Chap. XVIII Describing the Dominions, Government, Riches, and Greatnesse of the City of Guatemala, and Country Belonging Unto It
I had not rid on above a mile from the Church of Xocotenango, when the hils and Mountaines seemed to depart one from another, leaving a more spatious object for the eye to behold, and a wider Valley to wander in. The fame of that City from Mexico and Chiapa had raised up my thoughts to conceit of some strong walls, Towers, Forts or Bulwarks to keep out an aspiring or attempting enemy; But when I came neere and least thought of it, I found my self in it without entring through walls, or gates, or passing over any bridge, or finding any watch or guard to examine who I was; but passing by a new built Church, standing neere a place of dunghils, where were none but mean houses, some thatched, and some tyled, and asking what Town that was, answer was made me that it was the City of Guatemala, and that that, being called St. Sebastian, was the onely Parish Church of the City. With this my high conceiting thoughts stooped down to think of some second Chiapa; till having continued on a while by houses on my right hand and dunghils on my left, I came to a broader street having houses on each side, which seemed to promise a City at hand. At my first turning I discovered a proud and stately Cloister, which was the place of rest to my wearied body. I surrounded it to finde out the back gate, and there lighted, and enquired for the Prior, who bad me very welcome, assuring me that for the Provincials sake, I should want no incouragement, and that hee would doe for mee much more then what the Provinciall had signified unto him by Letters. He told mee hee had beene brought up in Spain, in the Country of Asturias, where many English ships did use to come, and having seen there many of my Nation, he affected them very much, and to mee as one of so good a Nation, and as a stranger and Pilgrime out of my owne Country, hee would shew all the favour that the utmost of his power would afford. How glad was I, to find in him so contrary an opinion to that of foure eyed Hidalgo? And how did he performe his words? He was the chief Master and Reader of Divinity in the University, his name Master Jacintho de Cabannas, who finding mee desirous to follow the Schools, and especially to hear from him some lessons of Theologie, within the first quarter of yeer, that I had been his constant and attentive Auditor, graced mee with a publick act of conclusions of Divinity, which I was to defend under his direction and moderation in the face of the whole University and Assembly of Doctors and Divines, against the Tenents of Scotus and Suarez. But the principall and head conclusion was concerning the birth of the Virgin Mary, whom both Jesuites, Suarez and Franciscans, and Scotists hold to have beene borne without Originall sinne, or any guilt or staine of it, against whose fond, foolish and ungrounded fancies, I publickly defended with Thomas Aquinas, and all Thomists, that shee (as well as all Adams posterity) was borne in Originall sin. It was an act, the like whereof had not been so controverted in that University with arguments in contra, and their answers and solutions, and with reasons and arguments in pro many yeers before. The Jesuites stamped with their feet, clapt with their hands, railed with their tongues, and condemned it with their mouths for a heresie, saying, that in England, where were hereticks, such an opinion concerning Christs mother might bee held, and defended by mee who had my birth among hereticks, but that Master Cabannas borne among Spaniards, and brought up in their Universities, and being the chief Reader in that famous Academy should maintaine such an opinion, they could not but much marvaile and wonder at it. But with patience I told them, that strong reasons, and the further authority of many learned Thomist Divines should satisfie their vaine and clamorous wondring. The Act was ended, and though with Jesuites I could get no credit, yet with the Dominicans, and with Master Cabannas, I got so much that I never after lost it for the space of almost twelve yeers; but was still honored by the meanes of this Cabannas and Fryer John Baptist the Prior of Chiapa (who at Christmas ensuing was made Prior of Guatemala) with honors and preferments as great as ever stranger was living among Spaniards. These two above named being at Candlemas or beginning of February that same yeer at Chiapa, at the election of a new Provinciall, would not forget mee their poorest friend stil abiding in Guatemala, but remembring that the University (which belonged chiefly to the Cloister) at Michaelmas would want a new Reader or Master of Arts to begin with Logick, continue through the eight bookes of Physicks, and to end with the Metaphysicks, propounded mee to the new elected Provinciall (whose name was Fryer John Ximeno) and to the whole Chapter and Conventicle of the Province for Reader of Arts in Guatemala the Michaelmas next ensuing. Their suit for me was so earnest and their authority so great that nothing could bee denied them, and so they brought unto mee from the Provinciall Chapter these insuing Letters Patents, from Fryer John Ximeno, whose form and manner I thought fit here to insert out of the Original in Spanish (which to this day abideth with me) for curiosity and satisfaction of my Reader.
Fray Juan Ximeno Predicador General y Prior Provincial desta Provincia de San Vicente de Chiapa y Guatemala, Orden de Predicadores. Por quanto nuestro Convento de Sancto Domingo de Guatemala carece de Lector de Artes. Por la presente Instituyo y doy por Lector Al Padre fray Thomas de Sancta Maria (so was my Name then, and by this name will some Spaniards know mee, who may chance hereafter to read this, and curse mee) por la satisfaccion que tengo de su sufficiencia. Y mando al Pe. Prior del dicho nuestro Convento, le ponga en possession del tal Officio. Y para mayor merito de obediencia le mando in virtute Spiritu sancti, et sanctæ obedientiæ, et sub præcepto formali; In nomine Patris, et Filii et Spiritus sancti. Amen. Fecho en este nuestro Convento de Chiapa la Real en nueve de Febrero de 1627. Y la mande sellar con sello mayor de nuistro officio.
Fray Juan or Ximeno Plis.
Por Mandado de Nostro Rdo. Padre, Fray Juan de Sto. Domingo Noto.
Notifique esta Patente a el Contenido, en 12 dias del mes de Abril de 1627. Fray Juan Baptista Por.
This Form according to the Originall in Spanish is thus in English, and to this purpose.
Fryer John Ximeno Preacher Generall, and Prior Provinciall of this Province of Saint Vincent of Chiapa and Guatemala, Order of Preachers. Whereas our Convent of Saint Dominick of Guatemala wanteth and stands in need of a Reader of Arts: By these presents I doe institute, name and appoint for Reader Fryer Thomas of Saint Mary, for the great satisfaction which I have of his sufficiency. And I command the Prior of the foresaid our Convent, that hee put him into full possession and enjoyment of the said Office. And for the greater merit of obedience I command him (our forenamed Reader,) by vertue of the Holy Ghost, and of holy obedience, and under a formall precept, In the Name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost, Amen. Dated in this our Convent of Chiapa the Royall, the ninth of February, 1627. And I commanded these to bee sealed with the great Seale of our Office.
Fryer John or Ximeno Pal.
By the command of our Reverend Father Fryer John of St. Dominick. Notary.
I notified these Letters, Patents, unto the contained in them the 12. day of the moneth of Aprill. 1627.
Fryer John Baptist. Por.
This honour conferred upon mee a stranger, and new commer to the Province, made the Criolian party and some others (who had aymed at that place and preferment in the University) to stomack mee. But to mee it was a spurre to stir and prick mee on to a more eager pursuit of learning, to frequent the Academy lessons with more care and diligence; and to spend my selfe and time, day and night, more in studying, that so I might performe with like honour that which was laid upon mee, and answer the expectation of my best and forwardest friends. Three yeers I continued in this Convent and City in obedience to the forecited Patents; oftentimes I thought within my self that the honour of my English Nation here lay upon me in Guatemala, in not suffering any Spaniard to goe beyond mee, or to outbrave mee with gallant, witty and well seeming arguments; and so many times I would at nine of the clock at night, when others were gone to bed, take in my chamber a cup of hot Chocolatte, that with it I might banish sleep from mine eyes, and might the better continue in my study till one or two in the morning, being bound to awake and bee up again by six. I was loath in these three yeers to take upon mee any other of such charges which are common in such Convents; but especially to preach much, and to hear the Confessions of such both men and women as resorted to the Church of that Cloister, lest hereby my studies might bee hindered, and time spent in other waies. Yet the Prior and Master Cabannas would often bee very importunate with mee, to obtaine the Bishops License for hearing of Confessions, and Preaching abroad in the City and Country (for in the Church of that Cloister I might and did sometimes, though seldome preach with Permission of the Provinciall) but this I strongly refused, untill such time as the Provinciall himselfe came to Guatemala, who hearing me once Preach, would by all meanes have mee further licensed and authorised from the Bishop, that so I might not bee straitned within the Cloisters limits, but abroad in other Churches might freely Preach, and thereby get some money for the better furnishing my selfe with Bookes. Hee therefore commanded mee to bee examined by five examiners all able Divines, for the space of three houres (as is the custome of that Order) and having three houres stood under their hard and rigid questions and examination, having also at the end obtained their approbation, then the Provinciall presented mee unto the Bishop with these words following, being taken out of the Originall yet abiding with mee.
Fray Juan Ximeno Predicador General, y Provincial desta Provincia de San Vicente de Chiapa y Guatemala, Orden de Predicadores, Presento a Vuestra Sennoria Illustrissima al Padre Fray Thomas de Sancta Maria, examinado y a provado por cinco examinadores per vota Secreta, conforme a nuestras Constitutiones, Para que Vuestra Sennoria Illustrissima se sirva de darle licencia para Confessar y Predicar a todo genero de Gente en su Obispado, Conforme a la Clementina, Dudum de Sepulturis.
A Vuestra Sennoria Illustrissima Suplico le aya por Presentado, y se sirva de dalle la dicha licencia, que en ello recibire merced.
Fray Juan or Ximeno, Palis.
This forme of presentation, used among them, naming the party presenting, and the party presented, is in English much to this purpose.
