A Guide to Modern Cookery

Chapter XVI Poultry (Volaille)

Although the term “poultry” (Fr. volaille), in its general sense, implies Turkeys, Geese, Ducks and Pigeons, just as well as Fowls, only the latter are meant, from the culinary standpoint, when the word “Volaille” appears on a menu.

Four qualities of fowl are recognised in cookery, and each plays its part, has its uses, and is quite distinct from the other three. We have:—

(1) Pullets and capons; usually served whole, either as relevés or roasts.

(2) Chickens, so-called “à la Reine”; used for sautés and chiefly for roasts.

(3) Spring chickens; best suited to en cocotte or grilled preparations.

(4) Chicks; served only en cocotte or grilled.

Suprêmes and ailerons of fowl, which are among the finest entrées, are supplied by chickens à la Reine or by Spring chickens.

Finally, there are the giblets, consisting of the pinions, necks, gizzards, and livers of fowl, which give rise to a number of preparations, the recipes whereof I shall give briefly at the end of the series.

1443 — Pullets and Capons for Relevés

Pullets and capons for relevés and entrées are poached or poëled; sometimes, but more rarely, they are braised.

The birds to be treated by poaching are trussed with the claws folded back and inserted into the belly; their fillets and legs are rubbed with lemon, so as to keep them white, and they are then covered with thin slices of larding bacon.

The ingredients for chicken poaching stock were given under No. 249. The bird is known to be cooked when the blood which issues from a prick on the leg is white or faintly pink.

These fowls are sometimes larded or studded. When this is to be done, dip the legs and belly of a trussed and lemon-rubbed fowl into boiling white stock; this will be found to sufficiently harden the flesh to allow of its being treated in the required way. The products used for studding and larding are, according to circumstances, ham or tongue, truffles or mushrooms, and sometimes, the red part of a carrot for the larding. Only truffles, ham and tongue are used for studding.

Poëled fowls are trussed as above; they are covered with slices of bacon in order that the fillets may be protected during the first stages of the cooking; then they are cooked in butter on poëling-aromatics, under cover and in a deep, thick saucepan. When the piece is almost cooked, just moisten it a little, either with rich poultry-stock, with the cooking-liquor of truffles or mushrooms, with Madeira, red or white wine, &c. This moistening serves in the basting of the fowl and must therefore be renewed if it reduces too quickly. After having been cleared of all grease, it is always added to the sauce which accompanies the piece of poultry.

Braised fowls are always treated after the manner described under No. 248; they are not rubbed with lemon, but they are covered with slices of bacon. The latter should only cover the breast, but be thick, notwithstanding; for they protect the belly, which, without them, would shrivel by the time the legs cooked.

The covering of bacon is essential to all pieces of poultry, whether these be poached, poëled, braised or roasted.

1444 — The Way to Serve Poultry Relevés Quickly and Hot

I feel bound to call the reader’s attention to this very important point in culinary work:—

Owing to the difficulties involved in the carving of the fowl and the placing and arranging of the pieces and their garnish upon the consumers’ plates—both of which operations require dexterity and expertness, which those in charge very often do not possess, or thanks to the inefficiency of particular installations, or what not, I have noticed for some considerable time, that the method of serving large pieces of poultry is, in many cases, very far from being the right one.

For, indeed, how often does not the diner find himself presented with a plate of fowl which is neither appetisingly dainty nor yet sufficiently hot! It follows from this, that all the care and trouble devoted by a chef to the preparation of the dish are entirely wasted. Now, I have tried to improve this state of affairs, by planning a method of serving which would be at once simple and expeditious, without necessarily being devoid of tastefulness and presentability.

Having properly smoothed and arranged the selected garnish, the fowl may now be placed, either at one end of any but a round dish, or on a low cushion of fried bread, on which it may be set firmly.

It may also be entirely coated with Mornay sauce, sprinkled with grated cheese, and speedily glazed.

When the body of the bird is dished, its garnish should be set round it in fine, tartlet crusts; its suprêmes, quickly sliced, should be distributed among the tartlets, and the dish sent to the table with the sauce separately.

By this means, it reaches the table hot, it is served quickly and cleanly; and every person gets a slice of meat, and not garnish only, as was so often the case formerly.

Instead of tartlets, one may use thin croûtons of bread, of the size of the slices of chicken, and fried in fresh butter.

Thus, for a “Poularde à la Derby,” after having stuffed the pullet with rice, suppressed the bones of the breast, and removed the suprêmes; all that is necessary is to properly shape the rice, and to dish the fowl on a cushion.

This done, prepare as many croûtons and slices of foie-gras, sautéd in butter, as there are diners, and arrange them round the pullet—the slices of foie-gras lying on the croûtons. Now, quickly cut the suprêmes into slices; put one of these on each slice of foie-gras, and on each of the latter put a slice of truffle. Put the pullet, thus prepared, in the oven for a few minutes; let it get very hot, and send it to the table with the sauce separately.

In the dining-room the Maître-d’hôtel quickly serves the garnished croûtons on hot plates, beside each croûton he puts a tablespoonful of the rice with which the pullet has been stuffed, and, finally, a tablespoonful of sauce.

In less than two minutes after its entrance into the dining-room, the pullet is thus served warm to each person.

Of course, the above measures refer to the fowl that has to be dished whole and presented; but, when this is not required, the rice withdrawn from the cooked bird need only be set in the centre of a deep, square entrée dish (fitted with a cover), and surrounded by the sliced suprêmes, with intercalated slices of foie-gras and truffle. The sauce is also served separately in this case. Cover the dish, so that it may stand and keep hot a few minutes, if necessary, without spoiling.

The legs, which are rarely served at a well-ordered dinner, remain in the kitchen together with the carcass.

I cannot too strongly recommend the system just described, whenever the circumstances allow of its being put into practice. It is the only one that ensures an efficient service, calculated to give entire satisfaction to all concerned.

1445 — Poularde Albufera

Stuff the pullet with the rice prescribed under No. 2256, and poach it. Dish it and coat with Albuféra sauce.

Surround with small tartlet crusts, garnished with truffles raised by means of a spoon the size of a pea; quenelles of the same shape; small button mushrooms, and cocks’ kidneys. Cohere this garnish with Albuféra sauce.

Between each tartlet, place a slice of salted tongue, cut to the shape of a cock’s comb.

1446 — Poularde Alexandra

Having larded the pullet with tongue and truffle, poach it.

This done, remove the suprêmes, and replace them by mousseline forcemeat; smooth this forcemeat, giving it the shape of the pullet in so doing, and set to poach in the front of the oven.

Now, coat the piece with Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly. Dish, and surround with tartlet-crusts garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered with butter; place a collop of the reserved suprêmes (which should have been kept hot) on each tartlet, and border the dish with a thread of pale glaze.

1447 — Poularde Ambassadrice

Stud the pullet with truffles, cover it with a Matignon (No. 227), wrap it in muslin, and braise it.

Remove the suprêmes; suppress the bones of the breast; fill the carcass with a garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and arrange this garnish as already described under No. 1444.

Slice the suprêmes, and put them back on the garnish, in suchwise as to reconstruct the breast of the fowl. Coat the piece with somewhat stiff and fine suprême sauce; dish it, and surround it with lamb sweet-breads, studded with truffles, braised and glazed, and alternate the sweetbreads with little faggots of asparagus-heads.

1448 — Poularde Andalouse

Poële the pullet. Dish it, and coat it with its poëling-liquor, combined with tomatéd half-glaze sauce. On either side of it set some capsicums, stuffed with rice, and some roundels of egg-plant, seasoned, dredged and tossed in butter; alternating the two products.

1449 — Poularde à l’Anglaise

Poach the pullet, and coat it with a Béchamel sauce flavoured with chicken-essence.

Dish it and surround it with slices of salted tongue, laid tile-fashion on either side; and heaps of carrots and turnips (cut to the shape of balls) and peas and celery, at either end. All these vegetables should be cooked à l’anglaise; i.e., either in boiling water or in steam.

1450 — Poularde à l’Aurore

Poach the pullet without colouration; dish it, and coat it with an “Aurore Sauce” (No. 60). Surround it with medium-sized, decorated quenelles; and trimmed oval slices of salted tongue, arranged according to fancy.

1451 — Poularde à la Beaufort

Stuff the pullet with a fine foie-gras, stiffened in the oven for twenty minutes with a little Madeira, and cooled.

Fill up the pullet with a little, fine sausage-meat; stud it with truffles, and braise it in short moistening.

Dish it on a low cushion, and surround it with braised, lambs’ tongues, alternated with artichoke-bottoms, garnished with a rosette of Soubise purée. As an adjunct, use the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease.

1452 — Poularde Bouillie à l’Anglaise

Cook the pullet in light, white stock with one lb. of breast of bacon and a garnish of vegetables as for pot-au-feu. Dish, and surround with the bacon, cut into slices.

Serve, separately, an English parsley sauce, and a sauceboat of the pullet’s cooking-liquor.

1453 — Poularde aux Céleris

Poële the pullet, and baste it towards the close of the operation with strong veal stock.

Prepare a garnish of braised celery.

1454 — Poularde aux Champignons a Brun

Poële the pullet, and swill the saucepan with mushroom essence. Add this swilling-liquor (reduced) to one-quarter pint of half-glaze with Madeira.

Dish the pullet, and surround it with twenty grooved and cooked mushroom-heads. Serve separately the reduced half-glaze, to which add two oz. of fresh butter.

1455 — Poularde aux Champignons a Blanc

Poach the pullet.

Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce flavoured with mushroom essence.

Surround it with twenty grooved, cooked and very white mushroom-heads.

1456 — Poularde Chanoinesse

Prepare a “Poularde Soufflée” after recipe No. 1518. Dish it, and surround it with small heaps of crayfishes’ tails, alternated with small croûtons of fried bread, on each of which place a collop of the suprêmes. Finish off with a slice of truffle on each collop of the suprêmes.

Serve a Mornay sauce, finished with crayfish butter, separately.

1457 — Poularde Châtelaine

Poële the pullet without letting it acquire too much colour.

Dish it, and surround it with small artichoke-bottoms, stewed in butter and garnished with Soubise.

Alternate the artichoke-bottoms with small heaps of chestnuts cooked in consommé and glazed.

Pour a little thickened poëling-liquor on the bottom of the dish, and serve what remains of it, separately, in a sauceboat.

1458 — Poularde Chevalière

Remove the suprêmes, and the minion fillets. Lard the former with two rows of truffles and two rows of tongue; trim the minion fillets; make five or six slits in each; insert a thin slice of truffle half-way into each slit, and draw the respective ends of the two fillets together in suchwise as to form two rings. Put the suprêmes and the minion fillets each into a buttered sautépan, and cover the latter.

Remove the pullet’s legs, keeping the skin as long as possible; bone them to within one and one-third inches of the joints, and cut off the claws, aslant, just below the same joints. Garnish the boned regions with godiveau prepared with cream close the opening by means of a few stitches of strong cotton, and truss each leg in such a manner as to imitate a small duck.

Poach these stuffed legs in stock made from the pullet’s carcass.

Also poach the suprêmes and the minion fillets in good time, with a little mushroom cooking-liquor, and a few drops of lemon juice.

With a pinch of flour mixed with water, stick a fried croûton (the shape of a pyramid, three inches high and of two inch base) in the middle of a dish.

Around this pyramid, arrange the two stuffed legs and the two suprêmes; putting each of them on a decorated quenelle with the view of slightly raising them. Set the minion fillets on the legs, and, between the latter and the suprêmes, lay small heaps of cocks’ combs and kidneys, and some very white mushroom-heads. Pierce the croûton with a hatelet garnished with one truffle, one fine cock’s comb, and a large mushroom.

Serve a suprême sauce separately.

N.B.—This dish is generally bordered, either with noodle-paste, white English paste, or with a chased silver border.

1459 — Poularde Chimay

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of half-poached noodles, tossed in butter, and combined with a little cream and three oz. of foie-gras cut into large dice.

Poële it gently; dish it, and coat it with some of its poëling-liquor, thickened.

Distribute over the pullet a copious amount of raw noodles, sautéd in clarified butter; and serve the remainder of the thickened poëling-liquor separately.

1460 — Poularde Chipolata

Poële the pullet and put it into a terrine à pâté with a garnish consisting of small, glazed onions; chipolata sausages, poached in butter; chestnuts cooked in consommé; fried pieces of bacon; and, if desired, some small glazed carrots.

Add the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and simmer for ten minutes before serving.

1461 — Poularde à la Chivry

Poach the pullet. Dish it and coat it with Chivry sauce (No. 78).

Serve a Macédoine of new vegetables; cohered with butter or cream, separately.

1462 — Poularde Cussy

Braise the pullet. Dish it and surround it with whole truffles, cooked in Mirepoix with Madeira, and alternated with fine, grilled mushrooms, garnished with artichoke purée.

In front of the pullet set a small, silver shell, in which shape a pyramid of large cocks’ combs, heated in butter.

1463 — Poularde en Demi-Deuil

Between the skin and the fillets of the fowl insert a few fine slices of raw truffle. Lard the pullet and poach it.

When it is ready, strain the cooking-liquor through a napkin; reduce it, and add it to a very white suprême sauce, containing slices of truffle.

Dish the pullet; cook it with some of the sauce, and send what remains, separately, in a sauceboat.

1464 — Poularde Demidoff

Poële the pullet. When it is three-parts done, put it into a cocotte and surround it with the following garnish, prepared in advance and stewed in butter; viz:—one-half lb. of carrots and five oz. of turnips, cut into grooved crescents, one inch in diameter; five oz. of small onions cut into thin roundels, and five oz. of celery.

Complete the cooking of the pullet with this garnish, and add to it, when about to serve, three oz. of truffles, cut to the shape of crescents, and one-sixth pint of chicken stock.

Serve the preparation in the cocotte, after having cleared the liquor of all grease.

1465 — Poularde Derby

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256; and poële it. Dish, and surround it with collops of foie-gras, tossed in butter (each set on a small, fried croûton), and alternate these with large, whole truffles, cooked in champagne.

As an adjunct, serve the pullet’s cooking-liquor, cleared of all grease, combined with the cooking-liquor of the truffles and one-sixth pint of veal gravy. Reduce the whole to one-sixth pint and thicken with arrow-root.

1466 — Poularde Diva

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256, and poach it without colouration.

Dish it, and coat it with suprême sauce, flavoured with paprika.

Send a garnish consisting of cèpes with cream, separately.

1467 — Poularde Devonshire

Bone the breast of a fine pullet; season it inside, and fill it with a chicken forcemeat, prepared with cream and mixed with half its weight of very fine sausage-meat.

In the middle of the pullet set a nice salted and cooked calf’s tongue, trimmed and cleared of all cartilage; and place it so that its thin end lies in the region of the bird’s tail.

Sew up the pullet’s belly with thin string, allowing the skin sufficient play not to tear under the pressure of the forcemeat, which swells while cooking. Truss, cover the pullet with a slice of larding bacon, poach, and drain it.

When about to serve, make an incision around the breast with the point of a knife; detach the stuffing with the blade of a knife, passed horizontally on a level with the spine, and cut off, at a stroke, the piece consisting of the pullet’s breast, the stuffing, and the calf’s tongue.

Dish the carcass with the legs and wings still attached, on a low cushion. Cut the breast, lengthwise, into two; and, if the fowl has been properly stuffed, the tongue should then be found neatly bisected. Slice each half, and return them to the carcass in suchwise as to reconstruct the bird and give it an untouched appearance.

Coat lightly with Allemande sauce, combined with very red tongue, cut into dice; and surround with a border of timbales made from a purée of fresh peas (No. 2196), each set on an artichoke bottom. Serve a sauceboat of the same sauce as that with which the pullet was coated.

1468 — Poularde à l’Écossaise

Stuff the pullet with pearl barley cooked in white consommé, well drained, and combined, per lb., with an equal quantity of fine sausage-meat (to which has been added a chopped onion, cooked in butter), and two tablespoonfuls of cream.

Poach the pullet in the usual way; dish it and coat it with Écossaise sauce, i.e., an Allemande sauce, combined with a brunoise of vegetables: carrots, onions, leeks, and celery, and a large part of the reduced pullet’s poaching-liquor.

Serve a garnish of French beans with cream, separately.

1469 — Poularde Édouard VII

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256, and poach it without colouration. Dish it, and coat it with a curry sauce, combined with two oz. of red capsicums in dice, per pint of sauce.

Serve a garnish of cucumbers with cream, separately.

N.B.—This dish was originated at the Carlton Hotel on the occasion of His Majesty King Edward VII.’s Coronation.

1470 — Poularde en Estouffade

Half-poële the pullet in a saucepan.

Line the bottom and sides of an oval cocotte with thin slices of ham. Put the half-poëled pullet into this cocotte, together with one lb. of carrots, onions, and celery, all three sliced, fried in butter and moderately seasoned with salt and pepper.

Swill the saucepan with one-third pint of strong veal stock; reduce to half; put this reduced stock into the cocotte; cover the latter; seal down the lid with a thread of paste, and complete the cooking of the pullet in a somewhat hot oven for three-quarters of an hour.

1471 — Poularde à l’Estragon

Poach the pullet, and add to the ordinary garnish a bunch consisting of five or six sprigs of tarragon.

Dish, and decorate the pullet’s breast with a nice spray of blanched tarragon leaves.

Reduce and strain the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and serve it separately.

1472 — Poularde à la Favorite

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256.

Poach it; dish it, and coat with a suprême sauce.

Surround with a garnish of cocks’ combs and kidneys, and slices of truffle.

1473 — Poularde à la Fermière

Prepare the pullet as for No. 1470; but, instead of lining the cocotte with slices of ham, cut the latter into dice and add these to the garnish, together with four oz. of peas and four oz. of French beans, cut into small lozenges.

1474 — Poularde à la Financière

Braise the pullet.

Dish it, and surround it with a garnish consisting of small heaps of quenelles made from chicken, mousseline forcemeat; grooved, button-mushroom heads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; slices of truffle, and blanched olives. Add a small quantity of half-glaze sauce prepared with truffle essence.

Send a sauceboat of the same sauce separately.

1475 — Poularde à la Gastronome

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of noodles, slightly tossed in butter, and poële it.

Swill the saucepan with one-quarter pint of champagne. Dish the pullet and surround it with medium-sized truffles, cooked in champagne, alternated with small heaps of cooked and glazed chestnuts, and place a cock’s kidney between each heap.

Serve, separately, a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence and combined with the reduced swilling-liquor.

1476 — Poularde à la Godard

Braise the pullet brown.

Dish it and surround it with spoon-moulded quenelles of forcemeat, combined with chopped mushrooms and truffles; large oval quenelles, decorated with tongue and truffle; grooved button-mushroom heads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; glazed small lambs’ sweetbreads; and olive-shaped truffles.

Slightly coat this garnish with Godard sauce, combined with some reduced braising-liquor, and send what remains of the latter in a sauceboat.

1477 — Poularde à la Grammont

Poach the pullet, and let it half-cool.

Now remove the suprêmes and the bones of the breast; fill up the cavity in the carcass with a garnish consisting of larks’ fillets, sautéd just before dishing; grooved button-mushroom heads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; and cohere the whole by means of Béchamel sauce, finished with truffle essence.

Slice the suprêmes, and return them to their place, setting a slice of truffle between each. Coat the pullet with a stiff Allemande sauce; sprinkle with grated Parmesan and melted butter; glaze quickly, and serve at once.

1478 — Poularde Grand Hôtel

Cut up the fowl as for a sauté dish, and cook it in butter, under cover. Then set the pieces in a very hot cocotte, and distribute thereupon five oz. of raw truffles cut into thick slices and slightly salted and peppered.

Swill the sautépan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine; add a little chicken stock; pour this liquor into the cocotte; thoroughly close the latter, and put it in a very hot oven for eight or ten minutes with the view of cooking the truffles.

Serve the preparation as it stands in the cocotte.

N.B.—This dish was invented at the Grand Hotel at Monte Carlo, as a means of offering to those who could not wait for the preparation of truffled pullets a substitute of a somewhat similar nature to the latter.

1479 — Poularde au Gros Sel

Poach the pullet, and add to it ten small olive-shaped carrots and ten small onions.

Dish, and surround the bird with the carrots and the onions, arranged in small heaps.

Serve, separately, a sauceboat containing the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and a cellar of kitchen salt.

1480 — Poularde à la Grecque

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2253, and poële it.

Dish it, and coat it with very strong reduced chicken stock, thickened by means of arrowroot.

1481 — Poularde à la Hongroise

Poële the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with Hongroise sauce, and surround it with timbales of pilaff rice, combined with tomato pulp, cut into dice.

Send a Hongroise sauce separately.

1482 — Poularde aux Huîtres

Boil the pullet gently in light, white stock, until it is well cooked. With the cooking-liquor prepare a suprême sauce, and add thereto the almost entirely reduced poaching-liquor of twenty-four oysters, one-half pint of cream, and the twenty-four oysters (cleared of their beards).

Dish the pullet, and pour this sauce over it.

1483 — Poularde à l’Indienne

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; coat with Indienne sauce, and serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne, prepared after recipe No. 2254, separately.

1484 — Poularde Isabelle de France

Stuff the pullet with rizotto, combined with two oz. of truffle slices and eighteen crayfishes’ tails, and poach it in white stock containing one bottle of Chablis wine.

With the pullet’s cooking-liquor prepare a highly-seasoned suprême sauce. Dish the bird on a small cushion; coat it with sauce, and surround it with fine black truffles, cooked in champagne, and set each on a small, round, and slightly hollowed croûton of fried bread.

Serve the remainder of the sauce separately.

1485 — Poularde à l’Ivoire

Poach the pullet, keeping it very white. Dish it, and serve it plain.

Send, separately, an ivory sauce, a sauceboat of the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and some kind of garnish, such as macaroni or noodles with cream cèpes, cucumber, &c.

1486 — Poularde Lady Curzon

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256, and poach it.

Dish it, and coat it with an Indienne sauce.

A garnish of cèpes or cucumber with cream may be served at the same time.

1487 — Poularde Louise D’Orléans

Insert a whole foie gras into the pullet, the former having been studded with truffles, poached for fifteen minutes in some succulent veal stock, and one glassful of old Madeira, and afterwards cooled.

Stiffen and colour the pullet for twenty minutes in the oven, sprinkling it with butter the while.

Cover it entirely with thick slices of truffles; cover these with slices of bacon, and envelop the whole in a layer of plain dough, which should be well sealed up. Set the pullet, prepared in this way, on a baking-tray; make a slit in the top of the paste for the escape of steam during the cooking process, and cook in a moderate oven for one and three-quarter hours.

This pullet is served as it stands, cold or hot.

1488 — Poularde à la Louisiane

Stuff the pullet with one lb. of maize with cream, combined with one and one-half oz. of capsicums cut into dice, and poële it. Dish it and border it, on either side, with timbales of rice and fried bananas, arranged alternately. At either end of the dish set a croustade of lining paste, garnished with maize “à la crème.”

1489 — Poularde à la Lucullus

Braise the pullet.

Dish it, and surround it with (1) fine truffles, cooked in champagne, alternated with (2) large, round quenelles of mousseline forcemeat. At either end of the dish, which should be oval, set a small silver shell of the same height as the cushion on which the pullet lies.

Garnish these shells with very white, curled cocks’ combs and cocks’ kidneys. Add the reduced braising-liquor to a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence; cover the bottom of the dish with some of this sauce, and send what remains, separately, in a sauceboat.

1490 — Poularde à la Mancini

Poach the pullet.

Remove the suprêmes; suppress the bones of the breast without touching either the pinions or the legs, and set the carcass, thus prepared, on a very low cushion of bread or rice, so that it may be steady.

Fill the carcass with macaroni, cohered with cheese and cream, and combined with three oz. of foie gras in dice, and one-half oz. of a julienne of truffles.

Slice the suprêmes, and reconstruct them on the macaroni, placing a fine slice of truffle between each. Coat the pullet with a stiff and unctuous cream sauce; sprinkle with grated cheese, and glaze quickly at the salamander.

Serve separately a creamy suprême sauce.

1491 — Poularde Marguerite de Savoie

Fry quickly ten larks in butter, insert these into a fine pullet, and braise the latter in veal stock and white Savoy wine, in equal quantities. Prepare a milk polenta (No. 2294); spread it on a tray in layers one inch thick, and let it cool. Now stamp it with a round cutter one and one-half inches in diameter, and, a few minutes before serving, dredge these roundels of polenta, and brown them in clarified butter.

Just before dishing up, sprinkle them with grated Parmesan, and glaze them quickly at the salamander.

Dish the pullet on a very low cushion of fried bread; surround it with the glazed roundels of polenta; pour a little of the fowl’s cooking-liquor, thickened, over the dish, and send what remains of it in a sauceboat.

Serve at the same time a vegetable-dish of white Piedmont truffles, slightly heated in a little butter and some consommé.

1492 — Poularde à la Ménagère

Poach the pullet in some rather gelatinous white stock. Slice six carrots, six new potatoes, six new onions; put the whole into a saucepan, and cook gently in the fowl’s poaching-liquor, with the lid of the saucepan off. When the vegetables are cooked, and the liquor is sufficiently reduced, set the pullet in a special oval cocotte, and cover it with the prepared vegetables and their cooking-liquor.

1493 — Poularde Mireille

Poële the pullet.

Dish it; surround it with small timbales of rice with saffron, alternated with tartlet crusts, garnished with concassed tomatoes cooked in butter, and set a fine, stoned olive on each tartlet.

Serve a tomato sauce separately.

1494 — Poularde à la Montbazon

Stud the pullet with truffles, and poach it.

Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it with poached lamb sweetbreads, spoon-moulded quenelles of mousseline, chicken forcemeat, and grooved mushroom heads, arranged alternately.

Serve a suprême sauce separately.

1495 — Poularde à la Monte Carlo

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it on the one side with quenelles of pink, mousseline, chicken forcemeat, and on the other with a border of fair-sized, very black truffles.

1496 — Poularde à la Montmorency

Lard the pullet with truffles, and braise it in Madeira.

Set it on an oval dish, and, at either end of the latter, place a fine, decorated quenelle; on either side of the fowl arrange some artichoke-bottoms, garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

Serve separately a half-glaze sauce with Madeira, to which the braising-liquor of the pullet has been added.

1497 — Poularde à la Nantua

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with a suprême sauce, finished with crayfish butter, and surround it with small heaps of quenelles with crayfish butter, crayfishes’ tails, and slices of truffle.

1498 — Poularde à l’Orientale

Stuff the pullet with one lb. of pilaff rice with saffron, and poach it.

Remove its suprêmes; suppress the breast-bones by means of scissors, without touching the rice, and coat the latter with Béchamel sauce coloured with tomato sauce and flavoured with saffron.

Dish; reconstruct the sliced suprêmes on the rice, and set between each slice another of chow-chow stewed in butter. Cover the pullet with the same sauce as that indicated above, and surround it with quarters of chow-chow cooked in butter, or serve this garnish separately.

1499 — Poularde aux Œufs D’Or

Poële the pullet without letting it acquire overmuch colour.

Strain the poëling-liquor; clear it of all grease; add thereto a little tomato purée, and thicken it with arrowroot. Finish with three oz. of butter, the juice of half a lemon, and a little cayenne.

Dish the pullet; surround it with a border of egg-shaped croquettes of egg with truffles, and send the sauce separately.

