A Guide to Modern Cookery

Chapter XX Entremets (Sweets)

Pastry, Confectionery, and Ices are so closely allied to Cookery, and they are so surely its complements, that it is impossible to omit them when dealing with Entremets, even though the latter be limited to the kind proper to the kitchen.

However, these subjects, which could supply matter for voluminous works, are too complex for it to be possible to cope thoroughly with them here.

I shall therefore confine myself to the expounding of their fundamental principles and the essential operations relating thereto, a knowledge of which is absolutely necessary for the successful preparation of Kitchen Entremets and Ices. The directions given hereafter are certainly too inadequate to convert an ordinary cook into a pastry-cook, a confectioner, or a “glacier”; but they will at least admit of his carrying out a complete dinner, if the necessity so to do should occur.

Elementary Preparations of Pastry Which May Be Applied to Entremets

2338 — Various Almond Preparations

It is important that one should have skinned, splintered, and chopped almonds.

To Skin Almonds.—Throw them in a saucepan of boiling water, place the utensil on the side of the fire without allowing the boiling to continue, and let the almonds soak for seven or eight minutes. As soon as the skin slips when pressing them between one’s fingers, turn them out on to a strainer; cool them in cold water, and skin them. This done, wash them in cold water; drain them well; spread them on a very clean tray, and dry them in a mild oven.

Splintered Almonds.—Having skinned and washed the almonds, split them in two, and cut each half into five or six splinters. Dry the latter in the drying-box, and place them in the front of the oven for a while to colour slightly.

Chopped Almonds.—Having skinned the almonds, slightly dry them and chop them with a knife; rub them through a canvas sieve, the coarseness of which should be in accordance with that required for the chopped almonds.

Spread the latter on a tray covered with a sheet of paper, and dry them in the drying-box, stirring them from time to time the while.

Grilled Almonds.—These are either splintered or chopped almonds set to bake on a tray in a moderate oven. Be sure to stir them frequently, that they may colour evenly, and withdraw them when they are of a nice golden shade.

Pralined Almonds.—Proceed as for grilled almonds, but sprinkle them frequently with icing sugar, which turns to caramel under the influence of the heat of the oven, and swathes the almonds in a pale-brown coat of sugar.

2339 — Various Preparations of Filberts and Hazel-Nuts

Filberts are a large kind of hazel-nut, generally covered with red skins.

After having cracked and suppressed the shells, set the filberts on a dish, and place them in the front of the oven until their skins are slightly grilled. They need then only be rubbed between the fingers in order to clear them of their skins. Chopped filberts are prepared like chopped almonds, and should be included in the permanent “mise en place” of the pastry cook.

2340 — Various Butters

Softened Butter.—More particularly in winter, when it is very hard, butter should be softened, i.e., thoroughly kneaded in a towel, to:—

1. Extract the butter-milk, which is always present in more or less large quantities.

2. Make it sufficiently soft to mix with the various ingredients of which the pastes are made up.

Pomaded Butter.—After having well softened it as above, put it in a bowl or basin, previously rinsed with hot water and thoroughly wiped. Work the butter with a spatula or a wooden spoon until it acquires the consistence of a pomade—a necessary condition for certain of its uses.

Clarified Butter.—In pastry, clarified butter is used more especially for the buttering of moulds. Put the butter to be clarified into a saucepan, and cook it over a very slow fire until (1) the caseous substances liberated in the cooking process have accumulated and solidified on the bottom of the saucepan; (2) it appears limpid, of a golden colour, and exhales a slight, nutty smell.

Strain it through muslin, and put it aside until required.

2341 — The Buttering and Glazing of Moulds

All moulds, large and small, should be buttered so as to ensure the easy turning-out of cakes cooked in them. Clarified butter, owing to its purity, is the best for the purpose. It may be applied with a brush, care being taken that all the inside surfaces get uniformly covered with it. One unbuttered spot is sufficient to make a moulding stick, or to completely spoil a cake.

For certain cakes, chopped or splintered almonds are sprinkled in the mould. For others, especially biscuits, the moulds are flour-dusted—that is to say, a veil of very dry flour or fecula is allowed to settle on the layer of butter, which, at the turning out, appears like a glazed crust upon the cake.

2342 — How to Beat the Whites of Eggs

The best utensil for the purpose is a copper or nickel basin in which the whisk may act at all points owing to the spherical shape of the receptacle. Tinned or enamelled utensils set up a kind of greasiness which does not allow of one’s bringing the whites to the stiffness necessary for some purposes.

Begin whisking the whites gently, and draw them up with the whisk until all their molecules have disaggregated and they begin to stiffen. They may then be whisked until they are sufficiently stiff to be taken up bodily by the whisk.

Preventive Means.—To facilitate the beating of whites of eggs, there may be added to them at the start a pinch either of salt or alum per ten whites. When, towards the close of the operation, the whites begin to granulate, owing to any one of the various causes, add immediately one tablespoonful of powdered sugar per ten whites, and then whisk briskly, to restore them to their normal state.

2343 — Vegetable Colouring Matters

Every pastry-cook’s stock should include a series of vegetable colouring matters, comprising carmine, liquid spinach green, yellow, &c.

When required, the blending of these colours yields the intermediate tones. The colours may be bought.

2344 — The Cooking of Sugar

From the state of syrup to the most highly-concentrated state in which it is used in pastry sugar passes through various stages of cooking, which are:—The small thread (215° F.) and the large thread (222° F.), the small ball (236° F.) and the large ball (248° F.), the small crack (285° F.) and the large crack (315° F.). When the last state is overreached, the sugar has become caramel (360° F.).

Put the necessary quantity of loaf sugar in a small, copper saucepan; moisten with enough water to melt it, and boil. Carefully remove the scum which forms, and which might cause the sugar to granulate.

As soon as the sugar begins to move stiffly in boiling, it is a sign that the water has almost entirely evaporated, and that the real cooking of the sugar has begun.

From this moment, with moistened fingers or a little piece of moistened linen, take care to remove the crystallised sugar from the sides of the utensil, lest it makes the remaining portion turn.

The cooking of the sugar then progresses very rapidly, and the states of its various stages, coming one upon the other in quick succession at intervals of a few minutes, may be ascertained as follows:—

It has reached the small-thread stage, when a drop of it held between the thumb and the first finger forms small resistless strings when the thumb and finger are drawn apart.

It has reached the large-thread stage, when, proceeding in the same way, the strings formed between the parted finger and thumb are more numerous and stronger.

From this moment recourse must be had to cold water in order to ascertain the states of the sugar.

When a few minutes have elapsed after the test for the large-thread state, dip the end of the first finger, first into cold water, then into the sugar, and plunge it again immediately into the bowl of cold water, which should be ready at hand. The sugar taken from the finger forms a kind of soft ball, and it is this state which is called the small ball.

When, upon repeating the procedure, the sugar removed from the finger rolls into a firmer ball, the large-ball stage is reached.

After the cooking has continued for a few seconds longer, the sugar lying on the finger peels off in the form of a thin, flexible film, which sticks to the teeth. This is the small-crack stage. Tests should then be made in quick succession, until the film taken from the end of the finger breaks “clean” in the teeth, like glass. This is the large-crack state, the last of the cooking stages, and as soon as it has been reached the utensil should be taken off the fire, lest a few seconds more turn the sugar to caramel.

To prevent the granulating of the sugar, a few drops of lemon juice may be added to it; or, better still, a tablespoonful of glucose per lb.

2345 — Glace à l’Ancienne

Put the required amount of icing sugar in a small saucepan, the quantity used being in proportion to the object to be glazed.

If it be flavoured with vanilla, orange, or lemon, dilute it with a little water, keeping it somewhat stiff; add some vanilla-flavoured sugar or grated orange-rind, and stir it up well for a few minutes. Then make it lukewarm, so that it may run easily and dry quickly, and pour it over the object to be treated.

For the above-mentioned flavours, an infusion of vanilla or orange-rind may be prepared, and this may serve in diluting the glaze. The flavours may also be used in the form of essences, provided it be remembered that they are usually very strong thus, and must be used with caution.

If liqueur glazes are in question, such as Kirsch, Rum, Anisette, or Marasquin, &c., the glaze is diluted with the liqueur and made lukewarm as directed above.

2346 — Glace au Fondant

Preparation of the “Fondant.”—Put some loaf sugar into a small saucepan, the quantity being in accordance with the amount of “Fondant” required.

Moisten with just enough water to melt the sugar, and set to cook as directed under “The Cooking of Sugar.”

Stop the cooking precisely at 230° F. between the large-thread stage and the small-ball stage, and pour the sugar on a moderately-oiled marble slab. Let it half cool for a few minutes; then, with a spatula, move it about well in all directions, taking care that no portion of the sugar on the marble is left untouched by the spatula, for any such portion would harden and form lumps in the Fondant.

After ten to fifteen minutes’ work with the spatula, the sugar should have become a white, slightly granulated paste. Heap the latter together, and scrape the marble slab with the blade of a strong knife. Carefully knead this paste (No. 2357) with the palm of the hand until it is very thin and smooth, whereupon the Fondant is ready for use.

To Glaze with “Fondant.”—Put the required amount of it into a saucepan; work it over a slow fire for a while, in order to soften it, and moisten it, little by little, with water when a dry flavour or an essence is used, or, otherwise, with the selected liqueur.

Warm slightly in order to make the glaze very liquid and to ensure its speedy drying, and pour it, at one tilt, over the object to be glazed.

With the help of some colour, the glaze is generally given the tint of the fruit which flavours it.

2346a — Sucre en Glace (Icing Sugar)

This is sugar strained through a silken drum-sieve. The sugar strained through this silk has the delicacy of starch. At times it is used instead of Fondant for the glazing of cakes, but it is mostly used for white and caramel glazings. For this purpose the sugar is held in a tin box, covered with a lid pierced with small holes, called a sugar dredger.

To glaze white is to cover a cake, a fritter, or other object with a coat of icing sugar. This operation is effected by shaking the sugar dredger over the object to be glazed.

To glaze with caramel is to cover a Soufflé, a souffléd omelet, fruit fritters, a custard, Pannequets, or other objects with a coat of icing sugar. By placing the sugar-coated object in fierce heat, a few minutes suffice to melt the sugar, which is converted into a brilliant covering of caramel.

2347 — Sugar Grains

These are used in pastry to border certain cakes, or to surround the sugared-paste bases on which cakes are set. For this purpose the parts to which the sugar is expected to adhere must be besmeared with cooked apricot.

To make them, roughly pound some loaf sugar, and sift the latter first through a coarse strainer, and then through a finer one, according to the size the sugar grains are required to be. The powder will, of course, fall and leave the grains clean.

2348 — Coloured Sugar Grains

To colour sugar grains, spread them on a piece of paper, and add a drop of liquid vegetable-colouring or a very little coloured paste per tablespoonful of sugar. The amount of colouring matter may either be lessened or increased, according to the strength the shade is required to be.

Rub the sugar in the hand to colour it evenly; dry it in a moderately warm drying-box, and keep it in the dry in well-closed boxes.

2349 — Vanilla Sugar

The vanilla sticks which have served in preparing infusions still possess some flavour. Reserve them, therefore, for the making of vanilla sugar.

After having gently dried them in the drying-box, finely pound them with twice their weight of loaf sugar; sift through a silken sieve, and again pound the bits remaining on the silk of the sieve until every particle goes through. Keep the preparation in a well-closed box in the dry.

2350 — Candied Fruit

These are used in the decoration of certain cakes, and as the constituent ingredients of others.

They comprise angelica, golden and green chinois, cherries, plums, red and white pears, &c.

Candied fruit may be bought ready-prepared.

2351 — Apple Jelly for Decorating

Quarter, peel, and core the apples (preferably russets), and throw them, one by one, in a bowl of fresh water to prevent their getting brown.

Then put them in a copper basin with one and one-half pints of water per two lbs. of apples, and cook them gently without touching them.

This done, pour away their juice, and return it to the basin together with two lbs. of sugar per quart. Boil; skim with great care, that the jelly may be clear, and cook over a fierce fire until the jelly has reached a stage which may be ascertained thus:—(1) When on taking the skimmer out of the basin, the jelly adhering to it seems to mass itself towards the middle of the skimmer; or:—(2) When the jelly breaks up into large drops, separated one from the other.

Then take the jelly off the fire; add some carmine to it, drop by drop, until it acquires a rosy hue; strain it again through a fine piece of linen, that it may be perfectly limpid, and finally pour it into tin receptacles to cool.

Put aside until wanted.

2352 — Pralin

(1) If it be for the purpose of covering certain cakes, or for forming a glaze on a fruit entremet, prepare it thus:—Put the whites of two eggs and three tablespoonfuls of icing sugar in a small basin. Mix and stir briskly with a small, wooden spoon, until the paste becomes somewhat thick. Then, subject to the purpose for which it is intended, add a more or less large quantity of chopped almonds, according as to whether the pralin be required thick or slightly liquid for spreading. Cover it with a piece of white paper, moistened with white of egg, that it may remain moist if kept for some time.

(2) If it is to be added to a soufflé preparation, to a souffléd omelet, to a preparation of ice, or to a custard, it is a nougat powder which is prepared as follows:—

Gently melt one lb. of powdered sugar in a small saucepan, taking care not to let it acquire a deeper shade than old gold. Mix twenty oz. of dried almonds with it; turn the whole out on to the corner of a slightly-oiled marble slab (or on an overturned saucepan-lid), and leave to cool. When the nougat is quite cold, pound it and rub it through a sieve.

Pound and rub what remains in the sieve until the whole goes through.

Put the powder in a well-closed box, and place the latter in a dry place.

2353 — Currants and Sultanas

Sultanas and currants should always be at hand, ready and cleaned. To clean them, first dredge them and then rub them in a towel, closed to form a sort of purse. Now, turn them into a sieve or colander, which shake vigorously, that the flour and the detached stems may be eliminated; then examine them, one by one, to make sure that no stems remain.

Currants should be examined with very particular care, as small stones often get in among them.

Put the currants and the sultanas aside, each in a box or a drawer.

2354 — Essences and Flavourings

The various essences used in pastry are bought ready-made. The flavourings consist of those products treated by infusion, such as vanilla; of grated or infused products, such as lemon and orange rinds; and liqueurs in general.

Fruit juices only become flavours when a liqueur in keeping with the fruit from which they were extracted has been added to them.

2355 — Gilding Preparation

This consists of beaten eggs. Its purpose is to ensure the colouration of certain cakes, whereon it is smeared by means of a brush. In some cases this gilding may be combined with a little water, as, for instance, when the heat of the oven is too fierce, and cakes are required of a light colour. In some cases, especially in that of small, dry cakes, it consists entirely of egg-yolks diluted with a few drops of water.

The Pastes

2356 — Ordinary Short Paste

Sift one lb. of flour over the mixing-board; make a hollow in its midst, and put therein one-sixth oz. of salt, one-third pint of cold water, and one-half lb. of butter well softened—especially in winter. Mix the flour gradually with the butter and the water; mass the whole a moment or two, and knead it (see No. 2357) twice. Then roll it up in a ball; wrap it in a piece of linen that its surface may not dry, and put it aside in the cool.

Remarks: A kneaded paste should be prepared either one day, or at least a few hours, in advance, in order that it may lose that elasticity which it acquires from the kneading.

Pastes, after they have rested awhile, are much more easily treated, and bake a much more definite and lighter colour, than those that are used as soon as they are prepared.

2357 — The Kneading of Pastes

The object of kneading paste is to combine the ingredients of which it is composed thoroughly, and also to smooth it. Proceed as follows:—

When the paste is mixed, roll it into a mass; put it in front of one; then press it away from one, little by little, between the board and the palm of the hand. For the paste to be perfectly smooth, it ought to be treated twice in this way.

2358 — Fine, Short or Flawn Paste (For Fruit Tarts)

Sift one lb. of flour on to the mixing-board, and hollow it out. Put in the hollow one-third oz. of salt, one and one-half oz. of powdered sugar, an egg, one-fourth pint of cold water, and ten oz. of butter. First, thoroughly mix the butter, the egg, the water, and the seasoning, and then gradually combine the flour with it.

Knead the paste; press it out twice; roll it into a ball, and wrap it up as before with the view of setting it aside in the cool to rest.

2359 — Dressing Paste (Pâte à Pâté)

Take one lb. of sifted flour, four oz. of butter, one egg, one-third oz. of salt, and one-fourth pint of water. Mix as already directed; knead twice; roll up the paste, and set it in the cool to rest. This paste should be kept somewhat firm.

2360 — Dressing Paste With Lard

Take one lb. of sifted flour, four oz. of lard, one-quarter pint of tepid water, one egg, one-third oz. of salt, and proceed exactly as in the case of No. 2359.

2361 — Dumpling and Pudding Pastes

Break up ten oz. of very dry beef suet, and carefully clear it of all little pieces of skin and connective tissue. Chop it up as finely as possible; sift one lb. of flour on to the mixing-board; hollow it out; and put into the hollow one-half oz. of salt, one and one-half oz. of sugar, one-third pint of water, and the chopped suet. Mix up these various ingredients, and, by degrees, combine the flour with them.

Mass the paste together, without kneading it, and put it aside in the cool until it is wanted.

2362 — Dry Sugared Paste for Various Purposes

Take one lb. of sifted flour, seven oz. of butter, five oz. of powdered sugar, three eggs, and one-half tablespoonful of orange-flower water.

Mix in the usual way, knead it twice; roll it into a ball, and keep it wrapped up, in the cool, until required.

2363 — Paste for Small Gummed Tea-Cakes

Take one lb. of sifted flour, ten oz. of butter, ten oz. of sugar, one egg, the yolks of four, and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water.

Mix up gradually; mass the paste together, and roll it out into a thin layer, twice. Roll it up, and let it rest awhile in the cool before it is used.

2364 — Gumming

In the case of certain small cakes, especially those served at tea, it is usual to gum their surfaces in order to make them glossy. For this purpose a thin solution of gum arabic is used, and it is smeared over the cakes as they leave the oven, by means of a small brush.

Cakes may also be gummed with a syrup formed from milk and sugar, which mixture may be used instead of gum arabic with advantage.

2365 — Galette Paste

Hollow out one lb. of sifted flour and put in its midst one-third oz. of salt, two oz. of powdered sugar, one-quarter pint of water, and one-half lb. of softened butter.

Mix, taking care to include the flour only by degrees; thoroughly knead, that the ingredients may be well combined, and mass the paste together without making it too elastic. Leave it to rest in the cool for at least an hour; then roll it out thrice, at intervals of eight minutes, for the reasons given under the directions for puff-paste.

2366 — Puff-Paste

(1) Sift one lb. of flour on to the mixing-board. Make a hollow in it, and put therein one-third oz. of table salt and about one-half pint of cold water, and mix without kneading. Mass the paste together, and let it rest for twenty minutes, that it may lose its elasticity, which will be all the more pronounced for its having been very much worked. It is to avoid this elasticity, therefore, that the mixing of puff-paste should be effected with the smallest amount of kneading possible.

(2) Spread the prepared paste on a flour-dusted board, in the shape of an even galette. Spread thereon one lb. of softened butter, without completely covering the paste; draw the edges of the paste towards the centre, in such wise as to enclose the butter completely, and to form a square thickness of paste.

(3) Leave to rest for a further ten minutes and then begin the working of the paste; rolling it out to the length of one and one-half feet, and keeping it one in. thick. Fold this layer over thrice, and press upon it with the roller so as to join the superposed layers. The whole of this operation constitutes one turn.

Begin another turn immediately, turning the paste the reverse way, and folding it as before. Set it to rest in the cool for eight or ten minutes, and then effect two more turns.

Ten minutes after the two last turns (there should be six in all), the puff-paste is ready to be cut up and used.

Remarks relative to puff-paste: Good puff-paste should be buttered to the extent of one lb. per one and one-half lbs., i.e., one lb. of butter for every one lb. of flour mixed with one-half pint of water. The consistence of the paste and the butter should be exactly the same, if they are to be evenly mixed; the butter ought therefore to be softened—more particularly in winter.

In preparing puff-paste, remember to put it in a cool place while it is resting; but never directly upon ice; for, though the ice would not affect the paste, it might seriously affect the butter.

It would harden it to the extent of preventing its perfect mixture with the mass, and lumps would form. Puff-paste should be rolled out very regularly, with the view of thoroughly distributing the butter throughout the preparation, and thus ensuring its uniform rising.

Puff-paste should not be worked too speedily; for, if it be so worked, it will be found to acquire an elasticity which not only makes it difficult to cut up, but also tends to make it shrink in the baking.

2367 — Puff-Paste Trimmings or Half Puff-Paste

These are very useful in pastry work, for tartlets, barquettes, croûtons, &c. When the puff-paste is cut up, the trimmings should therefore be rolled into a ball, and put aside in the cool. Nevertheless they must be used within the space of two days in summer and four days in winter.

2368 — Ordinary Brioche Paste

(1) Sift one lb. of flour on to the board; take a quarter of it, make a hollow in it, and put therein one-quarter oz. of very fresh, dry yeast. Mix the yeast and the flour with a little tepid water, so as to obtain a soft paste which is the leaven. Roll this paste into a ball; make two slits in its top, at right angles to one another, and place it in a small basin.

Cover the latter, and put it in a somewhat warm place, that the leaven may be sure to ferment.

(2) Make a hollow in the remaining flour, and put into it one-quarter oz. of salt, and one and one-half oz. of sugar, together with two tablespoonfuls of milk to melt it, one-third of the whole amount of the butter to be used, namely, four oz., and four eggs.

Begin by thoroughly mixing the butter, eggs and seasoning, and then combine the flour therewith, by degrees. When the paste forms a compact mass, knead and pull it about with the hands, that it may be light. When, at the end of a few minutes, it has acquired a certain resilience, make a hole in the middle of it and add one egg. Mix the latter with the paste; work it afresh, and after an interval of two minutes add one more egg in the same way. The total number of eggs for the quantities of other ingredients given above should be six.

(3) Add the remaining butter (eight oz.) to the paste; the former being manied and even softened, just sufficiently to make it of the same consistence as the paste.

Spread it on the latter, and mix the two; kneading small portions at a time, and combining those portions so as to mix the two elements completely.

At this stage, overturn the paste and spread the leaven (which should now be equal to twice its original bulk) upon it.

Mix it well as in the case of the butter, without working the paste.

For it to have the desired lightness, this paste should ferment for from ten to twelve hours. However, at the end of five or six hours, the process is arrested by the working of the paste; that is to say, by turning it out upon a flour-dusted board and beating it with the palm of the hand.

It is then returned to the basin to ferment afresh, for five or six hours; and then it is once more beaten just before being used.

2369 — Mousseline Brioche Paste

Mousseline brioche paste is made from the ordinary kind, combined with a little butter and developed in the mould by fermentation before the baking process—which procedure makes it exceedingly light and delicate.

This paste is used in the preparation of certain timbales for fruit sweets, and it is prepared as follows:—

Take the required amount of ordinary brioche paste, and add to it, per lb. of paste, two oz. of best butter, softened to the consistence of an ointment, that it may thoroughly mix with the paste. Roll the paste into a ball, and put it in a liberally-buttered mould, only filling two-thirds of the latter with it. The remaining third of the mould gets filled by the rising of the paste. Place the mould in a temperate room, until the paste has risen to the edges of the mould; besmear the surface of the paste with a brush dipped in melted butter, and bake in a moderate oven.

2370 — Ordinary Brioche Paste (for Rissoles, Small Patties à la Dauphine, and Various Other Preparations)

Quantities: one lb. of flour, seven oz. of butter, four fair-sized eggs, salt, a pinch of powdered sugar; one-third oz. of very dry, fresh yeast, and a little tepid milk.

