XVII Hardanger Embroidery for Squares, Pin Cushions, and Spreads
We have to go back to the foreign embroideries to find those that are beautiful and yet substantial enough to last beyond the usual life of a piece of fancy work. There is nothing we have originated in embroidery on this side of the world as rich as Hardanger work, and yet it is comparatively little known. The background for this work is a loosely woven material like scrim or basket weave materials such as Java canvas or the regular Hardanger canvas which is imported.
It is lots of fun working Hardanger in wool on Java canvas as it goes so quickly, and after we have learned the stitches we can work it on as fine a canvas as we desire.
The simplest stitch is the block. Thread a large tapestry needle with a piece of heavy wool. On your piece of Java canvas work a little block. The worsted is on the right side of the canvas, and then taking a stitch over four threads of the canvas bring the needle up on the next opening to the right on the same line as the first. Five stitches constitute a block; a space of four threads is then left and the next block started, (Figure 161). A great deal of Hardanger has these blocks running at right angles to each other with no space between the blocks. Mistakes cause a great deal of trouble and sometimes it is necessary to rip out quite a lot of stitches before they can be rectified and for that reason you must be very accurate in your counting.
The star is another favourite figure in Hardanger work (Figure 162). Four stitches are taken over four threads of the material, side by side, then five stitches over eight threads of the material and then four again. This forms one side of the star. The second side is made exactly the same only that at the base of the thirteenth stitch the first stitch of the second side starts forming a right angle. The star has four sides as you will note in the diagram of this stitch. Now count and see if there are twelve threads on each of the inner sides of the star. If you find any mistake go over it and straighten it out. There must be twelve threads on each side. Cut four from each corner. This will leave four threads directly in the centre of each side. With a piece of embroidery cotton about the weight of a thread of your canvas weave the bars. The weaving is very simple, over one and under the next till the bars are woven. Some of these bars have little knots on the outer centre edge of each. They are called picots (pronounced pe-co) and they are made somewhat like a French knot. The bar is woven half way across and laying the needle on the bar the thread is wound around the needle point. Hold each twist down with the left thumb (Figure 163). The needle is drawn through and the result is a little knot on the thread near the stitches. A little stitch is taken into the woven part of the bar and the thread carried over to the other side of the bar and another picot made.
For an ornamental stitch to be used on the material between the stars or blocks make a diagonal stitch like the first stitch in cross stitching (Figure 164).
Pin cushion tops are easy to make and the following instructions are given for cushions about four or five inches square. Take a square of scrim or Hardanger canvas eight inches large. It will be necessary to pull a thread so that the material will be quite straight on the edges. Pull out four threads about one and a quarter inches from the edge on each side of the material. Turn a quarter-inch fold on one side and crease the material again so as to make a half-inch hem. Baste it down so that it just touches the drawn threads. Repeat on the four sides. Be sure that at the corner the double thickness of drawn threads are exactly over each other. We are now ready to hemstitch the hem. Thread the needle with No. 90 sewing cotton. Run the thread under the hem and holding the double part of the hem toward you take up four threads of the material. Pass the needle again around this group and now into the hem. Continue in this manner around the four sides. At the corners it will be necessary to take up both thicknesses of the material.
Crease the finished square in four. Count sixteen threads upon the crease from the hemstitching and with lustre No. C or heavy linen thread “aa” make a little block of four strands of floss over four threads of the material. Make a flight of eight blocks each at right angles to the other. Now instead of continuing in the same direction turn and work seven more groups down and to the left. Turn again to the left and work seven blocks for the third side of the square. Six groups to the right of the third row completes the square.
Now with your fine embroidery scissors cut close to the stitches of the three blocks at each corner. The cut threads are drawn out. Four more cuttings will be necessary on each side. They should be made against the stitches only; that is, the threads that are running in the same direction as the stitches should be cut. Figure 165 shows where the cuts were made and the threads drawn out. The remaining threads are woven. A mercerized or dull finished marking cotton is used for the weaving. It may be either the plain weaving or may have picots on each side of the bar. Another pretty arrangement of picots is to place them on one side of the bars so that they appear in groups of four each facing the other (Figure 165).
Sometimes a lace stitch is used such as the spider or simple loop stitch. Directions for making a spider will be found in the chapter on lace stitches. The loop stitch is made by taking a stitch in the centre edge of each bar. Take a stitch just as if you were buttonholing.
Buttonholing the edge is preferred by many to hemstitching.
A pretty stitch often seen bordering a row of drawn work is made in pyramid form. It can be as deep as desired. First take a stitch over two strands of the material then three, then four, then five and down again to two (Figure 166). This stitch must be worked of course before any of the threads are drawn.
If a little larger and more elaborate square is wanted, take a piece of material nine or ten inches square. Make a star, skip four threads and work the open squares described for the smaller pin cushion.
On the opposite side of the square, directly across from the first star, skip four threads and make another square. At the other two corners of the square make a star (Figure 167).
The German peasant girls are proud of their aprons with a border of Hardanger embroidery. It is a common thing for them to have a border fifteen or eighteen inches deep. Often they will make yards and yards of a pattern, say four inches wide, and they will insert it above the hems on sheets and towels and cut out the background material.
There is no nation on earth as thrifty as the Germans. A German girl I know who is only nineteen years old has her entire bedroom fitted up with Hardanger articles that she has made herself. First there is the bedspread and bolster, each most elaborately embroidered with an all-over design. Then there is a round pillow (the edge buttonholed) and a square pillow as well as the bureau scarf and pin cushion. If she bought the articles already worked she would have paid hundreds of dollars for the outfit, while the actual cost was only a few dollars. Nearly all the best of fancy-work shops sell small pamphlets on Hardanger work that are not expensive and after one is familiar with the foundation stitches it is an easy matter to follow the designs they give.