Chapter XXI Ices
Ices, with their accompanying “petits fours,” bring the dinner to a close—at least as far as Cookery is concerned; and, when they are well prepared and daintily dished, they are the consummation of all that is delicate and good. In no other department of the work has the culinary artist so freely indulged his fancy, or created such delectable kickshaws; and, though Italy be the cradle of the ice-worker’s art, though the Neapolitans have deservedly maintained their reputation as authorities in this matter, to French workmen, certainly, is due the credit of those innovations which have perfected this important branch of dietetic science.
2744 — The Making of Ices
Whatever be the kind of ices required, they should always be prepared in advance; for none of these preparations can be made ready at a moment’s notice.
There are two distinct operations in the confection of ices:—
(1) The making of the preparation.
(2) The freezing and the moulding of the preparation. I shall begin by dealing with the second operation, which remains the same for all ices, and is the essential part of the procedure.
To freeze an ice preparation is to surround it with broken ice, mixed with sodium chloride (sea-salt or freezing salt) and saltpetre. The action of these two salts upon the ice causes a considerable drop in the temperature, which speedily congeals any contiguous liquid. Subject to their nature, ices are either moulded and frozen directly in their moulds, like the light ices: iced Biscuits, iced Soufflés, Puddings, Mousses, Parfaits, Bombes, etc.; or first frozen in a special utensil called a freezer, and then moulded and frozen afresh. Cream and syrup ices are prepared by the second method; and this I shall now describe.
The freezers, in which the freezing takes place, are generally wielded by hand, either directly or by means of some mechanism. They should be of pure tin, and fitted, at their base on to a central pivot which turns in a socket, fixed in the wooden case which holds the freezer.
Having hermetically closed the latter, surround it with broken ice containing three lbs. of salt and eight oz. of saltpetre per twenty-five lbs.
The freezer should be one-third of its height out of the ice, in order that no particle of salted ice may accidentally fall into the preparation while it is being frozen. The ice should be snugly massed, by means of a special pestle, round the freezer. This operation constitutes the packing, and should be effected at least ten minutes in advance if possible.
Having thus prepared the freezer, pour into it the preparation to be frozen and then either keep it in motion by rocking the utensil to and fro, by grasping the handle on the cover (if the apparatus is worked by hand), or by turning the handle if the utensil is on a central axle, fitted with the usual mechanism. In either case, the rotary movement of the utensil causes the preparation to splash continually against the sides of the freezer, where it rapidly congeals, and the congealed portions are removed by means of a special spatula, as quickly as they form, until the whole becomes a smooth and homogeneous mass. The delicacy and creaminess of the ice depend a great deal upon the care with which this freezing operation is effected; hence the preference which is now given to freezers fitted with a mechanism whereby two fans revolve inside in a direction opposite to that of the body of the machine, and thus not only detach the congealed portions of the preparation under treatment from the sides of the receptacle, but also work it with a regularity impossible to human motion.
2745 — The Moulding of Ices
Having thus frozen the preparation, it may now be set in rock-form on a napkin, as it used sometimes to be served in the past, or in glasses. But as a rule it is put into special moulds, having closely-fitting covers. These moulds should be carefully filled, and banged on a folded napkin, that the ice may settle and drive out any air which might be the cause of holes being found in the preparation. When it is filled, place the mould in a receptacle of a suitable size, and surround it with broken ice, prepared as for the packing. The mould should remain at least an hour in the ice, in the case of an ordinary ice, and an extra two hours if the ice be light and not previously frozen as are the Bombes.
When about to serve, take the mould out of the ice; wash it to rid it of the taint of salt; dip it in tepid water for an instant, that the surface of the preparation inside may melt and separate easily from the mould. Overturn the mould; and turn out the ice upon a folded napkin lying on a dish.
2746 — Preparations for Simple Ices
Preparations for simple ices are of two kinds: those made from cream, and those made from syrup; the latter being principally used for fruit ices.
As the quantities of sugar and eggs used for these preparations vary exceedingly, the following recipes have been based upon a working average.
If creamier ices be required, all that is needed is an increase in the sugar and egg-yolks per quart of milk; while, if the ices be required harder but less creamy, the two ingredients above mentioned should be proportionately reduced.
As an example of the difference that may exist between cream preparations, I might instance the case of ice-cream, which may be made from seven to sixteen egg-yolks, and six oz. to one lb. of sugar per quart of milk. In regard to ices made from syrups and fruit, their preparations may measure from 15° to 30° or 32°. (saccharometer) respectively.
2747 — Ice-Cream Preparation (Generic Recipe)
Work two-thirds lb. of sugar and ten egg-yolks in a saucepan until the mixture reaches the ribbon-stage. Dilute it, little by little, with one quart of boiling milk, and stir over a moderate fire until the preparation veneers the withdrawn spoon. Avoid boiling, as it might decompose the custard.
Strain the whole into a basin and stir it from time to time until it is quite cold.
N.B.—For the various ice-cream preparations, the amount of sugar and number of egg-yolks, as also the procedure, do not change. They are only distinguishable by the particular flavour or infusion which may happen to characterise them.
Various Ice-Cream Preparations
2748 — Almond Ice-Cream
Finely pound three and a half oz. of freshly-skinned sweet almonds and five bitter almonds; adding to them, little by little, in order to facilitate the pounding, a few tablespoonfuls of water.
Set this almond paste to infuse, twenty minutes beforehand, in the boiling milk, and prepare the cream as directed above, with the same quantities of sugar and egg-yolks.
2749 — Asparagus Ice-Cream
Parboil six oz. of asparagus-tops or sprew for two minutes. Thoroughly drain them; quickly pound them, together with a few tablespoonfuls of milk, and set this asparagus paste to infuse in the boiled milk.
2750 — Filbert Ice-Cream
Slightly torrify three and half oz. of filberts; finely pound them, together with a few tablespoonfuls of milk, and set the resulting paste to infuse for twenty minutes in the boiled milk.
2751 — Coffee Ice-Cream
Add two oz. of freshly-grilled and crushed coffee seeds to the boiled milk, and let them infuse for twenty minutes.
