Cornum, Cornel Berry; “Corna Quae Vergilius Lapidosa Vocat” — Platina
CORNUTUS, horn-fish, ℞ 442
CORRUDA, the herb wild sparrage, or wild asparagus
CORVUS, a kind of sea-fish, according to some the sea-swallow. Platina describes it as a black fish of the color of the raven (hence the name), and ranks it among the best of fish, cf. STURNUS
COTANA, see COCTANA
COTICULA (CAUDA?), minor cuts of pork, either spareribs, pork chops, or pig’s tails
COTONEA, a herb of the CUNILA family, wallwort, comfrey or black bryony
COTONEUM, COTONEUS, COTONIUS, CYDONIUS, quince-apple, ℞ 163
COTULA, COTYLA, a small measure, ½ sextarius
COTURNIX, quail
COSTUM, COSTUS, costmary; fragrant Indian shrub, the root of burning taste but excellent flavor
Court-bouillon, ℞ 37, 138
Cow-parsnips, p. 188, ℞ 115-122, 183
COXA, ℞ 288
Crabs, ℞ 485; crabmeat croquettes, ℞ 44
Cracklings, p. 285, ℞ 255
Crane, ℞ 212, 213, p. 265. Crane with turnips, ℞ 214-17
CRATER, CRATERA, a bowl or vessel to mix wine and water; also a mixing bowl and oil container—see illustrations, p. 140
CRATICULA, grill, gridiron; illustration, p. 182
CREMORE, DE—, ℞ 172
CRETICUM HYSOPUM, ℞ 29, Cretan hyssop
CROCUS, —OS, —ON, —UM, saffron; hence CROCEUS, saffron-flavored, saffron sauce or saffron essence. CROCIS, a certain herb or flavor, perhaps saffron
Croquettes, ℞ 42, seq.
Cucumber, CUCUMIS, ℞ 82-84
CUCURBITA, pumpkin, gourd, ℞ 73-80, 136
CULINA, kitchen; CULINARIUS, man employed in the kitchen; pertaining to the kitchen
CULTER, a knife for carving or killing; the blade from 9 to 13 inches long
CUMANA, earthen pot or dish; casserole, ℞ 237
Cumberland sauce, ℞ 345
CUMINUM, CYMINUM, cumin; CUMINATUM, —US, sauce or dish seasoned with cumin, ℞ 39, 40. Aethiopian, Libyan, and Syriac cumin are named, ℞ 178
CUNICULUS, rabbit, cony
CUNILAGO, a species of origany, flea-bane, wild marjoram, basilica
CUPELLUM, CUPELLA, dim., of CUPA, a small cask or tun. Ger. KUFE; a “cooper” is a man who makes them
CURCUMA ZEODARIA, turmeric
Custard, brain, ℞ 27; —— nut, ℞ 128, 142; —— of vegetables and brain, ℞ 130; —— of elderberries, ℞ 134; —— rose, ℞ 135; see also ℞ 301
CYATHUS, a measure, for both things liquid and things dry, which according to Pliny 21.109, amounted to 10 drachms, and, according to Rhem. Fann. 80., was the 12th part of a SEXTARIUS, roughly one twelfth pint. Also a goblet, and a vessel for mixing wine, ℞ 131
CYDONIIS, PATINA DE, ℞ 163, see also Malus
CYMA, young sprout, of colewort or any other herb; also cauliflower, ℞ 87-9-92
CYPERUS, CYPIRUS, a sort of rush with roots like ginger, see MEDIUM
CYRENE, a city of Africa, famous for its Laser Cyrenaicum, the best kind of laser, which see. Also Kyrene
DACTYLIS, long, “finger-like” grape or raisin; —US, long date, fruit of a date tree, ℞ 30
DAMA, a doe, deer, also a gazelle, antilope (DORCAS). In some places the chamois of the Alps is called DAMA
DAMASCENA [PRUNA], plum or prune from Damascus, ℞ 30. Either fresh or dried
Danneil, E., editor, pp. 33-34, 35, 271
Dasheen, ℞ 74, 152, 172, 216, 244, 322
Dates, stuffed, ℞ 294
DAUCUM, —US, —ON, a carrot
DE CHINE, see Dasheen
“Decline of the West,” p. 17
DECOQUO, to boil down
DEFRUTARIUS, one who boils wine; CELLA DEFRUTARIA, a cellar where this is done, or where such wine is kept
DEFRUTUM, DEFRICTUM, DEFRITUM, new wine boiled down to one half of its volume with sweet herbs and spices to make it keep. Used to flavor sauces, etc., see also Caramel color
DENTEX, a sparoid marine fish, “Tooth-Fish,” ℞ 157, 459-60
Dessert Dishes, illustrations, pp. 61, 125
Desserts, absent, p. 43
Desserts, Apician, ℞ 143, 294, seq.