Frier John Ximeno, Preacher Generall, and Provinciall of this Province of St. Vincent, of Chiapa and Guatemala, Order of Preachers, do present unto your Lordship the father Frier Thomas of St. Mary (already examined, and approved by five Examiners by secret Votes, according to our Rule and Constitutions) that your Lordship may be pleased to grant him licence to heare Confessions, and to preach to all sorts of people in your Bishoprick, according to that Rule and Canon of Pope Clement, beginning with these words, Dudum de Sepulturis.
I humbly beseech your Lordship, to have him for presented, and to grant him your foresaid licence, and therein I shall receive great favour.
Frier John or Ximeno. Palis.
The Bishop of Guatemala being my great friend, and a well-wisher to learning and especially to that Universitie, needed not many words of intreaty, but presently gave me this Licence written on the back-side of the presentation, and that without any further examination by his Clergy and part of his Chapter, which hee may and doth use when he pleaseth.
Nos el Maestro Don Fray Joan de Sandoval, y, Capata, de la Orden de San Augustin por la Divina Gracia Obispo de Guatemala y la Vera Paz, y del Confejo de su Magistad etc. Por la Presente damos licencia al Padre Fray Thomas de Santa Maria de la orden de Predicadores Contenido en la Presentacion de su Religion atras Contenida, Para que en todo este nuestro Obispado pueda Predicar, y Predique la Palabra de Dios, y para que pueda administrar, y administre el Sacramento Santo de la Penitentia generalmente a todas las Personas que con el tubieren Devocion de Confessare (excepto Monias) y a las Personas que Confessare pueda absolver, y absuelva de todos sus pecados, Crimines y excessos, excepto de los casos reservados a su santidad, y a Nos por Direcho. Dada en la Ciudad de Santiago de Guatemala, en quarto de Diziembre de Mill, y Seyscientos, y veynte y nueve Annos.
El Obispo de Guatemala
Por Mandado del Illmo. mi Senor Pedro Ramirez de Valdes, Secretario.
This forme of licence to preach and heare confessions, from the Bishop of Guatemala, is worth Englishing for some things in it, which I shall observe with inclosed Parentheses as I goe along for the better reminding my Reader of them.
Wee (Bishops in that Church scorne the name of a singular person, shewing they have the power of all persons joyned together in them, of rich and poore, of subject and Prince) Master and Lord Frier John de Sandoval y Capata of the Order of St. Augustin (though brought up in a poore Mendicant Cloister, yet now he takes upon him the Title of a Lord, and shewes how Prelates in that Church use to Lord it over the people) by the Divine Grace Bishop of Guatemala and the Vera Paz, (he stiles himselfe a Bishop by Divine Grace, whereas he himselfe acording to the common report of him, as also are most Bishops there made, was made Bishop not by any Divine Grace, but by unwarranted Simony and favour from Courtiers, having given many thousand Crownes for that his Bishopricke) of his Majesties Councell (Bishops there must be Counsellors to Kings, and meddle in Court and Politicke affaires) by these Present give licence to Father Frier Thomas of Saint Mary, of the Order of Preachers, contained in the Presentation from his religious Order on the back-side of this our licence, that throughout all our Bishopricke he may and doe preach the word of God (yet I confesse This word of God is little used in Sermons in that Church, but rather the words of Saints of theirs and Fathers, and lying words of miracles, wherewith they stuffe up a whole houres preaching) and that he may and doe administer the holy Sacrament of Penance (not holy as it came from the mouth of him to whom the Seraphims cry Holy, Holy, Holy, but as it came from the head of Rome, who sacrilegiously stiles himselfe Holinesse and most Holy Father. Not a Sacrament as so left and ordained by Christ, but one of Romes seven Sacraments, which as it is a City knowne and distinguished by seven hills, so will that Church be knowne and distinguished from the true Church by seven Sacraments) generally to all persons, which shall have devotion to confesse with him, excepting Nuns (this Bishop had in that City one of the six Judges of the Chancery his daughter a Nun called Donna Juana de Maldonado y Paz, whom he loved dearly, and much conferred with her in private in the Cloister, whose private conferences he was jealous they should be knowne in Confession, and therefore would suffer none to hear Nuns Confessions, but such as were his most intimate friends, and of whom he had great satisfaction, alleadging this reason that such as heard Nuns Confessions ought to be very skilfull and experienced in such waies, and men of age; for that greater cases of Conscience were to be met with in Nuns Confessions, than in others. By which reason he unwisely brought an aspersion upon those Virgins, who should live chastly and holily as separated from the world and inclosed, and yet it seems by this Bishops opinion, that within their inclosed walls sins are committed more grievous then abroad in the wide world, and such as may puzzle a Ghostly Father if not skillfull and ancient) and that he may and doe absolve all persons which shall confesse with him (if onely God can pardon and absolve from sinne, Oh how is Gods power arrogated and taken, yea and abused by those sacrilegious Priests!) from all their sins, crimes, and excesses, excepting such cases as are reserved to his Holinesse, and to us by Canon right. (A wicked rule and Canon, a Government certainly most cruell and tyrannicall, that bindes poor wretches in some cases to goe from America to Rome, at least eight thousand miles to cleare their Consciences before the Pope, or else they must die without pardon and absolution from sinne, many having not meanes to goe thither, nor gifts to bestow upon their Pope, who must be bribed to absolve them. O how more sweet, comfortable and safe is it for a heinous sinner and offendour even at home or in the Church grieving within his heart, and keeping within himselfe, to lift up a broken heart, and make that poste and flie with wings of Eagles to the high Throne of Gods grace and mercy, with assured confidence that there only is pardon, remission and absolution granted to all such as doe truely and unfeignedly repent of their sins, crimes and excesses!) Dated in the City of St. James of Guatemala, the fourth day of December, in the yeer of our Lord 1629.
The Bishop of Guatemala.
By the Command of my most Illustrious Lord, Peter Ramirez de Valdes. Secretary.
Thus with full and ample Commission from the Bishop and the Provinciall was I setled in Guatemala, to read and preach, where, (although I might have continued many yeers and was offered to read Divinity, having in part begun it one quarter of a yeere) I continued yet but three yeers and almost an halfe for the reason I shall shew hereafter. So what in that time I could observe of that City, and of the Countrey round about, having had occasions to travaile about it both when I lived in Guatemala, and afterwards when I lived for above seven yeers in the Countrey Townes, I shall truly and faithfully recommend unto my Reader. This City of Guatemala (called by the Spaniards Santiago, or St. James of Guatemala) is seated in a valley, which is not above two miles and a halfe broad, for the high mountaines doe keep it close in; but in length towards the South-sea it continues a wide and champaigne Countrey, opening it selfe broader a little beyond that Towne, which to this day is called la Ciudad Vieja, or the old City, standing somewhat above three miles from Guatemala. Though the mountaines on each side doe strongly environ it, and especially on the East-side seem to hang over it, yet none of them are hinderers to Travellers, who over them have opened waies easie for man and beasts though heavily laden with wares of all sorts. The way from Mexico, if taken by the coast of Soconuzco, and Suchutepeques comes into the City North-west-ward, which is a wide, open and sandy rode; if it be taken by Chiapa, it lieth North-east, and entreth into the City between the mountaines, as before hath been noted. West-ward to the South-sea the way lieth open through the valley and a champaigne Countrey. But South or South-East, the entrance is over high and steepy hils, which is the common Rode from Comayagua, Nicaragua, and the Golfo dulce or sweet Gulfe, where the ships come yeerly and unlade all the Commodities which are brought from Spaine for Guatemala. This also is the way followed by them who take a journey meer East-ward from this City. But the chiefest mountaines, which straighten in this City and valley are two, called Vulcanes, the one being a Vulcan of water, and the other a Vulcan or mountain of fire, termed so by the Spaniards, though very improperly a Vulcan may be said to containe water, it taking its name from the heathenish God Vulcan, whose profession and imployment chiefly was in fire. These two famous mountaines stand almost the one over against the other, on each side of the valley; that of water hanging on the South-side almost perpendicularly over the City, the other of fire standing lower from it, more opposite to the old City. That of water is higher then the other, and yeelds a goodly prospect to the sight, being almost all the yeer green, and full of Indian Milpa’s, which are plantations of Indian wheat; and in the small and petty Townes which lie some halfe way up it, some at the foot of it, there are Roses, Lillies, and other flowers all the yeer long in the gardens, besides Plantins, Apricockes, and many sorts of sweet and delicate fruits. It is called by the Spaniards, el Vulcan del agua, or the Vulcan of water, because on the other side of it from Guatemala it springs with many brookes towards a Towne called Saint Christopher, and especially is thought to preserve and nourish on that side also a great lake of fresh water, by the Townes called Amatitlan and Petapa. But on the side of it towards Guatemala and the valley it yeelds also so many springs of sweet and fresh water, as have caused and made a river which runneth along the valley close by the City, and is that which drives the water-mills spoken of before in Xocotenango. This river was not known when first the Spaniards conquered that Country; but since, according to their constant Tradition, the City of Guatemala standing higher and neerer to the Vulcan in that place and Town which to this day is called la Ciudad Vieja, or the old City, there lived in it then about the yeer 1534. a Gentlewoman called Donna Maria de Castilia, who having lost her husband in the warres, and that same yeer buried also all her children, grew so impatient under these her crosses and afflictions, that impiously she defied God, saying, What can God do more unto me now then he hath done? he hath done his worst without it be to take away my life also, which I now regard not. Upon these words there gushed out of this Vulcan such a flood of water as carried away this woman with the streame, ruined many of the houses, and caused the inhabitants to remove to the place where now standeth Guatemala. This is the Spaniards own Tradition, which if true, should be our example to learne to feare and not to defie God, when his judgements shew him to us angry and a God that will overcome, when he judgeth. From that time, and from this their Tradition is the Towne now standing where first stood Guatemala, called la Ciudad Vieja, or the old City, and hath continued a river which before was not knowne, having its head and spring from this high Vulcan, whose pleasant springs, gardens, fruits, flowers and every green and flourishing prospect might be a fair object to a Martials wit, who here would fancie a new Parnassus, find out new steps of flying Pegasus, and greet the Nymphes and nine Sisters with this their never yet discovered and American habitation. This Vulcan or mountaine is not so pleasing to the sight (whose height is judged full nine miles unto the top) but the other which standeth on the other side of the valley opposite unto it, is unpleasing and more dreadfull to behold, for here are ashes for beauty, stones and flints for fruits and flowers, baldnesse for greennesse, barrennesse for fruitfulnesse, for water whisperings and fountaine murmurs, noise of thunders and roaring of consuming metals, for running streams, flashings of fire, for tall and mighty trees and Cedars, Castles of smoak rising in height to out-dare the skie and firmament, for sweet and odoriferous