Or, with an equivalent amount of ground coffee and half a pint of water, prepare a very strong infusion and add it to one and a half pints of boiled milk.
2752 — Chocolate Ice-Cream
Dissolve eight oz. of grated chocolate in half pint of water, and add thereto one quart of boiled milk, in which a large stick of vanilla has previously been infused. For this preparation, eight oz. of sugar and seven egg-yolks will be found sufficient, if the chocolate used be sweet.
2753 — Walnut Ice-Cream
Finely pound three and a half oz. of well-peeled walnuts with a few tablespoonfuls of water, and set them to infuse for twenty minutes in boiling milk.
2754 — Pistachio Ice-Cream
Pound two oz. of sweet almonds, and two and a half oz. of freshly-peeled pistachios; moistening them with a few drops of milk. Set the paste to infuse for twenty minutes in the boiled milk.
2755 — Pralined Ice-Cream
Pound and rub through a sieve four oz. of almond pralin, and add thereto one quart of previously-prepared vanilla-flavoured custard.
2756 — Tea Ice-Cream
Add one pint of very strong tea to one and a half pints of boiled milk, and make the preparation in the usual way.
2757 — Vanilla Ice-Cream
When the milk has boiled, infuse in it one large stick of vanilla for twenty minutes.
N.B.—If these various preparations be required more creamy, the milk may be wholly or partly replaced by fresh cream. Also when the preparation is congealed, it may be combined with one-sixth pint of whipped cream per quart.
2758 — Preparations for Fruit Ices
The base of these preparations is a syrup of sugar at 32° (saccharom.), to which a purée of fruit, an essence, or a liqueur is added, which will give the ice its character. All these preparations require lemon juice, the quantity of which varies according to the acidity of the fruit used, but which, even in the case of the tartest fruits, should not measure less than the amount that may be extracted from a whole lemon per quart of the preparation.
Orange juice may also be used, more especially for red-fruit ices; while the juices of the orange and the lemons combined throw the flavour of the fruit under treatment into remarkable relief.
In the season the juices are extracted from fresh fruit, pressed and rubbed through tammy. When the season is over the preserved juice of fruit is used.
All red-fruit ices are improved, once they are set, by an addition of half pint of raw, fresh cream per quart of the preparation.
2759 — The Making of Fruit Ice Preparations
These preparations are made in two ways as follows:—
(1) Rub the fruit through a fine sieve, after having pounded it if its nature admit of it. Dilute the purée with an equal quantity of cold sugar syrup at 32° (saccharom.), and add lemon juice in a quantity subject to the acidity of the treated fruit.
This mixture of ingredients should always be cold, and should be tested with saccharom (pèse-sirops). If the instrument marks more than the proper degree, dilute the preparation with a little water; if it mark less, add syrup until the required degree is reached.
(2) Pound the fruit with an average quantity of ten oz. of sugar per lb.; but remember that this proportion may be modified either way, subject to the sweetness of the fruit used.
Rub the whole through a sieve; and then, to obtain the proper degree of strength, add the necessary quantity of filtered water.
2760 — Liqueur-Ice Preparations
These preparations are made by adding to the syrup or the cream which forms the base of the ice a given quantity of the selected liqueur, the latter being generally added when the preparation is cold.
The proportion of one-fifth pint of liqueur per quart of syrup may be taken as an average. Subject to the requirements this liqueur flavour may be intensified with strong tea for rum ices; with orange-rind for Curaçao-flavoured ices, with fresh, crushed cherry-stones for Kirsch ices, etc.
These preparations should always contain some lemon-juice, and their strength should reach the average degree indicated for fruit ices.
Various Fruit-Ice Preparations
2761 — Apricot Ice
Take one pint of fresh apricot purée, one pint of syrup, and the juice of two lemons. The strength of the preparation should measure 18° or 19° (saccharometer).
2762 — Pine-Apple Ice
Set to macerate for two hours one pint of grated or pounded skinned pine-apple in one pint of syrup. Rub the whole through a sieve, add the juice of one lemon and a few drops of Kirsch, and test the preparation, which should measure from 18° to 20°.
2763 — Banana Ice
Set one pint of pounded banana pulp to macerate for two hours in one pint of Maraschino-flavoured syrup. Add the juice of three lemons, and rub through a sieve. This preparation should measure from 20° to 21°.
2764 — Cherry Ice
Crush one pint of stoned cherries, and pound their stones. Set the whole to macerate for one hour in one pint of syrup, flavoured with Kirsch. Rub through a sieve and add the juice of a half-lemon. The preparation should measure 21°.
2765 — Lemon Ice
Set the zests of three lemon peels to infuse for three hours in one pint of cold syrup. Add the juice of four lemons and of two oranges, and strain the whole. The preparation should measure 22°.
2766 — Strawberry Ice
Mix one pint of strawberry purée with one pint of syrup, and add thereto the juice of two oranges and of two lemons. Or pound two lbs. of strawberries with one lb. of powdered sugar; add the juice of oranges and lemons as above; rub the whole through a sieve, and add the necessary amount of filtered water to bring the preparation to 16°or 18°.
2767 — Raspberry Ice
Proceed as for No. 2766, and use the same quantities.
2768 — Red-Currant Ice
Mix one pint of red-currant juice with one pint of syrup. In view of the natural acidity of the fruit, lemon-juice may be dispensed with. The preparation should measure 20°.
2769 — Tangerine Ice
Throw the zests of the rinds of four tangerines into one and one-half pints of boiling syrup. Let the whole cool; rub it through a sieve, and finish it with the juice of six tangerines, two oranges and one lemon. The preparation should measure 21°.
2770 — Melon Ice
Mix one pint of very ripe melon pulp with one pint of syrup, the juice of two oranges and one lemon, and one tablespoonful of orange-flower water. Rub the whole through a sieve. The mixture should measure 22°.
2771 — Orange Ice
Throw the zests of the rinds of four oranges into one quart of boiling syrup. Let the whole cool; add the juice of four oranges and one lemon, and rub it through a sieve. It should measure 21°.