1500 — Poularde à la Parisienne

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; cover it with Allemande sauce, and decorate it on top with slices of truffles and salted tongue cut to the shape of cocks’ combs.

Surround with spoon-moulded quenelles of chicken forcemeat, half of which should have been combined with chopped truffles, and the other half with chopped, salted ox-tongue.

Arrange the quenelles round the fowl, alternately, and border the dish with a thread of pale glaze.

1501 — Poularde Adelina Patti

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256, and poach it in white, chicken stock. Dish it on a low cushion; cover it with a suprême sauce, flavoured with paprika, and surround it with fair-sized artichoke-bottoms, each garnished with a fine truffle, coated with pale meat glaze.

Serve separately a sauceboat of the same sauce as that already used in coating the pullet.

1502 — Poularde à la Paysanne

Brown the pullet in butter, and put it into an oval cocotte.

Around it set a garnish consisting of four oz. of the red part of a carrot, three oz. of onion, and two oz. of celery, all three minced somewhat finely. Complete the cooking of the pullet with the vegetables, sprinkling it often the while with good veal stock.

Serve the preparation as it stands in the cocotte.

1503 — Poularde à la Périgord

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of truffles in the shape of large olives, cooked in two oz. of melted pork fat, and mixed, while hot, with one lb. of fresh, grated pork fat, rubbed through a sieve. String the piece, taking care to close all its openings, and poële it gently.

Dish it; coat it with a very fine half-glaze sauce, made from the poëling-liquor and finished with truffle essence.

1504 — Poularde Petite Mariée

Poach the pullet in a little white stock, and surround it (when setting it to cook) with six small new onions, six small carrots, six small new potatoes, and one-quarter pint of freshly-shelled peas.

Set the pullet in a cocotte with the garnish of vegetables, and coat it with its reduced cooking-liquor, combined with some excellent suprême sauce.

1505 — Poularde à la Piémontaise

Stuff the pullet with two-thirds lb. of rizotto combined with one-half lb. of white sliced truffles, and poële it in the usual way.

Dish it, and serve at the same time a thickened chicken gravy to which has been added the reduced poëling-liquor.

1506 — Poularde à la Portugaise

Stuff the pullet with three-quarters lb. of rice, combined with five oz. of peeled and concassed tomatoes, cooked in butter.

Poële the pullet. Dish it; coat it with a Portugaise sauce, combined with the poëling-liquor, and surround it with a garnish of medium-sized tomatoes, stuffed with rice “à la Portugaise.”

1507 — Poularde Princesse

Poach the pullet.

Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence and finished with two oz. of asparagus-head butter per pint of sauce. Surround it with croustades of Duchesse potatoes, rolled in breadcrumbs and melted butter, fried, emptied, then garnished with asparagus-heads cohered with butter, and each surmounted by a fine slice of truffle. Between each croustade set a faggot of very green asparagus-heads.

1508 — Poularde Princesse Hélène

Stuff the pullet with rice prepared after recipe (No. 2256), and poach it. Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it with spinach subrics, cooked at the last moment; add to this garnish some shavings of white truffles, barely heated in butter, and set in a shell placed behind the fowl.

1509 — Poularde Régence

Stuff the pullet with one lb. of mousseline forcemeat of chicken, combined with three oz. of crayfish purée, and poach it.

Dish it; coat it with Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, and surround it with the following garnish, arranged in small heaps:—Spoon-moulded quenelles of mousseline, chicken forcemeat; white, curled, cocks’ combs; slices of raw foie gras, stamped out with a round cutter, and tossed in butter; small, grooved, cooked, and very white mushrooms; olive-shaped truffles, and one round quenelle decorated with truffles at either end of the dish.

1510 — Poularde de la Reine Anne

Poële the pullet.

When it is ready, remove the suprêmes and the breast bones, and fill the carcass with a garnish of macaroni and cream, combined with foie gras and truffle dice. Cover the macaroni with Mornay sauce; glaze quickly, and dish the pullet on a low cushion.

Surround it with small tartlet crusts garnished with cocks’ combs and kidneys, cohered with Allemande sauce, and set a slice of the suprêmes on each tartlet. Put a silver shell containing a pyramid of truffles behind the fowl.

Serve an Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, separately.

1511 — Poularde Reine Margot

Stuff the pullet with two-thirds lb. of mousseline forcemeat of chicken, combined with two oz. of almond purée, and poach it.

Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, finished with a little almond milk, and surround it with quenelles prepared with pistachio butter and quenelles prepared with crayfish butter, arranged alternately.

1512 — Poularde Reine Marguerite

Poach the pullet.

Remove the suprêmes and the breast bone, without touching either the wings or the legs, and set the carcass, thus trimmed, on a low cushion of bread or rice. Finely slice the suprêmes; add as many slices of truffle as there are collops of suprêmes, and combine the whole with a soufflé preparation with Parmesan, which should not be too light.

1513 — Poularde au Riz

Poach the pullet.

Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce, flavoured with chicken essence. Surround it with a garnish of rice, cooked in the pullet’s poaching-liquor, and moulded in small, buttered, timbale moulds.

1514 — Poularde Rossini

Poële the pullet.

Remove the suprêmes; slice them, and dish them in the form of a crown upon a round dish, alternating them with collops of foie gras, tossed in butter. Pour a very strong chicken stock finished with truffle essence in their midst.

Serve, separately, a timbale of noodles with butter covered with raw noodles tossed in butter.

1515 — Poularde Sainte Alliance

Heat in butter ten fine truffles seasoned with salt and pepper; sprinkle them with a glassful of excellent Madeira, and leave them to cool thus in a thoroughly sealed utensil. Now put these truffles into a fine pullet, and poële it just in time for it to be sent to the table.

When the pullet is ready, quickly cook as many ortolans, and toss in butter as many collops of foie gras as there are diners, and send them to the table at the same time as the pullet, together with the latter’s poëling-liquor, strained and in a sauceboat.

The waiter in charge should be ready for it with three assistants at hand, and he should have a very hot chafer on the sideboard. The moment it arrives he quickly removes the suprêmes, cuts them into slices, and sets each one of these upon a collop of foie gras, which assistant No. 1 has placed ready on a plate, together with one of the truffles inserted into the pullet at the start.

Assistant No. 2, to whom the plate is handed forthwith, adds an ortolan and a little juice, and then assistant No. 3 straightway places the plate before the diner.

The pullet is thus served very quickly, and in such wise as to render it a dish of very exceptional gastronomical quality.

N.B.—The name “Sainte Alliance” which I give to this dish (a name that Brillat-Savarin employs in his “Physiology of Taste” in order to identify a certain famous toast) struck me as an admirable title for a preparation in which four such veritable gems of cookery are found united—the suprêmes of a fine pullet, foie gras, truffles, and ortolans.

This dish was originally served at the Carlton Hotel in 1905.

1516 — Poularde Santa-Lucia

Stuff the pullet with truffles, prepared as for No. 1515, and braise it in Marsala. Dish it on a low cushion, and surround it with small tartlets of Gnochi “à la Romaine,” alternated with collops of foie gras, tossed in butter.

1517 — Poularde Sicilienne

Poach the pullet.

Raise the fillets, leaving the wing-bones on the carcass; suppress the breast bones, and fill the resulting cavity with macaroni, cohered with the strong liquor of braised beef “à la Napolitaine,” and combined with dice of truffles and foie gras, cocks’ combs and kidneys.

Envelop the piece in pig’s caul, giving the former its natural shape; sprinkle with raspings and melted butter, and set in the oven that the pig’s caul may cook and colour.

Dish on a low cushion, and coat with chicken glaze with butter.

Surround with tartlet crusts, each garnished with a slice of the suprêmes, covered with a slice of foie gras tossed in butter, and surmounted by a slice of truffle.

Send a chicken glaze with butter separately.

1518 — Poularde Soufflée

Poach the pullet.

Raise the suprêmes, and cut them into thin slices; suppress the breast-bones by means of scissors, and stuff the bird with one lb. two oz. of mousseline forcemeat of chicken, combined with one-third lb. of foie-gras purée. Spread this preparation in layers, and between each of the latter set alternate slices of suprême and truffle.

Reconstruct the bird exactly; smooth its surface; deck it with bits of truffle, salted tongue, and boiled white of egg; place the dish on a deep tray containing a little boiling water, the steam of which assists the poaching of the preparation, and poach in a moderate oven.

When about to serve, coat the pullet with Allemande sauce flavoured with truffle essence.

N.B.—The use of a bain-marie consisting of a deep pan containing boiling water, wherein the dish which holds the pullet is placed, is highly recommended, but the ideal method of poaching this sort of preparations is by means of a steamer.

1519 — Poularde Stanley

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of rice, three oz. of mushrooms, and three oz. of a julienne of truffles. Poach it with one lb. two oz. of sliced and blanched onions, seasoned with a pinch of curry. When the pullet is ready, rub the cooking-liquor and the onions through tammy. Add one-third pint of Velouté and one-third pint of cream to this cullis; reduce to a stiff consistence; rub once more through tammy, and finish with one-sixth pint of cream.

1520 — Poularde Souvaroff

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of foie gras and five oz. of truffles cut into large dice, and three-parts poële it.

Now put it into a cocotte with ten fair-sized truffles stewed in Madeira for a few minutes in the same saucepan as that in which the pullet was poëled. Moisten with one-sixth pint of veal stock; close the cocotte; seal the cover with a thread of paste, and complete the cooking in a moderate oven for thirty minutes.

Serve the fowl as it stands in the cocotte.

1521 — Poularde Sylvana

Stuff the pullet with one lb. of mushrooms, tossed in brown butter, and half-brown it in the oven.

Meanwhile put one pint of fresh peas into a saucepan, together with ten small new onions, one small lettuce cut julienne-fashion, and a faggot consisting of parsley stalks, chervil, and a sprig of mint. Add salt, sugar, two oz. of butter, and mix the whole up together.

Moisten with two small tablespoonfuls of water; cover and half-cook, taking care to toss from time to time during the operation. When the pullet is half-cooked, put it into a cocotte lined with a thin layer of paste, overreaching the edges of the cocotte by about two inches.

Surround it with a garnish of peas; cover it with a slice of bacon, and close the cocotte with its cover. Draw the overlapping paste over the latter; seal it down with some white of egg, that it may be hermetically closed, and set in the oven for about forty-five minutes.

Serve the preparation as it stands in the cocotte. A sauceboat of good chicken gravy may be served separately.

1522 — Poularde Talleyrand

Poële the pullet; raise the suprêmes, and cut these into large dice. Mix them with an equal quantity of macaroni, cut short, and thickened with cream sauce combined with Parmesan, and add enough foie gras and truffles, cut into large dice, to equal half the weight of the suprêmes.

Suppress the breast-bones; fill the fowl with the above preparation, and cover the latter with a layer of mousseline forcemeat, reconstructing the bird naturally in so doing. Deck the surface with a crown of truffle slices; cover with buttered paper, and set in the oven (1) to poach the forcemeat, (2) to thoroughly heat the preparation beneath.

Dish the pullet; pour a little half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence and combined with slices of truffle, over the dish, and serve what remains of the sauce separately.

1523 — Poularde Tosca

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after No. 2256, and poële it in short moistening. Dish it on a low cushion of fried bread, and surround it with a garnish of braised, tuberous fennel-roots.

Send the pullet’s poëling liquor separately, after having reduced and finished it with butter.

1524 — Poularde Toulousaine

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence, and surround it with the following garnish, arranged in heaps:—Quenelles of mousseline chicken forcemeat; slices of poached, veal sweetbreads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; cooked and very white button-mushroom heads, and slices of truffle.

Serve an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence, separately.

1525 — Poularde Trianon

Poach the pullet.

Dish it, and surround it with quenelles of chicken forcemeat, stuffed with foie-gras purée. Arrange these quenelles in heaps, and set a nice, whole truffle between each heap.

Pierce the pullet with a hatelet, garnished with one grooved mushroom, one fair-sized glazed truffle, and a quenelle decorated with salted tongue.

Serve a suprême sauce at the same time.

1526 — Poularde Valencienne

Poële the pullet.

Dish it, and surround it with a garnish of rizotto, combined with ham dice. Set a crown of grilled slices of ham upon the rizotto.

Serve a well-seasoned tomatéd suprême sauce separately.

1527 — Poularde au Vert-Pré

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with a suprême sauce, finished with printanier butter (No. 157), in the proportion of two oz. per pint of sauce; and surround it with a garnish consisting of peas, French beans, and asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

1528 — Poularde Vichy

Stuff the pullet with ordinary pilaff rice, and braise it white. Dish it, coat it with a suprême sauce, combined with the reduced braising-liquor, and surround with small tartlet crusts, garnished with carrots à la Vichy.

1529 — Poularde Victoria

Stuff the pullet with truffles and foie gras, and three-parts poële it, exactly as directed under “Poularde Souvaroff.”

Put it into a cocotte with one lb. of potatoes, cut into large dice and tossed in butter, and complete its cooking and that of the potatoes in the oven.

1530 — Poularde Washington

Stuff the pullet with ten oz. of green maize, three-parts cooked, and combined with one chopped onion cooked in butter and three oz. of good sausage-meat, fried in butter for one moment with the onion. Braise the pullet, and glaze it at the last minute.

Serve separately and at the same time a timbale of maize with cream.

1531 — Chapon Fin aux Perles du Périgord

Stuff the capon with fine truffles, and envelop it in very thin slices of cushion of veal. Braise it with best liqueur-brandy.

Dish and serve separately (1) the braising liquor in a sauceboat; (2) a timbale of cardoons with gravy.

1532 — Poulets Sautés

As I pointed out at the beginning of Part V. of this chapter, the chickens best suited to the sauté treatment are those termed “à la Reine”; they should be of medium size, very fleshy, and tender.

In an extreme case, small pullets or large chickens might be used, but neither of these are so eminently suited to the procedure in question as chickens “à la Reine.”

The fowl which is to be sautéd should be cut up thus: after having emptied, singed, and thoroughly cleaned it; cut off its legs—quite a simple matter, since all that is necessary is the disjunction of the thigh-bones, after having cut the skin. Cut off the claws just below the joint of the tibia, and pare the spurs. Now cut the tibia above the joint, and remove the thigh-bone.

Cut the pinions at the first joint; remove the wings, after having cut round a portion of the breast in such wise that each wing holds one half of it; finally detach the centrepiece or breast-bone, which should be left whole if the fowl be small and cut into two if it be otherwise.

The carcass thus remains. Cut it into two, and trim each piece on both sides.

Before setting them to cook, moderately season the pieces of fowl with salt and pepper. Whatever the demands of a particular recipe may be, the preparatory principle of sautéd chickens is always as follows:—

Take a sautépan just large enough to hold the pieces of fowl, and heat therein two oz. of clarified butter; or, according to circumstances, half butter and half good oil. When the selected fat is quite hot, insert the pieces of fowl; let them colour quickly, and turn them over from time to time, that they may do so evenly. Now cover the utensil, and put it in a sufficiently hot oven to ensure the complete cooking of the fowl. Some tender pieces, such as the wings and the breast, should be withdrawn after a few minutes have elapsed, and kept warm; but the legs, the meat of which is firmer and thicker, should cook seven or eight minutes more at least.

When all the pieces are cooked, withdraw them; drain away their butter, and swill the sautépan with the prescribed liquor, which is either some kind of wine, mushroom cooking-liquor, or chicken stock, &c. This swilling forms, as I have already pointed out, an essential part of the procedure, inasmuch as its object is to dissolve those portions of solidified gravy which adhere to the bottom of the sautépan.

Reduce the swilling-liquor to half, and add thereto the sauce given in the recipe. Put the pieces of carcass, the claws, the pinions and the legs into this sauce, and simmer for a few minutes. The other pieces, i.e., the wings and breast, are then added, but when the sauce is sufficiently reduced, it must stop boiling. When the pieces are completely cooked, it is obviously unnecessary for the sauce to boil, since the former would only be hardened thereby.

A few minutes before serving, put the pieces into a deep entrée dish (fitted with a cover) in the following order:—The pieces of carcass, the claws and the pinions on the bottom of the dish, upon these the legs and the breast, and, last of all, the wings.

The sauce is then finished according to the directions of the recipe, and is poured over the pieces of fowl.

Some chickens are prepared without colouration—that is to say, the pieces are merely stiffened in butter without browning, and their cooking is completed in the oven as above. In this case the swilling-liquor is invariably white, as also the supplementary sauces, and the latter are finished with cream.

1533 — Poulet Sauté Archiduc

Fry the pieces of fowl without colouration, i.e., merely stiffen them. Add four oz. of onions, previously cooked in butter, and complete the cooking of the onions and the fowl together.

Withdraw the pieces; dish them; cover the dish, and keep it hot. Moisten the onions with a small glassful of liqueur brandy; reduce the latter; add thereto one-sixth pint of cream and one-sixth pint of velouté, and rub through tammy.

Reduce this sauce to a stiff consistence; finish it, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter, the juice of the quarter of a lemon, and a tablespoonful of Madeira, and pour it over the fowl.

Set about ten slices of truffle on the latter, and serve.

1534 — Poulet Sauté Arlésienne

Sauté the chicken in oil, and withdraw the pieces.

Swill with one-quarter pint of white wine; add a piece of crushed garlic as large as a pea, one-sixth pint of tomatéd half-glaze sauce, and reduce by a third. Dish the chicken, and surround with alternate heaps of onion and egg-plant roundels, seasoned, dredged, and fried in oil, and concassed tomatoes cooked in butter.

1535 — Poulet Sauté Armagnac

Cook the pieces of chicken in butter without colouration; add thereto three and one-half oz. of raw slices of truffle, and dish in a shallow cocotte.

Swill with a small glassful of old liqueur brandy; add a few drops of lemon juice and one-sixth pint of cream; heat; finish this sauce, away from the fire, with two oz. of crayfish butter, and pour it over the fowl.

Serve in the cocotte.

1536 — Poulet Sauté D’Artois

Sauté the chicken in butter, and dish the pieces.

Swill with three tablespoonfuls of Madeira, and add one-seventh pint of light, pale meat glaze, four small quartered artichoke-bottoms, tossed in butter, ten carrots shaped like olives, cooked in consommé and glazed, and eight small onions cooked in butter.

Finish with one and one-half oz. of butter and a pinch of chopped chives, and pour this sauce over the pieces of fowl.

1537 — Poulet Sauté Beaulieu

Sauté the chicken in butter, and add to it five oz. of new potatoes (the size of hazel-nuts) and the same quantity of small quartered artichoke-bottoms, cooked in butter beforehand with the potatoes.

Keep the whole in the oven, under cover, for ten minutes.

Set the pieces of fowl, the potatoes and the artichoke-bottoms in an earthenware saucepan, and add twelve black olives.

Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine and a little lemon juice; complete with a tablespoonful of veal stock, and pour into the cocotte.

Simmer for five minutes, in the utensil, and serve the preparation as it stands.

1538 — Poulet Sauté Bordelaise

Sauté the chicken in butter, and dish it. Surround it with small quartered artichoke-bottoms stewed in butter; sliced potatoes cooked in butter, and roundels of fried onions, arranged in small heaps, with a small tuft of fried parsley between each heap.

Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of chicken gravy, and sprinkle the fowl with the latter.

1539 — Poulet Sauté Boivin

Fry the chicken in butter and add twelve small onions; three quartered artichokes, small and very tender; twenty-four small potatoes of the size of hazel-nuts. Cover and cook the whole together, in the oven.

Dish the chicken with the onions and potatoes over it, and surround it with the artichokes.

1540 — Poulet Sauté Bretonne

Stiffen the pieces without colouring them, and add thereto three oz. of the white of a leek and the half of an onion, both sliced and stewed in butter beforehand. Cover and set in the oven.

About five minutes before the fowl is quite cooked, add three oz. of mushrooms, minced raw and tossed in butter.

Dish the pullet, add one-sixth pint of suprême sauce and as much cream to the vegetables; reduce to half, and pour the sauce and the vegetables over the chicken.

1541 — Poulet Sauté aux Cèpes

Sauté the chicken in oil. When it is cooked, drain away the oil, dish it; heat three chopped shallots in the sautépan; swill with one-quarter pint of white wine; reduce, and complete with one and one-half oz. of butter.

Pour this sauce over the chicken, and surround the latter with eight oz. of cèpes, sautéd à la Bordelaise.

Sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over the chicken.

1542 — Poulet Sauté Champeaux

Sauté the chicken in butter; dish it, and surround it with small onions and potatoes (the size of hazel-nuts), both cooked in butter beforehand. Swill with a little white wine; add one-sixth pint of veal gravy and one tablespoonful of meat glaze; reduce; finish with one and one-half oz. of butter; and pour this sauce over the chicken.

1543 — Poulet Sauté Chasseur

Sauté the chicken in equal quantities of butter and oil, and dish it. Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine, and reduce; add one-quarter, pint of Chasseur Sauce Escoffier; heat; pour over the chicken, and sprinkle the latter with a pinch of concassed parsley.

1544 — Poulet Sauté Cynthia

Sauté the chicken in butter and dish it.

Swill the saucepan with a glass of dry champagne; reduce to half; add one tablespoonful of light poultry glaze; finish with two and one-half oz. of butter, the juice of half a lemon, and one tablespoonful of dry curaçao; pour this sauce over the chicken.

1545 — Poulet Sauté Demidoff

Colour the chicken in butter; add the vegetable garnish given for “Poularde à la Demidoff” (1464), and put the two to stew in the oven. About ten minutes before the cooking is completed, add two oz. of truffles, cut to the shape of crescents like the carrots and turnips, and three tablespoonfuls of good veal stock.

Dish the pieces of chicken, and cover them with the garnish.

1546 — Poulet Sauté à la Doria

Colour the pieces of chicken in oil and butter; add thereto one-half lb. of cucumber cut to the shape of garlic cloves; and complete the cooking by stewing in the oven.

Dish the chicken with the cucumber upon it. Swill the saucepan with one tablespoonful of veal gravy and a few drops of lemon juice; and sprinkle the chicken and its garnish with this swilling-liquor, to which add one and one-half oz. of brown butter.

1547 — Poulet Sauté à la Durand

Dredge the seasoned pieces of chicken, and toss them in oil.

Dish them in the form of a crown; garnish their midst with a fine heap of roundels of fried onion; and, in the centre of the latter, set a cone, made from a very thin slice of ham and filled with concassed tomatoes cooked in butter.

1548 — Poulet Sauté à l’Égyptienne

Colour the pieces of chicken in oil. Toss in oil, together, three oz. of onion, and two oz. of mushrooms, sliced; and six oz. of raw ham, cut into dice.

Set the pieces of chicken in a cocotte, alternating them with the garnish, which should have been well-drained; cover with two tomatoes, cut into thick slices; cover the cocotte, and complete the cooking in the oven for twenty minutes.

When about to serve, sprinkle with a tablespoonful of veal stock.

1549 — Poulet Sauté à l’Espagnole

Sauté the chicken in oil. Drain the latter away, and add one-half lb. of pilaff rice, combined with one and one-half oz. of capsicums in dice; three oz. of large green peas, cooked à l’anglaise, and two sliced and poached sausages.

Dish the chicken; cover it with the garnish, and surround it with six small grilled tomatoes.

1550 — Poulet Sauté à l’Estragon

Toss the chicken in butter, and dish it.

Swill the sautépan with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce to half; add one-sixth pint of gravy in which tarragon has been infused, and thicken with arrowroot.

Pour this sauce over the chicken, and decorate its wings with sprays of parboiled tarragon leaves.

1551 — Poulet Sauté Fedora

Sauté the chicken in butter, without colouration, with four oz. of raw, sliced truffles; and dish.

Swill with one-sixth pint of cream; add three tablespoonfuls of Béchamel sauce, and reduce to half. Finish, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of crayfish butter, a few drops of lemon juice, and a little cayenne; add four oz. of parboiled asparagus-heads to this sauce, and pour it over the chicken. Or, after having cohered them with butter, the asparagus-heads may be arranged in heaps round the fowl.

1552 — Poulet Sauté au Fenouil

Sauté the chicken in butter, without colouration; swill with cream; add three quartered tuberose fennels, trimmed to the shape of garlic cloves and parboiled, and complete the cooking of the fennels and the chicken, together.

Set the pieces of fennel in the form of a crown on a special earthenware dish, and put the chicken in their midst, placing the pieces side by side. Coat with Mornay sauce, flavoured with chicken essence, and set to glaze.

1553 — Poulet Sauté à la Fermière

Slice three oz. of the red part of a carrot, the same quantity of turnip, two oz. of celery, and half an onion. Season with a little salt and sugar, and half-stew in butter.

Brown the pieces of chicken in butter; put them in the cocotte with the garnish of vegetables; add thereto two and one-half oz. of ham cut into dice, and complete the cooking of both the chicken and the vegetables, in the oven.

When about to serve, sprinkle with four or five tablespoonfuls of veal stock.

1554 — Poulet Sauté aux Fines Herbes

Sauté the chicken in butter, and two minutes before dishing it, sprinkle it with one-half oz. of chopped shallots. Swill the sautépan with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce; add three tablespoonfuls of strong, veal gravy and as much half-glaze sauce; and finish the sauce, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter and a coffeespoonful of chopped parsley, chervil, and tarragon. Pour it over the chicken.

1555 — Poulet Sauté Forestière

Sauté the chicken in butter; sprinkle it with a tablespoonful of chopped shallots; add five oz. of quartered morels; stew in the oven for ten minutes, and dish the chicken.

Swill with white wine; add one-sixth pint of veal stock; reduce, and pour over the chicken with the morels. Surround with four small heaps of potatoes, cut into large dice and tossed in butter; put a rectangle of frizzled bacon between each heap, and sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over the chicken.

1556 — Poulet Sauté Gabrielle

Sauté the chicken in butter, without colouration, and dish it.

Swill with one-eighth pint of mushroom cooking-liquor; add three tablespoonfuls of Béchamel sauce, and three tablespoonfuls of cream; reduce, and finish the sauce, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter.

Pour this sauce over the chicken; sprinkle on it some very black truffle, cut julienne-fashion, and surround it with little leaves of puff-paste, baked white.

1557 — Poulet Sauté Georgina

Sauté the pullet in butter with twelve small new onions and a small faggot, containing a sprig of fennel. Dish the chicken.

Swill with three tablespoonfuls of mushroom cooking-liquor and as much Rhine wine; add one-fifth pint of cream; twelve mushroom-heads, sliced; and reduce the cream to half.

Complete with a pinch of chopped chervil and tarragon, and pour over the chicken.

1558 — Poulet Sauté Hongroise

Prepare a sufficient quantity of pilaff rice, combined with concassed tomatoes, to make a border.

Sauté the chicken in butter, without colouration, with a chopped half-onion and a little paprika. When the onion is slightly coloured, add three peeled and quartered tomatoes, and complete the cooking of the whole. Mould the rice to form a border, and set the chicken in the middle.

Add one-sixth pint of cream to the tomatoes; reduce to half; rub through tammy; heat this sauce, and pour it over the chicken.

1559 — Poulet Sauté à l’Indienne Ou Currie de Poulet

Cut the chicken into small pieces, and fry them in oil with a sliced onion and a large pinch of curry. Swill with one-sixth pint of cocoanut milk or, failing this, almond milk; add one-third pint of velouté, and complete the cooking of the chicken while reducing the sauce to half. Set in a deep dish, and serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne separately.