DIABOTANON PRO PISCE FRIXO, ℞ 432
Didius Julianus, ℞ 178
Dierbach, H. J., commentator, p. 273
Dining in Apician style, modern, p. 37
—— in Rome, compared with today, pp. 17, 18
Diocles, writer, ℞ 409
Dionysos Cup, illustration, p. 141
Dipper, illustrated, p. 3
DISCUS, round dish, plate or platter
Disguising foods, ℞ 133, pp. 33-4
Distillation, see Vinum
Dormouse, ℞ 396
Doves, p. 265
Drexel, Theodor, collector, pp. 257-8
Dubois, Urbain, chef, p. 16
Duck, p. 265, ℞ 212-3; —— with turnips, ℞ 214-7
DULCIA, sweets, cookies, confections, ℞ 16, 216, 294-6
—RIUS, pastry cook, ℞ 294
Dumas, Alexandre, cooking, p. 24
Dumpling of pheasant, ℞ 48; —— and HYDROGARUM, ℞ 49; —— with broth, plain, ℞ 52, 181
DURACINUS, hard-skinned, rough-skinned fruit; —— PERSICA, the best sort of peach, according to some, nectarines, ℞ 28
Early fruit, stewed, ℞ 177
ECHINUS, sea-urchin, ℞ 412-17
Economical methods: flavoring, ℞ 15
EDO, to eat; great eater, gormandizer, glutton
EDULA, chitterlings
Eel, ℞ 466-7
Egg Dish, illustration, p. 93
Eggs, ℞ 326-28; —— fried, ℞ 336; —— boiled, ℞ 327; —— poached, ℞ 328; —— scrambled with fish and oysters, ℞ 159
Eglantine, ℞ 171
Egyptian Bean, ℞ 322; also see CYAMUS
ELAEOGARUM, ℞ 33
Elderberry custard, ℞ 135
ELIXO, to boil, boil down, reduce. —US, —UM, boiled down, sodden, reduced. According to Platina an ELIXUM simply is a meat bouillon as it is made today. ELIXATIO, a court-bouillon, liquid boiled down; ELIXATURA, a reduction
EMBAMMA, a marinade, a pickle or sauce to preserve food, to give it additional flavor; same as INTINCTUS, ℞ 344
EMBRACTUM, EMPHRACTUM, a dish “covered over”; a casserole of some kind. E. BAIANUM, ℞ 431
Endives, ℞ 109
Enoche of Ascoli, medieval scholar, cf. Apiciana
Entrées, potted, ℞ 54, 55; —— sauces, ℞ 56; —— of fish, poultry and sausage, ℞ 139; —— of fowl and livers, ℞ 175
EPIMELES, careful, accurate; choice things. Title of Book I
Erasmus of Rotterdam, Dialogue, p. 273
ERUCA, the herb rocket, a colewort, a salad plant, a mustard plant
ERVUM, a kind of pulse like vetches or tares
ESCA, meat, food, victuals; ESCO, to eat
Escoffier, A. modern chef, writer, ℞ 338
ESCULENTES, things good to eat
ESTRIX, she-glutton
ESUS, eating
EXCERPTA A VINIDARIO, p. 235
Excerpts from Apicius by Vinidarius, pp. 21, 234
EXCOQUO, to boil out, to melt, to render (fats)
FABA, bean, pulse. —— AEGYPTIACA, ℞ 322; —— IN FRIXORIO, string beans in the frying pan, Fr.: HARICOTS VERTS SAUTÉS; —— VITELLIANA, ℞ 189, 193
FABACIAE VIRIDES, green bean, ℞ 202; —— FRICTAE, ℞ 203; —— EX SINAPI, ℞ 204
Fabricius, Albertus, bibliographer, pp. 258, seq., 268
“Fakers” of manuscripts, p. 13
FALSCHER HASE, ℞ 384
FAR, corn or grain of any kind, also spelt; also a sort of coarse meal
Farce, forcemeat, ℞ 131
FARCIMEN, sausage, ℞ 62-64
FARCIO, to fill, to stuff; also to feed by force, cram, fatten
FARINA, meal, flour, ℞ 173; —OSUS, mealy
FARNEI FUNGI, ℞ 309
FARRICA, ℞ 173
FASEOLUS, PHASEOLUS, a bean; Ger.: Fisole, ℞ 207
FARSILIS, FARTILIS, a rich dish, something crammed or fattened, ℞ 131
FARTOR, sausage maker; keeper of animals to be fattened, ℞ 166, 366
FARTURA, the fattening of animals; also the dressing used to stuff the bodies in roasting, forcemeat, ℞ 166, 366
FENICULUM, FOENI—, fennel
FENUM GRAECUM, FOEN—; the herb fenugreek, also SILICIA, ℞ 206
FERCULUM, a frame or tray on which several dishes were brought in at once, hence a course of dishes
FERULA, a rod or branch, fennel-giant; —— ASA FOETIDA, same as LASERPITIUM
FICATUM, fed or stuffed with figs, ℞ 259-60
FICEDULA, small bird, figpecker, ℞ 132
FICUS, fig, fig tree, FICULA, small fig
Field herbs, ℞ 107; Field salad, ℞ 110; a dish of field vegetables, ℞ 134
Fieldfare, a bird, ℞ 497
Figpecker, a bird, ℞ 132
Figs, to preserve, ℞ 22
Filets Mignons, ℞ 262
Filtering liquors, ℞ 1
Financière garniture, ℞ 166, 378
Fine ragout of brains and bacon, ℞ 147
Fine spiced wine, ℞ 1
Fish cookery, “The Fisherman,” title of Book X; —— boiled, ℞ 432, 4, 5, 6, 455; —— fried, herb sauce, ℞ 433; —— to preserve fried fish, ℞ 13; —— with cold dressing, ℞ 486; —— baked, ℞ 476-7; —— balls in wine sauce, ℞ 145, 164; —— fond, ℞ 155; a dish of any kind of ——, ℞ 149, 150, 156; —— au gratin, ℞ 143; —— loaf, ℞ 429; —— liver pudding, ℞ 429; —— pickled, spiced, marinated, ℞ 480; —— oysters and eggs, ℞ 157; —— salt, any style, ℞ 430, 431; stew, ℞ 153, 432; —— sauce, acid, ℞ 38-9
Flaccus, a Roman, ℞ 372
Flavors and spices, often referred to, especially in text; instances of careful flavoring, ℞ 15, 276-77. Flavoring with faggots, ℞ 385, seq.
