XXVIII Pattern Directions for Making Doll Caps and Capes, Jackets and Child’s Bedroom Slippers
Having become well acquainted with the stitches and patterns described in the previous chapter, you are competent to go on with the more intricate ones described in this chapter.
A pretty doll’s cap is made of silk. Without a silk padded lining the cap will be just the thing for the warmer months.
Doll’s Cap.
Begin by winding silk around a lead pencil 12 times: make 24 s c over this.
2nd row—Make 2 s c in every s c on first row.
3rd row—S c in every s c on 2nd row.
Continue widening often enough to keep the work nearly flat (to do this two s c instead of one are worked upon the one of the preceding row). This completes the solid work of the crown.
4th row—Ch 3, make 3 d c in same stitch, skip 4 d c in next st. Continue around entire crown.
5th row—Make a shell of 6 d c in centre of each shell of 4 d c, leaving off within 7 shells of last row.
6th row—Make a ch of 5 st and s c in middle of next shell. Ch 5, s c in middle of next shell. Continue around entire crown.
7th row—* 5 s c on each ch of 5 of previous row. Turn s c for entire row around to where the shells of 4 were left. This begins the front of cap. Turn and repeat from * 2 more rows. Next make a row of shells of 4 st in every 5th st.
8th row—Make shell of 5 d c in middle of each shell of 4 d c. Repeat these 2 groups of 4 rows of s c and 2 rows of shells twice more.
9th row—A row of 5 ch in middle of each shell, then a row of s c. Finish the cap with a row of shells of 7 d c around the entire cap. Finish shells with a row of picots made by a ch of 3 caught in every st with a s c. This completes the cap.
Doll’s Hug-Me-Tight (Figure 242).
1 skein of Saxony white.
1 skein of Shetland floss, blue.
1⅓ yards of narrow white ribbon.
Make a ch of 20 st., take up each ch with a s c.
Turn 19 s c in slipper stitch (slipper stitch is s c taken up on the back thread of the row below). Crochet back and forth in this manner until you have 8 ribs or 16 rows which form the back. Then take up 5 s c and crochet back and forth until you have 9 ribs or 18 rows, which forms the one front. Then count nine stitches for the neck, taking up the remaining 5 sts for the other front and make 9 ribs or 18 rows for the other front. Finish with a border all around of s c taking up the whole stitch, alternating the colours, 1 row blue and 1 white until you have four blue and four white, finish the whole with a blue picot.
Cut the ribbon into six pieces, sew one piece in each of the outer edges to form the armhole and front as illustrated. This jacket can be made for a child by commencing with 45 ch, 25 ribs for back and 25 ribs for fronts.
Jacket (Figure 243).
Pompadour wool through which a thread of silk runs, was used for making this pretty jacket. Three skeins of the wool are required.
The body of the sacque is of star stitch (Figure 244).
Ch 95 on which work 11 stars, widen with 2 ch.
For sleeve make 11 stars, and back, 25 stars.
One front 11 stars. For the first 4 rows of front work 11 stars, widen with 2 ch work across sleeve, widen 2, work across back, widen 1 star every other row; at sleeve widen 2, across sleeve widen 2, then 11 stars from the front. After the 4th row continue as before, only widening 1 star at the four sleeve points for 10 rows. In 15th row work 11 stars for the sleeve, now drop out the entire sleeve, including the widening points, work across back alone, leave out sleeve as before then 11 stars for the second front; work 12 rows across sacque widening under arms as in centre back. Tie wool at point under arm and work 13 rows around sleeve joining each row as made. For border, work 4 rows of knot stitch.
Slippers in single crochet (Figure 245).
One skein of each of two contrasting colours of Germantown wool, one pair of soles. For making these slippers in mercerized Perle cotton, which is very cool for warmer days, two balls will be required.
In making slippers it is very essential for the work to be as tight as possible to prevent it from stretching.
The following directions are for slipper size 3. Ch 11 sts. Make 11 s c in slipper stitch, described in doll’s hug-me-tight (Figure 246) widen in the centre by making 3 s c in 1 ch. Make two rows like last widening in centre, then a row without widening. When the work reaches from the toe to the hollow part of the sole (about 12 ribs) the front is long enough. (Alternate two rows one colour and two in the other.) Turn and work 15 s c. Continue in the slipper stitch until the work will reach around the sole by stretching. Join the end to the front by overcasting on the wrong side. Beginning at the corner where the end is joined make a row of crazy stitch around to the other side. Make 3 more rows of crazy stitch. Finish with a row of shells.
Directions for crazy stitch—Make a ch of 4 sts; then throw the thread once over the needle, take up the third nearest stitch to the needle, and pull it through the loop; throw the thread over again and pull it through the nearest two loops on needle and crochet the remaining two loops off in the same manner. This completes the d c described in chapter 27. Make two more d c in the same loop, skip 3 stitches, fasten with a sl st in next st 3 ch. 4 shells in next st. and continue for length desired.
