notice of it, judging of the wealth and riches of it not only by the great Trading in it, but by the many Cloisters both of Nuns and Fryers, which it maintaineth, such being commonly very burthensome to the places where they live, an idle kind of beggers who make the people believe the maintaining of them is meritorious and saving to their Soules, and that their prayers for them is more worth then the meanes and sustenance which they receive from them. Of these there is in that City a very great Cloister of some fifty or threescore Dominicans, another of more Franciscans, another of Augustins, another of Mercenarians, another of discalced Carmelites, another of Jesuits, besides foure of Nuns. This City is seated in a low and pleasant Valley, about ten leagues from a very high Mountaine, which is alwayes covered with snow; It standeth twenty leagues from Mexico, it was first built and inhabited in the yeare 1530. by the command of Don Antonio de Mendoza Viceroy of Mexico, together with the consent of Sebastian Ramirez, who was a Bishop, and had been President in time past in Sto. Domingo, and was that yeare in stead of Nunnio de Guzman, (who had behaved himselfe very evill both with the Indians and Spaniards) sent to bee President of the Chancery of Mexico with these other foure Judges the Licenciates John de Salmeron, Gasco Quiroga, Francisco Ceynos, and Alonso Maldonado. These Judges governed the land farre better then Nunnio de Guzman before them had done; and among other remarkable things they did, was to cause this City to bee inhabited; and set at liberty the Indians who inhabited there before, and were grievously suppressed and inslaved by the Spaniards, and therefore many of them departed from thence, who had inhabited there before, and went to seeke their living at Xalixco, Honduras, Guatemala and other places, where Warre then was. This City was formerly called by the Indians Cuetlaxcoapan, that is to say, a Snake in water; the reason was, because there are two Fountaines, the one of evill water, and the other of good. This City is now a Bishops Sea, whose yeerely Revenues since the cutting off from it Xalappa De la Vera Crux, are yet worth above twenty thousand Duckats; By reason of the good and wholesome aire it dayly increaseth with Inhabitants, who resort from many other places to live there; but especially the yeare 1634. when Mexico was like to bee drowned with the inundation of the lake, thousands left it, and came with all their goods and Families to this City of the Angels, which now is thought to consist of ten thousand Inhabitants. That which maketh it most famous is the Cloth which is made in it, and is sent farre and neere, and judged now to bee as good as the Cloth of Segovia, which is the best that is made in Spain, but now is not so much esteemed of, nor sent so much from Spain to America by reason of the abundance of fine Cloth which is made in this City of Angels. The Felts likewise that are made, are the best of all that Country; there is likewise a glassehouse, which is there a rarity, none other being as yet knowne in those parts. But the mint house that is in it, where is coyned halfe the Silver that cometh from Sacatecas, makes it the second to Mexico; and it is thought that in time it will bee as great and populous as Mexico. Without it there are many Gardens, which store the Markets with provision of Salets; the soile abounds with Wheat, and with Sugar Farmes; among the which not farre from this City there is one so great and populous (belonging to the Dominican Fryers of Mexico) that for the work onely belonging unto it, it maintained in my time above two hundred black-more slaves men and women besides their little children. The chief Town betweene this City of Angels, and Mexico, is called Guacocingo consisting of some five hundred Indians, and one hundred Spaniards Inhabitants. Here is likewise a Cloister of Franciscans, who entertained us gallantly, and made shew unto us of the dexterity of their Indians in Musick. Those fat Fryers wanted not like the rest all Provision necessary for the body. But their greatest glory and boasting to us was the education which they had given to some children of the Town, especially such as served them in their Cloister, whom they had brought up to dancing after the Spanish fashion at the sound of the Guitarra. And this a dozen of them (the biggest not being above fourteene years of age) performed excellently for our better entertainment that night, wee were there till midnight, singing both Spanish and Indian tunes, capering and dancing with their Castannettas, or knockers on their fingers with such dexterity, as not onely did delight, but amaze and astonish us. True it is, wee thought those Franciscans might have been better imployed at that time in their Quire at their midnight devotions according to their profession; but we still found vowed religious duties more and more neglected, and worldlinesse too too much imbraced, by such as had renounced and forsaken the world and all its pleasures, sports and pastimes.