and fragrant smels, a stink of fire and brimstone, which are stil in action striving within the bowels of that ever burning and fiery Vulcan. Thus is Guatemala seated in the midst of a Paradise on the one side and a hell on the other, yet never hath this hell broke so loose as to consume that flourishing City. True it is formerly many yeers agoe it opened a wide mouth on the top, and breathed out such fiery ashes as filled the houses of Guatemala and the Country about, and parched all the plants and fruits, and spued out such stones and rockes which had they fallen upon the City would have crushed it to pieces, but they fell not farre from it, but to this day lie about the bottome and sides of it, causing wonder to those that behold them, and taking away admiration from them that admire the force and strength of fire and powder in carrying on a weighty bullet from the mouth of a cannon, whereas here the fire of this mountaine hath cast up into the aire and tumbled downe to the bottom of it such rockes as in bignesse exceed a reasonable house, and which not the strength of any twenty Mules (as hath been tried) have been able to remove. The fire which flasheth out of the top of this mountain is sometimes more and sometimes lesse; yet while I lived in the City, on a certaine time for the space of three or foure dayes and nights it did so burne that my friend Mr. Cabannas confidently avouched to mee and others, that standing one night in his window he had with the light of that fire read a letter, the distance being above three English miles. The roaring also of this monstrous beast is not constantly alike, but is greater in the summer time then in the winter, that is, from October to the end of April, then all the rest of the yeer; for then it seems, the winds entring into those concavities set the fire on work harder then at other times, and cause the mountaine to roare and the earth about to quake. There was a time three yeers before my comming to that City, when the inhabitants expected nothing but utter ruine and destruction, and durst not abide within their houses for nine dayes (the earthquakes continuing and increasing more and more) but made bowers and arbours in the Market place, placing there their Idoll Saints and Images, especially St. Sebastian, whom they hoped would deliver them from that judgement, and for this purpose they dayly carried him through the streets in solemn and idolatrous procession and adoration. But all the while I lived there the noise within the mountaine, the smoake and flashes of fire without, and the Summer earth-quakes were such that with the use and custome of them I never feared any thing, but thought that City the healthiest and pleasantest place of dwelling that ever I came into in all my travels. The climate is very temperate, farre exceeding either Mexico or Guaxaca. Neither are the two fore-named Cities better stored with fruits, herbes for salets, provision of fish, and flesh, Beef, Mutton, Veale, Kid, Fowles, Turkies, Rabbets, Quailes, Partridges, Pheasants, and of Indian and Spanish Wheat, then is this City: from the South Sea (which lyeth in some places not above twelve leagues from it) and from the Rivers of the South Sea Coast, and from the fresh Lake of Amatitlan and Petapa, and from another Lake lying three or foure leagues from Chimalienango; it is well and plentifully provided for of fish. But for Beef there is such plenty, that it exceeds all parts of America, without exception, as may be known by the Hydes, which are sent yeerly to Spain from the country of Guatemala, where they commonly kill their Cattell, more for the game of their Hydes in Spain, then for the goodnesse or fatnesse of the flesh, which though it bee not to bee compared to our English Beef, yet it is good mans meat, and so cheap, that in my time it was commonly sold at thirteene pound and a halfe for half a Riall, the least coyne there, and as much as three pence here. Though all about this Country there are very great and spatious Estancia’s, or Farmes for breeding onely, even neer to the Golfo Dulce, where the ships ride that come from Spain, yet from Comayagua, St. Salvador and Nicaragua, is Guatemala stored; But above all are the great Estancia’s in the South Sea Coast or Marsh, where in my time there was a Grazier that reckoned up going in his owne Estancia and ground, forty thousand heads of Beasts, small and great, besides many which are called there Simarrones, or wild Cattell, which were strayed among the Woods and Mountaines, and could not bee gathered in with the rest, but were hunted by the Blackmores like wild Bores, and daily shot to death, least they should too much increase and doe hurt. My selfe chanced to bee present at the Fair of the Town of Petapa, with a friend named Lope de Chaves, (who was as they call there, Obligado, or charged to provide flesh for six or seven Townes thereabouts) who at one bargain, and of one man, bought six thousand head of Cattell, great and small, paying one with another eighteen Rials, or nine English shillings a head.
The manner and custome of Guatemala for the better providing both Beef and Mutton for it, and the Country Townes about, is this. Nine daies before Michaelmas, every day Proclamation is made about the City for an Obligado, or one that will bee bound to the City and Country for competent provision of Flesh meat upon forfeiture of such a summe of money to his Majesty, if hee faile, as shall bee agreed upon between him and the Court, and to the Inhabitants of the City; if hee fail in beef, hee is to allow in Mutton so many pounds at the same rate as hee should have allowed beef. If the Obligado faile in Mutton, hee is to allow in Fowle flesh, so many pounds and at the same rate as hee was to allow the Mutton; and this with consideration of the family, what competent allowance of flesh meat shall bee judged for a day, or the dayes that the Obligado shall fail. Besides this the Proclamation is made for whom offers most to his Majesty for one yeers Obligation. So that sometimes it happeneth that the eight daies severall men come into the Court, offering more and more, till upon the ninth day and last Proclamation, the Office is setled for one yeere upon him that hath offered most unto his Majesty. Thus many Butchers are not allowed but one onely Obligado, who also is abridged to so many pound for so much mony, so that if any other besides him offer to kill or sell, he may follow an action and the Court against him: Thus the Obligado (who commonly is a monied man) buyeth by the hundred or by the thousand, as for the present hee findeth the expence of the City, without hee bee himself such a Grazier, as hath Cattell enough of his owne. Though Mutton bee not so plentifull as is Beef, yet there never wants from the Valley of Mixco, Pinola, Petapa, and Amatitlan, and the Marsh and other places. In the Valley fore-named I lived, and was well acquainted with one Alonso Capata, who had constantly going in the Valley four thousand sheep. Guatemala therefore is so well stored with good provision, plentifull and cheap, that it is hard to finde in it a begger, for with halfe a Riall the poorest may buy beef for a weeke, and with a few Cacao’s they may have bread of Indian Maiz, if not of Spanish Wheat. This City may consist of about five thousand families, besides a Suburb of Indians called el Barrio de Sto. Domingo, where may bee two hundred families more. The best part of the City is that which joyneth to this Suburb of Indians, and is called also el Barrio Santo de Domingo, by reason of the Cloister of Saint Dominick which standeth in it. Here are the richest and best shops of the City, with the best buildings, most of the houses being new, and stately. Here is also a dayly Tianguez (as they call it) or petty Market, where some Indians all the day sit selling fruits, Herbs, and Cacao, but at the foure in the afternoone, this Market is filled for a matter of an houre, where the Indian women meet to sell their Country slap, (which is dainties to the Criolians) as Atolle, Pinole, scalded Plantins, butter of the Cacao, puddings made of Indian Maiz, with a bit of Fowle or fresh Porke in them seasoned with much red biting Chile, which they call Anacatamales. The trading of the City is great, for by Mules it partakes of the best commodities of Mexico, Guaxaca and Chiapa, and Southward of Nicaragua, and Costarica. By Sea it hath commerce with Peru, by two Sea Ports and Havens, the one called la Villa de la Trinidad, the Village of the Trinity, which lyeth Southward from it five and twenty leagues; and by another called el Realejo, which lyeth five or six and forty leagues from it. It hath traffique with Spain by the North Sea from Golfo dulce, lying threescore leagues from it. It is not so rich as other Cities, yet for the quantity of it, it yeelds to none. There were in my time five (besides many other Merchants who were judged worth twenty thousand Duckats, thirty thousand, fifty thousand, some few a hundred thousand) who were judged of equall wealth, and generally reported to bee worth each of them five hundred thousand Duckats; the first was Thomas de Siliezer, a Biscain born, and Alcalde de Corte, the Kings High Justice, or chief Officer at Court; the second was Antonio Justiniano, a Genovois born, and one that bore often Offices in the City, and had many Tenements and houses, especially a great and rich Farme for corn and Wheat in the Valley of Mexico. The third was Pedro de Lira, born in Castilia, the fourth and fifth, Antonio Fernandez, and Bartolome Nunnez, both Portingals, whereof the first in my time departed from Guatemala for some reasons which here I must conceale. The other foure I left there, the three of them living at that end of the City called Barrio de Santo Domingo, or the street of St. Dominick, whose houses and presence makes that street excell all the rest of the City, and their wealth and trading were enough to denominate Guatemala a very rich City. The Government of all the Country about, and of all Honduras, Soconusco, Comayagua, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Vera Paz, Suchutepeques, and Chiapa, is subordinate unto the Chancery of Guatemala; for although every Governour over these severall Provinces is appointed by the King and Councell of Spain, yet when they come to those parts to the enjoyment of their charge and execution office, then their actions, if unjust, are weighed, judged, censured, and condemned by the Court residing in the City. This Court of Chancery consisteth of a President, six Judges, one Kings Attourney, and two chief Justices of Court. The President, though hee have not the name and title of Viceroy, as they of Mexico and Peru, yet his power is as great and absolute as theirs. His Pension from the King is but twelve thousands Duckats a yeer; but besides this, if he be covetous, hee makes by bribes and trading twice as much more, nay what hee list, as was seen in the Count de la Gomera, President of that City and Chancery for the space of fourteen yeers, who departed in old age from Guatemala to Canaria (where was his house and place of birth) worth Millions of Duckats. After him succeeded Don Juan de Guzman, formerly President of Santo Domingo, who losing his Wife and Lady in the way, lost also his former spirit and courage, betaking himselfe wholly to his devotions, contemning wealth and riches, governing with love and mildnesse, which made the rest of the Judges, who were all for lucre, soone weary him out of his office, continuing in it but five yeers. His successor (whom I left there when I came away) was Don Gonzalo de Paz y Lorencana, who was promoted from the Presidency of Panama to that place, and came into it with such a spirit of covetousnesse as the like had not been seen in any former President. Hee forbad all gaming in private houses in the City, which there is much used (though by women not so much as in Mexico) not for that hee hated it, but because hee envied others, what they got and gained by their Cards, drawing to himselfe thereby all that gaine, spending sometimes in one night foure and twenty paire of Cards, appointing a Page to assist at the Tables, and to see the box well paid for every paire of Cards, which for his, and his Court respect, was seldome lesse then a crown or two for every paire. Thus did hee lick up with his Cards most of the gamesters gaines, and would grudge and pick quarrels with such rich men whom hee knew to affect gaming, if they frequented not his Court at night time for that bewitching Recreation.
