Start Point Beacon
1801.
Numerous Wrecks on the Island of Sanday.
Among the several applications brought before the Board for additional light-houses, something still appeared to be necessary for averting the misfortunes which were annually happening on the low shores of the Northern Isles of Orkney. It had now been found, by the experience of about twelve years, that the light-house of North Ronaldsay was not calculated to prevent the numerous wrecks on the islands of Sanday and Stronsay. In the year 1796, when the author was on his annual visit to the Northern Light-houses, he was struck at seeing the wreck of three homeward-bound ships upon the island of Sanday, though situate only about eight miles southward of the light-house of North Ronaldsay. Again, in 1797, he found one wrecked ship on Sanday; but in 1798 he saw the remains of no fewer than five vessels upon that fatal island; and, in the month of December 1799, two of the numerous vessels which were driven from Yarmouth Roads in a dreadful gale of wind at south-east, were also wrecked there. The author having laid this continued and alarming state of things before the Light-house Board, in his annual report of 1801, it was resolved, that a beacon or tower of masonry should be erected upon the Start Point or eastern extremity of the low shores of the island of Sanday; the building to be constructed in such a manner that it might, if found necessary, be converted into a light-house.
1802.
Proofs of a severe winter in Orkney.
In the year 1802, the author sailed on his annual voyage to the Northern Light-houses so early as the 14th of April, in the Pharos of Leith, carrying with him a foreman and sixteen artificers, to commence the works of the Start Point Tower. After rather a boisterous passage, the vessel reached Orkney in six days, and, at this advanced period of the season, these Islands were found covered to the depth of six inches with snow. This, at any time, is rather uncommon in Orkney; but such had been the severity of the season in the northern regions, that a flock of wild swans which, in severe winters, visit this country, were still seen in considerable numbers upon the fresh-water lakes of Sanday. These large birds are supposed to migrate from Iceland, but are rarely seen here later than the month of March, so that their appearance in the latter end of the month of April, was considered by the Orcadians as a mark of a very severe and long-continued winter in the higher latitudes.
Quarries at Sanday and Eda.
It having been ascertained that there was no workable sandstone on the island of Sanday, where the Beacon was to be erected, permission was granted by Mr Laing, the proprietor of the contiguous island of Eda, to open a quarry at Calf Sound, where sandstone of a pretty good quality was obtained. With a view to render this building substantially water-tight, it had been originally intended to make it wholly of hewn stone, built in regular courses, technically called ashlar or aisler-work, a term derived from the aisle of a church, where this sort of masonry predominates; but the quarry of Eda being about fourteen miles distant from the work, the stones had to be brought by sea through rapid tides; and there being but indifferent creeks or havens both at the quarry and at the Start Point, it was found necessary to make only the principal stones of hewn-work, while the body of the work was executed in ruble-building, for which excellent materials were got at the Start Point, the property of the Right Honourable Lord Dundas, consisting of sandstone-slate, of a greyish-smoke colour, intermixed with shining particles of mica. The rock here is disposed in strata, from 1 to 8 inches in thickness, and could easily be raised in pieces containing from 15 to 20 square feet.
Encroachments of the Sea upon the Land.
Indeed, the encroachments of the sea had heaped up immense quantities of these schistose stones at high-water mark, all round the Start Point, the shores of which appeared like the ruins of the wall of some large city.
Of Ruble Building.
These stones, however, were more applicable for the purposes of dike-building, or interior walls, than for external work; for, after having been exposed on the beach for ages to the alternate changes of moisture and dryness, heat and cold, they were found to have many small fissures, or were split horizontally; and although the pieces still seemed to adhere closely, yet they were sufficiently open to admit moisture into the heart of the walls, which, in these stormy and exposed situations, is forced through the building: hence it is, that houses built with drift-stones of this description, are said by the cottagers of these islands to keep out moisture much better when built with puddle or clay, than with the best lime-mortar, which, under certain circumstances, is known to attract moisture, while the clay resists it. But after all the care that can be taken in building with these slaty stones, even when taken fresh from the quarry, they still have a tendency to split into lamellæ, after they are built in the walls. Experienced builders, therefore, generally lay the outward stones of such walls with a slight inclination downwards, or dip, as the workmen term it, the more readily to prevent the admission of wetness.
Houses built with Double walls.
I have been thus particular, because it is hardly possible to prevent walls built of these materials from drawing moisture, until they have been rough cast,—an operation which is so very troublesome, from requiring to be occasionally renewed, that I have found it necessary, in these exposed situations, to build the outward walls double, as the only effectual method of obtaining a comfortable house free of dampness.
