Plate VI
PLAN OF THE NORTH EASTERN PARTS OF THE BELL ROCK, SHEWING THE POSITION OF THE LIGHT-HOUSE, RAILWAYS, AND WHARFS, &c.
Pl. VI.
The description of this Plate, representing the higher parts of the Rock as seen at low-water of spring-tides, affords the writer an opportunity of mentioning many distinguished names connected either officially, or in a friendly manner, with the erection of the Light-house. In corresponding about the state of the Rock, he has often found the advantage of this particular nomenclature of its different parts, as affording a reference to all its localities.
Site of the Light-House, and Railway-Tracks.—The site of the Light-house, which will be seen from the Plate, was fixed by the writer in a central position of what may be termed the House-Rock. From this, as a centre, the Railways ramify in various directions. Upon these the materials for the erection of the house were conveyed, and they are still partly preserved, as convenient foot-paths and wharfs, in landing stores for the Light-house. The portions of the Railway-tracks marked with light dotted lines, were only used during the continuation of the works; while those of a deeper shade represent the permanent railways.
Site of Captain Brodie’s Beacon.—The late Captain Joseph Brodie, of the Royal Navy, was perhaps not less known to the public as the fortunate bearer of Lord Duncan’s dispatches announcing the victory obtained by the British fleet off Camperdown, than for his unwearied exertions in keeping up the interest of the public, relative to the important results to navigation which would attend the erection of a Light-house upon the Bell Rock, of which notice is taken at page 88.
Site of Mr Stevenson’s Beacon.—The position of the Beacon or temporary erection delineated in Plate VIII., was fixed upon the southern side of the site of the Light-house, with the ultimate view of obtaining shelter from the breach of the north-east seas. It was farther important, for the conveniency it afforded of a communication during the progress of the works, by means of a wooden bridge, which will be understood by examining Plate XVIII.
Haldane’s Ledge—is situate on the south-eastern side of the Rock, where the writer made his first landing with his friend Mr James Haldane, architect, as noticed at page 91.
Gray’s Rock.—Toward the eastern side of the Rock, there is a small outlier, or reef, important as a low-water-mark, which is named Gray’s Rock, in compliment to the late Mr John Gray, Writer to the Signet, and the first Secretary to the Light-house Board, as noticed in the Introduction, page 5.
Smith’s Rock,—situate on the eastern side of the Light-house, derives its name from the late Mr Thomas Smith, who introduced Reflecting-Lights upon the coast of Scotland; and was the first Engineer to the Board, as noticed at page 7.
Cuningham’s Ledge.—This ledge of rock has its name from Mr Charles Cuningham, Writer to the Signet, and successor to Mr Gray, as Secretary and Cashier to the Light-house Board.
Port Hamilton.—This creek is situate at the south-eastern extremity of the House-rock, and derives its name from Mr Robert Hamilton, Sheriff of Lanarkshire, and ex officio one of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; who first landed here in the year 1805, accompanied by Mr Rennie and the writer, with a view further to ascertain the practicability of erecting the proposed Light-house, as noticed at page 95. Mr Hamilton has been a zealous member of the Bell Rock Committee since the period of its institution in the year 1807, and, from his literary habits, he has taken much interest in the pages of this work.
Port Rennie—is situate in the north-eastern part of the House-rock, and derives its name from the late Mr John Rennie, the celebrity and extent of whose works as a Civil Engineer are well known to the public. Mr Rennie was consulted by the Light-house Board relative to this work. His reports will be found in Appendix, No. IV.; and his plan in Plate VII.
Port Stevenson—enters from the north-eastern side of the Rock, and forms the principal landing-place in that direction; it was named for the writer by Mr Hamilton, at the landing above alluded to, in the year 1805.
The Abbot’s Ledge—forms the north-western extremity of the House-rock, and derives its name from a tradition (for we can find no authentic record) of one of the Abbots of Aberbrothwick having erected an Alarm-bell, to forewarn mariners of their danger in approaching the Bell Rock.