Florence Mss. Apiciana VI, VII, VIII, IX
FLORES SAMBUCI, elder blossoms
Fluvius Hirpinus, Roman, ℞ 323, 396; a man interested in raising snails, dormice, etc., for the table
FOCUS, hearth, range; unusually built of brick, on which the CRATICULA stood. Cf. illustrations, p. 182
FOLIUM, leaf, aromatic leaves such as laurel, etc. —— NARDI, several kinds, nard leaf. The Indian nard furnishes nard oil, the Italian lavender
FONDULI, see SPHONDULI, ℞ 114, 121
Food adulterations, pp. 33, 34
Food disguising and adulteration, p. 33, ℞ 6, 7, 134, 147;
—— displayed in Pompeii, p. 7
Fowl, p. 265; a dish of, ℞ 470; —— and livers, ℞ 174; various dishes and sauce, ℞ 218, seq. Picking ——, ℞ 233; Removing disagreeable odors from ——, ℞ 229-30
French Dressing, ℞ 112
French Toast, ℞ 296
FRETALE, FRIXORIUM, FRICTORIUM, frying pan, illustrations, pp. 355, 366; cf. SARTAGO
FRICTELLA, fritter; “A FRICTO DICI NULLA RATIO OBSTAT”—Platina. Ger. “Frikadellen” for meat balls fried in the pan. “De OFFELLIS, QUAS VEL FRICTELLAS LICET APPELLARE”—Platina
FRICTORIUM, FRIXORIUM, same as FRETALE, frying pan
FRISILIS, FRICTILIS, FUSILIS, ℞ 131
FRITTO MISTO (It.), ℞ 46
Friture, (Fr.) frying fat, ℞ 42, seq.
FRIXUS, roast, fried, also dried or parched, term which causes some confusion in the several editions
Frontispice, 2nd Lister Edition, illustration, p. 156
FRUGES, farinaceous dishes
Fruit dishes, ℞ 64, 72; Fruits, p. 210; —— dried, Summary, p. 370
—— Bowl illustration, pp. 61, 125
FRUMENTUM, grain, wheat or barley
Frying, ℞ 42, seq.
Frying pans, illustrated, cf. FRETALE and SARTAGO
Fulda Ms., cf. Apiciana
FUNGUS, mushroom; —ULUS, small m.; see BOLETUS —— FARNEI, ℞ 309, seq.
FURCA, a two-pronged fork; —ULA, —ILLA (dim.) a small fork. FUSCINA, —ULA, a three-pronged fork. Cf. “Forks and Fingerbowls as Milestones in Human Progress,” by the author, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, Chicago, Aug., 1933, pp. 84-87
FURNUS, oven, bake oven. See illustration, p. 2
GALLINA, hen; —ULA, little hen; —ARIUS, poulterer
GALLUS, cock
Game of all kinds, sauce for, ℞ 349
—— birds, ℞ 218, seq.
GANONAS CRUDAS, fish, ℞ 153
GARATUM, prepared with GARUM, which see
Gardener, The—Title of Book III, ℞ 377
GARUM (Gr.: GARON) a popular fish sauce made chiefly of the scomber or mackerel, but formerly from the GARUS, hence the name, cf. p. 22, ℞ 10, 33, 471
Mackerel is the oiliest fish, and plentiful, very well suited for the making of G.