This Towne of Guacocingo is almost as much as Tlaxcallan priviledged by the Kings of Spain; for that it joyned with Tlaxcallan against the Mexicans, in defence of Hernando Cortez and the rest of the Spaniards that first conquered that land. These of Guacocingo being confederated with the inhabitants of Tlaxcallan, Chololla, and Huacacholla strongly defended the inhabitants of Chalco, when they sent to Cortez for succour, declaring that the Mexicans made great spoile among them. Which succour Cortez at that time not being able to send them; being busied in sending for his Vergantines to besiege Mexico by water as well as by land, he remitted them to the helpe of the Tlaxcalteca’s, and unto these of Guacocingo, Chlolla, and Huacacholla; who shewed great valour as yet never buried in oblivion, in relieving Chalco against the strength, and power of Montezuma, which had issued out of Mexico, to keep the Spaniards from drawing neer unto that City. For that fact is this Towne with the others fore-mentioned, untill this day priviledged and highly esteemed of the Spaniards. From hence wee made our last journey to the City of Mexico, parting over the side of that high hill which we had discovered at the City of Angels, some thirty miles off. There are no Alpes like unto it for height, cold, and constant snow that lieth upon it. From Spain to that place we had not felt any such extremity of cold, which made the Spaniards that had come out of the hot climate of Spain, and endured excessive heat at sea, wonder and admire. This last journey from Guacocingo to Mexico we reckoned to be thirty English miles, and of the thirty miles we judged at least the fifteen to be up and downe the hill; and yet the top of it (whither we ascended not) was far higher. From that highest part of it which we travailed over, we discovered the City of Mexico, and the lake about it, which seemed to us to be neer at hand, standing some ten English miles in a plain from the bottome of this mountaine. When Hernando Cortez went the second time from Tlaxcallan to Mexico, to besiege it by land and by water, with Vergantines which for that purpose he had caused to be made, on the side of this mountaine were his land Forces lodged, where many had perished with cold, had it not been for the store of wood which they found there. But in the morning he ascended upwards on this hill, and sent his scout of foure Foot-men and four Horse-men to discover, who found the way stopped with great trees newly cut downe by the Mexicans, and placed crossewise in the way. But they thinking that yet forwards it was not so, proceeded forth as well as they might, till at length the let with great huge Cedars was such, that they could passe no further, and with this newes were forced to return, certifying Cortez that the Horse-men could not passe that way in any wise. Cortez demanded of them whether they had seen any people; they answered No. Whereupon he proceeded forward, with all the Horse-men, and a thousand Foot-men, commanding all the residue of his Army to follow him with as much speed as might be; so that with that company which he carried with him, he made way, taking away the trees that were cut downe to disturbe his passage; and in this order in short time passed his host without any hurt or danger, but with great pain and travaile; for certainly if the Mexicans had been there to defend that passage, the Spaniards had not passed; for it was then a very evill way (though now it be a reasonable wide open rode, where Mules laden with wares from St. John de Ulhua, and the Sugar farmes daily passe) and the Mexicans also thought the same to be sure with the trees which were crossed the way; whereupon they were carelesse of that place, and attended their coming in plain ground; for from Tlaxcallan to Mexico are three wayes, of the which Cortez chose the worst, imagining the thing that afterwards fell out, or else some had advised him how that way was cleare from the enemies. At the descent of this hill Cortez abode and rested himselfe, till all the whole Army were come together, to descend downe into the plaine; for from hence they descried the fires and beacons of their enemies in sundry places, and all those who had attended their coming by the other two waies, were now gathered together, thinking to set upon them betwixt certain bridges (which are in the plain made for travellers by reason of the many dikes and currents of water which issue from the lake) where