Sir Ralph the Rover’s Ledge—forms the south-western extremity of the House-rock, and takes the name of Sir Ralph the Rover from a noted pirate who is said to have landed upon it, and carried away the Alarm-bell. This traditionary story is beautifully alluded to in a ballad by Mr Southey in his Minor Poems, which, with his permission, is included in Appendix, No. II. page 438.
Dunnichen Ledge,—on the north-western side of the Rock, is named in compliment to Mr Dempster of Dunnichen, who is mentioned in the Introduction, page 5.
Dunskey Ledge,—which is contiguous to the former, is named in compliment to Sir James Hunter Blair of Dunskey, first Preses of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, as mentioned at page 6.
Arniston Ledge.—Named in compliment to the late Lord Chief-Baron Dundas of Arniston, who, while Solicitor-General and Lord Advocate of Scotland, took an active part in Light-house affairs; and visited the Bell Rock in the year 1812, as noticed at page 413.
Rattray Ledge.—In compliment to Mr Baron Clerk Rattray, who, while Sheriff of the Shire of Edinburgh, as noticed at page 98, was ex officio one of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, and, as one of the Bell Rock Committee, took much interest in the work.
Hope’s Wharf—forms the termination of the permanent railway toward the west. It was named for the Right Honourable Charles Hope, Lord President of the Court of Session, who landed here in the year 1815. While Lord Advocate of Scotland, he took a warm interest in the affairs of the Northern Light-houses, and in 1803 brought the first bill into Parliament for the erection of the Bell Rock Light-house, as noticed at page 93.
Pulteney Ledge.—So named in compliment to Sir William Pulteney, who, as a Member of Parliament, took a lively interest in the bill brought forward for the Bell Rock Light-house in the year 1803, as alluded to at page 92.
Banks Ledge.—Named in compliment to Sir Joseph Banks, who was Vice-President of the Board of Trade in the year 1806, when the Bill for the Light-house was in Parliament, and who took much interest in it, as noticed at page 101.
Cochrane’s Ledge—is named in compliment to Admiral Sir Alexander Cochrane, who first called the attention of the Light-house Board to an erection upon the Bell Rock, as mentioned at page 85.
Port Erskine—forms the principal landing-place on the western side of the Rock, and derives its name from the Honourable Henry Erskine, who, when Lord Advocate of Scotland, and ex officio one of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, brought the second Bill for the Bell Rock Light-house into Parliament, which passed in the year 1806, as stated at page 100.
Ulbster Ledge.—Named in compliment to the Right Honourable Sir John Sinclair, Baronet, of Ulbster, Chairman of the Committee of the House of Commons, and who brought up its report relative to the Bell Rock bill, as stated at page 103.
Kellie Ledge.—Named in compliment to the Earl of Kellie, who visited the works at the Bell Rock in the year 1810, as noticed at page 378.
Pitmilly Wharf—formed the western extremity of the landing-wharf in use during the Light-house operations, and was named in compliment to Mr Monypenny, now Lord Pitmilly, who, while in the commission both as Sheriff of Fife and Solicitor-General of Scotland, was a member of the Bell Rock Committee, and visited the works in the year 1810, as stated at page 378.
Kinedder Ledge—is named in compliment to the late Mr William Erskine, Sheriff of Orkney and Shetland, and a member of the Bell Rock Committee. From Mr Erskine’s literary pursuits, he took a lively interest in this work, before he left the Light-house Board, and also after he was raised to the Bench, where he took his seat as Lord Kinedder.
The Abbotsford.—This spot, where the waters of the two principal and opposite landing-places meet, is named in compliment to Sir Walter Scott, Baronet, of Abbotsford, who landed here in the year 1814, as noticed at page 419, when he wrote the beautiful and expressive lines inserted in a fac-simile of his handwriting in the 2d Title-page.