G. was also a pickle made of the blood and the gills of the tunny and of the intestines of mackerel and other fish. The intestines were exposed to the sun and fermented. This has stirred up controversies; the ancients have been denounced for the “vile concoctions,” but garum has been vindicated by modern science as to its rational preparation and nutritive qualities. Codfish oil, for instance, has long been known for its medicinal properties, principally Vitamin D; this is being increased today by exposure to ultraviolet rays (just what the ancients did). The intestines are the most nutritious portions of fish
G. still remains a sort of mystery. Its exact mode of preparation is not known. It was very popular and expensive, therefore was subject to a great number of variations in quality and in price, and to adulteration. For all these reasons GARUM has been the subject of much speculation. It appears that the original meaning of G. became entirely lost in the subsequent variations
In 1933 Dr. Margaret B. Wilson sent the author a bottle of GARUM ROMANUM which she had compounded according to the formulae at her disposal. This was a syrupy brown liquid, smelled like glue and had to be dissolved in water or wine, a few drops of the G. to a glass of liquid, of which, in turn, only a few drops were used to flavor a fish sauce, etc.
—— SOCIORUM, the best kind of G.; ALEXGARI VITIUM, the cheap kind of G., cf. ALEX, HALEC. OENOGARUM, G. mixed with wine; HYDROGARUM, G. mixed with water; OLEOGARUM, G. mixed with oil; OXYGARUM, G. mixed with vinegar
GARUS, small fish from which the real GARUM was made
GELO, cause to freeze, to congeal; GELU, jelly
GELU IN PATINA, gelatine: “QUOD VULGO GELATINAM VOCAMUS”
—Platina
Georg, Carl, Bibliographer, p. 257
Gesamt-Katalog, bibliography, p. 261
Gesner, Conrad, Swiss scientist, bibliographer, polyhistor, see Schola Apitiana, p. 206
GETHYUM, —ON, same as PALLACANA, an onion
Giarratano, C., editor, Apiciana, pp. 18, 19, 26, 271, 273
GINGIBER, ginger; also ZINGIBER, faulty reading of the “G” by medieval scribes
GINGIDON, —IUM, a plant of Syria; according to Spengel the French carrot. Paulus Aegineta says: “BISACUTUM (SIC ENIM ROMANI GINGIDION APPELLANT) OLUS EST SCANDICI NON ABSIMILE,” hence a chervil root, or parsnip, or oysterplant
GLANDES, any kernel fruit, a date, a nut, etc.
Glasse, Mrs. Hannah, writer, ℞ 127
GLIS, pl. GLIRES, dormouse, a small rodent, very much esteemed as food. GLIRARIUM, cage or place where they were kept or raised, ℞ 396
Gluttons, p. 11
Goat, wild, ℞ 346, seq. —— liver, ℞ 291-3
Gollmer, R., editor, Apiciana, pp. 18, 35, 270
GONG for slaves, illustration, p. 151
Goose, p. 265; white sauce for, ℞ 228
Grapes, to keep, ℞ 19
Greek influence on Roman cookery, p. 12, seq.
—— Banquet, by Anacharsis, p. 8
Greek monographs, p. 43
Green beans, p. 247, ℞ 202, 206
Greens, green vegetables, ℞ 99
Grimod de la Reynière, writer, p. 4, cf. Mappa
Gruel, p. 210; ℞ 172, 200-1, seq. —— and wine, ℞ 179-80
GRUS, crane; GRUEM, ℞ 212-3; —— EX RAPIS, ℞ 215-6
Gryphius, S., printer, Apiciana No. 6, facsimile of title, p. 263
Guégan, Bertrand, editor, p. 271, seq.
Guinea Hen, ℞ 239, cf. “Turkey Origin,” by the author, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, for February and March, 1935, Chicago
GULA, gluttony
GUSTUS, taste; also appetizers and relishes and certain entrées of a meal, Hors d’oeuvres. Cf. CENA, ℞ 174-77
Habs, R., writer, p. 18
HAEDUS, HAEDINUS, kid, ℞ 291-3, 355, seq.
—— SYRINGIATUS, ℞ 360; —— PARTHICUM, ℞ 364; —— TARPEIANUM, ℞ 363; —— LAUREATUM EX LACTE, ℞ 365; —— LASARATUM, ℞ 496
HALEC, see ALEC
HALIEUS, HALIEUTICUS, pertaining to fish; title of Book X, p. 356
Ham, fresh, p. 285, ℞ 287-9
HAND-MILL, operated by Slaves, illustration, p. 60
HAPANTAMYNOS, ℞ 497
Harcum, C. G., writer, see COQUUS
Hard-skinned peaches, to keep, ℞ 28
Hare, B. VIII, ℞ 382, seq. —— imitation, ℞ 384; —— braised, ℞ 382-3; —— different dressings, ℞ 383; —— Stuffed, ℞ 384, 91; —— white sauce for, ℞ 385; —— lights of, ℞ 386-7; —— liver, ℞ 170; —— in its own broth, ℞ 388; —— smoked Passenianus, ℞ 389; —— tidbits, kromeskis, ℞ 390; —— boiled, ℞ 393; —— spiced sauce, ℞ 393; —— sumptuous style, ℞ 394; —— spiced, ℞ 395
Haricot of lamb, ℞ 355
HARPAGO, a meat hook for taking boiled meat out of the pot, with five or more prongs; hence “harpoon.” Cf. FURCA
“Haut-goût” in birds, to overcome it, ℞ 229-30
Headcheese, ℞ 125
Heathcock, ℞ 218, seq.