1560 — Poulet Sauté Japonaise

Fry the chicken in butter; add one lb. of cleaned and parboiled stachys and complete the cooking of the whole, chicken and stachys, in the oven.

Dish the chicken with the stachys upon it. Swill with one-sixth pint of slightly thickened veal stock; complete, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour this over the chicken.

1561 — Poulet Sauté Jurassienne

Sauté the chicken in butter and, when it is ready, add to it one-half lb. of blanched breast of fresh pork, cut into strips and well fried in butter. Drain away three-quarters of the chicken’s grease; swill with one-sixth pint of light half-glaze sauce, and dish the chicken.

Complete the sauce with a pinch of chopped chives, and pour it over the chicken with the strips of bacon.

1562 — Poulet Sauté Lathuile

Heat three oz. of butter in a sautépan, just large enough to hold the chicken and its garnish. Set the pieces of chicken in this butter, together with one-half lb. of potatoes and five oz. of raw artichoke-bottoms, both cut into fair-sized dice.

When the chicken and the vegetables are coloured underneath, turn the whole over at one stroke and complete the cooking on the other side; sprinkle the chicken with three tablespoonfuls of meat glaze and a pinch of chopped parsley containing a mite of crushed garlic, and set the chicken and the garnish on a dish, after the manner of “Pommes Anna.”

Pour two and one-half oz. of nut-brown butter over the whole, and surround with roundels of seasoned onions, dredged and fried in oil, and very green, fried parsley, arranged in alternate heaps.

1563 — Poulet Sauté Lyonnaise

Sauté the chicken in butter and, when it is half-cooked, add three fair-sized onions, finely sliced, tossed in butter and slightly coloured.

Complete the cooking of the chicken and the onions together, and dish the former. Swill with one-sixth pint of veal gravy; reduce; pour this liquor and the onions over the chicken, and sprinkle the whole with a pinch of chopped parsley.

1564 — Poulet Sauté Marengo

Sauté the chicken in oil. Swill the sautépan with white wine; add two peeled and concassed tomatoes, or one and one-half tablespoonfuls of tomato purée, a mite of crushed garlic, ten small mushrooms, and ten slices of truffle.

Dish the chicken; cover it with sauce and garnish; surround it with heart-shaped croûtons, fried in butter; small, fried eggs, and trussed crayfish cooked in court-bouillon, and sprinkle the whole with a pinch of concassed parsley.

1565 — Poulet Sauté Maryland

Season the pieces of chicken; dip them in butter; roll them in bread-crumbs, and cook them in clarified butter. Dish, placing a slice of grilled bacon between each piece of chicken; surround with small, fried galettes of maize flour, and fried slices of banana.

Serve a horse-radish sauce with cream, separately.

1566 — Poulet Sauté Marseillaise

Sauté the chicken in oil, and, when it is half-cooked, add thereto two crushed cloves of garlic; three oz. of ciseled, green capsicums, and the same weight of quartered tomatoes—all three tossed in oil.

When the chicken is cooked, drain away the oil; swill the pan with one-sixth pint of white wine and a few drops of lemon juice, and reduce almost entirely.

Dish the chicken; cover it with the garnish, and sprinkle with a pinch of concassed parsley.

1567 — Poulet Sauté Mexicaine

Sauté the chicken in oil; swill the sautépan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine; reduce, and add one-sixth pint of tomatéd veal gravy.

1568 — Poulet Sauté Mireille

Sauté the chicken in oil and add to it, when half-cooked, one chopped onion, four concassed tomatoes, and one pimento cut into dice. Ten minutes before serving, flavour with a small piece of crushed garlic.

Dish the chicken; pour the juice of the tomatoes into the sautépan; reduce to half, and strain over the chicken.

Serve a timbale of rice, flavoured with saffron, separately.

1569 — Poulet Sauté aux Morilles

Colour the chicken in butter and three-parts cook it; add to it two-thirds lb. of morels, stewed in butter, and complete the cooking of the chicken, under cover, in the oven.

Dish the chicken with the morels upon it; swill the sautépan with a tablespoonful of brandy; add thereto the juice of the morels, two tablespoonfuls of meat glaze, and one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour this sauce over the chicken.

1570 — Poulet Sauté Normande

Half-sauté the chicken in butter, and set the pieces in a cocotte with one lb. of peeled and sliced russet apples. Swill with a small glassful of liqueur cider; put this liquor in the cocotte; cover, and set in the oven, that the chicken may be completely cooked and the apples as well.

Serve the preparation, as it stands, in the cocotte.

1571 — Poulet Sauté Parmentier

Brown the chicken in butter, and add one lb. of potatoes, raised by means of an oval spoon-cutter, or cut into large dice, and already slightly frizzled in butter.

Complete the cooking in the oven, and dish the chicken with the potatoes arranged in heaps all round. Swill with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine; add to it a tablespoonful of veal gravy; pour this over the chicken, and sprinkle the latter with a pinch of chopped parsley.

1572 — Poulet Sauté Piémontaise

Sauté the chicken in butter and dish it.

Swill with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine; add thereto a tablespoonful of melted pale meat glaze, and pour this over the chicken. Sprinkle it at the last moment with two oz. of nut-brown butter, and finally with chopped parsley, and serve a timbale of rizotto with white truffles separately.

1573 — Poulet Sauté Portugaise

Sauté the chicken in butter and oil, and dish it. Drain away a portion of the butter used in the cooking, add to the remainder a mite of crushed garlic and a chopped half-onion; and, when the latter is fried, add four oz. of peeled and concassed tomatoes, two oz. of sliced mushrooms, a few drops of white wine, and a pinch of concassed parsley.

Complete the cooking of the whole, taking care to reduce all moisture.

Cover the chicken with its garnish, and surround it with half-tomatoes or tomatoes stuffed with rice.

1574 — Poulet Sauté Provençale

Sauté the chicken in oil and dish it. Swill with white wine and add thereto a mite of crushed garlic, three oz. of concassed tomatoes, four anchovy fillets cut into dice, twelve black olives stoned and parboiled, and a pinch of chopped sweet basil.

Leave the whole to simmer for five minutes, and cover the chicken with it.

1575 — Poulet Sauté Stanley

Colour the chicken in butter, and complete its cooking under cover with one-half lb. of minced onions. Dish it in a flat, earthenware cocotte, setting a heap of mushrooms on either side of it; add one-third pint of cream to the onions; simmer for ten minutes; rub through tammy, and reduce.

Finish this sauce with one oz. of butter, a little curry, and pour it over the chicken.

Set ten slices of truffle on the latter.

1576 — Poulet Sauté aux Truffes

Half-sauté the chicken in butter; add six oz. of raw truffles, cut into slices, and complete the cooking under cover. Dish; swill with a few tablespoonfuls of Madeira; reduce; add three tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce; finish with one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour this sauce over the chicken.

1577 — Poulet Sauté van Dyck

Cook the chicken in butter without letting it brown; swill with one-sixth pint of cream; add one-sixth pint of suprême sauce, and reduce by a third.

Mix one-half lb. of young parboiled hop-sprouts to the sauce; simmer for two minutes, and pour over the chicken, which should be dished in a cocotte.

1578 — Poulet Sauté Vichy

Colour the chicken in butter; add one-half lb. of half-cooked carrots à la Vichy (No. 2061) to it, and complete the cooking of the chicken and the carrots under cover in the oven.

Swill with a few tablespoonfuls of veal stock; dish the pullet, and cover it with the garnish of carrots.

1579 — Poulet Sauté Verdi

Prepare a border of rizotto à la Piémontaise.

Sauté the chicken in butter; set it in the centre of the border, and on the latter arrange a crown of slices of foie gras, tossed in butter, alternated with slices of truffle, resting against the chicken.

Swill with Asti wine; reduce; add three tablespoonfuls of veal stock and one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour this sauce over the pieces of chicken.

1580 — Filets 1581 — Suprêmes 1582 — Côtelettes 1583 — Ailerons of Chicken

1581 — Suprêmes

1582 — Côtelettes

1583 — Ailerons of Chicken

The terms “Fillet” and “Suprême” are synonymous, and either one or the other may be used for variety to express the same thing on a menu. They are names given to the breast of the fowl, divided into two along the sternum, and cleared of all skin. Each fillet or suprême comprises the large and the minion fillets.

When suprêmes are taken from a small chicken, the minion fillets are not removed; if the chicken be an ordinary one or a pullet, the minion fillets are removed, cleared of all tendons, and twisted into rings or crescents, after having been contised with slices of truffle that are half-inserted into the little incisions, made at regular intervals in the meat with the point of a knife.

Prepared in this way, these fillets are generally included in the garnish of the suprêmes. Chicken ailerons and cutlets (the latter must not be mistaken for those prepared from cooked meat and which are only a kind of croquette) are suprêmes to which the humerus-bone of the wing is left adhering.

Cutlets are always cut from such fowls as chickens à la Reine, or very fleshy, spring chickens. The same rule applies to suprêmes: though, sometimes, the latter are cut from pullets. But, in that case, as they would be too large, they are cut into three or four very regular pieces, which are slightly flattened, and trimmed to the shape of hearts or ovals; except when they have to be stuffed.

Suprêmes and cutlets are always cooked without liquor, or almost so; for should any moistening liquid even approach the boil, it would immediately harden them. If they be desired poached, it would be best to cook the whole fowl, and cut them from the latter when it is cooked.

This is how they are prepared, according as to whether they be required colourless or sautéd; though the brown method of preparing them is applied more particularly to cutlets.

Cutlets or suprêmes sautéd: Season them with salt; roll them in flour; set them in a vegetable pan containing some very hot clarified butter, and quickly gild them on both sides. These pieces of fowl are so tender that they are cooked and gilded at the same moment of time.

Cutlets or suprêmes prepared without colouration: Season them, and set them in a vegetable-pan, containing some fresh, melted, unclarified butter. Roll the suprêmes in this butter; add a few drops of lemon juice; thoroughly seal the vegetable-pan, and put it in a very hot oven.

A few minutes suffice for the poaching of the suprêmes, which are known to be ready when they seem resilient to the touch, and are perfectly white.

Important Remarks: Chicken Suprêmes or cutlets should never be allowed to wait, lest they harden. They should be cooked quickly, at the last moment; dished and served immediately. The shortest wait is enough to spoil them, and to make an insipid and dry preparation of what should be an exquisite dish.

N.B.—The recipes given hereafter for suprêmes may of course be applied to fillets, cutlets, ailerons, blanc de poulet, &c.

1584 — Suprêmes de Volaille Agnès Sorel

Line some oval buttered tartlet-moulds with mousseline forcemeat. Upon the latter, put some raw, sliced mushrooms, tossed in butter; cover with forcemeat so as to fill the mould, and poach in the bain-marie.

Turn out in a circle on a round dish; put a poached suprême on each tartlet; coat with Allemande sauce; deck with a truffle girt by a ring of very red tongue, and surround the suprême with a thread of pale, meat glaze.

1585 — Suprêmes de Volaille Alexandra

Poach the suprêmes dry. Dish them with a few slices of truffle set upon them; coat them with Mornay sauce, flavoured with chicken essence, and glaze quickly. Surround with small heaps of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

1586 — Suprêmes de Volaille Ambassadrice

Poach the suprêmes dry. Dish them; coat them with suprême sauce, and surround them with lamb sweetbreads, studded with truffles and cooked without colouration, alternated with faggots of asparagus-heads.

1587 — Suprêmes de Volaille Arlésienne

Season and dredge the suprêmes, and toss them in clarified butter.

Meanwhile, fry in oil some egg-plant roundels and some seasoned and dredged roundels of onion. Also prepare a garnish of tomatoes tossed in oil. Dish the egg-plant roundels in a circle on a round dish; set the suprêmes thereon, and garnish the latter with the tossed tomatoes and the fried onions, set in small heaps upon them.

Serve a delicate, tomatéd half-glaze sauce separately.

1588 — Suprêmes de Volaille Boistelle

Cut the suprêmes into heart shapes, and stuff them with mousseline forcemeat combined with half its bulk of mashed raw mushrooms.

Put the suprêmes in a buttered vegetable-pan, with two-thirds lb. of peeled, minced, raw mushrooms; season with salt, white pepper and lemon juice, and set to poach slowly in a moderate oven.

Dish in the form of a crown, in a timbale, with the mushrooms in the centre.

Add to the liquor, which should only consist of the moisture of the mushrooms, two and one-half oz. of butter and a few drops of lemon juice; pour this sauce over the suprêmes, and complete with a pinch of chopped parsley.

1589 — Suprêmes de Volaille aux Champignons, a Blanc

Poach the suprêmes in a little mushroom cooking-liquor.

Dish them in the form of a crown, with some fine very white cooked mushroom-heads. Coat them moderately with Allemande sauce, combined with the cooking-liquor of the suprêmes.

Serve what remains of the sauce separately.

1590 — Suprêmes de Volaille aux Champignons, a Brun

Cook the suprêmes in clarified butter, as already described.

Dish them; surround them with mushrooms, minced raw and tossed in butter, and coat them with a light mushroom sauce.

1591 — Suprêmes de Volaille Chimay

Cook the suprêmes in clarified butter.

Dish them; garnish them with tossed morels and asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and surround with a thread of good thickened gravy.

1592 — Suprêmes de Volaille Cussy

Collop the suprêmes; slightly flatten each collop; trim them round, dredge them, and toss them in butter.

Set each collop of suprême upon an artichoke-bottom about equal in size to the former; put a thick slice of glazed truffle on each collop, and a very white cock’s kidney upon each slice of truffle.

Serve a thickened gravy separately.

1593 — Suprêmes de Volaille Doria

Season and dredge the suprêmes, and toss them quickly in clarified butter. Dish them and surround them with pieces of cucumber, shaped like garlic cloves and cooked in butter.

When about to serve, sprinkle them with a little nut-brown butter, and a few drops of lemon juice.

1594 — Suprêmes de Volaille Dreux

Make some incisions, at short intervals, in the suprêmes, and half-insert into these, alternate roundels of truffle and salted tongue. Poach them dry. Dish; surround with a garnish of cocks’ combs and kidneys, and slices of truffle, and pour a moderate quantity of Allemande sauce over this garnish.

1595 — Suprêmes de Volaille Écarlate

Incise the suprêmes as above; but garnish them only with roundels of tongue. Poach them dry, and set them on oval, flat quenelles of mousseline forcemeat, sprinkled with very red chopped tongue.

Coat with clear suprême sauce, that the red of the tongue may be seen.

1596 — Suprêmes de Volaille Écossaise

Poach the suprêmes.

Dish them; coat them with Écossaise sauce, and surround them with small heaps of French beans, cohered with butter.

1597 — Suprêmes de Volaille Favorite

Sauté the suprêmes in clarified butter.

Dish them in a crown, on tossed slices of foie gras, with three slices of truffle on each suprême.

In their midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and serve, separately, a sauceboat of light meat-glaze, buttered.

1598 — Suprêmes de Volaille Financière

Sauté the suprêmes in clarified butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown, upon fried croûtons of the same size; in their midst arrange a garnish à la financière (No. 1474), and coat the suprêmes and their garnish with financière sauce.

1599 — Suprêmes de Volaille aux Fonds D’Artichauts

Sauté the suprêmes in clarified butter.

Dish them with a garnish of raw artichoke-bottoms, sliced, tossed in butter, and sprinkled with fine herbs. Sprinkle a few drops of nut-brown butter over the suprêmes, and serve a thickened gravy separately.

1600 — Suprêmes de Volaille Georgette

Prepare as many “pommes Georgette” as there are suprêmes, and take care to choose potatoes of the same size as the suprêmes.

Poach the suprêmes. Set one on each potato, with a fine slice of truffle in the middle, and arrange in the form of a crown on a round dish.

1601 — Suprêmes de Volaille Henri IV

Collop the suprêmes; slightly flatten the collops, and trim them round. Season and dredge them; sauté them in clarified butter, and set each collop on an artichoke bottom, slightly garnished with buttered meat-glaze.

Serve a Béarnaise sauce separately.

1602 — Suprêmes de Volaille Hongroise

Prepare some pilaff rice, combined with concassed tomatoes, and dish it in a shallow timbale.

Season the suprêmes with paprika; toss them in clarified butter, and set them in a timbale, upon the pilaff rice.

Swill the vegetable-pan with a few tablespoonfuls of cream; add the necessary quantity of Hongroise sauce, and coat the suprêmes with this sauce.

1603 — Suprêmes de Volaille à l’Indienne

Sauté the suprêmes in butter, and put them for a few minutes in a curry sauce à l’Indienne, but without letting the latter boil.

Dish the suprêmes in a timbale with the curry sauce.

Serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne, separately.

1604 — Suprêmes de Volaille Jardinière

Sauté the suprêmes in butter. Dish and surround with small heaps of vegetables, arranged very neatly, as explained in the case of the Jardinière garnish.

Sprinkle the suprêmes with a few drops of nut-brown butter, just before serving.

1605 — Suprêmes de Volaille Judic

Cut the suprêmes into heart shapes; season them, and poach them dry.

Dish them in a crown, upon little braised lettuces; and set a slice of truffle and a cock’s kidney upon each heart of suprême. Coat slightly with thickened gravy.

1606 — Suprêmes de Volaille Maréchale

It is the rule that all preparations termed “à la Maréchale” should be treated with chopped truffle; that is to say that the latter takes the place of the customary bread-crumbs.

For the sake of economy the à l’anglaise treatment (i.e., egg and bread-crumbs) is more commonly applied; so the reader may choose which of the two he prefers. In any case, sauté the suprêmes in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, with a fine slice of truffle on each, and set in their midst a garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

N.B.—Formerly, these suprêmes, like all preparations “à la Maréchale,” were gently grilled upon buttered paper.

1607 — Suprêmes de Volaille Maryland

Proceed exactly as directed under “Poulet sauté à la Maryland” (No. 1565).

1608 — Suprêmes de Volaille Montpensier

Roll the suprêmes in beaten egg and bread-crumbs, and sauté them in clarified butter. Dish them in a crown with a slice of truffle upon each, and surround with small heaps of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

Sprinkle the suprêmes with a few drops of nut-brown butter.

1609 — Suprêmes de Volaille Orly

Take some suprêmes of chicken à la Reine, and set them on a dish with parsley stalks and finely sliced onions; sprinkle with a little oil and lemon juice, and set to marinade for an hour.

When about to prepare them, dry them by means of a piece of linen; dip them into light batter, and put them in a very hot frying fat that they may cook quickly.

Drain; dish on a napkin with bunches or a border of very green fried parsley, and serve a tomato sauce separately.

1610 — Suprêmes de Volaille à l’Orientale

Sauté the suprêmes in butter, and dish them each upon a thick slice of chow-chow, cut to the same shape, parboiled, and stewed in butter beforehand. Coat with Suprême sauce, combined with a quarter of its bulk of tomato purée, and flavoured moderately with saffron.

1611 — Suprêmes de Volaille en Papillote

Cut out as many heart-shaped pieces of kitchen paper as there are suprêmes, and either butter or oil them.

Quickly stiffen the suprêmes in butter. In the centre of each paper heart, set a slice of ham cut to the shape of a triangle; cover the ham with a tablespoonful of reduced Italienne sauce; set the suprêmes on the sauce, and cover it with the same sauce and another triangle of ham. Close the pieces of paper, and pleat their edges in such wise as to entirely enclose their contents; set the papillotes, thus prepared, on a tray; and put them in a sufficiently hot oven to allow of completing the cooking of the suprêmes and blowing out the papillotes.

1612 — Suprêmes de Volaille au Parmesan

Season the suprêmes; dip them in beaten egg and roll them in grated Parmesan. Sauté them in butter, and dish them on croûtons of polenta (No. 2294), shaped somewhat like the suprêmes and browned in clarified butter. When about to serve, sprinkle the suprêmes with nut-brown butter.

1613 — Suprêmes de Volaille à la Polignac

Poach the suprêmes dry, and dish them.

Coat them with Suprême sauce, combined with a julienne of truffles and mushrooms.

1614 — Suprêmes de Volaille à la Pojarski

Mince the suprêmes, and, in so doing, combine with them, first, the quarter of their weight of bread-crumbs dipped in milk and well squeezed, and the same weight of fresh butter; and then an equal quantity of fresh cream, which should be added little by little. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

Divide up this preparation into portions equal in size to the suprêmes, and shape them exactly like the latter; in short, reconstruct the suprêmes exactly with this mince-meat.

Dredge; cook in clarified butter, and serve as soon as ready.

There is no hard and fast rule for the garnishing of these suprêmes; the garnish is therefore optional.

1615 — Suprêmes de Volaille Régence

Cut the suprêmes into heart shapes; flatten them slightly, and poach them. Set each suprême on a quenelle of chicken forcemeat, prepared with crayfish butter, and dish in the form of a crown. Coat with Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, and, on each suprême, set an olive-shaped truffle and a cock’s kidney—the two separated by a cock’s comb.

1616 — Suprêmes de Volaille Richelieu

Treat the suprêmes à l’anglaise, and cook them in clarified butter.

Dish them; coat them with half-melted butter à la Maître d’hôtel, and set four fine slices of truffle on each suprême.

1617 — Suprêmes de Volaille Rossini

Sauté the suprêmes in butter, and dish them on collops of foie gras, arranged in the form of a crown and also tossed in butter. Coat with a strong Madeira sauce, combined with slices of truffle.

1618 — Suprêmes de Volaille Talleyrand

Prepare:—(1) a croustade of lining paste, of a size in proportion to the garnish to be put inside it, just as the garnish should be in proportion to the number of suprêmes:—(2) a garnish of macaroni with cream, combined with three oz. of foie gras and three oz. of truffles in dice, per one-half lb. of macaroni.

Cut the suprêmes to the shape of hearts; stuff them with godiveau with cream (No. 198), mixed with half its bulk of a purée of foie gras, and poach them dry.

Put the macaroni in the croustade, shaping it like a dome in so doing; coat the suprêmes with Allemande sauce, and set them in a crown on the timbale and round the dome of macaroni.

Send a sauceboat of velouté to the table separately.

1619 — Suprêmes de Volaille Valençay

Stuff the suprêmes with truffles, cut into small dice and cohered with very reduced Allemande sauce. Treat them à l’anglaise and cook them in butter.

Prepare some fried croûtons, shaped like cocks’ combs, in the proportion of two for each suprême; cover these with a dome of fine truffled forcemeat, and put them in a moderate oven that the forcemeat may poach.

Dish the suprêmes in the form of a crown; surround them with the croûtons; and, in their midst, pour a purée of mushrooms.

1620 — Suprêmes de Volaille à la Valois

Treat the suprêmes à l’anglaise, and cook them in clarified butter.

Dish them with a garnish of small, stoned olives, stuffed and poached at the last moment.

Serve a Valois sauce separately.

1621 — Suprêmes de Volaille Verneuil

Marinade the suprêmes as for No. 1609; treat them à l’anglaise, and cook them in clarified butter. Dish them in the form of a crown, and coat them with Colbert sauce.

Serve separately a purée of artichokes, combined with finely-minced truffles.

1622 — Suprêmes de Volaille Villeroy

Poach the suprêmes without completely cooking them.

Dip them in a Villeroy sauce, in such wise that they may be well coated with it. Leave them to cool; treat them à l’anglaise; and, a few minutes before serving, put them in some very hot frying fat. Dish them in the form of a crown, and serve a Périgueux sauce separately.

1623 — Blanc de Poulet Élisabeth

Raise the suprêmes of two small chickens; poach them in butter and lemon juice, and coat them with Suprême sauce.

Dish them around a low, very cold cushion of bread, placed on the dish at the last moment. Upon the cushion, quickly set a dozen shelled oysters, which should have been kept in ice for at least two hours before dishing.

Serve very quickly in order that the suprêmes may be very hot and the oysters very cold. Send a Suprême sauce separately.

1624 — Turban de Filets de Poulet

Take the required number of fillets, which is determined by the size of the mould to be used. Flatten these fillets out somewhat thinly, and trim them neatly on both sides.

With these fillets, line a buttered savarin-mould; setting a row of thin slices of truffle between each of the fillets, and allowing the latter to hang over the edge of the mould. Over the fillets spread a layer of mousseline forcemeat, two-thirds in. thick.

Three-parts fill the remaining space with a large tongue, truffles and mushrooms salpicon, cohered by means of a reduced Allemande sauce.

Cover this salpicon with forcemeat, so as to fill the mould, and then draw the overlapping ends of the fillets across the forcemeat.

Set to poach in the bain-marie for about forty minutes; and, upon withdrawing the mould, let it stand for five minutes, that its contents may settle. Turn out upon a round dish; pour a Toulousaine garnish (see Poularde No. 1524) in the middle, and surround the turban with a thread of Allemande sauce.

1625 — Mignonnettes de Poulet

Take the required number of small, minion fillets of pullet: trim them; make six incisions in each, and half-insert into each of these incisions alternate thin roundels of truffle and tongue.

Set these minion fillets on a buttered dish, and shape them like rings.

Trim and indent the edges of as many artichoke-bottoms as there are minion fillets, and heat them in butter. Garnish these artichoke-bottoms, dome-fashion, with a very white and somewhat stiff chicken purée. Sprinkle the minion fillets with a little mushroom cooking-liquor, and poach them in the oven for from five to six minutes.

Set the artichoke-bottoms in a circle on a round dish, and set a minion fillet upon each.

Serve a very delicate Suprême sauce, separately.

1626 — Nonnettes de Poulet Agnès Sorel

Truss twelve ortolans for entrées, and stiffen them in butter for a moment.

Raise the fillets of twelve spring chickens; trim them; flatten them slightly and pair them off, putting the edges of one on the other, that a larger surface may be obtained.

Set these paupiettes in a shallow sautépan, and, five minutes before serving, sprinkle them with four oz. of boiling butter; salt moderately, and cook in a fierce oven.

After having removed the string, set each nonnette on a square, hollowed crouton of bread-crumb, fried in butter, and coated inside with foie-gras purée. Coat moderately with a light chicken glaze, finished with butter, and squeeze a drop of lemon juice on each nonnette.

1627 — Ursulines de Nancy

Prepare some barquette crusts.

Mould some chicken forcemeat into large, round, regular quenelles, and poach them in some white consommé, in time for them to be ready when the Ursulines are being dished.

A few moments before serving, garnish the barquette crusts with foie-gras purée, thinned with a little good half-glaze, flavoured with port or sherry wine. In the middle of each garnished barquette, set a well-drained mousseline quenelle; deck each quenelle with a thin and wide slice of truffle; set a small heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, at either end of the barquettes, that is to say, on either side of the quenelle; and slightly coat the latter with chicken glaze, finished with butter.

Serve, separately, a sauceboat containing some of the same chicken glaze with butter.

1628 — Filets de Poulet à la Saint-Germain

Season the fillets, dip them in melted butter and roll them in bread-crumbs; grill them gently, each on a sheet of oiled paper, and sprinkle with clarified butter during the operation.

Dish the grilled fillets, and serve at the same time:—(1) a Béarnaise sauce; (2) a timbale containing a purée of foie gras with cream.

1629 — Filets de Poulet Mireille

Prepare a garnish as for No. 1365; i.e., sliced, raw potatoes and artichoke-bottoms, set in a small earthenware dish and cooked as “Pommes Anna.”