a great company abode expecting their coming. But Cortez sent twenty Horse-men who made way among them, and then followed the whole Army, who slew many of them without receiving any hurt. Thus did the remembrance of those antiquities newly refreshed by the object of the hill and plain beneath, make that cold and hard passage more comfortable and easie unto us. The first Towne we came to below the hill, was Quahutipec, of the jurisdiction of Tezcuco; where we also called to mind, that this was the place, neer unto which was pitched the Campe of the Indians of Culhua, which was neer a hundred thousand men of warre, who were sent by the Seniors of Mexico and Tezcuco to encounter Cortez; but all in vain; for his Horse-men broke through them, and his Artillerie made such havock among them, that they were soon put to flight.
Three leagues from hence on our right hand as we travailed, we discovered Tezcuco by the side of the lake, and out of the Rode; yet it ministred unto us matter of a large discourse, taken from the time of Cortez and the first Conquerers, who found it a great City, and at that time even as big as Mexico; though in it Cortez met with no resistance; for as he journeyed towards it, foure principall persons inhabitants of it met with his forces, bearing a rod of gold with a little flag in token of peace, saying that Coacuacoyocin their Lord had sent them to desire him not to make any spoile in his City, and Townes about it; and likewise to offer his friendship, praying also that it might please him with his whole Army to take his lodging in the Town of Tezcuco, where he should be well received. Cortez rejoycing at this message, yet jealous of some treachery, and mistrusting the people of Tezcuco (whose forces joyned with the Mexicans and Culhuacans he had met with a little before) went forward on his way and came to Quahutichan and Huaxuta (which then were suburbs of the great City Tezcuco, but now are petty Villages by themselves) where he and all his host were plenteously provided of all things necessary, and threw down the Idols. This done he entred into the City, where his lodging was prepared in a great house, sufficient for him and all the Spaniards, with many other his Indian friends. And because that at his first entry, he saw neither women nor children, he suspected some treason, and forthwith proclaimed upon pain of death that none of his men should goe out. In the evening the Spaniards went up into the Zoties and galleries to behold the City, and there they saw the great number of Citizens that fled from thence with their stuffe, some towards the mountaines, and others to the water side to take boat, a thing strange to see the great haste and stirre to provide for themselves. There were at that time at least twenty thousand little boats (called Canoas) occupied in carrying houshold-stuffe and passengers; Cortez would faine have remedied it, but the night was so nigh at hand, that he could not. He would gladly also have apprehended the Lord, but hee was one of the first that fled unto Mexico. This Towne of Tezcuco to this day is famous among the Spaniards; for that it was one of the first, if not the first (which according to the Histories of those parts is very probable) that received a Christian King to rule and governe. For Cortez hearing that Coacuacoyocin then King of that City and Townes adjacent was fled, caused many of the Citizens to be called before him, and having in his company a young gentleman of a Noble house in that countrey, who had been lately Christened, and had to name Hernando (Cortez being his God-father, who loved him well) said unto the Citizens, that this new Christian Lord Don Hernando was sonne unto Nezavalpincintli their loving Lord, wherefore he required them to make him their King, considering that Coacuacoyocin was fled unto the enemies, laying also before them his wicked fact in killing of Cacuza his owne brother, onely to put him from his inheritance and Kingdome, through the enticement of Quahuatimoecin a mortall enemy to the Spaniards. In this sort was that new Christian Don Hernando elected King, and the fame thereof being blown abroad, many Citizens repaired home again to visit their new Prince, so that in short space the City was as well replenished with people, as it was before, and being also well used at the Spaniards hands, they served them diligently in all things that they were commanded. And Don Hernando abode ever after a faithfull friend unto the Spaniards in their warres against Mexico, and in short time learned the Spanish tongue. And soone after came the inhabitants of Quahutichan, Huaxuta, and Autenco to submit themselves, craving pardon if in any thing they had offended. Within two daies after Don Hernando was made