2772 — Peach Ice
Proceed as for No. 2761, using wall peaches if possible.
2773 — Pear Ice
Peel, core, and pound some fine William pears, with one lb. of powdered sugar per two-thirds lb. of the fruit; and add thereto the juice of two lemons per lb. of pears. Rub the whole through a sieve, and add enough filtered water to bring it to 22°.
2774 — Plum Ice
Proceed as for No. 2761, bringing the preparation to 20°.
2775 — Grape Ice
Add to one and one-half pints of the juice of sweet, pressed grapes the juice of three lemons and the necessary quantity of powdered sugar to bring the preparation to 20°. Rub the whole through a sieve.
2776 — Violet Ice
Put half a lb. of cleaned violet petals into one and one-half pints of boiling syrup. Let them infuse for ten minutes; strain the whole through a sieve; let it cool, and finish it with the juice of three lemons. The preparation should measure from 20° to 21°.
Various Ices
2777 — Glace Alhambra
Take a Madeleine-mould; clothe its bottom and sides with vanilla ice-cream and fill it with Chantilly cream, combined with fresh strawberries, macerated for two hours in Kümmel, which should afterwards be added to the Chantilly cream.
2778 — Glace Carmen
Take a fluted mould. Garnish it with vertical and alternate layers of raspberry ice, coffee ice, and vanilla ice-cream.
2779 — Glace Comtesse Marie
Take a special square mould, even or ornamented on the top. Clothe it with strawberry ice; fill it with vanilla ice-cream; and, after turning it out, decorate it, by means of a piping-bag (fitted with a grooved pipe), with vanilla ice-cream.
2780 — Glace Coucher de Soleil
Select one pound of fine very ripe strawberries, and put them in a silver timbale. Sprinkle them with ten ounces of powdered sugar and one liqueur-glass full of Grand-Marnier liqueur; cover the timbale and keep it on ice for half an hour.
Then rub the strawberries through a sieve; and, with their purée, make a preparation after the directions given under Fruit Ices. Freeze this preparation in the freezer, and, when it is set, combine with it one pint of Chantilly cream. Now cover the freezer; surround it afresh with ice if necessary, and keep it thus for thirty-five to forty minutes. This done, dish the ice preparation with care in pyramid form in crystal bowls.
N.B.—This ice gets its name from its colour, which should be that of the western sky during a fine sunset.
2781 — Glace Dame-Jeanne
Take a Madeleine-mould; clothe it with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with Chantilly cream, combined with pralined orange flowers.
2782 — Glace Dora
Take a Madeleine-mould; clothe it with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with Kirsch-flavoured Chantilly cream combined with pine-apple dice and Bar red-currant jam.
2783 — Glace Étoile du Berger
Take a star-shaped mould, or a Madeleine-mould with a star on its bottom. Clothe it with raspberry ice, and fill it with Bénédictine flavoured Mousse.
2784 — Glace Fleurette
Take a square mould. Garnish it with strawberry and pine-apple ice, laid in very regular, superposed layers. After turning it out decorate with lemon ice.
2785 — Glace Francillon
Take a square mould; clothe it with coffee ice, and fill it with liqueur-brandy ice.
2786 — Fromage Glacé
These ices are made in fluted moulds, and generally with two differently flavoured and coloured ices, set vertically in the mould.
2787 — Glace des Gourmets
Take a “bombe” mould. Clothe it with pralined, vanilla-ice cream. Fill it with alternate layers of chestnut ice flavoured with rum, and vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream. When the ice is turned out, roll it in pralined splintered almonds.
2788 — Moulded Ices
These ices are made in large or small moulds.
The large ices are moulded in tin moulds, fitted with hinged covers, and ornamented with some design. The small ones, which are generally served at evening parties, or are used to garnish larger ices, are made in similar moulds, shaped like flowers, fruit, birds, leaf-sprays, etc.
Any ice preparation may be used for these ices; but, as a rule, the preparation should have something in keeping with the design of the mould used.
Small moulded ices may be kept packed until they are served. They may also be turned out in advance and kept in the refrigerator.
2789 — Glace des Iles
Take a Madeleine-mould; clothe it with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with pine-apple ice.
2790 — Madeleine Glacée
Take a Madeleine-mould. Fill it with vanilla ice-cream, combined with half its bulk of Chantilly cream and candied fruit macerated in Kirsch.
2791 — Mandarines Glacées
Cut the tangerines on top, with a round, even cutter, in suchwise as to remove a roundel of their peel with the stalk attached, and two leaves adhering thereto.
With the juice of the tangerines prepare some tangerine ice, after the directions given under Fruit-ice Preparations. Fill the tangerines with this ice; cover them with the roundels removed at the start; and, with a brush, sprinkle the rinds of the fruit with water, and place them in a refrigerator.
As soon as the tangerines are coated with frost, serve them on a napkin.
2792 — Mandarines Glacées aux Perles des Alpes
Empty the tangerines as above, and garnish them inside with tangerine mousse, with which Chartreuse bon-bons have been mixed. Cover them, and frost them as directed above.
2793 — Glace Marie-Thérèse
Take a Madeleine-mould; clothe it with chocolate ice, and fill it with vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.
After turning out, decorate it with pine-apple ice.
2794 — Meringues Glacées
Garnish some meringue shells with some kind of spoon-moulded ice, and set them on a napkin.
Or, garnish the shells more sparingly and join them together in twos.
2795 — Glace Plombière
Take a parfait mould. Garnish it with vanilla-ice cream combined with candied fruit, macerated in Kirsch; spreading the preparation in alternate layers with apricot jam.
Coupes
We are now concerned with bowls garnished, either with differently-flavoured ices, or with ices combined with Chantilly cream or candied fruit. The bowls used for this purpose should be of crystal.
2796 — Coupes D’Antigny
Three-parts fill the bowls with Alpine-strawberry ice, or, failing this, four-seasons strawberry ice, combined with very light and strongly-flavoured raw cream. The two most perfect examples of this cream are the “Fleurette Normande,” and that which in the South of France is called “Crème Niçoise,” and which comes from Alpine pastures.
