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An Account of the Bell Rock Light-House

by Robert Stevenson

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Carr Rock

The Carr forms the seaward termination of a reef of sunken rocks which appear at low-water, extending about a mile and three quarters from the shore of Fifeness, on the northern side of the entrance of the Firth of Forth. The very dangerous position of this rock, as a turning point, in the navigation of the northern-bound shipping of the Firth, will be seen from the chart of the coast, Plate IV. It seemed necessary, therefore, for the safety of navigation, that the Carr Rock, in connection with the several light-houses of the Bell Rock, Isle of May, and Inchkeith, should be made as easily distinguishable to the mariner as possible.

Shipwrecks at the Carr Rock.

The author, while occupied with the works at the Bell Rock, having been often struck with the frequent and distressing occurrence of shipwreck at the Carr Rock, was induced to collect information as to the probable numbers of these wrecks; and he accordingly obtained, from persons who had good access to know, the following list of wrecked vessels, for a period of nine years prior to the commencement of the works at the Carr Rock.

List of Shipwrecks off Fifeness, between the Years 1800 and 1809.
Vessels’ Names.Masters’ Names.Descriptions.Port belonging to.
Unknown.Simpson.Sloop.South Ferry.
Martha.Clark.Do.Crail.
Leven.Phillip.Do.Leven.
Neptune.Finlay.Do.Dundee.
Unknown.Brown.Do.Kincardine.
Aurora.Leslie.Brig.Arbroath.
Lady Charlotte.Duncan.Sloop.Aberdeen.
Two Brothers.Carfrae.Brig.Dundee.
Expedition.Nicol.Sloop.Kincardine.
Isabella.Rintoul.Do.Perth.
Unknown.Johnston.Do.Do.
Do.Unknown.Do.John’s Haven.
New Deer.Banks.Do.Kirkaldy.
Unknown.Hamson.Galliot.Christiansand.
Countess of Elgin.Gowans.Sloop.John’s Haven.
Unknown.Small.Do.South Ferry.

Floating-buoy moored off the Carr.

By this melancholy list we find, that no fewer than sixteen vessels have, in the course of nine years, been either lost or stranded on the Carr Rocks, being almost at the rate of two wrecks in the year. From this alarming state of things, it was thought advisable to bring the subject under the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, when the Board immediately ordered a Floating-buoy, of a large size, to be moored off the Carr. The moorings for this buoy were laid down, upon the 18th of September 1809, in 10 fathoms water, at the distance of about 200 fathoms, in a north-eastern direction, from the rock. But, owing to the heavy swell of sea, and the rocky sandstone bottom on this part of the coast, it was found hardly possible to prevent the buoy from occasionally drifting, even although it had been attached to part of the great chain, made from bar-iron, measuring 1½ inch square, with which the Bell Rock floating light had been moored for upwards of four years, without injury. The moorings of the Carr Rock-buoy, from the continual rubbing upon the sandstone bottom, were worn through with the friction in the course of ten months; and during the four years which it rode here, though regularly examined and replaced, in the proper season of the year, it was no less than five times adrift, to the great inconveniency and hazard of shipping.

A Beacon of masonry is resolved on.

Under these circumstances, the Light-house Board was induced to erect a Beacon of masonry upon the Carr Rock itself, instead of the Floating-buoy. This work was commenced in the month of June, in the year 1813, under the direction of the writer. The stone for this building was taken from an excellent sandstone quarry on the property of Lord Kellie, near the mouth of Pitmilly Burn: But, owing to the smallness of the rock, the depth of water upon it, and the exposed nature of the situation, the work was afterwards attended with very great difficulty.

Dimensions of the Carr Rock.

The length of the Carr Rock, from south to north, measures 75 feet; but its greatest breadth, as seen at low-water of spring-tides, being only 23 feet, it was found to be impracticable to obtain a base for a building of greater diameter than 18 feet. Such also was the fractured and rugged state of the surface of this rock, that it became necessary to excavate part of the foundation-pit of the building to the depth of seven feet. The difficulties of this part of the work were also greatly increased, owing to the foundation, on the eastern side, being under the level of the lowest tides: so that it became necessary to construct a coffer-dam. Part of this coffer-dam it was necessary to remove, and carry ashore, after each tide’s work; and on the return of the workmen at ebb-tide, a considerable time was unavoidably occupied in fixing the moveable part of the coffer-dam, and in pumping the water out of the foundation-pit.