The Pension which the King alloweth to every Judge of Chancery is foure thousand duckats yeerly, and three thousand to his Attorney, all which is paid out of the Kings Exchequer abiding in that City. Yet what besides they get by bribes, and trading is so much, that I have heard a Judge himselfe Don Luis de las Infantas say, that though a Judges place at Mexico and Lima be more honourable, yet none more profitable then Guatemala. In my time were such causes at Chancery tried, as had never been, of murthers, robberies, and oppressions, and whereas it was expected the offendants some should be hanged, some banished, some imprisoned, some by fines impoverished, bribes took all off, so that I never knew one hanged in that City for the space of above eight yeers. The Churches though they be not so fair and rich as those of Mexico, yet they are for that place wealthy enough. There is but one Parish Church and a Cathedrall which standeth in the chiefe Market-place. All the other Churches belong to Cloisters, which are of Dominicans, Franciscans, Mercenarians, Augustines, and Jesuites, and two of Nuns, called the Conception and St. Catharine. The Dominicans, Franciscans, and Mercenarians are stately Cloisters, containing neer a hundred Friers a piece; but above all is the Cloister where I lived, of the Dominicans, to which is joyned in a great Walk before the Church the Universitie of the City. The yeerly revenues which come into this Cloister, what from the Indian Towns belonging to it, what from a water-mill, what from a farme for corne, what from an Estancia, or farme for Horses and Mules, what from an Ingenio, or farme of Sugar, what from a Mine of silver given unto it the yeer 1633. are judged to be (excepting all charges) at least thirty thousand duckats; wherewith those fat Friers feast themselves, and have to spare to build, and enrich their Church and Altars. Besides much treasure belonging to it, there are two things in it, which the Spaniards in merriment would often tell me that the English nation did much inquire after, when they tooke any ship of theirs at sea, and that they feared I was come to spie them, which were a Lampe of silver hanging before the high Altar, so big as required the strength of three men to hale it up with a rope; but the other is of more value; which is a picture of the Virgin Mary of pure silver, and of the stature of a reasonable tall woman, which standeth in a Tabernacle made on purpose in a Chappel of the Rosary with at least a dozen lampes of silver also burning before it. A hundred thousand duckats might soone be made up of the treasure belonging to that Church and cloister. Within the walls of the Cloister there is nothing wanting which may further pleasure and recreation. In the lower Cloister there is a spatious garden, in the midst whereof is a fountains casting up the water, and spouting it out of at least a dozen pipes, which fill two ponds full of fishes, and with this their constant running give musicke to the whole Cloister, and encouragement to many water-fowles and Ducks to bath and wash themselves therein. Yet further within the Cloister, there are other two gardens for fruits and herbage, and in the one a pond of a quarter of a mile long, all paved at the bottom, and a low stone wall about, where is a boat for the Friers recreation, who often goe thither to fish, and doe sometimes upon a suddaine want or occasion take out from thence as much fish as will give to the whole Cloister a dinner. The other Cloisters of the City are also rich; but next to the Dominicans is the Cloister of Nuns, called the Conception, in which at my time there were judged to live a thousand women, not all Nuns, but Nuns, and their serving maids or slaves, and yong children which were brought up and taught to worke by the Nuns. The Nuns that are professed bring with them their portions, five hundred duckats the least, some six hundred, some seven, and some a thousand, which portions after a few yeers (and continuing to the Cloister after the Nuns decease) come to make up a great yeerly rent. They that will have maids within to wait on them may, bringing the bigger portion, or allowing yeerly for their servants diet. In this Cloister lived that Donna Juana de Maldonado Judge Juan Maldonado de Paz his daughter, whom the Bishop so much conversed withall. She was very fair and beautifull, and not much above twenty yeers of age, and yet his love blinding him, he strove what he could in my time against all the ancient Nuns and Sisters, to make her Superiour and Abbesse, and caused such a mutiny and strife in that Cloister, which was very scandalous to the whole City, and made many rich Merchants and Gentlemen run to the Cloister with their swords drawne, threatning to breake in amongst the Nuns to defend their daughters against the powerfull faction which the Bishop had wrought for Donna Juana de Maldonado: which they had performed if the President Don Juan de Guzman had not sent Juan Maldonado de Paz, the yong Nuns father, to intreat her to desist in regard of her yong age from her ambitious thoughts or being Abbesse. With this the mutiny both within and without ceased, the Bishop got but shame, and his yong Sister continued as before under command and obedience, to a more religious, grave, and aged Nun then her selfe. This Donna Juana de Maldonado y Paz was the wonder of all that Cloister, yea of all the City for her excellent voice, and skill in musicke, and in carriage, and education yeelded to none abroad nor within; she was witty, well spoken and above all a Calliope, or Muse for ingenious and suddain verses; which the Bishop said, so much moved him to delight in her company and conversation. Her father thought nothing too good, nor too much for her; and therefore having no other children, he daily conferred upon her riches, as might best beseem a Nun, as rich and costly Cabinets faced with gold and silver, pictures and Idols for her chamber with crownes and jewels to adorne them; which with other presente from the Bishop (who dying in my time left not wherewith to pay his debts, for that as the report went, he had spent himselfe and given all unto this Nun) made this Donna Juana de Maldonado so rich and stately, that at her owne charges shee built for herselfe a new quarter within the Cloister with roomes and galleries, and a private garden-walke, and kept at worke and to wait on her halfe a dozen Black-more maids; but above all she placed her delight in a private Chappel or Closet to pray in, being hung with rich hangings, and round about it costly lamina’s (as they call them) or pictures painted upon brasse set in blacke Ebony frames with corners of gold, some of silver brought to her from Rome; her Altar was accordingly decked with Jewels, Candlesticks, Crownes, Lamps, and covered with a Canopie embroidered with gold; in her Closet she had her small organ, and many sorts of musicall instruments, whereupon she played sometimes by herselfe, sometimes with her best friends of the Nuns; and here especially she entertained with musicke her beloved the Bishop. Her Chappel or place of devotion was credibly reported about the City to be worth at least six thousand Crownes, which was enough for a Nun that had vowed chastity, poverty, and obedience. But all this after her decease she was to leave to the Cloister; and doubtlesse with this State, and riches she would win more and more the hearts of the common sort of Nuns, till she had made a strong party, which by this may have made her Abbesse. Thus is ambition and desire of command and power crept into the walls of Nunneries, like the abominations in the wall of Ezekiel, and hath possessed the hearts of Nuns, which should be humble, poore, and mortified Virgins.
But besides this one Nun, there are many more, and also Friers, who are very rich, for if the City be rich (as is this) and great trading in it, they will be sure to have a share. Great plenty and wealth hath made the inhabitants as proud and vicious, as are those of Mexico. Here is not onely Idolatry, but Fornication and uncleannesse as publike as in any place of the India’s: The Mulatto’s, Black-mores, Mestica’s, Indians, and all common sort of people are much made on by the greater and richer sort, and goe as gallantly apparrelled as doe those of Mexico, fearing neither a Vulcan or mountaine of water on the one side, which they confesse hath once powred out a flood and river executing Gods wrath against sin there committed; neither a Vulcan of fire, or mouth of hell on the other side, roaring within and threatning to raine upon them Sodoms ruine and destruction; neither the weakness of their habitation; lying wide open on every side, without walls, or workes, or bulwarkes, to defend them, or without guns, drakes, bullets, or any Ammunition to scare away an approaching enemy, who may safely come and without resistance upon them who live as professed enemies of Jesus Christ. This is the City of St. James or Santiago de Guatemala, the head of a vaste and ample Dominion, which extendeth it selfe nine hundred miles to Nicoya and Costa Rica South-ward; three hundred miles to Chiapa and Zoques North-ward; a hundred and fourescore miles to the further parts of Vera Paz, and the Golfo dulce East-ward; and to the South-sea twenty or thirty, in some places fourty miles West-ward.