HELENIUM, plant similar to thyme(?); the herb elecampane or starwort
Heliogabalus, emperor, p. 11
HEMINA, a measure, about half a pint
Henry VIII, of England, edict on kitchens, p. 156
HERBAE RUSTICAE, ℞ 107
Herbs, pot herbs, to keep, ℞ 25
Hildesheim Treasure, found in 1868, a great collection of Roman silverware, now in the Kaiser Friedrich Museum, Berlin, our illustrations show a number of these pieces, p. 43
Hip, dog-briar, ℞ 171
HIRCOSIS AVIBUS, DE, ℞ 229-30
Hirpinus, Fluvius, Roman, ℞ 323, 396, who raised animals for the table
HISPANUM, see Oleum
HOEDUS, see HAEDUS
HOLERA, pot herbs, ℞ 25, 66; also OLERA and HOLISERA, from HOLUS
HOLUS, OLUS, kitchen vegetables, particularly cabbage, ℞ 99
Home-made sweets, ℞ 294
Honey cakes, ℞ 16
Honey Refresher, ℞ 2; —— cake, ℞ 16; —— to renew spoiled, ℞ 17; testing quality of, ℞ 18; —— pap, ℞ 181; see also Chap. XIII, Book VII
Horace, writer, pp. 3, 4, 273, ℞ 455
HORDEUM, barley
Horned fish, ℞ 442
Hors d’oeuvres, ℞ 174; cf. GUSTUS
HORTULANUS, gardener, Hortolanus, pork, ℞ 378
Horseradish, ℞ 102
House of the Oven in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2
Humelbergius, Gabriel, editor, ℞ 307; title page of his 1542 edition, p. 265
Hunter style, ℞ 263
HYDROGARATA, foods, sauces prepared with GARUM (which see) and water, ℞ 172
HYDROMELI, rain water and honey boiled down one third
HYPOTRIMA, —IMMA, a liquid dish, soup, sauce, ragout, composed of many spiced things, ℞ 35
HYSITIUM, ISICIUM, a mince, a hash, a sausage, forcemeat, croquette, ℞ 41-56. The term “croquette” used by Gollmer does not fully cover H.; some indeed, resemble modern croquettes and kromeskis very closely. The ancients, having no table forks and only a few knives (which were for the servants’ use in carving) were fond of such preparations as could be partaken of without table ware. The reclining position at table made it almost necessary for them to eat H.; such dishes gave the cooks an opportunity for the display of their skill, inventive ability, their decorative and artistic sense. As “predigested” food, such dishes are decided preferable to the “grosses-pièces,” which besides energetic mastication require skillful manipulation of fork and knife; such exercise was unwelcome on the Roman couches. Modern nations, featuring “grosses-pièces” do this at the expense of high-class cookery. The word, H., is probably a medieval graecification of INSICIUM. Cf. ISICIA
HYSSOPUS, the herb hyssop; H. CRETICUS, marjoram. Also Hysopum creticum, hyssop from the island of Creta, ℞ 29
IECUR, JECUR, liver; ℞ 291-3. IECUSCULUM, small (poultry, etc.) liver
Ihm, Max, writer, p. 19
Ill-smelling fish sauce, ℞ 9; ditto birds, ℞ 229-30
Indian peas, ℞ 187
Ink-fish, ℞ 405
INSICIA, chopped meat, sausage, forcemeat, dressing, stuffing for roasts, ℞ 42; see Hysitia and Isicia; —ARIUS, sausage maker
INTINCTUS, a sauce, seasoning, brine or pickle in which meat, etc., is dipped. See EMBAMMA, ℞ 344
INTUBUS, INTYBUS, —UM, chicory, succory, endive, ℞ 109
INULA HELENIUM, the herb elecampane or starwort
ISICIA, see HYSITIA, ℞ 41-54, 145
—— AMULATA AB AHENO, ℞ 54; —— DE CAMMARIS, ℞ 43; —— DE CEREBELLIS, ℞ 45; —— DE LOLLIGINE, ℞ 42; —— DE SPONDYLIS, ℞ 46; —— DE PULLO, ℞ 50; —— DE SCILLIS, ℞ 43; —— HYDROGARATA, ℞ 49; —— PLENA, ℞ 48; —— SIMPLEX, ℞ 52; —— DE TURSIONE, ℞ 145
Italian Salad, ℞ 123
IUS, JUS, any juice or liquid, or liquor derived from food, a broth, soup, sauce. IUSCELLUM, more frequently and affectionately, IUSCULUM, the diminutive of I.
