Ghardaia to Touggourt
From Ghardaia the route, consisting of camel trails only, pursued a course south of east to Ouargla, and from Ouargla a direction east of north to Touggourt, over 400 kilometers, Ouargla being about half-way. There are no villages between Ghardaia and Ouargla and none between this place and a point 20 kilometers south of Touggourt, so that in accounts of the vegetation or the topography, lacking convenient points around which to center descriptions, the device will be adopted of using distance estimations to or from the three chief towns.
The trail followed the valley of the Oued M’Zab, or kept close to it, for 63 to 73 kilometers before finally leaving it. It passed the sister towns of Ghardaia and crossed short intervals of plain, descending occasionally to the oued. The walls of the M’Zab Valley, 60 meters more or less at Ghardaia, become lower and less precipitous as one goes down the drainage, until at length they become little more than rounded banks. The low, flat-topped mountains, which are a feature of the topography about Ghardaia, were soon left behind, and nothing similar was encountered until the vicinity of Ouargla was reached. Between Ghardaia and El Ateuf are small dunes in the valley and sand is drifted along the base of the walls at various places. Near and immediately east of this town the sand is especially abundant and, being shifted by the winds, constitutes an ever-present menace to the small gardens belonging to the inhabitants of the place; in order to control its drifting, fences of palm leaves are made or the sand is removed when it becomes too abundant. Often the gardens are abandoned, leaving the palm fences to mark their sites after the sand has gone beyond. Where the air-currents are most powerful or most consistent, or the walls are broken down, the sand may be carried in small quantities onto the plain, where it constitutes a mulch, influencing in a striking manner the character of the vegetation (fig. 42).
Finally leaving the valley of the M’Zab about 73 kilometers from Ghardaia, the trails wound upwards through low rounded hills to the hamada. This is the northern edge of the region of the Gantara, 100 by 150 kilometers or more in extent, reaching from the valley of the M’Zab on the north to the region of the dunes to the south. It slopes towards the Oued Igharghar, or the drainage depression connected with this great oued. The Gantara has a few chotts and is crossed by three oueds in the southern portion. It is probably the most arid part of southern Algeria. About 60 kilometers of the plain were crossed and here it was gently rolling and stretched without a break to the horizon. The surface resembles that of the hamada at Ghardaia, that is, stones of various sizes, usually small, lie on its surface, but never forming a continuous cover, as in some portions of the Arizona desert. The soil is brown, of fine grain, and with little or no addition of sand. In the innumerable little hollows the soil is deeper than on the slight rounded ridges. Wind is apparently the most potent erosive agent.
Two chotts were encountered between Ghardaia and Ouargla, one unimportant, the other large and with many features of interest. The latter, the Chott Mellala, is about 10 by 15 kilometers in size. The trail descends from the plain, winding through a zone of rounded, cone-shaped hills or mamelons, to the floor of the chott, which lies about 60 meters lower than the general level of the plain. The chott was quite dry in November when we visited it, but at rare intervals water is said to flood the central portion. Toward the outer edges the floor is thrown into waves, where the heavy incrustation of salts is broken. In the center the salt crust forms an unbroken and level surface. Gypsum (calcium sulphate) is the predominant salt. On the eastern side a long and high ridge of sand rears its uneven summits. The height of this ridge was estimated to be 250 meters, and was said by Massart to be the largest seen by him in the Sahara. This dune we had seen lying on the eastern horizon for one or two days before reaching the chott.
The relation of the Chott Mellala to the country to the north or the south was not seen, but between it and Ouargla there lies a succession of smaller and more irregular chotts, which together form a fairly well-connected chain. These chotts are separated by low passes and flat-topped hills whose summits are on a level with the neighboring plain. Many of the hills are cone-shaped and in other topographic features the region shows the eroding action of wind. About 7 kilometers from Ouargla an opening in the mamelons gives a view of a plain extending on a lower level to the horizon. This is the reg, or fluvial desert. The Ouargla plain, or reg, is connected with the drainage of the great Oued Ighaghar and has a character which in many ways is different from the Gantara, over which we had just passed.
