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‹Better GutenbergCookery and Dining in Imperial RomeAprus, Aprugnus, Wild Boar. ℞ 329-38. Aprina, Perna, ℞, Also Aper · 32 of 39Contents›

Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome

by Apicius

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Aprus, Aprugnus, Wild Boar. ℞ 329-38. Aprina, Perna, ℞, Also Aper338

APUA (ABUA, APHYA), a small kind of fish, anchovy, sprat, whiting, white bait, or minnow. ℞ 138-9, 146, cf. Pliny. Apua is also a town in Liguria; its inhabitants APUANI

AQUA, water; —— CALIDA, hot w.; —— CISTERNINA, well w.; —— MARINA, sea w.; —— NITRATA, soda w. for the cooking of vegetables; —— RECENS; fresh, i.e., not stale w.; —— PLUVIALE, rain w.

AQUALICUS lower part of belly, paunch, ventricle, stomach, maw

Archetypus Fuldensis, manuscript, see Apiciana Diagram

ARCHIMAGIRUS, principal cook, chef, cf. Cooks’ names

ARIDA (—US, —UM) dry; —— MENTHA, dry mint

ARTEMISIA, the herb mugwort, motherwort, tarragon

ARTOCREAS, meat pie

ARTOPTES, Torinus’ title of Book II; better: SARCOPTES, minces, minced meats

ARTYMA, spice; cf. CONDIMENTUM

Asa foetida, use of —— ℞ 15, p. 23

ASARUM, the Herb foalbit, foalfoot, coltsfoot, wild spikenard

ASCALONICA CEPA, “scallion,” young onion

Asparagus, ASPARAGUS, p. 188, ℞ 72, —— and figpecker, ℞ 132, —— custard pie, ℞ 133

ASSATURA, a roast, also the process of roasting. ℞ 266-270

ASSUS, roast

ASTACUS, a crab or lobster

Athenaeus, writer, pp. 3, seq.
—— on Apicius, p. 10

Athene, Dish illustration, p. 158

ATRIPLEX, the herb orage, or orach

ATRIUM, living room in a Roman residence, formerly used for kitchen purposes, hence the name, “black room,” because of the smoky walls. Like all simple things then and now, the Atrium often developed into a magnificently decorated court, with fountains and marble statues, and became a sort of parlor to receive the guests of the house

ATTAGENA (ATAGENA), heath cock, a game bird. ℞ 218, seq.

AURATA, a fish, “golden” dory, red snapper. ℞ 157, 461, 462

AVELLANA, hazelnut, filbert, Fr. AVELLINE
—— NUX, —— NUCLEUS, kernel of f. ℞ 297 and in the list of the Excerpta

AVENA, a species of bearded grass, haver-grass, oats, wild oats

AVIBUS, IN— ℞ 220, 21, 24, 27

AVICULARIUS, bird keeper, poulterer

AVIS, bird, fowl; AVES ESCULENTAE, edible birds. —— HIRCOSAE, ill-smelling birds, ℞ 229-30, —— NE LIQUESCANT, ℞ 233

B

BACCA, berry, seed. —— MYRTHEA, myrtle berry; —— RUTAE, rue berry; —— LAUREA, laurel berry, etc.

Bacon, ℞ 285-90; see also SALSUM

BAIAE, a town, watering place of the ancients, for which many dishes are named. ℞ 205. BAIANUM pertaining to BAIAE; hence EMPHRACTUM ——, FABAE, etc. ℞ 202, 205, 432; Baian Seafood Stew, ℞ 431

Bakery in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2

Bantam Chicken, ℞ 237

Barracuda, a fish, ℞ 158

Barley Broth, ℞ 172, 200, 247

BARRICA, ℞ 173

Barthélemy, J. J., writer, translator of Anacharsis, p. 8

Baseggio, G., editor, Apiciana, No. 13, p. 270

BASILICUM, basil

Bavarian Cabbage, ℞ 87

Beans, ℞ 96, 189, 194-8, 247; Green —— ℞ 247; —— sauté, ℞ 203; —— in mustard, ℞ 204
—— Baian style, ℞ 202
—— “Egyptian,” see COLOCASIUM

Beauvilliers, A., French cook; cf. Styrio

Beef, p. 30; shortage of —— diet, p. 30
—— “Beef Eaters,” p. 30
—— dishes, ℞ 351, seq.

