XXV Simple Bead Chains on Single Strings, a Home-Made Loom, Woven Chains, Belts and Purses
Have you ever taken pop corn and made a chain of it for Christmas trees, or perhaps you have strung cranberries? Maybe it was the first time that you ever held a needle. I remember when we were youngsters living in the South, our nurse used to take us out under trees and we would string “Job’s Tears” for hours. Many drug stores sell these seeds on strings for infants to cut their teeth on.
The simplest form of bead work is just as easy as stringing pop corn or berries. Beads come in all sizes from the tiny ones that are no bigger than a top of a pin to the large ones the size of a marble. Sometimes you can get odd-shaped beads, flat on one side and curved on the other. A string that is pretty enough to wear on state occasions can be made of heart-shaped and round beads.
The regular bead needle is very fine and long. It is better when stringing a single strand to double the thread. Use linen thread No. 100 or 150. Thread the needle with a piece of thread eight inches longer than double the length of the necklace. Bring the two ends together and make a knot three and a half inches from the ends of the thread. The thread will be very much stronger if you wax it. Now thread seven small round beads then an odd shaped one. Repeat in this manner till you have the length of chain desired. Cut off the needle and tie the remaining thread in a tight knot close to the beads. Ribbons are sometimes used to fasten the chain or necklace together but the little clasps that you can buy for a few cents are neater and do not get soiled as ribbon does. Fasten on the clasp with the thread that extends beyond the knots.
A sweet little daisy chain can be made on two threads. Thread two bead needles with two long threads. Bring one end of each thread together and make a knot as described above. Fasten the knot to a table with a pin so that one needle is on the right and the other one on the left. Thread two white beads on your right hand needle. Put your left hand needle down through the white bead so that you have a thread coming from each side of the beads. Your needles will have changed position. Thread the right hand needle with one yellow bead. Pass the left hand needle down through this and again the needles are reversed. Thread two more white beads like the first two and do the same thing. Now take the right hand needle and thread two more white beads and carry the needle through the first two white beads from right to left. Thread two more white beads on the same needle and carry it through the second or top group of white beads from left to right. Thread ten green beads on each of the needles and now we are ready to make another daisy (Figure 215). Continue in this manner till the necklace is complete.
Another and more elaborate daisy chain is made on one needle. Make a knot in the thread and string four green beads. Hold this down between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Thread one green bead and pass through the third of the four beads. Thread another green bead and pass through the first bead. Thread one white bead and pass through the green one on the left. Thread another green bead and pass through the green one to the left (Figure 216).
Third row—Thread a green, pass into a green to the left. Now thread a white bead and pass in through the first white bead.
Fourth row—Thread a yellow bead and pass through last white, and a green bead through the green.
Fifth row—A green bead through the last green, a white through the yellow.
Sixth row—A white bead through the last white, a green through the last green.
Seventh row—A white through the last green, a green through the last white of the sixth row.
Then three white beads on the needle and pass through the first white on the second row. Carry the thread through the daisy thus formed till you have it again in same position as it was before you threaded the three beads.
Eighth row—One green into the last green, one white into the last white. (Note that you are now starting another daisy on the left-hand side).
Ninth row—One yellow into last white, one green into last green.
Tenth row—One green into last green, one white into yellow.
Eleventh row—One white into last white, one green into green.
Twelfth row—One white into last green, one green into white.
Repeat the directions from the second row. Note that though the chain is four beads wide there are only two beads that you work on in each row.
If the thread breaks, start the new one, two or three rows back and go through the different beads.
The above directions are for a chain that is worked without a loom. Now-a-days it is quite possible to buy a little loom for about fifty cents, but you can make one at home that will not cost you a penny. The size of the loom will depend on what you are working but we presume that it is a chain. Should you ever make a purse it would pay you to buy a loom.
To make the home-made loom get a piece of card and a wooden meat skewer such as butchers use. Fasten the skewer down on both ends to the cardboard about two inches from the upper edge. One inch above the skewer in the direct centre make a hole and one inch from the bottom edge of the cardboard make another hole. Cut six pieces of No. 90 linen thread, thirty-six inches long. This measurement is sufficient for a chain twenty-seven inches or under. Tie one end of each thread to the skewer. Now holding the six threads together, carry them down through the bottom hole across the back of the cardboard and tie in a loose knot to the top hole.
Thread a bead needle with a thread of No. 100 linen thread that has been well waxed. Tie the thread to the extreme right hand thread of the warp. Now we are ready to make the chain (Figure 217).