—— DE SUO SIBI, pan-gravy; such latinity as this proves the genuineness of the Apicius text, ℞ 153; —— IN DIVERSIS AVIBUS, ℞ 210-228; —— IN ELIXAM, ℞ 271-7; —— IN VENATIONIBUS, ℞ 349, seq. —— DIABOTANON, ℞ 432; —— IN PISCE ELIXO, ℞ 433-6; —— ALEXANDRINUM, ℞ 437-9; —— CONGRO, ℞ 440; —— IN CORNUTAM, ℞ 441; —— IN MULLOS, ℞ 442-3; —— PELAMYDE, ℞ 444; —— IN PERCAM, ℞ 446; —— IN MURENA, ℞ 448, 449-52; —— IN PISCE ELIXO, ℞ 454; —— IN LACERTOS ELIXOS, ℞ 455; —— PISCE ASSO, ℞ 456; —— THYNNO, ℞ 457; —— ELIXO, ℞ 458; —— IN DENTICE ASSO, ℞ 459-60; —— IN PISCE AURATA, ℞ 461-2; —— IN SCORPIONE, ℞ 463; —— PISCE OENOGARUM, ℞ 464-5; —— ANGUILLAM, ℞ 466-7
Jardinière, ℞ 378
JECINORA, ℞ 291
Jewish Cookery, compared with Apician, ℞ 205
Johannes de Cereto de Tridino, Venetian printer, p. 261
John of Damascus, see Torinus edition of 1541, Basel
Julian Meal Mush, ℞ 178
Keeping meat and fish, ℞ 10-14, seq.
Kettner, writer, p. 38
Kid, p. 314, ℞ 355, seq. —— liver, ℞ 291-93; —— stew, ℞ 355-8; —— roast, ℞ 359-62; —— boned, ℞ 360-1; —— Tarpeius, ℞ 363-4; —— Prize, ℞ 365; —— plain, ℞ 366; —— laser, ℞ 496
Kidney beans, ℞ 207-8
King, Dr. W., writer, quoted: Introduction, pp. 38, 267
Kromeskis, ℞ 44, 47, 60; cf. ISICIA and HYSITIA
Kyrene, Cyrene, City of Northern Africa, see Laser
Labor item in cookery, pp. 18, 24
LAC, milk; —— FISSILE, cottage cheese
LACERTUS, a sea-fish, not identified, ℞ 147, 152, 455-7
LACTARIS, having milk, made of milk; —IUS, dairyman
LACTES, small guts, chitterlings
LACTUA, LACTUCULA, lettuce, ℞ 105, 109-11
LAGANUM, a certain farinaceous dish; small cake made of flour and oil, a pan cake
LAGENA, —ONA, —OENA, —UNA, flask, bottle
Lamb, ℞ 291-3, 355-65, 495-6; preparations same as Kid, which see
Lambecius, Petrus, writer, on “The Porker’s Last Will,” ℞ 376
Lanciani, Rodolfo, writer, pp. 29, 30
Lancilotus, Blasius, co-editor, 1498-1503 editions, pp. 27-30, 41
—see also Tacuinus
—facsimile of opening chapter, 1503, p. 232
Langoust, ℞ 485
LANX, broad platter, dish, charger, ℞ 455
LAPA, LAPATHUM, LAPADON, same as RUMEX, ℞ 26
Larding, ℞ 394
LARIDUM, LARDUM, ℞ 147, 290; cf. SALSUM
LASER, LASERPITIUM, —ICIUM, the juice or distillate of the herb by that name, also known as SILPHIUM, SYLPHIUM, Greek, SYLPHION. Some agree that this is our present asa foetida, while other authorities deny this. Some claim its home is in Persia, while others say the best LASER came from Cyrene (Kyrene), Northern Africa. The center picture of the so-called Arkesilas-Bowl of Vulci at Paris, Cab. d. Méd. 189, represents a picture as seen by the artist in Kyrene how King Arkesilas (VI. saec.) watches the weighing and the stowing away in the hold of a sailing vessel of a costly cargo of sylphium. It was an expensive and very much esteemed flavoring agent, and, for that reason, the plant which grew only in the wild state, was probably exterminated
There is much speculation, but its true nature will not be revealed without additional information
Method of flavoring with laser-impregnated nuts, ℞ 15
LASERATUS, LASARATUS, prepared or seasoned with LASER, or SILPHIUM
Latin title of Vehling translation, opposite title page
LAUREATUM, prepared with LAURUS; also in the sense of excellence in quality, ℞ 365, 373
LAURUS CINNAMOMUM, cinnamon; —— NOBILIS, laurel leaf, bay leaf
La Varenne, French cook, p. 16
Laws, sumptuary, p. 25, ℞ 166
Leeks, p. 188, ℞ 93-6; —— and beans, ℞ 96
LEGUMEN, leguminous plants; all kinds of pulse-peas, beans lentils, etc., Book V
LENS, LENTICULA, lentils, ℞ 183-4
LEPIDIUM SATIVUM, watercress
LEPOREM MADIDUM, ℞ 382, seq. —— FARSUM, ℞ 384; —— PASSENIANUM, ℞ 389; —— ISICIATUM, ℞ 390; —— FARSILEM, ℞ 391; —— ELIXIUM, ℞ 392; —— SICCO SPARSUM, ℞ 394; —— LEPORIS CONDITURA, ℞ 393-5
LEPUS, hare; LEPUSCULUM, young hare; LEPORARIUM, a place for keeping hare; LEPORINUM MINUTAL, minced hare, Hasenpfeffer, ℞ 382-395
Lettuce, B. V, ℞ 105, 109-111; —— and endives, ℞ 109; —— purée of, ℞ 130
LEUCANTHEMIS, camomile
LEUCOZOMUS, “creamed,” prepared with milk, ℞ 250
Lex Fannia, ℞ 166
Liaison, lié, ℞ 54; cf. AMYLARE
LIBELLI, little ribs, spare ribs, also loin of pork, ℞ 251
LIBRA, weight, 1 pound (abb. “lb.” still in use); LIBRAE, balances, scales
LIBURNICUM, see oil, oleum
LIGUSTICUM, lovage (from Liguria) also LEVISTICUM; identical with garden lovage, savory, basilica, satury, etc.