Difficulties of this work compared with those of the Bell Rock.

But, to enable the reader to form a comparative estimate of the difficulties attending the early stages of the Carr Rock Beacon, with those of the Bell Rock Light-house, it may be noticed, that the period which the artificers were actually at work upon the Carr Rock, as ascertained by the foreman during the first season, or the summer of 1813, was 41 hours; and in 1814, after the experience of one year’s work, these were only extended to 53 hours. Now, if we compare 1807 and 1808, the two first years’ work at the Bell Rock, we find the artificers were respectively about 180 and 265 hours upon that rock. The first two years at the Carr Rock were entirely occupied in excavating and preparing the foundation, and in laying 10 stones, or the half-course of masonry, which brings the foundation to a uniform level, for the first entire course of the building, as shewn in Plate II.; while, at the Bell Rock, in the two first seasons three courses were erected, as represented in Plate IX., of a building situate 12 miles from the shore, and measuring 42 feet in diameter at the base, besides the erection of a Beacon-house or Barrack for the workmen. The establishment for the works at the Bell Rock was of course on a much larger scale than that of the Carr Rock; but still the latter was equally effective, and the same apparatus, artificers and seamen, were employed at both.

Third year’s work at the Carr Rock.

During the third year’s work, or 1815, the second course of the masonry was completed upon the Carr, and nine stones of the third course had been got laid by the 3d of October, when a heavy ground-swell obliged the artificers precipitately to leave the rock and take to their boats. This swell was immediately accompanied by a gale of easterly wind, and before the cement had taken bond or firmness, the surge of the sea washed it out; when the oaken trenails, used as a temporary fixture during the progress of the work, were wrenched off, and the stone-joggles broken asunder. The whole of the nine blocks of stone were thus swept off the rock and lost in deep water, though they had been completely dove-tailed, and fitted on the same principles as the masonry of the Bell Rock Light-house, where not a single stone was lost during the whole progress of the work.

Fourth year’s work.

In the year 1816, or fourth season, the work was continued till the month of November, when the building had attained the height of about 20 feet, or the 16th course, and still wanting 18 courses to complete the masonry. In this state, it was left till the following season, having been previously loaded with about four tons of lead, cast in suitable pieces, and suspended within the void or central hollow of the building. The operations of the fourth season had been also much retarded by several untoward accidents. In particular, a heavy gale overtook the workmen while they were laying the 7th course, which obliged them to leave the rock before the precautionary measures could be taken, for closing and completing the work immediately in hand; in consequence of which, the stones on the eastern, or weather-side of this course, were lifted off their bases, the oaken trenails broken, and five of the blocks of stone swept away. At another period, the Pozzolano mortar of the beds of two of the stones was washed out, and so much injured, that the stones required to be lifted and relaid. The works were this season intended to have been closed early in the month of October, when another unlucky gale sprung up, just as the sixteenth course had been laid, which lifted seven of the stones off their beds; but they were fortunately held by the oaken trenails, and in this state they remained for about three weeks, before a landing could possibly be effected, to replace them.

Fifth year’s work.

In the month of June 1817, the fifth year’s work was begun, and the remaining courses of the masonry were built; but in the month of November, the coast was visited with a gale of wind at south-east, accompanied with a heavy swell of sea, which, unfortunately, washed down the upper part of the building, and reduced it to the height of the fifth course, which formed part of the fourth year’s work.

Beacon finished with cast-iron pillars and ball.

Instead, therefore, of completing this Beacon with masonry, as had been originally intended, and providing the Machine and large Bell, which was to have measured 5 feet across the mouth, to be tolled by the alternate rise and fall of the tide, it now became a matter of consideration in what form the upper part of this design should be finished. The Board ultimately determined on the erection of six columns of cast-iron upon the remaining courses of masonry. These columns are put together with spigot and facet joints, strongly connected with collars and horizontal bars of malleable iron; the whole terminating with a cast-iron ball, formed in ribs, elevated about 25 feet above the medium level of the sea. In this manner the Carr Rock Beacon was at length completed, in the month of September 1821, after six years work. The following is the notice and description of it given to the public:

Bearings and Description of the Carr Rock Beacon.