2797 — Coupes Clo-Clo
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla-ice cream, combined with fragments of candied chestnuts, macerated in Maraschino. Set a candied chestnut in the middle of the ice, and surround it by means of a piping-bag with a border of Chantilly cream, containing strawberry purée.
2798 — Coupes Dame Blanche
Three-parts garnish the bowls with almond-milk ice. Upon the ice in each bowl set an overturned half-peach, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, the hollow of which should be filled with Bar red-currant jam. Surround the peaches with a thread of lemon ice, laid by means of a piping-bag.
2799 — Coupes Denise
Garnish the bowls with Moka ice, and sprinkle the latter with sweets containing liqueur (preferably rum). Cover with Chantilly cream laid on by means of the spoon.
2800 — Coupes Edna May
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, and upon the latter set some very cold stewed cherries. Cover the latter with a cone of Chantilly cream, tinted pink by means of a fresh raspberry purée.
2801 — Coupes Elizabeth
These coupes do not contain ice. They are garnished with very cold stewed choice bigaroon cherries, poached in a Kirsch-and cherry-brandy-flavoured syrup. The fruit is covered with Chantilly cream which is laid on by means of a spoon, and sprinkled with powdered spices in which cinnamon should predominate.
2802 — Coupes Emma Calve
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with pralined vanilla ice-cream. Upon the latter set some Kirsch-flavoured stewed cherries, and cover the latter with raspberry purée.
2803 — Coupes Eugenie
Garnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, combined with broken candied chestnuts. Cover the ice with Chantilly cream and upon the latter sprinkle some crystallised violets.
2804 — Coupes à la Favorite
Garnish the bowls vertically, half with Kirsch-Maraschino-flavoured ice, and half with vanilla ice-cream. Border them with a thread of pine-apple ice, and in the middle set some Chantilly cream combined with strawberry purée.
2805 — Coupes Germaine
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice, and distribute over it half-sugared cherries, macerated in Kirsch. Cover the cherries with a dry purée of chestnuts, squeezed out to resemble vermicelli, and border the bowls with Chantilly cream.
2806 — Coupes Gressac
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, and upon the latter in each bowl set three small macaroons, saturated with Kirsch. Upon the macaroons set an overturned poached half-peach, the hollow of which should be garnished with Bar red-currant jam. Surround the peaches with a border of Chantilly cream.
2807 — Coupes Jacques
Garnish the bowls vertically, half with lemon and half with strawberry ice. Between the two ices, on top of the bowl, set a tablespoonful of a macédoine of fresh fruit, macerated in Kirsch.
2808 — Coupes à la Malmaison
Garnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, combined with peeled Muscadel grapes. Veil with spun sugar.
2809 — Coupes à la Mexicaine
Garnish the bowls with tangerine ice, combined with pine-apple cut into very small dice.
2810 — Coupes Mireille
Garnish the bowls, half with vanilla ice-cream, and half with red-currant ice with cream. In the middle of each bowl set a nectarine poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, the stone of which should be replaced by Bar white-currant jam.
Decorate with Chantilly cream, and cover with a veil of spun sugar.
2811 — Coupes Petit Duc
Garnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream. Set in each a poached half-peach garnished with Bar red-currant jam. Surround the peaches with a thread of lemon ice.
2812 — Coupes Rêve de Bébé
Garnish the bowls, half with pine-apple ice and half with raspberry ice.
2813 — Coupes Madame Sans-Gêne
Garnish the bottom and sides of the bowls with a layer of vanilla ice-cream. Fill them with Bar red-currant jam, and cover the latter, by means of a spoon, with Chantilly cream.
2814 — Coupes Tutti-Frutti
Sprinkle the bottom of the bowls with various fresh fruits cut into dice; garnish the bowls with strawberry, pine-apple and lemon ices, spread alternately with layers of the same fruits.
2815 — Coupes Venus
Half-fill the bowls with vanilla ice-cream.
In the middle of each bowl set a small peach, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, with a very red, small cherry upon it.
Border the peaches with a thread of Chantilly cream.
2816 — Light Ices
These ices differ from those dealt with above, in that they are moulded and frozen directly, without a sojourn in the freezer.
To this class belong the ices most commonly served and the best; and, since their preparation requires no special utensils, they may be served everywhere: such are the “Iced Biscuits,” the “Bombes,” the “Mousses,” the “Parfaits,” the “Puddings,” and the “Iced Soufflés.”
These different kinds of ices greatly resemble one another, and their names, which are puzzling at times, are only a matter of fancy.
2817 — Various Preparations
The old iced-biscuit preparation consisted of an English custard, prepared from one lb. of sugar, twelve egg-yolks, and one pint of milk.
When the custard was cooked, it used to be strained into a basin, left to cool (being fanned the while), and then placed upon ice, and finished with the whisk. Originally this cream was moulded at this stage; but now it is customary to add one quart of whipped cream to it; which operation renders the recipe more like that of a Bombe, which, in its turn, resembles that of the preparation for Mousses.
Iced Biscuits
2818 — Preparation for Iced Biscuits
Whisk in a copper basin, in a bain-marie, twelve egg-yolks and one lb. of powdered sugar, until the paste gets very firm and reaches the ribbon-stage.
Take the basin off the fire, and whisk until the whole is quite cold. Then, add eight oz. of Italian meringue and one pint of whisked cream.
2819 — The Moulding of Iced Biscuits
These biscuits are moulded in rectangular brick-shaped cases, fitted with lids, top and bottom.
Generally, the preparation moulded in the covers is of a different flavour and colour from the one filling the middle of the mould.
For example, one of the covers may be garnished with strawberry, and the other with violet preparation, while the central portion may hold a vanilla-flavoured preparation. After having frozen them for three hours, in a pail filled with freezing ice, and turned them out, these bricks are cut up vertically into rectangles, on the cut sides of which the differently coloured layers are distinctly marked. Place these rectangles in special paper cases; decorate them on top, if the directions admit of it, and place them in a refrigerator until about to serve.
