V Making Buttonholes, Cutting From a Pattern, a Doll Dress
To make a good buttonhole is an accomplishment that any girl can be proud of, as it is the hardest thing in sewing. The thread should be almost double in length to that you usually take, as a joining is very clumsy in a buttonhole.
A buttonhole is a worked opening in a piece of material or garment through which a button is to be slipped. The friction caused by buttoning and unbuttoning necessitates that the worked edges should be firmly and well sewed.
Before we make a real buttonhole, let us see how the stitch is worked. Draw a line one inch in length with the straight of the material. Take two stitches one inch long over this line. At the extreme right of the stitches insert your needle, threaded with No. 40 cotton. Take a stitch about a sixteenth of an inch below the line. While the needle is still in the material—you are working from left to right—(Figure 70), carry the thread under its point from the left, to the right side of the needle. The enlarged cut showing this stitch is very plain. The needle is then drawn through the material toward the chest and then straight from it. The next stitch and every other stitch must be identical with the first, the difference being that each stitch is then a little farther to the left. Every stitch must be the same length.
Now let us prepare to make the stitch on a fold. Fold a band in three equal parts. Pass the needle between the folds and bring it out on the edge. Hold the end of the thread with the left thumb. Carry the needle to the back of the fold and insert the point through the fifth thread of the material from the edge. The double thread at the edge of the needle is brought around the point of the needle from left to right and drawn out. (Figure 71).
A tailor’s buttonhole is made slightly different. The needle is placed in the same position as in the ordinary buttonhole. The thread is brought from the top of the stitch and the doubled thread is brought around under the point of the needle from right to left (Figure 72).
The corners of the buttonhole are worked in two ways, either barred or rounded. The round corners are worked in the same buttonhole stitch, only it is twice the depth of the buttonholing along the two edges. Five or seven stitches will be sufficient for a corner or the ridge of the buttonholing will be too crowded.
The bar or braced end of the buttonhole is a little more difficult. It is necessary to bar a buttonhole for heavy woollen materials such as men’s coats, or your own cloak, or outer wraps (Figure 72). Generally the first end of the buttonhole is rounded and the last end barred (Figure 73).
Work around the buttonhole end when the last stitch has been made, turn the material so that the work lies across your forefinger. Pass the needle over the extreme left of the stitch, (Figure 74). Work four stitches the same length as those of the two sides of the buttonhole, and then insert the needle through the ridge of the first buttonhole stitch. The ridge of the bar faces the buttonhole. This bar should be just the width of the buttonhole. Nine stitches are usually sufficient for it.
Tailors run two or three strands at the base of the buttonhole before working the nine stitches. The stitches are not taken through the material but only over the threads.
A buttonhole is fastened off on the wrong side at the base of the stitch.
The most important step is to cut the buttonhole straight. The buttonhole should be a trifle longer than the button. It should be cut in the opposite direction to which the strain will be. For instance on the back of the waist the buttonholes should run crosswise, for the movement of the shoulders spreads the buttonhole lengthwise. On the bands around the waist buttonholes are made lengthwise.
A sharp pair of scissors or a penknife should be used for cutting the holes. Insert the point of the scissors or knife through the centre of the buttonhole. Cut one side, then the other, along a thread of the material.
The thread is fastened securely on the wrong side of the left-hand corner. Use No. 40 sewing cotton for buttonholes, unless on very fine material, when No. 60 should be used. Sometimes it is well to over-cast the raw edges before working the buttonhole. A thread should always start at the extreme lower left-hand corner.
The backs of yokes should be fastened with loops and fine buttons. To make a loop, span the thread across the edge of the material in a loop large enough to slip the button through. Let the last stitch be on the right-hand side. Now place the threaded needle under the strands of thread letting the thread fall under the point of the needle. Repeat in this manner till the strands are entirely covered. The ridge or purled edge of this stitch will be on the outside of the loop.
Hooks are sometimes caught into loops, but they are made directly on the material instead of sewed on the edge. The strands of thread, however, are not as loose as the buttonloops. The diagram (Figure 75) of the two loops will convey a clear idea of how the threads are spanned and covered.
