Some Characteristics of the Vegetation of the Tell
Because of the similarity in the flora of Algeria and southern Europe, a very good introduction to Algeria is by the way of southern Spain, France, or Italy. As one approaches southern France, for instance, he begins to see evidences of increasing aridity. Upon passing Lyons grassy fields and heavy forests are left behind, the hills become bare or covered with a chaparral-like growth, and the practice of irrigation is observed on the plains. The vegetation, especially of the region between Avignon and Nimes, recalls that of portions of California, and one sees the mulberry, the olive, and the pomegranate in abundance, and occasionally the orange. Very much the same conditions greet one when he arrives in Algiers, except that along the littoral, at and in the vicinity of Algiers, there is a wealth of native and especially of introduced plants, which give little hint of the arid regions close at hand. The hills which make a part of the beautiful city of Algiers contain fine plantations of foreign trees, such as eucalyptus, conifers of various species, acacias, figs, and a variety of fruit trees like the apricot, peach, plum, apple, almond, orange, and others. In the fine public squares one sees large palms also, and in the botanical garden are bamboos, palms, bananas, India-rubber trees, and a large number of forms from the subtropics. The great variety of introduced plants which appear to thrive on the littoral again recalls portions of California, where the kinds and numbers of introduced plants which grow well are likewise large, and where the floral strangers are gathered from the antipodes. But among the species there are also many natives to the colony and which one will see when he begins to travel away from the coast; for example, the cedar from the higher mountains (Cedrus atlantica) and the fine pine (Pinus halepensis) from lower altitudes; there are junipers and oaks, among the latter the cork oak (Quercus suber), and fine specimens of Pistacia atlantica and its protector the jujube (Zizyphus lotus), the relationship of which will be given later in this paper. Both of the last-named species are native to the Sahara and are of rather frequent occurrence in the regions visited.
Upon leaving Algiers one soon encounters a striking change in the character of the vegetation, evidences of a rather small rainfall and a low humidity, and one appreciates the fact that even near the coast the climate of the colony is fairly arid. A fine general view of the region about Algiers, giving at a glance its setting and these features, is to be had from the heights behind the city. In the words of Tristram (The Great Sahara):
Here we turned to observe the magnificent panorama of the city and the harbour below, with the bay stretching far beyond, the slopes of Mustapha on the right studded with villas, the Sahel range terminating beyond the massive tower of the seminary of Kouba, the conspicuous Maison Carée... planted where the plain of the Metidjeh opens to the sea, the range of the lesser Atlas in the distance beyond, and the peaks of the Djudjura, the last stronghold of the Kabyles, behind them, capped with snow.
Crossing the plain of the Mitidja (Metidjeh), the route runs through a country devoted largely to the raising of wine grapes, with bare hillsides, or hills covered with low shrubs and small trees, and, following a custom derived from France, with either side of the highway lined with trees, mulberry and ash. At the base of the Atlas we see large orange-groves and numerous fig trees. The lower slopes of the mountains are covered with a chaparral-like growth, and as one penetrates the mountains, ascending gradually alongside the Oued Chiffa, he sees, among other forms, extensive areas of dwarf palm, doum (Chamærops humilis), which resembles remotely the familiar saw-palmetto of the southern portion of the United States. The leaves of the doum are gathered by the Arabs for making into baskets, rope and other useful articles, and several donkeys laden with doum bales were observed being vigorously driven marketward by their small bournoused masters. On the sides of the gorge one sees species of delicate ferns, bunch-grass in tumbling masses (very luxuriant where there is moisture), chestnut, arbutus, and masses of evergreen ivy overhanging the way in places. At one place, fairly high in the mountains, a colony of native monkeys has found a safe retreat and may be frequently seen gamboling among the rocks and the shrubs near the stream. They were seen and described by Tristram about 50 years ago, who states that they “are of the same species as those of the rock of Gibraltar.” Here are a few oaks, myrtles, some “dherou” (Pistacia sp.), and a few and scattering specimens of Pinus halepensis. The upper portion of the mountain, at least of the part seen, is nearly treeless, and is under some cultivation. After leaving the pass a drive of a few minutes brought us to the old Roman town of Medea, which appears from the character of the vegetation, both native and introduced, to have a cooler as well as drier climate than Algiers. Conspicuous among the ornamentals are the Judas tree and the plane, both planted much about the town; among the fruits the apple is cultivated extensively.
From Medea to Berrouaghia the mountain range is broken up into large rounded hills, in part cultivated, but almost wholly open, scantily covered with shrubs or trees and mainly grazed over by large flocks of sheep and goats. About midway between the two places we pass through an open forest of oaks, from whose boles the bark has been removed. A chance acquaintance told us that the cork was removed about once in four years, but this is probably not the true cork oak (Quercus suber), which grows under more moist conditions, as between Tunis and Constantine, or between the latter place and Algiers, along the littoral. The altitude of this region is somewhat under 4,000 feet.
From Berrouaghia to Boghari, which is on the northern edge of the High Plateau, the route runs through an open grazing country, with scattering oaks (Quercus ballota), juniper (Juniperus oxycedrus), and “dherou” (Pistacia lentiscus), and, among other herbaceous plants, not a little bunch-grass, whose species I did not learn. On the northern slopes of Mount Gorno, 3,500 feet, is an open forest of oak of the species named, the formation recalling the chaparral of California. Upon reaching the crest of the mountain one is suddenly brought to a forest of pine (Pinus halepensis) which covers the entire southern slope to the exclusion of other species of trees. Spreading over the slope on the upper levels, it avoids the gulches near the base and reaches out on the crests of the ridges for a considerable distance. The width of forest where crossed is about 50 kilometers. In its habitat, which comprises the lower Atlas Mountains, Pinus halepensis forms a rather small tree, shapely, with rounded summit. When growing somewhat apart from its fellows it is of a more squat appearance than when in the forest, although the forest of the species is by no means a dense one.