Sauté the fillets in butter at the last moment; put them on the garnish, and sprinkle them with nut-brown butter.

Spring Chickens (Poulets de Grains)

Spring chickens are usually either grilled or prepared “en casserole” in accordance with one or another of the many recipes applicable to them.

1630 — Poulet de Grains à la Belle-Meunière

Stuff the chicken with four sliced chickens’ livers and three oz. of raw, quartered mushrooms, slightly tossed in butter. Slip five or six fine slices of truffle under the skin of the breast; truss the chicken as for an entrée, and brown it in butter.

This done, put it into an oval cocotte, with two oz. of butter, four rectangles of blanched breast of pork, and three oz. of raw quartered mushrooms, quickly tossed in butter beforehand.

Cook in the oven, under cover, and add two tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, just before serving.

1631 — Poulet de Grains à la Bergère

Fry in butter four oz. of blanched breast of pork, cut into dice, and one-half lb. of small, whole mushrooms. Drain, and set to brown in the same butter, the chicken stuffed with a half-onion and three oz. of mushrooms, chopped and fried in butter, and mixed with three oz. of butter and a coffeespoonful of chopped parsley.

When the chicken is well coloured or gilded, put the bacon and the mushrooms round it; swill with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce by two-thirds; add four tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, and complete the cooking of the chicken in the oven.

Set it on a round dish; thicken the cooking-liquor with a piece of manied butter, the size of a hazel-nut, or a little arrow-root; pour the sauce and the garnish round the chicken, and surround it with a border of freshly-fried straw potatoes.

1632 — Poulet de Grains Bonne Femme

Fry in butter four oz. of breast of fresh or salted pork, cut into slices and blanched. Drain; colour the chicken in the same fat, and put it in an oval cocotte with the slices of bacon.

With the same fat, fry in a frying-pan two-thirds lb. of potatoes cut to the shape of corks and divided into roundels; put these round the chicken, and set to cook in the oven, under cover.

When about to serve, sprinkle the fowl with a few tablespoonfuls of veal gravy.

Serve the preparation in the cocotte.

1633 — Poulet de Grains en Casserole

Poële the chicken with butter in an earthenware saucepan, and baste it often the while. When about to serve, clear of all grease, and add a tablespoonful of veal gravy.

This chicken is served plain, without any garnish.

1634 — Poulet de Grains en Cocotte

Brown the chicken in butter, in a cocotte, and under cover.

When it is half-done, surround it with two oz. of frizzled pieces of fresh or salted pork cut in dice, twelve small onions partly cooked in butter, and twenty small potatoes, the size and shape of olives.

Complete the cooking of the whole together, and, when about to serve, sprinkle with a little veal gravy.

1635 — Poulet de Grains Clamart

Brown the chicken in butter; half-cook it, and put it in a cocotte with one-half pint of half-cooked peas à la Française (No. 2193), the cooking-liquor of which should be very short. Complete the cooking of the whole, together, and serve the preparation as it stands, without cohering the peas.

1636 — Poulet de Grains Grillé Diable

Truss the chicken as for an entrée; split it open lengthwise along the middle of the back; flatten it with a butcher’s beater, and remove as many bones as possible. Season it; sprinkle it with melted butter, and half-cook it in the oven.

This done, coat it thoroughly with mustard strengthened by means of cayenne; sprinkle copiously with bread-crumbs; press upon the latter with the flat of a knife, that they may adhere to the mustard; sprinkle a little melted butter over the bird, and complete the latter’s cooking gently on the grill.

Set on a round dish, bordered with thin slices of lemon, and serve a Devilled Sauce Escoffier separately.

1637 — Poulet de Grains, Grillé à l’Anglaise (Spatchcock)

Split the chicken open, laterally, proceeding from the extremity of the belly to the wing-joints. Open it without separating the two halves, flatten it so as to break the joints and the bones, and remove the fragments of the latter with great care.

Fix the wings by means of a skewer; sprinkle the chicken with melted butter, season it, and half-cook it in the oven.

This done, sprinkle it with bread-crumbs and melted butter, and complete its cooking on the grill. Set it on a round dish, bordered with gherkins, and serve it as it stands.

1638 — Poulet de Grains aux Fonds D’Artichauts

Brown the chicken in butter, and put it in a cocotte with five fair-sized artichoke-bottoms, sliced while raw, and tossed in butter.

Complete its cooking gently in the oven, and, when about to serve, add a tablespoonful of veal gravy and a few drops of lemon juice.

1639 — Poulet de Grains à l’Hoteliere

Bone the chicken’s breast; stuff it with one-half lb. of good sausage-meat, and truss it as for an entrée. Brown it with butter in an earthenware saucepan, and put it in the oven.

When it is two-thirds done, add to it four oz. of quartered mushrooms, sautéd in butter, complete its cooking, and, when about to serve, finish it with three tablespoonfuls of veal gravy.

1640 — Poulet de Grains à la Katoff

Split the chicken open along the back, and half-cook it in the oven as in No. 1636. This done, complete its cooking on the grill.

Meanwhile, mould on a round, buttered dish a sort of galette of Duchesse potatoes (No. 2212), one inch thick. Gild, and colour in the oven.

Dish the grilled chicken on this galette, and surround the latter with a thread of strong veal gravy.

1641 — Poulet de Grains à la Limousine

Stuff the chicken with one-half lb. of good sausage-meat, combined with two oz. of chopped mushrooms fried in butter. Put the chicken in a cocotte with one oz. of butter and six rectangles of blanched breast of bacon, and cook gently in the oven.

When about to serve, add two or three tablespoonfuls of veal gravy.

Send, separately, six fine chestnuts cooked in consommé.

1642 — Poulet de Grains Mascotte

Brown the chicken in butter, and cook it “en casserole” with four oz. of potatoes the size and shape of olives and tossed in butter.

When the chicken is almost cooked, put it in a cocotte with the potatoes all round, two tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, and two oz. of sliced truffles set upon it.

Cover the cocotte; put the chicken in the front of the oven for ten minutes, and serve it as it stands.

1643 — Poulet de Grains aux Morilles

Prepare this chicken like the one “en casserole,” and surround it with one-half lb. of morels, tossed in butter for a moment. Complete the cooking under cover, and, when about to serve, finish with one tablespoonful of veal gravy.

1644 — Poulet de Grains Souvaroff

Proceed exactly as explained under No. 1520, but reduce the garnish by half.

1645 — Poulet de Grains Tartare

Proceed as for No. 1636, but serve a Tartare sauce at the same time.

Chicks (Poussins)

The most perfect example of this class would be the Hamburg chick, were it not for the fact that it is too often kept in confinement and fed on fish, which gives a disagreeable flavour to the young bird.

When it is bred rationally, however, this chick is a great delicacy.

1646 — Poussins Cendrillon

Open the chicks along the back, and brown them in butter. This done, season them with salt and cayenne, and put them between two layers of pork forcemeat. Wrap them in very soft pig’s caul. Dip them in melted butter; roll them in bread-crumbs, and grill them gently for twenty or twenty-five minutes.

Dish, and serve a Périgueux sauce separately.

1647 — Poussins à la Piémontaise

Stuff each chick with one and one-half oz. of white Piedmont truffles, pounded with an equal weight of very fresh pork fat. Now truss them as for an entrée; string them and fry them in butter over a fierce fire. At the end of ten minutes put them in a cocotte; partly surround and cover them with rizotto à la Piémontaise, and complete the cooking in the oven with lid off.

A few minutes before serving, sprinkle the rizotto with grated Parmesan; glaze; and, at the last minute, sprinkle with nut-brown butter.

1648 — Poussins à la Polonaise

Stuff each chick with one and one-half oz. of gratin forcemeat, two-thirds oz. of soaked and pressed bread-crumbs, one-third oz. of butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley. Truss as for entrées; string; quickly fry the chicks in butter in a very hot oven; put them in a cocotte, and complete their cooking in the oven.

At the last moment sprinkle them with a few drops of lemon juice and nut-brown butter, combined with one oz. of bread-crumbs per four oz. of butter.

1649 — Poussins à la Tartare

Proceed exactly as for “Poulet à la Tartare.”

1650 — Tourte de Poussins à la Paysanne

Prepare a round layer of short paste, ten inches in diameter. Upon this paste spread two-thirds lb. of sausage-meat, combined with five oz. of dry Duxelles, taking care to leave a margin two inches wide of bare paste all round.

Upon this coating of forcemeat set ten half-chicks, stiffened in butter; sprinkle two-thirds lb. of chopped mushrooms, sautéd in butter, over them; spread a second coating of sausage-meat and Duxelles over the whole; cover with a very thin slice of bacon, and close the whole with a layer of paste a little larger than the underlying one, the edges of which should have been moistened. Seal the two edges, and pleat regularly; gild; streak; make a slit in the top, and bake in a moderate oven for about forty minutes.

When taking the tourte out of the oven, pour into it, through the slit in its cover, a few tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce.

1651 — Poussins à la Viennoise

Cut the chicks each into four pieces; season them; dredge them; dip them in beaten egg, and roll them in bread-crumbs.

A few minutes before serving, put them in hot fat; drain them, and dish them in pyramid form on a folded napkin. Surround with fried parsley and sections of lemon, and serve very hot.

Various Preparations of Fowl

1652 — Abatis aux Navets

Fry one-half lb. of blanched breast of pork, cut into dice, in butter. Drain, and fry in the same sautépan three lbs. of giblets, cut into pieces (all except the livers, which are only added one-quarter hour before dishing). Sprinkle with two and one-half oz. of flour; mix the latter with the pieces, and cook it in the oven for seven or eight minutes; moisten with three pints of white stock. Season with a pinch of pepper; add a faggot and a crushed, garlic clove; set to boil, stirring the while; cover, and place in a somewhat hot oven, that the preparation may boil gently.

Complete the cooking gently, and serve in a timbale.

N.B.—With the same procedure, the giblets may be prepared with peas; with mixed, new vegetables; à la chipolata, &c.

1653 — Giblet Pie

Fry the giblets, cut into pieces, in butter; sprinkle them moderately with flour; cook the latter, and moisten with just sufficient consommé to make a clear sauce which will just cover the pieces. Three-parts cook, and leave to cool.

This done, pour the whole into a pie-dish; cover with a layer of puff-paste, which should be sealed down to a strip of paste, stuck to the edge of the dish; gild; streak, and bake in a moderately warm oven for from twenty-five to thirty minutes.

1654 — Ballotines et Jambonneaux

These preparations are useful for disposing of any odd legs of fowls, the other parts of which have been already used. The legs are boned and stuffed, and the skin, which should be purposely left long if this preparation be contemplated, is then sewn up. The stuffing used varies according to the kind of dish in preparation, but good sausage-meat is most commonly used.

Ballotines or Jambonneaux are braised, and they may be accompanied by any garnish suited to fowl.

If they be prepared for serving cold, coat them with jelly, or cover them with brown or white chaud-froid sauce, and garnish them according to fancy.

Boudins et Quenelles de Volaille

1655 — Boudins de Volaille à la Richelieu

Take the required amount of chicken forcemeat, prepared with panada and cream, and divide it into three-oz. portions. Roll these portions into sausage-form, and open them so as to stuff them with some white chicken-meat, truffle and mushroom salpicon, cohered with reduced Allemande sauce. These quenelles may also be moulded in little, rectangular cases, used in biscuit-making, as follows:—Line the bottom and sides of the moulds, which should be well buttered, with a thickness of one-third inch of forcemeat; garnish the centre with salpicon; cover with forcemeat up to the edges, and smooth with the blade of a small knife dipped in tepid water.

Dish them in a circle on a folded napkin, and serve a Périgueux sauce separately.

1656 — Boudins de Volaille Soubise

Prepare the boudins with some forcemeat as above, but replace the salpicon inside by a very reduced and cold truffled Soubise purée.

Poach, dip in beaten egg, and roll in bread-crumbs, and colour as before in clarified butter.

Serve a clear Soubise separately.

1657 — Quenelles de Volaille Morland

Mould some portions of somewhat firm chicken mousseline forcemeat into the shape of oval quenelles, three oz. in weight. Dip them in beaten egg; roll them in finely minced truffle, and press lightly on the latter with the blade of a knife, in order that it may combine with the egg.

Poach gently in clarified butter, under cover, that the forcemeat may be well cooked.

Dish in a circle, and in the middle pour a mushroom purée.

1658 — Quenelles de Volaille D’Uzès

Line the bottom and sides of some oval buttered quenelle moulds with chicken forcemeat prepared with panada and cream. Garnish the middle with a mince of the white of chicken meat cohered with reduced Allemande sauce, and cover with forcemeat.

Poach the quenelles in good time; drain them on a piece of linen; set them in a circle on a round dish, and coat with Aurore sauce. Garnish the centre of the circle with a fine Julienne of truffles.

1659 — Capilotade de Volaille

Prepare an Italienne sauce, combined with cooked, sliced mushrooms. Add to this sauce some thin slices of cold fowl remains, and heat without allowing to boil at all.

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley over the preparation.

1660 — Chicken Pie

Cut a fowl into pieces as for a fricassée; season the pieces, and sprinkle them with three finely-chopped onions, one and one-half oz. of chopped mushrooms cooked in butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley.

Line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with thin slices of veal; set the pieces of fowl inside, putting the legs undermost; add five oz. of thin slices of bacon; the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs cut into two; and moisten sufficiently to three-parts cover with chicken consommé. Cover with a layer of puff-paste, which should be sealed down to a strip of paste stuck to the edges of the pie-dish; gild; streak; make a slit in the middle of the paste, and bake in a moderate oven for one and one-half hours.

When taking the pie out of the oven, pour a few tablespoonfuls of strong gravy into it.

1661 — Crêtes et Rognons de Coq

In order to prepare cocks’ combs and kidneys, they should be first set to soak in cold water for a few hours.

If they are fresh, they should be put in a saucepan of cold water; the latter should be made lukewarm, and they should then be drained and rubbed in a towel that their skins may be removed. This done, they are trimmed, and kept in fresh water, which ought to be frequently changed until they are quite white.

They may then be cooked in a very light Blanc (No. 167).

The kidneys are merely soaked in cold water for a few hours, and put to cook with the combs a few minutes before the latter are ready.

Cocks’ combs and kidneys are mostly used as garnish; nevertheless, they also serve in the preparation of special dishes, for which I shall now give a few recipes.

1662 — Crêtes et Rognons de Coq à la Grecque

About twenty-five minutes before serving, prepare a pint of pilaff rice, combined with one half-capsicum cut into dice, and a very little saffron.

Also prepare ten roundels of egg-plant, seasoned, dredged, and fried in oil just before dishing. The moment the rice is cooked, add thereto twenty-four very fresh cocks’ kidneys, frizzled in butter, and twelve fine blanched cocks’ combs, poëled after the manner of lambs’ sweetbreads.

Set the whole in a silver saucepan, arrange the egg-plant roundels in a circle on the rice, and serve instantly.

1663 — Desirs de Mascotte

Put three oz. of butter in a vegetable-pan, and fry it nut-brown.

Meanwhile, prepare twelve croûtons of bread-crumbs, one-third inch thick, stamped out with a round cutter two-thirds inch in diameter. Fry these croûtons in butter at the last minute.

Put four fine, very black truffles, cut into somewhat thick slices, into the required quantity of reduced half-glaze sauce; add the kidneys, drained of their butter, as well as the fried crusts, one and one-half oz. of very best butter, and a few drops of lemon juice, and roll the saucepan gently, that the butter may thoroughly combine with the sauce.

Dish immediately in a very hot, silver timbale, and serve instantly.

1664 — Rognons de Coq Farcis Pour Entrées Froides, Garnitures, etc.

Choose some fine, cooked kidneys, and cut them into two lengthwise. Trim them slightly underneath, that they may lie steady.

Stuff them by means of a piping-bag with a highly seasoned purée of foie gras, or of ham, of the white of a chicken and truffles, combined with an equal weight of fresh butter.

Coat them with a pink or white chaud-froid sauce, according to the requirements; set them in a low timbale, and cover them with light jelly.

They may also be put into petits-fours moulds, surrounded with jelly, and used as a garnish for cold fowls.

1664a — Chicken Croquettes and Cutlets

The croquettes and cutlets with which we are now concerned are made up of exactly the same constituents, and only differ in the matter of shape, the croquettes, as a rule, being shaped either like corks or rectangles; sometimes, too, like quoits; whereas the cutlets, as their name implies, are made in cutlet-shaped moulds.

The preparation from which they are made is as follows:—One lb. of the meat of a poached or roast fowl, thoroughly cleared of all skin, cartilage, and bones, and cut into small regular dice1; six oz. of cooked mushrooms; an equal amount of salted ox-tongue or York ham, and four oz. of truffles. Cut these various products like the chicken, and mix them therewith; then add one-half pint of very reduced and finished Allemande sauce to the whole; set the preparation to dry for a few minutes over an open fire; this done, remove it from the latter, and thicken it with the yolks of four raw eggs, which should be quickly mixed with it. Now pour the preparation into a very clean, buttered tray, and butter its surface, lest a crust form thereon during the cooling.

When the preparation is quite cold, transfer it, by means of a spoon, in pieces weighing about two oz., to a flour-dusted mixing board. Make the croquettes and cutlets about the desired shape; dip them into an anglaise, and roll them in fine bread-crumbs. Definitely shape them; plunge them into very hot fat; keep them therein till they have acquired a fine golden colour; drain them, and dish them in a crown on a napkin, with a heap of fried parsley in the middle.

Croquettes and cutlets may be garnished as fancy suggests, but the accompaniment should always be served separately. Tomato and Périgueux sauces are the most commonly used, and the best garnishes for the purpose are all the purées, peas, French beans, and jardinières.

Chickens’ Livers (Foies de Volaille)

1665 — Brochettes de Foies de Volaille

Collop the livers; quickly stiffen them in butter, and then treat them exactly as explained under “Brochettes de Rognons” (No. 1343).

1666 — Foies de Volaille et Rognons Sautés au Vin Rouge

Proceed according to the recipe given under “Rognons Sautés au Champagne” (No. 1333), using sliced chickens’ livers and cocks’ kidneys in equal quantities, and substituting excellent red wine for the Champagne.

N.B.—Chickens’ livers are also prepared sautés chasseur; sautés fines herbes, au gratin; en coquilles; en pilaw, &c. Refer to sheep’s kidneys for these preparations.

1667 — Fricassée de Poulet à l’Ancienne

For a fricassée cut up the chicken as for a sauté, but divide the legs into two. The procedure is exactly that of “Fricassée de Veau” (No. 1276)—that is to say, the chicken is cooked in the sauce.

About ten minutes before serving, add ten small onions, cooked in white consommé, and ten small grooved mushroom-heads. Finish at the last moment with a pinch of chopped parsley and chives. Thicken the sauce at the last moment with the yolks of two eggs, four tablespoonfuls of cream, and one oz. of best butter.

Dish in a timbale, and surround the fricassée with little flowerets of puff-paste, baked without colouration.

1668 — Fricassée de Poulet aux Écrevisses

Prepare the fricassée as above, and add thereto as garnish ten small, cooked mushrooms, and the shelled tails of twelve crayfish, cooked as for bisque. When about to serve, finish the fricassée with two and one-half oz. of crayfish butter, made from the crayfishes’ carcasses and their cooking-liquor rubbed through linen.

Dish in a timbale.

1669 — Fritôt Ou Marinade de Volaille

Cut some boiled or roast fowl into slices, and marinade these in a few drops of oil, lemon juice, and some chopped herbs for one-quarter hour. Boiled fowl is preferable, in that the greater porousness of its meat facilitates the percolation of the marinade through it.

A few minutes before serving, dip the slices into very light batter, and put them into very hot fat. Drain, the moment the batter is well gilded; dish on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve a tomato sauce separately.

N.B.—Nowadays Fritôt and Marinade of fowl are identically the same dish, but formerly they differed in this, namely, that the Fritôt was prepared from cooked fowl, and the Marinade from pieces of uncooked fowl which were marinaded beforehand.

1670 — Mousses et Mousselines de Volaille

Both these preparations have for basic ingredient the mousseline forcemeat of No. 195. They differ in that the “Mousses” are prepared singly for one service, i.e., for several people at once, and that the “Mousselines,” which are virtually special quenelles, are prepared in the proportion of one or two for each person.

In different parts of this work, especially under No. 797, the subject has already been exhaustively treated; there is no need now, therefore, to go over the ground again.

1671 — Mousselines de Volaille Alexandra

Mould and poach the Mousselines. Drain them, and set them in a circle on a round dish; place on each a fine slice of cooked fowl, and upon the latter a slice of truffle. Coat with Mornay sauce, glaze quickly, and, in the middle of the mousselines, set a heap of asparagus-heads or small peas, cohered with butter.

1672 — Mousselines de Volaille à l’Indienne

Prepare the mousselines as above; set them in a circle on a round dish; coat with Indienne sauce, and serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne separately.

1673 — Mousselines de Volaille au Paprika

When the mousselines are poached and dished, set upon each a fine collop of suprême, and coat with suprême sauce with paprika. Surround them with small timbales of pilaff rice combined with concassed tomatoes cooked in butter.

1674 — Mousselines de Volaille à la Patti

Proceed as for “Mousselines Alexandra,” but coat them with suprême sauce, finished with crayfish butter. In their midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and upon these lay some fine slices of glazed truffles.

1675 — Mousselines de Volaille à la Sicilienne

Prepare the mousselines as above, and set them, each on an oval tartlet, garnished with macaroni à la Napolitaine. Coat them with suprême sauce; besprinkle with grated Parmesan, and glaze quickly.

1676 — Sylphides de Volaille

Prepare and poach the mousselines in the usual way. Garnish the bottom of some barquettes with Mornay sauce, and put a mousseline into each barquette.

Set a collop of fowl on each mousseline, and cover them with a somewhat stiff preparation of soufflé au Parmesan (No. 2295a), applied ornamentally by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe. Put the sylphides in the oven, in order to cook the soufflé, and serve instantly.

1677 — Mousselines de Volaille à la Florentine

Proceed as for the sylphides; taking note only of this difference, viz., that the bottom of the barquettes must be garnished with shredded spinach stewed in butter. For the other details of the operation the procedure is the same.

1678 — Pilaw de Volaille

Pilaff, which is the national dish of Orientals, gives rise to an endless number of recipes. The various curries of veal, lamb, and fowl are “pilaffs,” and all except the one “à la Parisienne,” which I give below, follow the same method of preparation—namely, that of curry; but for a change in the condiments and the treatment of the rice, which is not the same as that of “Riz à l’Indienne.”

1679 — Pilaw de Volaille à la Grecque

Cut the fowl into small pieces, and fry it in mutton fat with three oz. of chopped onions. Sprinkle with one oz. of flour; moisten with one pint of white consommé; add two-thirds of a capsicum, cut into dice, and one and one-half oz. of currants and sultanas, and cook gently.

Dish in a timbale, and serve some pilaw rice separately.

1680 — Pilaw de Volaille à l’Orientale

Prepare the fowl as above, only flavour it with a little powdered ginger, and add three green braised and quartered capsicums to the sauce.

Serve a timbale of pilaff rice at the same time.

1681 — Pilaw de Volaille à la Parisienne

Cut up the fowl as for a fricassée; season it; fry it in butter, and add thereto three and one-half oz. of rice, browned in butter, with one chopped onion, a leaf of bay, and two peeled and concassed tomatoes. Moisten with enough white broth to more than cover, and cook in a very hot oven for twenty-five minutes. At the end of this time the fowl and rice are cooked, and the rice should be quite dry.

Sprinkle then with one-sixth pint of veal stock; mix the latter with the pilaff by means of a fork, and dish with care in a timbale.

Serve a sauceboat of tomato sauce separately.

1682 — Pilaw de Volaille à la Turque

Prepare the fowl as for “Pilaw à la Parisienne,” and flavour with a little cayenne and another of saffron. Dish in a timbale.

N.B.—Pilaff may also be prepared with cooked fowl, cut into slices which are heated in butter. In this case, garnish the bottoms and sides of a timbale with tomatéd pilaff rice; put the slices of fowl in the middle; cover with rice, and turn out the timbale on the dish.

Surround the timbale with a thread of tomato sauce.

1683 — Soufflés de Volaille

For dinners on a large scale, it is in every way preferable to use raw chicken-meat. For small services, cooked chicken-meat suits perfectly.

N.B.—The time allowed for cooking chicken soufflés with cooked chicken-meat is comparatively long, and it is better to cook them a little too much than not enough.

For a soufflé made in a quart timbale, and cooked in a moderate oven as directed, allow from about twenty-five to thirty minutes.

1684 — Soufflé de Volaille With Raw Meat

Prepare two lbs. of mousseline forcemeat of chicken, according to recipe No. 195; add to this the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

Dish in buttered timbales, and cook in a moderate oven.

1685 — Soufflé de Volaille With Cooked Meat

Finely pound one lb. of the white of cooked chicken-meat; add thereto six tablespoonfuls of cold, reduced, Béchamel sauce. Rub through tammy.

Heat this preparation in a saucepan, without allowing it to boil, and add to it one and one-half oz. of butter, the yolks of five eggs, and the whites of six, beaten to a stiff froth.

Dish in a buttered timbale, and cook in a moderate oven.

Suprême sauce and the other derivatives of Allemande sauce form the best accompaniments to chicken soufflés.

1686 — Soufflé de Volaille à la Périgord

This may be made from either one of the two above-mentioned preparations, but there must be added to it three and one-half oz. of chopped truffles. The preparation is then spread in layers separated by slices of truffle, which should weigh about three and one-half oz. in all, in order to be in proportion to the quantities already given.

Cold Preparations of Fowl

1687 — Poularde à la Carmélite

Poach the pullet; raise the suprêmes and remove their skin; slice them; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them soberly with pieces of truffle. Trim the carcass; coat it outside with white chaud-froid sauce, and fill it with a fine crayfish mousse, reconstructing it exactly in so doing.

Cause a mousse to set in a refrigerator; place the collops of suprême neatly upon it, in two rows, and between each row lay a dozen fine crayfish tails shelled and trimmed.

Coat the whole with half-melted aspic jelly; set in a deep dish; incrust the latter in a block of ice, and pour enough very good, melting aspic jelly (No. 159) over the pullet to half-immerse it.

1688 — Poularde au Champagne

Stuff a pullet two days beforehand with a whole foie gras studded with truffles and stiffened in butter for twenty minutes. Poële it in champagne; put it in a cocotte; cover it with its poëling-liquor, containing a sufficient addition of succulent jelly, and leave it to cool.

On the morrow remove, by means of a spoon, the grease that has settled on the jelly, and scald the latter twice or thrice with boiling water, in order to remove the last traces of grease.

Serve this pullet very cold, in the same cocotte in which it has cooled.

1689 — Poularde en Chaud-Froid

Poach the pullet; let it cool in its cooking-liquor; cut it up, and clear the pieces of all skin. Dip the pieces in chaud-froid sauce, already prepared from the pullet’s cooking-liquor if possible, and arrange them on a tray. Decorate each piece with a fine slice of truffle; glaze with cold, melted jelly; leave to set, and trim the edges of the pieces, just before dishing them.

Old method of dishing: Formerly, chaud-froids were dished on a cushion of bread or rice, placed in the middle of a border of jelly; and, between each piece, cocks’ combs and mushrooms, covered with chaud-froid sauce or jelly, were set.