(1) Make the leaven with a quarter of the flour, the yeast and the lukewarm milk, and set it to ferment while the paste is being prepared.

(2) Prepare the paste as already directed, and keep it fermenting as before for ten hours, taking care to arrest the process once.

The work is the same as in the preceding case, in every particular, except in regard to the amount of butter, which in this instance is only half as much; in regard to the amount of sugar, which should only be just sufficient to ensure the colouring of the paste; and finally in regard to its firmness, which should admit of the paste being worked with a rolling-pin.

2371 — Savarin Paste

Quantities: One lb. of flour; twelve oz. of butter; one-half oz. of very dry, fresh yeast; eight eggs; about one-third pint of milk; one-half oz. of salt, and one oz. of sugar.

Procedure: Savarin paste may be prepared in several ways; but the one given below is as simple and expeditious as could be desired.

Sift the flour into a basin (or a round wooden bowl, better suited to the work); hollow it out; add the yeast, and dissolve the latter by means of tepid milk, stirring slightly with the tip of the finger.

Add the eggs; mix the whole; work the paste by hand for a few minutes; detach those portions of it which have adhered to the side of the utensil, and add them to the whole.

Distribute the softened butter in small quantities over the paste. Cover, and place in a temperate room until the paste has grown to twice its original bulk. Then add salt; knead the paste, that it may thoroughly absorb the butter, and pat it briskly until it is sufficiently elastic to be taken up in one lump.

At this stage add the sugar, and work the paste again that the former may thoroughly mix with it. The sugar should only be added at the close of the operation; for, since it impairs the cohesiveness of the paste, it would render the latter much more difficult to work were it added at the start.

The Uses of This Paste

If it be for Savarins with syrup, it is customary to sprinkle the previously-buttered moulds with slightly-grilled, chopped or splintered almonds. Take the paste in small quantities at a time, and line the moulds with it to the extent of one-third of their height.

The remaining two-thirds of each mould become covered when the paste rises owing to fermentation.

Proceed in the same way for Savarins which are to be kept dry, for fruit crusts or other uses; but then the sprinkling of the moulds with almond may be omitted.

2372 — Pâte a Baba

Quantities: One lb. of flour; one-half lb. of butter; seven eggs; two-thirds oz. of yeast; one-fifth pint of milk; one-third oz. of salt; two-thirds oz. of sugar; three oz. of currants and sultanas in equal quantities.

Procedure: Proceed exactly as for Savarin paste, and add the currants and sultanas at the last with the sugar. In moulding, a few pipped Malaga raisins may be laid on the bottom of the moulds. As in the case of the Savarin, the paste should only fill one-third of the mould.

2373 — Ordinary Pâte a Choux

Quantities.—One pint of water; eight oz. of butter; one-third oz. of salt; one oz. of sugar; one lb. of sifted flour; sixteen fair-sized eggs, and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water.

Procedure.—Put the water, butter, salt, and sugar in a saucepan and boil. When the liquid boils and rises, take the saucepan off the fire; add the flour, and mix. Return the saucepan to a moderate fire, and stir the paste until it ceases to stick to the spoon, and the butter begins to ooze slightly.

Take the saucepan off the fire; add the eggs, two at a time, taking care to mix each couple thoroughly with the paste before inserting the succeeding couple. When all the eggs have been absorbed, finish the paste with orange-flower water.

2374 — Common Pâte A Choux (for Souffléd Fritters, Gnochi, Potatoes à la Dauphine)

Proceed as directed above, but reduce the quantity of butter to three oz., and the number of eggs to twelve; avoid drying this paste overmuch.

2375 — Ramequins and Gougère Paste

This is prepared exactly like ordinary “Pâte à Choux,” except that:—

1. Milk takes the place of water.

2. The sugar and orange-flower water are omitted.

3. For the quantities given (No. 2373), eight oz. of fresh Gruyère, cut into dice, are added to the paste, after all the eggs have been added to it.

2376 — Pâte a Génoise Fine

Put into a copper basin one lb. of powdered sugar and sixteen eggs. Mix the two; place the basin upon hot cinders or on the hob, and whisk its contents until they reach the “ribbon” stage (see remarks below). Then add the selected aroma (vanilla sugar, orange rind, or liqueur, in the proportion of one tablespoonful of vanilla sugar or orange rind, and one liqueur-glass of liqueur, to the quantities given above), twelve oz. of sifted flour, and eight oz. of melted butter, the latter being carefully poured into the paste without allowing it to bubble. Mix these ingredients with the paste, raising the latter by means of a spatula that it may not get heavy.

Bake it in buttered and dredged moulds.

Remarks.—A preparation of Biscuit or Génoise reaches the “ribbon” stage when it becomes thick, draws out in ribbon-form, and takes some time to level itself again when a spoon is pulled out of it. This state of the paste is also indicative of its lightness.

2377 — Ordinary Génoise Paste for Cutting Up

Quantities.—One lb. of sugar, twelve eggs, thirteen oz. of flour, eight oz. of butter, and the quantity of flavouring thought sufficient.

Proceed exactly as in the preceding recipe, in everything pertaining to the working of the paste.

This paste is baked in buttered and dredged cases, in which it is spread in layers one and one-quarter inches thick, that it may rise to about one and three-quarter inches thick, while baking.

2378 — Lady’s-Finger Biscuit Paste

Stir one lb. of sugar and sixteen egg-yolks in a basin until the preparation has whitened slightly and has reached the ribbon stage. Now add a tablespoonful of orange-flower water; mix therewith twelve oz. of sifted flour, followed by sixteen egg-whites, whisked to a stiff froth. Take care to effect the mixture by raising and cutting the preparation with the spatula, that the former may be quite light.

To Shape the Biscuits.—Put the paste, little by little, into a canvas piping-bag, fitted with a pipe of one-half inch bore. Close the bag; lay the biscuits on sheets of strong paper; sprinkle them with powdered sugar, and rid them of any superfluous sugar by holding the sheets end upwards.

Jerk a few drops of water upon the biscuits by means of a moistened brush in order to assist the beading of the sugar, and remember that a very moderate oven is the best for the effecting of this beading.

2379 — Savoy-Biscuit Paste

Stir one lb. of sugar and fourteen egg-yolks in a basin until the preparation reaches the ribbon stage. Flavour with vanilla sugar; add six oz. of very dry, sifted flour mixed with six oz. of fecula, and finally mix therewith the fourteen egg-whites, which should be in a very stiff froth.

Carefully set the preparation in buttered and fecula-dredged moulds, filling the latter only two-thirds full, and leaving the remaining third to be covered by the rising of the paste while baking.

Bake in a regular, moderate oven.

2380 — Pâte a Biscuit Manque

Stir one lb. of sugar with eighteen egg-yolks in a basin until the preparation is white and light. Add three tablespoonfuls of rum, thirteen oz. of sifted flour, and ten oz. of melted butter, carefully poured away. Mix, raising it with the spatula in so doing.

Set the preparation in special buttered and dredged moulds, filling the latter only two-thirds full with it. Bake in a moderate oven.

2381 — Punch Biscuit Paste

Stir one lb. of sugar, twelve egg-yolks, and three eggs in a basin, until the whole becomes frothy. Aromatise with a bare tablespoonful of orange sugar, the same amount of lemon sugar, and three tablespoonfuls of best rum, and add twelve oz. of sifted flour, ten oz. of melted butter, and the whites of eight eggs whisked to a stiff froth. Mix with the usual precautions, that the paste may not be heavy.

Bake the preparation in buttered moulds, in cases or in rings, according to the purpose it is intended for. Use a moderate oven.

2382 — Ordinary Meringue

Whisk the whites of eight eggs until they are as stiff as it is possible to make them. Sprinkle them with one lb. of powdered sugar, and mix them with the latter carefully, that they may retain all their lightness.

2383 — Meringue à l’Italienne

Cook one lb. of sugar to the large-ball stage, and meanwhile whisk the whites of eight eggs to a stiff froth, so as to have them ready simultaneously with the sugar.

Pour the cooked sugar into the egg-whites, slowly and without a pause, and mix up briskly with the whisk.

2384 — Meringue A L’italienne (Another Recipe)

Mix one lb. of very best powdered sugar and the whites of eight eggs in an untinned copper basin. Place the utensil on hot cinders or on the side of the stove, that the preparation may be lukewarm while in progress.

Whisk the meringue until it is sufficiently consistent to span the members of the whisk. If it is not to be used at once, transfer the paste to a small basin; cover it with a round piece of paper, and set it in the cool.

2385 — Almond Paste

Instead of the antiquated and difficult method of making almond pastes in the mortar, a crushing machine is now used which not only yields a much smoother paste, but also greatly simplifies the work. Almond paste, which consists of almonds, sugar, and egg-whites, in quantities varying in accordance with the purpose of the paste, is now sold ready-made. It has only to be finished with a little sugar, white of egg, and other things, subject to the use to which it is to be put.

2386 — Melting Almond Paste (for Stuffing and Imitating Fruit)

Pass eight oz. of dry, skinned almonds through the crusher.

Place them in the mortar, together with the selected aromatic essence; either a tablespoonful of vanilla sugar or a small glassful of liqueur; and add to them, little by little, working the while with the pestle, one lb. of sugar cooked to the small-crack stage.

With this generic recipe, the melting paste may be varied at will by an increase or decrease in the quantity of sugar.

2387 — Pistachios

These should belong to the pastry-cook’s stock, but, as a rule, they are only prepared just before being served. To skin them, proceed as in the case of almonds.

2388 — Pistachio Paste for Infusion

As soon as the pistachios are skinned, washed, and dried, crush them in the mortar to a very smooth paste, which set in boiled milk, to infuse.

As the colour of pistachios is weak, it is strengthened in preparations containing them with a few drops of vegetable green, while its aroma is thrown into relief with a trifle of vanilla.

2389 — Melting Pistachio Paste

Put seven oz. of pistachios and two oz. of almonds through the crusher; both should have been just skinned. Put the paste into the mortar; add to it two tablespoonfuls of syrup, strongly flavoured with vanilla, followed by eight oz. of sugar, cooked to the small-crack stage, and added to the paste little by little.

Transfer the paste to a marble slab, and finish it by combining three tablespoonfuls of icing sugar with it.

The Preparation and Cooking of Various Pastry Crusts Used in Cookery

2390 — Vol-au-Vent Crust

Prepare the puff-paste as directed under No. 2366. Make the layer of paste of an even thickness of four-fifths inch; set thereon an overturned plate or a saucepan-lid, the size of which should be that intended for the Vol-au-vent, and cut the paste obliquely, following round the edges of the lid or plate with a small knife. Turn the layer of paste over, and set it on a slightly moistened round baking sheet; groove it all round; gild it, and describe a circle on top of it with the point of a knife, one and one-quarter inches away from the edge, to form the cover of the Vol-au-vent. Streak this cover criss-cross-fashion; also streak the body of the Vol-au-vent with the point of a small knife, and bake it in a rather hot oven.

Upon withdrawing the Vol-au-vent from the oven, remove its cover, and clear it of the soft crumb which will be found on its inside.

2391 — Bouchee or Small-Patty Crusts

Bouchées are really small Vol-au-vents. Roll out the paste, making it a good one-third inch thick. Cut this layer with a grooved round cutter three inches in diameter; set the roundels of stamped-out paste on a moistened tray; gild, and make a circular incision in each of them, one-half inch from their edges, either with the point of a small knife or with an even, round cutter dipped in hot water.

Bake in a hot oven, and clear the insides of the bouchées of their crumb on taking them out of the oven. “Mignonnes Bouchées,” which are used as a garnish, are stamped out with a round cutter two inches in diameter, and are slightly thicker than ordinary bouchées.

2392 — Small Hot Patties

Roll out the puff-paste to a thickness of one-sixth inch, and stamp it out with an even round cutter three inches in diameter. With the trimmings resulting from this operation, rolled somewhat more thinly, make an equal quantity of roundels, and lay them on a tray. Slightly moisten the edges of these roundels with a brush; garnish their centres with some forcemeat, rolled to the size of a hazel-nut; cover the forcemeat with the roundels stamped out from the first; press upon these with the back of a round cutter two inches in diameter; gild them, and bake them in a hot oven for twelve or fourteen minutes.

2393 — Croûtes et Croustades

For tartlet crusts, which are put to various uses, take either even or grooved, large or small moulds, subject to the requirements.

Roll out a piece of short paste to a thickness of one-fifth inch; stamp it out with a grooved round cutter of a size in proportion to the moulds used; line the buttered moulds with these roundels of paste; pierce the paste on the bottom of each with the point of a small knife; line with good-quality paper; fill up with lentils, split peas, or rice, and bake in a moderate oven. When the paste is baked, withdraw the dry vegetable used and the paper, and place the crusts in the drying-box, that they may be quite dry; or gild them inside, and set them in the front of the oven for a few minutes.

2394 — Timbale Crust

Butter a Charlotte-mould, and decorate its sides with some sort of design made from noodle-paste trimmings to which a little powdered sugar has been added. Shape a piece of short paste (of a size in proportion to the mould) like a ball; roll it out to a disc; sprinkle it with flour, and fold it in two. Draw the ends gently towards the centre, so as to form a kind of skullcap, and take care to not crease the paste. Make this skullcap of an even thickness of one-third inch, and place it in the mould.

Press it well upon the bottom and sides of the mould, that it may acquire the shape of the latter; line the mould inside with good buttered paper; fill up with lentils or split peas, letting them project in a dome above the edges of the paste, and cover with a round sheet of paper.

Prepare a round layer of paste, one-fifth inch thick, a little larger diametrally than the timbale one. Slightly moisten the inside edges of the timbale; cover it with the prepared disc of paste, and seal it well down to the edges of the timbale, pressing it between the fingers in such wise as to form a crest reaching one-half inch beyond the brim of the mould all round.

Pinch this crest with paste-pincers inside and out.

With a round or oval grooved fancy-cutter stamp out some imitation leaves from a very thin layer of paste, and imitate the veins of the leaves with the back of a knife; or stamp out some triangles of paste; shape them like leaves, and set these (slightly overlapping one another) upon the dome of the timbale in superposed rows.

Finish with three roundels of paste, stamped out with a grooved round cutter of a different size from the first, and make a hole in the centre of each roundel with a round, even fancy-cutter. Gild and bake in a moderate oven. When the outside of the timbale is well browned, detach and remove the cover formed by the leaves. Withdraw the split peas and the paper; gild the timbale inside, and leave it to dry in the front of the oven or in the drying-box.

2395 — Flawn Crust

With short or any other kind of paste prepare a layer one-sixth inch thick, the diameter of which should be one-fourth as long again as that of the flawn-ring used. Raise this layer, and place it upon the previously-buttered flawn-ring, pressing it with the fingers, that it may assume the shape of the mould. Then roll the pin across the ring, in order that the overlapping paste may be cut away; press the thickness of paste that has been formed between the fingers in such a way as to make it project above the edges of the flawn-ring, and form a regular crest. Pinch this crest with the pastry pincers, and set the flawn-ring on a small round baking sheet.

Prick it with the point of a small knife; line its bottom and sides with slightly-buttered, good paper; fill the ring with dry lentils or split peas, and bake in a moderately hot oven for about twenty-five minutes.

Then remove the lentils and paper, as also the ring, and return the flawn to the oven for a few minutes to brown, if it is not already sufficiently coloured.

If the paste be required very dry, place the flawn in the drying-box for a little while, or gild it inside, and set it in the front of the oven for a few minutes.

2396 — The Lining and Covering of Raised and Dressed Pies

The moulds for Raised Pies are oval or round. If they are round, make a layer of patty paste, one-half inch thick, in proportion to the size of the mould.

Sprinkle this paste with flour, fold it in two, and shape it like a skullcap, after the manner described under “Timbale Crust.” It is only necessary to press this skullcap of paste into the buttered mould in order to give it the shape of the latter. If the mould is oval, proceed in the same way, giving the skullcap an oval shape.

When the raised pie is filled, first cover the garnish with a somewhat thin, round, or oval layer of paste, in accordance with the shape of the mould, and seal it well down upon the moistened edges. Then cut away the superfluous paste of the crest, so as to make the latter even and neat, and pinch it outside and in. Raised pies are covered in two ways—either with a layer of puff-paste, or with leaves of paste stamped out with a round cutter or a knife, the veins being imitated with the back of a knife.

In the first case, prepare a layer of puff-paste one-third inch thick, equal in size to the inside of the patty. Drop this layer of paste upon the cover of the pie, after having slightly moistened it; gild and streak it, and make a slit in the top for the escape of steam.

In the second case, prepare the paste leaves as directed above, and lay them on the pie (slightly overlapping one another) in superposed rows, starting from the bottom. On the top of the pie set three or four indented roundels of paste, graduated in size, and stuck one upon the other, each roundel having a hole in its centre for the escape of steam.

Gild and set the pie in the oven.

The baking of raised pies made with raw forcemeat is effected in a moderately-heated oven. Bear in mind that the larger the pie is, the more moderate should be the oven.

Various Custards

Hot Custards

2397 — Crème Anglaise

This custard allows of various methods of preparation which are subject to the purpose for which it is intended. It is the chief sauce for entremets, and whether it be poached in a deep dish or in a mould, it constitutes one of the oldest and best-known entremets. This last kind of custard will be examined hereafter. At present I shall only deal with the variety used either as a sauce or an accompaniment, cold or hot. It is extremely difficult to prescribe fixed quantities for this custard, for the former depend a great deal upon the consumers’ tastes, and, whereas some like a thick custard, others go to the extreme of wishing it just liquid enough to be drunk like any other beverage.

The quantities given below are suited to a custard of medium consistence, but if a thicker custard were desired, the number of egg-yolks would have to be proportionately increased, and vice-versâ.

The quantity of sugar also varies, subject to the consumers’ tastes, and, as the amount used (except in the case of unreasonable excess) does not affect the consistence of the custard, it may be graduated from three to ten or twelve oz. per quart, as taste may dictate. Six oz. of sugar per quart of milk constitutes a happy medium.

English custard admits of all the aromatic essences used for entremets, but the one which suits it best is vanilla. When this last-named flavour or that of filberts, almond pralin, or coffee is used, it is well to put the required quantity to infuse for twenty minutes in the boiling milk, after the latter has been measured off. Chocolate is first melted and then gradually added to the custard before it is cooked. Other aromatic essences or liqueurs are added to the custard after it has been strained.

English custard admits of two methods of preparation:—

Recipe A.—Put twelve raw egg-yolks and three-quarters lb. of powdered sugar in a bowl. Mix the sugar a little with the yolks, and stir the latter briskly with a spatula until they have entirely absorbed the sugar, and the resulting paste is white and has reached the ribbon stage. Then pour one quart of boiling milk into the paste, little by little, mixing the whole the while with a whisk. Then put the preparation on the fire, stirring it with a spatula, and cook it until it approaches the boil and properly coats the withdrawn spoon. Take care not to let it boil, for this would turn the preparation. In any case, when the sauce is intended for hot sweets, by adding a tablespoonful of arrowroot, it may be prevented from turning.

When the custard is cooked, as already explained, strain it, either through a strainer, into a bain-marie, if it is to be served hot, or through a sieve into a large, enamelled basin, where it should be frequently stirred to be kept smooth while cooling.

Custard prepared in this way forms the base of all ice-creams, of which I shall speak later on. It may serve as an adjunct to all cold or hot sweets which allow of a sauce. When, while it is still lukewarm, it is combined with its weight of best butter, it constitutes the delicious butter cream, which is the richest and most delicate of the pastry-cook’s confections.

Finally, if eight melted gelatine leaves per quart of cooled milk be added to it, and it be mixed with twice its volume of whipped cream, it represents the preparation for “Cream Bavarois” and “Russian Charlottes.”

Recipe B.—Melt six oz. of sugar in one quart of milk; boil, and pour the mixture, little by little, over twelve egg-yolks, whisking the latter briskly the while. When this custard is to be moulded, or is intended for a Cabinet Pudding, or some other similar preparation, which must be ultimately poached, strain it as soon as it is mixed, without cooking it.

If, on the other hand, it be intended for an accompaniment, or for the preparation of butter creams or ices, cook it as directed in Recipe A.

2398 — Dished English Custard (to Accompany Cold or Hot Stewed Fruit)

For this purpose English custard is made from only ten egg-yolks per quart of milk. Serve it in shallow silver or porcelain dishes; sprinkle its surface copiously with icing sugar, and criss-cross it with a red-hot iron.

2399 — Frangipan Cream

As in the case of English custard, Frangipan custard varies in the quantities of its ingredients in accordance with its purpose and the taste of its consumers. The recipe given below is an average one, which the reader will be able to modify, in regard to consistence, by increasing or decreasing the amount of flour.

Mix one-half lb. of powdered sugar, two oz. of flour, two whole eggs, and the yolks of five in a basin. Pour one pint of boiling milk over this paste, stirring it briskly the while; add a grain of salt and the selected aromatic essence, and set the saucepan on the fire, that the Frangipan may cook. Do not cease stirring this cream while it is cooking, for it easily burns.

Let it boil a few minutes; pour it into a bowl, and combine three oz. of fresh butter and two tablespoonfuls of dry, crushed macaroons with it. When the whole is well mixed, smooth the surface of the custard with a well-buttered spoon, so that no crust may form while the cooling progresses.

2400 — Frangipan for Fried Cream

Proceed as above, but so apportion the quantities as to obtain a very firm cream. The quantities should be as follows:—Six oz. of flour, six oz. of sugar, ten egg-yolks, four whole eggs, one quart of milk, and one oz. of butter.

When this cream is cooked, spread it in a layer one inch thick on a buttered tray or on a marble slab; carefully butter its surface, and let it cool before using it.

Cold Custards

2401 — Pastry Cream

Mix one lb. of powdered sugar with four oz. of flour and twelve egg-yolks, and dilute with one quart of boiling milk. Cook this cream, stirring it continually the while; and, as soon as it boils, add to it a few drops of orange-flower water and four gelatine leaves, softened in cold water. Boil the cream a few minutes; take it off the fire, and, while stirring it briskly, carefully combine with it twelve egg-whites, beaten to a stiff froth.

N.B.—Some operators call this St. Honoré cream (for, as a matter of fact, it serves chiefly in the garnishing of sweets bearing that name), and give the name of Pastry cream to the same preparation minus the egg-whites and the gelatine. I prefer to abide by the principle given above, and to consider the cream without whisked egg-whites merely as a Frangipan, with which it has many points in common.

Pastry cream may be flavoured according to fancy. The addition of the gelatine is not necessary when the cream is to be served immediately, or when it only has a moment or two to wait. But it is indispensable to prevent the decomposition of the preparation, especially in hot weather, if it have to wait at all.

2402 — Whipped or Chantilly Cream

Nothing could be simpler or more exquisite than this preparation, which is obtained by whipping the best cream (kept fresh for twenty-four hours in ice) over ice. The cream speedily increases in volume and becomes frothy. The operation should then be stopped, lest the cream turn to butter, and there should be immediately added to the former four oz. of powdered sugar (part of which should be the vanilla kind) per quart, and then the preparation should be placed in the cool until required.

N.B.—The addition of a little dissolved or powdered tragacanth gum to the cream allows of a more frothy cream being obtained, but the result is neither as fresh nor as perfect in taste when it is not combined with a sweet or ice preparation.

Various Preparations for Entremets

2403 — Preparations for Pancakes and Pannequets

Preparation A.—Put into a basin one lb. of sifted flour, six oz. of powdered sugar, and a pinch of table-salt. Dilute with ten eggs and one quart of milk, added by degrees. Flavour with one heaped tablespoonful of orange, lemon or vanilla sugar, which should form part of the total weight of sugar prescribed; or with one-eighth pint of some liqueur such as brandy, kirsch, rum, &c., which should form part of the total moistening.