From Tecoantepeque (which is no harbour for any great ships) which standeth from Guatemala at least foure hundred miles, there is no landing place for ships neerer to this City then is the village de la Trinidad, or of the Trinity. The chiefe commodities which from along that coast are brought to Guatemala, are from the Provinces of Soconuzco and Suchutepeques, which are extreame hot, and subject to thunder and lightning, where groweth scarce any remarkeable commodity, save only Cacao, Achiotte, Mechasuchil, Bainillas and other drugs for Chocolatte, except it be some Indigo and Cochinil about St. Antonio, which is the chiefe and head Town of all the Suchutepeques. But all the coast neer joyning to Guatemala, especially about a Towne called Izquinta, or Izquintepeque twelve leagues from Guatemala, is absolutely the richest part of the Dominion of this City; for there is made the greatest part of the Indigo which is sent from Honduras to Spaine, besides the mighty farmes of Cattel which are all along that marsh. Though the living there be profitable and the soile rich, yet it is uncomfortable by reason of the great heat, thundrings and lightnings, especially from May to Michaelmas. If Guatemala be strong (though not in weapons or Ammunition) in people, it is strong from hence from a desperate sort of Black-mores, who are slaves in those Estancia’s and farms of Indigo. Though they have no weapons but a Machette, which is a short Tuck, or lances to run at the wild Cattel, yet with these they are so desperate, that the City of Guatemala hath often been afraid of them, and the Masters of their owne slaves and servants. Some of them feare not to encounter a Bull though wild and mad, and to graple in the rivers (which are many there) with Crocodiles, or Lagarto’s, as there they call them, till they have overmastered them, and brought them out to land from the water.
This hot, but rich Country runnes on by the Sea side unto the Village of the Trinity, which (though somewhat dangerous) yet is a haven for ships from Panama, Peru, and Mexico; It serves to enrich Guatemala, but not to strengthen it, for it hath neither Fort, nor Bulwarke, nor Castle, nor any Ammunition to defend it selfe. Between this Village and the other Haven called Realejo, there is a great Creek from the Sea; where small vessels doe use to come in for fresh water and Victuals to St. Miguel a Towne of Spaniards and Indians, from whence those that travaile to Realejo passe over in lesse then a day to a Town of Indians called La Vieja, two miles from Realejo, whither the journey by land from St. Miguel is of at least three daies. But neither this Creeke or Arme of the Sea is fortified (which might be done with one or two peeces of Ordnance at most placed at the mouth of the seas entrance) neither is the Realejo strong with any Ammunition, no nor with people, for it consists not of above two hundred families, and most of them are Indians and Mestico’s, a people of no courage, and very unfit to defend such an open passage to Guatemala and Nicaragua, which here begins and continues in small and petty Indian Townes unto Leon and Granada.
On the North side of Guatemala I shall not need to adde to what hath been said of Suchutepeques and Soconuzco, and my journy that way from Mexico and Chiapa. The chiefe side of Guatemala is that on the East, which points out the way to the Golfe, or Golfo dulce, or as others call it St. Thomas de Castilia. This way is more beaten by Mules and Travellers, then that on the North side, for that Mexico standeth three hundred leagues from this City, and the Golfe but threescore, and no such passages as are in some places in the Rode to Mexico. Besides the great trading, commerce, and traffique, which this City injoyeth by that Golfe from Spaine, hath made that rode exceed all the rest. In July or at furthest in the beginning of August come into that Golfe three ships, or two, and frigate, and unlade what they have brought from Spain in Bodega’s or great Lodges, built on purpose to keep dry and from the weather the commodities. They presently make hast to lade againe from Guatemala those Merchants commodities of returne, which peradventure have lien waiting for them in the Bodega’s two or three moneths before the ships arrivall. So that these three moneths of July, August and September, there is sure to be found a great treasure. And O the simplicity or security of the Spaniards, who appoint no other watch over these their riches, save only one or two Indians and as many Mulatto’s, who commonly are such as have for their misdemeanours been condemned to live in that old and ruinated Castle of S. Thomas de Castilia! True it is, above it there is a little and ragged Town of Indians, called S. Pedro, consisting of some thirty families, who by reason of the exceeding heat, and unhealthinesse of the air, are alwaies sickly and scarce able to stand upon their legs. But the weakenesse of this Golfe within might well bee remedied and supplyed at the mouth of the sea, or entrance into it by one or two at the most good peeces of Ordnance placed there. For the entrance into this Golfe is but as one should come in at the doore of some great Palace, where although the dore and entrance be narrow, the house within is wide and capacious. Such is this Golfe, whose entrance is straitned with two rocks or mountaines on each side (which would well become two great Peeces, and so scorne a whole fleet, and secure a Kingdome of Guatemala, nay most of all America) but here being no watch nor defence, the ships come freely and safely in (as have done some both English and Holland ships) and being entred find a rode and harbour so wide and capacious as may well secure a thousand ships there riding at anchor, without any thought of feare from St. Pedro, or Santo Thomas de Castilia. I have often heard the Spaniards jear and laugh at the English and Hollanders, for that they having come into this Golfe, have gone away without attempting any thing further upon the land. Nay while I lived there, the Hollanders set upon Truxillo the head Port of Comayagua and Honduras, and tooke it (though there were some resistance) the people for the most part flying to the woods, trusting more to their feet then to their hands and weapons (such cowards is all that Countrey full of) and whilst they might have fortified themselves there and gone into the Countrey, or fortifying that have come on to the Golfe (all Guatemala fearing it much and not being able to resist them) they left Truxillo contenting themselves with a small pillage, and gave occasion to the Spaniards to rejoyce and to make processions of thanksgiving for their safe deliverance out of their enemies hands.
The way from this Golfe to Guatemala is not so bad as some report and conceive, especially after Michaelmas untill May, when the winter and rain is past and gone, and the winds begin to dry up the waies. For in the worst of the yeer Mules laden with four hundred waight at least goe easily thorow the steepest, deepest, and most dangerous passages of the mountaines that lie about this Golfe. And though the waies are at that time of the yeer bad, yet they are so beaten with the Mules, and so wide and open, that one bad step and passage may be avoided for a better; and the worst of this way continues but fifteen leagues, there being Rancho’s, or Lodges in the way, Cattel and Mules also among the woods and mountaines, for reliefe and comfort to a weary Traveller. What the Spaniards most feare untill they come out of these mountaines, are some two or three hundred Black-mores, Simarrones, who for too much hard usage, have fled away from Guatemala and other parts from their Masters unto these woods, and there live and bring up their children and encrease daily, so that all the power of Guatemala, nay all the Countrey about (having often attempted it) is not able to bring them under subjection. These often come out to the rode way, and set upon the Requa’s of Mules, and take of Wine, Iron, clothing and weapons from them as much as they need, without doing any harme unto the people, or slaves that goe with the Mules; but rather these rejoyce with them, being of one colour, and subject to slavery and misery which the others have shaken off; by whose example and encouragement many of these also shake off their misery, and joyne with them to enjoy libertie, though it be but in the woods and mountaines. Their weapons are bowes and arrows which they use and carry about them, onely to defend themselves, if the Spaniards set upon them; else they use them not against the Spaniards, who travell quietly and give them part of what provision they carry. These have often said that the chiefe cause of their flying to those mountaines is to be in a readinesse to joyne with the English or Hollanders, if ever they land in that Golfe; for they know, from them they may injoy that liberty which the Spaniards will never grant unto them. After the first fifteen leagues the way is better, and there are little Towns and villages of Indians, who relieve with provision both man and beast. Fifteen leagues further is a great Town of Indians, called Acasabastlan, standing upon a river, which for fish is held the best all that Country. Though here are many sorts, yet above all there is one which they call Bobo, a thick round fish as long or longer then a mans arme, with onely a middle bone, as white as milke, at fat as butter, and good to boil, fry, stew or bake. There is also from hence most of the way to Guatemala in brooks and shallow rivers, one of the best sort of fishes in the world, which the Spaniards judge to be a kind of Trout, it is called there Tepemechin, the fat whereof resembles veal more than fish.
This Towne of Acasabastlan is governed by a Spaniard who is called Corrigidor; his power extendeth no farther then to the Golfe, and to those Townes in the way. This Governour hath often attempted to bring in those Simarrones from the mountaines, but could never prevaile against them. All the strength of this place may bee some twenty muskets (for so many Spanish houses there may bee in the Towne) and some few Indians that use bowes and arrowes, for the defence of the Town against the Blackmore Simarrones.