First row—Thread the needle with five yellow beads. Pass the needle toward the left under the warp threads, letting one bead slip in every space. On the left hand side bring the needle up to the right side and slip it through the five beads.
Second row—Thread five blue beads and fasten them in the same way.
Third row—Thread five yellow beads.
Fourth row—Five red beads.
Fifth row—Five red beads.
Sixth row—Two red, one blue and two red.
Seventh row—One red, three blue, one red.
Eighth row—Five blue.
Ninth row—One red, three blue, one red.
Tenth row—Two red, one blue, two red.
Eleventh row—Five red.
Twelfth row—Five red.
Continue in this manner for as many inches as needed (Figure 218). When you have used up all the warp threads on the upper side of the cardboard roll the finished chain over the skewer and fasten the remaining threads in the lower hole.
To make a belt or purse the larger loom will be necessary. Designs used for cross stitch are suitable for bead work.
Before I tell you how to make any more bead chains and the other articles that may be made with beads, I want to tell you how to make a dainty purse that is illustrated in this chapter. It is made of gold and rose-coloured glass beads and it belongs to a bright little girl I know who has been using it for the past three years. A spool of heavy buttonhole twist of a colour to correspond to one of the coloured beads is needed (Figure 221).
Take eighteen strands of silk, each a yard long. See that the ends are all even. Tie a tight knot through the centre of the threads. Thread a bead needle with one of the strands of silk. Put on two pink beads then three yellow, five pink, three yellow, five pink, three yellow, five pink, three yellow, five pink, five yellow, one pink, seven yellow, one pink, seven yellow, one pink, seven yellow, one pink, five yellow, five pink, three yellow, five pink, three yellow, five pink, three yellow, five pink, three yellow, seven pink. This completes the first string. Do not allow any beads to drop, which they are very apt to do while you are working on another row. It is suggested that the strand of silk on the left of the beads should be knotted closely to the beads to prevent them from slipping.
Unthread your needle and take the next strand; thread two pink, one yellow, then slip your needle through the second yellow bead of the first row, thread one yellow, five pink, one yellow, now slip your needle through the middle yellow bead of the first row or in other words slip your needle through every eighth bead on the first row. The colouring remains the same. I will start the instructions again for the second row which is to be threaded, two pink, one yellow, slip needle through bead on first row, one yellow, five pink, one yellow, slip needle through bead, one yellow, five pink, one yellow, slip needle through, one yellow, five pink, one yellow, slip needle through bead, one yellow, five pink, one yellow, slip needle through bead, three yellow, one pink, three yellow, slip needle through, three yellow, one pink, three yellow, now slip needle through bead, three yellow, one pink, three yellow, slip needle, three yellow, one pink, three yellow, slip needle, one yellow, five pink, one yellow, slip needle, one yellow, five pink, one yellow, slip needle, one yellow, five pink, one yellow, slip needle, one yellow, five pink, one yellow, slip needle, one yellow, six pink, slip needle into last bead of first row and knot the two threads close to the bead. Be sure that the knot is large enough not to slip through the hole of the bead.
Thread your needle with the third strand. Put on two pink, three yellow, two pink, slip needle through third bead of first group of five pink of the second row. (For the rest of the row “slip needle” means slip the needle through the fourth bead below the one slipped through on the second row) two pink, three yellow, two pink, slip needle, two pink, three yellow, two pink, slip needle, two pink, three yellow, two pink, slip needle, two pink, five yellow, slip needle, seven yellow, slip needle, seven yellow, slip needle, seven yellow, slip needle, five yellow, two pink, slip needle, two pink, three yellow, two pink, slip needle, two pink, three yellow, two pink, slip needle, two pink, three yellow, two pink, slip needle, four pink.
The fourth row is the same as the second. Every other row from the third is also worked like the third.
The last row which joins the bag—Two pink, slip needle into fourth bead of next to last row, thread three more beads, slip into centre bead of the group of sevens of the first row. The pattern is diamond-shaped as you will note, therefore after threading your needle with three beads of the shade to correspond with the previous row slip your needle in the centre bead of the groups of seven of the preceding row and the first row. Work first to the right and then to the left.
Every two strands of silk must be knotted together to keep the beads from slipping off. Braid the threads extending beyond the bead work in groups of three. A large bead or slide will be necessary to make the purse a practical money bag. Get two big beads that have openings large enough to pass all the silk threads through. Take a knot on the silk thread after the first large bead is in position. This knot should be two inches at least from the beads. The silk threads may now be cut quite close to the knot or they may be cut one inch from the knot to form a tassel.
If the little purse was left without any further work it would look quite top heavy and unfinished, for that reason a bead tassel is suggested as shown in the illustration of the bead purse.