The last step in sewing is cutting from a given pattern. An old garment that fits well, ripped apart makes an excellent pattern and requires very little fitting. Press the pieces before using them as a pattern. Lay the material so that the selvage runs lengthwise, that is, from head to foot. Only one half of the garment is necessary for a pattern, as the material is doubled or folded lengthwise (Figure 76). The centre front of the skirt or waist is always placed on the fold of the material and either basted or pinned down before cutting.
Collars, cuffs, bands, and sleeves are cut with the selvage running their length. Cut any part of a garment such as sleeves, waist, or skirt through two thicknesses of material so that both sides will be exactly alike. This does not refer to the front gore of a skirt. When the material has a right and wrong side the right sides should face each other before cutting the pattern.
Handkerchiefs or frills should be cut along a thread so that the edges may be perfectly straight.
Be sure that the material lies perfectly flat under the pattern. Pin the centre first to keep it from slipping before pinning the edges. Pin the entire garment before cutting anything, so that you can be sure that your material will be sufficient. This also gives you an opportunity to see where to put the smaller pieces and economize with the material.
A large pair of scissors should be used in cutting. The blunt-pointed blade is next to the board or table. It is well to practise on paper and plan the pattern before using the pattern on the cloth.
Bias bands should be cut on the bias of the material. Cut a square piece of material and fold it cat-a-corner. Cut along the fold and you will get a true bias.
Bands to finish the necks of undergarments or around armholes should be cut on the bias. In fact, any curved edge that has to be faced should be faced with a bias instead of a straight band.
Now suppose we make a real dress for Sally Ann that will be put together and finished just like one of your own dresses. The style we will select will be on the order of a French dress, that is, a long waist and short skirt. The pattern for the waist is in seven parts: they are the front, side front, back, side back, sleeve, collar, and cuff. The skirt is only one piece.
Three quarters of a yard of material will be sufficient to make a dress for a doll from eighteen to twenty inches in height.
In all patterns that are bought only one half is given; sometimes all the seams—which are a very important part of a dress—are given and sometimes they are omitted. Any pattern that is published by a reliable firm tells on the envelope whether you should allow for the seams or not.
The pattern is usually of tissue paper and each piece has perforations or holes of different shapes. One shape means this side must be placed on the fold of the material, another shape or perforation the same shape only grouped differently, means that the pattern should be placed on a straight thread of the material. Still another means “gather here.” If there are tucks in the pattern they are usually indicated. Where the seams join each other, little notches are made and corresponding notches are placed together and pinned after the pattern is cut.
Let us suppose the material is forty-five inches wide. Place the centre of the skirt on the fold of the material and pin in place. Your pattern should be planned and pinned on a flat surface such as a sewing table. Place the pins through the tissue pattern and both thicknesses of the material, letting the head and the point of the pin be visible to the eye. Do not cut any piece of your pattern until you have planned and pinned every piece, as that is the only way you can economize on your material (Figure 77). Often a pattern cut before each piece is planned comes to grief if an over-supply of material has not been provided.
The centre front is also placed on the fold of the material as well as the centre, back and collar. The sleeves are now fitted in, so that the perforations rest on the straight thread of the material. The side front and back and cuffs are also pinned to the material. The pattern now pinned, take a large pair of cutting scissors and holding the blunt part toward the table, cut close to the tissue pattern, or if no seams are allowed, the width stated in directions should be allowed for the seams.
Let us make the sleeve first. Take one sleeve and holding with the right side join notches together (Figure 78). Baste the sleeves up on the seams one eighth of an inch from the edge. When the basting is finished make a row of fine running stitches. Turn the sleeves on the wrong side and baste them before working the combination stitches. The sleeves are now ready to be banded. The band is taken and sewed on the short side. The seaming is taken on the wrong side of the material. A little seam is taken on each of the long sides of the cuff. Fold the cuff in half. The turns or folds are opened out and now turn the cuff inside out. Run a gathering thread at the lower edge of the main part of the sleeves starting the thread one half inch from each side of the seam. Place the cuff around the sleeve so that cuff seam rests on the seam of the sleeve. Pin into position. It will probably be necessary to pull or adjust the gathering thread so that the lower part of the sleeve be just the size of the cuff. Baste the band on after it has been pinned satisfactorily before working the combination stitch.