Beets, ℞ 70, 97, 98, 183
—— named for Varro, ℞ 70, 97, 98

Bernardinus, of Venice, printer, p. 258

Bernhold, J. M., editor, Apiciana, Nos. 2-3, 12-14, pp. 258, seq.

BETA, beet, which see BETACEOS VARRONES, ℞ 70

Bibliographers of Apicius, see Apiciana

Birds, Book VI, ℞ 210-227; treatment of strong-smelling —— ℞ 229, 230

BLITUM, a pot herb, the arrack or orage, also spinach, according to some interpreters

Boar, wild, ℞ 329-38, p. 314

Boiled Dinners, ℞ 125

BOLETAR, a dish for mushrooms, ℞ 183

BOLETUS, mushroom, ℞ 309-14

Bordelaise, ℞ 351

Borrichius, Olaus, p. 268

BOTELLUS, (dim. of BOTULUS) small sausage, ℞ 60. BOTULUS, a sausage, meat pudding, black pudding, ℞ 60, 61, 172

BOUILLABAISSE, a fish stew of Marseilles, ℞ 431, 481

Bouquet garni, ℞ 138

BOVES, Beef cattle; cf. BUBULA

Bowls for mixing wine, etc., see Crater
—— for fruit or dessert, illustration, p. 61

Brain Sausage, ℞ 45
—— Custard, ℞ 128
—— and bacon, ℞ 148
—— and chicken with peas, ℞ 198

Brandt, Edward, Editor, Commentator, ℞ 29, 170, p. 273

BRASSICA, cabbage, kale; —— CAMPESTRA, turnip; —— OLERACEA, cabbage and kale; —— MARINA, sea kale (?)

Bread, Alexandrine, ℞ 126; Picentian ——, ℞ 125. The methods of grinding flour and baking is illustrated with our illustrations of the Casa di Forno of Pompeii and the Slaves grinding flour, which see, pp. 142, 149. Apicius has no directions for baking, an art that was as highly developed in his days as was cookery

BREVIS PIMENTORUM, facsimile, p. 234

Brissonius, writer, quoting Lambecius, ℞ 376

Broiler and Stove, illustration, p. 182

Broth, see LIQUAMEN; Barley ——, ℞ 172, 200, 201
—— How to redeem a spoiled, ℞ 9

BUBULA, Beef, flesh of oxen, p. 30, ℞ 351, 352

BUBULUS CASEUS, cow’s cheese

BUCCA, BUCCEA, mouth, cheek; also a bite, a morsel, a mouth-full; Fr. BOUCHÉE; BUCELLA (dim.) a small bite, a dainty bit, delicate morsel; hence probably, Ger. “Buss’l” a little kiss and “busseln,” to spoon, to kiss, in the Southern German dialect

BUCCELLATUM, a biscuit, Zwieback, soldier’s bread, hard tack

BULBUS, a bulbous root, a bulb, onion, ℞ 285, 304-8

BULBI FRICTI, ℞ 308

BULLIRE, to boil; Fr. BOUILLIR

BUTYRUM, butter. Was little used in ancient households, except for cosmetics. Cows were expensive, climate and sanitary conditions interfered with its use in the Southern kitchen. The Latin butyrum is said to derive from the German Butter

C

CABBAGE, ℞ 87-92, 103; p. 188
Bavarian, ℞ 87
Ingenious way of cooking, ℞ 88
Chartreuse, ℞ 469

CACABUS, CACCABUS, a cook pot, marmite; see OLLA. Illustrations, pp. 183, 209, 223, 235. Hence: CACCABINA, dish cooked in a caccabus. See also SALACACCABIA, ℞ 468. I Exc. 470

CAELIUS, see Coelius

CAEPA, CEPA, onion; —— ARIDA, fresh onion; —— ROTUNDA, round onion; —— SICCA, dry o.; —— ASCALONICA, young o. “scallion;” —— PALLACANA or PALLICANA, a shallot, a special Roman variety

