Needlecraft

XIX Hemstitching for Handkerchiefs and Collar and Cuffs Sets, Also Simple Drawn-Work Stitches

Drawn work is another of the fascinating branches of fancy work and when used in combination with embroidery it greatly enriches the piece. Suppose now that you wanted to make a handkerchief and yet did not want to take the time to buttonhole the four edges. Well there is nothing more appropriate than hemstitching. The very expensive handkerchiefs only have two threads drawn before hemstitching them but it will be easiest to hemstitch when more threads are pulled.

Handkerchief linen that can be bought from one dollar up per yard is of course the correct thing to use, but lawn or fine china silk is often substituted.

A third of a yard of linen thirty-six inches wide will make three handkerchiefs. A thread will have to be drawn so that the squares will be perfectly straight. A twelve-inch square of linen will make a nice little handkerchief. Narrow hems not more than one-quarter inch wide are more generally used at present so we will plan our handkerchief for that.

Measure up from the edge of one side five eighths of an inch and draw out four threads one at a time. The other three sides must also be treated in like manner. After measuring the first side with the tape measure the other sides are more accurately measured by turning up one corner of the side that has the thread drawn so that it forms a right angle. The upper edge of the angle must just touch the drawn threads. Crease firmly along the diagonal as shown in the diagram. Now with the piece still folded over pull the first thread of the second side of the handkerchief so that the corner when turned back forms a perfect square (Figure 173).

When the threads of the four sides have been drawn fold back one eighth of an inch, then make a double fold so that the hem is just one-quarter inch wide. Baste it down so that the folded edge lies right under the drawn threads. With your needle threaded with a piece of No. 100 sewing cotton, start from one corner. Let the end of your threaded needle fall between the two thicknesses of the material. Bring the needle through the edge of the hem. Work from right to left; pass the needle under four of the upright threads. Now pass again under the same group of four threads, but this time carry the needle through the edge. Hem directly on a line with the fourth thread of the group (Figure 174).

Another way is to hold the material with the hem toward you and work from left to right. Pass the needle under four threads letting the thread in the needle fall under the point of the needle. Pull the needle through, thus forming a loop and taking a stitch into the hem in the usual way (Figure 175).

If your thread gives out or breaks, start the next thread by working over two or three of the stitches.

In hemstitching the corners take up four of the double threads.

When hemstitching on coarser material more threads can be drawn and also a greater number of threads can be taken up when working.

Dainty little collar and cuffs sets can be made by hemstitching the hems: and a quarter of an inch above this work make a row of French knots or feather-stitching.

Sometimes when a very open effect is desired it is necessary to double hemstitch the threads. This is very simple. Hemstitch in the usual way, then turn the work and take up each group on the other side of the drawn threads (Figure 176).

Drawn work is worked to perfection in Mexico. There they have large classes for the mountain children who do most elaborate pieces on frames.

Hemstitching is not always necessary in doing drawn work. Many beautiful borders can be made with simple stitches.

The sheaf stitch (Figure 177) is made by pulling the threads for a space of a quarter of an inch or more. Decide the width that you desire and then cut the threads perpendicularly. Draw the first and last thread to the distance desired, and then cut opposite end to match the first slash. After the threads have been drawn out neatly buttonhole the cut edges with narrow buttonhole stitches. Now place your work in your embroidery hoops, or, better still, if it is possible, buy a pair of oval ones that are especially made for drawn work. Fasten thread in the centre of one of the buttonholed sides.

The number of threads to take up will depend on the coarseness of the weave of the material. For medium weight linen take up either six or eight threads using a stitch like that shown in the first step of the second method of hemstitching. Pass on to the next stitch and when the row is finished fasten in the second buttonholed side. The thread that passes from sheaf to sheaf should lie straight enough so as not to sag between each group or pucker the material.

Another pretty stitch that reminds one of a fish bone is worked somewhat like feather-stitching.

Prepare the space as for the sheaf stitch. Connect the thread in the same way. Take up six threads on the left hand side placing the thread under the point of the needle as it comes through. Now on the right hand side divide the group made by the first stitch in half and take the last three threads and the three next to it that are not worked (Figure 178).

A simple stitch is the twist stitch (Figure 179). Prepare the material in the same way as for the last two stitches and securely fasten your needle in the centre of the bar, skip the first three threads. Take up the next three on your needle; pass the needle back under the first three. Continue like this till the end of the row is reached.

A dainty all-over effect suitable for yokes or corners of handkerchiefs, cloths, etc., is made by drawing the threads out so that the material left forms squares. Pull a quarter inch of threads then leave a half inch of material. Repeat in this manner until the space is covered. Cross the lines, forming squares of the material (Figure 180).

The double hemstitching, sheaf-stitch, fishbone, or twist stitch can be worked on the drawn threads. You will note that you will have at each corner of the solid squares an open quarter-inch square. They will require an extra stitch such as the spider described in the lace stitches or the loop stitch described in the Hardanger chapter.