Nearly all Bombe preparations may become the base of biscuits, which are then named after them; e.g.: from Bombe Odessa, Odessa Iced Biscuits may be prepared.
Various Iced Biscuits
2820 — Iced Biscuit Bénédictine
Mould the base with strawberry ice, the middle with Bénédictine ice, and the top with violet ice. Freeze and cut up as directed.
2821 — Iced Biscuit Marquise
Mould with Kirsch and strawberry ices, alternated twice.
2822 — Iced Biscuit Mont-Blanc
Mould the base with a rum-flavoured preparation, the middle with a chestnut preparation, and the top with a vanilla-flavoured preparation.
2823 — Iced Biscuit Napolitaine
Mould the base with a vanilla-flavoured preparation, the middle with strawberry ice, and the top with a preparation of pralined biscuit.
2824 — Iced Biscuit Princesse
Mould and leave to set a biscuit-pralined preparation. After having cut up the moulding, surround it with splintered and pralined almonds.
Decorate the pieces with vanilla ice-cream and tangerine ice.
2825 — Iced Biscuit Sigurd
Mould the base with strawberry and the top with pistachio biscuit preparation. When the biscuit is frozen, cut it into rectangular slices, and sandwich each slice between two sugar wafers.
2826 — Bombes (Generic Recipe)
Originally, Bombes were made from an ordinary ice preparation, in spherical moulds; hence their name, which is once more justified by their arrangement, consisting as it used to do of superposed and concentric layers, the outermost of which was very thin. Nowadays, Bombes are more often moulded in the shape of shells, but the preparation from which they are made is much more delicate than it was formerly.
2827 — Preparation for Bombes
Gradually mix thirty-two egg-yolks with one quart of syrup at 28°. Put the whole on a very moderate fire, whisking it as for a Génoise, and, when the preparation is firm enough and taken off the fire, continue whisking it over ice until it is quite cold. Then add the selected flavour, and one and one-third quarts of stiffly-whipped cream.
2828 — The Moulding of Bombes
First clothe the bottom and sides of a mould with the ice preparation denoted by the name of the Bombe. This coat, which should vary in thickness in accordance with the size of the mould, should be somewhat thin, and made from an ordinary ice preparation, which is suited better than any other kind to this class of dish.
The middle is then filled with a Bombe preparation, flavoured as directed, or with a Mousse preparation. The whole is then covered with a round piece of white paper, and the mould is hermetically sealed with its cover, set to freeze, and left for two or three hours in the ice.
When about to serve, take the mould out of the ice; wash it with cold water; dip it quickly in tepid water; dry it with a towel, and overturn the mould on a napkin or on a block of ice.
Various Bombes
2829 — Bombe Aboukir
Having clothed the mould with pistachio ice, fill it with a pralined Bombe-preparation, combined with chopped pistachios.
2830 — Bombe Africaine
Clothe the mould with chocolate ice, and fill it with an apricot Bombe-preparation.
2831 — Bombe Abricotine
Clothe the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Kirsch-flavoured Bombe-preparation, laid in alternate layers with stewed apricots.
2832 — Bombe Aïda
Clothe the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a Kirsch-flavoured Bombe-preparation.
2833 — Bombe Almeria
Clothe the mould with Anisette ice, and fill it with a pomegranate Bombe-preparation.
2834 — Bombe Alhambra
Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and garnish it with a strawberry Bombe-preparation. After turning it out surround the Bombe with a crown of fine strawberries macerated in Kirsch.
2835 — Bombe Américaine
Clothe the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a tangerine Bombe-preparation. After turning out decorate the Bombe with pistachio ice.
2836 — Bombe Andalouse
Clothe the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a vanilla Bombe-preparation.
2837 — Bombe Batavia
Clothe the mould with a pine-apple ice and fill it up with a strawberry Bombe-preparation, combined with candied ginger cut into dice.
2838 — Bombe Bourdaloue
Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it up with an Anisette Bombe-preparation.
After turning out decorate the Bombe with crystallised violets.
2839 — Bombe Brésilienne
Clothe the mould with pine-apple ice, and fill it with a vanilla and rum Bombe-preparation combined with pine-apple dice.
2840 — Bombe Camargo
Clothe the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a vanilla Bombe-preparation.
2841 — Bombe Cardinal
Clothe the mould with a red-currant and raspberry ice, and fill it with a pralined vanilla Bombe-preparation.
2842 — Bombe Ceylan
Clothe the mould with coffee ice and fill it with a rum Bombe-preparation.
2843 — Bombe Châteaubriand
Clothe the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a vanilla Bombe-preparation.
2844 — Bombe Clarence
Clothe the mould with banana ice, and fill it with a violet Bombe-preparation.
2845 — Bombe Colombia
Clothe the mould with Kirsch ice, and fill it with a pear Bombe-preparation. After turning out decorate the Bombe with half-sugared cherries.
2846 — Bombe Coppélia
Clothe the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a pralined Bombe-preparation.
2847 — Bombe Czarine
Clothe the mould with vanilla ice, and fill it with a Kümmel Bombe-preparation. After turning out decorate it with crystallised violets.
2848 — Bombe Dame-Blanche
Clothe the mould with vanilla ice, and fill it with an almond milk Bombe-preparation.
2849 — Bombe Danicheff
Clothe the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Kirsch Bombe-preparation.
2850 — Bombe Diable Rose
Clothe the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a Kirsch Bombe-preparation, combined with half-sugared cherries.
2851 — Bombe Diplomate
Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a Maraschino Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.
2852 — Bombe Duchesse
Clothe the mould with banana-ice, and fill it with a pear Bombe-preparation flavoured with Kirsch.
2853 — Bombe Fanchon
Clothe the mould with pralined ice, and fill it with a Kirsch Bombe-preparation, containing some coffee-drops.
2854 — Bombe Fedora
Clothe the mould with orange ice, and fill it with a pralined Bombe-preparation.
2855 — Bombe Florentine
Clothe the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with a pralined Bombe-preparation.
2856 — Bombe Formosa
Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a strawberry Bombe-preparation, combined with big strawberries.