LIQUORIBUS, DE, p. 370
LIQUAMEN, any kind of culinary liquid, depending upon the occasion. It may be interpreted as brine, stock, gravy, jus, sauce, drippings, marinade, natural juice; it must be interpreted in the broadest sense, as the particular instance requires. This much disputed term has been illustrated also in page 22. Also see ℞ 9, 42
Liquids, Summary of, p. 370
—— thickening of, by means of flour, eggs, etc., called Liaison, cf. AMYLARE
Lister, Dr. Martinus, editor, edition of 1705, title page, ditto, verso of, ditto of 1709, p. 38; frontispice
—— quoted in many foot notes, ℞ 8, seq.
—— assailing Torinus, p. 13, ℞ 15, 26, 100, 205
—— edition, 1709, facsimile, p. 250
Liver kromeskis, ℞ 44; fig-fed, of pig, ℞ 259-60; —— and lungs, ℞ 291-3; —— hash, ℞ 293; —— of fish, see GARUM and Pollio
Lobster, ℞ 398, 399, 400, 401, 2; in various ways
LOCUSTA, a langoust, spiny lobster, large lobster without claws; ℞ 397-402, 485; —— ASSAE, ℞ 398; —— ELIXAE, ℞ 399, 401-2
Loins, p. 285, ℞ 286
LOLIGO, LOLLIGO, calamary, cuttle-fish, ℞ 42, 405
LOLIUM, LOLA, darnel, rye-grass, ray-grass, meal. The seeds of this grass were milled, the flour or meal believed to possess some narcotic properties, as stated by Ovid and Plautus, but recent researches have cast some doubt upon its reported deleterious qualities. Apicius, ℞ 50, reads LOLAE FLORIS
LONGANO, a blood sausage, ℞ 61. The LONGANONES PORCINOS EX IURE TARENTINO in ℞ 140 is a part of the PATINA EX LACTE; a pork sausage made in Tarent of the straight gut, the rectum. Lister says they are cooked in Tarentinian sauce and are not unlike the sausage called APEXABO and HILLA. These sausages were in vogue before the Italians learned to make them; it was in Epirus, Greece, that they were highly developed. Their importation into Rome caused quite a stir, politically. Lister, ℞ 50, p. 119, describes the sausage and calls the inhabitants of Tarent “most voluptuous, soft and delicate” because Juvenal, Sat. VI, v. 297, takes a shot at Tarent
This part of Italy, and especially Sicily, because in close contact with Greece was for many years much farther advanced in art of cookery than the North
Lucania, district of lower Italy whence came the Lucanian sausage, p. 172, ℞ 61; see also LONGANO
LUCIUS FLUVIALIS, a river fish, perch, or pike, according to some; Platina also calls it LICIUS. Cf. MERULA
Lucretian Dish, ℞ 151
Lucullus, Roman general, proverbial glutton, has a place here because of his importation into Rome of the cherry, which he discovered in Asia Minor. He cannot be expected to be represented in the Apicius book because he died 57 B.C.