Calamary, cuttlefish, ℞ 405, p. 343

CALAMENTHUM, cress, watercress

CALLUM, CALLUS (—— PORCINUM) tough skin, bacon skin, cracklings. ℞ 9, 251, 255

CAMERINUM, town in Umbria, ℞ 3, where Vermouth was made

CAMMARUS MARINUS, a kind of crab-fish, ℞ 43

CANABINUM, CANNABINUM, hemp, hempen

CANCER, crab

Canning, ℞ 23-24

CANTHARUS, illustrations, p. 231; p. 274

CAPON, ℞ 166, 249; CAPONUM TESTICULI, ℞ 166

CAPPAR, caper

CAPPARA, purslane, portulaca

CAPPARUS, CARABUS, ℞ 397

CAPRA, she-goat, also mountain goat, chamois; Ger. GEMSE; ℞ 346-8

Caramel coloring, ℞ 55, 73, 119, 124, 146

CARDAMOMUM, cardamom, aromatic seed

CARDAMUM, nasturtium, cress

Cardoons, ℞ 112-4

CARDUS, CARDUUS, cardoon, edible thistle, ℞ 112-3

Carême, Antonin, The most talented French cook of the post-revolution period; his chartreuses compared, ℞ 186, p. 35

CARENUM, CAROENUM, wine or must boiled down one third of its volume to keep it. ℞ 35

CAREUM, CARUM, Carraway

CARICA (—— FICUS) a dried fig from Caria, a reduction made of the fig wine was used for coloring sauce, similar to our caramel color, which see

CARIOTA, CARYOTA, a kind of large date, figdate; also a wine, a date wine; ℞ 35

CARO, flesh of animals, ℞ 10; —— SALSA, pickled meat

CAROTA, CAROETA, carrot; ℞ 121-3

Carthusian monks, inventors of the CHARTREUSE, ℞ 68, see also Carême

CARTILAGO, gristle, tendon, cartilage

CARYOPHYLLUS, clove

Casa di Forno, Pompeii, “House of the Oven,” illustration, p. 2

CASEUS, cheese; ℞ 125, 303; —— BUBULUS, cow’s cheese; —— VESTINUS, ℞ 126

CASTANEA, chestnut, ℞ 183 seq.

Catesby, writer, ℞ 322

Catfish, ℞ 426

CATTABIA, see Salacaccabia

Caul Sausage, Kromeski, ℞ 45

CAULICULOS, ℞ 87-92; also Col— cul— and coliclus

Cauliflower, ℞ 87

Caviare, see STYRIO

Celery, ℞ 104

Celsinus, a Roman, ℞ 376-7

CENA, COENA, a meal, a repast; CENULA, a light luncheon; —— RECTA, a “regular” meal, a formal dinner, usually consisting of GUSTUS, appetizers and light ENTRÉES, the CENA proper which is the PIÈCE DE RESISTANCE and the MENSÆ SECUNDAE, or desserts. The main dish was the CAPUT CENAE; the desserts were also called BELLARIA or MENSAE POMORUM, because they usually finished with fruit. Hence Horace’s saying “AB OVO USQUE AD MALA” which freely translated and modernized means, “Everything from soup to nuts.”

—— AUGURALIS, —— PONTIFICALIS, —— CAPITOLINA, —— PERSICA, ——SYBARITICA, —— CAMPANAE, —— CEREALIS, —— SALIARIS, ——TRIUMPHALIS, —— POLINCTURA are all names for state dinners, official banquets, refined private parties each with its special significance which is hard to render properly into our language except by making a long story of it

—— PHILOSOPHICA, —— PLATONICA, —— LACONICA, —— RUSTICA, ——CYNICA are all more or less skimpy affairs, while the —— ICCI is that of a downright miser. —— HECATES is a hectic meal, ——TERRESTRIS a vegetarian dinner, —— DEUM, a home-cooked meal, and a —— SATURNIA is one without imported dishes or delicacies, a national dinner

—— NOVENDIALIS is the feast given on the ninth day after the burial of a dead man when his ashes were scattered while yet warm and fresh. —— DUBIA, ℞ 139, is the “doubtful meal” which causes the conscientious physician Lister so much worry