Sometimes it is hard pulling the threads of linen. If the threads are soaped they come out very easily. Do not wet the soap but just rub it dry on the material.

Some of the finest examples of hand embroidery or drawn work are found in the convents. Perhaps you are under the impression that drawn work must be done right with the hem, but that is not so. I want to describe a beautiful handkerchief to you that I once saw in a convent. It was made of the sheerest handkerchief linen and one thread only had been pulled for the hemstitching. A quarter of an inch above the hem another thread was drawn, but this time, instead of letting it extend to the hem, a thread was cut one quarter of an inch from the hem at the beginning and ending. Six threads were drawn like this at eighth of an inch spaces. The four sides were treated in like manner.

Where the threads intersected at the corner, the squares were hemstitched all around, two stitches being allowed to each side of the square. The stitches were taken through to the centre of each square. Beyond where the lines intersected the six long lines were treated quite differently. A piece of fine braid not more than an eighth of an inch wide was taken on the space between the first two rows of drawn threads. A regular cat-stitch was worked over this. First a stitch was taken on the drawn threads above the braid, then, one below it (Figure 181). When the braid was entirely covered with stitches on the first row, a second piece of tape or braid was placed over the space between the second and third rows of drawn threads. This time instead of catching the thread of both rows, the stitches are taken into those of the previous row on one side of the tape and into the third row of drawn threads on the other side of the tape. Five rows of tape complete the band between the stitches. Of course all this work is on the wrong side of the handkerchief. On the right side, a totally different effect is produced. At first glance you would think that there are five rows of tiny tucks with hemstitching on each side, until you look again closely and see that it is padded hemstitching (Figure 182).

A section of a drawn work handkerchief for some ambitious little girl to own is shown in the illustration on this page (Figure 183). It is like a cobweb. A piece of handkerchief linen twelve inches square is selected. Starting from the outer edge of the four sides an eighth of an inch wide space is left, then the threads drawn for an eighth of an inch. Repeat this seventeen times. At the corners the space and drawn threads form squares.

Now the rest of the space should be divided up in like manner, so starting from one corner of the solid square in the centre, draw the threads for an eighth of an inch, then leave a space the same length and then draw again. Continue in this manner on the four sides of the centre square. Pull out all the cut threads and you find that you have a deep border of little squares. Buttonhole around the four sides of the centre square with tiny stitches, thus keeping the linen from fraying.

To get the pointed edge as shown in the handkerchief, buttonhole over the line of horizontal threads and four of the vertical. The little filling stitch I am going to suggest to you is so simple that really after you have buttonholed the handkerchief your task is almost completed.

Start in the first point under the solid square and work diagonally across the open space. Pass your thread around the centre of the little square also on the diagonal. Continue across till you reach the buttonholed edge around the linen square in the centre.

Skip the next point and work the same stitch in every other point. This stitch and in fact all the rest of the handkerchief should be carried out in No. 200 sewing cotton.

In between the worked points make another stitch which is very similar to the one just described.

It is started from the edge and a stitch is taken on the diagonal across four of the squares and half way across the solid squares at the corner of each group.

Having reached the buttonholing next the linen you turn your work and repeat the stitch over the same square. The stitches now form the figure 8.

The design of drawn work in the centre of the square is simple as well as being particularly pleasing. Draw the threads for a half-inch space, one quarter of an inch above the buttonholing. This must be done on the four sides of the square. The corners must be buttonholed before beginning the drawn work. Start the first thread for the drawn work in the centre of one of the buttonholed corners. Work the sheaf stitch all the way across. Now start a second thread, knotting the first sheaf in three, the next in two; so on to the end. These stitches are taken quite close to the linen. Both sides of the sheaf stitch are treated the same.

The daisy in the corner completes the pattern. The daisy is made on the foundation of cross-stitches caused by the sheaf stitch. A Maltese cross is made thus forming twelve stitches catching all these together in the centre. Now weave a thread around in a circle, one eighth of an inch from the centre. To form the petals of the daisy start a thread from one of the threads that connect with the buttonholing and catch on the woven circle as you would if you were doing fagotting.

Wherever threads are drawn so that they intersect at right angles, as in the case of this handkerchief, a space is left vacant which is very unsightly if not filled in with some figure. Here it was with the daisy which is extremely easy but in the majority of cases it is with the Maltese cross.

The wide strip of drawn work shows a pretty pattern for linen scarfs. It is nothing but right that every girl should take an interest in her bedroom. She may not be fortunate enough to have one entirely by herself but that does not excuse her from trying to make it as attractive as possible. The key-note to beauty and elegance is simplicity. Better have a dainty bureau scarf hand made and a few necessary toilet articles than a bureau beribboned and with a lace scarf, crowded with old visiting cards, dance orders, and dainty nothings that only catch the dust and give one a bewildered feeling when one looks at them. The scarf should be worth displaying if it is hand work, for remember what is worth doing is worth doing well.