King of this great City and Territorie belonging to it (whose borders reach unto the borders of Tlaxcallan) came certaine gentlemen of Huaxuta and Quahutichan, to certifie unto him, how all the power of the Mexicans was coming towards them, and to know if it were his pleasure, that they should carry their wives, children and other goods into the mountaines, or else to bring them where he was, their feare was so great. Cortez for the King his God-child and favourite made unto them this answer, saying, Bee ye of good courage, and feare ye not. Also I pray you to command your wives and families to make no alteration, but rather quietly to abide in your houses. And concerning the enemies I am glad of their coming, for yee shall see how I will deale with them. But the enemies went not to Huaxuta, as it was thought, neverthelesse Cortez having intelligence where they were, went out to encounter them with two pieces of Ordnance, twelve Horsemen and two hundred Spaniards, and with many Indians of Tlaxcallan. He fought with the enemy, and slew but few, for they fled to the water, and so escaped in their Canoa’s. Thus did Cortez in Tezcuco defend himselfe and friends from the great power of the Mexicans, who daily attempted to be revenged on him, and the new Christian King whom he had made. But Cortez, thinking that place the most convenient to lanch his Vergantines to the water, and hearing that they were finished at Tlaxcallan, sent Gonzalo de Sandoval to bring them from Tlaxcallan; who at the border of that Province met with them being brought in pieces, as tables, planks and nayles, with all other furniture, the which eight thousand men carried upon their backes. There came also for their safe conduct twenty thousand men of warre, and a thousand Tamemez, who were the Carriers of victuals, and servants. Chichimecatetl, a principall and valiant Indian and Captaine of a thousand men had the Rere-gard. And Tupitil and Teutecotl, very principall gentlemen, had the Vant-gard with ten thousand men. In the midst were placed the Tamemez, and those that carried the Foyst, with all the apparell of the Vergantines. Before those two Captains went a hundred Spaniards, and eight Horse-men, and behind and last came Gonzalo de Sandoval with all the residue, and seven Horse-men. Thus they tooke their way towards Tezcuco, with a marvellous noise, crying, Christians, Christians, Tlaxcallan, Tlaxcallan, and Spaine. When they came to Tezcuco, they entred in very good order, with the sound of Drummes, Snail shels, and other like instruments of musick; and against their entry into the City, they put on all their bravery of clothes, and bushes of feathers, which was a gallant sight; they were six houres in entring into the Towne, keeping their array. At the fame of this many Provinces came to submit and offer their service unto Cortez, some for fear of destruction, and others for the hatred which they bare to the Mexicans; so that now Cortez was strong both with Spaniards and Indians; and his Court at Tezcuco was as great, or greater then Montezuma’s formerly had been at Mexico. And here Cortez made his preparation for the siege of Mexico with all hast, and furnished himselfe with scaling ladders, and other necessaries fit for such a purpose. His Vergantines being nayled and throughly ended, he made a sluce, or trench of halfe a league of length, twelve foot broad and more, and two fadome in depth. This worke was fifty daies a doing, although there were foure hundred thousand men daily working; truly a famous worke and worthy of memory, which hath made Tezcuco gloriously mentioned, though now almost decayed in the great number of inhabitants. The Dock or Trench being thus finished, the Vergantines were calked with towe and cotton wooll, and for want of Tallow and oyle, they were (as some Authors report) driven to take mans grease, not that Cortez permitted them to slay men for that effect, but of those which were slaine in the warres, and of such as sallied dayly out of Mexico to hinder this work, and fighting were slaine. The Indians, who were cruel and bloody Butchers, using sacrifice of mans flesh, would in this sort open the dead body and take out the grease. The Vergantines being lanched, Cortez mustered his men, and found nine hundred Spaniards, of the which were fourscore and six Horse-men, and a hundred and eighteen with Crosse-bowes, and Hargabushes; and all the residue had sundry weapons, as Swords, Daggers, Targets, Launces, and Halberts. Also they had for armour, Corslets, coats of Mayle, and Jackes. They had moreover three great Peeces of cast Iron, fifteen small peeces of brasse, and ten hundred weight of powder, with store of shot, besides a hundred thousand Indians, men of warre. On Whitsunday all the Spaniards