The CENA, to be sure, was an evening meal, the PRANDIUM, a noon-day meal, a luncheon, any kind of meal; the JENTACULUM, a breakfast, an early luncheon; the MERENDA was a snack in the afternoon between the meals for those who had “earned” a bite

There are further CENAE, such as —— DAPSILIS, —— PELLOCIBILIS, —— UNCTA, —— EPULARIS, —— REGALIS, all more or less generous affairs, and our list of classical and sonorous dinner names is by no means exhausted herewith. The variety of these names is the best proof of how seriously a meal was considered by the ancients, how much thought was devoted to its character and arrangements

CEPA, same as CAEPA, onion

CEPAEA, purslane, sea-purslane, portulaca

CEPUROS, Gr., gardener; title of Book III

CERASUM, cherry, Fr. CERISE; Cerasus is a city of Pontus (Black Sea) whence Lucullus imported the cherry to Rome

CEREBRUM, CEREBELLUM, brains, ℞ 46

CEREFOLIUM, CAEREFOLIUM, chervil, Ger. KERBEL, Fr. CERFEUILLE

Cereto de Tridino, printer, see Tacuinus

CERVUS, stag, venison, ℞ 339-45

Cesena, a town in Italy where there is an Apicius Ms.; Apiciana XII

CHAMAE, cockles

Chamois, ℞ 346 seq.

Charcoal used for filtering, ℞ 1

CHARTREUSE, ℞ 68, 131, 145a, 186, 469-70; also see Carthusian monks and Carême

“Chasseur,” ℞ 263

Cheese, cottage, ℞ 303; also see CASEUS

Cheltenham codex, Apiciana I

Cherries, ℞ 22, see CERASUS

Chestnuts, ℞ 183-84a

Chicken, PULLUS
—— forcemeat, ℞ 50; —— broth, 51; —— fricassé, 56; —— boiled, 235, 236, 242; —— and dasheens, 244; —— creamed, with paste, 247; —— stuffed, 248, 199, 213-17, 235; —— in cream, 250; —— disjointed, 139, note 1; —— Bantam, 237; —— cold, in its own gravy, 237; —— fried or sauté, 236; —— Guinea hen, 239; —— Fricassé Varius, 245; —— à la Fronto, 246; —— Parthian style, 237; —— and leeks, 238; —— with laser, 240; —— roast, 241; —— and pumpkin, 243; —— galantine, 249; —— fried with cream sauce, 250; —— Maryland, Wiener Backhähndl, 250

Chick-peas, ℞ 207-9; p. 247

Chimneys on pies, ℞ 141

Chipolata garniture, ℞ 378

CHOENIX, a measure,—2 SEXTARII, ℞ 52

Chops, ℞ 261

CHOUX DE BRUXELLES AUX MARRONS, ℞ 92

Christina, Queen of Sweden, eating Apician dishes, pp. 37, 38

CHRYSOMELUM, CHRYSOMALUM, a sort of quince

CIBARIA, victuals, provisions, food; same as CIBUS. Hence CIBARIAE LEGES, sumptuary laws; CIBARIUM VAS, a vessel or container for food; CIBARIUS, relating to food; also CIBATIO, victualling, feeding, meal, repast

CIBARIUM ALBUM, white repast, white dish, blancmange. Fr. BLANC MANGER, “white eating.” A very old dish. Platina gives a fine recipe for it; in Apicius it is not yet developed. The body of this dish is ground almonds and milk, thickened with meat jelly. Modern cornstarch puddings have no longer a resemblance to it; to speak of “chocolate” blancmange as we do, is a barbarism. Platina is proud of his C.A. He prefers it to any Apician dessert. We agree with him; the incomplete Apicius in Platina’s and in our days has no desserts worth mentioning. A German recipe of the 13th century (in “Ein Buch von guter Spise”) calls C.A. “Blamansier,” plainly a corruption of the French. By the translation of C.A. into the French, the origin of the dish was obliterated, a quite frequent occurrence in French kitchen terminology

CIBORIUM, a drinking vessel

CIBUS, food, victuals, provender

CICER, chick-pea, small pulse, ℞ 207-209

Cicero, famous Roman, ℞ 409

CICONIA, stork. Although there is no direct mention of the C. as an article of diet it has undoubtedly been eaten same as crane, egrets, flamingo and similar birds