With the descent to the reg desert a more monotonous region is encountered. In the vicinity of Ouargla and for some kilometers to the north the topography is quite flat and gives the impression of a flood-plain. To the east it stretches unbroken to the horizon, but to the west it is bounded by a fairly abrupt wall, the Gantara escarpment. At intervals of several kilometers low sand ridges cross the route over the plain, and on the second day somewhat higher ground was traversed and a sand ridge about 4 kilometers across was encountered. The country then becomes somewhat more broken and presents the appearance of being the remains of an ancient and more elevated plain. About 56 kilometers from Ouargla are the largest dunes crossed; where traversed, these were 10 kilometers from north to south and extended beyond our vision both to the east and the west. This is apparently the edge of extensive dune regions which lie mainly east of Touggourt and of the Oued Rirh. For possibly the last 30 kilometers of the journey to Touggourt there are dunes and chotts in alternation.
A word should be said regarding the hydrography of the region whose surface features have been sketched above. Between the cities of Beni M’Zab and Ouargla two wells were passed, although a route could have been taken which could have included three wells. The wells are 125 meters or less in depth and are maintained by the government for the benefit of the caravans, as well as to provide water for the large number of goats and sheep pastured in the neighborhood. The situations of the wells are always in depressions, either along the Oued M’Zab or in similar although smaller drainage areas, and none are on the Gantara. At Ouargla and on the reg desert to the north of the town the water lies very close to the surface of the ground. It can be dipped with buckets and the roots of the palms reach to the water-table. The water from the shallow wells is strongly impregnated with salts. Before reaching Touggourt standing water was seen where the trail crossed certain chotts. Numerous artesian wells have been made by the government which penetrate the ground several hundred meters and give a large and continuous supply of sweet water.
Ghardaia to Ouargla — Vegetation
The plants seen during the first day’s march from Ghardaia were such as have already been observed to be characteristic of the valley of the Oued M’Zab or of the neighboring hamada. The vegetation of the hamada, usually very sparse, was noticeably more abundant wherever the sand had been drifted over it from the dunes of the valley, even if the thickness of the sand was so slight as to be little more than a mulch. Here low grasses, much eaten, were the prevailing forms. On the dunes in the valley of the M’Zab, 20 kilometers from Ghardaia, the number of species and individuals is relatively large, the most abundant species being drinn (Aristida pungens), although Deverra scoparia is also fairly numerous. Somewhat farther on the route, and in a sandy flat, besides these two species, there is much Ephedra alata. On the slopes leading from this flat and on the plain above, there is an almost pure stand of Rhantherium adpressum.
Crossing relatively small portions of the plain, in place of always following the bends of the Oued M’Zab, about noon of the second day we reached the bordj Zolfana, in the valley of the Oued amidst low and narrow dunes, which are moving slowly across the flats. (Fig. 44.) No vegetation appears on the dunes, but on the fixed sand between them, or on the stationary dunes at the border of the flats, some plants are to be found. Among these the most abundant, but really not numerous, are Euphorbia guyoniana and retam (Retama retam), which was often seen later along the line of march as well as in the vicinity of Biskra. Retam superficially resembles Ephedra alata in having rudimentary leaves and green, reed-like branches; it is carefully avoided by animals, although Genista saharæ, a very similar plant, which grows in like situations between Ghardaia and Ouargla, is said by Massart (loc. cit.) to be eaten greedily by them. (Fig. 43.)
A short distance beyond the bordj the bottoms suddenly widened, the dunes disappeared, and for the remainder of the day’s march we passed through the richest vegetation we had seen since reaching the M’Zab region. (Figs. 45, 46, and 47.) Here the shrubs were of fair size and of sufficient abundance to give character to the landscape. About the 63 kilometers camp the leading species are Retama retam, Ephedra alata, and Haloxylon schmidtianum. On the hamada adjoining the flat are several species, including Aristida ciliata, Artemisia herba-alba, Farsetia ægyptiaca, Farsetia linearis, Gymnocarpon fruticosum, Helianthemum eremophilum, Henophyton deserti, Marrubium deserti, Salsola vermiculata, Teucrium polium, Thymelæa microphylla, and Zollikoferia mucronata. On the hamada just adjoining the place of our camp, however, there appeared to be Haloxylon schmidtianum, to the exclusion of other species.
After crossing the bottoms of the oued the trail climbed up to the hamada and we did not see the M’Zab Valley afterward. The vegetation of the hamada soon becomes very sparse and as far as the eye can reach the appearance is that of entire bareness. But, as was found to be the case near Ghardaia, close examination revealed the presence of many living perennials as well as the remains of the previous annual flora. This plain, the Gantara, of wide extent, is the most arid region seen in southern Algeria. Massart estimates that there is an average precipitation of 15 cm. on the desert, but, from data previously cited, it would appear that this amount is rarely attained; indeed, several months, or even two or more years, may pass without any rainfall whatever. When one searches the hollows he finds a few small perennials; plants are almost wholly absent on the low ridges. But in some areas on the plain, where superficial examination does not show any plants, a surprising number were found. For example, on the level hamada, 96 kilometers from Ghardaia, on an area 16 meters square, 389 living plants were found, but only 24 were so large as to be seen from a distance; all were either eaten badly or trampled to the ground, so that it could not be learned what the flora of the area might have been had no animals interfered with its full development.