They were also dished on stearine tazzas, made in special moulds; but these methods, however much they may have been honoured by old cookery, are generally scouted at the present day.

The method of dishing detailed hereafter is steadily ousting them; it allows of serving much more delicate and more agreeable chaud-froids in the simplest possible way, and was inaugurated at my suggestion at the Savoy Hotel.

Modern method of dishing: Set the decorated pieces, coated with chaud-froid sauce, side by side on a layer of excellent aspic jelly, lying on the bottom of a deep square dish. Cover them with the same aspic, which should be half melted, and leave to set. When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of carved ice, or surround it with the latter fragmented.

1690 — Poularde en Chaud-Froid à l’Écossaise

Having poached and cooled the pullets, raise the suprêmes, and cut each into three or four collops. Garnish these collops, dome-fashion, with a salpicon consisting of the meat cut from the carcass, combined with an equal quantity of salted tongue and truffle, and cohered with reduced chicken jelly.

Coat these collops with white chaud-froid sauce; sprinkle them immediately with very red tongue, truffle, gherkins, and hard-boiled white of egg; all chopped, mixed, and glazed with jelly.

Now set the collops in a deep, square silver dish, alternating them with oval slices of salted tongue.

Garnish their midst with a salad of French beans, cut lozenge-form and cohered with aspic.

1691 — Chaud-Froid Felix Faure

Raise the suprêmes of a fine pullet; cut them in two in the thick part, without separating them, and slightly flatten them. Lay them on a piece of linen; season them; and, on one of their halves, spread a layer of foie-gras purée thickened with a little chicken forcemeat. Upon this layer set some rectangles of raw foie gras, one-third in. thick; cover with purée, set some slices of truffle upon the latter; coat again with purée; moisten with white of egg, and over the whole press the other half of the suprême. Wrap each suprême, prepared in this way, in a piece of muslin; poach them in a moderate oven, after having moistened them to within half their height with chicken stock; and leave them to cool in their cooking-liquor under slight pressure.

This done, take off the muslin, and cut each suprême into ten or twelve medallions. Envelop each medallion in a mousse of chicken made with the meat of the poached eggs, and leave to set. Then coat each medallion with white chaud-froid sauce, and deck each with a fine slice of truffle.

Clothe a dome-mould with a fine chicken jelly, and decorate it with slices of truffle; put the medallions inside, proceeding as for an aspic, and leave to set.

When about to serve, turn out on a serviette.

1692 — Chaud-Froid de Poularde à la Gounod

Raise the suprêmes of a poached pullet, and cool them under pressure.

Prepare a slab of mousse (made from the legs and the trimmings), twice as thick as the rectangles. Smoothen this mousse neatly, and put it in the refrigerator that it may get firm. This done, cut it into pieces exactly equal in size to the suprêmes; to do this, all that is necessary is to stick the latter on the mousse by means of jelly.

Now coat each suprême garnished with mousse with white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate with a bar of notes, imitated with truffles.

Set in a square, deep silver dish; cover with limpid and melting chicken jelly; leave to set, and serve the dish incrusted in a block of ice.

1693 — Chaud-Froid de Poularde à la Rossini

Prepare the pieces as for ordinary chaud-froid, and coat them with chaud-froid sauce combined with a quarter of its bulk of very smooth foie-gras purée. Decorate each piece with a lyre composed of truffle stamped out with a “lyre” fancy-cutter, set them on a deep, square dish, and cover with chicken jelly as above.

1694 — Poularde à la Dampierre

Completely bone the pullet’s breast, and stuff it with a preparation of chicken forcemeat (No. 200). Sew up the piece, truss it as for an entrée, and poach it in a chicken stock.

When it is cold, trim it, and coat it with a white chaud-froid sauce, combined with a little almond milk. Glaze with aspic jelly, and set it, without decorating it, on a low cushion lying on a long dish.

Surround it with six small, ham mousses and six small, chicken mousses, moulded in deep dariole-moulds, and arranged alternately.

Border the dish with croûtons of jelly, cut very neatly.

1695 — Poulets à l’Écarlate

Bone the breasts of three fair-sized chickens; stuff and poach them as explained above. When they are quite cold, cover them with white chaud-froid sauce; decorate with pieces of truffle; glaze with aspic jelly, and leave to set.

This done, set them upright on a dish, letting them lean one against the other. Between each chicken set a salted calf’s tongue, upright, with the tip of the tongue pointing upwards; and, on either side of the tongues, a large glazed truffle.

1696 — Poularde à la Lambertye

Poach the pullet and let it cool thoroughly.

Raise the suprêmes, suppress the bones of the breast and garnish the cavity with a cold chicken mousse, combined with a quarter of its volume of foie-gras purée, shaping the latter in such wise as to reconstruct the bird.

Cut the suprêmes into thin, long slices; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce, and place them on the mousse, pressing them lightly one upon the other. Deck with pieces of truffle; glaze with chicken jelly; set in a square, entrée dish, and surround with melted jelly.

When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of ice.

1697 — Poularde à la Neva

Stuff the pullet with chicken forcemeat (No. 200), combined with foie gras and truffles, cut into dice; poach it in chicken stock and let it cool. This done, coat the piece with white chaud-froid sauce, decorate with jelly, and leave to set.

Set the pullet on a cushion of rice, lying on a long dish. Behind the bird, arrange a fine, vegetable salad in a shell of carved rice, or in a large, silver shell.

Border the dish with neatly-cut croûtons of pale jelly.

1698 — Poularde Rose de Mai

Poach the pullet and, when it is quite cold, raise its suprêmes and remove the bones of the breast. Coat the carcass with a white chaud-froid sauce; decorate as fancy may dictate; garnish with a mousse of tomatoes (No. 814), and arrange the latter in such wise as to reconstruct the bird.

Slice the suprêmes; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce; decorate with truffles, and glaze with chicken jelly. Garnish with the same mousse as that already used for the pullet, as many small, barquette-moulds as there are chaud-froid-coated slices, and leave to set.

Put the pullets on a low cushion of rice, placed on a long dish; surround it with the barquettes of mousse, turned out at the last moment; set a chaud-froid-coated slice on each barquette, and distribute croûtons of jelly over the dish.

1699 — Poularde Rose Marie

Having poached and cooled the pullet, raise its suprêmes; cut these into collops, and coat them with white chaud-froid sauce. Trim the carcass, leaving the wings attached; garnish it with very smooth and pink, ham mousse, giving the latter the shape of the pullet, and put to set in the refrigerator.

Mould in small, oval moulds, as many barquettes of the same ham mousse as there are collops.

When the mousse in the fowl has properly set, coat it with chaud-froid sauce, prepared with paprika of a fine, tender, pink shade; decorate according to fancy, and glaze with chicken jelly.

Set the pullet on a low cushion of rice, placed on a dish; place the barquettes of ham mousse around it; set a collop on each mousse and a fine slice of truffle on each collop, and border the dish with croûtons of aspic.

1700 — Poularde à la Saint-Cyr

Poële the pullet in white wine, and leave it to cool in its cooking-liquor. This done, raise the fillets; cut them into regular slices; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce and decorate.

Meanwhile, sauté fifteen larks in a mirepoix; remove the fillets of six of them; glaze them with brown, chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them with bits of hard-boiled white of egg.

With the remainder of the larks and five oz. of foie gras, prepare a mousse, and use the latter for reconstructing the pullet as explained in the preceding recipes. When the mousse has set properly, coat it with brown, chaud-froid sauce. Arrange the chicken fillets, coated with white, chaud-froid sauce, on either side of the mousse; in the middle put the larks’ fillets, coated with brown, chaud-froid sauce, and let them slightly overlap one another.

Set the pullet in a deep, square dish; surround it with melted, chicken jelly; let the latter set, and serve the dish incrusted in a block of ice.

1701 — Poularde en Terrine à la Gelée

Bone the pullet all but the legs, and stuff it with a forcemeat consisting of: three and one-half oz. of veal; three and one-half oz. of fresh pork fat; three and one-half oz. of gratin forcemeat, prepared from fowls’ livers; two tablespoonfuls of brandy; two tablespoonfuls of truffle essence, and the yolk of an egg.

In the midst of the stuffing, set half of a raw foie gras and one raw, quartered truffle on each side. Reconstruct the pullet; truss it as for an entrée; cover it with slices of bacon, and poële in Madeira for one and one-half hours.

Leave to half-cool in the cooking-liquor; withdraw the pullet; remove the slices of bacon, and put it in a terrine just large enough to hold it.

Do not serve until twenty-four hours have elapsed, and clear of grease as directed under “Poularde au Champagne” (No. 1688).

Serve the terrine in a block of ice, or on a dish with broken ice all round.

1702 — Terrine de Poularde en Conserve

Prepare the pullet as explained above, and put it in a box just large enough to hold it. Seal up the box; mark the top with a bit of tin; put it in a stewpan with enough water to cover it, and boil for two hours.

This done, withdraw the box and cool it, placing it upside down, that the grease may be at the bottom and the breast coated with jelly.

1703 — Ailerons de Poulet à la Carmélite

Poach a chicken à la Reine; let it cool; raise its suprêmes and leave the humerus bones attached, after having duly cleared them of all meat; skin the suprêmes, and coat them with a little jelly.

Garnish a timbale, just large enough to hold the two wings, half-way up with crayfish mousse. Upon this mousse, set the two suprêmes, opposite one another, and between them set a row of shelled and trimmed crayfishes’ tails, cooked as for bisque. Cover the whole with a succulent half-set chicken jelly, and place in the refrigerator for two hours.

1704 — Ailerons de Poulet Lady Wilmer

Poach three fleshy, spring chickens, taking care to have the suprêmes just cooked. Leave to cool, and raise the wings as in the preceding recipe, trim them and coat them with jelly.

With the meat of three legs, prepare a chicken mousse, and mould it in a dome-mould. When the mousse is set, turn it out on a dish, and place the wings all round, fixing them on the mousse, with their points upwards, by means of a little half-set jelly.

Cover the mousse on top, and the gaps between the points of the suprêmes with chopped truffle and chopped tongue, laid alternately. In the middle of the mousse, set a fine, glazed truffle, pierced by a small hatelet.

1705 — Aspic de Poulet à l’Italienne

Clothe a border mould with aspic jelly, in accordance with the procedure described under “Aspic de Homard” (No. 954), and decorate it with large slices of truffles. Fill the mould with a coarse julienne of chicken fillets, salted tongue and truffles, spread in successive layers and besprinkled with cold, melted aspic.

When about to serve, turn out the aspic on a very cold dish; set a salad “à l’Italienne” in its midst, and serve a Rémoulade sauce separately.

1706 — Aspic de Poulet à la Gauloise

Clothe an ornamented mould with jelly, and decorate its bottom and sides with truffles. Fill it with successive and alternate layers of: aspic jelly, collops of chicken fillets, cocks’ combs coated with brown, chaud-froid sauce, fine cocks’ kidneys, coated with white chaud-froid sauce, and slices of salted tongue cut into oval shapes.

When about to serve, turn out, and surround with fine croûtons of aspic.

1707 — Médaillons de Volaille Rachel

Prepare some chicken suprêmes as explained under “Chaud-froid Félix Faure” (No. 1691), and cut them into collops. Trim these collops with a round, even cutter, and coat them with aspic.

Prepare a mousse from the meat of the legs. Spread this mousse on a tray in a layer one-third in. thick and leave it to set. When it is quite firm, stamp it out with a round, even cutter, dipped in hot water, and a little larger than the one used in trimming the collops.

Set a medallion on each roundel of mousse, fixing it there by means of a little half-set jelly, and arrange the medallion prepared in this way on a square dish.

In their midst set a fine faggot of asparagus-heads; fill the gaps between the medallions with a garnish consisting of a salad of asparagus-heads with cream.

Serve on a block of ice or surround the dish with ice.

1708 — Galantine de Volaille

For galantines, fowls may be used which are a little too tough to be roasted, but old fowls should be discarded. The latter invariably yield a dry forcemeat, whatever measures one may take in the preparation.

The fowl should be cleaned but not emptied, and it should be carefully boned; the process beginning from an incision down the skin of the back, from the head to the tail.

This done, carefully remove the meat with the point of a small, sharp knife, until the carcass is quite bare. Cut off the wings and the legs, flush with the articulations of the trunk; remove all the meat that the skin may be quite clean, and spread the skin on a clean piece of linen. Trim the meat of the breast, cut it into pieces one-third inch square, and put the resulting trimmings aside.

Season these pieces and marinade them in a few drops of brandy; prepare other pieces of the same size and length from four oz. of truffles; six oz. of salted, fat pork; four oz. of cooked ham, and four oz. of salted and cooked ox-tongue. Then clear the meat of the legs of all tendons; add to it the trimmings cut from the breast, as much very white veal and twice as much very fat, fresh pork; season these meats with salt, pepper and nutmeg; chop them up very finely; pound them, and rub them through a sieve. Add the brandy in which the fillets were marinaded.

Spread a layer, three in. wide, of this forcemeat along the whole of the middle of the chicken’s skin; upon this layer of forcemeat set the strips of bacon, fowl, truffle, ham, and tongue, arranging them alternately and regularly; upon them spread another layer of forcemeat, equal to the first; then another layer of the various pieces, and finally cover and envelop the whole in what remains of the forcemeat.

Draw the skin of the fowl over the whole and completely wrap the former round the latter. Carefully sew up the edges of the skin, and roll the galantine in a napkin, either end of which should be tightly strung.

With six lbs. of shin of veal, one-half lb. of fresh blanched pork rind, and the fowl’s carcass, prepare a white veal stock (No. 10). When this stock has cooked for about five hours, add the galantine to it, and gently cook the latter for about one and one-quarter hours.

At the end of this time take the galantine off the fire; drain it on a dish, and let it cool for ten minutes; remove the napkin in which it has cooked, and roll it in another one which should be similarly tied at both ends. This done, put the galantine to cool under a weight not exceeding five or six lbs.

The cooking-liquor, once it has been cleared of grease and clarified as for an aspic (No. 158), constitutes a jelly which accompanies the galantine. When the latter is quite cold, remove the napkin covering it, trim it neatly at either end; coat it with half-melted jelly, and dish it on a low cushion of carved rice. Finally, decorate it as fancy may dictate with pieces of jelly.

1709 — Pain de Volaille Froid

Poële a very tender chicken; do not colour it and have it only just done. Withdraw it and leave it to cool. Add two tablespoonfuls of strong veal stock and one tablespoonful of burned brandy to the poëling-liquor.

Simmer for ten minutes. Strain this stock through a sieve, and slightly press the vegetables in so doing, that all their juices may be expressed.

Clear of grease, and reduce until the liquor does not measure more than two tablespoonfuls. Put it on the side of the fire, add the yolks of three eggs, stirring briskly the while, and add, little by little, six oz. of very good, fresh butter, just as for a Hollandaise sauce. Finally, add one and one-half leaves of gelatine, dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of boiling water, and rub the whole through tammy.

Meanwhile, raise the chicken’s fillets and cut them into wide and thin collops, after having cleared them of skin. Cover each collop with a slice of truffle dipped in good, half-melted jelly, and with them line the bottom and sides of a timbale-mould, already clothed with jelly and incrusted in ice.

Then completely bone the chicken; finely pound the remainder of its meat as well as the skin; rub the whole through a fine sieve, and add the resulting purée to the prepared sauce. Mix the whole well, and fill the mould with it. Allow to set well, and turn out on a cushion of rice surrounded by fine croûtons of jelly.

N.B.—By substituting young ducks, young pigeons, or some kind of game such as pheasant, woodcock, &c., for the chicken, this recipe may be applied to any piece of poultry or game.

1710 — Suprême de Volaille Jeannette

Poach a fowl; let it cool; raise its suprêmes, and cut each into four collops, trimmed to the shape of ovals. Coat these collops with white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them with tarragon leaves, blanched, cooled, well-drained and very green.

Let a layer of aspic jelly one-half in. thick set on the bottom of a timbale or a square dish; upon this layer set some slices of foie-gras Parfait, cut to the shape of the collops, and place one of the latter on each slice of the Parfait. This done, cover with fine half-melted chicken jelly.

When about to serve, incrust the dish or the timbale in a block of carved ice.

1711 — Mousse de Volaille Froide

The carefully boned and skinned meat of a poached fowl may be used in the preparation of this mousse, but a freshly-roasted fowl, scarcely cooled, is preferable; the latter’s flavour being more delicate and more distinct.

The quantities and the mode of procedure for cold fowl mousse are those given under “mousse de tomates” (No. 814).

The various mousse recipes which I gave for trout (Nos. 813 and 815) may be applied to cold fillets of fowl. In this case, the latter may be coated with some kind of chaud-froid sauce, or simply glazed with jelly, and soberly decorated.

These mousses constitute excellent dishes for suppers, and from a very long list of them I may quote:—

Mousse de jambon au blanc de poulet.

Mousse de foie gras au blanc de poulet.

Mousse de langue au blanc de poulet.

Mousse de tomates au blanc de poulet.

Mousse d’écrevisses au blanc de poulet.

Mousse d’airelles ou de canneberges au blanc de poulet.

Mousse de physalis au blanc de poulet.

1712 — Mayonnaise de Volaille

Garnish the bottom of a salad-bowl with ciseled lettuce, arranging it in the shape of a dome. Season with a little salt and a few drops of vinegar. Upon this salad arrange the cold collops of boiled or roast fowl, carefully cleared of all skin.

Cover with mayonnaise sauce; smooth the latter and decorate with capers; small stoned olives; anchovy fillets; quartered hard-boiled eggs; small quartered or whole lettuce hearts.

Arrange these decorating constituents according to fancy, as no hard and fast rule can be given.

When about to serve, mix as for a salad.

1713 — Chicken Salad

This dish consists of the same ingredients as the preceding one, except for the mayonnaise, which is replaced by an ordinary seasoning added just before mixing and serving.

1714 — Pâté de Poulet

Line a raised-pie mould with patty paste (No. 2359), taking care to leave a fine crest.

Bone a fowl weighing about four or five lbs. Set the suprêmes (each cut into three collops) to marinade in a glass of brandy, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and five medium-sized peeled truffles, each cut into four or five thick slices.

With what remains of the fowl’s meat, as much lean pork and veal (mixed in equal quantities) and twice as much fresh, pork fat (i.e., a quantity equal in weight to all the other meats put together), prepare a very smooth forcemeat; chopping the whole first, then pounding it and rubbing it through a sieve. Add to this forcemeat a little truffle essence; the marinade of the fillets; one raw egg, and the necessary seasoning, to wit: salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

Line the bottom and sides of the pie with this forcemeat; on this first layer of forcemeat lay a thin slice of bacon and thick slices of tongue, beef, or ham. Place thereon another slice of bacon, followed by a thin layer of forcemeat, a layer of truffle slices, another layer of forcemeat, the collops of fowl, another layer of forcemeat, one more layer of truffles, one more layer of forcemeat, one more layer of tongue or ham (between two thin slices of bacon); and finally cover the whole with what remains of the forcemeat and a slice of larding bacon superposed by a bay-leaf. Now close the pie with a cover of the same paste as that already used, carefully seal down the cover to the crest of the underlying paste, trim and pinch the crest, and deck this cover of paste with imitation-leaves of the same paste.

Make a slit in the top of the pie, for the escape of steam; carefully gild the cover and the crest, and bake in a moderate oven for about one and one-quarter hours. On withdrawing the pie from the oven, let it half cool, and fill it with a succulent, chicken jelly. Allow this dish to cool for at least twenty-four hours before serving.

N.B.—With this recipe as model, and by substituting another piece of poultry or game for the fowl, raised pies may be prepared from every kind of game or poultry, except water-game, which only yields mediocre results.

In the case of game pies, the forcemeat is combined with one-sixth of its weight of gratin forcemeat (No. 202) and an equal quantity of fat bacon is suppressed. The chicken jelly is also replaced by a jelly prepared from the carcasses of the birds under treatment.

Dish these raised pies plainly, on napkins, and very cold.

1714a — Chicken Pie

See No. 1660.

1715 — Dindonneau (Young Turkey)

Young turkeys, served as relevés or entrées, admit of all the recipes given for pullets; therefore, in order to avoid unnecessary repetition, the reader is begged to refer to those recipes.

Those most generally applied to young turkeys are the ones termed “à l’Anglaise”—with celery, à la Financière, à la Godard, and à la Jardinière.

In addition to these preparations, there are others which are better suited and are more proper to young turkeys, and these I give below.

1716 — Dindonneau Farci aux Marrons

Cut open the shells of two and one-quarter lbs. of chestnuts; immerse them for a few seconds in smoking fat; peel them, and almost completely cook them in consommé. Then mix them with two lbs. of very finely-chopped pork, rubbed through tammy. Fill the bird with this preparation; truss it, and roast it on the spit or in the oven, basting frequently the while.

Serve with the gravy separately. The latter should be somewhat fat.

1717 — Dindonneau à la Catalane

Cut up the young turkey as for a fricassée, and fry the pieces in three oz. of butter. When the pieces are nicely browned, swill the utensil with one pint of white wine; season with salt and pepper; add a piece, the size of a pea, of crushed garlic, and completely reduce. Then moisten with sufficient tomato purée and equal quantities of Espagnole and brown stock to just cover the pieces.

Cook in the oven for forty minutes; transfer the pieces to another dish after having trimmed them, and add one-half lb. of raw, quartered mushrooms, sautéd in butter; twenty chestnuts cooked in consommé; twenty small, glazed onions; five quartered tomatoes, and ten sausages.

Strain the sauce over the pieces of turkey; complete the cooking for twenty-five minutes, and dish in a timbale.

1718 — Dindonneau Chipolata

This may be prepared in two ways, according as to whether it be intended for lunch or for dinner.

(1) Cut up the young turkey and fry the pieces in butter as above. Swill with one glassful of white wine; add a sufficient quantity of tomatéd half-glaze sauce, just to cover the pieces, and cook in the oven for forty minutes.

(2) Braise the young turkey; glaze it at the last moment, and set on a long dish. Surround it with the garnish given above, combined with the reduced braising-liquor.

1719 — Dindonneau en Daube

Bone the young turkey’s breast, and stuff it, arranging its meat as for a galantine, with very good sausage-meat combined with a glassful of liqueur brandy per two lbs. of the former; bacon, truffles; and a very small and red ox-tongue, covered with slices of bacon and set in the centre of the garnish.

Reconstruct the young turkey; sew it; truss it, and put it in a terrine just large enough to hold it and its moistening.

With the bones and the trimmings of the young turkey, two slices of veal, two lbs. of frizzled beef, aromatics, one pint of white wine, and two quarts of water, prepare a brown stock after recipe No. 9. Reduce this stock to one and one-half quarts; put it into the terrine; cover and thoroughly close up the latter with a strip of paste, and cook in a hot oven for two and one-half hours.

Leave to cool in the terrine, and, when about to serve, slightly heat the latter in order to turn out the daube.

1720 — Blanc de Dindonneau à la Dampierre

Remove and bone the young turkey’s legs. With the meat, carefully cleared of all tendons, prepare a mousseline forcemeat; spread the latter on a tray in a layer one-third in. thick, and poach it. Stamp it out with an even, oval fancy-cutter, about three in. by two in.

Braise or poële the young turkey’s breast with the greatest care, keeping it underdone. This done, raise the two suprêmes, skin them, and cut them into collops of a size that will allow of their being trimmed with the fancy-cutter already used. With a little raw forcemeat, stick a collop to each oval of poached forcemeat; then, by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe, garnish the borders of the collops with the same forcemeat combined with twice its bulk of chopped salted tongue. Set the medallions thus prepared on a covered tray, and put them in the steamer that the forcemeat may poach.

Serve separately a velouté prepared from the bones of the dindonneau.

1721 — Blanc de Dindonneau à la Toulousaine

Poële the young turkey. When it is cooked, raise its suprêmes, skin them, and cut them into somewhat thick collops.

Dish these collops in a circle, and set a collop of foie gras, sautéd in butter, between each.

Pour a Toulousaine garnish in their midst, and surround with a thread of light glaze.

1722 — Ailerons de Dindonneau Dorés à la Purée de Marrons

The pinions referred to in this recipe are pinions properly so called; that is to say, they consist of the two last joints of the wing. When they are properly prepared, they constitute one of the most savoury luncheon entrées that can be served.

The pinions of large pullets may be treated in this way.

Clear and singe the pinions, and set them in a buttered sautépan, just large enough to hold them. Colour gently on both sides and drain.

In the same butter, gently brown a sliced carrot and onion, to which add a few parsley stalks and a little thyme and bay. Set the pinions on these aromatics; season moderately with salt and pepper; cover the sautépan, and continue cooking gently in a very slow oven, basting often the while.

The dish will be all the better for having been cooked slowly and regularly. Do not moisten, if possible, or, at the most, only do so with a few drops of water, in order to keep the butter from clarifying—not an unusual occurrence when the heat is too fierce.

When the pinions are cooked, dish them radially, and cover them that they may keep warm. Add a few tablespoonfuls of light stock or some water to the cooking butter, and set to boil gently for fifteen minutes. When this stock is sufficiently reduced to only half-immerse the pinions, pass it through a fine strainer and clear of some of the grease if necessary; remember, however, that this stock should be somewhat fat.

Pour it over the pinions, and serve a timbale of a fine purée of marrons separately.

1722a — Dindonneau Froid

All the recipes given for cold pullets may be applied to this bird.

Goose (Oie)

The principal value of the goose from the culinary point of view lies in the fact that it supplies the best, most delicate and firmest foie gras.

Apart from this property, the preciousness of which is truly inestimable, goose is really only served at bourgeois or family tables.

1722b — Oison à l’Allemande

Completely bone the gosling’s breast; season it inside, and stuff it with quartered, peeled and cored apples, half-cooked in butter.

Sew up the openings, and braise gently, basting with fat the while.

When the gosling is cooked, dish it and surround it with peeled apples, cored by means of the tube-cutter, cooked in butter, and garnished with red-currant jelly. Drain away three-quarters of the grease; swill the braising-pan with the required quantity of good gravy for roasts; strain this gravy, and serve it separately.

1722c — Oison à l’Alsacienne

Stuff the gosling with very good sausage-meat; truss; colour in butter and poële. Dish and surround with sauerkraut braised in goose grease, and rectangles of lean bacon, cooked with the sauerkraut.

1723 — Oison à l’Anglaise

Cook one lb. of unpeeled onions in the oven. When they are cold, peel them; chop them, and add to them an equal weight of soaked and pressed bread, one oz. of fresh or chopped sage, salt, pepper and nutmeg.

Stuff the gosling with this preparation; truss it, and roast it on the spit or in the oven.

Dish it; surround it with the gravy, which should be somewhat fat, and serve a sauceboat of slightly-sugared, stewed apples, separately.

1724 — Oison en Civet

When killing the gosling, carefully collect its blood. Add the juice of a lemon and beat it, so as to prevent coagulation, until it is quite cold.

1725 — Oison au Raifort

Braise the gosling.

Dish it and surround it, either with noodles with butter, or rice au gras (No. 2252). Besprinkle the garnish with the reduced braising-liquor, and serve a horse-radish sauce with cream (No. 138), separately.

N.B.—Besides these various recipes, goslings may also be prepared like young turkeys, i.e., with chestnuts, à la Chipolata, en Daube; or with turnips, peas, and “en Salmis,” like Duck.