Preparation B.—Dilute one lb. of flour, three and one-half oz. of powdered sugar and a pinch of salt, with nine eggs and a half-pint of cream. Add one-eighth pint of brandy, two and a half-oz. of melted butter and one and a half-pints of milk. Pass the whole through a fine strainer, and finish it with one-eighth pint of orgeat syrup (or almond milk) and three oz. of finely-crushed macaroons.

Preparation C.—Dilute one lb. of flour, three and a half oz. of powdered sugar and a pinch of table salt in nine eggs. Stir the mixture well; add to it a half-pint of raw cream and one pint of milk. Finish with a half-pint of whipped cream, and flavour as fancy may suggest.

Preparation D.—Dilute one lb. of flour, three and a half oz. of powdered sugar and a pinch of salt, in five eggs and the yolks of three. Add one and three-quarter pints of milk and five egg-whites whisked to a stiff froth.

Flavour according to fancy.

2404 — Rice Preparation for Entremets

Wash one lb. of Carolina or Patna rice; cover it with plenty of cold water; boil, and drain it the moment it has boiled. Wash it once more in lukewarm water; drain it, and set it to cook with two pints of boiled milk, two-thirds lb. of sugar, a pinch of salt and three oz. of butter.

Flavour with a stick of vanilla or a few strips of orange or lemon rind, strung together with cotton. When the liquor begins to boil, cover the saucepan; place it in the oven, and let it cook gently for twenty or twenty-five minutes, without once touching the rice the while.

On withdrawing it from the oven, thicken it with the yolks of sixteen eggs, which should be mixed with it by means of a fork in such wise as not to break the rice grains, which ought to remain whole.

N.B.—In some cases, the milk and the sugar may be replaced (for the cooking process) by an equal amount of syrup at 12° (Saccharometer).

2405 — Soufflé Preparations

Soufflé preparations are of two kinds:—

(1) Those prepared with cream, which if necessary may serve for all soufflés; (2) those with a fruit-purée base, which allow of a more pronounced flavour for fruit soufflés than if these were prepared with cream.

Cream-soufflé Preparation for Four People.—Boil one-sixth pint of milk with one oz. of sugar; add a tablespoonful of flour diluted in a little cold milk; cook for two minutes, and finish, away from the fire, with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and two egg-yolks with three whites whisked to a stiff froth.

Soufflé Preparation for a Big Party.—Thoroughly mix half-lb. of flour, half-lb. of sugar, four eggs and the yolks of three, in a saucepan. Dilute with one quart of boiling milk; add a stick of vanilla; boil, and cook for two minutes, stirring incessantly the while.

Soufflé Preparation with a Fruit Base.—Take one lb. of sugar cooked to the small-crack stage; add thereto one lb. of the pulp or purée of the fruit under treatment, and ten egg-whites, beaten to a stiff froth.

Proceed thus: Having cooked the sugar to the extent stated above, add to it the fruit pulp. If the latter reduces the sugar a stage or two, cook it afresh in order to return it to the small-crack stage; and, when this is reached, pour it over the whites.

Dishing and Cooking of Soufflés.—Whatever the soufflés may consist of, dish them in a timbale, or in a special false-bottomed dish, buttered and sugared inside. Cook in a somewhat moderate oven, that the heat may reach the centre of the soufflé by degrees.

Two minutes before withdrawing the soufflé from the oven, sprinkle it with icing sugar, which, when it becomes caramel upon the surface of the soufflé, constitutes the glazing.

The decoration of soufflés is optional, and, in any case, should not be overdone.

Hot Sauces for Entremets

2406 — English Sauce

See the Custard recipe (No. 2397).

2407 — Chocolate Sauce

Dissolve half-lb. of grated chocolate in two-thirds pint of water. Add a tablespoonful of vanilla sugar; cook gently for twenty-five minutes, and complete at the last moment with three tablespoonfuls of cream and a piece of best butter, the size of a walnut.

2408 — Sabayon

Mix one lb. of powdered sugar with twelve egg-yolks, in a basin, until the mixture has whitened slightly. Dilute with one quart of dry, white wine; pour the whole in a narrow bain-marie, which should be placed in a receptacle containing boiling water, and whisk it until it is four times its former size, and is firm and frothy.

N.B.—Sabayon may also be made with milk instead of white wine, and it may be flavoured according to fancy.

2409 — Fruit Sauce

Apricots, red-currants, greengages and mirabelle plums are the best fruits for sweet sauces. Other fruits, such as peaches, William pears, apples, &c., may also be used in the form of light purées or cullises.

2410 — Apricot Sauce

Rub some very ripe or stewed apricots through a sieve, and thin the purée with the required quantity of syrup at 28° (Saccharom.). Boil, skimming carefully the while; take off the fire when the sauce veneers the withdrawn spoon, and flavour according to fancy.

If this sauce is to be used with crusts, a little best butter may be added to it.

2411 — Red-Currant Sauce

Melt some red-currant jelly and flavour it with kirsch.

This sauce may be slightly thickened with arrowroot.

2412 — Sauce Orange

Rub some orange marmalade through a sieve; add thereto one-third of its bulk of apricot sauce, and flavour with curaçao.

2413 — Hazel-Nut Sauce

Flavour some English custard with an infusion of grilled hazel-nuts, and add two tablespoonfuls of moulded filbert pralin per quart of custard.

2414 — Greengage or Mirabelle Sauce

Proceed as for apricot sauce and flavour with kirsch.

2415 — Cherry Sauce

Take the syrup of some stewed cherries, add an equal quantity of red-currant jelly, and flavour with kirsch.

2416 — Raspberry Sauce

Take the required quantity of melted raspberry jelly; thicken it slightly with arrowroot, and flavour with kirsch.

2417 — Strawberry Sauce

Proceed as for No. 2416.

2418 — Thickened Syrups

These accompaniments of sweets, which are commonly used in Germany, have this in their favour, that they are economical; but they should be used in moderation. To make them, take some syrup at 15°, thickened with arrowroot, coloured according to the purpose for which it is required, and flavoured with some liqueur or essence at the last moment.

It is with this kind of sauce that flawns and all other sorts of tartlets are coated in northern countries.

Hot Sweets

Fritters

The numerous fritter recipes for sweets may all be grouped into five leading classes, viz.:—

(1) Fruit fritters.

(2) Custard fritters.

(3) Viennese fritters.

(4) Souffléd fritters.

(5) Sundry other fritters which are more or less like the four former ones without entirely resembling them.

2419 — Class 1. Fresh Fruit and Flower Fritters

Subject to the treatment undergone by them, fruits for fritters are of two kinds: firm fruits, such as apples and pears, and aqueous fruits, such as strawberries, &c.

2420 — Fritters of Fruit With Firm Pulps Ex. Apricot Fritters

Select some apricots that are not over-ripe; cut them in two; sprinkle them with sugar, and set them to macerate for an hour in kirsch, brandy, or rum, subject to the consumers’ tastes. A few minutes before serving, dry the halved apricots, dip them in batter (No. 234), and fry them in hot fat. Drain them on a napkin; set the fritters on a tray; cover them with icing sugar, and glaze them in a hot oven or at the salamander. Dish them on a napkin, and serve them at once.

N.B.—Proceed in precisely the same way for Apple, Pear, Peach, or Banana fritters.

2421 — Aqueous-Fruit Fritters Ex. Strawberry Fritters

Select some large, somewhat firm strawberries; sugar them copiously; sprinkle them with kirsch, and let them macerate on ice for thirty minutes.

It is most essential that the strawberries be well sugared before macerating, because the heat of the fat sours them while the fritters are being fried, and they consequently become tart.

A few minutes before serving, drain the strawberries, dip them in batter (No. 234), and plunge them into very hot fat. Drain them, dish them on lace paper, and sprinkle them with icing sugar, by means of a dredger.

2422 — Flower Fritters. Ex. Acacia-Flower Fritters

Select some blown acacia flowers; besprinkle them with sugar and liqueur brandy, and leave them to macerate for thirty minutes.

Dip them in batter (No. 234); plunge them into plenty of hot fat; drain them; sprinkle them with best sugar and dish them on a napkin.

N.B.—Proceed as above for Elder-flower, Lily, and Vegetable-marrow-flower fritters; but in the case of the last two, the quartered corollæ, alone, are used.

2423 — Custard Fritters or Fried Cream

Custard fritters may be prepared in the three following totally different ways.

1st Method.—Cut up preparation No. 2400 with a round, square, or lozenge-shaped fancy cutter, as taste may dictate. Treat the resulting pieces of custard twice à l’anglaise, using very fine and fresh bread-crumbs for the purpose. Press upon the bread-crumbs with the blade of a knife that they may adhere properly, and fry the pieces of cream in very hot fat. On taking the fritters out of the fat sprinkle them with icing sugar, and dish them on a napkin.

N.B.—Instead of treating these fritters à l’anglaise, they may be dipped into batter and treated as directed in the case of Apricot fritters.

2nd Method.—Prepare a custard as for a “crème renversée” (No. 2639), using only whole eggs, that it may be firm; and poach it in a utensil of a shape which will facilitate the cutting-up of the preparation. When the latter is quite cool, cut it up as fancy may suggest; dip the pieces in batter (No. 234) and plunge them in plenty of hot fat. Drain them on a piece of linen; sprinkle them with icing sugar; glaze them in a fierce oven, and dish them on a napkin.

3rd Method.—Prepare some common-shaped meringues, and keep them very dry.

When they have cooled, open them slightly on top, and, through the hole in each, fill them either with a Bavarois preparation, with some kind of ice-cream, or with a fruit salpicon thickened with stewed apricots or plums. Close the holes with the pieces that were cut out, and place the meringues in the refrigerator for an hour.

2424 — Viennese Fritters

Quantities for the paste of Viennese fritters: one lb. of flour; six oz. of butter; half oz. of yeast; five eggs; half oz. of salt; two-third oz. of sugar; and one-sixth pint of milk. This paste is prepared exactly like Brioche paste (No. 2368).

In any case, as it has to be worked with the rolling-pin, always keep it a little firm.

2425 — Hot Viennese Fritters

Roll out a piece of the paste given above to a thickness of one-fifth inch.

Spread upon it, at regular intervals, small quantities (about the size of a large walnut) either of stewed fruit or jam. Moisten slightly; cover with a second layer of paste, of the same size and thickness as the former; press upon it with the back of a round cutter, so as to ensure the joining of the two layers of paste, and then stamp the whole out with an even cutter two and a half inches in diameter.

Set the fritters on a tray covered with a flour-dusted piece of linen; let the paste ferment for thirty minutes, and then fry them in plenty of hot fat. Drain them; sprinkle them with icing sugar and dish them on a napkin.

N.B.—These fritters may be accompanied by frothy sauces, flavoured with vanilla, lemon, orange, coffee, or kirsch, &c., the type of which is the Sabayon with cream.

2426 — Cold Viennese Fritters

Roll out a piece of the paste prescribed, which should be kept somewhat soft, and stamp it out with a round cutter two and a half inches in diameter. Set half of these roundels of paste on buttered sheets of paper, lying on trays; garnish them either with stewed fruit or jam; slightly moisten their edges; cover them with the remaining roundels of paste, and let the paste ferment for thirty minutes.

A few minutes before serving, grasp the ends of the sheets of paper; plunge the fritters into plenty of hot fat, and withdraw the sheets of paper as soon as the fritters fall from them.

N.B.—In the case of either of these two methods of serving Viennese fritters, the latter, which are served under the name of “fritters à la Dauphine,” may be garnished with fruit salpicons or cream preparations.

Souffléd Fritters

2427 — Ordinary Souffléd Fritters

Put one pint of water, three and a half oz. of butter, a pinch of salt and two pinches of sugar into a saucepan. Boil; take the utensil off the fire in order to add two-thirds lb. of sifted flour, and mix up the whole. Then dry this paste as directed for pâte à choux (No. 2373); and finish it, away from the fire, with seven eggs, added one by one.

Flavour according to taste.

Take this paste in portions, the size of small walnuts; put these portions in moderately hot fat, and gradually increase the heat of the latter, so as to ensure the rising of the paste.

When the fritters are quite dry outside, drain them; dish them on a napkin, and sprinkle them with icing sugar.

2428 — Souffléd Fritters “En Surprise”

Prepare the fritters exactly like the preceding ones. When taking them out of the fat, open them slightly and garnish them, by means of the piping-bag, either with stewed fruit, jam, a very fine, thickened salpicon of fruit, or some kind of cream, especially frangipan or pastry cream.

Various Fritters

2429 — Pineapple Fritters “à la Favorite”

Cut the pineapple into roundels, one-third inch thick; cut each roundel in two; sprinkle the half-discs with sugar and kirsch, and let them macerate for thirty minutes. Then dry them and dip them into a very thick and almost cold frangipan cream, combined with chopped pistachios. Set the cream-coated roundels on a tray, and let them cool completely.

Drain them; sprinkle them with icing sugar; glaze them in a fierce oven, and dish them on a napkin.

2430 — Fritters “à la Bourgeoise”

Cut a stale brioche crown into slices, one-third inch thick, and dip these into fresh, sugared cream, flavoured according to fancy. Drain them; dry them slightly; dip them into thin batter, and fry them in very hot fat.

Drain them; sprinkle them with sugar, and dish them on a napkin.

2431 — Sylvana Fritters

Hollow out some small round brioches, preserving the crusts for covers, and dip them in some thin, sugared and flavoured fresh cream. Then garnish them with a small fruit salpicon with kirsch; cover this with the reserved covers; dip them into thin batter, and fry them in plenty of hot fat.

Drain them; dish them on a napkin, and sprinkle them with icing sugar.

2432 — Fritters “à la Grand-Mère”

Spread upon a moistened tray a layer half inch thick of very reduced, stewed fruit. Cut it up according to fancy; dip the pieces in batter (No. 234), and fry them in plenty of hot fat.

On withdrawing the fritters from the fat, sprinkle them with icing sugar and set them to glaze in a fierce oven.

2433 — Regina Fritters

Shape some lady’s-finger biscuits (preparation No. 2378) into large half-balls, one and a half inch in diameter; bake these in a moderate oven and cool them. Then hollow out these half-balls; garnish them with apricot or some other jam; join them in couples, and dip them so as to thoroughly soak them in some fresh cream flavoured with maraschino.

Drain them; treat them à l’anglaise with very fine bread-crumbs, and fry them in plenty of hot fat.

Drain them; dish them on a napkin, and sprinkle them with icing sugar.

2434 — Minion Fritters

Proceed as above, but substitute for biscuit half-balls soft macaroons, saturated with kirsch syrup. For the rest of the operation, follow the procedure of No. 2433.

2435 — Fritters à la Suzon

Make a preparation of “rice for entremets,” and spread it in a thin layer upon a tray, to cool. Divide it up into discs three and a half inches in diameter; garnish the centre of these with a very stiff fruit salpicon; roll the discs into balls, so as to enclose the salpicon; dip these balls into thin batter, and fry them in plenty of hot fat.

Drain them; dish them on a napkin, and sprinkle them with icing sugar.

Charlottes

2436 — Apple Charlotte

Copiously butter a quart Charlotte-mould. Garnish its bottom with heart-shaped croûtons of bread-crumb, slightly overlapping one another; and garnish its sides with rectangles of bread of exactly the same height as the mould, and also slightly overlapping one another. The croûtons and the rectangles should be one-eighth inch thick, and ought to have been dipped in melted butter before taking their place in the mould.

Meanwhile, quarter twelve fine russet apples; peel, slice, and cook them in a sautépan with one oz. of butter, two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and half the rind of a lemon and a little cinnamon—both tied into a faggot.

When the apples are cooked, and reduced to a thick purée, remove the faggot of aromatics and add three tablespoonfuls of stewed apricots.

Fill up the mould with this preparation, and remember to shape the latter in a projecting dome above the mould; for it settles in cooking.

Bake in a good, moderate oven for from thirty to thirty-five minutes.

2437 — Charlotte de Pommes, Emile Giret

Prepare the Charlotte as directed above, but in a shallow mould.

When it is moulded on the dish, completely cover it with an even coat, half inch thick, of very firm “pastry cream” (No. 2401), and take care not to spoil the shape of the Charlotte.

Sprinkle the cream copiously with icing sugar; then, with a red-hot iron, criss-cross the Charlotte regularly all round; pressing the iron upon the sugar-sprinkled cream.

Surround the base of the Charlotte with a row of beads made by means of the piping-bag, from the same cream as that already used.

2438 — Various Charlottes

Charlottes may be made with pears, peaches, apricots, &c., after the same procedure as that directed under No. 2436. The most important point to be remembered in their preparation is that the stewed fruit used should be very stiff; otherwise it so softens the shell of bread that the Charlotte collapses as soon as it is turned out.

It is no less important that the mould should be as full as possible of the preparation used; for, as already explained, the latter settles in the cooking process.

2439 — Crème à la Régence

Saturate half a pound of “Biscuits à la Cuiller” with Maraschino-Kirsch, and then dip them into a quart of boiled milk. Rub them through a silk sieve, and add eight eggs, ten egg-yolks, two-thirds pound of powdered sugar and a small pinch of table salt. Pour the whole into a shallow, Charlotte mould, and set to poach in a bain-marie for about thirty-five minutes.

Let the mould rest for a few minutes; turn out its contents on a dish and surround the base of the cream with a crown of stewed half-apricots, each garnished with a preserved cherry. Coat the whole with an apricot syrup, flavoured with Kirsch and Maraschino.

2440 — Crème Meringuée

Prepare some “Crème à la Régence” as above, and poach it in a buttered deep border-mould. Poach in a bain-marie; turn out on a dish, and garnish the middle of the border with Italian meringue (No. 2383), combined with a salpicon of preserved fruit, macerated in Kirsch.

Decorate the border by means of a piping-bag, fitted with a grooved pipe and filled with plain, Italian meringue, without the fruit; and set to brown in a moderate oven.

Serve an orange-flavoured, English custard separately.

2441 — Village Custard

Saturate five ounces of dry biscuits with Kirsch and Anisette, and set them in a deep dish in layers, alternated with coatings of stewed, seasonable fruit, such as pears, apples, etc.

Cover the whole with the following preparation: one-half pound of powdered sugar mixed with eight eggs and the yolks of four, and diluted with one and three-quarter pints of milk. Poach in a bain-marie, in the oven.

2442 — Custard Pudding

Custard pudding is a form of the English custard mentioned under No. 2397.

The difference between the two is that for the former whole eggs are used instead of the yolks alone, and that it is prepared according to the second method only. The average quantities for the preparation are:

Six eggs and six ounces of sugar per quart of milk. The custard is cooked in pie-dishes in a bain-marie, which should be placed in the oven or in a steamer.

According as to whether the custard be required milky or thick, the number of eggs is either lessened or increased. In regard to the sugar, the guide should be the consumers’ tastes. If necessary, it may be suppressed altogether, and saccharine or glycerine may be used in its stead, as is customary for diabetic patients.

Custard is generally flavoured with vanilla, but any other flavour suited to sweets may be used with it.

Pancakes. (See Preparations No..)2403

2443 — Convent Pancakes

Pour into a buttered and hot omelet-pan some preparation A, sprinkle thereon some William pears, cut into small dice; cover the latter with some more preparation A; toss the pancake in order to turn it; sprinkle it with powdered sugar, dish it on a napkin and serve it burning-hot.

2444 — Georgette Pancakes

Proceed as for Convent pancakes, but substitute for pear-dice some very thin slices of pine-apple, macerated in Maraschino.

2445 — Gil-Blas Pancakes

Make the following preparation: work three ounces of best butter in a bowl until it acquires the consistence of a pomade. Mix therewith three ounces of powdered sugar, three tablespoonfuls of liqueur brandy, a piece of butter the size of a filbert, and a few drops of lemon juice.

Make the pancakes with preparation C; spread the prepared butter upon them; fold each pancake twice, and dish them on a napkin.

2446 — Pancakes à la Normande

Proceed as for Convent Pancakes, but for the pear dice substitute fine slices of apple, previously sautéd in butter.

2447 — Pancakes à la Parisienne

These are made from preparation B, and are ungarnished.

2448 — Pancakes à la Paysanne

Make these from preparation B (the orgeat syrup and the macaroons being suppressed), and flavour with orange-flower water.

2449 — Pancakes à la Russe

Add to preparation C, a quarter of its volume of broken biscuits saturated with kümmel and liqueur brandy, and make the pancakes in the usual way.

2450 — Suzette Pancakes

Make these from preparation A, flavoured with curaçao and tangerine juice. Coat them, like Gil-Blas pancakes, with softened butter, flavoured with curaçao and tangerine juice.

Croquettes

2451 — Chestnut Croquettes

Peel the chestnuts after one of the ways directed (No. 2172), and cook them in a thin syrup, flavoured with vanilla. Reserve one small, whole chestnut for each croquette. Rub the remainder through a sieve; dry the purée over a fierce fire, and thicken it with five egg-yolks and one and a half oz. of butter per lb. of purée. Let it cool.

Then divide the preparation up into portions the size of pigeons’ eggs, and roll these portions into balls, with a chestnut in the centre of each.

Treat them à l’anglaise with some very fine bread-crumbs; fry them in some very hot fat, and dish them on a napkin.

Serve a vanilla-flavoured apricot sauce, separately.

2452 — Rice Croquettes

Make a preparation as directed under No. 2404. Divide it up into two-oz. portions, moulded to the shape of such fruit as pears apples, apricots, etc.; treat these à l’anglaise, like the chestnut croquettes, and fry them in the same way.

Serve an apricot sauce or a vanilla-flavoured Sabayon separately.

2453 — Various Croquettes

Croquettes may also be made from tapioca, semolina, vermicelli or fresh noodles, etc., in which case the procedure is that of the Rice Croquettes.

The preparation may be combined with currants and sultanas, and the croquettes are served with any suitable sauce.

Crusts

2454 — Croûte aux Fruits

Cut some slices one-fifth inch thick from a stale Savarin which has not been moistened with syrup, and allow two for each person. Set these slices on a tray; sprinkle them with icing sugar, and put them in the oven so as to dry and glaze them at the same time. Arrange them in a circle round a cushion of fried bread-crumbs, and between each lay a slice of pine-apple of exactly the same size as the slices.

Upon this crown of crusts, set some quartered apples and some stewed pears. The pears may be stewed in a pinkish syrup, which, by varying the colours, makes the croûte more sightly.

Decorate with preserved cherries, lozenges of angelica, quartered yellow and green chinois, etc. Fix a small, turned and white or pink pear on the top of the cushion, by means of a hatelet, and coat with an apricot sauce, flavoured with Kirsch.

2455 — Croûte à la Lyonnaise

Prepare the crusts as described above, and coat them with a smooth chestnut purée, flavoured with vanilla; then, cover them with an apricot purée, cooked to the small-thread stage; sprinkle with finely-splintered and slightly-browned almonds, and dish in a circle.

Garnish the middle of the circle with chestnuts cooked in syrup, and pipped Malaga raisins, currants, and sultanas (washed and swelled in tepid water); the whole cohered with an apricot purée thinned with a few tablespoonsful of Malaga wine.

2456 — Croûte au Madère

Dish the glazed crusts in a circle as already described. Pour into their midst a garnish consisting of equal parts of pipped, Malaga raisins, currants, and sultanas, swelled in tepid water and moistened with a Madeira-flavoured, apricot syrup.

2457 — Croûte à la Maréchale

Cut from a stale mousseline brioche, some triangles of the same thickness as the ordinary crusts. Coat them with pralin (No. 2352), and then set them on a tray; sprinkle them with sugar glaze, and dry the pralin in a moderate oven.