Thread your needle with a long strand of the buttonhole twist. String about two and a half inches of pink beads. Before commencing to string the beads fasten the thread in the heavy knot at the bottom of the purse. Catch the thread with the beads also in the knot. Make two pink strings this length and two yellow. Then make four strings, two pink and two yellow, that are not more than an inch and a half long. Fasten off the threads securely and the bag is complete.
Three bunches of pink beads and two bunches of yellow will make two purses as have just been described. The beads vary in price from six cents a bunch to twenty-five cents. Sometimes the more expensive kind have only half the number of beads that the cheaper bunches have. Do not get too small a bead or the work will become very tedious. The large beads for the slides are more expensive. They cost four cents apiece or more.
Of course other colour combinations can be made, also other patterns. Silver and blue is another pretty combination for a bead purse.
Now while we are on the topic of beads, I would like to tell you about some sensible portières and cushion tops that I recently saw at an Arts and Crafts exhibition made of an inexpensive background and beads. Monk’s cloth was used for one of the portières. Monk’s cloth is somewhat like burlap but the weave is coarser and more even. A hem was turned on one short side and one of the long sides and the thread drawn out for a space of about two inches. The threads were hemstitched and then a design of beads worked between the groups of threads. To accomplish this the design was well planned out before commencing the work. The number of beads needed to fill out the space can be judged by placing the beads in the opening and testing that for yourself. After the design has been selected make a pencil copy of it. It is better to restrict yourself at first to just two colours. Fasten your sewing thread securely to the threads of the material. Use carpet thread for the weaving. Let us suppose that you have selected a pattern that is seven rows of beads deep and you have chosen tan as the background and red and chalk white beads for the decoration:
First row—Thread one red bead, six white, one red, six white. As we will only work a section at a time, let us secure the beads. Slip your thread under the hemstitching. Now let each bead come between two consecutive groups of hemstitching. Bring your thread to the right side. Be careful not to disturb your beads. Now carry the thread through the beads again. The thread should be drawn tight but not so as to pucker the hem.
Second row—Work this by stringing one white, one red, four white, one red, one white, one red, four white, one red. Fasten as described in the first row.
Third row—One red, one white, four red, one white, one red, one white, four red, one white. Fasten.
Fourth row—One red, one white, one red, four white, one red, one white, one red, four white. Fasten.
Fifth row—One red, one white, four red, one white, one red, one white, four red, one white. Fasten.
Sixth row—One white, one red, four white, one red, one white, one red, four white, one red. Fasten.
Seventh and final row—One red, six white, one red, six white. Fasten.
After this section is worked slip your needle through the beads to the last one on the first row and continue to weave.
The beads to use for portières or large pillows are round ones that are three eighths of an inch in diameter.
For curtains, table covers or any article where the weight of the large bead is not desirable use a smaller bead that is not more than a quarter-inch in size.
Scrim curtains with a single row of the smaller beads add a pretty touch of colour to the otherwise plain window. Almost any shade can be had in the beads, but the trouble is that they can not be bought at every store. A bead supply house is the one from which to get them. They cost only one-quarter as much as when bought in a department store.
Ecru scrim with a row of turquoise blue, canary yellow and sage green beads and the simple twist stitch such as described in the chapter on “Simple Stitches in Drawn Work,” makes a curtain suitable for a simple room. The way to accomplish this work, is to take a stitch on the drawn thread, in the regular way for the twist stitch, then slip a bead on, then take another stitch, then a bead, so on to the end.
If a skeleton square of beads is desired on a sofa cushion it is advisable not to draw it out in the same manner as for a curtain.
For a two-inch border to be set in four inches from the edge, crease the cushion through the direct centre. Measure four inches from the edge and cut the material on the crease for two inches. Treat each side like this. Draw the threads out on each side of the cut, stop when you get four inches from the edge. Of course the material must be in a perfect square and just the size you want for the pillow before you begin any of the work. Place the beads as explained for the portière. Do not cut the threads you drew out but, threading a needle with two or three at a time, carry them through the beads. In this way there is no necessity for cutting and buttonholing the corners where the border intersects, as in drawn work. Loose woven materials such as monk’s or arris cloth are extremely hard to buttonhole and even after very careful work they are apt to fray.
If a fancy edge is desired for the pillow one made of beads is far more appropriate than anything else. After the pillow is complete and made up, put on the bead edge by catching a bead to the material at a short distance from each other.
For a canoe or porch pillow there is nothing more durable than bead pillows of a dark colour worked with gay coloured beads.