CINARA, CYNARA, artichoke

CINNAMONUM, cinnamon

CIRCELLOS ISICATOS, a sausage, ℞ 65

CITREA MALA, citron; see CITRUM

CITREUS, citron tree

CITRUM, CITRIUM, the fruit of the CITREUS, citron, citrus, ℞ 23, 81, 168. The citron tree is also MALUS MEDICA. “MALUS QUAE CITRIA VOCANTUR”; CONDITURA MALORUM MEDICORUM, Ap. Book I.; Lister thinks this is a cucumber

CITRUS, orange or lemon tree and their fruits. It is remarkable that Apicius does not speak of lemons, one of the most indispensable fruits in modern cookery which grow so profusely in Italy today. These were imported into Italy probably later. The ancients called a number of other trees CITRUS also, including the cedar, the very name of which is a corruption of CITRUS

Classic Cookery, pp. 16-17

CLIBANUS, portable oven; also a broad vessel for bread-making, a dough trough

CNECON, ℞ 16

CNICOS, CNICUS, CNECUS, bastard saffron; also the blessed thistle

CNISSA, smoke or steam arising from fat or meat while roasting

COCHLEAE, snails, also sea-snails, “cockles,” periwinkles, ℞ 323-25. —— LACTE PASTAE, milk-fed snails. COCHLEARIUM, a snail “farm,” place where snails were raised and fattened for the table. Also a “spoonful,” a measure of the capacity of a small shell, more properly, however, COCHLEAR, a spoon, a spoon-full, ¼ cyathus, the capacity of a small shell, also, properly, a spoon for drawing snails out of the shells. COCHLEOLA, a small snail

COCOLOBIS, basil, basilica

COCTANA, COTANA, COTTANA, COTONA, a small dried fig from Syria

COCTIO, the act of cooking or boiling

COCTIVA CONDIMENTA, easy of digestion, not edible without cooking. COCTIVUS, soon boiled or roasted

COCTOR, cook, which see; same as COQUUS

COCULA, same as COQUA, a female cook

COCULUM, a cooking vessel

COCUS, COQUUS, cook, which see

Coelius, name of a person, erroneously attached to that of Apicius; also Caelius, p. 13

COLADIUM, —EDIUM, —ESIUM, —OESIUM, variations of COLOCASIUM, which see

Colander, illustration of a, p. 58

COLICULUS, CAULICULUS, a tender shoot, a small stalk or stem, ℞ 87-92

COLO, to strain, to filter, cf. ℞ 73

COLOCASIA, COLOCASIUM, the dasheen, or taro, or tanyah tuber, of which there are many varieties; the root of a plant known to the ancients as Egyptian Bean. Descriptions in the notes to the ℞ 74, 154, 172, 200, 244 and 322

COLUM NIVARIUM, a strainer or colander for wine and other liquids. See illustration, p. 58

COLUMBA, female pigeon; COLUMBUS, the male; COLUMBULUS, —A, squab, ℞ 220. Also used as an endearing term

Columella, writer on agriculture; —— on bulbs, ℞ 307; —— mentioning Matius, ℞ 167

COLYMBADES (OLIVAE), olives “swimming” in the brine; from COLYMBUS, swimming pool

Combination of dishes, ℞ 46

Commentaries on Apicius, p. 272

Commodus, a Roman, ℞ 197

Compôte of early fruit, ℞ 177

CONCHA, shellfish muscle, cockle scallop, pearl oyster; also the pearl itself, or mother-of-pearl; also any hollow vessel resembling a mussel shell (cf. illustration, p. 125) hence CONCHA SALIS PURI, a salt cellar. Hence also CONCHIS, beans or peas cooked “in the shell” or in the pod; and diminutives and variations: CONCHICLA FABA, (bean in the pod) for CONCHICULA, which is the same as CONCHIS and CONCICLA; ℞ 194-98, 411. —— APICIANA, ℞ 195; —— DE PISA, ℞ 196; —— COMMODIANA, ℞ 197; —— FARSILIS, ℞ 199