Turn the sleeve inside out and fold the cuff in the creases. Hem the inner side of the cuff to the wrong side of the sleeve. On the upper side of the sleeves run another gathering thread about one inch and a half from the seam (Figure 79). We have now finished with the sleeve until the waist proper is ready.
Now take the centre back and side back and baste them together. Join the pieces so that the notches correspond. Work the combination stitch three eighths of an inch from the edge. The side fronts are joined to the backs under the arm and on the shoulders. The front is then sewed to the right side of the waist only. It will be necessary to face the centre front piece and the left side front. Take a bias strip of material not more than three quarters of an inch wide and fold an eighth of an inch on each side of this strip. Join the shoulder seams together, one side of the back to the right side of the front and the other side to back. Sew with combination stitches, then make a felled seam as explained for the sleeve. Baste the turned fold to the right-hand side of the waist by opening out creased side and placing the two right sides together and stitching one eighth of an inch from the edge. Turn the bias over to the wrong side of the waist and slip stitch. Slip stitching, as I have explained before, is somewhat like hemming; only the stitches are taken back of the folded edge and catch one thread only of the material.
The other bias band is basted in like manner to the left-hand side of the waist.
The sleeves are ready to be put in. Measure one and one quarter inches from the under arm seam on the waist, which is the short seam near the front of the waist. Pin the seam of the sleeve to this point. Pin the rest of the sleeve so that the gathers are evenly distributed. Pin the right side of the sleeve to the right side of the waist. Baste securely. Remember that the gathers should be thickest on the upper part of the sleeve (Figure 80). Stitch with fine back-stitching and then overcast. The neck may be bound or may have the collar attached.
Turn and hem the outer edge of the collar; a ruffle of lace may be added if desired. Baste the collar to the waist, and try the waist on Sally Ann. If it is a satisfactory fit, stitch in place. It is well to cover the raw edges with a little bias fold. Hem the fold down on both sides.
The long strip is not joined, but a half-inch hem folded on one side and then stitched. The skirt is plaited or kilted, as it is often called. A hem is made on each of the short sides of the strips. Now crease the material as if you were going to make a tuck three quarters of an inch deep. A box plait will next have to be planned; again crease your material as if you were going to make a tuck three quarters of an inch deep. These creases must be exactly three quarters of an inch from the double fold of each piece. Measure an inch and a half, then turn the material under so that a three-quarter inch piece is under the left side of the waist line. This completes the box plait.
The plaits from there on are folded toward the left, while the first two were toward the right. Baste each plait down securely. When working on cotton materials that have a lot of dressing, the creases are likely to stay in without basting, but while working on it the edges are apt to get turned up. Basting (Figure 81) is therefore the surer and safer way to keep the plaits in position, while for woollen or soft, sleazy materials it is the only way.
When every plait has been basted lengthwise, take another thread and baste them crosswise three or four times.
Join the waist to the skirt, taking care that the centre of the box-plait is under the direct centre of the front of the waist.
A sash will be needed to finish this dress. It can be tacked in place or little straps of ribbon may be stitched at intervals and the ribbon run through the straps (Figure No. 81A).
If this dress had been stitched on the machine it would have been better to make tailored seams on the waist; that is, a narrow seam is taken on the wrong side. The material is then turned back so that on one side of the seam it slightly overlaps the other. Baste in place and stitch on the edge. Tailored seams do not require any extra allowance of material. They should slant toward the right on the right side of the garment and toward the left on the left side. If the seams were stitched to run in one direction the garment would have a very one-sided appearance.
Press all the wrinkles caused by handling the dress in sewing. It is best to lay a damp cloth over the material rather than place the iron directly on the material. You will need a small iron for this dress. Press each plait down carefully. Take out the basting threads before trying on the dress.
There are good, bad and indifferent dressmakers, and I know you wish to be one of the former. Sew a row of buttons on the left front of the dress and make little buttonholes to correspond on the right side.