About Acasabastlan, there are many Estancia’s of Cattell and Mules, much Cacao, Achiotte, and drugs for Chocolatte; There is also Apothecary drugs, as Zarzaparilla, and Canna fistula, and in the Town as much variety of fruits and gardens, as in any one Indian Town in the Country; But above all Acasabastlan, is farre known, and much esteemed of in the City of Guatemala, for excellent Muskmillians, some small, some bigger then a mans head, wherewith the Indians load their mules and carry them to sell all over the Country. From hence to Guatemala, there are but thirty short leagues, and though some hills there be, ascents and descent, yet nothing troublesome to man or beast. Among these Mountaines there have beene discovered some mines of metall, which the Spaniards have begun to digge, and finding that they have been some of Copper, and some of iron, they have let them alone, judgeing them more chargeable then profitable. But greater profit have the Spaniards lost, then of iron and copper, for using the poore Indians too hardly, and that in this way, from Acasabastlan to Guatemala, especially about a place called, el Agua Caliente, the hot water, where is a River, out of which in some places formerly the Indians found such store of gold, that they were charged by the Spaniards with a yeerly tribute of gold. But the Spaniards being like Valdivia in Chille, too greedy after it, murthering the Indians for not discovering unto them whereabout this treasure lay, have lost both treasure and Indians also. Yet unto this day search is made about the Mountaines, the River, and the sands for the hidden treasure, which peradventure by Gods order and appointment, doth and shall lie hide, and kept for a people better knowing and honouring their God. At this place called el Agua Caliente, or the hot water, liveth a Blackmore in an Estancia of his own, who is held to be very rich, and gives good entertainement to the Travellers that passe that way; he is rich in Cattell, Sheep, and Goates, and from his Farm stores Guatemala and the people thereabout with the best Cheese of all that Country. But his riches are thought not so much to increase from his Farm and cheeses, but from this hidden treasure, which credibly is reported to be known unto him. He hath been questioned about it in the Chancery of Guatemala, but hath denyed often any such treasure to be known unto him. The jealousie and suspicion of him, is, for that formerly having been a slave, hee bought his freedome with great summes of money, and since hee hath been free, hath bought that farm and much land lying to it, and hath exceedingly increased his stock; To which hee answereth, that when hee was young and a slave, hee had a good Master, who let him get for himself what hee could, and that hee playing the good husband, gathered as much as would buy his liberty, and at first a little house to live in, to the which God hath since given a blessing with a greater increase of stock. From this hot water three or foure leagues, there is another River called, Rio de las Vaccas, or the River of Cowes, where are a company of poore and country people most of them Mestizo’s, and Mulatto’s, who live in thatched houses, with some small stock of Cattell, spending their time also in searching for sands of Gold, hoping that one day by their diligent search they and their children, and all their Country shall bee inriched, and that Rio de las Vaccas, shall parallel Pactolus, and stirre up the wits of Poets to speak of it as much as ever they have spoke of that. From this River is presently discovered the pleasantest valley in all that Country, (where my selfe did live at least five yeers) called the Valley of Mixco, and Pinola, lying six leagues from Guatemala, being fifteen miles in length, and ten or twelve in breadth; Out of the inclosures this Valley is stored with sheep; the ground inclosed is divided into many Farmes, where groweth better wheat then any in the Country of Mexico. From this Valley the city is well provided of wheat, and Bisket is made for the ships that come every yeere unto the Golf. It is called the Valley of Mixco, and Pinola from two Townes of Indians, so called, standing opposite the one to the other on each side of the Valley, Pinola, on the left side from Rio de las Vaccas, and Mixco on the right. Here do live many rich Farmers, but yet Country and clownish people, who know more of breaking clods of earth, then of managing Armes offensive or defensive. But among them I must not forget one friend of mine, called Juan Palomeque, whom I should have more esteemed of then I did if I could have prevailed with him to have made him live more like a man then a beast, more like a free man then a bond slave to his gold and silver. This man had in my time three hundred lusty mules trained up in the way of the Golf, which hee divided into six Requa’s, or companies, and for them he kept above a hundred Black-more slaves, men, women, and children, who lived neer Mixco in severall thatched cottages. The house he lived in himselfe was but a poore thatched house, wherein he tooke more delight to live then in other houses which he had in Guatemala, for there hee lived like a wilde Simarron among his slaves and Black-mores, whereas in the City he should have lived civilly; there he lived with milke, curds, and blacke, hard and mouldy bisket, and with a dry tassajo, which is dry salted beefe cut out in thinne slices, and dryed in the sun and wind, till there be little substance left in it, such as his slaves were wont to cary to the Golfe for their provision by the way, whereas if he had lived in the City, he must have eat for his credit what others of worth did eat. But the miser knew well, which was the best way to save, and so chose a field for a City, a cottage for a house, company of Simarrones and Black-mores for Citizens, and yet he was thought to be worth six hundred thousand duckats. He was the undoer of all others who dealed with Mules for bringing and carrying commodities to the Golfe for the Merchants; for he having lusty Mules, lusty slaves, would set the price or rate for the hundred weight so, as he might get, but others at that rate hiring Indians and servants to goe with their Mules, might lose. He was so cruell to his Black-mores, that if any were untoward, he would torment them almost to death; amongst whom he had one slave called Macaco (for whom I have often interceded, but to little purpose) whom he would often hang up by the armes, and whip him till the blood ran about his back, and then his flesh being torne, mangled, and all in a goar blood, he would for last cure powre boyling grease upon it; he had marked him for a slave with burning irons upon his face, his hands, his armes, his back, his belly, his thighes, his legs, that the poor slave was weary of life, and I thinke would two or three times have hanged himselfe, if I had not counselled him to the contrary. He was so sensuall and carnall that he would use his own slaves wives at his pleasure; nay when he met in the City any of that kind handsome and to his liking, if she would not yeeld to his desire, he would goe to her master or mistresse, and buy her, offering far more then she was worth, boasting that he would pull downe her proud and haughty lookes, with one yeers slavery under him. He killed in my time two Indians in the way to the Golfe, and with his mony came off, as if he had killed but a dog. He would never marry, because his slaves supplyed the bed of a wife, and none of his neighbours durst say him nay; whereby he hasted to fill that valley with bastards of all sorts and colours, by whom, when that rich miser dieth, all his wealth and treasure is like to be consumed.
Besides the two Townes which denominate this valley, there standeth at the East end of it close by the Rio de las Vaccas an Ermitage, called Nostra Sennora del Carmel, or our Lady of Carmel, which is the Parish Church to all those severall farmes of Spaniards living in the valley; though true it is, most constantly they doe resort unto the Indian Townes to Masse, and in Mixco especially, the Spaniards have a rich sodality of our Lady of the Rosary, and the Black-mores another. In all the valley there may be between fourty and fifty Spanish farmes or houses belonging to the Ermitage, and in all these houses, some three hundred slaves, men and women, Black-mores and Mulatto’s. Mixco is a town of three hundred families, but in it nothing considerable, but the riches belonging unto the two forenamed Sodalities, and some rich Indians, who have learned of the Spaniards to break clods of earth, and to sow wheat, and to traffique with Mules unto the Golfe. Besides what fowles and great store of Turkeys which in this Towne are bred, there is a constant slaughter house, where meat is sold to the Indians within, and to the farmes without, and provision is made for all the Requa’s and slaves that go to the Golfe with their masters Mules. Besides the six Requa’s before named of Juan Palomeque, there are in this valley four brothers, named Don Gaspar, Don Diego, Don Thomas, Don Juan de Colindres, who have each of them a Requa of threescore Mules (though few slaves, and onely hired Indians to goe with them) to traffique to the Golfe, and over all the Country as far as Mexico sometimes. Yet besides these there are some six more Requa’s belonging to other farms, which with those of the Towne of Mixco may make up full twenty Requa’s; and those twenty Requa’s containe above a thousand Mules, which only from this valley are imployed to all parts of the Country by the rich Merchants of Guatemala. But to returne againe to the Towne of Mixco, the constant passage thorow it of these Requa’s, of rich Merchants, of all passengers that goe and come from Spain, hath made it very rich; whereas in the Town it self there is no other commodity, except it be a kind of earth, whereof are made rare and excellent pots for water, pans, pipkins, platters, dishes, chafing-dishes, warming-pans, wherein those Indians shew much wit, and paint them with red, white, and severall mingled colours, and sell them to Guatemala, and the Towns about, which some Criolian women will eat by full mouth fulls, endangering their health and lives, so that by this earthly ware they may looke white and pale. The Towne of Pinola in bignesse is much like unto Mixco, but a far pleasanter Town, more healthy and better seated, standing upon a plain, whereas Mixco stands on the side on a hill, which carrieth the Travellers quite out of the sight of the valley. In Pinola there is also a slaughter house, where beef is dayly sold, there is plenty of fowles, Fruits, Maiz, Wheat, (though not altogether so bright as that of Mixco) hony, and the best water thereabouts; it is called in the Indian tongue Panac, (some say) from a fruit of that name which is very abundant there. On the North and South side of this valley are hils, which are most sown with wheat, which proveth better there then in the low valley. At the West end of it, stand two greater Townes then Mixco and Pinola, named Petapa, and Amatitlan, to the which there are in the midst of the valley some descents and ascents, which they call Baranca’s or bottomes, where are pleasant streames and fountaines, and good feeding for sheep, and Cattel.
Petapa is a Towne of at least five hundred inhabitants very rich, who suffer also some Spaniards to dwell amongst them, from whom also those Indians have learned to live and thrive in the world. This Towne is the passage from Comayagua, St. Salvador, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica, and hath got great wealth by the constant goers and comers. It is esteemed one of the pleasantest Townes belonging unto Guatemala, for a great Lake of fresh water neer unto it, which is full of fish, especially crabs, and a fish called, Mojarra, which is much like unto a mullet (though not altogether so big) and eateth like it. In this Towne there is a certaine number of Indians appointed, who are to fish for the City, and on Wednesdayes, Fridayes, and Saturdayes, are bound to carry such a quantity to Guatemala, of Crabs and Mojarra’s, as the Corregidor and Regidores, Major and Aldermen (who are but eight) shall command weekly to be brought.