After leaving the 96 kilometer station the perennials were seen to diminish rapidly in numbers and to decrease in size, until the ridges of the low undulations were absolutely without plants, and there were but few in the hollows. There was no apparent change in the character of the hamada or in that of the soil. This sterile condition persisted for 26 kilometers, when vegetation similar in character to that previously seen was again encountered. The zone of better vegetation lasted for 3 kilometers, when the country became barren once more, which condition lasted for 10 kilometers. The presence of barren belts on the Gantara, where the plants at the best are insignificant in size as well as number and without change in topography or soil, points to an especially arid belt. This conclusion is further strengthened by the observation that the plants found were relatively of very small size.28
The flora was also sparse upon the route followed by Massart across the Gantara, which was apparently somewhat farther to the north than the one now being described. He mentions having found Argyrolobium uniflorum, Asteriscus graveolens, Fagonia microphylla, Deverra chlorantha, Fagonia glutinosa, Halogeton alopecuroides, Helianthemum sp., and Herniaria fruticosa. He says that Deverra is one of the rare glabrous forms on the hamada. It is said to have the odor of parsley, and the Arabs have a belief that camels which eat it become blind, but Massart’s camels were not injured by eating the plant.
As we drew near the Chott Mellala, on the eastern edge of the barren zone mentioned in the preceding paragraph, we suddenly encountered a belt of Ephedra alenda, stretching to the north and to the south as far as could be seen (fig. 49). On one side was the barren zone, on the other the immense plantation. Upon examination it was found that the Ephedra was the only species of perennial. It had several points of interest, but the short time at our disposal precluded more than a superficial examination. Usually keen about the desert species, it is curious to note that the Arabs appear not to recognize this, called by them “alenda,” as being related to the larger species of Ephedra with which they are well acquainted. It is a small species, growing from 30 to 40 cm. high. It does not occur singly, but has the habit of growing in groups of a half dozen or more. Between the Ephedra colonies were only the dried remains of the annual flora of the last rainy season. An examination of the root-system of the species showed that, like other species of the genus, it has a well-developed tap-root (fig. 50).
Alenda, however, has a root-habit which, although not peculiar to it, is at least very striking and of great importance to its survival. From the root-crown a stolon arises which extends away from the parent for a distance of about a meter. From this stolon there arise shoots which develop into daughter plants. Through this method of reproduction the small colonies of the species are formed and possibly the species mainly multiplied. From the stolons small roots arise, giving aid to the mother root in providing the offspring with moisture. This habit is very like that of Kœberlinia spinosa of the Arizona desert, which has a similar type of root-system and which reproduces vegetatively in a similar manner. Alenda continued to be the dominant species until near the edge of the big chott (Mellala), a few kilometers east of where it was first seen.
Practically no plants were seen when descending through the eroded portions of the hamada to the floor of the chott (fig. 52), but on reaching the bottom of the great chott a surprisingly large number was observed, including Anabasis articulata, Aristida pungens, Ephedra alata, Limoniastrum guyonianum, Retama retam, and Traganum nudatum (fig. 51). In the wide central part of the chott, where the salts are perhaps most dense, there are no plants; but on the eastern side are Euphorbia guyoniana, Anabasis articulata, and Zygophyllum sp. These small species were growing far apart and were badly injured, either by being trodden under foot or by being eaten by the passing animals. To the south of where we crossed the chott and also to the north the sand mountains arise. After leaving Chott Mellala we ascended gradually to go over a low pass separating it from a small chott to the east. Here we obtained a backward view of the sand mountains, low as seen from the pass, with sharp, wind-made ridges, and bearing a few specimens of Aristida pungens. Descending somewhat, another but smaller chott was crossed. Between the latter chott and the Ouargla plain the plants were very few and confined to the slopes and the higher ground, avoiding almost wholly the depressions. Of those recognized, Traganum nudatum was the most abundant. This is the “vamran” of the Arabs and is an inconspicuous shrub frequently seen later on the way to Touggourt.