CONCHICLATUS, ℞ 199

CONCRESCO, grow together, run together, thicken, congeal, also curdle, etc., same as CONCRETIO, CONCRETUM

CONDIO, to salt, to season, to flavor; to give relish or zest, to spice, to prepare with honey or pepper, and also (since spicing does this very thing) to preserve

CONDITIO, laying up, preserving. CONDITIVUS, that which is laid up or preserved, same as CONDITUM

CONDITOR, one who spices. Ger. Konditor, a pastry maker

CONDIMENTARIUS, spice merchant, grocer

CONDIMENTUM, condiment, sauce, dressing, seasoning, pickle, anything used for flavoring, seasoning, pickling —— VIRIDE green herbs, pot herbs; cf. CONDITURA. —— PRO PELAMIDE, ℞ 445; —— PRO THYNNO, ℞ 446; —— IN PERCAM, ℞ 447; —— IN RUBELLIONEM, ℞ 448; —— RATIO CONDIENDI MURENAS, ℞ 449; —— LACERTOS, ℞ 456; —— PRO LACERTO ASSO, ℞ 457; —— THYNNUM ET DENTICEM, ℞ 458; —— DENTICIS, ℞ 460; —— IN DENTICE ELIXO, ℞ 461; —— AURATA, ℞ 462; —— IN AURATAM ASSAM, ℞ 463; —— SCORPIONES, ℞ 464; —— ANGUILLAM, ℞ 466; —— ALIUD —— ANGUILLAE, ℞ 467

CONDITUM, preserved, a preserve; cf. CONDIO; —— MELIRHOMUM, ℞ 2; —— ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM, ℞ 3; —— PARADOXUM, ℞ 1; —— VIOLARUM, ℞ 5
—— Paradoxum, facsimile of Vat. Ms., p. 253

CONDITURA, a pickle, a preserve, sauce, seasoning, marinade; the three terms, C., CONDITUM and CONDIMENTUM are much the same in meaning, and are used indiscriminately. They also designate sweet dishes and desserts of different kinds, including many articles known to us as confections. Hence the German, KONDITOR, for confectioner, pastry cook. Nevertheless, a general outline of the specific meanings of these terms may be gathered from observing the nature of the several preparations listed under these headings, particularly as follows: —— ROSATUM, ℞ 4; (cf. No. 5) —— MELLIS, ℞ 17; —— UVARUM, ℞ 20; —— MALORUM PUNICORUM, ℞ 21; —— COTONIORUM, ℞ 19; —— FICUUM, PRUNORUM, PIRORUM, ℞ 20; —— MALORUM MEDICORUM, ℞ 21; —— MORORUM, ℞ 25; —— OLERUM, ℞ 26; —— RUMICIS, ℞ 27; —— LAPAE, ℞ 27; —— DURACINORUM, ℞ 29; —— PRUNORUM, etc., ℞ 30
—in most of these instances corresponds to our modern “preserving”

CONGER, CONGRIO, CONGRUS, sea-eel, conger. CONGRUM QUEM ANTIATES BRUNCHUM APPELLANT,—Platina, cf. ANGUILLA. Plautus uses this fish name to characterize a very cunning person, a “slippery” fellow. A cook is thus called CONGRIO in one of his plays

CONILA, CUNILA, a species of the plant ORIGANUM, origany, wild marjoram. See SATUREIA

CONYZA, the viscous elecampane

Cook, COCUS, COQUUS is the most frequent form used, COCTOR, infrequent. COQUA, COCULA, female cook; though female cooks were few. The word is derived from COQUERE, to cook, which seems to be an imitation of the sound, produced by a bubbling mess

The cook’s work place (formerly ATRIUM, the “black” smoky room) was the CULINA, the kitchen, hence in the modern Romance tongues CUISINE, CUCINA, COCINA. Those who work there are CUISINIERS, COCINEROS, the female a CUISINIÈRE, and so forth

The German and Swedish for “kitchen” are KÜCHE and KÖKET, but the words “cook” and “KOCH” are directly related to COQUUS