Stick a fried-bread-crumb cushion, four inches high, on a dish, and surround it with a salpicon of pineapple, raisins, cherries, and sugared orange-rind, cohered with some stiff stewed apples, combined with a little apricot purée. Set the pralin-coated triangles upright alongside of the salpicon, and surround them with a border of half-pears, stewed in syrup, half their quantity being white and the other pink.

On the top of the cushion, set a small pear, cooked in pink syrup, which fix with a small hatelet, surround the border of half-pears with a thread of apricot purée, flavoured slightly with vanilla, and serve a sauceboat of the same purée separately.

2458 — Croûte à la Normande

Prepare the crusts as indicated under No. 2454, coat them with very stiffly stewed apples, and dish them in a circle.

Garnish their midst with stewed apples, prepared as for a Charlotte, and upon the apples set a pyramid of quartered, white and pink apples, cooked in syrup. Cover with reduced apple syrup, thickened with a little very smooth stewed apples flavoured with Kirsch or old rum.

2459 — Croûte à la Parisienne

Coat the crusts with pralin, as explained under No. 2457, and dish them in a circle. In their midst set some thin slices of pine-apple, the ends of which should rest upon the circle of crusts; in the middle, pour a garnish of various fruits, cohered with an apricot purée, flavoured with Madeira, and coat the circle of crusts with apricot syrup flavoured with Madeira.

2460 — Croûte aux Abricots au Marasquin

Cook some Savarin paste in buttered tartlet moulds. When these tartlets are cooked, hollow them out at the top, taking care to leave a somewhat thick border all round.

Coat them inside with pralin (No. 2352), and dry them in a moderate oven. Then garnish the centre of the tartlets with frangipan cream, combined with filbert pralin. Upon this cream set a stoned apricot poached in Maraschino.

Surround the apricot with small, candied half-cherries, alternated with lozenges of angelica. Serve an apricot sauce, flavoured with Maraschino, separately.

2461 — Croûte Victoria

Prepare a crust after No. 2456, and garnish the centre with candied cherries and glazed chestnuts. Serve an apricot sauce, flavoured with rum, separately.

Omelets

Sweet omelets may be divided into four distinct classes, which are:—

1. Liqueur omelets.

2. Jam omelets.

3. Souffléd omelets.

4. Surprise omelets.

Omelets With Liqueur

2462 — Example: Omelet With Rum

Season the omelet with sugar and a little salt, and cook it in the usual way. Set it on a long dish, sprinkle it with sugar and heated rum, and set a light to it on bringing it to the table.

Jam Omelets

2463 — Example: Apricot Omelet

Season the omelet as above, and, when about to roll it up, garnish it inside with two tablespoonfuls of apricot jam per six eggs. Set on a long dish; sprinkle with icing sugar, and either criss-cross the surface with a red-hot iron or glaze the omelet at the salamander.

2464 — Xmas Omelet

Beat the eggs with salt and sugar and add, per six eggs: two tablespoonfuls of cream, a pinch of orange or lemon rind, and one tablespoonful of rum. When about to roll up the omelet, garnish it copiously with mincemeat, set it on a long dish; sprinkle it with heated rum, and set it alight at the table.

Souffléd Omelets

2465 — Example: Souffléd Omelet With Vanilla

Mix eight oz. of sugar and eight egg-yolks in a basin, until the mixture has whitened slightly, and draws up in ribbons when the spatula is pulled out of it. Add ten egg-whites, beaten to a very stiff froth, and mix the two preparations gently; cutting and raising the whole with the spoon.

Set this preparation on a long, buttered and sugar-dusted dish, in the shape of an oval mound, and take care to put some of it aside in a piping-bag.

Two minutes before withdrawing it from the oven, sprinkle it with icing sugar, that the latter, when melted, may cover the omelet with a brilliant coat.

Flavour according to fancy, with vanilla, orange or lemon rind, rum, Kirsch, &c.; but remember to add the selected flavour to the preparation before the egg-whites are added to it.

Surprise Omelets

2466 — Example: Norwegian Omelet

Place an oval cushion one and one half in. thick of Génoise upon a long dish, and let the cushion be as long as the desired omelet. Upon this cushion set a pyramid of ice-cream with fruit. Cover the ice-cream with ordinary meringue (No. 2382); smooth it with a knife, making it of an even thickness of two-thirds of an inch in so doing; decorate it, by means of the piping-bag, with the same meringue, and set in a very hot oven, that the meringue may cook and colour quickly, without the heat reaching the ice inside.

2467 — Surprise Omelet Mylord

Proceed as directed above; but garnish the cushion of Génoise with coats of vanilla ice-cream, alternated with coats of stewed pears. Cover with meringue and cook in the same way.

2468 — Chinese Surprise Omelet

The procedure is the same, but the vanilla ice-cream is replaced by tangerine ice. On taking the omelet out of the oven, surround it with tangerines glazed with sugar, cooked to the large-crack stage.

2469 — Surprise Omelet With Cherries

Garnish the cushion of Génoise with red-currant ice, flavoured with raspberries and mixed with equal quantities of cherry ice and half-sugared cherries, macerated in Kirsch.

Finish it like the Norwegian Omelet.

On taking it out of the oven, surround the omelet with drained cherries, preserved in brandy, and sprinkle it with heated Kirsch, to which set a light at the table.

2470 — Surprise Omelet Milady: Also Called Milady Peach

This is a surprise omelet, garnished with very firm raspberry ice, in which are incrusted a circle of fine peaches, poached in vanilla.

The whole is then covered with Italian meringue, flavoured with Maraschino, and laid in suchwise that those portions of the peaches which project from the glaze remain bare.

Decorate the surface of the omelet with the same meringue; sprinkle it with icing sugar, and set it to a glaze quickly.

2471 — Surprise Omelet “à la Napolitaine” Otherwise “Bombe Vesuve”

Garnish the cushion of Génoise with coats of vanilla and strawberry ice, alternated with layers of broken candied-chestnut. Cover the whole with Italian meringue prepared with Kirsch, which keep flat and somewhat thick towards the centre. On top, set a barquette of a size in proportion to the omelet, made by means of the piping-bag with ordinary meringue and baked in the oven without colouration. Decorate with Italian meringue, covering the barquette in so doing, and quickly brown the omelet in the oven. When about to serve, garnish the omelet with Jubilee cherries (No. 2566), which set alight at the last moment.

2472 — Surprise Omelet Elizabeth

Garnish the cushion of Génoise with vanilla ice and crystallised-violets.

Cover it with meringue; decorate its surface with crystallised-violets, and treat the omelet as in No. 2466.

When about to serve it, cover the omelet with a veil of spun sugar.

2473 — Surprise Omelet “A L’Islandaise”

Make the cushion of Génoise round instead of oval; set it on a round dish, and garnish it with some sort of ice, which should be shaped like a truncated cone. Cover with meringue; set a small case on the top, made from meringue, as explained under No. 2471, but round instead of oval; conceal all but its inside with meringue, decorating the omelet in so doing, and set to brown quickly.

When about to serve, pour a glassful of heated rum into the meringue case and set it alight.

2474 — Sylphs’ Omelet

Dip a freshly-cooked savarin into a syrup of maraschino, and stick it on a base of dry paste exactly equal in size.

At the last moment, turn out upon this cushion an iced strawberry mousse, made in an iced madeleine-mould, the diameter of which should be that of the bore of the savarin. Cover the mousse with a coat of Italian meringue with kirsch, shaping it like a cone of which the base rests upon the top of the savarin.

By means of a piping-bag, fitted with a small pipe, quickly decorate the cone, as also the savarin, with the same meringue; colour it in the oven, and serve it instantly.

2475 — Various Surprise Omelets

With the generic example given this kind of omelets may be indefinitely varied by changing the ice preparation inside.

The superficial appearance remains the same, but every change in the inside garnish should be made known in the title of the dish.

Pannequets

2476 — Pannequets With Jam

Prepare some very thin pancakes; coat them with some kind of jam, roll them up, trim them aslant at either end, and cut them into two lozenges.

Place these lozenges on a tray, sprinkle them with icing sugar, set them to glaze in a fierce oven, and dish them on a napkin.

2477 — Pannequets à la Crème

Coat the pancakes with frangipan cream, and sprinkle the latter with crushed macaroons. For the rest of the procedure follow No. 2476.

2478 — Pannequets Meringués

Coat the pancakes with Italian meringue, flavoured with kirsch and maraschino; roll them up, cut them into lozenges as above, and set them on a tray. Decorate them by means of the piping-bag with the same meringue; sprinkle them with icing sugar, and set them to colour quickly in the oven.

2479 — Puddings

English puddings are almost innumerable; but many of them lie more within the pastrycook’s than the cook’s province, and their enumeration here could not serve a very useful purpose. The name Pudding is, moreover, applied to a whole host of preparations which are really nothing more than custards—as, for example, “custard pudding.” If both of the foregoing kinds of puddings be passed over, puddings proper which belong to hot sweets may be divided into eight classes, of which I shall first give the generic recipes, from which all pudding entremets given hereafter are derived. The eight classes are:—

(1) Puddings with cream.

(2) Fruit puddings.

(3) English fruit puddings.

(4) Plum puddings.

(5) French and German bread puddings.

(6) English and French paste puddings.

(7) Rice puddings.

(8) Souffléd puddings.

Puddings allow of various accompanying sauces, which will be given in each recipe. The majority of English puddings may be accompanied by stewed fruit, Melba sauce, or whipped cream “à la Chantilly.”

Puddings With Cream

2480 — Almond Pudding

Make a preparation for souffléd pudding (No. 2505), moistened with almond milk. Pour it into copiously-buttered moulds, sprinkled inside with splintered and grilled almonds.

Set to poach in the bain-marie. As an accompaniment serve a sabayon prepared with white wine and flavoured with orgeat.

2481 — English Almond Pudding

Mix to the consistence of a pomade four oz. of butter and five oz. of powdered sugar; add eight oz. of finely-chopped almonds, a pinch of table salt, a half table-spoonful of orange-flower water, two eggs, two egg-yolks, and one-sixth pint of cream. Pour this preparation into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in a bain-marie in the oven.

N.B.—English puddings of what kind soever are served in the dishes or basins in which they have cooked.

2482 — Biscuit Pudding

Crush eight oz. of lady’s-finger biscuits in a saucepan, and moisten them with one pint of boiling milk containing five oz. of sugar. Stir the whole over the fire, and add five oz. of candied fruit, cut into dice and mixed with currants (both products having been macerated in kirsch), three egg-yolks, four oz. of melted butter, and the white of five eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

Set to poach in a bain-marie, in a low, even Charlotte mould, or in a pie-dish, and serve an apricot sauce at the same time.

2483 — Cabinet Pudding

Garnish a buttered cylinder-mould with lady’s-finger biscuits or slices of buttered biscuit, saturated with some kind of liqueur; arranging them in alternate layers with a salpicon of candied fruit and currants, macerated in liqueur. Here and there spread a little apricot jam.

Fill up the mould, little by little, with preparation No. 2639, flavoured according to fancy. Poach in a bain-marie.

Turn out the pudding at the last moment, and coat it with English custard flavoured with vanilla.

2484 — Fruit Pudding

This pudding requires very careful treatment. The custard which serves as its base is the same as that of Cabinet Pudding, except that it is thickened by seven eggs and seven egg-yolks per quart of milk. This preparation is, moreover, combined with a purée of fruit suited to the pudding.

Procedure: Butter a mould; set it in a bain-marie, and pour a few table-spoonfuls of the above preparation into it. Let it set, and upon this set custard sprinkle a layer of suitable fruit, sliced. This fruit may be apricots, peaches, pears, etc. Cover the fruit with a fresh coat of custard, but more copiously than in the first case; let this custard set as before; cover it with fruit, and proceed in the same order until the mould is full.

It is, in short, another form of aspic-jelly preparation, but hot instead of cold. If the solidification of the layers of custard were not ensured, the fruit would fall to the bottom of the mould instead of remaining distributed between the layers of custard, and the result would be the collapse of the pudding as soon as it was turned out.

Continue the cooking in the bain-marie; let the preparation stand a few minutes before turning it out, and serve at the same time a sauce made from the same fruit as that used for the pudding.

English Fruit Puddings

2485 — Apple Pudding

Prepare a suet paste from one lb. of flour, ten oz. of finely-chopped suet, quarter of a pint of water and a pinch of salt.

Let the paste rest for an hour, and roll it out to a thickness of one-third of an inch.

With this layer of paste, line a well-buttered dome-mould or large pudding-basin. Garnish with sliced apples mixed with powdered sugar and flavoured with a chopped piece of lemon peel.

Close the mould with a well-sealed-down layer of paste; wrap the mould in a piece of linen, which should be firmly fastened with string; plunge it into a saucepan containing boiling water, and in the case of a quart pudding-basin or mould, let it cook for about three hours.

N.B.—This pudding may be made with other fleshy fruit, as also with certain vegetables such as the pumpkin, etc.

2486 — Plum Pudding

Put into a basin one lb. of chopped suet; one lb. of bread-crumb; half lb. of flour; half lb. of peeled and chopped apples; half lb. each of Malaga raisins, currants and sultanas; two oz. each of candied orange, lemon and cedrat rinds, cut into small dice; two oz. of ginger; four oz. of chopped almonds; eight oz. of powdered sugar; the juice and the chopped rind of half an orange and half a lemon; one-third oz. of mixed spices, containing a large quantity of cinnamon; three eggs; quarter of a pint of rum or brandy, and one-third of a pint of stout. The fruit should, if possible, have previously macerated in liqueur for a long time.

Thoroughly mix the whole.

Pour the preparation into white earthenware pudding-basins, with projecting rims; press it into them, and then wrap them in a buttered and flour-dusted cloth which tie into a knot on top.

Cook in boiling water or in steam for four hours.

When about to serve, sprinkle the puddings with heated brandy or rum, and set them alight, or accompany them, either with a sabayon with rum, with Brandy Butter (as directed under “Gil-Blas pancakes” but without sugar), or with an English custard thickened with arrowroot.

2487 — American Pudding

Put into a basin two and a half oz. of bread-crumb; three oz. of powdered sugar; three oz. of flour; two and a half oz. of marrow and an equal quantity of suet (both chopped); three oz. of candied fruit cut into dice; one egg and three egg-yolks, a pinch of chopped orange or lemon zest; a little nutmeg and cinnamon, and a liqueur-glassful of brandy or rum.

Mix up the whole; pour the preparation into a buttered and dredged mould or basin, and cook in the bain-marie.

Serve a sabayon with rum at the same time.

2488 — Marrow Pudding

Melt half a lb. of beef-marrow and two oz. of suet, in a bain-marie, and let it get tepid. Then work this grease in a basin with half a lb. of powdered sugar; three oz. of bread-crumbs, dipped in milk and pressed; three whole eggs and eight egg-yolks; half a lb. of candied fruit, cut into dice; three oz. of sultanas and two oz. of pipped, Malaga raisins.

Serve a sabayon with rum at the same time.

Bread Puddings

2489 — English Bread Pudding

Butter some thin slices of crumb of bread and distribute over them some currants and sultanas, swelled in tepid water and well drained. Set these slices in a pie-dish; cover with preparation No. 2638, and poach in front of the oven.

2490 — French Bread Pudding

Soak two-thirds of a lb. of white bread-crumb in one and three-quarter pints of boiled milk, flavoured with vanilla and containing eight oz. of sugar. Rub through a sieve and add: four whole eggs, six egg-yolks, and four egg-whites, beaten to a stiff froth.

Pour this preparation into a deep, buttered border-mould, dusted with bread-crumbs; and poach in bain-marie.

As an accompaniment, serve either an English custard, a vanilla-flavoured sabayon, or a fruit sauce.

2491 — German Bread Pudding

Soak two-thirds of a lb. of brown bread-crumb in one and three quarter pints of Rhine wine, Moselle or beer, containing half a lb. of moist sugar and a little cinnamon. Rub through a sieve and add four eggs, six egg-yolks, five oz. of melted butter, and the whites of four eggs beaten to a froth. Poach in a bain-marie as in the preceding case. The adjunct to this pudding is invariably a fruit syrup.

2492 — Scotch Bread Pudding

Proceed exactly as for No. 2490, but add five oz. of sliced seasonable fruit. Mould and poach in the same way, and serve a red-currant sauce flavoured with raspberries, as an accompaniment.

Paste Puddings

2493 — Tapioca

Sprinkle eight oz. of tapioca into one and three-quarter pints of boiling milk, containing four oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt and three oz. of butter.

Cook in the oven for twenty minutes; transfer the preparation to another saucepan, and add to it six egg-yolks, two and a half oz. of butter, and the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

Pour the whole into a well-buttered cylinder-mould, sprinkled with tapioca, and poach in the bain-marie until the preparation seems resilient to the touch. Let the pudding stand for seven or eight minutes before turning it out. Serve an English custard, a sabayon or a fruit sauce as accompaniment.

2494 — Sago Pudding

Proceed as above, but substitute sago for the tapioca, and sprinkle the inside of the mould with sago. The treatment and adjuncts are the same.

2495 — Semolina Pudding

Proceed as for No. 2493, but use semolina instead of tapioca, and sprinkle the mould with granulated semolina.

2496 — Vermicelli Pudding

Proceed as for No. 2493, but use vermicelli, and sprinkle the mould with bits of vermicelli, which should not be broken up overmuch.

2497 — Fresh-Noodle Pudding

Proceed in exactly the same way as for No. 2493.

2498 — English Tapioca, Sago, and Semolina Puddings, etc.

Whatever be the paste used, it should be cooked in very slightly-sugared milk, flavoured according to fancy, and in the quantities given above. Thicken by means of two eggs per pint of the preparation; pour the whole into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in the oven in a bain-marie.

N.B.—All English puddings of this class are made in the same way, and, as already stated, are served in the dish in which they have cooked.

2499 — Brazilian Pudding

Make the preparation for tapioca pudding and pour it into a mould, clothed with sugar cooked to the caramel stage.

Poach in a bain-marie and serve plain.

2500 — Chevreuse Pudding

This is semolina pudding served with a Sabayon, flavoured with kirsch.

2501 — Rice Pudding

Prepare the rice as directed under No. 2404, and mix with it (per lb. of raw rice) the whites of fifteen eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Mould in buttered moulds sprinkled with raspings.

The cooking and the adjuncts are the same as for Nos. 2493, 2494, etc.

2502 — English Rice Pudding

The quantities for this pudding are: six oz. of rice, one quart of milk (flavoured according to fancy), two oz. of sugar and three oz. of butter. The grains of rice should be kept somewhat firm, but the whole should be rather liquid. Thicken with three eggs; cook the preparation in the oven, in a pie-dish; and on taking the pudding out of the oven sprinkle its surface with icing sugar.

2503 — Rice and Chocolate Pudding

Add two oz. of chocolate to every lb. of the preparation of rice, made after No. 2404, and combine therewith the whites of three eggs beaten to a fairly stiff froth; pour the preparation into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in the oven.

Serve some chocolate custard (combined with its bulk of whisked cream) separately.

N.B.—This sweet may be served hot or cold.

Souffléd Puddings

2504 — Saxon Pudding

Work four oz. of butter to a pomade in a basin. Add four oz. of powdered sugar and four oz. of sifted flour, and dilute with two-thirds pint of boiled milk.

Boil this preparation, stirring it the while; and dry it over a fierce fire as in the case of a panada for a “Pâte à choux.”

Take off the fire; thicken with five egg-yolks; and then carefully mix with it the five whites beaten to a stiff froth. Pour into well-buttered moulds, and poach in a bain-marie.

As an accompaniment serve an English custard or a Sabayon, flavoured according to fancy.

2505 — Almond Souffléd Pudding

Make a preparation as for No. 2504, but use almond milk instead of cow’s milk. Pour the preparation into buttered moulds, sprinkled with splintered and grilled almonds, and poach in a bain-marie.

As an accompaniment serve a white-wine Sabayon flavoured with orgeat.

2506 — Souffléd Pudding, Denise

Finely pound four oz. of freshly-washed and peeled almonds, and add thereto, from time to time, a few drops of fresh water. When the almonds form a smooth paste, add the necessary quantity of water to them to produce one pint of milk. Strain through muslin and slightly twist the latter in order to express all the contained liquid.

Set the saucepan on the fire; boil, stirring the while, and then stir briskly with a spatula until the preparation acquires the consistence of a thick paste and falls from the spatula without leaving any adhering portions. Pour this paste into a basin and combine therewith: first, little by little, two oz. of fresh butter; then, eight egg-yolks, two ounces of finely-pounded almonds moistened with a tablespoonful of kirsch and as much maraschino, and the whites of five eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

This pudding is cooked in a bain-marie in one of the following ways:

(1) In a buttered pie dish. In this case, on taking the pudding out of the bain-marie, sprinkle its surface with icing sugar, and criss-cross it with a red-hot iron.

(2) In a shallow, buttered and dredged, Charlotte-mould.

(3) In fairly shallow, buttered dome-moulds, lined inside with roundels one inch in diameter, stamped (by means of a fancy-cutter) out of a layer of Génoise or a layer of “lady’s-finger-biscuit” preparation, about one-third of an inch thick.

In the two last cases, the pudding is coated with an apricot sauce, mixed with almond milk, and a sauceboat of the same sauce is served separately.

2507 — Lemon Souffléd Pudding

Make the preparation for No. 2504, and flavour it with a piece of lemon rind. The treatment is the same.

Serve an English custard, flavoured with lemon separately.

2508 — Orange, Curaçao, Anisette, and Bénédictine Puddings, etc.

For all these puddings the procedure is the same as for No. 2504, and only the flavour changes.

Accompany each with an English custard, flavoured like the particular pudding.

2509 — Indian Souffléd Pudding

Take some souffléd-pudding preparation and add to it two oz. of powdered ginger, and five oz. of candied ginger, cut into dice. Proceed in the same way as for No. 2504.

As an accompaniment, serve an English custard flavoured with ginger.

2510 — Chestnut Souffléd Pudding

Cook two lbs. of peeled chestnuts in a light, vanilla-flavoured syrup.

Rub them through a sieve, add five oz. of powdered sugar and three oz. of butter to the purée, and dry it over a fierce fire. Thicken it with eight egg-yolks and finish it with the whites of six eggs, beaten to a stiff froth.

Poach in buttered moulds in a bain-marie.

As an accompaniment, serve, either an English custard, or a vanilla-flavoured apricot syrup.

2511 — Mousseline Pudding

Work four oz. of butter and four oz. of powdered sugar to a pomade, and add the yolks of ten eggs, one by one; meanwhile stirring the preparation.

Set the latter on a moderate fire until it veneers the withdrawn spoon; then immediately add the whites of seven eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

Pour the whole into a deep, buttered border-mould, which only half fill, in view of the subsequent expansion of the preparation while cooking.

Poach in a bain-marie for about thirty minutes, and let the pudding stand for ten minutes before turning it out.

As an accompaniment serve a light Sabayon or a fruit sauce.

2512 — Souffléd Pudding à la Régence

Make a souffléd-pudding preparation flavoured with vanilla, and poach it in a bain-marie, in a mould clothed with sugar cooked to the caramel stage. Serve an English custard, prepared with caramel, separately.

2513 — Souffléd Pudding à la Reine

Take some vanilla-flavoured, souffléd-pudding preparation. Take a mould with a central tube; butter it, and besprinkle it with chopped pistachios and crushed macaroons. Set the preparation in the mould in layers, alternated by coats of chopped pistachios and crushed macaroons; and poach in a bain-marie.

As an accompaniment serve an English custard combined with pralin.