came into the field, that great plaine below the high mountaine spoken of before, where Cortez made three chiefe Captaines, among whom he divided his whole Army. Unto Pedro de Alvarado the first Captaine he appointed thirty Horse-men, and a hundred and seventy Foote men of the Spaniards, two peeces of Ordnance, and thirty thousand Indians, commanding him to campe in Tlacopan. Unto Christoval de Olid the second Captaine hee gave three and thirty horsemen, and a hundred and eighteen footmen of the Spanish Nation, two Peeces of Ordnance and thirty thousand Indians, and appointed him to pitch his campe in Culhuacan. To Gonzalo de Sandoval, who was the third Captaine, hee gave three and twenty horsemen, and a hundred and threescore footmen, two peeces of Ordnance, and forty thousand Indians, with Commission to choose a place to pitch his campe. In every Vergantine hee planted a peice or Ordnance, six Hargabushes, or Crosse-bowes, and three and twenty Spaniards, men most fit for that purpose. Hee appointed also Captaines for each, and himselfe for Generall, whereof some of the chiefest of his Company began to murmur, that went by land, thinking that they had been in greater danger; wherefore they required him to goe with the maine battaile, and not by water. Cortez little esteemed their words; for although there was more danger in the land then in the water, yet it did more import to have greater care in the Warres by water, then on the land, because his men had beene in the one, and not in the other. Besides the chiefest hopes that Cortez had to winne Mexico, were these Vessels, for with them he burned a great part of the Canoa’s of Mexico, and the rest hee so locked up, that they were no help unto the Mexicans, and with twelve onely Vergantines hee did annoy his enemy as much by water, as the rest of his Army did by land. All this preparation for the siege of Mexico by land and water, with above a hundred thousand Indians, besides the Spaniards above mentioned, and the twelve Vergantines by water, was finished in this City of Tezcuco, which is a sufficient argument of the greatnesse of it at that time, maintaining with Provision fit and necessary so many thousands of people, and it yeelded matter enough unto us for a large discourse, whilst not farre from the sight of it wee travelled in the open and direct plaine Rode to Mexico. And as we talked of the greatnesse of it in former times, so likewise wee now wondered to consider it to bee but a small Government, where doth constantly reside a Spanish Governour sent from Spain, whose power reacheth to those borders of Tlaxcallan and Guacocingo, and to most of the petty Townes and Villages of the plaine, which were formerly under the command and power of a King; but now are not able to make up above a thousand Duckats a yeer, which is supposed to bee the yeerly revenues of the Governour; and Tezcuco it self this day judged to consist onely of a hundred Spaniards, and three hundred Indian Inhabitants, whose chiefe riches come by gardening, and sending daily in their Canoa’s Herbes and Salets to Mexico. Some wealth likewise they get by their Cedar trees which grow there, and are ready timber for the buildings of Mexico. Yet now also are these Cedars much decayed by the Spaniards, who have wasted and spoiled them in their too too sumptuous buildings. Cortez onely was accused by Pamfilo de Narvaez, for that hee had spent seven thousand beames of Cedar trees in the worke of his owne house. Gardens there were in Tezcuco formerly, that had a thousand Cedar trees for walls and circuite, some of them of a hundred and twenty foot long, and twelve foot in compasse from end to end; but now that Garden that hath fifty Cedar trees about it, is much regarded. At the end of this plain wee passed through Mexicalcinco, which formerly was a great Town, but now not of above an hundred Inhabitants, and from thence to Guetlavac, a petty Village, yet most pleasant for the shade of many fruit trees, Gardens, and stately houses which for their recreation some Citizens of Mexico have built there, being at the foot of the Cawsey which from this Town through the Lake reacheth about five English miles to Mexico. And thus upon the third day of October, 1625. wee entred into that famous and gallant City, yet not abiding in it, but onely passing through it, till we came to a house of recreation, standing among the Gardens in the way to Chapultepec, named Saint Jacintho, belonging to the Dominicans of Manila in the East-India’s, (whither our course was intended) where wee were stately entertained, and abode till after Candlemasse day, the time of our second shipping at Acoapulco (80 leagues from Manila) by the South-Sea to Manila the chief City of the Islands named Philippinas.