Rae’s Wharf—forms the extremity of the southern reach of the permanent railway, and derives its name from Sir William Rae, Baronet, who, in the several capacities of Sheriff-Depute and Lord Advocate of Scotland, has long been a member of the Light-house Board and Bell Rock Committee. His Lordship visited the Rock in 1810, as noticed at page 387.
Duff’s Wharf—derives its name from Mr Adam Duff, Sheriff of the shire of Edinburgh, and a member of the Bell Rock Committee, who repeatedly visited the works at the Bell Rock while in progress, particularly in the year 1810, as noticed at page 387.
Port Boyle—takes its name from the Right Honourable David Boyle, Lord Justice-Clerk, who, while Solicitor-General of Scotland, was a member of the Bell Rock Committee, and visited the Light-house in the year 1811, as noticed at page 411.
The Crown Lawyers.—This name is given to two detached rocks, which lie on the south-eastern side of the House-rock, in allusion to the Lord Advocate and Solicitor-General of Scotland, who are ex officio Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, as noticed at page 6.
The Maritime Sheriffs.—This name comprehends a range of rocks, also on the south-eastern side of the main Rock, in reference to the Sheriffs of maritime counties, who are ex officio Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, as noticed at page 6.
The Royal Burghs,—A group of rocks lying on the south-western side of the House-rock, so named from certain of the Chief Magistrates of the Royal Burghs of Scotland who are ex officio Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, as noticed at page 6.
Telford’s Ledge—is named in compliment to Mr Thomas Telford, Civil Engineer, who was requested by Sir William Pulteney to visit the Bell Rock professionally in the year 1803, as noticed at page 92.
Downie’s Ledge—derives its name from the late Mr Murdoch Downie, a Marine Surveyor of considerable eminence, who suggested a plan for erecting a Light-house on the Bell Rock, as noticed at page 93.
Neill’s Pool—derives its name from Mr Patrick Neill, a particular friend of the writer’s, who first visited the Bell Rock in 1808, as noticed at page 235. The surface of this pool measures about three fathoms across, and a fathom and a half in depth, when the tide leaves the Rock. The bottom is generally covered with boulder-stones, which are whirled about with much force when the sea is in a state of agitation.
Stuart’s Track—is on the south-western side of the Rock, derives its name from the late Captain Harry Stuart of the Royal Navy, who visited the Bell Rock in the year 1810, as alluded to at page 387. Captain Stuart took an early interest in the plans for the Light-house, both by Captain Brodie and the writer.
Bruce’s Ledge—was named in compliment to the memory of the late Mr James Bruce of the Naval Yard, Leith, who frequently visited the Bell Rock, and to whose ingenuity the Light-house service is indebted for the improved construction of a boat, delineated in Plate XI. and noticed at page 412.
Russell’s Ledge—is named in compliment to Mr Claud Russell, Accountant to the Light-house Board, who visited the Rock in the year 1812, as mentioned in page 414.
Scoresby’s Point,—the most northern part of the Rock, named in compliment to the writer’s friend Captain Scoresby junior, who has so much extended our information regarding the Polar Regions.
Trinity Rock.—This rock is named in compliment to a Committee of the Trinity House of Leith, consisting of Messrs Thomas Grindlay, John Hay, and Thomas Ritchie, who gave their advice and assistance in the fitting out and mooring the Floating-light in the year 1807, as alluded to at page 110.
Balfour’s Ledge—is named in compliment to the late Provost Balfour of Arbroath, who felt the most lively interest in the Light-house affairs. In his hospitable mansion the writer occasionally resided while the works were in progress.
Leitch’s Ledge—is named in compliment to the writer’s friend Mr Quintin Leitch, who visited the Rock in the year 1818. Mr Leitch is further noticed at page 43.
Pillans’s Ledge—is named in compliment to the writer’s friend Mr James Pillans of Leith, who took an early interest in the erection of the Light-house, and who signs the Report of the Merchants of Leith regarding it, as noticed at page 96.