2514 — Souffléd Pudding à la Royale

Line the bottom and sides of a buttered Charlotte-mould with thin slices of biscuit spread with jam and rolled up. Garnish the mould with a souffléd-pudding preparation, and poach in a bain-marie.

Serve an apricot sauce flavoured with Marsala, separately.

2515 — Souffléd Pudding Sans-Souci

Copiously butter a mould, and sprinkle its bottom and sides with well-washed currants. Garnish with a souffléd-pudding preparation, combined per two lbs. with one lb. of peeled apples, cut into dice and cooked in butter.

Poach in a bain-marie.

2516 — Souffléd Pudding à la Vesuvienne

Make a souffléd-pudding preparation, and add to it for the quantities given in the original recipe one and a half oz. of tomato jam and the same quantity of pipped Malaga raisins. Poach in a bain-marie in a mould with a central tube.

When the pudding is turned out, surround it with apricot sauce, and pour in the middle some heated rum, which light when serving.

2517 — Roly-Poly Pudding

Proceed as for No. 2361: prepare a firm paste from one lb. of flour, nine oz. of chopped suet, one and a half oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt, and one-sixth pint of water. Let this paste rest for one hour before using it.

Roll it out to the shape of a rectangle one-fifth of an inch thick; spread a layer of jam upon it, and roll it up like a Swiss roll.

Wrap it in a buttered and dredged cloth, and cook it in boiling water or in steam for one and a half hours.

When about to serve, cut the roll into roundels half an inch thick, and dish them in a crown. As an accompaniment serve a fruit sauce.

2518 — Rissoles

The preparation of rissoles for sweets is the same as that for rissoles served as hors-d’œuvres, except that the former are garnished with marmalade or jam, with a fruit salpicon or with stewed fruit, with plain or pralined creams, etc.

The best paste for the purpose is derived from puff-paste trimmings.

The shape of rissoles varies very much. They may be shaped like half-moons, purses, small, round or oval patties, etc.

Rissoles for entremets are also frequently made from ordinary brioche paste, and constitute a variety of Viennese fritters. In this case they are invariably mentioned on the menu as “à la Dauphine.”

2519 — Soufflés

Although soufflés are generally served unaccompanied, some stewed, seasonable fruit, or a macédoine of fresh fruit, may, nevertheless, be served with them. This, of course, only applies to soufflés with a fruit base.

I have already given the formulæ for soufflés (No. 2405); I need now, therefore, only give the peculiarities of each particular soufflé.

2520 — Fruit Soufflé in a Croustade

Line a round, shallow, well-buttered, croustade-mould with a very thin layer of sugared paste. Spread some vanilla-flavoured, stewed apples on the bottom, and upon it lay a garnish of various seasonable fresh stewed fruits—quartered if large. The mould ought now to be half-filled.

Fill it up with a vanilla-flavoured soufflé preparation, and cook it in a moderate oven for about twenty-five minutes.

On withdrawing it from the oven, carefully turn it out on a dish; pour a few tablespoonfuls of heated rum into the latter, and set a light to it when serving.

2521 — Almond Soufflé

Make a preparation of soufflé with cream, but use almond milk instead of cow’s milk, add one and a half oz. of slightly-grilled, chopped almonds, per half pint of almond milk. Dish and cook in the usual way.

2522 — Soufflé With Fresh Almonds

Proceed exactly as above, but use fresh splintered almonds instead of grilled, chopped ones.

2523 — Soufflé With Filbert

Make the soufflé preparation from milk in which two oz. of filbert pralin per one-sixth pint have previously been infused.

Dish and cook the soufflé in the usual way.

2524 — Soufflé à la Camargo

Make a soufflé preparation of tangerines, and another of filberts as above. Dish the two preparations in layers, alternated by “lady’s-finger biscuits,” saturated with Curaçao liqueur.

2525 — Paulette Soufflé

Take vanilla-flavoured, soufflé preparation, thickened somewhat more than the ordinary kind, and add to it five tablespoonfuls of strawberry purée. Serve some well-cooled strawberries, coated with raspberry purée, separately.

2526 — Cherry Soufflé

Prepare a soufflé with Kirsch, accompany it with some stewed stoned cherries, covered with a raspberry purée.

2527 — Strawberry Soufflé

This is a soufflé with Kirsch, accompanied by iced strawberries macerated in orange juice.

2528 — Pomegranate Soufflé “A L’Orientale”

Make a soufflé preparation, slightly flavoured with vanilla. Dish it in layers in a timbale, alternated by “lady’s-finger biscuits” saturated with Grenadine and Kirsch. On withdrawing the soufflé from the oven, cover it with a veil of spun sugar, and sprinkle the latter with small sweets, flavoured with Grenadine, in imitation of pomegranate seeds.

2529 — Java Soufflé

Make the soufflé preparation, but use tea instead of milk, and add thereto one and a half oz. of chopped pistachios per one-sixth pint of the tea.

2530 — Lérina Soufflé

Take some ordinary soufflé preparation, flavoured with Lérina liqueur, which is a kind of Chartreuse, made in the Lérins islands.

2531 — Soufflé With Liqueur

This soufflé may be made, either from the soufflé with cream preparation or from that with fruit, given in the note.

The soufflés made from cream are flavoured with such liqueurs as rum, curaçao, anisette, vanilla, etc.

Those made from fruit are flavoured with Kirsch, Kümmel, etc.

2532 — Lucullus Soufflé

Set a savarin, saturated with Kirsch-flavoured syrup, upon a dish, and surround it with a band of paper, tied on with string, in order to prevent the soufflé from drying during the cooking process.

Make a soufflé preparation with a fruit base, set it in the centre of the savarin, and cook it in the usual way.

2533 — Hilda Soufflé

This is a lemon soufflé, accompanied by fine strawberries, well cooled and coated with a purée of fresh raspberries.

2534 — Soufflé “à la D’Orléans”

Take some cream soufflé-preparation, combined with pieces of Jeanne-d’Arc biscuits (a kind of Rheims biscuit), saturated with peach liqueur and Kirsch, and one oz. each of half-sugared cherries and angelica, cut into dice.

2535 — Soufflé Palmyre

Take some vanilla-flavoured soufflé preparation. Set it in a timbale, in layers alternated by lady’s-finger biscuits saturated with anisette and Kirsch. Cook in the usual way.

2536 — Soufflé Praline

Take some vanilla-flavoured soufflé preparation; add to it two ounces of almond pralin which should have previously infused in milk. When the soufflé is dished, sprinkle its surface with grilled chopped almonds, or crushed, burnt almonds.

2537 — Rothschild Soufflé

Take some cream soufflé-preparation, combined with three ounces of candied fruit, cut into dice and macerated in Dantzig brandy, containing plenty of gold spangles.

When the soufflé is almost cooked, set on it a border of fine strawberries (in season), or half-sugared, preserved cherries.

It should be remembered, however, that the correct procedure demands the use of strawberries in full season.

2538 — Soufflé à la Royale

Take some vanilla-flavoured, soufflé-preparation. Dish it in a timbale in alternate layers with lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated with Kirsch; and distribute thereon such fruits as pine-apple, cherries, angelica and grapes—all cut into dice, and previously macerated in Kirsch.

2539 — Vanilla Soufflé

Take some cream soufflé-preparation, made from milk in which a stick of vanilla has been previously infused.

2540 — Violet Soufflé

Take some vanilla-flavoured soufflé preparation, combined with crushed crystallised violets. When the soufflé is dished, set on it a crown of large crystallised violets, and cook in the usual way.

2541 — Subrics

Into one pint of vanilla-flavoured boiled milk, containing three and a half oz. of sugar, drop four oz. of semolina. Add one and a half oz. of butter and a grain of salt; mix thoroughly, and gently cook in the oven under cover for twenty-five minutes.

Thicken with six egg-yolks, and spread the preparation in layers two-thirds of an inch thick over a buttered tray. Pass a piece of butter over the surface to prevent its drying, and leave to cool.

Then cut up this preparation into rings three inches in diameter.

Heat some clarified butter in a frying-pan; set the rings in it; brown them on both sides, and dish them in a circle. Garnish the centre of each ring with a tablespoonful of red-currant jelly, or very firm quince jelly.

Timbales

2542 — Timbale à la D’Aremberg

Line a buttered Charlotte mould with some fairly firm Brioche paste. Garnish the mould with quartered pears, cooked in vanilla-flavoured syrup, kept rather firm and alternated by apricot jam.

Close the timbale with a layer of the same paste, well sealed down round the slightly-moistened edges, and cut a slit in the middle for the escape of steam. Cook in a good moderate oven for about forty minutes.

On taking the timbale out of the oven, turn it out on a dish, and accompany it with a maraschino-flavoured apricot sauce.

2543 — Bourdaloue Timbale

Prepare a dry paste, combined with four ounces of finely-chopped almonds per one lb. of flour.

With this paste line a buttered timbale mould, and garnish it with various stewed fruits, alternated by layers of frangipan cream. Cover with a layer of the same paste, and bake in a good moderate oven.

When the timbale is turned out, coat it with a vanilla-flavoured apricot syrup.

2544 — Marie-Louise Timbale

Take a stale Génoise cooked in a deep Charlotte mould; press the blade of a knife into it and cut it all round, leaving a base.

Remove the inside crumb in one piece which should resemble a large cork in shape. Cut this crumb into slices half-inch thick; coat each slice with Italian meringue, and, upon the latter, distribute a salpicon of peaches, cherries and pine-apple.

Coat the outside of the timbale with the same meringue, and decorate it; put the slices back inside, and set them one upon the other. Owing to the inserted garnish these slices naturally project above the sides of the timbale; surround them therefore with a border of poached peaches, separated by a bit of meringue.

Put the timbale in a mild oven to colour the meringue, and serve a Kirsch-flavoured peach sauce at the same time.

2545 — Montmorency Timbale

Cook a brioche in a mould of the required size. When it is quite cold, remove all the crumb from its inside, leaving a thickness of three-quarters of an inch on the bottom and sides. Coat all round, by means of a brush, with apricot jam cooked to the small-thread stage, and decorate with pieces of puff-paste in the shape of crescents, lozenges, roundels, etc., colourlessly baked in a moderate oven. When about to serve, pour in a garnish of stoned cherries, cooked in a thin syrup, thickened with raspberry-flavoured red-currant jelly.

2546 — Timbale à la Parisienne

Cook a brioche in a Charlotte-mould, and, when it is quite cold, remove the crumb from its inside as above. Coat the outside with apricot jam, and decorate with candied fruit. When about to serve, pour into it a garnish consisting of peeled and quartered pears, apples, peaches and apricots, cooked in vanilla-flavoured syrup; pine-apple cut into large dice, lozenges of angelica; half-almonds; and raisins, swelled in tepid water. Cohere this garnish with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot purée.

2547 — Timbale à la Favart

Cook a brioche in a Richelieu-mould, and hollow it out and decorate it as above. The garnish of this timbale consists of only whole or halved fruit, and vanilla-flavoured chestnuts; and these are cohered with Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup, combined with one quart of a purée of chestnut remains.

Pour the garnish into the timbale just before serving.

Hot Fruit Entremets

2548 — Apricots (Abricots)

Whether fresh or preserved, apricots used for sweets should always be peeled. When preserved apricots are used, it is well to cook them again before using them, for sometimes they are inclined to be too firm.

2549 — Apricots à la Bourdaloue

Prepare a flawn-crust, and bake it without colouration. Garnish its bottom with a layer of thin frangipan cream, combined with crushed macaroons. Upon this cream set some half-apricots, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and cover them with a layer of the same cream.

Sprinkle the surface with crushed macaroons and melted butter and glaze quickly.

N.B.—The above is the usual procedure, but fruit “à la Bourdaloue” may also be prepared in the following ways: (1) Set the fruit in a shallow timbale, between two layers of cream, the upper one of which should be covered with gratin; (2) set the fruit in a border of rice or semolina, with the same coat of gratin upon the cream; (3) set the fruit in a border of Génoise, combined with apricots.

2550 — Apricots à la Colbert

Poach some fine half-apricots in syrup, keeping them somewhat firm.

Drain them; dry them, and garnish their hollows with “rice for entremets” (No. 2404) in suchwise as to reconstruct the fruit. Treat them à l’anglaise, with very fine bread-crumbs; fry just before dishing, and drain. Stick a small stalk of angelica into each apricot, in imitation of the stems, and dish them on a napkin.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

2551 — Apricots à la Condé

On a round dish prepare a border of vanilla-flavoured, sweet rice, either by means of a knife, or by means of an even, buttered, border-mould.

Upon this border set some apricots poached in syrup; decorate with candied fruit, and coat with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup.

2552 — Apricots à la Condé (2nd Method)

Set a crown of small Génoise roundels on a dish; on each roundel set a fine poached half-apricot (convex side undermost), and set a half-sugared cherry in the hollow of each half-apricot. In the middle of the crown arrange a pyramid of rice croquettes, the size and shape of apricots.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

2553 — Apricots à la Cussy

Garnish the flat side of some macaroons with a layer of smooth fruit salpicon, cohered with an apricot purée; set a fine poached half-apricot on each macaroon, coat with Italian meringue; dish in the form of a crown, and place the dish in a moderate oven for a few minutes to dry, but not to colour, the meringue.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

2554 — Abricots Gratinés

Spread an even layer, one inch thick, of stiff stewed apples or stewed semolina (prepared like rice for entremets) on a dish. Set thereon some fine half-apricots poached in syrup; entirely cover the latter with a somewhat thin preparation of “Pralin à Condé,” sprinkle with icing sugar, and set the dish in the oven to slightly colour the pralin.

2555 — Abricots Meringués

Spread a layer of vanilla-flavoured sweet rice on a dish, and set some poached half-apricots thereon. Cover with ordinary meringue; shaping the latter like a dome or a Charlotte; decorate with the same meringue; sprinkle with icing sugar, and place the dish in the oven in order to slightly cook the meringue.

On withdrawing the dish from the oven, garnish the decorative portions alternately with apricot and red-currant jam.

2556 — Abricots Meringués (Another Method)

Prepare a colourlessly-baked deep flawn-crust. Garnish the bottom either with a layer of frangipan cream or with vanilla-flavoured semolina, or sweet rice. Set on this some poached half-apricots; cover with meringue, smooth the latter on top and all round with the blade of a knife, and decorate with meringue by means of a piping-bag fitted with a small even pipe. For the rest of the procedure follow the preceding recipe.

2557 — Apricots à la Sultane

Prepare a Génoise, cooked in a somewhat deep border-mould, and stick it by means of some apricot, cooked to the small-thread stage, to a base of dry paste of the same size. Coat it all round with ordinary meringue; decorate it with a piping-bag fitted with a small even pipe, and brown it in a moderate oven.

Then garnish the inside of the border with a preparation of vanilla-flavoured rice, combined with a little frangipan cream and some splintered pistachios; taking care to keep the preparation sufficiently stiff to be able to shape it like a dome. Upon the rice set some fine half-apricots, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and sprinkle these with chopped pistachios.

As an accompaniment serve a syrup prepared with almond milk, and finished with a piece of butter as big as a hazel-nut.

Pine-apple (Ananas)

2558 — Pine-Apple à la Favorite

See No. 2429.

2559 — Pine-Apple à la Condé

Macerate in sugar and Kirsch some half-slices of pine-apple. Dish them in a circle upon a border of rice, prepared as directed under No. 2551; decorate with half-sugared cherries and lozenges of angelica, and coat with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup.

2560 — Pine-Apple à la Créole

Cook a pine-apple in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup; cut it vertically in two, and cut each half into vertical, thin and regular slices.

Turn out upon a round dish; decorate the top with large leaves of angelica, and surround the base with bananas poached in Kirsch-flavoured syrup.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup separately.

Bananas (Bananes)

2561 — Bananas à la Bourdaloue

Peel the bananas and poach them gently in a vanilla-flavoured syrup. For the rest of the operation, proceed as directed under No. 2549.

2562 — Bananas à la Condé

Poach the bananas in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then treat them as directed under No. 2551.

2563 — Bananas Meringuées

Poach the bananas in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then treat them as directed under the apricot recipes (Nos. 2555 and 2556); leaving them either whole or cutting them into roundels.

2564 — Bananas à la Norvegienne

Cut a slice of the peel from each banana, and remove the pulp from their insides. Fill the emptied peels, three parts full, with banana ice, and quickly cover the latter by means of a piping-bag fitted with a small grooved pipe, with an Italian meringue flavoured with rum.

Lay the prepared bananas on a dish; set the latter on a tray containing broken ice, and place the tray in a sufficiently hot oven to ensure the speedy browning of the meringue.

2565 — Souffléd Bananas

Cut off a quarter of each banana, and withdraw the pulp from their insides without bursting the peel. Rub this pulp through a sieve; add it to a cream soufflé-preparation; finish the latter with the necessary quantity of egg-whites, and fill the emptied peels with it.

Set the filled peels in a star on a dish, and put the latter in the oven for six minutes.

Cherries (Cerises)

2566 — Jubilee Cherries

Stone some fine cherries; poach them in syrup, and set them in small silver timbales. Reduce the syrup and thicken it with a little arrowroot, diluted with cold water; allowing one table-spoonful of arrowroot per half-pint of syrup. Cover the cherries with the thickened syrup; pour a coffee-spoonful of heated Kirsch into each timbale, and set a light to each when serving.

2567 — Cherries à la Valeria

Prepare some tartlet crusts for sugared paste. Garnish the bottom of each with red-currant ice, combined with cream, and cover the latter with vanilla-flavoured, Italian meringue, laid on by means of a piping-bag. Upon this meringue set the stoned cherries, poached in sugared Bordeaux wine, and arrange the tartlets on a dish.

Lay the dish on a tray containing broken ice, and set the tray in the oven in order to dry the meringue. On withdrawing the dish from the oven, quickly coat the cherries with red-currant syrup; sprinkle the latter with chopped pistachios, and dish the tartlets on a napkin.

2568 — Meringued Cherry Flawn

Line a buttered flawn-ring with fine paste: prick the bottom; garnish with stoned cherries after the manner of an ordinary flawn, and fill up with custard (No. 2397). Cook in the usual way.

On taking the flawn out of the oven, remove the ring, and finish the former like an ordinary meringue-coated flawn.

N.B.—All fruits used in the preparation of ordinary flawns may be similarly prepared for meringue-coated flawns. Only such fruits as strawberries and grapes, which are not cooked with the crust, are unsuited to this kind of preparation.

2569 — Nectarines

Nectarines may be prepared after all the recipes given for peaches. I shall not, therefore, give any recipes which are proper to them. See peaches.

Oranges and Tangerines (Oranges et Mandarines)

2570 — Oranges à la Norvegienne

Cut a slice of peel from the top of each of the oranges, and empty them by means of a spoon. Three-parts fill the emptied peels with orange or tangerine ice, in accordance with the fruit under treatment, and cover the ice with Italian meringue, by means of a piping-bag.

Set the dish containing the garnished peels on a tray covered with broken ice, and quickly colour the meringue at the salamander.

2571 — Tangerines à la Palikare

Cut the tangerines at the top and remove the sections without bursting the peel. Skin the sections raw. Fill the peels with rice for entremets, containing a little saffron; mould some of the same rice in a little dome-mould, and set it upon a carved cushion.

Cover this dome with the tangerine sections; coat the latter with some apricot syrup; and, all round, arrange the rice-garnished peels, opened side undermost.

2572 — Orange or Tangerine Soufflé Righi

Without splitting them, empty the orange or tangerine peels.

Half-fill them with orange or tangerine ice, according to the fruit under treatment, and cover the ice with orange- or tangerine-flavoured soufflé-preparation. Place the dish containing the garnished peels upon a tray covered with broken ice; set in the oven that the soufflé may cook quickly, and allow two minutes for tangerines and four minutes for oranges.

Peaches (Pêches)

2573 — Pêches à la Bourdaloue

Poach the peaches (cut into two) in some vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then proceed exactly as for No. 2549.

2574 — Pêches à la Condé

Nos. 2551 and 2552 maybe applied in every respect to peaches.

2575 — Pêches à la Cussy

Proceed exactly as for No. 2553.

2576 — Pêches Flambées

These may be prepared in two ways as follows:—

(1) Poach the peaches whole in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and set them each in a small timbale. Thicken the syrup slightly with arrowroot, and pour it over the peaches. Add some heated Kirsch, and set it alight when serving.

(2) Poach the peaches as above, and set them on a fresh-strawberry purée. Sprinkle the whole with heated Kirsch, and set it alight at the last moment.

2577 — Pêches Gratinées

Proceed exactly as for No. 2554.

2578 — Pêches Meringuées

Prepare a colourlessly-baked, flawn crust; garnish the bottom of it with frangipan cream prepared with pralin, and upon this cream set whole or halved, poached peaches. Cover with meringue and finish as explained under No. 2555.

2579 — Pêches Maintenon

Take some biscuit, baked in a dome-mould and completely cooled. Cut it transversely into slices, and coat each of the latter with frangipan cream, combined with a salpicon of candied fruit and chopped, grilled almonds.

Join the slices together in suchwise as to reconstruct the biscuit, and cover the latter with Italian meringue. Decorate by means of the piping-bag, and dry in the oven.

Surround the biscuit with a border of fine half-peaches poached in a vanilla-flavoured syrup.

2580 — Pêches à la Vanille

Poach the halved or whole peaches in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and set them in a timbale. Cover them to within half their height with the syrup used in poaching, thickened with arrowroot slightly tinted with pink, and combined with vanilla cream.

Pears (Poires)

2581 — Poires à la Bourdaloue

If the pears be of medium size, halve them; if they are large, quarter them. Carefully trim the sections. Cook the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and for the rest of the operation follow No. 2549.

The remarks appended to No. 2549 apply equally to pears and to all fruit prepared according to the particular recipe referred to.

2582 — Poires à la Condé

Very small pears turned with great care are admirably suited to this entremet. If they are of medium size, halve them. Cook them in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and dish them on a border of rice as directed under No. 2551.

2583 — Poires à l’Impératrice

Quarter and properly trim the pears, and cook them in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Dish them in a shallow timbale between two layers of vanilla-flavoured rice for entremets, combined with a little frangipan cream.

Sprinkle the upper layer with crushed macaroons and melted butter, and set the gratin to form.

2584 — Poires à la Parisienne

Bake a Génoise base in a flawn-ring, and, when it is almost cold, saturate it with Kirsch-flavoured syrup.

In the middle of this base set a little dome of vanilla-flavoured rice, and surround it with pears, cooked in syrup and set upright. Border them with a thread of ordinary meringue, squeezed from a piping-bag, fitted with a fair-sized, grooved pipe; by the same means make a fine rosette of meringue on top of the dome, and bake this meringue in a mild oven.

On taking the dish out of the oven, glaze the pears with a brush dipped in rather stiff apricot-syrup, and surround them with a border of half-sugared cherries.

2585 — Poires à la Sultane

Halve or quarter the pears; trim them well, and cook them in a vanilla-flavoured syrup.

For the rest of the operation follow No. 2557.

2586 — Poires à la Régence

Turn the pears; cook them whole in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool in the syrup. When they are cold cut them in two lengthwise, slightly hollow out the inside of each half; garnish the hollow with rice for entremets, combined with a quarter of its weight of frangipan cream and a fine salpicon of candied fruit, macerated in Kirsch.

Join the two halves of each pear, and treat them à l’anglaise with very fine bread-crumbs.

Fry them at the last moment, and, on taking them out of the fat, stick an angelica stalk into each. Dish them on a napkin, and serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

2587 — Timbale de Poires à la Valenciennes

Two-thirds garnish a buttered Charlotte-mould with Savarin paste. Let the paste rise by fermentation; bake it, and let it cool.