A self-respecting Roman cook, especially a master of the art, having charge of a crew, would assume the title of MAGIRUS, or ARCHIMAGIRUS, chief cook. This Greek—“MAGEIROS”—plainly shows the high regard in which Greek cookery stood in Rome. No American CHEF would think of calling himself “chief cook,” although CHEF means just that. The foreign word sounds ever so much better both in old Rome and in new New York. MAGEIROS is derived from the Greek equivalent of the verb “to knead,” which leads us to the art of baking. Titles and distinctions were plentiful in the ancient bakeshops, which plainly indicates departmentisation and division of labor

The PISTOR was the baker of loaves, the DULCIARIUS the cake baker, using honey for sweetening. Martial says of the PISTOR DULCIARIUS, “that hand will construct for you a thousand sweet figures of art; for it the frugal bee principally labors.” The PANCHESTRARIUS, mentioned in Arnobius, is another confectioner. The LIBARIUS still another of the sweet craft. The CRUSTULARIUS and BOTULARIUS were a cookie baker and a sausage maker respectively

The LACTARIUS is the milkman; the PLACENTARIUS he who makes the PLACENTA, a certain pancake, also a kind of cheese cake, often presented during the Saturnalia. The SCRIBLITARIUS belongs here, too: in our modern parlance we would perhaps call these two “ENTREMETIERS.” The SCRIBLITA must have been a sort of hot cake, perhaps an omelet, a pancake, a dessert of some kind, served hot; maybe just a griddle cake, baked on a hot stone, a TORTILLA—what’s the use of guessing! but SCRIBLITAE were good, for Plautus, in one of his plays, Poenulus, shouts, “Now, then, the SCRIBLITAE are piping hot! Come hither, fellows!” Not all of them did eat, however, all the time, for Posidippus derides a cook, saying, CUM SIS COQUUS, PROFECTUS EXTRA LIMEN ES, CUM NON PRIUS COENAVERIS, “What? Thou art a cook, and hast gone, without dinner, over the threshold?”

From the FOCARIUS, the scullion, the FORNACARIUS, the fireman, or furnace tender, and the CULINARIUS, the general kitchen helper to the OBSONATOR, the steward, the FARTOR to the PRINCEPS COQUORUM, the “maître d’hôtel” of the establishment we see an organization very much similar to our own in any well-conducted kitchen

The Roman cooks, formerly slaves in the frugal days of the nation, rose to great heights of civic importance with the spread of civilization and the advance of luxury in the empire. Cf. “The Rôle of the Mageiroi in the Life of the Ancient Greeks” by E. M. Rankin, Chic., 1907, and “Roman Cooks” by C. G. Harcum, Baltimore, 1914, two monographs on this subject

Cookery, Apician, as well as modern c., discussed in the critical review of the Apicius book
—— examples of deceptive c. in Apicius, ℞ 6, 7, 9, 17, 229, 230, 384, 429
—— of flavoring and spicing, ℞ 15, 277, 281, 369
—— deserving special mention for ingenuity and excellence, ℞ 15, 21, 22, 72, 88, 177, 186, 212, 213, 214, 250, 287, 315, 428
—— modern Jewish, resembling Apicius, ℞ 204 seq.
—— examples of attempts to remove disagreeable odors, ℞ 212-14, 229, 230, 292
—— removing sinews from fowl, ℞ 213
—— utensils, p. 15

Coote, C. T., commentator, pp. 19, 273

COPA, a woman employed in eating places and taverns, a bar maid, a waitress, an entertainer, may be all that in one person. One of the caricatures drawn on a tavern wall in Pompeii depicts a COPA energetically demanding payment for a drink from a reluctant customer, p. 7

COPADIA, dainties, delicate bits, ℞ 125, 179, 180, 271, 276, seq., 355

Copper in Vegetable Cookery, ℞ 66

Copyists and their work, p. 14

COQUINA, cooking, kitchen. COQUINARIS, —IUS, relating to the kitchen. COQUO, —IS, COXI, COCTUM, COQUERE, to cook, to dress food, to function in the kitchen, to prepare food for the table. See cook

COR, heart

CORDYLA, CORDILLA, ℞ 419, 423

CORIANDRUM, the herb coriander; CORIANDRATUM, flavored with c.; LIQUAMEN EX CORIANDRO, coriander essence or extract

Corn, green, ℞ 99

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