This Towne Petapa is so called from two Indian words, Petap, which signifieth a Mat, and ha, which signifieth water, and a Mat being the chiefe part of an Indians bed, it is as much as to say a bed of water, from the smoothnesse, plainnesse, and calmnesse of the water of the Lake. There liveth in it a principall family of Indians, who are said to descend from the ancient Kings of those parts, and now by the Spaniards are graced with the noble name of Guzman; out of this family is chosen one to be Governour of the Towne with subordination unto the City and Chancery of Guatemala. Don Bernabe de Guzman was Governour in my time, and had been many yeers before, and governed very wisely and discreetly, till with old age he came to loose his sight; and in his place entred his son Don Pedro de Guzman, of whom the rest of the Indians stood in great awe, as formerly they had to his father. Had not these Indians been given to drunkennesse (as most Indians are) they might have governed a Town of Spaniards. This Governour hath many priviledges granted unto him (though none to weare a sword, or rapier, as may the Governour of Chiapa of the Indians) and appoints by turnes some of the Towne to wait and attend on him at dinner and supper, others to looke to his Horses, others to fish for him, others to bring him wood for his house spending, others to bring him meat for his Horses; and yet after all this his attendance, he attends and waits on the Frier that lives in the Towne, and doth nothing concerning the governing of the Towne and executing of justice, but what the Frier alloweth and adviseth to be done. There is also great service appointed for this Frier, of Fishermen, and other attendants in his house, who liveth as stately as any Bishop. Most trades belonging to a well setled Common-wealth are here exercised by these Indians. As for herbage, and garden-fruits, and requisites, it hath whatsoever may be found, or desired in the City of Guatemala. The Church treasure is very great, there being many Sodalities of our Lady and other their Saints, which are enriched with crowns, and chains, and bracelets, besides the lamps, censers, & silver candlesticks belonging unto the Altars. Upon Michaelmas day is the chief fair and feast of the Town, which is dedicated unto St. Michael, whither many Merchants resort from Guatemala to buy and sell; in the afternoon, and the next day following, Bull-baiting is the common sport for that feast with some Spaniards and Blackmores on Horse-backe, and other Indians on foot, who commonly being drunke, some venture, some lose their lives in the sport. Besides this generall concourse of people every yeer at that time, there is every day at five a clock in the afternoone a Tianguez or market, upheld by the concourse of the Indians of the Town among themselves. Besides the lake, there runneth by this Town a river, which in places is easily waded over, and waters the fruits, gardens, and other plantations, and drives a mill which serves most of the valley to grind their wheat. Within a mile and a halfe of this Towne there is a rich Ingenio or farme of Sugar belonging to one Sebastian de Savaletta, a Biscaine borne, who came at first very poore into that Country, and served one of his Country men; but with his good industry and paines, he began to get a Mule or two to traffique with about the Country, till at last he increased his stocke to a whole Requa of Mules, and from thence grew so rich that he bought much land about Petapa, which he found to be very fit for Sugar, and from thence was incouraged to build a princely house, whither the best of Guatemala doe resort for their recreation. This man maketh a great deale of Sugar for the Country, and sends every yeer much to Spaine; he keepeth at least threescore slaves of his own for the worke of his farme, is very generous in house keeping, and is thought to be worth above five hundred thousand Duckats. Within halfe a mile from him there is another farme of Sugar, which is called but a Trapiche belonging unto the Augustin Friers of Guatemala, which keepes some twenty slaves, and is called a Trapiche, for that it grinds not the Sugar Cane with that device of the Ingenio, but grinds a lesse quantity, and so makes not to much Sugar as doth an Ingenio. From hence three miles is the Town of Amatitlan, neer unto which standeth a greater Ingenio of Sugar, then is that of Savaletta, and is called the Ingenio of one Anis, because he first founded it, but now it belongeth unto one Pedro Crespo the Post-master of Guatemala; this Ingenio seemeth to be a little Town by it selfe for the many cottages and thatched houses of Blackmore slaves which belong unto it, who may be above a hundred, men, women, and children. The chiefe dwelling house is strong and capacious, and able to entertain a hundred lodgers. These three farmes of Sugar standing so neer unto Guatemala, enrich the City much, and occasion great trading from it to Spaine. The Town of Amatitlan, though in it there live not so many Spaniards as in Petapa, yet there are in it more Indian families then in Petapa. The streets are more orderly made and framed like a Chequer board, they are wide, broad, plain, and all upon dust and sand. This Towne also enjoyeth the commodity of the lake, and furnisheth with fish the City of Guatemala, upon those daies before named of Petapa. And though it standeth out of the rode-way, yet it is almost as rich as Petapa. For the Indians of it get much by the concourse of common people, and the Gentry of Guatemala, who resort thither to certain bathes of hot waters, which are judged and approved very wholesome for the body. This Towne also getteth much by the salt which here is made, or rather gathered by the lake side, which every morning appeareth like a hoary frost upon the ground, and is taken up and purified by the Indians, and proves very white and good. Besides what they get by the salt, they get also by the Requa’s of Mules in the valley, and about the Country, which are brought to feed upon that salt earth a day, or halfe a day, untill they be ready to burst (the owner paying six pence a day for every Mule) and it hath been found by experience, that this makes them thrive and grow lusty and purgeth them better then any drench, or blood-letting. They have further great trading in Cotton-wool, more abundance of fruits then Petapa, a fairer market place with two extraordinary great Elm-trees, under which the Indians daily meet at evening to buy and sell. The Church of this Towne is as faire and beautifull as any about Guatemala, the riches and state whereof hath caused the Dominican Friers since the yeer 1635, to make that place the head and Priory over the other Townes of the valley, and to build there a goodly and sumptuous Cloister, in which in my time there was (for I told then most of it, and doubtlesse since it hath much increased) eight thousand Duckats laid up in a chest, with three lockes for the common expences of the Cloister. Thus my Reader, I have led thee through the valley of Mixco, and Pinola, Petapa and Amatitlan, which in riches and wealth, what with the great trading in it, what with the sheep & cattell, what with the abundance of mules, what with three Farmes of Sugar, what with the great Farmes of Corn and Wheat, what with the churches treasures yeelds to no other place belonging unto the dominions of Guatemala. I may not forget yet a double wheat harvest (as I may well term it) in this Vally. The first being of a little kinde of Wheat, which they call Trigo Tremesino, a word compounded in Spanish from these two words, tres meses, or from the Latin tres menses, which after three moneths sowing is ripe and ready to be cut down, and being sowed about the end of August, is commonly harvested in about the end of November; and although in the smalnesse of it, it seemes to have but a little Flower, yet it yeelds as much as their other sorts of Wheat, and makes as white bread, though it keep not so well as that which is made of other Wheat, but soone groweth stale and hard. The other harvest (which is of two sorts of Wheat, one called Rubio, or red Wheat, the other called Blanquilleo, or white like Candia Wheat) followeth soon after this first of Tremesino, for presently after Christmas every one begins to bring their sickles into the field, where they doe not onely reap down their Wheat, but in stead of threshing it in barnes, they cause it to bee trod by Mares inclosed within floores made on purpose in the fields; and when the Wheat is trod out of the Eares by the Mares trampling, who are whipped round about the floores that they may not stand still, but tread it constantly and throughly; then the Mares being let out of the floores, the wheat is winnowed from the chaffe, and put up clean into sackes, and from the field carried to the Barnes; but the chaffe and most of the straw is left to rot in the fields, which they esteem as good as dunging; and further set all the fields on fire, burning the stubble that is left a little before the time of the first showers of raine, which with the ashes left after the burning fatteth the ground, and by them is held the best way to husband or dung their ground. Others that will sow a new and woody peece of land, cause the trees, though timber trees to bee cut down, and sell not a stick of that wood, (which there is so plentifull, that they judge it would not quit their cost to carry it to Guatemala, though in England it would yeeld thousand pounds) but they let it lie and dry, and before the winter raine begins, they set on fire all the field, and burn that rich timber, with the ashes whereof that ground becomes so fat and fertile, that where upon an Aker wee sow here three bushels of Wheat, or upwards, they sow such ground so thin, that they scarce dare venture a full bushell upon an Aker, lest with too much spreading upon the ground it grow too thick, bee lodged, and they loose their crop. The like they doe unto the pasture of the Valley; about the end of March, it is short and withered and dry, and they also set it on fire, which being burnt causeth a dismall sight, and prospect of a black valley; but after the first two or three showres, it puts on againe its greene and pleasant garment, inviting the Cattell, Sheep, Lambs, Goats, and Kids, (which for a while were driven away to other pasturing) to return and sport againe, to feed and rest in its new flourishing bosome. But now it is time, I return again back to the other end of this valley, to the Rio de las Vaccas (from whence I have viewed the compasse of it, and made my long digression from East to West, to the farthest Towne of Amatitlan) to shew thee, my Reader, the little part of thy way remaining unto Guatemala. True it is, from the Ermitage of our Lady, there is a streight way through the middle of the valley leading almost to Amatitlan, and then turning up a hill out of the valley on the right hand; But that hath many ascents and descents, bottomes, falls and risings, and therefore is not the constant Rode, which from the Ermitage pointeth on the right hand, observing the Towne of Mixco, standing but five miles from Guatemala, from Mixco the way lyeth up a hill, and leadeth to a Town somewhat bigger then Mixco, of Indians called San Lucas, or St. Luke, a cold Town, but exceeding rich; the temper and coldnesse of it, hath made it the storehouse, or Granary for all the City; for whereas below in the Valley; the Wheat will not keep long without musting, and breeding a worm called Gurgojo, such is the temper of this Town of St. Luke, that in it, the Wheat will keep two or three yeeres ready threshed, with a little turning now and then; and as it lyeth will give and yeeld, (as experience taught mee there) so that he that hath laid up in that Town two hundred bushels of Wheat, at the yeers end shall find neer upon two hundred and twenty bushels. This Towne therefore receives from the Valley most of the harvest, and is full of what wee call Barnes, but there are called Trojas, without floore, but raised up with stackes and bords a foot or two from the ground, and covered with mats, whereon is laid the Wheat, and by some rich Monopolists from the City is kept and hoarded two and three yeers, untill they find their best opportunity to bring it