Laying the foundation stone of Beacon.
The weather continued to be so extremely boisterous here, that it was the middle of the month of May before a sufficient stock of materials was laid down for commencing the building at the Start Point. A wish having been expressed by the workmen, to have the foundation-stone of the Beacon laid with masonic ceremony; and considering the dreary prospect which the artificers had before them, the author was the more willing to embrace so fair an opportunity of affording them the enjoyment of a little convivial happiness. The influx of so many strangers to the island of Sanday for this work, and the novelty of the intended ceremony, made the news soon find its way to every house. Preparations were accordingly made;—the year of our Lord 1802, was cut upon the foundation-stone, in which a hole was perforated for depositing a glass phial, containing a small parchment scroll, setting forth the intention of the building; the official constitution of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; and the name of their Engineer. It also contained several of the current coins of George III. in gold, silver, and copper. The day fixed for the ceremony was the 15th of May. The weather was dry and tolerably agreeable, though cold, with snow upon the ground; the thermometer by Fahrenheit’s scale indicating 35° in the shade at noon. A number of the principal inhabitants, and a crowd of cottagers assembled. Things being arranged for the ceremony, the author, assisted by Mr James Cleghorn, foreman for the works, applied the square and plummet-level to the foundation-stone, in compliance with the ancient custom of the craft. The phial was then deposited in the cavity prepared for it in the stone, and carefully covered up with sand, when the masonic ceremony concluded in the usual manner. The Reverend Walter Traill, minister of the parish, who obligingly attended on this occasion, now stood forward, and, after a most impressive prayer, imploring the blessing of heaven upon the intended purposes of the building, delivered an address, which, from the singularity of the subject, and the excellency of the matter, shall here be inserted.
Rev. Walter Trail’s Address.
“This moment is auspicious. The foundation-stone is laid of a building of incalculable value;—a work of use, not of luxury. Pyramids were erected by the pride of kings, to perpetuate the memory of men, whose ambition enslaved and desolated the world. But it is the benevolent intention of our Government, on this spot to erect a tower, not to exhaust, but to increase the wealth, and protect the commerce of this happy kingdom.—To the goodness of God, in the first place, we are indebted for a degree of prosperity unknown to other nations. In the next place, we owe our happiness to our insular situation, and attention to maritime affairs. Faction and civil war have, at this period, laid waste the fairest countries of Europe; while peace has flourished within our walls. Agriculture, commerce, and their kindred arts, have prospered in our land. British oak hath triumphed; victory hath been attached to the British flag; and British fleets have ridden triumphant on the wings of the wind.—Consider the great national objects for which this building will be erected. To protect commerce, and to guard the lives of those intrepid men who for us cheerfully brave the fury of the waves, and the rage of battle. The mariner, when he returns to the embraces of his wife and children, after ascribing praise to the Great Giver of safety, shall bless the friendly light which guided him over the deep, and recommend to the protection of heaven, those who urged, who planned, and who executed the work.—This day shall be remembered with gratitude. It shall be recorded, that at the beginning of a new century, the pious care of Government was extended to this remote island. Those rocks, so fatal to the most brave and honourable part of the community, shall lose their terror, and safety and life shall spring from danger and death.—Even you, my friends, who are employed in the execution of this work, are objects of regard and gratitude. You have, for a season, left the society of your families and friends, to perform a work of high interest to your country and to mankind. I am confident, that you will act, in all respects, so as to deserve and obtain the esteem of the people who now surround you. I hope that they will discharge to you every duty of Christian hospitality, and that you will have no occasion to feel that you are strangers in a strange land.—It becomes us to remember, that all the affairs of men are dependent on Providence. We may exert talents and industry, but God only can bless our exertions with success. Let our trust be in him. Let us humbly hope that he will bless this day and this undertaking. Through his aid, may there arise from this spot, a tower of safety and protection to the mariner of every tongue and nation.”
The whole of this scene was very impressive; and the plain, decent, and respectable appearance of the people collected on the occasion, was none of the least interesting parts of it.
Beacon Completed.
Having now got the works at the Start Point of Sanday fairly commenced, and some progress made in opening the quarries, the author left the Orkney Islands, and continued his voyage westward to the other Light-houses on the coast. Every thing having succeeded well at the Start Point, the Beacon was finished in the month of September. It was terminated at the height of 100 feet above the medium level of the sea, with a circular ball of masonry measuring fifteen feet in circumference.—But this tower having been afterwards converted into a light-house, it seems to be unnecessary here to enter into a more particular specification of the building.