Boghari to Laghouat
Boghari, situated at the place where the Oued Chelif, having come across the High Plateau, enters the Tellian Atlas on its way through them to the Mediterranean, lies on the northern edge of the High Plateau and in what appears to be a fairly arid region. The oued at this place is rather narrow and has low banks. In its bed, in October, were a few pools of water. On either side is the flood-plain of the oued, several meters in width, sometimes partly under cultivation. Tilled fields are to be seen to the west and not far from the town. From the low mountains immediately to the west of the town the steppes stretch unbroken (save by low hills) to mountains bounding the southern horizon, possibly 100 miles straight away. The mountains are the Dj. Sahari, the Saharan Atlas, beyond which lies the desert.
The vegetation in the neighborhood of Boghari is at present meager in amount and of small size. Along the banks of the Chelif are a few tamarisks, and on the plain not far from the oued are a few specimens of Zizyphus vulgaris and Pistacia lentiscus and other low-growing shrubs. Owing to the large number of sheep, goats, and camels which are driven through the pass of the Chelif, or which are kept in the neighborhood by their Boghari owners, few plants thereabouts fail to exhibit indications of being eaten. In fact, at Boghari the effects of grazing were first noticed, though afterwards repeatedly seen. Only such plants as are poisonous, distasteful, or heavily armed survive the predatory attacks of the countless numbers of domestic animals.
The habitat of Pinus halepensis, which thus extends to the very edge of the steppes, is to the east and west of the town. To the west it forms an open forest and is associated with Quercus ballota, growing on the crest and on the northern slopes of the low mountains. Its abundant fruit, together with acorns, is gathered assiduously by the Arabs for food. Juniperus oxycedrus and J. phœnicea also occur.
After leaving Boghari and the plain by the Oued Chelif, the route goes among low, rounded hills for a distance of about 24 kilometers, when it strikes boldly across the wide-extending plain. The general appearance of the vegetation, away from the intensely salty chotts, is that of low-growing shrubs on the plain, and of somewhat higher shrubs or low trees along oueds. Of the former, perhaps the most abundant are Noæa spinosissima and Haloxylon sp., and by the oueds Tamarix sp. and Zizyphus sp. Near Ain Oussera is a wide belt of Stipa tenacissima, the alfa grass, which occurs nearly to the exclusion of other species, and a second belt of alfa, several kilometers in width where crossed, was seen very soon after leaving Guelt-es-Stel. At each of these places were seen large piles of the grass baled ready for hauling to Algiers.
The alfa, or bunch-grass, covers large areas in Algeria as also in Spain. In November the long leaves of the grass are dry, tightly rolled, and rush-formed, in place of being flat as during the rainy season or period of growth. The species reproduces largely by means of much-branched rhizomes, from which spring the young, fleshy leaves, enlarged at the base. In Algeria, “situées en territoire civil,” there are 543,620 acres of alfa, mostly on the High Plateau, but a part along the littoral in the province of Oran, west of Algiers. The leading environmental influence upon the peculiar distribution of the species is apparently that of rainfall, reacting in this respect very like plants with storage organs, avoiding alike regions where the rainfall is excessively heavy or where it is so little as to cause marked desertic conditions. It is apparently confined to sandy soils and is replaced by others wherever the soil of a region (otherwise appropriate for its growth) is of clay or is charged with any considerable amounts of salts. It is an important article of export from Algeria. Its total tonnage is said to amount to 80,000 each year, bringing approximately $1,500,000. It is sent to England, Belgium, and France, and used in the manufacture of fine grades of paper, light, strong, and of a silky texture; also in making baskets, hats, and mats, for which a superior grade of the grass, commanding especially high prices, is employed (Kearney and Means, loc. cit.).
Among other species commonly seen in crossing the steppes are various salt-bushes, such as Haloxylon articulatum and Anabasis articulata and especially Artemisia herba-alba, with Tamarix and a few specimens of Pistacia along the oueds or where water conditions are most favorable. Between the belt of alfa last mentioned and El Masserane, a bordj, there is a broad plain surrounded by low mountains, which are really the northern extension of the broad Saharan Atlas, where salt-bushes occur in a formation several kilometers, possibly 24, across. Here in the summer the nomads, coming up out of the desert, find grazing for their flocks, and even in October we saw countless numbers of sheep and goats, and hundreds of camels, browsing the shrubs.
At El Masserane are specimens of large Tamarix, really the size of small trees, growing near the bordj; and to the south of the bordj we passed the first dunes encountered on the plateau. These are part of a series of dunes which were seen to extend to the horizon to the northeast, as we approached El Masserane, and which, we were informed, reached as far as Bou Saada, nearly 90 kilometers distant. The dune flora was quite different from that of the surrounding plain, owing to the total absence of salt plants, and to the presence, among other species, of a Tamarix and a large grass, the “drinn” (Aristida pungens), which was subsequently frequently seen.
Soon after passing the dunes the way lay through a country with low mountains, almost bare of vegetation, where scattering oaks and junipers constitute the only species of plants, until we reached the walled town of Djelfa.