Remove the top which acts as a cover, and put it aside; then remove all the crumb from the inside, leaving only the outside crust, and smear the latter with apricot syrup. Decorate with alternate bands of sugar grains and chopped, very green pistachios.

Treat the cover with apricot syrup and decorate it in the same way. Quarter some “Duchesse,” “Beurre,” “Doyenne” or other creamy pears; peel them; cut them into somewhat thick slices, and cook them in butter after the manner of Pommes à Charlotte. When the pears are well cooked, mix with them a quarter of their weight of apricot jam, and flavour with vanilla liqueur.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

Apples (Pommes)

2588 — Apple Fritters

Take some russet apples, which are the best for the purpose, and make a hole through their centres with a tube three-quarters of an inch in diameter, to remove the core and the pips. Peel them and cut them into roundels one-third of an inch thick, and macerate them for twenty minutes in powdered sugar and brandy or rum.

A few minutes before serving, dry them slightly; dip the roundels into thin batter, and plunge them into plenty of hot fat. Drain them, set them on a tray, sprinkle them with icing sugar, glaze them quickly, and dish them on a napkin.

2589 — Apples With Butter

Core some gray Calville or russet apples by means of the tube-cutter; peel them and parboil them for two minutes in boiling water, containing a little lemon juice. Then set them in a buttered sautépan; add a few tablespoonfuls of vanilla-flavoured syrup, and cook them under cover in the oven. Dish them on little, round, brioche croûtons, glazed in the oven, and fill the hollow with butter worked with an equal weight of powdered sugar, and mixed with a little brandy.

Cover the apples with their own syrup, slightly thickened with apricot purée.

2590 — Pommes à la Bonne-Femme

Core some russet apples with the tube-cutter, and slightly cut them all round.

Dish them, fill the hollow of each with butter and powdered sugar mixed; pour a little water into the dish, and gently cook the apples in the oven.

Serve these apples as they stand.

2591 — Pommes à la Bourdaloue

Quarter, peel and trim the apples, and cook them in vanilla-flavoured syrup, keeping them somewhat firm. Proceed for the rest of the operation as directed under No. 2549.

2592 — Pommes en Charlotte

See No. 2436.

2593 — Pommes à la Châtelaine

Take some medium-sized apples, and prepare them like those of No. 2590. Set them on a buttered dish; fill the hollow in each with a salpicon of half-sugared cherries, cohered with apricot purée; cover with thin, frangipan cream; sprinkle with crushed biscuits and macaroons and melted butter, and set the gratin to form in a fierce oven.

2594 — Pommes à la Chevreuse

On a dish, set a cushion of a preparation for semolina croquettes. All round arrange a close border of quartered apples cooked in vanilla-flavoured syrup; garnish the centre with a salpicon of candied fruit and raisins, cohered with an apricot purée, and cover with a thin coat of semolina.

Cover the whole with ordinary meringue, shaped like a dome; sprinkle some chopped pistachios upon the latter; dredge with icing sugar, and set to brown in a mild oven.

On taking the dish out of the oven deck the top of the dome, with a rosette of elongated angelica lozenges; place a small apple, cooked in pink syrup, in the middle of the rosette, and surround the base of the entremet with a circle of alternated white and pink, quartered apples.

2595 — Pommes à la Condé

Poach some fine, peeled and trimmed apples in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Dish them on a border of rice, decorated with cherries and angelica, as explained under No. 2551.

2596 — Pommes Gratinées

Set the quartered apples, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, upon a base of minced apples prepared as for a Charlotte and kept somewhat stiff. Cover with fairly thin pralin à Condé; sprinkle with icing sugar, and place the dish in a mild oven, that the pralin may dry and colour slightly.

2597 — Pommes Meringuées

Set the quartered apples, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, upon a base of rice for croquettes, or of a mince as for a Charlotte. Cover with ordinary meringue, and smooth the latter, giving it the shape of a dome or a Charlotte; decorate with the same meringue; sprinkle with icing sugar, and bake and brown in a mild oven.

2598 — Pommes à la Moscovite

Take some well-shaped apples, uniform in size; trim to within two-thirds of their height, and withdraw the pulp from their insides in suchwise as to make them resemble a kind of cases.

Poach these cases in a thin syrup, keeping the pulp somewhat firm; drain them well, and set them on a dish.

Garnish them, one-third full, with a purée made from the withdrawn pulp, and fill them up with a Kümmel-flavoured, apple-soufflé preparation.

Cook in a mild oven for twenty minutes.

2599 — Pommes à la Parisienne

Proceed exactly as for No. 2584.

2600 — Pommes à la Portugaise

Make cases of the apples as under No. 2598, and poach them in the same way, keeping them somewhat firm.

Garnish them with stiff frangipan cream, combined with grated orange rind, crushed macaroons, and currants and sultanas (both washed and swelled in a Curaçao-flavoured, lukewarm syrup).

Dish these garnished apples on a base of semolina-croquette preparation, and set them in the oven for ten minutes. On taking them out of the oven, coat their surface with melted red-currant jelly, combined with a fine julienne of well-parboiled orange-zest.

2601 — Rabotte de Pommes Ou Douillon Norman

Prepare the apples like those “à la Bonne-femme,” and enclose each in a layer of fine, short paste. Cover each rabotte with an indented roundel of the same paste; gild; streak, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes.

2602 — Pommes Irène

Select some nice apples; peel them, and cook them in syrup, keeping them somewhat firm. When they are cold, carefully withdraw their pulp, that they may form a sort of cases.

Rub the pulp through a sieve, sugar it with vanilla sugar, and spread a layer of it on the bottom of each apple. Fill up the apple-cases with vanilla ice, combined with a purée of cooked plums; the proportions being one-third of the latter to one of the former.

Cover this ice with Kirsch-flavoured Italian meringue; set the latter to colour quickly, and serve instantly.

2603 — Flan de Pommes Chaud Ninon

Prepare a colourlessly-baked flawn crust. Garnish it with apples stewed as for a Charlotte, and shape these in the form of a dome. Upon these stewed apples set pink and white quartered apples, alternating the latter regularly; and, by means of a brush delicately coat these quarters of apple with some reduced white syrup.

2604 — Flan de Pommes à la Bateliere

Line a flawn-ring with some short paste, and garnish it with apples, stewed as for a Charlotte.

Cover the apples with a dome of somewhat creamy rice for entremets, combined with the whites of four eggs (beaten to a stiff froth) per lb. of cooked rice.

Bake the flawn in the usual way, and, on taking it out of the oven, sprinkle it copiously with icing sugar, and glaze with a red-hot iron.

Various Hot Entremets

2605 — Mince Pies

Constituents.—One lb. of chopped suet; one and one-third lbs. of cold, cooked fillet of beef, cut into very small dice; one lb. of pipped raisins; one lb. of currants and an equal quantity of sultanas; one lb. of candied rinds; half lb. of peeled and chopped raw apples; the chopped zest and the juice of an orange; two-thirds oz. of allspice; one-sixth pint of brandy; and the same measure of Madeira and rum.

Thoroughly mix the whole; pour it into an earthenware jar; cover the latter, and let the preparation macerate for a month.

Preparation.—Line some deep, buttered tartlet moulds with ordinary short paste; garnish them with the above preparation; cover with a thin layer of puff-paste, having a hole in its centre; seal down this layer, gild, and bake in a hot oven.

2606 — Célestine Omelet

Make an omelet from two eggs, and garnish it either with cream, stewed fruit or jam. Make a somewhat larger omelet, and stuff it with a different garnish from the one already used; enclose the first omelet in the second, and roll the latter up in the usual way. Sprinkle with icing sugar, and glaze in the oven or with a red-hot iron.

2607 — Eggs à la Religieuse

Bake a somewhat deep flawn-crust without colouration, and have it of a size in proportion to the number of eggs it has to contain. Coat it inside with a layer of pralin, and dry the latter well in a mild oven.

Meanwhile poach the required number of fresh eggs in boiling milk, sugared to the extent of a quarter lb. per quart, and keep them somewhat soft. Drain them, and set them in the crust. Between each egg place a small slice of pine-apple, cut to the shape of a cock’s comb. Thicken the poaching-milk with five eggs and six egg-yolks per quart; pass it through a strainer: pour the preparation over the eggs, and put the flawn in a mild oven, that the cream may be poached and slightly coloured.

2608 — Pain Perdu or Gilded Crust

Cut some slices one-half inch thick from a brioche or a stale loaf and dip them in cold sugared and vanilla-flavoured milk. Drain the slices; dip them in some slightly-sugared beaten eggs, and place them in a frying-pan containing some very hot clarified butter. Brown them on both sides; drain them; sprinkle them with vanilla sugar, and dish them on a napkin.

2609 — Fruit Suprême à la Gabrielle

Prepare (1) a border of apples, stewed as for a Charlotte, thickened with eggs, and poached in a buttered and ornamented border mould.

(2) A macédoine of fruit, the quantity of which should be in proportion to the capacity of the mould and consisting of quartered pears, cooked in syrup; pine-apple, cut into large lozenges; half-sugared cherries; angelica, stamped into leaf-shapes by means of the fancy-cutter; and currants and sultanas, swelled in syrup. Set all these fruits in a sautépan.

To every pint of the pear-syrup add one lb. of sugar, and cook the mixture to the small-ball stage. This done, reduce it by adding one-sixth pint of very thick almond milk; pour this over the fruit, and simmer very gently for ten minutes. Turn out the border of apples, poached in a bain-marie, upon a dish, and surround it with a border of candied cherries. Complete the macédoine away from the fire with a little very best butter; pour it into the border, and sprinkle on it some peeled and finely-splintered almonds.

2610 — Schaleth à la Juive

Line a greased iron saucepan, or a large mould for “Pommes Anna,” with a thin layer of ordinary noodle paste, and fill it up with the following preparation:—For a utensil large enough to hold one and a half quarts:—one and three quarter lbs. of stiffly stewed russet apples; one and a quarter lbs. in all of pipped Malaga raisins, currants, and sultanas (swelled in tepid water) in equal quantities; the finely chopped half-zests of an orange and a lemon; a mite of grated nutmeg; four oz. powdered sugar; four whole eggs and the yolks of six; and a quarter of a pint of Malaga wine. Mix the whole well, in advance.

Cover with a layer of noodle paste; seal the latter well down round the edges; gild, and make a slit in the top for the escape of steam. Bake it in a moderate oven for fifty minutes, and let it rest ten minutes before turning it out.

2611 — English Tarts

These tarts are made in deep pie or pastry-dishes. Whatever be the fruit used, clean it, peel it, or core it, according to its nature. Some fruits are sliced while others are merely quartered or left whole.

Set them in the dish, to within half inch of its brim; sprinkle them with moist or powdered sugar, and (in the case of fruit with firm pulps like apples) with a few tablespoonfuls of water.

This addition of water is optional and, in any case, may be dispensed with for aqueous fruits. First cover the edges of the dish, which should be moistened slightly, with a strip of short paste, an inch wide. Then cover the dish with a layer of puff-paste, which seal down well to the strip of paste, already in position and slightly moistened for the purpose. With a brush moisten the layer of paste constituting the cover of the tart; sprinkle it with sugar, and set the tart to bake in a moderate oven.

All English tarts are made in this way, and all fruits may be used with them even when, as in the case of gooseberries, they are green.

Accompany these tarts by a sauceboat of raw-cream or by a custard pudding (No. 2406).

Cold Sweets

2612 — Sauces and Accompaniments of Cold Sweets

Cold sweets allow of the following sauces:—

(1) English Custard (2397), flavoured according to fancy.

(2) Syrups of apricot, of mirabelle plums, of greengages, of red-currant, &c., the particular flavour of which should always be intensified by the addition of a liqueur in keeping with the fruit forming the base of the syrup. Kirsch and Maraschino are admirably suited to this purpose.

(3) Purées of fresh fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, red-currants, etc., combined with a little powdered sugar, and used plain or mixed with a little whipped cream.

(4) Chantilly Cream, flavoured as fancy may suggest.

Finally, certain entremets allow of the following sauce:—

2613 — Cherry Sauce

Gently melt one lb. of raspberry-flavoured red-currant jelly. Pour it into a cold basin, and add to it an equal quantity of freshly-prepared cherry juice, the juice of two blood-oranges, a little powdered ginger, and a few drops of carmine; the latter with the view of giving the preparation a sufficiently strong and distinctive colour. Finally add a quarter of a lb. of half-sugared cherries, softened in a tepid, Kirsch-flavoured syrup.

Bavarois

These are of two kinds:—

(1) Bavarois with cream, and (2) Bavarois with fruit.

2614 — Cream Bavarois

Preparation: Work one lb. of castor sugar with fourteen egg-yolks in a saucepan, dilute with a pint and a half of boiled milk, in which a stick of vanilla has previously been infused, and two-thirds of an oz. of gelatine dipped in cold water.

Put the preparation on a mild fire until it properly veneers the withdrawn spoon, and do not let it boil. Pass it through the strainer into an enamelled basin; let it cool, stirring it from time to time; and, when it begins to thicken, add one and a half pints of whipped cream, three oz. of powdered sugar, and two-thirds oz. of vanilla sugar.

2615 — Bavarois aux Fruits

Constituents.—One pint of fruit purée, diluted with one pint of syrup at 30° (saccharom.). Add the juice of three lemons, one oz. of dissolved gelatine, strained through linen, and one pint of whipped cream. The preparation for fruit Bavarois may be combined with fruit of the same nature as that used for the purée; and this fruit may be added raw in the case of strawberries, raspberries, red-currants, etc., and poached in the case of pulpy fruits, such as pears, peaches, apricots, etc.

2616 — The Moulding and Dishing of Bavarois

Bavarois are generally moulded in fancy moulds fitted with a central tube, slightly greased with sweet almond oil. When they are greased they are incrusted in broken ice after the preparation has been covered with a round sheet of white paper.

When about to serve, the mould is quickly plunged into tepid water, wiped, and turned out upon a dish, which may or may not be covered with a folded napkin.

Instead of oiling the moulds they may be covered with a thin coat of sugar cooked to the caramel stage, which besides making the Bavarois sightly, also gives it an excellent taste. Another very advisable method is that of serving the Bavarois in a deep silver timbale or dish, surrounded with ice. In this case, the entremet not having to be turned out, the preparation does not need to be so cohesive, and is therefore much more delicate.

When the Bavarois is served after this last method it is sometimes accompanied by stewed fruit or a Macédoine of fresh fruit; though, in reality, these fruit adjuncts are better suited to cold puddings, which, in some points, are not unlike Bavarois.

Finally, when the Bavarois is moulded, it may be decorated, just before being served, with Chantilly cream laid on by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe.

2617 — Bavarois Clermont

Take some vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation combined with three oz. of candied chestnut purée and three oz. of candied chestnuts, broken into small pieces, per pint of the preparation.

Having turned out the Bavarois, surround it with a crown of fine candied chestnuts.

2618 — Bavarois Diplomate

Clothe a timbale mould with a layer of vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation. Fill it with chocolate and strawberry Bavarois preparations, spread in alternate and regular layers.

2619 — Bavarois My Queen

Clothe a Bavarois mould with a preparation of slightly-sugared raw cream, combined with dissolved gelatine. Then fill up the mould with a Bavarois preparation, made from strawberry purée and combined with large strawberries, macerated in Kirsch. When the entremet is turned out surround it with a border of large strawberries, also macerated in sugar and Kirsch.

2620 — Bavarois à la Religieuse

Clothe a mould with some chocolate dissolved in a syrup containing a somewhat large proportion of gelatine. Garnish the inside of the mould with a vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation, made from plain instead of whipped cream.

2621 — Bavarois Rubanné

This kind of Bavarois is made from differently-coloured and differently-flavoured preparations, spread in alternate layers in the mould.

It is therefore governed by no hard and fast rules, and every kind of Bavarois preparation may be used.

2622 — Various Cream Bavarois

Almond, anisette, filbert, coffee, chocolate, Kirsch, fresh walnut, orange, and violet Bavarois, &c., may be prepared after No. 2614; the flavour alone undergoing any change.

2623 — Various Fruit Bavarois

After the generic recipe, Bavarois may be prepared from pine-apple, apricots, strawberries, raspberries, melon, etc.

2624 — Blanc-Mange

Blanc-mange is scarcely ever served nowadays, and this is a pity; seeing that, when it is well prepared, it is one of the best entremets that can be set before a diner. Blanc-mange, as it is prepared in England, is quite different from that generally served; but it is nevertheless an excellent and very wholesome entremet, and that is why I have given its recipe below.

As a matter of fact, in order to justify its name, blanc-mange ought always to be beautifully white; but, for a long time since, the compound word has lost its original meaning. The adjective and noun composing it have fused one with the other to form a single generic title, which may now be applied with equal propriety to both coloured and white preparations; and the verbal error is so old, dating as it does from pre-Carême times, that it would be futile to try and correct it.

2625 — French Blanc-Mange

Preparation.—Skin one lb. of sweet almonds and four or five bitter almonds, and soak them well in fresh water that they may be quite white.

Pound them as finely as possible; adding to them the while (in spoonfuls at a time) one pint of water. Strain the whole through a strong towel, twisting the latter tightly; melt one lb. of loaf-sugar in the resulting milk (about one and half pints); add a bare oz. of gelatine dissolved in tepid syrup; strain the whole through muslin, and flavour according to taste.

Moulding:—Mould the blanc-mange in oiled moulds fitted with centre-tubes as for Bavarois. Incrust them in ice that their contents may set, and proceed for the turning-out as already directed.

N.B.—For the preparation of almond milk, modern Cookery has substituted for the procedure given above, which is antiquated, another which consists in pounding the almonds with only a few table-spoonfuls of water and some very thin cream.

2626 — Blanc-Mange With Fruit and Liqueurs

All fruits, reduced to purées, may serve in the preparation of blanc-manges, and the apportionment of the ingredients should be as follows:—the purée of the selected fruit and the preparation given above (including the same amount of gelatine) should be mixed in equal quantities.

These blanc-manges take the name of the fruit with which they are prepared, i.e.: strawberries, raspberries, apricots, peaches, etc. They may also be prepared with liqueurs, which should be in the proportion of one liqueur glassful to one quart of the preparation. The best liqueurs for the purpose are Kirsch, Maraschino and Rum.

Blanc-manges are also made from chocolate and coffee, although the flavour of the latter does not blend so well with that of almonds as do the other products.

2627 — Blanc-Manges “Rubannés”

Prepare these as directed under No. 2621, spreading the differently flavoured and coloured blanc-mange preparations in alternate even and regular layers.

N.B.—Blanc-mange preparations may also be dished in silver timbales, in good china cases, or in deep dishes. By this means, to the great improvement of the preparation, the gelatine may be reduced to a minimum quantity, just enough to ensure the setting of the blanc-mange and no more. And the thing is quite possible inasmuch as there is no question of turning out the entremet.

In his book “The Parisian Cook,” Carême recommends the addition to the Blanc-mange of a quarter of its volume of very fresh, good cream; and the advice, coming as it does from such an authoritative source, is worth following.

2628 — English Blanc-Mange

Boil one quart of milk, containing four oz. of sugar, and pour it over a quarter of a lb. of corn-flour diluted with half a pint of cold milk; stirring briskly the while.

Smooth the preparation with the whisk, and cook it over an open fire for a few minutes, without ceasing to stir.

On taking it off the fire, flavour it according to taste; and pour it, very hot, into moulds previously moistened with syrup, that the mouldings may turn out glossy and smooth.

Let the contents of the moulds set; turn them out, and serve them very cold either plain or with an accompaniment of stewed fruit.

Charlottes

2629 — Charlotte à l’Arlequine

Line the bottom of a Charlotte mould with a round piece of paper, and garnish the sides with upright pieces of Génoise, glazed white, pink and pale-green; alternating the colours and pressing the uprights snugly one against the other. Meanwhile, take some strawberry, chocolate, pistachio and apricot Bavarois preparations, and let them set in flawn-rings, lying on pieces of oiled paper.

Cut the Bavarois preparations into large dice, and mix them with an ordinary, and somewhat liquid, cream Bavarois preparation. Pour the whole into the mould, and leave to cool. When about to serve, turn out the Charlotte; remove the piece of paper and replace it by a thin Génoise top, glazed with “fondant” and decorated with candied fruit.

2630 — Charlotte Carmen

Line the Charlotte with gaufrettes, and garnish it with the following preparation:—eight oz. of stewed tomatoes; four oz. of stewed red-capsicums, a pinch of powdered ginger, three oz. of candied ginger cut into dice, the juice of three lemons, half a pint of hot syrup at 32° (saccharom.), and five dissolved gelatine leaves.

Mix up the whole, and, when the preparation begins to thicken, add to it one and three-quarter pints of whisked cream.

2631 — Charlotte à la Chantilly

Prepare the Charlotte with gaufrettes, stuck directly upon a round base of dry paste, either with apricot jam cooked to the small-thread stage or with sugar cooked to the small-crack stage. As a help, a Charlotte mould may be used for this operation; it may be laid on the dry-paste base and removed when the gaufrettes are all stuck.

Garnish with whisked, sugared and vanilla-flavoured cream built up in pyramid-form, and decorate its surface, by means of a spoon, with the same cream, slightly tinted with pink.

2632 — Baquet et Panier à la Chantilly

A “Baquet” (bucket) is made with lady’s-finger biscuits, well trimmed and stuck upon a base of dry paste with sugar cooked to the large-crack stage.

In the middle, and on either side of the baquet, set a biscuit, somewhat higher than the rest, with a hole in its top end, cut by means of a small round cutter; and surround the baquet with small threads of chocolate-flavoured almond paste, in imitation of iron hoops.

The baquet and the panier are garnished with the same cream as the Chantilly Charlotte, and are finished in the same way, with a decoration of pink-tinted cream.

2633 — Charlotte Montreuil

Line the bottom and sides of the mould with lady’s-finger biscuits. Garnish with a Bavarois preparation consisting of one pint of peach purée per quart of English custard, and the usual quantity of whisked cream.

Add some very ripe, sliced and sugared peaches, on putting the preparation into the mould.

2634 — Opera Charlotte

Line a mould with Huntley and Palmer’s sugar wafers and garnish it with a vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation, combined with one-quarter of its bulk of a smooth purée of candied chestnuts, and a salpicon of candied fruit, macerated in Maraschino.

2635 — Charlotte Plombière

Line the Charlotte with lady’s-finger biscuits or with gaufrettes. When about to serve, garnish it with a Plombière ice (No. 2795) and turn it out upon a napkin.

2636 — Charlotte Renaissance

Line the bottom of the mould with a round piece of white paper, and the sides with rectangles of Génoise, glazed white and pink. Set the glazed sides of the rectangles against the mould.

Fill the mould, thus lined, with a vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation, combined with raw peeled and sliced apricots and peaches, pine-apple cut into dice, and wild strawberries, all these fruits having been previously macerated in Kirsch. Let the preparation set in the cool or on ice.

When the Charlotte is turned out, remove the round piece of paper, and in its place lay a slice of pine-apple, cut from the thickest part of the fruit and decorated with candied fruit.

2637 — Charlotte Russe

Make a rosette on the bottom of the mould with some heart-shaped lady’s-finger biscuits, and line the sides with the same biscuits trimmed, set upright and close together.

This Charlotte may be garnished with a vanilla-, pralin-, coffee-, orange- or chocolate-flavoured cream Bavarois preparation; or a Bavarois preparation made from a purée of such fruits as apricots, pine-apple, bananas, peaches, strawberries, etc.

The flavour or product which determines the character of the Charlotte should always be referred to on the menu, thus: Charlotte Russe à l’Orange or Charlotte Russe aux Fraises, etc.