The butterfly pattern of drawn work (Figure 184) is simple and pretty enough to please the most exacting and as has been said before is most appropriate for bureau scarfs. The material of the scarf may be linen, lawn, or scrim. It is quite unnecessary that the drawn work extend around the whole scarf—three sides, one long and the two short, being quite sufficient.

Draw the threads out for an inch, then hemstitch the cloth on both sides of the space; be sure to take up the group of threads already hemstitched when working on the second side. Fasten the thread in the direct centre of one end of the drawn work and catch eight groups of threads to form the sheaf stitch. An eighth of an inch above the centre thread start another thread. Divide the sheaf in thirds and knot each section of the first sheaf. Pass the thread to the second sheaf and repeat the same thing, this time under the centre instead of above it. Alternate sheaves are divided above the centre line and the remaining sheaves under.

A third thread is started beginning an eighth of an inch below the centre and the other side of the sheaf is divided in three.

A fourth thread is started one eighth of an inch from the solid material. This time the sheaf is divided in four, in groups of two. First the top of one sheaf is woven like this, then the bottom of the next. Continue in this manner till the end of the strip is reached.

The fifth thread knots the groups on the side of each sheaf that was omitted by the fourth thread.

You will notice now that the four threads cross each other in the centre of the space between each sheaf. Knot the threads in the centre and weave across the lower four threads until you have made as large a fan as the space will allow. The remaining threads are divided in two, three on each side, and two other fans are woven on them.

In the next space the fan of four is reversed and is made in the opposite direction to the first group. This pattern is commonly termed the butterfly pattern.

Drawn work should be worked on frames, though it is not necessary to use the large square one of the Mexicans. The nicest kind of frame and one easy to handle is the oval form, which comes in different sizes. They are particularly convenient to hold a long, narrow piece, which can be worked to better advantage than on the round rings.

Every once in awhile one sees specimens of a new kind of drawn work. There is the Mexican of which we have had a few of the simplest stitches, there is the Hardanger or Swedish drawn work, which is described in another chapter, the Porto Rico drawn work which is very intricate and also very trying to the eyes, but after all none compares in simplicity to the Bulgarian drawn work. It is so substantial that often after the material of the article on which the work is done has worn out, the drawn work is as good as new and can be transferred to another piece of material.

Bulgarian drawn work instead of weakening the material as Mexican work usually does strengthens it considerably.

The work is done in spaces varying from a half inch to three inches in width. It can be done on linen, huck or lawn backgrounds, though sometimes scrim is used. Personally I do not think it pays to work elaborate patterns on scrim as the background is not substantial enough.

We will take for example the first towel end shown in this work.

Draw threads out of an inch and a half space. It is not necessary that the cloth should be hemstitched, though till you are quite familiar with the work it may be easier for counting. The hem is then turned over and hemstitched. Make the double hemstitch on the other side as described in the first part of this chapter.

I have found that though there are many threads that may be used for weaving there is nothing quite as satisfactory as Electro in its finest number. Start from the extreme lower left hand corner. Weave back and forth over three of the groups with a blunt pointed crewel needle for one quarter of the distance from the hem. Now omitting the first group weave across three. You will see that you dropped the first group and took up the fourth. Weave to the middle of the space. Now drop the second group and weave across to the fifth group until you are three quarters across the space. Now drop the third group and weave across to the sixth. Weave until the space is filled. Without breaking your thread weave the seventh, eighth and ninth, then the eighth, ninth and tenth, next the ninth, tenth and eleventh, then the tenth, eleventh and twelfth. Weaving the eleventh, twelfth and thirteenth brings you back again to the hem.

The woven threads will look somewhat like an arch of blocks. Between the arch there are six groups of threads. Let us weave that in pyramid effect. Start at the hem and weave across the six for a little more than a quarter of an inch. Then dropping the first and last groups of threads of the proposed pyramid weave over four threads for another quarter of an inch. Again dropping the first and last threads of the four you were weaving, work across two. Fasten your thread by bringing it through the woven stitches into the hem. A new thread is started in like manner. You are now ready to start another arch, close to one just made.

A little more elaborate design is shown in the second towel end, a detail of which is also given (Figures ¹⁸⁶ and ¹⁸⁷.)

After the threads have been prepared as has been just described for the first towel start from the lower left hand side and weave across the threads eight times. The weaving is very simple. First you take two groups with needle pointing to the left and then you take the one group that you didn’t take up the first time. You work back and forth as it were.

Now drop the first thread and weave across to the fourth group as in the first towel. Each set of three groups will only have eight lines however. Continue in this manner till you are one space from the solid material, then weave across four instead of three. Start to weave down on the right side over the three groups under the block of four. Now continue weaving over groups of three until the hem is almost reached then weave the last block over four (See detail of Figure 187).

On each side of these blocks weave a row working over two groups.

The groups of thread within the woven rows are woven into a triangle.

Bulgarian drawn work is used on pillow cases, handkerchiefs, towels, dresses, scarfs, or small square cloths.

Sometimes coloured threads are used and the result is very effective. Use cottons and if they are coloured boil them in salt and water before working with them.