“The Carr Rock forms the seaward ledge of a range of sunken rocks, extending about two miles from Fifeness, on the eastern coast of Scotland, in North Latitude 56° 17’, and Longitude 2° 35´ west of London. By compass the Carr Rock Beacon bears SW. by W. from the Bell Rock, distant 11 miles; and from the Isle of May Light-house N.N.E. ¼ E., distant 6 miles.

“The lower part of the beacon is a circular building of masonry, 18 feet in diameter, forming a basement for six pillars of cast-iron, terminating in a hollow ball of that metal, which measures 3 feet across, and is elevated about 25 feet above the medium level of the sea.

“The erection of this beacon has been attended with much difficulty, having occupied six years in building; in the course of which the works sustained occasional damage. Mariners are therefore warned, when they run for the Carr Rock Beacon, to do so with caution, both on account of its exposure to the breach of the sea, and its liability to receive damage from vessels under sail.”

Application of the tide-machine described.

The form and construction of the Carr Rock Beacon, both as originally intended, and ultimately executed, will be better understood by referring to Plate II., and to the annexed Description of the Plates. The motion to be given to the bell-apparatus, or tide-machine, was to be effected by admitting the sea water through a small aperture, of three inches in diameter, perforated in the solid masonry, communicating with a cylindrical chamber, in the centre of the building, measuring two feet in diameter, in which a float or metallic air-tank, was to rise and fall with the tide. The train of machinery for this apparatus was calculated for a perpendicular rise of only six feet, being equal to the lowest neap-tides on this coast. During the period of flood-tide, the air-vessel, in its elevation, by the pressure of the water, was to give motion to machinery for tolling the bell, and winding up a weight; which last, in its descent, during ebb-tide, was to continue the motion of the machine, until the flood-tide again returned to perform the joint operation of tolling the bell and raising the weight. A working model of a machine upon this principle having been constructed, it was kept in motion for a period equal to several months: this was effected by water run through a succession of tanks, raised by a pump from the lower one to the higher, thus producing the effect of flood and ebb tides. The time during which this apparatus was in action, having been ascertained by an index, a constant attendance upon the machine, during this protracted experiment, became unnecessary.

General application of tide-machinery.

The upper termination of the Beacon, in its present form, does not admit of the application of the tide-machine with the bell-apparatus. Experiments as applicable to this have, however, been tried with a wind-instrument, to be sounded by the pressure of the sea water; but it has not succeeded to the extent that seems necessary for a purpose of this kind. We have indeed thought, that the application of pressure as a power, communicated by the waters of the ocean, in mechanical operations, might be carried to almost any extent, by simply providing a chamber or dock, large enough for the reception of a float or vessel, of dimensions equivalent to the force required. This description of machinery is more particularly applicable in situations where the tides have a great rise, as in the Solway Firth, Bristol Channel, and other parts of the British seas; and at St Malo, on the coast of France.

Leading Lights suggested.

A Beacon of any form, unprovided with a light, must always be considered an imperfect land-mark, and therefore various modes have been contemplated, for more completely pointing out the position of the Carr Rock. It has been proposed that phosphoric lights should be exhibited from the top of the Building. This object, however, would be more certainly accomplished, by the erection of leading lights, upon the Island of May and Mainland of Fife. But these, with other plans which have been under the writer’s consideration, would necessarily be attended with a great additional expence, which, in the present instance, it is not thought advisable to incur.

Expence of the Carr Rock works.

Owing to the necessarily slow progress of the operations at the Carr Rock, the works were carried on partly in connection with the new Light-house on the Isle of May, and with the assistance of the ordinary shipping of the Light-house establishment. This renders it difficult to give a distinct estimate of the expence of the Beacon; but in so far as it can be collected, it may be stated, including all charges, at about L. 5000.

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