LUCUSTA, see LOCUSTA
LUMBUS, loin, (Ger. LUMMEL), ℞ 286; LUMBELLI, ℞ 255
Lung, ℞ 291-2
LUPINUS, lupine
LUPUS, fish, ℞ 158
MACELLARIUS, MACELLINUS, market man, butcher
MACELLUM, market
MACERO, to soak, soften, steep in liquor, macerate; MACERATUM, food thus treated
MACTRA, trough for kneading dough
MAGIRUS, MAGEIROS, cook, see COQUUS
Mallows, ℞ 86
MALUS, fruit tree, apple tree; —— PUNICORUM, pomegranate; —— ASSYRIA, —— CITRUS DECUMANA, one of the larger citrus fruits; —— MEDICA, citron tree; —— CYDONIA, quince tree
MALUM, fruit, an apple, but quinces, pomegranates, peaches, oranges, lemons, and other fruits were likewise designated by this name. ℞ 18, 20. See also CITRUM
It is remarkable that Apicius does not specifically speak of lemons and oranges, fruits that must have grown in Italy at his time, that are so indispensable to modern cookery
MALUM PUNICUM, ℞ 20, 21; —— CYDONIUM, ℞ 21; —— GRANATUM, ℞ 20; —— MEDICUM, ℞ 24; —— ROSEUM, ℞ 178, 171. This name, which according to Schuch simply stands for a rose-colored apple, has led to the belief that the ancients made pies, etc., of roses. Today a certain red-colored apple is known as “Roman Beauty.” We concur in Schuch’s opinion, remembering, however, that the fruit of the rose tree, namely the hip, dog-briar, or eglantine, is made into dainty confections on the Continent today. It is therefore quite possible that MALUM ROSEUM stands for the fruit of the rose
MANDUCO, to chew, to munch, to enjoy food by munching; a glutton
MAPPA, table napkin (Fr. nappe). M. is a Punic word, according to Quintil. 1, 5, 57
Each banquet guest brought with him from his own home such a napkin or cloth which he used during the banquet to wipe his mouth and hands. The ancients, evidently, were conscious of the danger of infection through the common use of napkins and table ware. Sometimes they used their napkins to wrap up part of the meal and to give it to their slaves to carry home in. Horace, Martial, Petronius attest to this fact. The banquet guests also employed their own slaves to wait on them at their Host’s party. This custom and the individual napkin habit have survived until after the French revolution. Grimod de la Reynière, in his Almanach des Gourmands, Paris, 1803, seq., describes how guests furnished their own napkins and servants for their own use at parties to which they were invited
This rather sensible custom relieved the host of much responsibility and greatly assisted him in defraying the expenses of the dinner. On the other hand it reveals the restrictions placed upon any host by the general shortage of table ware, table linen, laundering facilities in the days prior to the mechanical age
Marcellus, a Roman physician, ℞ 29
Marinade, pickle; a composition of spices, vegetables, herbs, and liquids, such as vinegar, wine, to preserve meats for several days and to impart to it a special flavor, ℞ 11, 236, 244, 394; cf. EMBAMMA
MARJORANA, marjoram
Marmites, illustrated, pp. 264, 284, 312, 342
MARRUBIUM, the plant horehound
Martial, writer, p. 10, ℞ 307, 461 (on bulbs)
Martino, Maestro, p. 3, cf. Vehling: Martino and Platina, Exponents of Renaissance Cookery, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, Chicago, October, 1932, and Platina, Maestro nell’arte culinaria Un’interessante studio di Joseph D. Vehling, Cremona, 1935
Mason, Mrs., a writer, ℞ 126
MASTIX, MASTICE, MASTICHE, the sweet-scented gum of the mastiche-tree; hence MASTICATUS, MASTICINUS for foods treated with M.
Matius, a writer, was a friend of Julius Caesar. His work is lost, ℞ 167; apples named after him, ibid.
MAYONNAISE DE VOLAILLE EN ASPIC, ℞ 126, 480
Measures, liquid. The following list is confined to terms used in Apicius
PARTES XV equal 1 CONGIUS
CONGIUS I equal 6 SEXTARII (1 S. equals about 1½ pt. English)
SEXTARII II equal 1 CHOENIX
SEXTARIUS I equal 2 HEMINAS
HEMINA I equal 4 ACETABULA
ACETABULUM I equal 12 CYATHI (15 Attic drachms)
CYATHUS I equal 1/12 SEXTARIUS (a cup)
COCHLEAR I equal ¼ CYATHUS (a spoonful)
COTULA, COTYLA, same as HEMINA, same as ½ SEXTARIUS
QUARTARIUS I equal ¼ pint
Meat ball, ℞ 261, seq. —— with laser, ℞ 472-3; meat, boiled, stewed, ℞ 271; keeping of, ℞ 10, 13; how to make pickled meat sweet, ℞ 12; to decorate or garnish, ℞ 394, (see marinade); meat pudding, ℞ 42; —— loaf, ℞ 384, 172
Meat displayed in windows, p. 73; ancient —— diet, p. 31; ancient —— supply, p. 31
Meat diet, ancient, pp. 30, 31
Meat supply, ancient and modern, p. 31
Medicinal formulae in Apicius, ℞ 4, 5, 6, 29, 34, 67, 68, 68, 70, 71, 108, 111, 307
MEDIUM, an iris or lily root which was preserved (candied) with honey, same as ginger, or fruit glacé
Megalone, place where Torinus found the Apicius codex, p. 266
MEL, honey; MELLITUM, sweetened with honey
—— PRAVUM, ℞ 15; —— PROBANDUM, ℞ 16; —— ET CASEUM, ℞ 303
MELEAGRIS, Turkey; cf. Vehling: “Turkey Origin,” Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, Chicago, February-March, 1935
MELIRHOMUM, MELIZOMUM, ℞ 2
MELO, small melon, B. III, ℞ 85; MELOPEPO, muskmelon
Melon, ℞ 85
MENSA, repast, see CENA