out to sale, at the rate of their own will and pleasure. From hence to Guatemala there is but three little leagues, and one onely Barranca, or bottome, and on every side of the way little petty Townes, which they call Milpas, consisting of some twenty Cottages. In the middle of the way is the top of a hill, which discovereth all the City, and standeth as overmastring of it, as if with a peece or two of Ordnance it would keepe all Guatemala in awe; But besides this hill, which is the wide and open Rode, there stand yet forwarder on the right and left hand other mountaines which draw neerer to the City, and what this top peradventure with too much distance, is not able to doe or reach, the others certainly would reach with Cannon shot, and command that farre commanding City. Downe this hill the way lies broad and wide, and as open as is the way downe Barnet or Highgate Hill; and at the bottome it is more straitned betweene the Mountaines, for the space of a bowshot, which passage also is craggy by reason of stones and some small peeces of rocks which lie in a brook of water that descends from the Mountaines, and runs towards the City. But at a little Ermitage called St. John, the way opens againe itselfe, and sheweth Guatemala, welcoming the weary travellers with a pleasant prospect, and easing theirs, or their mules or horses feet, what with green walkes, what with a sandy and gravelly Rode unto the City, which never shut gate against any goer or comer, nor forbad their entrance with any fenced walls, or watchmens jealous questions, but freely and gladly entertaines them either by the back side of the Dominicans Cloister, or by the Church and Nunnery called the Conception. And thus my Reader, and country man I have brought and guided thee from the Golfe unto Guatemala, shewing what that way is most remarkable. I shall not now shew thee any more of this Cities Dominions toward Nicaragua and the South (having already shewed thee the way as far as Realejo) leaving that untill I come to tell thee of my journey homewards, which I made that way. There remaines yet the Country of the Vera Paz and the way unto it to discover, and so to close up this Chapter. The Vera Paz is so called, for that the Indians of that Country hearing how the Spaniards had conquered Guatemala, and did conquer the Country round about, wheresoever they came, yeelded themselves peaceably and without any resistance unto the Government of Spaine. This Country formerly had a Bishop to it selfe distinct from Guatemala, but now is made one Bishoprick with that. It is governed by an Alcalde Maior, or high Justice sent from Spain, with subordination unto the Court of Guatemala. The head or shire Town of it, is called Coban, where is a Cloister of Dominican Friers, and the common place of Residence of the Alcalde Maior. All this Country as yet is not subdued by the Spaniards, who have now and then some strong encounters with the barbarous and heathen people, which lie between this Country and Jucatan; and faine would the Spaniards conquer them, that they might make way through them unto a Town called Campin belonging to Jucatan, and settle commerce, and Traffique by land with that Country, which is thought would bee a great furtherance to the Country and City of Guatemala, and a safer way to convey their goods to the Havana, then by the Golf, for oftentimes the ships that goe from the Golf to the Havana, are met with by the Hollanders and surprised. But as yet the Spaniards have not been able to bring to passe this their design, by reason they have found strong resistance from the heathenish people, and a hot service to attempt the conquering of them. Yet there was a Fryer a great acquaintance of mine, called Fryer Francisco Moran, who ventured his life among those barbarians, and with two or three Indians went on foot through that Country, untill he came unto Campin, where he found a few Spaniards, who wondred at his courage and boldnesse in comming that way. This Fryer came back again to Coban and Vera Paz, relating how the barbarians hearing him speake their language, and finding him kind, loving and curteous to them, used him also kindly, fearing (as hee said) that if they should kill him, the Spaniards would never let them bee at rest and quiet, untill they had utterly destroyed them. Hee related when he came back, that the Country which the Barbarians inhabite, is better then any part of the Vera Paz, which is subject to the Spaniards, and spoke much of a Valley, where is a great lake, and about it a Towne of Indians, which hee judged to bee of at least twelve thousand Inhabitants, the Cottages lying in a distance one from another. This Fryer hath writ of this Country, and hath gone to Spain to the Court to motion the conquering of it, for the profit and commodity that may ensue both to Guatemala and Jucatan, if a way were opened thither. But though as yet on that side the Spaniards and the Country of the Vera Paz, bee straightned by that heathenish people, yet on the other side it hath free passage unto the Golf, and trade there when the ships doe come, carrying Fowles and what other Provision the Country will afford for the ships, and bringing from thence wines, and other Spanish wares unto Coban. This Country is very hilly and craggy, and though there bee some bigge Townes in it, they are not above three or foure that are considerable. The chief commodities, are Achiotte (which is the best of all the Country belonging to Guatemala) and Cacao, Cotton Wooll, hony, Canna fistula, and Zarzaparilla, great store of Maiz, but no Wheat, much waxe, plenty of fowles and birds of all coloured feathers, wherewith the Indians make some curious works, but not like unto those of Mechoacan; here are also abundance of Parrets, Apes and Monkies which breed in the Mountaines. The way from Guatemala to this Country is that which hitherto hath beene spoken of from the Golf, as far as the Town of St. Luke; and from thence the way keeps on the hils and mountaines which lie on the side of the Valley of Mixco. These hils are called Sacatepeques, (compounded of Sacate and Tepec, the latter signifying a hill, and the former, herbe or grasse, and thus joyned, they signifie mountaines of grasse) and among them are these chief Townes, first Santiago or St. James, a Town of five hundred Families, secondly, San Pedro or St. Peter, consisting of six hundred families, thirdly, St. Juan, or St. John consisting also of at least six hundred Families, and fourthly, Sto Domingo Senano, or St. Dominic of Senaco, being of three hundred Families. These foure Towns are very rich, and the two last very cold, the two first are warmer; there are about them many Farmes of corn and good Wheat, besides the Indian Maiz. These Indians are somewhat of more courage then those of other Townes, and in my time were like to rise up against the Spaniards for their unmercifull tyranny over them. The Churches are exceeding rich; in the Towne of Santiago, there was living in my time one Indian, who for onely vaine-glory had bestowed the worth of six thousand Duckates upon that Church, and yet afterwards this wretch was found to bee a Wizard and Idolater. These Indians get much mony by letting out great tuffes of feathers, which the Indians use in their dances upon the feasts of the Dedication of their towns. For some of the great tuffes may have at least threescore long feathers of divers colours, for every feather hiring they have halfe a Riall, besides what price they set to every feather, if any should chance to be lost. From the Town of St. John, which is the furthest the way lies plain and pleasant unto a little village of some twenty Cottages, called St. Raymundo or St. Raymond, from whence there is a good dayes journy up and down Barrancas, or bottomes unto a Rancho, or lodge standing by a River side, which is the same River, that passeth by the Town of Acasabastlan spoken of before. From this is an ascent of a very craggy and rocky Mountaine, called the Mountaine of Rabinall, where are steps cut out in the very Rockes for the mules feet, and slipping on one or the other side, they fall surely downe the rockes, breaking their neckes, and mangling all their limbes and joynts; but this danger continueth not long nor extendeth above a league and a half, and in the top and worst of this danger, there is the comfort of a goodly Valley, called El Valle de San Nicholas, St. Nicholas his Valley, from an Estancia called St. Nicholas belonging to the Dominicans Cloister of Coban. This Valley though it must not compare with that of Mixco and Pinola; yet next after it, it may well take place for onely three things considerable in it. The first is an Ingenio of Sugar, called San Geronymo, or St. Hierome, belonging unto the Dominicans Cloister of Guatemala, which indeed goeth beyond that spoken of of Amatitlan, both for abundance of Sugar made there, and sent by mules to Guatemala over that rocky Mountaine, and for multitude of slaves living in it under the command of two Fryers, and for the excellent horses bred there, which are incomparably the best of all the Country of Guatemala for metle, and gallantry, and therefore (though mules are commonly used for burthens) are much desired and looked after by the Gallants and Gentry of the City, who make it a great part of their honour to prance about the streets. The second thing in this Valley is the Estancia or Farm of St. Nicolas which is as famous for breeding of mules, as is St. Hierome for horses. The third ornament to it is a Town of Indians, called Rabinall, of at least eight hundred Families, which hath all that heart can wish for pleasure and life of man. It inclineth rather to heat then cold, but the heat is moderate and much qualified with the many cool and shady walkes. There is not any Indian fruit, which is not there to be found, besides the fruits of Spain, as Oranges, Lemmons, sweet and sowre, Citrons, Pomegranates, Grapes, Figs, Almonds, and Dates; the onely want of wheat is not a want to them that mind bread of wheat more then of Maiz, for in two dayes it is easily brought from the Townes of Sacatepeques. For flesh, it hath Beef, Mutton, Kid, Fowles, Turkies, Quailes, Partridges, Rabbets, Pheasants; and for fish, it hath a River running by the houses, which yeeldeth plenty both great and small. The Indians of this Towne are much like unto those of Chiapa of the Indians, for bravery, for feasting, for riding of horses, and shewing themselves in sports and pastimes. This Town my friend Fryer John Baptist, after hee had been Prior of many places, and especially of Chiapa and Guatemala, chose to live in to injoy quietnesse, pleasure and content; and in this Town was I feasted by him in such a sumptuous, prodigall and lavishing way, as truely might make poor mendicant Fryers ashamed to come so neer unto Princes in vanity of life and dyet. From this Valley unto the Vera Paz, or Coban, the head Town of it, there is nothing considerable, save onely one Town more called St. Christoval or St. Christopher, which enjoyeth now a pleasant Lake, and bottomelesse, as is reported. Formerly there being no Lake at all, in a great Earthquake, the earth there opened, and swallowed up many houses, leaving this Lake which ever since hath continued. From hence to Coban the wayes are bad and mountainous, yet such as through the worst of them, those country mules with heavy burthens easily goe through. And thus with my pen, Reader, have I gone through most of the bounds and limits of Guatemala, which is more furnished with gallant Towns of Indians, then is any part of all America; and doubtlesse were the Indians warlike, industrious, active for warre or weapons, no part in all America might bee stronger in people then Guatemala. But they being kept under and oppressed by the Spaniards, and no weapons allowed them, not so much as their naturall Bowes and Arrowes, much lesse Guns, Pistols, Muskets, Swords, or Pikes, their courage is gone, their affections alienated from the Spaniards, and so the Spaniards might very well feare, that if their country should be invaded, the multitude of their Indian people, would prove to them a multitude of enemies, either running away to another side; or forced to help, would bee to them but as the help of so many flies.