2857 — Bombe Francillon
Clothe the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Bombe-preparation flavoured with liqueur-brandy.
2858 — Bombe Frou-Frou
Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a rum Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.
2859 — Bombe Grande Duchesse
Clothe the mould with pear ice, and fill it with a Chartreuse Bombe-preparation.
2860 — Bombe Gismonda
Clothe the mould with pralined ice, and fill it with an Anisette Bombe-preparation, combined with Bar white-currant jam.
2861 — Bombe Havanaise
Clothe the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a vanilla and rum Bombe-preparation.
2862 — Bombe Hilda
Clothe the mould with filbert ice, and fill it with a Chartreuse Bombe-preparation, combined with filbert pralin.
2863 — Bombe Hollandaise
Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a Curaçao Bombe-preparation.
2864 — Bombe Jaffa
Clothe the mould with pralined ice, and fill it with an orange Bombe-preparation.
2865 — Bombe Japonaise
Clothe the mould with peach ice, and fill it with a tea mousse-preparation.
2866 — Bombe Jeanne D’Arc
Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a chocolate pralined Bombe-preparation.
2867 — Bombe Joséphine
Clothe the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a pistachio Bombe-preparation.
2868 — Bombe Madeleine
Clothe the mould with almond ice, and fill it with a vanilla and Kirsch Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.
2869 — Bombe Maltaise
Clothe the mould with blood-orange ice, and fill it with tangerine-flavoured Chantilly cream.
2870 — Bombe à la Maréchale
Clothe the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with alternate layers of pistachio, orange and vanilla Bombe-preparation.
2871 — Bombe Margot
Clothe the mould with almond ice, and fill it with pistachio Bombe-preparation. After turning out, decorate with vanilla ice-cream.
2872 — Bombe Marie Louise
Clothe the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with a vanilla Bombe-preparation.
2873 — Bombe Marquise
Clothe the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Champagne Bombe-preparation.
2874 — Bombe Mascotte
Clothe the mould with peach-ice, and fill it with a Kirsch Bombe-preparation.
2875 — Bombe Mathilde
Clothe the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with an apricot Bombe-preparation.
2876 — Bombe Médicis
Clothe the mould with brandy ice, and fill it with a raspberry Bombe-preparation.
2877 — Bombe Mercédès
Clothe the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Chartreuse Bombe-preparation.
2878 — Bombe Mignon
Clothe the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with nut Bombe-preparation.
2879 — Bombe Miss Helyett
Clothe the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with a vanilla Bombe-preparation.
2880 — Bombe Mogador
Clothe the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Kirsch Bombe-preparation.
2881 — Bombe Moldave
Clothe the mould with pine-apple ice, and fill it with a Curaçao Bombe-preparation.
2882 — Bombe Montmorency
Clothe the mould with Kirsch ice, and fill it with a cherry Bombe-preparation. After turning out, surround it with half-candied cherries.
2883 — Bombe Moscovite
Clothe the mould with Kümmel ice, and fill it with a bitter-almond Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.
2884 — Bombe Mousseline
Clothe the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with Chantilly cream, combined with strawberry purée.
2885 — Bombe Nabab
Clothe the mould with pralined ice, and fill it with a liqueur-brandy Bombe-preparation, containing candied fruit.
2886 — Bombe Nélusko
Clothe the mould with filbert pralined ice, and fill it with a chocolate Bombe-preparation.
2887 — Bombe Nero
Take a dome-mould and clothe it with vanilla ice-cream with caramel; fill it with vanilla Mousse, combined with small, imitation truffles, the size of small nuts, made from chocolate.
Turn out the Bombe on a thin cushion of Punch Biscuit, of the same diameter as the Bombe. Cover the whole with a thin layer of Italian meringue; and, on top, set a small receptacle made of Italian meringue dried in an almost cold oven. Decorate the sides by means of a piping-bag with meringue, and set the whole in the oven to glaze quickly.
2888 — Bombe Saint Laud
Clothe the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with alternate layers of melon Bombe-preparation and Chantilly cream.
2889 — Bombe Nesselrode
Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with Chantilly cream, combined with chestnut purée.
2890 — Bombe Odette
Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a pralined Bombe-preparation.
2891 — Bombe Odessa
Clothe the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a strawberry Bombe-preparation.
2892 — Bombe Orientale
Clothe the mould with ginger ice, and fill it with a pistachio Bombe-preparation.
2893 — Bombe Patricienne
Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a pralin and chocolate Bombe-preparation.
2894 — Bombe Petit Duc
Clothe the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a hazel-nut Bombe-preparation, combined with Bar red-currant jam.
2895 — Bombe Pompadour
Clothe the mould with asparagus ice, and fill it with a pomegranate Bombe-preparation.
2896 — Bombe Prophète
Clothe the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with pine-apple preparation.
2897 — Bombe Richelieu
Clothe the mould with rum ice; fill it with a coffee Bombe-preparation, and distribute coffee drops upon it after turning.
2898 — Bombe Rosette
Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it up with red-currant-flavoured Chantilly cream, combined with red-currants.
2899 — Bombe à la Royale
Clothe the mould with Kirsch ice, and fill it with a chocolate pralined Bombe-preparation.
2900 — Bombe Santiago
Clothe the mould with Brandy ice, and fill it with a pistachio Bombe-preparation.
2901 — Bombe Sélika
Clothe the mould with pralined ice, and fill it with a Curaçao Bombe-preparation.
2902 — Bombe Skobeleff
Clothe the mould with Vodka ice, and fill it with Kümmel-flavoured Chantilly cream.
2903 — Bombe Strogoff
Clothe the mould with peach ice, and fill it with a Champagne Bombe-preparation.
2904 — Bombe Succês
Clothe the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with Kirsch-flavoured Chantilly cream, combined with candied apricots cut into dice.
2905 — Bombe Sultane
Clothe the mould with chocolate ice, and fill it with a pralined Bombe-preparation.
2906 — Bombe Suzanne
Clothe the mould with pink rum ice, and fill it with vanilla Bombe-preparation, combined with Bar red-currant jam.