Slippers in Star Stitch (Figure 247).
4 balls of mercerized crochet cotton.
Star stitch is made by a ch of the required length. Insert hook in 2nd ch from it, draw wool through, keeping both sts on hook, insert hook in 3rd ch and draw wool through keeping this st also on the hook, skip the next ch and take up the 4th and 5th in same manner, making 5 sts on hook; now drop the strands of wool from which these sts were made, and take up wool of contrasting colour, double end into a loop with short end about one inch in length, draw this through all the sts on hook, being careful not to let this short end slip through, ch 1 to hold sts in place. Now with this new strand work a star by drawing it through the eye of star, it being the tightest stitch near the ch on hook keeping both sts on hook as before.
Draw wool also through long st down the side of star, then through next 2 ch which gives 5 sts on hook, then dropping the strand from which this star was made pick up the wool of 1st star and loop it through these 5 sts and ch 1 to hold the star in place. This ch should be worked tight so it will draw the sts together and form the star, which should be almost square. In the second row place the contrasting colour over the star underneath, tying in the wool, ch 3 on which take up 2 sts; this gives you 3 sts on hook, the next 2 loops are drawn through the long and short stitches of star underneath, taking up back stitch of the long and both strands of the short or eye of star.
For the slipper proper.
Ch 9, on which make 3 stars, 2 ch at end then work 3 stars down the other side of ch, taking up the other thread.
2nd row—4 stars, 2 ch, 4 stars.
3d row—without widening.
Widen 2 stars every other row until you have 10 rows 2 rows without widening, then widen in the next.
There will be 13 rows in all, and 20 stars in this last row, now divide front and work 20 stars on either half for the sides; fit around sole by stretching and sew up the back on the wrong side. The wool or thread should be broken at the end of each row. (Crochet should not be worked backward and forward unless directions are given to that effect.)
For a frill around the slippers work groups of 6 ch st two more rows of the same. I always sew my slippers onto the soles after being finished, by overcasting with wool of the same shade on the right side, which saves stretching the slippers all out of shape when turning them.
Jacket in Shell Stitch (Figure 248).
Material: 5 skeins of white Germantown and 1 skein of colour for edge. No. 7 bone needle.
Ch 127, with 3 extra sts for turning.
1st row—Skip 2 ch and make 4 d c in the next. * Skip 3 ch, 1 s c in next, ch 3, 4 d c in same st with s c and repeat from * ending with a final s c.
2nd row—Turn 1 s c in s c below * 2 d c in same st, 1 s c in next s c below and repeat from * ending with a s c in top of turning ch.
3rd row—Turn ch 3, 4 d c in s c below * 1 s c in next s c, ch 3, 4 d c in same st repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows 9 times, then repeat the 2nd row once more. This gives a depth of work sufficient for the back part of sleeves. At the end of the last row fasten off.
The lower part of the back is now to be made. Count 8 shells (sh) along from the end of the last row and begin to crochet there, working as with 3rd row until within 8 sh of each other end of last long row.
Crochet in pattern upon this row until 11 rows in all have been worked. Upon the 12th row increase 1 sh in the 2 s c from each end by making 2 sh in those st instead of one.
Work without increasing for 13 rows more, then fasten off.
Go back to the foundation and upon the other side of it, beginning where the first row ended, crochet 13 sh as in 1st row. This is the commencement of the left shoulder and front.
Upon this row work 3 rows more in the usual way. At the end of the last row drop the loop temporarily from the needle, tie in an extra ball of wool at the top of the very beginning of the last row, ch 12 and fasten off. With this ch the extra width for the centre of the front is secured.
5th row—Again take the dropped loop upon the needle and crochet as usual making 3 sh upon the extra ch. The row is now 16 sh wide. Work in pattern for 17 rows more, the last row ending at the wrist. Fasten off.
On the 1st short row of lower front count 8 sh along from end of last row, begin there, work as usual to the other end, then crochet back and forth until the front is as long as the back, increasing 1 sh on the 13th row in the 2 s c from the underarm seam. The second front is made exactly like the first. The 3rd pattern row now is worked up the fronts around the neck, across the lower edge of jacket and sleeves, then finished with a scalloped edge worked as follows: Make 1 s c in space preceding st where s c was made on row below, ch 5, 1 s c on top of 1st d c below, ch 4, 1 s c in same space, ch 5 and repeat from beginning around all the edges, fasten off.
Shape the jacket by crocheting the sleeves and underarm seams together.
Crochet should be carefully washed and should not be put in the general laundry. Make suds of warm water and a little borax. Put the article, if of cotton or linen thread in and let it soak for a little while, then squeeze the water out of the article between the hands. Rinse in several waters in this manner always using warm water.
Put the piece in a white bag and hang on the line.
This way keeps the piece from stretching out of shape. Keep it on the line till the article is perfectly dry.
Knitted articles should also be treated in like manner when washing for if a knitted piece was pinned on a line to dry the article would be stretched out of shape.