1726 — Foie Gras

Foies gras are supplied either by geese or ducks. Goose’s liver is larger, firmer and less readily melted than that of the duck. As a rule the former should be selected in preference, more particularly in the matter of hot dishes. Nevertheless, failing goose’s liver, duck’s liver may be used and with very good results when its quality is good.

Foies gras are used in the preparation of terrines, raised pies, parfaits and mousses, which are among the most delicate and richest of cold dishes.

They may also be used as a garnishing ingredient, in the form of collops or mousseline quenelles. Finally, they may also be served as hot entrées.

When a whole foie gras is to be served hot, it must first be trimmed, studded with raw truffles which have been previously peeled, quartered, seasoned with salt and pepper, stiffened in a glassful of brandy, together with a bay-leaf, and cooled in a thoroughly closed terrine.

When the foie gras has been studded with truffles, wrap it in thin slices of bacon or a piece of pig’s caul, and set it in a thoroughly-sealed terrine before cooking it.

The best way to cook foie gras, when it is to be served whole and hot, is to bake it in a crust of paste that can absorb the excess of grease produced by the melting of the liver. For this purpose prepare two layers of patty paste, a little larger than the liver.

On one of these layers, set the liver wrapped in slices of bacon; and, if possible, surround it with whole fair-sized truffles, peeled. Set half a bay-leaf on the liver; moisten the edges of the paste; cover the whole with the other layer of paste; seal it down with the thumb, and fold over the edges of the paste to form a regular, ornamented border which, besides finishing off the preparation, also increases the strength of the welding.

Gild the top; streak; make a slit in the top for the escape of the steam; and, in the case of a medium-sized liver, cook in a good, moderate oven for from forty to forty-five minutes.

Serve this crust as it stands, and send the garnish separately.

In the dining-room, the waiter in charge removes the top of the crust, cuts out the liver with a spoon, setting a piece on each plate, and arranges around each piece the garnish mentioned on the menu.

I am not partial to the cooking of foie gras in a terrine when it is to be served hot. In any case the method described above strikes me as being much the best, whatever be the garnish that is served with the liver.

I particularly recommend a garnish of noodles, macaroni, lazagnes, spaghetti and even rice, with hot foie gras.

These pastes should simply be cooked in water and finished with cream.

This accompaniment makes the foie gras much more digestible and palatable. The best garnishes for hot foie gras, besides those given above, are truffles, whole or in slices, or a Financière. In the matter of brown sauces, a Madeira sauce suits admirably, provided it be of great delicacy and not overcharged with Madeira; but a very light buttered, veal or chicken glaze, combined with a little old Sherry or old Port, is even superior. A Hongroise sauce with paprika or an excellent suprême sauce may also be served when the garnish admits of it.

1727 — Foie Gras Cuit Dans Une Brioche

For this dish the foie gras is cooked differently; the result is almost the same as that yielded by the crust prescribed above, except that it is much more delicate. This method, moreover, allows of obtaining a foie gras clear of all grease (the latter being completely absorbed by the paste), and is therefore best suited to cold dishing.

After having studded the foie gras with truffles and placed it in a closed terrine as above, wrap it in slices of bacon, set it to poach in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, and leave it to cool.

Line a buttered timbale-mould, of a size in proportion to that of the liver, with a thick layer of ordinary unsugared brioche paste (No. 2370).

Put the foie gras upright in the mould, which it should almost fill; close the timbale with a cover of the same paste; make a slit in the top; surround the top of the mould with a band of strong, buttered paper, that the paste may be prevented from running over, and let it rest for about thirty minutes in a temperature of 86° F. to allow the paste to work.

Bake in a rather hot oven, until a needle inserted through the centre withdraws quite clean.

Serve the dish as it stands with one of the ordinary foie-gras garnishes.

1728 — Escalopes de Foie Gras à la Périgueux

Cut some slices two and one-half oz. in weight from a raw foie gras. Season them with salt and pepper; dip in beaten egg; roll in finely-chopped truffle, and sauté in clarified butter.

Dish in a circle, and, in the middle, pour a Madeira sauce flavoured with truffle essence.

1729 — Escalopes de Foie Gras à la Ravignan

From a layer of unsugared brioche paste, one-third in. thick, cut twenty roundels two and one-half in. in diameter. On ten of these roundels, spread a coating of chicken forcemeat, leaving a margin one-third in. wide of bare paste on each roundel.

Set a slice of truffle in the middle, a thick roundel of raw foie gras on the truffle, another slice of truffle upon that, a coat of forcemeat over the whole; and cover with the ten remaining roundels, after having slightly moistened the latter, that the two edges of paste may be sealed. Press with the back of a round cutter; gild, and cook in a hot oven for fifteen minutes.

Dish in a circle, and serve a Périgueux sauce at the same time.

1730 — Escalopes de Foie Gras à la Talleyrand

Prepare: (1) a crust made in a flawn-mould, six in. in diameter; (2) a garnish of blanched macaroni, cut into lengths of one in., cohered with four oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan cheese per lb. of macaroni, and combined with two oz. of butter, four oz. of a julienne of truffles and four oz. of foie gras cut into large dice.

Dish in a circle in the crust ten collops of foie gras sautéd in butter, alternating them with fine slices of truffle. Put the macaroni in the middle, shaping it like a dome, sprinkle with grated cheese and glaze quickly.

Dish on a napkin, and serve separately a clear chicken glaze, flavoured with truffles and well buttered.

1731 — Soufflé de Foie Gras

Rub two-thirds lb. of foie gras and three and one-half oz. of raw truffles through a fine sieve. Mix the two purées in a basin, and add two-thirds lb. of raw chicken-meat, pounded with the whites of four eggs, and rubbed through a fine sieve. Season; work the preparation on ice, and add to it, little by little, one-half pint of rich, thick, and very fresh cream, then the well-stiffened whites of four eggs.

Dish in a buttered soufflé saucepan, and poach under cover in the bain-marie for from thirty to thirty-five minutes.

Serve a Madeira sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, separately.

1732 — Timbale de Foie Gras à l’Alsacienne

Prepare an ordinary timbale crust. When about to serve, fill it with layers of noodles with cream, separated by alternate layers of foie-gras collops, sautéd in butter, and slices of truffles. Complete with some raw noodles, tossed in butter and distributed over the last layer of cohered noodles.

Cover the timbale, and serve a suprême sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, separately.

1733 — Timbale de Foie Gras Cambacérès

Line a buttered dome-mould with rings of large poached macaroni.

These rings should be one-fifth inch thick, and should be garnished inside with very black truffle purée, cohered by means of a little forcemeat.

When the mould is lined, coat it inside with a layer of chicken forcemeat combined with truffle purée. Put the mould for a few minutes in a moderate oven, that the forcemeat may poach.

Reduce one-third pint of Béchamel sauce, combined with four to five tablespoonfuls of truffle and chicken essence, to half; mix therewith one-half lb. of poached macaroni, cut into lengths of one inch, and four tablespoonfuls of foie-gras and truffle purée, made from trimmings. Mix the whole thoroughly.

Garnish the timbale with this macaroni, spreading it in layers, separated by other alternate layers of foie-gras collops, poached in Madeira, and slices of truffle. Cover the garnish with a layer of forcemeat, and poach in the bain-marie, allowing forty-five minutes for a quart-mould.

Let the mould stand for a few minutes before emptying it; turn out the timbale upon a round dish; surround it with a border of Périgueux sauce, and serve a sauceboat of Périgueux sauce separately.

1734 — Timbale de Foie Gras Montesquieu

Spread a very even layer, one-third inch thick, of chicken forcemeat upon a sheet of buttered paper. Moisten the surface with some white of egg; sprinkle with chopped truffle, and press on the latter by means of the flat of a knife.

Set to poach gently; cool, and then stamp out with a round, even cutter, one inch in diameter. With the resulting roundels, garnish the bottom and sides of a Charlotte mould, placing their truffled sides against the mould. Then, with the view of binding these roundels together, as they are to constitute the outside of the timbale, coat the whole of the mould inside with some fairly firm chicken forcemeat, combined with a quarter of its bulk of foie-gras purée.

Fill the mould with a foie-gras Parfait with truffles cut into very large dice and cohered by means of mousseline chicken forcemeat.

Cover the whole with a layer of the same forcemeat as that used for the purpose of binding the roundels, and set to poach under cover.

Turn out, following the same precautions as above; surround the timbale with a border of nice, pink, Hungarian sauce with paprika, and send a sauceboat of this sauce to the table at the same time.

Foie Gras Froid

1735 — Aspic de Foie Gras

Clothe an even or ornamented mould (fitted with a central tube) with aspic, and decorate it with poached white of egg and truffle. Fill it with rows of well-trimmed foie-gras rectangles, or shells raised by means of a spoon dipped in hot water, separating each row with a coat of aspic.

Except for its principal ingredient, which may vary, the preparation of aspic is always the same as that described under “Aspic de Homard” (No. 954).

For the turning out and dishing, proceed in exactly the same way.

1736 — Foie Gras Gastronome

Take a plain foie-gras Parfait, i.e., one without a crust; trim it neatly to the shape of an egg, and completely cover it with a chaud-froid sauce with paprika. Decorate it according to fancy, and glaze it with cold melted jelly.

Cut out a crust, proportionate in size to the egg, and shape it like a cushion. Coat it with a chaud-froid sauce of a different colour; deck it with softened butter, applied by means of a piping-bag fitted with a narrow, grooved pipe; set it on the dish, and place the foie-gras egg upon it.

Surround the cushion with fine fair-sized truffles, glazed with aspic jelly.

1737 — Foie Gras au Paprika

Trim a fine, fresh foie gras; salt it; sprinkle it with a coffeespoonful of paprika; put it into a saucepan with a large sliced Spanish onion and a bay-leaf, and cook in the oven for thirty minutes.

This done, set it instantly in an oval terrine, after having carefully removed every bit of onion; cover it with its own grease; fill up the terrine with jelly, and leave to cool.

Keep in the cool until ready for serving.

N.B.—In Vienna, where this dish is usually served as a hors-d’œuvre, with baked potatoes, the onion is not removed. The foie gras is left to cool in the terrine in which it has cooked, with all its grease, and it is served thus, very cold.

This piece of information was kindly given to me by Madame Katinka.

1738 — Escalopes de Foie Gras Maréchale

From a terrine of very firm foie gras cut the required number of collops, giving them an oval shape. Make a preparation of “pain de foie gras” (No. 1741) with the remains of the terrine, and cover the collops with the preparation, shaping the latter in a dome upon them. Coat these garnished collops with cream chaud-froid sauce; decorate with a slice of truffle, and glaze with aspic.

With some foie-gras purée prepare some balls (of the shape of bigaroons); in the centre of each place a little ball of truffle in imitation of the stone of the fruit, and coat them with a reddish-brown, chaud-froid sauce. This done, glaze them with jelly.

Dish the collops round a circular cushion, set upon a very cold dish; arrange the bigaroons in a pyramid on the cushion, and border the dish with fine, jelly croûtons.

1739 — Mousse de Foie Gras

For the preparation of the mousse, see No. 814. The procedure and the quantities are always the same, and only the principal ingredient changes. The moulding is also effected in the same way in a jelly-clothed and decorated mould, generally just large enough to hold the requisite amount for one service, or in a silver timbale, incrusted in ice.

1740 — Mousselines de Foie Gras

I have oftentimes explained that the substance is the same from which mousses and mousselines are prepared, and I have pointed out wherein the difference between them lies.

Just like the other mousselines, those of foie gras are made in egg- or quenelle-moulds, or others of the same kind. Foie-gras mousselines are, according to circumstances, either simply glazed with aspic, or coated with chaud-froid sauce and dished in a timbale with jelly. They may also be moulded in little paper cases.

1741 — Pain de Foie Gras

From a cold foie gras, braised in Madeira, cut a few collops and put them aside. Clear the cooking-liquor of all grease, reduce to half, and add the yolks of four eggs and one-half lb. of butter, proceeding as for a Hollandaise sauce. Complete with a grilled, crushed, hazel-nut, two leaves of dissolved gelatine, and, when the preparation is only lukewarm, mix therewith (without working the whole overmuch) what remains of the foie gras, rubbed through a sieve.

Spread this preparation in layers in an aspic-clothed and decorated mould, separating each layer with other alternate layers consisting of the reserved collops and some slices of truffle.

Cover the last layer with aspic, and set the mould in a refrigerator for a few hours.

When about to serve, turn out, and border the dish with fine, aspic jelly croûtons.

1742 — Parfait de Foie Gras

Fresh foies gras do not bear transport very well, and, when sent from a distance, often reach their destination tainted. It is, therefore, difficult, whatever care may have been bestowed on their preparation, to obtain the results which are achieved by manufacturers who are renowned for this kind of produce. Consequently, it is preferable to buy the Parfait of foie gras ready-made from a good firm rather than to try to make it oneself.

1743 — Pavé de Foie Gras Lucullus

Let a coat of aspic, one-half inch thick, set on the bottom of a square timbale, and lay thereon a few slices of truffle. Upon this jelly spread a layer, two-thirds inch thick, of foie-gras purée, thinned by means of a little melted jelly. When this purée has set, lay on it a few foie-gras collops and slices of truffle; cover with aspic, and continue thus with alternate layers of purée, collops, and aspic. Fill up the mould with a layer of aspic jelly; put it in the refrigerator for a few hours, and dish on a block of ice, cut to the shape of a flagstone.

1744 — Timbale de Foie Gras Tzarine

Line a timbale-mould with ordinary patty paste, and cover the inside all over with slices of larding bacon. Just in the middle set a fresh foie gras, seasoned with salt, pepper, and allspice; surround it with quails stuffed with a piece of truffle, and set upright with their breasts against the slices of bacon. Fill up the mould with whole, raw, and peeled truffles; cover the whole with a round slice of the same bacon; cover the timbale with a layer of paste, well sealed down round the edges; make a slit in the top for the escape of steam, and bake in a good, moderate oven for one and one-quarter hours.

On withdrawing the timbale from the oven, pour into it some succulent veal stock, flavoured with Madeira, and sufficiently gelatinous to form a nice jelly.

Keep the timbale in the cool for one or two days before serving it.

Ducks and Ducklings (Canards et Canetons)

Three varieties of the duck family are recognised in cookery, viz., the Nantes duck, the Rouen duck, and the different kinds of wild duck. The latter are generally used for roasts and in salmis.

The Rouen duck is also served more often as a roast than as an entrée. The characteristic trait of its preparation lies in its being kept very underdone, and it is very rarely braised. It is killed by suffocation, and not by bleeding, which is the usual mode of killing other birds.

The Nantes duck, which is similar to the Aylesbury one, is not so fleshy as the Rouen duck, and may be roasted, poëled, or braised.

1745 — Caneton Nantais à la Choucroûte

Take a piece of manied butter the size of an egg, and insert it into the duckling with chopped parsley and shallots. Truss the bird as for an entrée; brown it in the oven, and put it in a stewpan already lined for braising.

Moisten, just enough to cover, with white veal stock and Rhine wine (in the proportion of two-thirds of the former to one-third of the latter), or ordinary good white wine, and braise slowly until cooking is completed.

When it is three-parts done, drain it, and complete its cooking with one-third pint of veal gravy and one-sixth pint of white wine, until this moistening is completely reduced.

Set the sauerkraut in a border round a dish, and surround it with the pork cut into small rectangles. Place the carved duck in the centre, and coat it moderately with half-glaze sauce combined with the reduced braising-liquor. Send the remains of this sauce separately.

1746 — Caneton D’Aylesbury Poëlé à la Menthe

Stuff the duckling with one oz. of butter combined with a pinch of chopped mint, and poële it. Dish it; swill the stewpan with one-sixth pint of clear, veal gravy and a little lemon juice; strain, add a pinch of chopped mint, and pour this sauce over the duckling.

1747 — Caneton Molière

Bone the duckling, and stuff it with one lb. of gratin foie-gras forcemeat, combined with two-thirds lb. of good sausage-meat. Set two rows of truffles in the middle of the thickest part of the forcemeat, lengthwise, along the duckling. Reconstruct; sew up the skin, wrap in a serviette, after the manner of a galantine, and poach in a stock made from the carcass.

Glaze the duckling with some of this stock, strained, cleared of all grease, and reduced. With what remains prepare a Madeira sauce, and add thereto two oz. of sliced truffles.

Dish the duckling, after having removed all stitches from it, and coat it with this sauce.

1748 — Caneton Braisé aux Navets

Brown the duckling well in butter, and withdraw it from the saucepan.

Drain away the butter; swill with a little white wine; add two-thirds pint of brown stock, as much Espagnole, and a faggot; return the duck to this sauce, and braise gently.

With the reserved butter brown one lb. of turnips, shaped like elongated garlic-cloves, and sprinkle them with a large pinch of powdered sugar, that they may be glazed to a nice, light brown colour. Also have ready twenty small onions, which should have been gently cooked in butter.

When the duckling is half cooked, transfer it to another saucepan; put the turnips and the onions round it; strain the sauce over the whole, and complete the cooking gently.

1749 — Caneton aux Olives

Prepare the duckling as above, and keep the sauce short and succulent. A few minutes before serving, add one-half lb. of stoned and blanched olives. Glaze the duckling at the last moment, and dish it surrounded with the olives and the sauce.

1750 — Caneton Braisé à l’Orange

This braised duckling must not be confused with roast duckling, which is also served “a l’orange,” for the two dishes are quite distinct.

As in the case of the roast, this duckling may be prepared with Seville oranges; but, in this case, the sections of orange must not appear as garnish, owing to their bitterness, and only the juice is used for the sauce.

Braise the duckling in one-third pint of brown stock and two-thirds pint of Espagnole sauce, and cook it sufficiently to allow of its being cut with a spoon.

Clear the sauce of grease; reduce it to a stiff consistence; rub it through tammy, and add the juice of two oranges and one half-lemon to it, which should bring the sauce back to its original consistence.

Now add a julienne of the blanched yellow part only of the rind of a half-orange and a half-lemon, but remember that the addition of the juice and rind of the orange and the half-lemon only takes place at the last moment, after which the sauce must not boil again. Glaze the duckling, dish it, coat it slightly with sauce, and surround it with sections of orange, skinned raw.

Serve what remains of the sauce separately.

1751 — Caneton aux Petits Pois

Brown in butter six oz. of salted breast of pork, cut into large dice and blanched, and fifteen small onions. Drain the pork and the onions, and set the duckling to fry in the same butter. When it is well coloured, remove the butter; swill with a little brown stock, and add one-half pint of thin, half-glaze sauce, one and one-half pints of fresh peas, one faggot, the pork dice and the onions, and complete the cooking of the whole gently.

Dish the duckling, and cover it with the garnish and the sauce, after having withdrawn the faggot therefrom and reduced the sauce so that it only just covers the garnish.

1752 — Pâté Chaud de Caneton

Roast the duckling, keeping it somewhat underdone, and cut the whole of the breast into long collops or very thin slices. Line a buttered Charlotte mould with short paste, and cover the whole of the inside with a layer of gratin forcemeat (No. 202), combined with four tablespoonfuls of very reduced half-glaze sauce per one and two-thirds lb. of forcemeat—the necessary quantity for this pie.

On the layer of forcemeat arrange a litter of the slices of breast; sliced, cooked mushrooms, and slices of truffle; and fill the mould in this way, taking care to alternate the layers of forcemeat, slices of breast, &c. Complete with a coat of forcemeat, upon which sprinkle a pinch of powdered thyme and bay-leaf; close the mould with a thin layer of paste, sealed down round the edges; make a slit in the top; gild, and bake in a moderate oven for one hour.

When taking the pie out of the oven, turn it upside-down on a dish; detach the base; cut the latter into triangles, and set these triangles round the pie. Cover the forcemeat, thus bared, with a few tablespoonfuls of Madeira sauce; set a large, grooved, cooked mushroom just in the middle, and surround it with a crown of sliced truffle.

Serve a Madeira sauce separately.

1753 — Ballotines de Caneton

Bone the duckling, and completely clear the bones of all meat.

Remove all tendons from the latter, and chop it, together with half its weight of veal, as much fresh pork fat, a third as much panada (No. 190), the yolks of four eggs, one-half oz. of salt, and a little pepper and nutmeg. Pound; rub through a sieve, and mix with this forcemeat, three oz. of gratin foie-gras forcemeat and three oz. of chopped mushrooms, sautéd in butter. Divide up into portions weighing two oz.; wrap each portion in a piece of the duckling’s skin; envelop in muslin, and poach in a stock prepared from the duckling’s carcass. At the last moment, remove the pieces of muslin and glaze the ballotines.

Dish in a circle, and set the selected garnish, which may be turnips, peas, olives, or sauerkraut, &c., in the middle.

1754 — Caneton Rouennais

Except for the one case when they are served cold “à la cuiller,” Rouen ducklings are not braised: they are roasted and always kept underdone. When they have to be stuffed, the forcemeat is prepared as follows:—Fry four oz. of larding bacon, cut into dice, with one oz. of chopped onion, and add one-half lb. of sliced ducks’ livers, a pinch of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and a little spice.

Keep the livers underdone, merely stiffened; let the whole half-cool; pound, and rub through a fine sieve.

1755 — Aiguillettes de Rouennais à la Bigarrade

Poële the duckling and only just cook it, bearing in mind that twenty minutes is the time allowed for cooking a fair-sized bird. Remove the fillets lengthwise, each in ten slices, and set the latter on a lukewarm dish.

Add a few tablespoonfuls of veal gravy to the poëling-liquor; set to boil for a few minutes; strain clear of grease, and finish as directed under sauce Bigarrade claire (No. 31).

Cover the slices of breast with some of the sauce, and serve the remainder separately. “Aiguillettes” (or thin slices of breast cut lengthwise) à l’orange are prepared in the same way, except that they are surrounded with sections of orange, skinned raw.

1756 — Aiguillettes de Rouennais aux Cerises

Prepare the duckling as above, but add a little Madeira to the braising-liquor. Clear the latter of grease; thicken with arrowroot; strain through muslin, and add one-half lb. of stoned morello cherries, at the last moment. Set the cherries round the aiguillettes; coat the latter thinly with sauce, and serve what remains of the latter, separately.

1757 — Aiguillettes de Rouennais aux Truffes

Poële the duckling, and only just cook it.

Add one-sixth pint of Chambertin wine to the poëling-liquor, and cook therein five medium-sized, peeled truffles. This done, reduce the liquor, clear of grease, strain it, and add it to a somewhat light Rouennaise sauce.

Raise the duckling’s aiguillettes, slice the truffles, and set on a lukewarm dish, alternating the aiguillettes with the slices of truffle.

Coat thinly with sauce, and send what remains of the latter separately.

1758 — Caneton Rouennais au Champagne

Poële the duckling as above.

Add one-half pint of dry Saint Marceaux champagne to the poëling-liquor; reduce, and complete with one-sixth pint of thickened, veal stock.

1759 — Caneton Rouennais en Chemise

Stuff the duckling with the preparation given under No. 1754; truss it as for an entrée; insert it into a well-soaked bladder, and string the end of the latter close to the bird’s tail. Wrap the bladder in a napkin, also strung, and poach gently for about forty-five minutes in a very strong brown stock. When about to serve, remove the napkin, and leave the duckling in the bladder.

Serve a Rouennaise sauce as an accompaniment.

1760 — Caneton Rouennais au Porto

Roast the duckling “en casserole,” keeping it only just done.

Swill with one-fifth pint of port wine; reduce to half, and add this reduced swilling-liquor to one-half pint of duckling gravy, thickened with arrowroot.

1761 — Caneton Rouennais à la Presse

Roast the duckling for twenty minutes, and send it instantly to the table, where it should be treated as follows:—Remove the legs, which are not served; carve the fillets into fine slices, laid one against the other on a lukewarm dish.

Chop up the carcass and press it, sprinkling it the while with a glassful of good red wine. Collect the gravy; add thereto a few drops of brandy, and with this liquor sprinkle the slices of breast, which should have been well seasoned.

Put the dish on a chafer, and thoroughly heat without allowing to boil.

Serve instantly.

1762 — Caneton Farci à la Rouennaise

Stuff the duckling with the forcemeat given under No. 1754, and roast it before a fierce fire for from twenty-five to thirty minutes, according to its size.

Send a Rouennaise sauce to the table with it.

If it be served carved, remove the legs, cisel them inside, season them well with salt and pepper, and grill them.

Cut the fillets into thin slices, set these on either side of a long dish, and, in the middle, place the forcemeat withdrawn from the inside.

Set the grilled legs at either end of the dish.

Roughly chop up the carcass and press it, sprinkling it the while with a glass of liqueur-brandy and a few drops of lemon juice. Add the collected gravy to the Rouennaise sauce: coat the slices of breast thinly with sauce, and serve what remains of the sauce separately.

1763 — Salmis de Caneton à la Rouennaise

After having suppressed the clavicle, truss the duckling.

Put it in a red oven, where it should only stay eight minutes, i.e., four minutes each side.

If possible, let it cool for a few minutes, that it may be more easily carved. Take care, also, to wipe it, for, as a rule, the fierceness of the oven blackens it. Remove the legs; cisel them inside; season and grill them.

Sprinkle a long, buttered dish with chopped shallots, kitchen salt not too finely powdered, freshly-ground pepper, nutmeg, and allspice.

Cut the fillets into very thin slices lengthwise, fifteen from each fillet, and set them one against the other on the dish. Sprinkle them with the same seasoning as that lying on the dish, except for the shallots.

Remove the remaining stumps of the wings, as also the small, remaining skin of the breast; season both, and set them to grill by the side of the legs. Roughly chop up the carcass; press it while sprinkling it with half a glassful of red wine, and sprinkle the slices of breast with the collected gravy.

When about to serve, set a few small pieces of butter on the slices of breast; heat for a moment on the stove, and put the dish in a very hot oven, or at the salamander, that the glazing may be instantaneous.

Withdraw the dish the moment the edges of the aiguillettes begin to curl, set the grilled legs at either end of the dish, the two wing-stumps, with the skin of the breast, in the middle, and serve immediately.

1764 — Soufflé de Caneton Rouennais

Poële the duckling, and only just cook it.

Raise the suprêmes, and keep them hot, and cut the bones from the carcass in such a way as to imitate a case, as I described in a number of pullet recipes. With the duckling’s liver, the raw meat of another half-duckling, the white of an egg, and three oz. of raw foie gras, prepare a mousseline forcemeat.

Fill the carcass with this forcemeat, shaping it so as to reconstruct the bird. Surround it with a band of strong, buttered paper, so as to avoid loss of shape, and poach gently, under cover, for twenty minutes.

Dish the piece; surround it with the tartlets; set a collop of suprême on each of the latter and serve a Rouennaise sauce separately.

Canetons Froids

1765 — Caneton à la Cuiller

Braise the duckling with Madeira, and cook it well. Put into a terrine just large enough to hold it; cover with the braising-liquor, strained through a napkin, and combined with enough aspic jelly to completely coat the duckling. Leave to cool.

When about to serve, clear the surface of grease, first by means of a spoon, then with boiling water, and dish on a napkin.

1766 — Caneton Glacé aux Mandarines

Poële the duckling, and let it cool in its liquor.

When it is quite cold, set it on its back; glaze it with aspic jelly, and place it on a low rice or carved-bread cushion lying on a long dish.