2907 — Bombe Tortoni
Clothe the mould with pralined ice, and fill it with coffee Bombe-preparation, containing coffee seeds.
2908 — Bombe Tosca
Clothe the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Maraschino and fruit Bombe-preparation. After turning out, decorate the Bombe with lemon ice.
2909 — Bombe Trocadéro
Clothe the mould with orange ice, combined with candied orange-rind, cut into small dice; and fill with alternate layers of Chantilly cream and roundels of filbert Génoise, cut in graduated sizes, and saturated with Curaçao syrup. Sprinkle some orange-zest dice on each roundel of Génoise.
2910 — Bombe Tutti-Frutti
Clothe the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a lemon Bombe-preparation, combined with various candied fruits, cut into dice.
2911 — Bombe à la Valençay
Clothe the mould with pralined ice, and fill it with Chantilly cream, combined with raspberries.
2912 — Bombe Vénitienne
Clothe the mould half with vanilla and half with strawberry ice and fill it with a Maraschino and Kirsch Bombe-preparation.
2913 — Bombe Victoria
Clothe the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with Plombière ice.
2914 — Bombe Zamora
Clothe the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Curaçao Bombe-preparation.
Iced Mousses
The composition for mousses is prepared either from English cream or from syrup. The last method is specially suited to fruit mousses.
2915 — Preparation for Iced Fruit Mousses
This is a cold syrup at 35°, to which is added an equal quantity of a purée of the fruit under treatment, and twice that amount of very stiff Chantilly cream.
2916 — Preparation of Iced Mousse With Cream
Make an English cream from one lb. of powdered sugar, sixteen egg-yolks, and one pint of milk, and leave it to cool.
When it is quite cold, add to it one pint of raw cream, two-thirds oz. of powdered tragacanth gum, and the flavour which is to characterise the preparation.
If the mousse be a fruit one, add to it one pint of a purée of fresh fruit.
Whisk over ice, until the preparation gets very frothy; put it into moulds, lined with white paper; thoroughly close them, and keep them in a refrigerator for two or three hours, subject to their size.
2917 — Various Iced Mousses
After the same procedure, mousses may be prepared with Anisette, Coffee, Chocolate, Kirsch, Maraschino, Rum, Tea, etc.; Apricots, Strawberries, Oranges and Tangerines, fresh Walnuts, Peaches, Vanilla, Violets, etc.
2918 — Parfait (Generic Recipe)
Mix thirty egg-yolks with one quart of cold syrup at 28°. Put the mixture on a slow fire, and cook it as for an English cream; strain it, and whisk it on ice until it is quite cold.
Add three pints of very stiff, whisked cream and one-fifth pint of brandy or rum, in order to finish it; mould the preparation in Parfait moulds, and pack them in a freezer for from two to three hours.
N.B.—The term “Parfait,” which, formerly, was applied only to “Parfait au Café,” has become the common name for un-clothed ices, made from Bombe-preparations having but one flavour. And this is fairly logical, seeing that Bombe-preparations, but for a few insignificant distinctions, are exactly like Parfait-preparation.
It is therefore just as reasonable to make vanilla, chocolate, and pralined Parfaits, etc., as to make them with coffee.
2919 — Iced Puddings
Preparations of this class follow no hard and fast rules, and, in reality, they are not ices at all. They are nothing else than iced entremets, the bases of which generally consist of thick English custard, the same as that which serves in the preparation of Bavarois.
The few following recipes, however, are exceptions to this rule.
2920 — Pudding de Castries
Clothe a Bombe mould with a thin layer of vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with two Bombe-preparations, spread in somewhat thick, alternate layers. One of the preparations should be of vanilla, on each thickness of which a layer of lady’s-finger biscuits, cut into dice and sprinkled with Anisette, should be spread; and the other preparation should be of tangerine.
Between the layers, sprinkle a few pinches of grated chocolate, and fill up the mould with a thickness of vanilla ice-cream.
Thoroughly close the utensil; pack it for about two or three hours. Turn it out on a folded napkin; sprinkle thereon a few red, crushed pralins; and serve an iced tangerine syrup separately.
2921 — Marie-Rose Pudding
Line a Charlotte mould with rolled gaufrettes; placing them snugly one against the other. By means of a piping-bag, fill the gaufrettes with very stiff strawberry ice, and then fill the mould with a vanilla pralined Bombe-preparation. Keep the mould in the refrigerator for three hours, and turn out the pudding on a napkin. Decorate it on top with pink and white Chantilly cream. Serve a chocolate ice-cream separately.
2922 — Pudding Miramar
Garnish an iced, Madeleine-mould with lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated with Chartreuse, and alternate them with thin slices of fresh pine-apple, saturated in Kirsch, and pipped sections of tangerine, skinned raw.
Serve an iced, vanilla syrup separately.
2923 — Pudding Seymour
Cut a Mousseline Brioche into thin slices, and set these to soak in raw, sweetened and Kirsch-flavoured cream. Peel and finely slice some peaches, and poach them in vanilla-flavoured syrup; also peel some very ripe William pears.
Prepare a pink Bombe-preparation, flavoured with Kirsch and Orgeat; and then fill up the mould with alternate layers of the slices of Brioche and of fruit, with Bar red-currant jam added; and the Bombe-preparation.
Close the mould, keep it in ice for two hours, and turn out the pudding on a napkin.
2924 — Iced Soufflées
The preparation differs according as to whether the Soufflés be prepared with fruit, or with such flavours as Vanilla, Coffee, Chocolate, etc.
The last named are made with the Iced-Mousse preparation (No. 2916), which may also serve for the fruit Soufflés; but, in the case of the latter, the following preparation is preferable:—
Whisk the whites of ten eggs to a very stiff froth, and add to this one and one-tenth lbs. of sugar cooked to the small-crack stage. Transfer the whole to a basin; flavour according to fancy, and add one pint of a purée of fruit and one pint of very stiffly-whisked cream.