2638 — Creams

Cold creams, served as entremets, belong to two very distinct classes:

(1) Cooked Creams, which are, in short, but a variety of custard.

(2) The Creams derived from natural, fresh cream, whipped and sugared, the generic type of which is Chantilly cream.

Cooked Creams are prepared either in special little pots, in small silver or porcelain bowls, or in moulds. Those prepared in moulds are turned out when they are quite cold, and are called “Crèmes renversées” to distinguish them from the first two kinds which are always served in the utensil in which they have cooked.

For all that, the term “Crème renversée” has grown somewhat obsolete, and the modern expression for this kind of custards is “Crème moulée.”

Crème au Caramel represents a perfect type of this class.

The custards served in their cooking-receptacles are more delicate than the others, because their preparation does not demand such a large quantity of eggs; but they are only served in the home, like English custard. For a stylish luncheon or dinner, moulded custards (Fr. crèmes moulées) are best.

2639 — Crème à la Vanille, Moulée

Boil one quart of milk containing one-half lb. of sugar; add a stick of vanilla, and let the latter infuse for twenty minutes. Pour this milk, little by little, over three eggs and eight yolks, previously whisked in a basin, and whisk briskly the while. Pass the whole through a fine sieve; let it rest for a moment or two; then completely remove all the froth lying on its surface, and pour the preparation into buttered moulds or into vases specially made for this purpose. Set to poach in a bain-marie, in a moderate oven, keeping lids on the utensils.

Not for one moment must the water in the bain-marie boil while the poaching is in progress; for the air contained by the preparation would then become over-heated, and the result would be an infinity of small holes throughout the depth of the custard, which would greatly mar its appearance.

As a matter of fact, the custard should poach, that is to say, coagulate, as the result of the surrounding water being kept at a constant temperature of 185° F. As soon as it is poached, let the custard cool.

When it is poached in the utensils in which it is served, one egg and eight yolks per quart of milk will be found sufficient. The utensils should be carefully wiped and dished on a napkin.

If the custard is to be turned out, carefully overturn the mould upon a dish, and pull it off a few minutes later. Moulded and potted custards admit of all the flavourings proper to entremets; but those which suit them best are vanilla, almond milk, almond and filbert pralin, coffee, chocolate, etc. Unless used in the form of very concentrated essences, fruit flavours are less suited to them.

2640 — Crème au Caramel

Clothe the bottom and sides of a mould with sugar cooked to the golden-caramel stage, and fill it up with a vanilla-flavoured, moulded-custard preparation. Poach and turn it out as directed.

2641 — Crème à la Viennoise, Moulée

This is a custard with caramel, but instead of clothing the mould with the latter, it is dissolved in the hot milk. The custard should be treated exactly like the vanilla-flavoured kind.

2642 — Crème à la Florentine

Make a preparation of pralin-flavoured custard with caramel and poach it.

When it is quite cold, turn it out on a dish; decorate it with Kirsch-flavoured Chantilly cream, and sprinkle its surface with chopped pistachios.

2643 — Crème à l’Opéra

Poach, in an ornamented border-mould, a preparation of pralin-flavoured custard. When it is turned out, garnish its midst with a dome of Chantilly cream, aromatised with pralined violets. Upon the border set a crown of fine strawberries, macerated in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and cover with a veil of sugar cooked to the large-crack stage.

Cold Creams With a Whisked-Cream Base

2644 — Crème à la Chantilly

Take some fresh and somewhat thick cream, and whisk it until it is sufficiently stiff to span the members of the whisk. Add to it eight oz. of powdered sugar per quart of cream, and flavour with vanilla or fruit essence.

2645 — Crème aux Fruits à la Chantilly

The constituents for this preparation are a purée of the selected fruit and Chantilly cream, in the proportion of one-third of the former to two-thirds of the latter.

The quantities of sugar and kind of flavour vary according to the nature of the fruit.

It is served either as an entremet garnish, or alone in a bowl, with a decoration of the same cream, laid by means of a piping-bag fitted with a small even or grooved pipe. Send some lady’s-finger biscuits separately.

2646 — Crème Caprice

Take some Chantilly cream, and add to it one-quarter of its bulk of roughly broken-up meringues. Put the preparation in an iced Madeleine-mould, lined with white paper; seal up thoroughly; string tightly, and keep the utensil in ice for two hours.

Turn out when about to serve; remove the paper; and decorate, by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, with Chantilly cream, tinted pink with strawberry and raspberry juice.

2647 — Brise du Printemps

Take some violet-flavoured, slightly-iced Chantilly cream, and set in small dessert-dishes, by means of a spoon.

2648 — Nuées Roses

Take some Chantilly cream, aromatised with vanilla-flavoured strawberry purée, and dish it in small dessert-dishes, by means of a spoon.

2649 — Flamri

Boil one pint of white wine and as much water, and sprinkle in it eight oz. of small semolina. Cook gently for twenty-five minutes. Then add to the preparation two-thirds lb. of powdered sugar, a pinch of table-salt, two eggs, and the whites of six, beaten to a stiff froth.

Pour it into moulds with buttered sides; set these to poach in the bain-marie, and leave them to cool. Turn out, and coat with a purée of raw fruit, such as strawberries, red-currants, cherries, etc., reasonably sugared.

2650 — Jellies

From the standpoint of their preparation, jellies are of two kinds: (1) wine- or liqueur-flavoured jellies; (2) fruit jellies. But their base is the same in all cases, i.e., gelatine dissolved in a certain quantity of water.

2651 — Calf’s-Foot Jelly

Take some fine soaked and blanched calves’ feet, and set them to cook in one and three-quarters pints of water apiece. Skim as thoroughly as possible; cover, and then cook very gently for seven hours. This done, strain the cooking-liquor and clear it of all grease; test its strength, after having cooled a little of it on ice; rectify it if necessary with sufficient filtered water, and once more test it by means of ice.

Per quart of calf’s-foot jelly, add eight oz. of sugar, a mite of cinnamon, half the rind of an orange and lemon, and all their juice.

For the clarification, proceed as directed hereafter.

2652 — Jelly With a Gelatine Base

Dissolve one oz. of strong gelatine in a quart of water. Add one-half lb. of sugar, one-sixth oz. of coriander, and the zest and juice of half a lemon and of a whole orange; boil, and then let the preparation stand for ten minutes away from the fire.

Whisk one and a half egg-whites in a very clean saucepan, together with a port wine-glassful of white wine, and pour the cleared syrup, little by little, over the egg-whites, whisking briskly the while. Set the saucepan on the fire, and continue whisking until the boil is reached; then move the utensil to a corner of the stove, and keep the jelly only just simmering for one-quarter of an hour.

At the end of that time the clarification is completed; strain the jelly through a woollen bag, placed over a very clean bowl, and, if the jelly is turbid after the first time of straining, strain it again and again until it becomes quite clear. Let it almost cool before adding any flavour.

The Flavouring.—Whether the jelly be prepared from calves’ feet or from gelatine, the above preparation is naught else than a cohered syrup, to which the addition of some flavour lends the character of a jelly. The complementary ingredients for jellies are liqueurs, good wines, and the juice of fruit; and the quantity of water prescribed should be so reduced as to allow for the ultimate addition of the liquid flavouring.

Thus, every jelly of which the flavour is a liqueur ought to be prepared with only nine-tenths of a quart of water; and the remaining one-tenth of the measure is subsequently added in the form of Kirsch, Maraschino, Rum, or Anisette, etc.

A jelly flavoured with a good wine, such as Champagne, Madeira, Sherry, Marsala, etc., should contain only seven-tenths of a quart of water and three-tenths of a quart of the selected wine.

In the case of fruit jellies, the procedure differs in accordance with the kind of fruit used.

For red-fruit jellies, prepared from strawberries, raspberries, red-currants, cherries, and cranberries, these fruits, which should be very ripe, are rubbed through a sieve, and combined with one-tenth to three-tenths of a quart of water per lb., according as to whether the fruit be more or less juicy.

This done, filter the resulting juice, and add it to the jelly in the proportion of one part of the former to two parts of the latter. The jelly should therefore be twice as strong as for the previous preparation, in order that it may remain sufficiently consistent in spite of the added juice.

When the fruit is too juicy, rub it through a sieve; let the juice ferment for a few hours, and only filter the clear juice which results from the fermentation.

Aqueous-fruit jellies, prepared from grapes, oranges, lemons, and tangerines, are made in the same way. The filtering of these fruit juices is easily done, and, except for the grapes, they need not be set to ferment.

When these fruits are not quite ripe, their juices may be added to the jelly even before the clarification—a procedure which helps to modify their acidity. The apportionment of the fruit juices to the jelly is practically the same as that of the red-fruit juices.

Stone-fruit, such as apricots, peaches, nectarines, plums, etc., are often used as jelly garnishes, but seldom serve as the flavouring base of a jelly. Whenever they are treated in this way, they are first plunged in boiling water, that they may be peeled; they are then poached and left to cool in the syrup which goes towards preparing the jelly.

This jelly, after it has been clarified and three-parts cooled, should have a little Kirsch or Maraschino added to it, that its fruit flavour may be intensified.

2653 — The Garnish and Accompaniments of Jellies

As a rule, jellies are served plain. Sometimes, however, they are garnished with variously-shaped, stewed fruits, symmetrically distributed in the jelly, with their colours nicely contrasted.

A jelly prepared in this way is called a “Suédoise of fruit.”

2654 — Gelées Rubannées

These are differently-flavoured and differently-coloured jellies moulded in alternate layers, even and equally thick.

They are generally served without garnish.

2655 — Jellies à la Russe

These are ordinary jellies which are whisked over ice until they begin to set. They are then speedily moulded. By skilfully mixing two or three of these jellies, of different shades and flavours, at the moment of moulding, very effective “Marbled Jellies” are obtained.

2656 — Jellies à la Moscovite

These are ordinary jellies, poured into tightly-closing moulds, the sealing of which is ensured by a thread of butter, laid round the edges of the lids. The moulds are then surrounded with broken ice, mixed with five lb. of freezing salt and eight oz. of saltpetre per twenty-five lb. of ice.

The cold produced by the salted ice causes a frosted coat to form round the jelly, the effect of which is exceedingly pretty. But the moulds should be withdrawn from the ice as soon as the frosted coat is formed and the jelly is set; for a longer sojourn in the cold would transform the jelly into an uneatable block of ice.

N.B.—Modern methods have greatly simplified the dishing and serving of jellies. They are now dished in special silver bowls or deep dishes, and they are not, as a rule, moulded. The bottom of these utensils is sometimes decked with stewed fruit or macédoines of fruit which are covered with the jelly; and, as the latter is served in the utensil itself, the quantity of gelatine may be reduced, and greater delicacy is the result.

2657 — Pains de Fruits

These “pains” are made in ordinary Charlotte moulds.

Clothe the mould with a fairly thick coat of jelly, in keeping with the flavour of the fruit used, which may be apricots, strawberries, red-currants, cherries, peaches, etc. Fill up the mould with a preparation, made as for a fruit Bavarois, but without cream.

The amount of gelatine used should therefore be reduced.

2658 — Cold Puddings

Cold puddings have a great deal in common with Bavarois and, more often than not, these two kinds of sweets have the same base. Their distinguishing difference lies in the fact that Bavarois are generally served without a garnish or sauce, whereas puddings always have either one or the other, and sometimes both.

Their garnishes always consist of fruit, and the latter is either stewed and served separately, or it is candied and combined with the pudding paste.

2659 — Pudding à la Bohémienne

Make some very small pancakes, and garnish them with a salpicon of candied fruits and currants swelled in tepid water, cohered with some fairly stiff, apple purée. Close up the pancakes to the shape of balls or rectangles, and set them in a buttered border-mould. Fill up the mould with a moulded-custard preparation (No. 2639), containing a good proportion of whole eggs, and poach in a bain-marie.

Leave the whole to cool in the mould; turn out at the last moment, and coat the pudding with a sabayon, flavoured according to fancy.

2660 — Pudding Diplomate

Decorate the bottom of an oiled deep Bavarois-mould with pieces of candied fruit. Fill up the mould with alternate layers of vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation and “lady’s-finger-biscuits,” saturated with Kirsch. On each layer of biscuit sprinkle some currants and raisins swelled in tepid water, and here and there set a tablespoonful of apricot jam.

Let the contents of the mould set in the cool or on ice, and turn out just before serving.

2661 — Pudding Diplomate aux Fruits

Prepare the pudding as above, but spread a few extra layers of fresh fruit in the mould, such as very ripe pears, peaches, apricots, etc., all peeled, cut into thin slices, and previously macerated with powdered sugar and half a port wine-glassful of either Kirsch, Maraschino, or Anisette, etc.

When the pudding is turned out, surround its base with some very cold stewed fruit the same as one of the kinds used inside the pudding, or some stewed, mixed fruit.

2662 — Pudding Malakoff

Prepare (1) a gelatinous English custard, combined with one pint of very fresh, raw cream per quart; (2) a stew of apples and pears, prepared as for an apple Charlotte; currants and sultanas, swelled in tepid syrup; fresh splintered almonds; candied orange rind, cut into dice; slices of stale biscuit, or lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated with liqueur. Oil a Charlotte mould, and pour into it a layer of cream half an inch thick. Upon this cream lay a thickness of biscuits, copiously coated with marmalade, and sprinkle with raisins, almonds and orange-rind dice.

Cover with a layer of cream; lay a second thickness of biscuits, and proceed thus in the same order with a Kirsch-flavoured cold sabayon.

2663 — Pudding à la Nesselrode

To an English custard, prepared after No. 2397, add eight oz. of a smooth, chestnut purée, and four oz. of currants and sultanas (swelled in tepid water), and candied orange-rind and cherries, cut into dice; these four products should be in almost equal quantities, and ought to have been previously macerated in sweetened Madeira.

Add some Maraschino-flavoured, whipped cream to the preparation; apportioning it as for a Bavarois.

Garnish the bottom and sides of a Charlotte mould with white paper; pour the preparation into the mould; completely close the latter, sealing the lid down with a thread of butter, and surround the utensil with plenty of salted ice. When about to serve, turn out on a napkin; remove the paper, and surround the base of the pudding with a crown of fine, candied chestnuts, or balls of chocolate-iced, candied chestnut purée.

N.B.—The English custard may be packed in the freezer, mixed with whipped cream when it is almost congealed, and then placed in a mould.

2664 — Pudding à la Richelieu

Rub some stewed prunes through a fine sieve, and add to the purée equal quantities of very stiff, Kirsch-flavoured jelly and the reduced juice of the prunes. Let a layer three-quarters of an inch thick, of the preparation set on the bottom of a Charlotte mould. In the latter set a smaller mould (tinned outside), filled with broken ice, and either fitted with handles that can rest on the brim of the first mould, or else sufficiently deep to be easily grasped and removed when necessary. The space between the sides of the two moulds should measure about three-quarters of an inch.

Fill up this space with what remains of the prune purée, thickened with jelly; leave the preparation to set; withdraw the ice from the little mould; pour some tepid water into the latter, that it may be immediately detached from the surrounding, iced preparation.

Fill the space left by the withdrawn mould with some vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation; leave to set, and turn out at the last moment on a napkin.

2665 — Pudding or “Crème Reine des Fées”

Prepare the whites of four eggs as for Italian meringue (No. 2383), and add to the sugar, while cooking, its bulk of quince jelly, and, at the last moment, one and a half ounces of candied fruit, cut into dice, macerated in Kirsch and carefully drained. Set the meringue, in shapes resembling large buttons, on a sheet of paper.

Boil in a utensil large enough to take the sheet of paper, four quarts of water, containing two and a half lb. of sugar and one-quarter pint of Kirsch. Slip the sheet of paper into this boiling syrup; withdraw it as soon as it easily separates from the pieces of meringue; poach the latter; drain them on a piece of linen and let them cool.

Meanwhile, make two Bavarois preparations; one white and vanilla-flavoured, and the other pink and flavoured with Curaçao. In these preparations the quantity of whisked cream should be twice as much as for ordinary Bavarois, whereas the quantity of gelatine should be reduced by half.

Set these preparations in even, alternate layers, in a slightly-oiled iced-Madeleine mould, distributing the meringues between each layer.

Cover the mould with a piece of paper and a lid, and keep it surrounded by ice for two hours. When about to serve, turn it out on a napkin.

Cold Fruit Entremets

Apricots (Abricots)

2666 — Abricots à la Parisienne

Poach the halved apricots in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Cool them and drain them; and reconstruct the apricots by joining the halves together with a piece of vanilla ice-cream, the size of a walnut, in the centre.

Set these apricots upon some large overturned macaroons; cover with vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream, shaped like a cone and sprinkle with fine filbert pralin.

2667 — Abricots à la Royale

Take some fairly deep tartlet moulds, and set in them some fine, cold, half-apricots, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Fill up the tartlet moulds with very limpid, Kirsch-flavoured jelly.

Prepare a shallow, Génoise border, glazed with red-currant jelly, cooked to the small-thread stage, and sprinkle with chopped pistachios.

Pine-apple (Ananas)

2668 — Ananas Georgette

Take a fine whole pine-apple, and hollow it out to within half an inch of its outside all round and at the bottom. Put aside the slice cut from the top, on which is the bunch of leaves.

Fill the inside with a Bavarois preparation made from pine-apple purée, combined with the withdrawn pine-apple pulp, cut into thin slices, and leave to set. Dish on a napkin, and return the top slice to the pine-apple, that it may seem untouched.

2669 — Ananas à la Virginie

Proceed exactly as above, but replace the pine-apple Bavarois preparation by a strawberry kind, combined, as before, with the pulp withdrawn from the inside of the pine-apple, cut into dice.

2670 — Ananas à la Ninon

Line the sides of a soufflé timbale with vanilla ice-cream, laying it in an oblique strip from the edge of the utensil to the centre of the bottom of the timbale. Upon this layer of ice-cream set two or three rows of thin pine-apple slices, in such a way as to make the slices of the last row project beyond the edge of the timbale.

In the centre of the mould build a pyramid of wild strawberries; cover this with a raspberry purée, and sprinkle the latter with chopped pistachios.

2670a — Pine-Apple à la Royale

Take a fresh pine-apple and cut a slice from its top, containing the bunch of leaves. Withdraw the pulp from the inside, and leave a thickness of about half an inch all round and on the bottom.

Fill it with a macédoine of fresh fruit macerated in Kirsch; set it in the middle of a crystal bowl; and surround the base with a crown of fine Montreuil peaches, poached in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, alternated by large strawberries, macerated in Kirsch.

Return the bunch of leaves to its place upon the pine-apple.

Cherries (Cerises)

2671 — Cerises à la Dubarry

Line a flawn-ring with good, short paste; set it on a small round baking-sheet; prick the paste on the bottom to prevent its blistering while baking, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and garnish with fine, stoned cherries, pressed snugly one against the other.

Bake the flawn in the usual way and let it cool.

When it is quite cold cover the cherries with Chantilly cream, combined either with ordinary pralin or with crushed macaroons.

Smooth the surface of the cream, as also the sides of the flawn; cover it with macaroon powder, and then decorate by means of the piping-bag with white and pink Chantilly cream.

2672 — Cerises au Claret

Select some fine cherries; cut off the ends of their stalks, and set them in a silver timbale. Pour sufficient sweetened Bordeaux wine (flavoured with a mite of cinnamon) over them, to just cover them. Close the timbale, and keep it on the side of the fire for ten minutes, that the cherries may poach.

Let them cool in the syrup; drain the latter away; reduce it by a third, and add, in order to thicken it slightly, one tablespoonful of red-currant jelly per six tablespoonfuls of reduced syrup.

Serve the cherries quite cold, and some lady’s-finger biscuits separately.

Strawberries (Fraises)

2673 — Fraises à la Créole

Set some fine strawberries and an equal amount of pine-apple, cut into dice, to macerate in powdered sugar and Kirsch.

Arrange a close crown of pine-apple slices, also macerated in Kirsch, upon a tazza. In the middle of the crown build a pyramid of the strawberries and pine-apple, and sprinkle with a Kirsch-flavoured syrup.

2674 — Fraises Femina

Select some fine strawberries; sprinkle them with sugar and Grand-Marnier Curaçao, and leave them to macerate on ice for an hour.

When about to serve, spread on the bottom of a bowl or timbale a layer of orange-ice (which should be combined with the macerating liqueur) and set the strawberries thereon.

2675 — Fraises Marguerite

Set some wild strawberries to macerate in sugar and Kirsch. Drain them; cohere them with an equal quantity of pomegranate sherbet; set them in a silver timbale, already surrounded with ice; cover the strawberries with Maraschino-flavoured Chantilly cream, and decorate with the latter.

2676 — Fraises Marquise

Set in a timbale surrounded with ice some Chantilly cream, combined with half its bulk of a purée of wild strawberries. Completely cover this cream with fine, fair-sized selected strawberries (macerated with Kirsch), rolled at the last minute in semolina sugar.

2677 — Fraises Melba

Garnish the bottom of a timbale with vanilla ice-cream. Upon this arrange a layer of choice strawberries, and cover the latter with a thick, slightly-sugared, fresh raspberry purée.

2678 — Fraises Nina

Prepare the strawberries as directed under No. 2675, and cohere them with pine-apple sherbet. Dish them as before in a timbale, and cover them with some Chantilly cream, tinted pink by means of a red-capsicum purée flavoured with ginger.

2679 — Fraises Romanoff

Macerate some fine strawberries with orange juice and Curaçao. Set them in a timbale surrounded with ice, and cover them with Chantilly cream, laid upon them by means of a piping-bag, fitted with a large, grooved pipe.

2680 — Fraises Wilhelmine

Macerate some fine, large strawberries with Kirsch, powdered sugar, and orange juice. Dish them in a timbale and serve a vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream separately.

2681 — Fraises Lérina

Take a small black melon of Carmes; open it by cutting out a bung-shaped piece containing the stalk, and remove all its seeds. Then cut out all the pulp, by means of a dessert-spoon, and sprinkle it with powdered sugar.

Macerate the required number of strawberries in Lérina liqueur.

Garnish the inside of the melon with these strawberries and the withdrawn pulp; close the melon by replacing the bung cut out at the start, and keep in a refrigerator for two hours, surrounded by ice.

Dish on a napkin at the last moment.

2682 — Fraises “Rêve de Bébé”

Select a fair-sized, very ripe pine-apple, cut off a slice of it at the top and withdraw all its pulp without bursting the rind.

Prepare a square cushion of Génoise, about two inches thick; slightly hollow it out towards its centre, that the emptied pine-apple may be set upright upon it; and stick the cushion upon a dry-paste base, of the same size and shape as the former. Glaze the Génoise cushion with pink fondant, decorate with “royale” glaze, and set a large strawberry at each corner.

Slice half of the withdrawn pine-apple pulp, and macerate it with Kirsch, Maraschino and sugar. Pound the remaining pulp and press it in order to extract its juice.

Set to macerate with this pine-apple juice a sufficient quantity of strawberries to three-parts fill the pine-apple.

When about to serve, fill the emptied pine-apple with successive and alternate layers of pine-apple with Kirsch and strawberries; and, between each layer, spread a coat of vanilla-flavoured, Chantilly cream.

Close the pine-apple with the slice cut off at the start, and set it upright in the hollow of the cushion. Serve the preparation very cold.

2683 — Fraises à la Ritz

Set some well-sugared and cooled strawberries in a timbale, and cover them with the following preparation: rub half-pound of wild strawberries through a sieve; add a little Melba sauce to the purée, that it may acquire a pink tint; and then add the same quantity of very stiff vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.

Thoroughly cool these strawberries before serving them.