Surround it with emptied tangerines, filled with cold mousse made from ducklings’ livers and foie gras. Alternate the tangerines with small timbales of aspic, combined with the poëling-liquor and the juice squeezed from the sections of the tangerines.

1767 — Caneton Glacé aux Cerises

Roast the duckling, and keep it underdone.

When it is quite cold, remove the breast, and remove the bones in such wise as to form a case with the carcass. Cut each fillet into eight thin slices; coat them with a brown chaud-froid sauce, and decorate with truffles. Fill the carcass with a mousse made from the remains of the meat, the duckling’s liver, and some foie gras, and shape it so as to imitate the convex breast of the bird.

Glaze with aspic, and set in the refrigerator, that the mousse may harden. When the latter is firm, lay the chaud-froid-coated collops upon it, and set the piece in a deep, square dish. Surround with cold, stoned, morello cherries, poached in Bordeaux wine, and cover these with an aspic jelly flavoured with duckling essence.

1768 — Aiguillettes de Canetons à l’Écarlate

Poële a Rouen duckling until it is just cooked, and let it cool in its liquor. Raise the fillets; skin them, and cut them each into eight thin slices. Coat them with a brown chaud-froid sauce, and decorate with truffles. Prepare an equal number of slices of tongue the size and shape of the slices of duckling, and coat them with aspic.

With the remains and the meat of the legs, prepare a mousse, and pour it into a square or oval silver dish; let it cool, and then set the aiguillettes of duckling and the slices of tongue upon it, alternating them in so doing, and cover the mousse with aspic.

1769 — Mousse et Mousselines de Caneton Rouennais

These are prepared with the same quantities as the chicken mousses and mousselines, but they allow of no other sauce than the Rouennaise or the Bigarrade, nor of any other garnishes than sections of orange, cherries, vegetable purées, or creams.

1770 — Mousse de Caneton Rouennais

With the exception of the nature of the principal ingredient, the preparation, quantities, and moulding of this mousse are the same as for chicken mousse. The reader is, therefore, begged to refer to No. 1670, which may be applied perfectly well to Rouen duckling.

1771 — Soufflé Froid de Caneton à l’Orange

Proceed as for the “Caneton aux cerises,” but with this difference, that the duckling is used entirely for the mousse.

Serve, similarly, in a square dish, and surround with sections of oranges skinned raw. Cover with an aspic jelly flavoured with the juice of Seville oranges, and combined with a liqueur-glassful of curaçao per pint of jelly.

1772 — Terrine de Caneton Rouennais à la Gelée

First prepare the following forcemeat:—Heat three oz. of fat bacon, cut into small dice, and three oz. of butter in a frying-pan. Throw six fine ducks’ livers (seasoned with salt and pepper, and sprinkled with a pinch of powdered thyme, bay-leaf, and half an onion chopped) into this fat. Toss them over a fierce fire, just long enough to heat them; leave them to cool, and rub them through a sieve.

Bone the breast of a Rouen duckling and its back as far as the region of the legs, and suppress the tail. Stuff it with the preparation given above; truss as for an entrée, and put it in a terrine just large enough to hold it. Sprinkle it with a glassful of brandy; cover with a slice of bacon, and cook it in the bain-marie, in the oven, and under cover for forty minutes.

With the carcass and some strong veal stock, prepare two-thirds pint of excellent aspic, and, when withdrawing the duckling from the oven, cover it with this aspic, and let it cool. When about to serve, remove all grease, first by means of a spoon, and then by means of boiling water, and set the terrine on a napkin lying on a long dish.

1773 — Timbale de Caneton à la Voisin

Roast a Rouen duckling, and keep it underdone; let it cool, and raise its fillets. With the carcass prepare a Salmis sauce, and thicken it with aspic as for a chaud-froid sauce.

Cut the fillets into slices, coat them with Salmis sauce, and leave this to set. Let a thickness of sauce set on the bottom of a timbale.

Upon this sauce lay some of the coated slices, alternating them with slices of truffle, and cover with a thin layer of aspic jelly. Lay another row of slices of fillet and of truffles, followed as before by a layer of aspic, and continue thus in the same order. Complete with a somewhat thick layer of aspic, and keep in the cool until ready for serving.

N.B.—This old and excellent cold entrée is really only a cold salmis. The procedure may be applied to all game suited to the salmis method of preparation. It is the simplest and certainly the best way of serving them cold.

1774 — Pintades (Guinea Fowl)

The guinea-fowl is not equal to the pheasant from the gastronomical standpoint, though it often takes the place of the latter among the roasts after the shooting season. But, though it has neither the fine flavour nor the delicate meat of the pheasant, it does good service notwithstanding. The majority of pheasant recipes may be applied to it, especially à la Bohémienne, à la crème, en Chartreuse, en salmis, à la choucroûte, &c.

1775 — Pigeons and Squabs (Pigeons et Pigeonneaux)

Young pigeons are not very highly esteemed by English gourmets, and this is more particularly to be regretted, since, when the birds are of excellent quality, they are worthy the best tables.

1776 — Pigeonneaux à la Bordelais

Open the squabs down the back; season them; slightly flatten them, and toss them in butter. They may just as well be halved as left whole. Dish, and surround with the garnish given under “Poulet à la Bordelaise” (No. 1538).

1777 — Pigeonneaux en Casserole à la Paysanne

Cook the squabs in the oven in an earthenware saucepan.

When they are two-thirds done, surround them with one and one-half oz. of salted breast of pork, cut into small dice and blanched, and two oz. of sliced and sautéd potatoes for each pigeon. Complete the cooking of the whole gently, and, when about to serve, add a little good gravy.

1778 — Pigeonneaux en Chartreuse

Prepare the Chartreuse in a Charlotte mould, as explained under No. 1182. Line the bottom and sides with a layer of braised, drained, and pressed cabbages; in the centre set the squabs, cooked “à la casserole” and cut into two lengthwise, and alternate them with small rectangles of blanched, salted breast of pork, and sausage roundels. Cover with cabbages, and steam in a bain-marie for thirty minutes.

Let the Chartreuse stand for five minutes after withdrawing from the bain-marie; turn out on a round dish, and surround with a few tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce.

1779 — Pigeonneaux en Crapaudine

Cut the young pigeons horizontally in two, from the apex of the breast to the wings. Open them; flatten them slightly; season them; dip them in melted butter, roll them in bread-crumbs, and grill them gently.

Serve a devilled sauce at the same time.

1780 — Pigeonneaux en Compote

Fry in butter two oz. of blanched, salted breast of pork and two oz. of raw mushrooms, peeled and quartered. Drain the bacon and the mushrooms, and set the squabs, trussed as for an entrée, to fry in the same butter.

Withdraw them when they are brown; drain them of butter; swill with half a glassful of white wine; reduce the latter, and add sufficient brown stock and half-glaze sauce (tomatéd), in equal quantities, to cover the birds. Plunge them into this sauce, with a faggot, and simmer until they are cooked and the sauce is reduced to half.

This done, transfer the squabs to another saucepan; add the pieces of bacon, the mushrooms, and six small onions, glazed with butter, for each bird; strain the sauce over the whole through a fine sieve; simmer for ten minutes more, and serve very hot.

1781 — Pigeon Pie

Line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with very thin, flattened collops of lean beef, seasoned with salt and pepper, and sprinkled with chopped shallots.

Set the quartered pigeons inside the dish, and separate them with a halved hard-boiled egg-yolk for each pigeon. Moisten half-way up with good gravy; cover with a layer of puff paste; gild; streak; make a slit in the top, and bake for about one and one-half hours in a good, moderate oven.

1782 — Vol au Vent de Pigeonneaux

Suppress the feet and the pinions; poële the squabs, and only just cook them.

Cut each bird into four, and mix them with a garnish “à la Financière” (No. 1474) combined with the poëling-liquor. Pour the whole into a vol-au-vent crust, and dish on a napkin.

1783 — Côtelettes de Pigeonneaux à la Nesles

Cut them in two, and reserve the claw, which serves as the bone of the cutlet. Flatten them slightly; season, and fry them in butter on one side only. Cool them under slight pressure; coat their fried side, dome-fashion, with some godiveau with cream, combined with a third of its bulk of gratin forcemeat and chopped truffles. Set them on a tray, and place in a moderate oven to complete the cooking, and poach the forcemeat. Dish in a circle, and separate the cutlets with collops of veal sweetbreads, dipped in beaten eggs, rolled in bread-crumbs, and tossed in butter. Garnish their midst with mushrooms and sliced fowls’ livers, tossed in butter and cohered with a few tablespoonfuls of Madeira sauce.

1784 — Côtelettes de Pigeonneaux en Papillotes

Cut the pigeons in two, as above; stiffen them in butter, and enclose them in papillotes as explained under “Côtelettes de Veau en Papillotes” (No. 1259).

1785 — Côtelettes de Pigeonneaux à la Sévigné

Sauté the half-pigeons in butter, and leave them to cool under slight pressure. Garnish their cut sides dome-fashion with a salpicon of white chicken-meat, mushrooms, and truffles, the whole cohered by means of a cold Allemande sauce.

Dip them in beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and cook them gently in clarified butter.

1786 — Suprêmes de Pigeonneaux à la Diplomate

Raise the fillets and slightly flatten them; stiffen them in butter, and leave them to cool under slight pressure. This done, dip them in a Villeroy sauce, combined with chopped herbs and mushrooms, and cool them. Dip each fillet in beaten egg; roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry just before serving.

Dish in a circle, and in their midst set a heap of fried parsley. Send separately a garnish of pigeon quenelles, mushrooms, and small, olive-shaped truffles, to which a half-glaze sauce flavoured with pigeon essence has been added.

1787 — Suprêmes de Pigeonneaux à la Saint-Clair

With the meat of the legs prepare a mousseline forcemeat, and, with the latter, make some quenelles the size of small olives, and set them to poach. Poële the breasts, without colouration, on a thick litter of sliced onions, and keep them underdone. Add a little velouté to the onions; rub them through tammy, and put the quenelles in this sauce.

In the middle of a shallow croustade, set a pyramid of cèpes tossed in butter. Raise the fillets; skin them, and set them on the cèpes; coat them with the prepared sauce; surround with a thread of meat glaze, and place the quenelles all round.

1788 — Suprêmes de Pigeonneaux à la Marigny

Cut off the legs, and, with their meat, prepare a forcemeat. Poach the latter on a tray, and stamp it out with an oval cutter into pieces the size of the suprêmes.

Cover the breasts with slices of bacon, and poële them, taking care to only just cook them.

Quickly raise the suprêmes, skin them, and set each upon an oval of forcemeat, sticking them on by means of a little gratin forcemeat.

Put the suprêmes in the oven for a moment, that this forcemeat may poach. Dish the suprêmes round a pyramid consisting of a smooth purée of peas, and coat with a velouté sauce, finished with an essence prepared from the remains and the poëling-liquor of the breasts.

1789 — Suprêmes de Pigeonneaux aux Truffes

Raise the suprêmes, flatten them slightly; toss them in clarified butter, and set them on a border of smooth forcemeat, laid on a dish by means of a piping-bag, and poached in the front of the oven.

Swill the vegetable-pan with Madeira; add four fine slices of truffle for each suprême, and a little pale melted meat glaze, and finish with a moderate amount of butter.

Coat the suprêmes with this sauce, and set the slices of truffle upon it.

1790 — Mousselines de Pigeonneaux à l’Epicurienne

Prepare and poach these mousselines like the chicken ones, but make them a little smaller. Dish them in the form of a crown; set thereon a young pigeon’s fillet roasted, and in their midst arrange a garnish of peas with lettuce. Coat with a fumet prepared from the carcasses and cohered with a few tablespoonfuls of velouté.

N.B.—Pigeons and squabs may also be prepared after the recipes given for chicks.

Relevés and Entrées

Game

Venison and Ground Game

The stag (Fr. Cerf) and the fallow deer (Fr. Daim) supply the only venison that is consumed in England, where the roebuck (Fr. Chevreuil) is not held in very high esteem. True, the latter’s flesh is very often mediocre in quality, and saddles and legs of roebuck often have to be imported from the Continent when they are to appear on an important menu.

On the other hand, venison derived from the stag or red deer and the fallow deer proper is generally of superior quality. The former has perhaps more flavour, but the latter, which is supplied by animals bred in herds on large private estates, has no equal as far as delicacy and tenderness are concerned, while it is covered with white and scented fat, which is greatly appreciated by English connoisseurs.

Although these two kinds of venison are generally served as relevés, they belong more properly to the roasts, and I shall give their recipes a little later on. In any case, only half of the hind-quarters (that is to say, the leg together with that part of the saddle which reaches from it to the floating ribs) is served at high-class tables.

I shall now, therefore, only give the various recipes dealing with roebuck, it being understood that these, if desired, may be applied to corresponding joints of the stag or deer.

1791 — Selle de Chevreuil et Cuissot

Saddles and legs of roebuck may be prepared after the same recipes, and allow of the same garnishes. The recipes for saddle which I give hereafter may therefore be applied equally well to legs.

Whichever joint be selected, it must first be cleared of all tendons and then larded with larding bacon. The last operation is no more essential than is the marinading which in France has become customary with such pieces. It might even be said with justice that marinading is not only useless, but harmful, more particularly in the case of young animals whose meat has been well hung.

Unlike many other specimens of game, roebuck has to be eaten fresh; it does not suit it to be in the least tainted. I should like to point out here that game shot in ambush is best, owing to the fact that animals killed after a chase decompose very quickly, and thereby lose a large proportion of their flavour.

The saddle of the roebuck generally consists of the whole of the latter’s back, from the withers to the tail, in which case the bones of the ribs are cut very short, that the joint may lie steady at all points.

At the croup-end, cut the joint on either side diagonally, from the point of the haunch to the root of the tail. Sometimes, however, the saddle only consists of the lumbar portion of the back, and, in this case, the ribs are cut up to be cooked as cutlets.

1792 — Selle de Chevreuil à l’Allemande

Marinade the saddle for two or three days in raw marinade No. 169, and roast it, on a narrow baking-tray, upon the vegetables of the marinade.

As soon as the joint is cooked, withdraw it; swill the tray with a little marinade, and almost entirely reduce. Clear of grease; add two-thirds pint of cream and one powdered juniper berry; reduce by a third; complete with a few drops of melted glaze, and rub through tammy.

Serve this sauce at the same time as the saddle, which set on a long dish.

1793 — Selle de Chevreuil à la Baden-Baden

The saddle should be marinaded and well dried before being set to cook.

Poële it on the vegetables of the marinade.

When it is cooked, put it on a long dish, and, at either end of it, set a garnish of stewed pears, unsugared, but flavoured with cinnamon and lemon-rind. Pour one-third pint of game stock into the tray in which the joint was cooked; cook for ten minutes; strain; clear of grease, and thicken with arrowroot.

Serve this thickened stock separately, and send some red-currant jelly to the table at the same time.

1794 — Selle de Chevreuil aux Cerises

Keep the saddle for twelve hours in marinade (No. 169) made from verjuice instead of vinegar. Roast it on the spit, basting it with the marinade, and keep it slightly underdone.

At the same time, serve a cherry sauce consisting of equal quantities of poivrade sauce and red-currant jelly, to each pint of which add three oz. of semi-candied cherries, set to soak in hot water thirty minutes beforehand.

N.B.—This saddle need not be marinaded if it be desired plain.

1795 — Selle de Chevreuil à la Cumberland

Roast it like a haunch of venison, without marinading it. Send it to the table with a timbale of French beans, cohered with butter, and serve a Cumberland sauce (No. 134) separately.

1796 — Selle de Chevreuil à la Créole

Marinade it for a few hours only, and roast it on the spit, basting it the while with the marinade.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with bananas tossed in butter.

At the same time serve a Roberts sauce, combined with a third of its bulk of Poivrade sauce, and one oz. of fresh butter per pint.

1797 — Selle de Chevreuil à la Beaujeu

Lard and roast it. Set it on a long dish, and surround it with artichoke-bottoms, garnished with lentil purée, and alternated with chestnuts cooked in a small quantity of consommé and glazed.

Serve a venison sauce separately.

1798 — Selle de Chevreuil au Genièvre

Lard the saddle, and roast it. Swill the baking-tray with a small glassful of burned gin; add one powdered juniper berry and one-sixth pint of double cream. Reduce the cream to half; complete with a few tablespoonfuls of poivrade sauce and a few drops of lemon juice. Serve this sauce with the saddle, and send separately some hot stewed apples, very slightly sugared.

1799 — Selle de Chevreuil Avec Sauces Diverses

Saddle of roebuck may also be served with the following sauces:—Poivrade, Venison, Grand-Veneur, Moscovite, Roberts, &c. The selected accompaniment determines the title of the dish.

1800 — Noisettes et Côtelettes de Chevreuil

The same recipes may be applied to both. Trim them after the manner of lamb noisettes or cutlets. They may be moderately marinaded, but they may also be used fresh. In the latter case, fry them in butter over a somewhat fierce fire, like the lamb noisettes.

If they have been marinaded, it is better to toss them very quickly in very hot oil, and then to dry them before dishing them.

It is in the dishing only that the noisettes and the cutlets differ; for, whereas the latter are always dished in a crown, one overlapping the other, or each separated from the rest by croûtons of bread-crumb fried in butter, the noisettes are always dished in a circle on small, oval croûtons fried in butter, or on tartlet crusts containing some kind of garnish.

1801 — Côtelettes de Chevreuil Conti

Sauté the cutlets in very hot oil; dry them; dish them in a crown, and separate them by similarly-shaped collops of salted tongue.

Swill the saucepan with a little white wine; add this liquor to a Poivrade sauce, and coat the cutlets with it.

Serve a light, buttered purée of lentils at the same time.

1802 — Côtelettes de Chevreuil Diane

Spread an even layer, one-third inch thick, of mousseline game forcemeat on a tray. Poach this forcemeat in a steamer or in a very moderate oven, and cut it into triangles equal in size to the cutlets.

Toss the latter as already explained; dish them in a crown, and separate them by croûtons of forcemeat already prepared.

Coat the whole with poivrade sauce, thinned by means of a little beaten cream, and garnished with crescents of truffle and hard-boiled white of egg, and serve a purée of chestnuts at the same time.

1803 — Noisettes de Chevreuil au Genièvre

Cook the noisettes in smoking oil. Dry them, dish them, and coat them with the same sauce as that given under “Selle au Genièvre” (No. 1798).

Serve some stewed apples at the same time.

1804 — Noisettes de Chevreuil Romanoff

Cook the noisettes; set them on stuffed sections of cucumber, prepared after No. 2124a, and place a slice of truffle on each noisette. Coat with a Poivrade sauce with cream, and serve a mushroom purée separately.

1805 — Noisettes de Chevreuil Valencia

Cook the noisettes, and dish them in a circle, each on a round croûton of brioche fried in butter, and coat lightly with bigarrade sauce.

Serve a sauceboat of bigarrade sauce and an orange salad at the same time.

1806 — Noisettes de Chevreuil Villeneuve

Carefully clear the meat of the roebuck of all tendons, and chop it up with a knife, combining with it the while the third of its weight of fresh butter, as much bread-crumb, soaked in milk, and pressed, and one-third pint of fresh cream per lb. of meat. Season, divide into portions weighing two oz., mould to a nice round shape, wrap in pig’s caul, cook quickly at the last moment, and dish in the form of a crown.

Coat with Chasseur sauce, and send a timbale of celery purée separately.

1807 — Noisettes de Chevreuil Walkyrie

Sauté the noisettes in the usual way, and dish them in the form of a crown, each on a small quoit of “Pommes Berny” (No. 2184). On each noisette lay a fine, grilled mushroom, garnished with a rosette of Soubise purée, made by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe. Pour a little venison sauce over the dish, and send a sauceboat of it separately.

N.B.—Roebuck noisettes and cutlets are still served with purées of chestnuts or celery, with truffles, cèpes, mushrooms, &c.

The sauces best suited to them are Poivrade sauce and its derivatives, such as Venison sauce, Grand-Veneur sauce, Romaine sauce, &c., also Roberts sauce Escoffier.

1808 — Civet de Chevreuil

For “Civet de Chevreuil” the shoulders, the neck, and the breast are used, and these pieces are cut up and set to marinade six hours beforehand with the aromatics and the same red wine as that with which the civet will be moistened.

This civet, which should be classed among dishes for the home, is usually served in the form of a stew; for, inasmuch as the final thickening with blood is lacking, it can only be an imitation of the civet. When, therefore, hare’s blood is available, it should always be used in finishing this dish exactly after the manner of No. 1821—that is to say, the preparation should be given the characteristic stamp of civet by means of a final thickening with blood.

1809 — Boar and Young Boar (Sanglier et Marcassin)

When the wild boar is over two years of age, it is no more fit to be served as food. Between one and two years it should be used with caution, and the various roebuck recipes may then be applied to it. But only the young boar less than twelve months old should be prepared in decent kitchens.

The hams of a young boar, salted and smoked, supply a very passable relevé, which allows of varying the ordinary menu. They are treated exactly like pork hams.

The saddle and the cushions may be prepared after the recipes given for saddle of roebuck, and the same holds good with the cutlets and the noisettes.

Finally, the saddle may be served cold, in a daube, when it is prepared after No. 1173.

As the various parts of the young boar are covered with fat, it is understood that they are not larded, nor do they need it.

1810 — Hare and Leveret (Lièvre et Levraut)

As a result of one of those freaks of taste, of which I have already pointed out some few examples, hare is not nearly so highly esteemed as it deserves in England; and the fact seems all the more strange when one remembers that in many of her counties excellent specimens of the species are to be found.

Whatever be the purpose for which it is required, always select a young hare, five or six lbs. in weight. The age may be ascertained as follows:—Grasp one ear close to its extremity with both hands, and pull in opposite directions; if the ear tear, the beast is young; if it resist the strain, the hare is old, and should be set aside for soups and the preparation of fumets and forcemeats.

1811 — Lièvre Farci à la Perigourdine

Take care to collect all the blood when emptying the hare; break the bones of the legs, that they may be easily trussed; clear the legs and the fillets of all tendons, and lard them. Chop up the liver, the lungs, the heart, and four fowls’ livers, together with five oz. of fat bacon.

Add to this mincemeat five oz. of soaked and pressed bread-crumbs, the blood, two oz. of chopped onion, cooked in butter and cold; a pinch of chopped parsley, a piece of crushed garlic the size of a pea, and three oz. of raw truffle parings. Mix the whole up well; fill the hare with this stuffing; sew up the skin of the belly; truss the animal, and braise it in white wine for about two and one-half hours, basting it often the while. Glaze at the last moment. Serve the hare on a long dish.

Add two-thirds pint of half-glaze game sauce to the braising-liquor; reduce; clear of grease; strain, and add three oz. of chopped truffles to this sauce.

Pour a little sauce over the dish on which the hare has been set, and serve what remains of the sauce separately.

1812 — Râble de Lièvre

The French term “râble” means the whole of the back of the hare, from the root of the neck to the tail, with the ribs cut very short.

Often, however, that piece which corresponds with the saddle in butchers’ meat alone is taken, i.e., the piece reaching from the croup to the floating ribs. Whatever be the particular cut, the piece should be well cleared of all tendons, and finely larded before being set to marinade; and this last operation may even be dispensed with when the “râble” is derived from a young hare.

Marinading would only become necessary if the piece had to be kept some considerable time.

1813 — Râble de Lièvre à l’Allemande

Set the râble well dried on the vegetables of the marinade, which should be laid on the bottom of a long, narrow dish. When it is nearly cooked, remove the vegetables, pour one-quarter pint of cream into the dish, and complete the cooking of the râble, basting it the while with that cream.

Finish at the last minute with a few drops of lemon juice.

Dish the râble, and surround it with the cream stock, strained through a fine strainer.

1814 — Râble de Lièvre au Genièvre

Roast it, as above, on the vegetables of the marinade.

Swill the dish with a small glassful of gin and two or three tablespoonfuls of marinade, and reduce to half. Add one-sixth pint of cream, two tablespoonfuls of poivrade sauce, and four powdered juniper berries.

Strain and serve this sauce separately at the same time as the râble.

1815 — Cuisses de Lièvre

Use the legs of young hares only; those of old animals may be used for the “civet” and forcemeat alone. After having cleared them of tendons and larded them with very thin strips of bacon, treat them like the râble.

1816 — Filets de Levraut à la Dampierre

Take five leverets’ fillets; contise them with slices of truffle, after the manner directed for “Suprêmes de Volaille à la Chevalière” (No. 1458); shape them like crescents, and set them on a buttered dish.

Lard the minion fillets with a rosette consisting of strips of salted tongue, and set them also on a buttered dish.

With what remains of the meat of the leverets, prepare a mousseline forcemeat, and add thereto some truffle essence and some chopped truffles.

Dish this forcemeat, shaping it like a truncated cone two and one-half inches high, the radius of which should be the length of a leveret’s fillet.

Set this forcemeat to poach in the front of the oven.

Sprinkle the fillets and the minion fillets with a little brandy and melted butter; cover them, and poach them likewise in the front of the oven. This done, arrange them radially on the cone of forcemeat, alternating the fillets and the minion fillets. Place a fine, glazed truffle in the middle of the rosette, and surround the base with mushrooms, separated by chestnuts cooked in consommé and glazed, and small onions cooked in butter.

Serve a poivrade sauce at the same time, combined with the fillets’ cooking-liquor.

1817 — Filets de Levraut à la Mornay — (Recipe of the Frères Provençaux)

Trim two leverets’ fillets, and cut them into collops, one inch in diameter and one-third inch thick. Prepare (1) the same number of bread-crumb croûtons as there are collops, and make them of the same size as the latter, though half as thick; (2) the same number of thick slices of truffle, cooked at the last minute in a little Madeira.

Toss the collops of fillet quickly in clarified butter; colour the croûtons in butter at the same time, and mix the latter with the collops and the truffles in a saucepan.

Swill the sautépan with the Madeira in which the truffles have cooked; add a little succulent pale glaze; reduce sufficiently; strain the sauce through a sieve; finish it liberally with butter; add it to the sautéd collops, and serve the latter in a very hot timbale.

N.B.—This recipe was given by the Comte de Mornay himself to the proprietors of the famous Parisian restaurant, and for a long while the dish was one of the specialities of a house no longer extant.

1818 — Filets de Levraut à la Vendome

After having contised the leveret’s fillets, roll them round a buttered tin mould, and fasten them with a string, that they may form rings.

Set to poach. Meanwhile, spread on a buttered tray a layer one-half inch thick of game forcemeat; poach the latter; stamp it out by means of an even cutter into roundels of the same size as the rings, and set one of these on each of the forcemeat roundels, fixing it by means of a little raw forcemeat.

Cut the minion fillets into collops, and quickly toss them in butter with an equal quantity of mushrooms and five oz. of raw, sliced truffles.

Swill the saucepan with a little brandy and the poaching-liquor of the fillet-rings; add a little poivrade sauce; finish this sauce with butter, and plunge therein the collops of fillet, the mushrooms, and the truffles.

Set the rings in a circle on a dish, and fill them with this garnish. Serve separately a sauceboat of poivrade sauce and a timbale of chestnut purée.

1819 — Mousses et Mousselines de Lièvre

Proceed exactly as for all other mousses and mousselines, except, of course, in regard to the basic ingredient, which in this case is the meat of a hare.