2925 — The Moulding of Large and Small Iced Soufflés
Mould the large ones in ordinary Soufflé timbales, which should be lined with bands of white paper, fixed with butter, and overreaching the edges of the timbales by one and a half to two inches, that the preparation, in projecting above the brims of the utensils, may appear like a Soufflé when the paper is removed.
The small Soufflés are moulded in cases or in small silver cassolettes, which are likewise wrapped in bands of paper, that the preparation may rise above their brims. As soon as they are moulded, put the Soufflés in a very cold refrigerator; and when about to serve them, carefully remove the bands of paper which, once the preparation has solidified, have served their purpose; and dish the cases or silver cassolettes on a napkin or on a carved block of ice.
Like the Bombes, and the Iced Biscuits, Iced Soufflés may be indefinitely varied, owing to the multitudinous combinations to which they lend themselves.
2926 — Sorbets (Sherbets)
Sherbets and their derivative preparations consist of very light and barely-congealed ices, served after the Entrées. They serve in freshening the stomach; preparing it to properly receive the roast.
They are at once appetisers and helps to digestion.
2927 — Preparation for Sorbets
Sherbets are made from any liqueur ice preparation at 15°; or they may be prepared as follows:—For one quart of preparation, take the juice of two lemons and one orange, half-a-pint of port wine, of Samos wine, of Sauterne, or other good wine; and add cold syrup at 22°, until the saccharometer registers 15°.
For liqueur sherbets, allow about one-fifth pint of liqueur per quart of the preparation; but remember that this is subject to the kind of liqueur used. For the quantity just prescribed, use syrup at 18° or 19°, which the subsequent addition of liqueur reduces to the proper degree. Whatever be the kind of liqueur, the latter should only be added when the Sherbet is completely frozen; that is to say at the last moment.
Fruit Sorbets are generally prepared from the juices and syrups of aqueous fruits. Fruit purées are scarcely suited to this mode of procedure, and they are only resorted to in exceptional cases.
The Freezing of Sherbets.—Pour the preparation into the turbine or the freezer, which should have been previously packed, and keep the utensil on the move. Remove portions of the preparation from the sides of the receptacle as fast as they adhere thereto, and mix them with the whole, until the latter is completely congealed; remembering not to stir at all during the freezing process. When the preparation is firm enough, mix with it, gently, the quarter of its weight of Italian meringue or very stiffly whipped cream; and finish by the addition of the liqueur.
The Dishing of Sherbets.—Take some of the Sherbet preparation in a spoon, and set it in Sherbet or Sherry glasses, shaping it to a point.
When the Sherbet is prepared with wine, sprinkle the preparation when it is in the glasses with a tablespoonful of the selected wine.
2928 — Various Sorbets
Having pointed out that Sherbets may be prepared from the juices of every fruit such as Pine-apple, Cherries, Strawberries, Raspberries, Red-currants, etc., and from every wine and liqueur such as Port, Samos wine, Marsala, Johannisberg, Rum, Kirsch, Liqueur-Brandy, etc., and since the procedure is the same in every case, there is no need to devote a special article to each.
2929 — Sorbet à la Sicilienne
Keep a very green water melon in the refrigerator for three hours.
One hour before serving, open it on top, as directed under “Surprise Melon,” and withdraw the seeds.
Then, detach the pulp by means of a silver spoon, without withdrawing it from the fruit; sprinkle it with Maraschino, and put the whole back into the refrigerator.
Dish on fragmented ice or on a block of the latter, and serve the pulp before the diners in Sherbet glasses.
2930 — Granités
Granités answer the same purpose as Sherbets, while they may also be introduced into certain culinary preparations.
The bases of these preparations consist of very thin syrups made from fruit juices, and not overreaching fourteen degrees (saccharometer).
Granités consist only of iced syrups, and are not combined with any Italian or other meringue.
As in the case of the Sherbets, but more particularly in regard to these, the operator should remember not to stir the syrup during the freezing process, lest it turn; and, when it is congealed, it should form a light, granulated mass.
2931 — Marquises
Marquises are generally made from strawberries or pine-apple, with Kirsch. The preparation is that of a Sherbet with Kirsch, registering 17° by the saccharometer. The freezing is done as for Granités; but it should be carried a little further.
When about to serve, mix the preparation per pint thereof with half a pint of very stiff Chantilly cream, combined with a strawberry or pine-apple purée, subject to the designation of the Marquise.
2932 — Punch à la Romaine
Mix sufficient dry white wine, or dry champagne, with one pint of syrup at 22°, to reduce the latter to 17°; add the juice of two oranges and two lemons, a strip of orange and lemon zest, and let infusion proceed for one hour.
Strain the syrup and bring it to 18°.
Freeze in the freezer, until it is somewhat stiff, and mix it with the quarter of its volume of Italian meringue (prepared from two egg-whites and three and a half oz. of sugar).
When about to serve, complete with one-fifth pint of Rum, added little by little.
Serve the preparation in glasses, after the style of the Sherbets.
N.B.—For all Sherbets and Punches, one quart of the finished preparation should be allowed for every ten people.
2933 — Spooms
Spoom is a kind of Sherbet prepared from a syrup at 20°. Add to it twice as much Italian meringue as was added to the Sherbets. Do not work it too briskly, that it may remain very light and frothy.
Spooms are made from fruit juices; but more often from such wines as Champagne, Samos, Muscat, Zucco, etc.
Serve it in glasses like the Sherbets.
Notes
Turn it out upon a regular disc, consisting of a thick layer of white spun sugar, lying on a dish. This spun sugar throws the ice into relief, and emits rays which dart out from between the points of the star.
Upon the ice of each bowl set a half-peach, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup; and veil the whole thinly with spun sugar.
Between the two ices set a line of small strawberries, macerated in orange juice. Border the bowls with Chantilly cream, and sprinkle the latter with crystallised violets.
On taking the Bombe out of the oven, pour some hot rum into the bowl, and set a light to it when serving.
Fill up the mould with a Bombe-preparation of pomegranate juice, flavoured with Kirsch; close the mould, keep it in ice for two hours, and turn out the pudding on a napkin when about to serve.
The consistence of a Sherbet, of what kind soever, should be such as to allow of its being drunk.