The Last Hope.—This name was given by the writer to the highest part of the rock, in allusion to the narrow escape which he and the artificers made in the year 1807, by the timeous arrival of James Spink, the Bell Rock pilot at Arbroath, as noticed at page 149. Spink is a remarkably strong man, whose tout ensemble is highly characteristic of a North-country fisherman. He usually dresses in a pé-jacket, cut after a particular fashion, and wears a large flat blue bonnet. A striking likeness of Spink, in his pilot-dress, with the badge or insignia on his left arm, which is characteristic of the boatmen in the service of the Northern Lights has been taken by Howe, and is in the writer’s possession.
Forrest’s Passage.—This gully or opening on the eastern side of the Rock, is sometimes taken as a track by boats in certain states of the sea and tide. It derives its name from the late Mr John Forrest, Superintendant of Lightkeepers’ duty in the service of the Northern Lights, who is particularly noticed at page 406.
Logans’ Reach.—This reach or compartment of the Railway, on the eastern side of the Light-house, is named in compliment to the late Mr Peter Logan, foreman-builder at the Bell Rock, and his son Mr David Logan, clerk-of-works, whose active and faithful services, in their respective departments, have been too often noticed in this work to admit of reference to particular pages.
Watt’s Reach—has its name in compliment to Mr Francis Watt, foreman-mill-wright, whose services have also already been often particularised in the course of this work, and whose exertions in erecting the beacon and temporary-railways did much credit to his zeal and intrepidity. The writer also often profited by his ingenuity, in reference to the various pieces of machinery employed at the works.
Kennedy’s Reach—derives its name from Mr Lachlan Kennedy, who, as Accountant and Cashier in the Engineer’s Office, discharged the various duties of his situation in a manner equally creditable to himself and satisfactory to his employers. An Abstract-Account of the expence of the work, as drawn up by him, appears in the Appendix, No. VII. page 475.
Slights’ Reach,—named in compliment to Mr James Slight, and his brother Alexander, who were chiefly employed in drawing the courses of the building at large, and in making the various and nicely formed moulds for fashioning the stones. They also fitted up the interior of the house, and the permanent railways on the rock; and made a complete model of the Light-house.
The Smiths’ Forge and Ledge—named in compliment to Mr James Dove, foreman-smith, and his assistants, who have been frequently alluded to in these pages. It was here that the forge was erected at the commencement of the works on the Rock; and on the connecting ledge the first or experimental cargo of stones was landed.
Reid’s Ledge—is named in compliment to Mr John Reid, the first principal Lightkeeper at the Bell Rock, who retired from the service in the year 1821, as noticed at page 422.
Selkirks’ Ledge,—named for Mr Robert Selkirk, principal builder, and his brother Thomas, who was the principal stone-cutter at the work.
Wishart’s Ledge—is named for Mr Michael Wishart, some time principal builder at the Rock, as noticed at page 291.
Glen’s Ledge.—This ledge has its name from Mr James Glen, millwright and joiner, particularly noticed at page 279.
John Watt.—A detached rock on the western side of the main rock, named for John Watt, principal mortar-maker at the Bell Rock.
Peter Fortune.—A detached reef on the western side of the Rock, named for a well known character in the Light-house service, as noticed at page 299.
Gloag’s Track—leads into Port Hamilton, and is named for Mr Robert Gloag, who commanded the Light-house Yacht in the year 1807, and who has otherwise had a good deal of connection with the Light-house service.
Macurich’s Track—on the western side of the Rock, is named in compliment to Mr Thomas Macurich, mate of the sloop Smeaton, and afterwards commander of the Bell Rock Tender, who had a very narrow escape in a boat off the Rock, as noticed at page 253.
Webb’s Rock—is named in compliment to Mr Joseph Webb, one of the King’s pilots at Yarmouth, who superintended the fitting out and mooring of the Floating-light, as noticed at page 108.