2684 — Fraises Cardinal

Set some fine, cooled strawberries in a timbale; coat them with Melba sauce, or a purée of fresh raspberries, and sprinkle the latter with splintered fresh almonds.

2685 — Fraises Zelma Kuntz

Set some fine, cooled strawberries in a timbale. Cover them with a raspberry purée, combined with an equal quantity of Chantilly cream.

Decorate, by means of the piping-bag, with Chantilly cream, and sprinkle with a powdered pralin of filberts.

Gooseberries (Groseilles Vertes)

2686 — Gooseberry Fool

Poach one pound of green gooseberries in some thin syrup. When they are cooked, thoroughly drain them; rub them through a sieve, and collect the purée in a flat saucepan.

Work this purée on ice, and add the necessary amount of icing sugar to it.

The amount of the icing sugar varies according to the acidity of the fruit and the sweetness of the poaching-syrup.

Combine with the purée an equal quantity of very stiffly whipped cream; set the preparation in the shape of a dome in a timbale: decorate its surface, by means of a piping-bag, with Chantilly cream, and serve very cold.

Tangerines (Mandarines)

2687 — Mandarines Almina

Cut a slice of the rind from the stem-end of the tangerines by means of a round, even cutter, one inch in diameter. Then empty them, and fill the rinds with a preparation of Bavarois with violets, combined with crumbled lady’s-finger biscuits, sprinkled with Maraschino. Close the tangerines with the slice cut off at the start; let them set in a cool place, and, at the last moment, lay them on a dish covered with a folded napkin.

2688 — Mandarines à la Crème

Empty the tangerines, and fill their peels with a somewhat thick tangerine Bavarois preparation, combined with a third of its bulk of fresh, raw cream.

Place them in ice until they have to be served; dish them as directed in the preceding recipe.

2689 — Mandarines en Surprise

Proceed as for the oranges, but for the orange ice substitute tangerine jelly.

Oranges

2690 — Oranges au Blanc-Mange

Cut the oranges and empty them as directed in the case of tangerines. Then fill them with French blanc-mange (No. 2625), and let it set. Close the oranges with the slices cut off at the start, and dish them on a napkin.

2691 — Oranges Rubannées

Garnish the empty orange-rinds with regular layers of variously coloured and flavoured blanc-manges, or with alternated fruit jellies. When about to serve, quarter the oranges.

N.B.—These quartered oranges are sometimes used for the garnishing of cold entremets.

2692 — Oranges en Surprise

Cut a lateral slice from each orange, representing about one-fourth of their height, and empty them. Garnish the peels with orange ice; cover the latter with Italian meringue; set the garnished peels on broken ice, lying on a tray, and set them in a sufficiently hot oven, to quickly colour the meringue. On taking the oranges out of the oven, close each with the slices cut from them at the start, in which are stuck imitation leaves and stalks, made from pulled sugar. Dish them on a napkin.

2693 — Oranges Soufflées en Surprise

Empty the oranges as above; garnish the rinds with an orange soufflé preparation, and cook the latter.

On taking the oranges out of the oven, cover the soufflé with the slices cut off at the start; dish the oranges on a napkin, and serve them instantly.

Peaches and Nectarines (Pêches et Nectarines)

As nectarines may be prepared after the same recipes as peaches, there is no need to give special recipes for the former.

2694 — Pêches Aiglon

After having peeled the peaches, poach them in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and leave them to cool therein. Drain them, dish them upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream, spread in a false-bottomed silver timbale, the inner compartment of which contains broken ice. Sprinkle crystallised violets over the peaches; set the timbale on a block of ice, carved to represent an eagle, and cover the whole with a veil of spun sugar.

2695 — Pêches à l’Aurore

Poach the peeled peaches in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and let them cool there. Drain them; dish them in a silver timbale, upon a layer of “iced mousse with strawberries,” and coat the whole with a Curaçao-flavoured sabayon.

2696 — Pêches Alexandra

Poach the peaches in a vanilla-flavoured syrup and let them completely cool. Dish them in a timbale surrounded by ice containing on its bottom a layer of vanilla ice-cream, covered with a strawberry purée. Sprinkle the peaches with white and red rose-petals, and veil the whole with spun sugar.

2697 — Pêches Cardinal

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and, when they are quite cold, dish them in a timbale. Cover them with a very red, sweetened, raspberry purée, flavoured with Kirsch, and sprinkled with very white, splintered fresh almonds.

2698 — Pêches Dame-Blanche

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup. When they are cold, set them in a timbale upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream, covered with thin slices of pine-apple macerated in Maraschino and Kirsch.

Between each peach, and in every crevice, put some balls of Chantilly cream, laid by means of a piping-bag, fitted with a grooved pipe.

2699 — Pêches Melba

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Dish them in a timbale upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream, and coat them with a raspberry purée.

2700 — Pêches Petit-Duc

Prepare the peaches as under No. 2698, but use small heaps of red-currant jelly instead of balls of cream.

2701 — Pêches à la Sultane

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool.

Dish them in a timbale upon a layer of pistachio ice, and coat them with very cold, thickened syrup, flavoured with rose essence.

Veil the whole with spun sugar, and set the timbale upon a block of ice.

2702 — Pêches au Chateau-Laffite

Scald the peaches; peel them, and cut them in two.

Poach them in sufficient Château-Laffite wine to cover them, and sugar the wine to the extent of ten oz. of sugar per bottle.

Leave them to cool in the syrup, and dish them in a silver timbale.

Reduce the wine by three-quarters; thicken it with a little raspberry-flavoured, red-currant jelly.

When this syrup is quite cold, sprinkle the peaches with it.

2703 — Pêches à l’Impératrice

Cut the peaches in two; poach them in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool. Then drain and dry them; garnish the cut side of each of the half-peaches with enough vanilla ice-cream to give them the appearance of whole fruit. Coat the peach-side of each with some stiff apricot sauce, and roll them in pralined splintered almonds.

Dish these peaches upon a cushion of Génoise, saturated with Kirsch and Maraschino, set upon a dry-paste base, and glazed with raspberry glaze.

Veil the whole with spun sugar.

2704 — Pêches Rose-Chéri

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool. Dish them in a timbale; cover them with a purée of pine-apple with Clicquot, and serve very cold.

2705 — Pêches Rose-Pompon

Scald and peel some fine peaches; poach them in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool. Stone them without opening or breaking them overmuch, and in the place of the stone, put some very firm vanilla ice-cream.

Set these reconstructed peaches in a silver timbale, upon a layer of raspberry ice; cover them with pralined Chantilly cream; and before serving put them for thirty minutes in the refrigerator.

At the last moment, veil the timbale with pink, spun sugar.

Pears (Poires)

2706 — Poires Alma

Peel the pears and poach them in a syrup made from one quart of water, one-half pint of port wine, eight ounces of sugar, and the blanched and chopped zest of an orange. Cool: dish them in a timbale; sprinkle them with powdered pralin, and serve a Chantilly cream at the same time.

2707 — Poires Cardinal

Poach the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then proceed as directed under No. 2697.

2708 — Poires à la Carignan

Evenly turn some very fine dessert pears, and cook them in a vanilla-flavoured syrup; keeping them fairly firm. Drain them on a dish and let them cool. This done, trim them flat at their base, and empty them from underneath by means of a root spoon, after having outlined the circumference of the opening with an even round cutter.

Close them up with a little roundel of Génoise, stamped out by means of the same cutter as that used above.

Set the pears on a tray; coat them speedily with apricot jam cooked to the small-thread stage; glaze them with chocolate fondant, and keep them for three hours in a very cold refrigerator. Meanwhile, prepare as many small Génoise squares as there are pears; and make them one-quarter inch wider than the diameter of the pears. Saturate these square bases with Anisette, and by means of a little apricot jam cooked to the small-thread stage, stick each of them on to very thin, dry-paste bases of the same size. Coat these prepared bases with the same apricot jam, and garnish them all round, as also their uncovered corners, with pralined splintered almonds.

When about to serve, take the pears out of the refrigerator, set them on these bases: stick into each a stalk and a leaf, made from pulled sugar; and dish on a napkin.

N.B.—Each pear should be cut vertically into two, three, or four pieces, subject to its size.

2709 — Poires Félicia

Poach some quartered William pears in vanilla-flavoured syrup and let them cool. Cook also, in a pink syrup, some very small halved pears.

Dish the quarters in the middle of a border of Viennese cream (No. 2641) laid out upon a dish. Cover them with a pyramid of vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream, and sprinkle its surface with crushed, red pralines.

Surround the cream border with the pink half-pears.

2710 — Poires à la Florentine

Fill an oiled border-mould with a semolina Bavarois preparation, and let it set. Turn it out at the last moment, and garnish the middle of the border with stewed pears, cohered by means of a vanilla-flavoured apricot purée.

2711 — Poires Hélène

Poach the pears in vanilla-flavoured syrup and let them cool.

When about to serve, dish them in a timbale upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream, sprinkled with crystallised violets.

Serve a hot, chocolate sauce separately.

2712 — Poires Marquise

Cook the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and drain them that they may cool. This done, coat them again and again with some very stiff raspberry-flavoured red-currant jelly, and sprinkle them instantly with chopped, burnt almonds.

Set the pears on a “Diplomatic Pudding,” made in a manqué mould, and turned out on a round dish. Surround the base of the pudding with a border of apple-jelly croûtons, neatly cut to triangular shapes.

2713 — Poires Mary-Garden

Cook the pears in syrup; cool them, and dish them on a timbale, upon a Melba sauce, combined with half-sugared cherries, softened in tepid water for a few minutes.

Decorate the pears with Chantilly cream.

2714 — Poires Melba

Poach the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and proceed as directed under No. 2699.

2715 — Poires Pralinees

Stew the pears and let them cool. Set them in a timbale, and coat with some Frangipan cream, thinned by means of a little raw cream.

Between each pear, set a well-moulded tablespoonful of Chantilly cream, and cover the whole with concassed-almond pralin.

Serve a cold or hot chocolate sauce at the same time.

2716 — Poires à la Religieuse

Stew the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup; cool them, and dish them in a shallow porcelain timbale equal in depth to the length of the pears.

Cover them with a somewhat thin chocolate Bavarois preparation, and place the whole for two hours in the refrigerator before serving.

2717 — Poires au Rhum

Stew the pears and set them in a timbale.

Thicken the syrup with arrowroot, colour it faintly with pink; flavour it with rum; pour it over the pears, and let them cool.

N.B.—These pears may also be served hot, after the same recipe; except that the rum is poured over the pears, hot, at the last moment, and set alight at the table.

2718 — Poires à la Reine Emma

Mould a Flamri preparation in an even border-mould, decorated with candied fruit. Set this to poach, and, when it is cold, turn it out on a round dish.

In the middle set a pyramid of quartered pears, stewed in a vanilla-flavoured syrup; coat the quarters with Frangipan cream, combined with a quarter of its bulk of crushed, dry macaroons, and with double its volume of very stiff Chantilly cream.

Decorate the top, by means of a piping-bag, with Chantilly cream; and serve some Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

Apples

2719 — Pommes à la Royale

Peel some small apples, core them by means of a tube-cutter, and poach them in vanilla-flavoured syrup. When they are quite cold, coat them with red-currant jelly, and dish them in a circle, each upon a tartlet of blanc-mange. Garnish their midst with chopped Maraschino jelly.

Various Cold Sweets (Entremets)

2720 — Biscuit à la Reine

Cook, in a manqué mould, a Savoy-biscuit preparation, and let it cool.

With a little apricot jam, cooked to the small-thread stage, stick this biscuit on a dry-paste base; saturate it with cold syrup, flavoured with Kümmel, and by means of a piping-bag decorate it all round and on its edges with royale icing.

Turn out upon it a Bavarois with Maraschino, moulded in a Richelieu mould of proportionate size.

2721 — Croûte à la Mexicaine

Cut some slices three inches long by one-third inch thick from a stale Génoise. Coat them with a Condé pralin, and dry them in a moderate oven.

Set these croûtes in a crown on a round dish, and garnish their midst with a rocky pyramid of plombière ice, projecting above them.

2722 — Diplomate aux Fruits

Prepare (1) a base of Génoise with fruit, glazed with apricot jam, cooked to the small-thread stage; (2) a Bavarois with fruits.

Turn out the latter upon the former, and surround the whole with stewed fruit of the same kind as those used for the Bavarois.

2723 — Ile Flottante

Take a stale Savoy biscuit, and cut it into thin slices.

Saturate the latter with Kirsch and Maraschino, coat them with apricot jam, and sprinkle the latter with currants and chopped almonds. Put the slices one upon the other, in suchwise as to reconstruct the biscuit, and coat the latter with a layer of sweetened and vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.

Sprinkle the cream with splintered pistachios and currants; set the whole on a tazza, and surround it with vanilla-flavoured English custard, or raspberry syrup.

2724 — Milk Junket

Gently heat one quart of milk. When it has reached 95° F. take it off the fire; add two and one-half oz. of sugar to it; flavour it as fancy may suggest; put into it six drops of russet-apple essence (or two pastils of russet-apple essence, dissolved in six drops of water); pour it into a timbale, and serve it very cold.

N.B.—This very delicate and simple entremet is little else, indeed, than flavoured and sweetened milk, caused to set by the combined agencies of heat and russet-apple essence.

2725 — Macédoine of Cooled Fruit

Take some fresh fruit of the season, such as ripe William pears and peaches, peeled and sliced apricots and bananas, and add to it some small or large strawberries, raspberries, white- and red-currants; skinned, fresh almonds, etc.

Set these fruits in a timbale surrounded by ice, mixing them well together; sprinkle them with a syrup at 30° (saccharom.), flavoured with Kirsch or Maraschino, and let them macerate for an hour or two; taking care to toss them from time to time.

2726 — Eugenia: Italian Cream

Select some very ripe Eugenia; peel, slice, and set to macerate in a bowl, with Maraschino-flavoured syrup.

Set the fruit in a timbale, upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream; decorate them on top with Chantilly cream, and sprinkle the latter with crystallised violets.

2727 — Marquise Alice

Prepare a pralin-flavoured Bavarois in a manqué mould: garnish the inside with lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated with Anisette.

Turn it out on a dish, and completely cover it with an even coat of very stiff, sweetened and vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.

On top, lay some parallel lines of red-currant jelly, by means of the piping-bag; and then cut these lines at right angles, with the point of a small knife. Surround the base with small puff-paste triangles, coated with “Pralin a Condé,” dried in the oven.

2728 — Melon à l’Orientale

Take a melon that is just ripe; make a circular incision round its stalk, and remove the resulting bung. Get rid of the seeds and withdraw the pulp by means of a silver spoon. Cut the pulp into dice.

Copiously sprinkle the inside of the melon with icing-sugar and fill it up with wild strawberries and the pulp dice, spread in alternate layers, sprinkled with sugar. Complete with one-sixth pint of Kirsch; close the melon with the excised bung, seal the joint with a thread of butter, and keep the melon in the cool for two hours.

Dish it on a napkin, and serve gaufrettes at the same time.

2729 — Melon Frappe

Select two very ripe, medium-sized melons, and, with the entire pulp of one of them, cleared of all the rind and seeds and rubbed through tammy, prepare a Granité after No. 2930.

Cut the other melon round the stalk and open it. Completely remove the seeds; and, by means of a silver spoon, withdraw the pulp piecemeal, and set it to macerate on ice with a little sugar and one of the following wines or liqueurs: Port, Curaçao, Rum, Kirsch or Maraschino.

Keep the emptied rind for thirty minutes in a refrigerator.

When about to serve, set the emptied melon on a small block of fancifully carved ice, and fill it up with the Granité and the macerated pulp spread in alternate layers. When the melon is full, return the excised bung to its place.

N.B.—This melon is served, by means of a spoon, upon iced plates, and it often takes the place of ices at the end of a dinner.

2730 — Melon en Surprise

Empty the melon as above, and fill it with a macédoine of fresh fruits, combined with the withdrawn pulp of the melon, cut into dice and cohered with a sugared and Kirsch-flavoured purée of wild strawberries.

Close the melon and keep it in the refrigerator for two hours.

2731 — Garnished Meringues

Join the meringue shells together in couples, by means of some stiff sugared and flavoured Chantilly cream or with some sort of ice, and dish them on a napkin.

2732 — Mont-Blanc aux Fraises

Add some small wild strawberries macerated in cold, vanilla-flavoured syrup and drained, to some very stiff Chantilly cream; the proportions being four oz. of the former per quart of the latter.

2733 — Mont-Blanc aux Marrons

Cook some chestnuts in sweetened and vanilla-flavoured milk and rub them through a sieve, over an overturned, even border-mould; in order that the chestnut purée, falling in the form of vermicelli, may garnish the mould naturally.

Fill up the mould with the purée that has fallen over the sides of the mould; turn out the border on a dish, and in the midst set an irregular and jagged mound of sugared and vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.

2734 — Mont-Rose

Prepare a Charlotte, Plombière in a shallow Madeleine ice-mould.

Having turned out the Charlotte on a dish, cover it on top with tablespoonfuls of Chantilly cream, combined with a purée of fresh raspberries, and so shaped as to imitate a pyramidic rock.

2735 — Œufs à la Neige

Mould some ordinary meringue, by means of a spoon, to represent eggs; and drop the mouldings into a sautépan containing some boiling sugared and vanilla-flavoured milk. Turn the meringues over in the milk, that they may poach evenly, and, as soon as they are firm, drain them in a sieve.

Strain the milk through muslin; add six egg yolks, and with it prepare an English custard.

Set the egg-shaped meringues on a tazza and cover them with the prepared custard, kept very cold.

2736 — Moulded Œufs à la Neige

Prepare the meringues and the English custard as above; but to the latter add five or six gelatine leaves soaked in cold water. Set the egg-shaped meringues in an oiled border-mould; cover them with the very cold custard, which, however, should not have set; and let the preparation set in the cool, or surrounded by ice.

2737 — Mousselines D’Œufs Rejane

By means of a piping-bag, fitted with an even pipe, lay some ordinary meringues upon sheets of white paper, in shapes resembling large macaroons.

Slip the sheets of paper into boiling, sugared and vanilla-flavoured milk, and withdraw the sheets of paper as soon as the meringues sever from them. Complete the poaching of the meringues, and drain them.

Set these meringues, two by two, in silver or porcelain egg-dishes; place a fine, poached half apricot in the middle of each, and cover the whole with a few teaspoonfuls of English custard.

2738 — Mousseline of Eggs, Mimi

This is a preparation of ordinary Italian meringue, poached in a bain-marie, in a caramel-clothed mould. Let the contents get quite cold before turning out, and serve some stewed, fresh fruit and an English custard separately.

2739 — Rice à l’Impératrice

Make a vanilla-flavoured preparation of rice for entremets, using the quantities of milk and sugar already prescribed. When the rice is cooked, and somewhat cold, add to it four oz. of a salpicon of candied fruit and four tablespoonfuls of apricot jam, per one-half lb. of raw rice. Then combine with it an equal quantity of Kirsch-flavoured Bavarois preparation, or one pint of thick English custard and one pint of whipped cream.

Let a layer of red-currant jelly set upon the bottom of a Bavarois mould; then pour the above preparation into the latter and let the whole set, either in the cool or surrounded by ice.

When about to serve, turn out on a napkin.

2740 — Rice à la Maltaise

Prepare the rice with milk as above, but flavour it with orange rind, and omit the apricot jam and the candied fruit salpicon. Combine with it an equal quantity of orange Bavarois preparation; pour the whole into a dome-mould, and let it set on ice. When about to serve, turn out upon a round dish, and cover it with alternate rows of orange-sections, skinned raw and macerated in a syrup flavoured with orange-rind.

2741 — Suédoise of Fruit

As I mentioned in my remarks upon the preparation of jellies, a Suédoise of fruit is a jelly moulded in an aspic mould and garnished with layers of stewed fruit, the colours and kinds of which should be contrasted as much as possible.

2742 — Fraisalia Timbale

Prepare a timbale of Savarin paste in a Charlotte mould.

When it is baked and cooled, remove the crumb from its inside leaving a thickness of half an inch on its bottom and sides; smear it thinly with Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and return the timbale to the mould.

Surround the timbale with fine dice of strawberry jelly.

2743 — Tivoli aux Fraises

Clothe an ornamented mould, fitted with a central tube, with a thick coat of very clear, Kirsch-flavoured jelly. Fill the mould with a Bavarois preparation, combined with plenty of wild strawberry purée, and let its contents set. Turn it out, when about to serve, and surround it with very clear, chopped, Kirsch-flavoured jelly.

Notes

They serve for nougat, and sometimes take the place of pignolis.

It need now only be heaped in a receptacle, covered with a damp cloth, and kept somewhat dry.

Finally, put the paste into a basin; cover it, and place it in a temperate room.

Finish, away from the fire, with four oz. of butter, five egg-yolks, and twelve whites, whisked to a very stiff froth.

N.B.—The procedure is the same for Raspberry, Red-currant, Cherry, Orange, and Tangerine fritters. For the last-named, it is better to quarter them and peel them raw, than to slice them.

When about to serve them, quickly treat them à l’anglaise; set them (opened side uppermost) in a frying-basket, and dip them for a few seconds in smoking fat. Withdraw them as soon as their crusts have acquired a golden colour; sprinkle them with icing sugar; dish them on a napkin, and serve them immediately.

Drain them as soon as they begin to colour; and plunge them immediately into a light, hot syrup, flavoured as fancy may dictate. Withdraw them as soon as they are beginning to be saturated, and serve them cold.

A little while before serving, detach the roundels from the tray; dip them in somewhat thin batter, and fry them in plenty of hot fat.

Smooth it all round with the blade of a knife; decorate according to fancy with the contents of the piping-bag, and cook in a good, moderate oven, for as long as the size of the omelet requires.

In the centre of the savarin set a cushion of Génoise sufficiently thick to reach half-way up the former.

Pour this preparation into an even, deep, buttered and dredged border-mould; and poach in the bain-marie.

With this almond milk, dilute three oz. of flour and three oz. of rice cream, mixed in a saucepan, and take care that no lumps form. Strain the whole through a strainer, and add five oz. of sugar, three oz. of butter and a little salt.

Line a dome-mould with these slices, and fill it up with vanilla-flavoured rice; leaving a hollow in the middle. Garnish this hollow with the pine-apple parings, cut into dice, and custard apples and bananas, likewise cut into dice and cooked in syrup.

Serve the timbale with this preparation; put its cover on, and set it on a warm dish.

The “Panier” (basket) is made in the same way, but with biscuits all of the same size, and without the imitation iron-hoops. On the base and by means of sugar cooked to the large-crack stage, fix a handle of pulled sugar, decked with sugar flowers.

Whatever be the purpose of this cream, it should, if possible, be prepared only at the last moment.

The gelatine should be extracted from calf’s foot, by boiling the latter; but, although this is the best that can be obtained, the means of obtaining it are the most complicated. The gelatine bought ready-made may also be used in the quantities given below.

The sauces for puddings are those given at the beginning of this chapter.

Turn out the tartlets of apricot jelly and place them in a crown over the border. Garnish the centre of the latter with chopped anisette-flavoured pink jelly.

Fill them with a preparation of “Bombe au chocolat praliné” (see Bombe, No. 2826).

Dish in the shape of a dome; surround the base with large strawberries, rolled in beaten egg-whites and then in semolina sugar, and decorate the surface with large and very red half-strawberries.

Now garnish it with alternate layers of vanilla-flavoured, Bavarois preparation and wild strawberries, macerated in Kirsch. Let it set in the cool, or surround the mould with ice. Turn out the timbale first upon a plate; overturn it on a dish, and upon it set a pyramid of vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream. Stud the latter all over with small, very red strawberries, or garnish it with large half-strawberries.