Sinclair’s Track—is named in compliment to Mr George Sinclair, who, in 1807, commanded the Floating-light, and acted as landing-master.
Wilson’s Track—named for Mr James Wilson, landing-master, whose active and enterprising conduct is often noticed in the course of this work. In the year 1815, Mr Wilson left the Light-house service, when he was appointed one of the Harbour-masters of Leith. The speaking-trumpet which he used at the Bell Rock was presented to him, with the sanction of the Light-house Board, when a suitable inscription was engraved on a plate of silver attached to it.
Taylor’s Track—leads into Port Erskine, and derives its name from Mr David Taylor, who commanded the Sir Joseph Banks Tender during the progress of the works, and afterwards became Light-house Storekeeper at Leith.
Calder’s Track—situate on the north-western side of the Rock, derives its name from Mr Thomas Calder, who commanded the Light-house Yacht, and other craft, connected with the works, as noticed at page 260.
Soutar’s Track—derives its name from Mr Peter Soutar, who was one of the Praam-masters while the works were in progress. In 1815 he succeeded Mr James Wilson in the command of the Light-house Yacht.
Pool’s Track—is named for Mr Robert Pool, commander of the Smeaton stone-lighter, a very active and persevering seaman.
The Engineers’ Ledge,—situate on the eastern side of the Rock, is named in compliment to certain of the Engineer’s assistants, who, though belonging more especially to his general or private business, have nevertheless been occasionally employed in the department of the Bell Rock, particularly Mr John Steedman, Mr John Thin, Mr William Lorimer, Mr G. C. Scott, and Mr Robert Shortreed, some of whose names are attached to several of the Plates.
The Artificers.—A name given to a parcel of detached rocks, lying on the north-western side of the main Rock, in allusion to the numerous artificers employed at the works, many of whom are now moving in spheres of more extended usefulness, and, did our limits admit, would be deserving of particular notice, as may be learned from page 379.
The Mariners.—This is also a group of detached rocks on the north-eastern side of the Rock, which in like manner is named in compliment to the exertions of the Seamen, who, as men-of-all-works, gave a helping hand to every operation; and many of whom deserve the warmest acknowledgments of the writer.
Strachan’s Ledge,—situate on the north-eastern side of the Rock, was named for Mr Robert Strachan of Leith, who fitted out the Floating-light, and narrowly escaped being lost upon the Rock, when approaching it in a boat which was upset in the year 1808, as noticed at page 244.
Craw’s Horse.—Another detached rock, deriving its name from a narrow escape which the sloop Smeaton made in foggy weather, as noticed at page 364, while James Craw, who had charge of the stable, and was principal carter at the work-yard of Arbroath, was on board, with his favourite horse, on his way to Leith, to convey the upper part of the Light-house, from Edinburgh, to be shipped for the Bell Rock. The horse alluded to was a remarkably strong and powerful animal, measuring about 16 hands in height, and having, in the language of jockies, a great deal of bone. It is not a little remarkable, that while the work was in progress, this animal must actually have drawn the materials of the Light-house, extending to upwards of 2000 tons in its finished state, perhaps three or four times, in removing the blocks of stone from the ship to the work-yard, again to the platform, and from the work-yard, when they were to be shipped for the Rock, besides occasional movements to and from the hands of the stone-cutters. A sketch of this animal, and of his master James Craw, will be found at Fig. 21. Plate X. The horse having failed from age, towards the close of the work he was removed to the Island of Inchkeith, to go at large, where he died in the year 1813. The fame of this animal’s labours, together with his strength and excellent proportion as a draught-horse, having attracted the notice of Dr John Barclay, that eminent anatomist procured the bones, and set them up in his Museum. This valuable collection, it is understood, is to be bequeathed to the College of Surgeons of Edinburgh; so that the bones of the Bell Rock-horse, to use the Doctor’s own language, “will be seen and admired as a useful skeleton, and a source of instruction, when those of his employers lie mingled with the dust.”