1820 — Soufflé de Lièvre

With one lb. of the meat of a hare, prepare a light mousseline forcemeat; add thereto the whites of two eggs, whisked to a stiff froth; poach the mousseline in a soufflé saucepan.

Cut the hare’s minion fillets into collops, and toss them in butter at the last moment.

Cook the soufflé in a moderate oven; coat the top lightly with half-glaze sauce flavoured with hare fumet, and surround it with the minion-fillet collops, alternated with slices of truffles.

The minion-fillet collops and the slices of truffles may be added to the sauce, and this garnish is served separately in another timbale.

1821 — Civet de Lièvre

Skin and clean the hare, taking care to collect all the blood in so doing. Put the liver aside, after having carefully freed it from the gall-bladder, as also from those portions touching the latter.

Cut up the hare, and put the pieces in a basin with a few tablespoonfuls of brandy and an equal quantity of olive oil, salt, pepper, and an onion cut into thin roundels. Cover and leave to marinade for a few hours in the very red wine used for the moistening. Fry one-half lb. of lean bacon, cut into large dice, in butter, and drain it as soon as it is brown. In the same butter brown two fair-sized, quartered onions; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and cook this roux gently until it acquires a golden tinge. Put the pieces of hare into this roux, after having well dried them, and stiffen them.

Moisten with the wine used for the marinade. Add a large faggot, in which place a garlic clove; cover, and leave to cook gently on the side of the stove.

A few minutes before serving, thicken the civet with the reserved blood, which should be gradually heated, and mix therewith a few tablespoonfuls of sauce. Then transfer the pieces of hare, one by one, to another saucepan with the fried pieces of bacon, twenty small, glazed onions, and twenty cooked mushrooms.

Strain the sauce over the whole through a strainer.

Dish in a warm timbale, and surround with heart-shaped croûtons fried in butter at the last moment.

Cold Preparations of Hare

1822 — Lièvre en Daube

Take a fresh hare, and bone it from the back without emptying it, that the skin of the belly may be untouched.

Detach the shoulders and the legs; do not touch the head; season with salt and pepper; sprinkle with a few drops of brandy, and leave to marinade. With the hare’s liver, some fat bacon, and some truffle parings, prepare a gratin forcemeat. Prepare another forcemeat with the meat of the shoulders and the legs, an equal weight of fat bacon, one egg, a pinch of wild thyme, salt, pepper, spices, and the brandy of the marinade. Rub this forcemeat through a sieve, and add to it the gratin forcemeat, one-half lb. of fat bacon, and five oz. of truffles cut into dice.

Fill the boned hare with this preparation; sew it up, and tie the head to the back in such wise as to give the piece the appearance of the animal at rest.

Wrap it in slices of bacon, and set it in a terrine lined with the latter; sprinkle with a glassful of brandy, and place in the oven for thirty minutes with lid off.

Then pour into the terrine a fumet prepared with red wine from the hare’s bones; cover, and then cook in the oven gently for three hours.

Leave to half-cool; drain away the cooking-liquor, and carefully remove the slices of bacon. Strain the cooking-liquor through muslin; return it to the terrine, and fill up the latter with savoury jelly.

Keep in the cool for two hours before serving.

1823 — Pain de Lièvre

This “Pain” is prepared according to No. 1689, and it may be served in “Belle-vue,” after the manner described for cold pieces prepared in this way.

1824 — Pâté de Lièvre

Clear the fillets, the minion fillets, and the legs of all tendons; moderately lard them; season them; set them in a dish with an equal quantity of truffles and fat bacon strips; sprinkle with some brandy, and leave to marinade for one hour. With what remains of the meat, some fillets of veal and pork, in the proportion of six oz. per lb. of hare; fresh, fat bacon in the proportion of one and one-half lbs. per lb. of hare; and spiced salt, prepare a forcemeat, and finish it with one egg and three tablespoonfuls of brandy per lb. of forcemeat.

Rub through tammy, and add a portion of the hare’s blood.

Line a round or oval buttered mould with raised-pie paste, and completely cover the paste with slices of bacon. Then coat inside with forcemeat, and fill up the mould with alternate layers of forcemeat, hares’ fillets, truffle, and fat bacon strips.

Gild; bake in a moderate oven, and, when the pie is almost cold, pour some jelly flavoured with hare fumet into it.

1825 — Terrine de Lièvre

A “Terrine” or Patty is only a pie without a crust, and it allows of the same forcemeat and of the same garnish of bacon strips as the latter. The terrine should first be lined with slices of bacon, whereupon it is garnished like the pie with alternate layers of forcemeat, bacon strips, hares’ fillets, and truffles.

Cover with a slice of bacon; sprinkle the centre of the latter with a little powdered thyme and bay, and a little spice. Put the lid on the terrine, place it in a saucepan containing a little water, and set it to cook in the oven.

The time allowed for cooking is naturally subject to the size of the terrine. It is known to be quite cooked when the grease which rises to the surface is quite clear.

As long as this grease is turbid, raw juices are still issuing from the forcemeat and the garnish inside. Another method of telling is by the insertion of a needle. If the latter withdraws evenly heated throughout its length, the terrine is cooked.

If the patty is to be served immediately, add some aspic to it when it is just tepid, and set it to cool under slight pressure. When quite cold, clear it of grease; trim its surface, and cut it up in the utensil.

If it is to be served whole and presented, set it to cool under greater pressure; turn it out, and trim it all round. This done, cause a layer of jelly to set on the bottom of the terrine; return the trimmed patty to the latter, and surround it with melted aspic jelly.

When about to serve, turn it out after the manner of an aspic; set it on a long dish, and border the latter with jelly croûtons.

If it have to be kept some time, proceed as above, but use lard instead of aspic, and keep it well covered and in the cool.

1826 — Young Wild Rabbit (Lapereaux)

Use the wild rather than the tame young rabbit, and test its age after the manner described in regard to the hare, and also by means of a little lentil-shaped bone, which is to be found in the region of the patella.

As the wild rabbit ages, this bone shrinks and finally combines with the other bones of the articulation.

When the wild rabbit is old, it is tough, and can only be used for stock or forcemeats.

All the recipes given for “Poulet Sauté,” and those given for hare, may be applied to wild rabbit; the reader is, therefore, begged to refer to these.

1827 — Feathered Game

Feathered game comprises all esculent birds that live in freedom.

The number of species involved, therefore, is considerable, but from the culinary standpoint they may be grouped into ten principal classes, which are:—

1. The various pheasants, grey and red partridges, the Tetras Californias.

2. The hazel-hen, grouse, prairie fowls, ganga, sand-grouse.

3. The various wild ducks and teals.

4. The woodcocks and snipes.

5. The various plovers, lapwings, sandpipers, water-rails, water-hens.

6. The quails, land-rails, Virginia quails.

7. The various thrushes, Corsican blackbirds.

8. The various larks.

9. The warblers.

10. The ortolans.

The birds of Classes 1 and 4 are better high—that is to say, they should be hung for a few days, before being plucked, in a moderate draught, that they may begin to decompose, and that the particular flavour of their flesh may be accentuated, a process which increases their culinary value. Whatever opinion may be held in regard to the gaminess of these birds, one thing is quite certain—namely, that the meat of a fresh pheasant and that of a high one are two totally different things. When fresh, the meat is flavourless, whereas when it is reasonably high it is tender, full of taste, and of an incomparable flavour.

Formerly, it was the custom to lard the birds of Class 1, especially when they were to be roasted. But this practice should be resolutely discarded, for, if the bird be young, it can only impair the latter’s flavour, and, if it be old, it cannot possibly restore those qualities to it which it has already lost.

The birds belonging to the remaining classes are prepared fresh; or, if it be thought necessary to let them hang for a few days, at least they should not be allowed to get high, more particularly the aquatic ones, because gaminess is, if anything, deleterious to the flavour of their flesh.

1828 — Pheasant (Faisan)

When this bird is young, its legs are grey and the ventral end of the sternum is tender and flexible. But with pheasants, as with partridges, an infallible sign of youth may be discovered at the extremity of the last large feather in the wing. If this feather be pointed, the bird is young; if it be round, the reverse is the case.

1829 — Faisan à la Mode D’Alcantara

This recipe comes from the famous Alcantara convent. History tells us that at the beginning of the Portuguese campaign in 1807 the convent’s library was pillaged by Junot’s soldiers, and its precious manuscripts were used in the making of cartridges.

Now it happened that an officer of the commissariat who was witnessing the event found, among a collection of recipes selected by the monks, the particular one now under our notice, which was applied only to partridges.

It struck him as interesting, and after trying it when he returned to France in the following year, he surrendered it to the Duchess of Abrantès, who noted it in her memoirs.

It represents, perhaps, the only good thing the French derived from that unfortunate campaign, and it would tend to prove that foie gras and truffles, which had been known for so long in Languedoc and Gascony, were also known in Estremadura, where, even at the present day, tolerably good truffles are to be found.

The procedure is as follows:—

Empty the pheasant from the front; bone its breast, and stuff it with fine ducks’ foies gras, mixed with quartered truffles, cooked in port wine.

Marinade the pheasant for three days in port wine, taking care that it be well covered therewith. This done, cook it “en casserole” (the original recipe says on the spit, but the saucepan is more suitable). Reduce the port wine of the marinade; add to it a dozen medium-sized truffles; set the pheasant on these truffles, and heat for a further ten minutes.

1830 — Faisan à l’Angoumoise

Stuff the pheasant with a preparation consisting of two-thirds lb. of very fresh pork fat, rubbed through a sieve; four oz. of raw, peeled, and quartered truffles, and four oz. of fine chestnuts, cooked in consommé.

This preparation, which should be seasoned as for the ordinary truffling (No. 1956), ought to be quite cold when inserted into the pheasant.

Wrap the bird in slices of bacon; roast it gently for three-quarters of an hour, and take care to remove the slices of bacon seven or eight minutes before the cooking is completed, that the outside of the piece may be coloured.

Set on a long dish, and serve a Périgueux sauce at the same time.

1831 — Faisan à la Bohémienne

Season a small foie gras with salt and paprika; stud it with raw quartered truffles, and poach it in Madeira for twenty minutes.

When it is cold, insert it into the pheasant, which should be high. Truss the bird, and cook it in butter in a saucepan or a cocotte for forty-five minutes. When about to serve, remove some of the butter used in cooking; sprinkle the pheasant with a glassful of burnt brandy, and add a few tablespoonfuls of reduced game gravy to the cooking-liquor.

Serve the pheasant in its cooking utensil.

1832 — Faisan en Casserole

Truss the pheasant as for an entrée, and poële it in butter only. This done, swill the saucepan with a few drops of brandy and a tablespoonful of game gravy.

Cover the utensil, and serve the dish burning hot.

1833 — Faisan en Cocotte

Proceed exactly as for pheasant “en casserole,” and, when the cooking is two-thirds done, surround it with a garnish of small onions cooked in butter; small, cooked mushroom-heads and olive-shaped truffles, the latter taking the place of the potatoes, which are one of the garnishing ingredients of fowls “en cocotte.”

1834 — Faisan en Chartreuse

Parboil a fine, round-headed, quartered cabbage, and braise it as directed under No. 2100, adding thereto an old, oven-browned pheasant.

The chartreuse may be made with the pheasant kept whole or cut into pieces, but in any case, roasted or poëled, it should be very tender and only just cooked. The old pheasant put in with the cabbage only serves in imparting its flavour to the latter, but it must not and cannot be used for the chartreuse.

If the chartreuse be made with a cut-up pheasant, proceed as in the case of No. 1778. If whole, line an oval mould chartreuse-fashion; coat the inside with a portion of the braised cabbage, which should be slightly pressed; set the pheasant, breast undermost, in the mould; cover it with what remains of the cabbage, and then turn it out on a dish.

Send a sauceboat of excellent half-glaze, flavoured with pheasant fumet, separately.

1835 — Faisan à la Choucroûte

Prepare the sauerkraut after No. 2097, and bear in mind that when it is specially prepared to accompany a pheasant, it is considerably improved by being braised with foie-gras fat.

Poële a very tender pheasant, and only just cook it. Lay the well-drained sauerkraut on a long dish; set the pheasant upon it, and surround it with a border consisting of rectangles of bacon, cooked in the sauerkraut.

Serve separately the poëling-liquor combined with a little game fumet, strained, and kept somewhat greasy.

1836 — Faisan à la Crème

Cook the pheasant in butter, in a saucepan, with a medium-sized, quartered onion. When the cooking is three-parts done, sprinkle the bird with one-quarter pint of cream (sour if possible), or with ordinary cream, acidulated by means of a few drops of lemon juice.

Finish the cooking, basting the piece the while with cream and serve in the saucepan.

1837 — Faisan Demidoff

Proceed exactly as directed under “Poulet à la Demidoff” (No. 1464).

1838 — Faisan à la Georgienne

Truss the pheasant as for an entrée, and put it into a saucepan with thirty fresh, halved, and well-peeled walnuts; the juice of two lbs. of grapes and of four oranges, pressed on a sieve; a wineglassful of Malmsey wine; a glassful of strong, green tea; one and one-half oz. of butter, and the necessary seasoning.

Poach the pheasant in this preparation for about thirty minutes, and colour it when it is almost cooked.

When about to serve, dish it and surround it with fresh walnuts.

Strain the cooking-liquor through a napkin; add thereto one-third pint of game Espagnole, and reduce to half.

Slightly coat the pheasant and its garnish with the sauce, and serve what remains of the latter separately.

1839 — Faisan Grillé Diable

For this preparation only young pheasants are used; although, provided they be tender, adult pheasants will answer the purpose. The procedure is precisely the same as that described under “Poulet Grillé” (No. 1636).

1840 — Faisan Kotschoubey

Cook the pheasant “en casserole,” and add to it, when it is almost done, two oz. of fine, raw truffle slices, and a little excellent game glaze, clear and well buttered.

Serve the following garnish separately:—Fry in butter four oz. of blanched, fresh breast of bacon, cut into dice. When the pieces are properly frizzled, add to them one lb. of freshly-cooked, well-drained, uncooled, and roughly-chopped Brussels sprouts. Add two oz. of fresh butter, a little pepper and grated nutmeg, and stew gently for one-half hour, that the garnish may just be ready in time for dishing.

1841 — Faisan à la Normande

Colour the pheasant in butter.

Meanwhile quarter, peel, mince, and slightly toss in butter six medium-sized apples.

Garnish the bottom of a terrine with a layer of these apples; set the browned pheasant thereon; surround it with what remains of the apples; sprinkle it with a few tablespoonfuls of fresh cream; cover the terrine, and cook in the oven for from twenty to twenty-eight minutes.

Serve the preparation in the terrine.

1842 — Faisan à la Périgueux

Stuff the pheasant with truffles, proceeding as for ordinary truffling (No. 1956). Poële it in Madeira; dish, and surround it with a border of quenelles consisting of truffled game forcemeat, moulded by means of a coffeespoon, and poached at the last moment.

Serve separately a Périgueux sauce combined with the reduced poëling-liquor, cleared of all grease.

1843 — Faisan à la Régence

Poële the pheasant, and dish it on a low croûton, carved from a sandwich-loaf and fried in butter.

Surround it with small, decorated, round game quenelles; large, grooved, cooked mushrooms; and cocks’ kidneys; all three arranged alternately.

Serve separately a Salmis sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, and combined with the strained and reduced poëling-liquor, cleared of all grease.

1844 — Faisan à la Sainte-Alliance

Bone two woodcocks, and put their livers and intestines aside.

Chop up their meat, together with a quarter of its weight of poached and cooled beef-marrow, and as much fresh, fat bacon; salt, pepper, and herbs. Add to this hash six oz. of raw, peeled, and quartered truffles, slightly cooked in butter.

Stuff the pheasant with this preparation; truss it; wrap it in slices of bacon, and keep it in the cool for twenty-four hours, that the aroma of the truffles may be concentrated.

Roast the pheasant on the spit, or, if in the oven, set it on a somewhat high stand in a baking-pan. Cut a large croûton from a sandwich-loaf, and fry it in clarified butter.

Pound the woodcocks’ livers and intestines with an equal weight of grated fresh fat bacon, the well-washed fillets of an anchovy, one oz. of butter, and one-half oz. of raw truffle. When this forcemeat is very smooth and all its ingredients thoroughly mixed, spread it over the fried croûtons.

When the pheasant is two-thirds cooked, set this coated croûton under the bird in such wise as to allow the juices escaping from the latter to drop upon the croûton. Complete the cooking, and dish the pheasant on the croûton. Surround with slices of bitter orange, and send the gravy separately.

When serving, accompany each piece of pheasant with a slice of orange and a small slice of the coated croûton.

1845 — Faisan Souvaroff

Cook six fair-sized truffles for five minutes in a glassful of Madeira and an equal quantity of light meat glaze. Withdraw the truffles and put them in the terrine in which the pheasant will complete its cooking.

Cut one-half lb. of foie gras into large dice; stiffen these in the truffles’ cooking-liquor, and stuff the pheasant therewith. Truss the latter; wrap it in slices of bacon, and two-thirds poële it.

This done, put it into the terrine containing the truffles; add the poëling-liquor, a small glassful of Madeira, and the same quantity of game gravy; hermetically close the terrine, and continue cooking for about a quarter of an hour.

Serve the preparation as it stands.

1846 — Suprêmes, Côtelettes et Filets de Faisan

Pheasant Suprêmes, Cutlets and Fillets, allow of the same garnishes as those of fowl. But, whereas in the case of the latter, they are raised raw, and then poached, my advice in regard to pheasant is, that it should be previously roasted or poëled (keeping it just underdone) and that the suprêmes be only raised at the last moment.

By this means, a much better result is obtained than by the poaching of raw fillets; which, once cooked, are generally dry if they have to wait but a few seconds.

I also advise, when the garnish consists only of foie-gras collops and truffles (as in the case of the Rossini garnish), the sending separately of a small timbale of noodles with cream.

1847 — Salmis de Faisan

Salmis is perhaps the most delicate and most perfect of the game preparations bequeathed to us by old-fashioned cookery. If it be less highly esteemed nowadays, it is owing to the fact that this recipe has been literally spoiled by the haphazard fashion in which it has been applied right and left to game already cooked, and cooked again for the purpose.

But the Salmis given above may always be included in any menu, however sumptuous. It is applied more particularly to game of the 1st and 2nd classes, which should be somewhat high when treated.

The recipe I give may be applied to all the birds in the two classes referred to.

Roast the pheasant, keeping it moderately underdone. Quickly cut it into eight pieces, thus: two legs, two wings (separated from the pinions), and the breast cut into four lengthwise. Skin the pieces; trim them neatly, and keep them at a temperate heat in a covered vegetable-pan, with a few drops of burnt brandy and a little clear melted meat glaze.

Pound the carcass and the trimmings, and add to them half a bottleful of red wine (almost entirely reduced), three chopped shallots and a few mignonette pepper. Add one-quarter pint of good game Espagnole sauce; cook for ten minutes; rub through a sieve, pressing well the while, and then strain through a strainer.

Reduce this sauce to about one-third, and despumate it; strain it once more through a close strainer; add a small quantity of butter, and pour it over the pieces of pheasant, to which add a fine, sliced truffle and six grooved mushroom-heads.

I advise the discarding of the old method of dishing upon a cushion of bread fried in butter, as also of the triangular croûtons fried in butter and coated with gratin forcemeat, which usually accompanied the Salmis.

A speedy preparation and a simple method of dishing, which facilitate the service and allow of the Salmis being eaten hot, are the only necessary conditions. Moreover, the goodness of the preparation is such as to be independent of a fantastic method of dishing.

1848 — Sauté de Faisan

Unless it be prepared with the greatest care, sautéd pheasant is always dry. I therefore do not recommend it; but, should it be necessary to make a dish of it, care should be observed in selecting a young, plump bird. It should be cut up like a fowl, cooked in butter on a moderate fire and kept somewhat underdone.

Dish it after the manner of a “poulet sauté” and cover it. Swill the sautépan and prepare a sauce after the recipe in common use.

This sauce must always be short, and it should be poured over the pheasant just before serving it.

1849 — Pâté Chaud de Faisan

The preparation of hot, raised pheasant pies is the same as usual; the ingredients alone changing. The reader will, therefore, kindly refer to “Pâté chaud de Canard” (No. 1752), and duly note the following modifications:—

(1) Use a gratin forcemeat (No. 202) prepared from game livers and meat.

(2) Roast the pheasant, keeping it underdone, and mix the pieces of cooked mushroom with the sliced truffles.

1850 — Mousses et Mousselines de Faisan

As already stated in various parts of this work, the constituents and their quantities are the same for mousses and mousselines, and but for the basic ingredient, which is pheasant in this case, the procedure does not differ from that already described.

The base of the sauces served with these mousses and mousselines is a fumet made from the carcasses and remains.

1851 — Soufflé de Faisan

Prepare a very light, mousseline forcemeat of pheasant.

Set in a buttered soufflé saucepan, and cook in a moderate oven.

Send a fine, half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game essence, at the same time.

Cold Pheasant

1852 — Faisan à la Bohémienne

Proceed as for “Faisan à la Bohémienne” hot (No. 1831). Cook it in an earthenware terrine, and add thereto, at the same time as the prescribed brandy, enough succulent, savoury jelly to fill up the terrine.

Leave to cool for a day or two, and, when about to serve, remove the grease that has settled on the surface, by means of a spoon. Remove the last vestiges of grease by repeated scaldings; carefully wipe the terrine, and serve it incrusted in a block of ice.

1853 — Chaud-Froid de Faisan

Proceed exactly as for “Chaud-froid de Volaille” (No. 1689), and use a brown chaud-froid sauce, flavoured with pheasant fumet.

In regard to the decoration, dishing, &c., follow the recipe already referred to.

1854 — Chaud-Froid de Faisan à la Buloz

Poële a pheasant, keeping it underdone; raise its suprêmes, and cut these into thin collops.

With a fumet prepared from the carcass and the poëling-liquor, prepare a brown chaud-froid sauce. Coat the collops with this sauce, and also coat ten cooked and grooved mushrooms with a white chaud-froid sauce.

Set the collops of pheasant and the chaud-froid-coated truffles inside, alternating the two in so doing; fill up the mould with the same jelly, and let it set on ice. When about to serve, turn out after the manner of an aspic, on a low cushion of rice or semolina, lying on a round dish.

Border with neatly-cut croûtons of very clear aspic.

1855 — Faisan à la Croix de Berny

Roast the pheasant and keep it underdone. When it is quite cold, raise its fillets and leave the legs and the wings attached to the carcass.

By means of scissors, completely bone the carcass; garnish its inside with a truffled foie-gras Parfait, and cover it with a thin coat of foie-gras Mousse.

Replace the fillets upon this Mousse, after having sliced them, and fill any gaps that may exist between the slices with some of the same Mousse: thus reconstructing the bird.

Let the Mousse set thoroughly, and glaze with aspic jelly.

Meanwhile, coat eight boned, stuffed, poached and cold larks with brown chaud-froid sauce. Decorate them with pieces of truffle and salted tongue, and glaze them with aspic jelly.

Dish the pheasant on a low cushion; surround it with the larks, and garnish the gaps between the latter with chopped and very clear aspic.

1856 — Faisan en Daube

Proceed as for “Terrine de Poularde à la gelée” (No. 1701), making due allowance, in the cooking, for the difference between the sizes of the two birds.

1857 — Côtelettes de Faisan

Proceed as for “Côtelettes froides de Volaille.”

1858 — Galantine de Faisan

See “Galantine de Volaille” (No. 1708).

1859 — Mousse de Faisan

Prepare the Mousse according to the usual procedure, and mould it after the manner of “Mousse de Volaille” (No. 1711).

1860 — Pain de Faisan en Belle-Vue

The procedure follows that of No. 1709, but for the difference in the basic ingredient, which in this case is pheasant.

1861 — Suprêmes de Faisan Châtelaine

Raise the suprêmes and prepare them exactly like the suprêmes of fowl in “Chaud-froid Félix Faure” (No. 1691). Poach them; cool them, and cut them into medallions as explained.

Cover half of these medallions with chicken Mousse, and the other half with pheasant Mousse. Keep on ice for some time that the Mousse may set. This done, coat the first lot with brown chaud-froid sauce and the second lot with white chaud-froid sauce. Deck each medallion with small pieces of truffle. Set them in a deep, square dish (alternating the two colours), and cover with very clear, succulent aspic jelly. Leave to set and serve on a block of ice.

1862 — Suprêmes de Faisan Gastronome

Poële the pheasant in Madeira and let it cool. Raise the fillets; cut them into thin, regular slices; coat them with brown chaud-froid sauce, and decorate according to fancy. With the trimmings and the meat of the legs, prepare a pheasant Mousse after the manner described under No. 1711, and mould it in a Parfait mould which should have the depth of the chaud-froid-coated slices.

When this Mousse has set, turn it out on a dish and place the slices all round, standing them upright and letting them lean one against the other.

Surround with a crown of fine, fair-sized, peeled truffles, cooked in Champagne, and set one of them on the top of the Mousse, fixing it there by means of a hatelet.

Border the dish with fine croûtons of aspic.

1863 — Terrine de Faisan

Prepare it after the manner of the “Terrine de Lièvre” (No. 1825), and take care to make due allowance, in the cooking, for the difference, in the matter of tenderness, between the two meats. But the explanations already given on this subject ought to suffice for ascertaining whether or not the patty have cooked sufficiently.

Partridge (Perdrix et Perdreaux)

Three kinds of partridges are used in Cookery:—the Grey Partridge, which is commonest in flat country, and which is also the most highly esteemed; the Red Partridge, which is to be found in hilly and wooded country; and the Bartavelle (perdix vertevella), which is a somewhat larger species than the two former. To these three kinds may be added the American Colin (Ortix Virginianus), an excellent bird sometimes seen in English markets.

All the recipes given for pheasants may be applied to partridge, and below, I shall only give those which are proper to the latter.

1864 — Perdreau à la Bourguignonne

Truss the partridge as for an entrée; three-parts poële it, and place it in a terrine with six small glazed onions and as many small, cooked mushroom heads. Swill the saucepan with a glassful of red wine; reduce it two-thirds, and add a tablespoonful of game half-glaze. Strain; clear of grease; pour this sauce over the partridge, and complete the latter’s cooking for seven or eight minutes.

1865 — Perdreau en Demi-Deuil

Bone the breast and fill the partridge with truffled partridge forcemeat, prepared with panada or butter. Between the skin and the fillets, slip a few slices of very black truffle; truss as for an entrée; wrap the piece in muslin, and poach it for thirty minutes in a game fumet.

When about to serve, remove the muslin; take the string off, and dish the partridge. Reduce the fumet in which the partridge has poached; strain it; add thereto a liqueur-glassful of burnt liqueur-brandy, and send this reduced fumet separately.

1866 — Perdreau en Estouffade

Brown the partridge in the oven and set in a terrine just large enough to hold it, with a tablespoonful of Matignon (No. 227) and one crushed juniper berry, on top and beneath.

Add one-half oz. of butter, a liqueur-glassful of burnt brandy, and twice that amount of game fumet. Close the terrine; seal down the lid with a strip of paste; bake in a hot oven for twenty-five minutes and serve the dish as it stands.

1867 — Perdreau à la Lautrec

Select a young partridge; open its back; slightly flatten it with a butcher’s beater; pierce it through with a skewer; season it with salt, pepper and melted butter, and gently grill.

At the same time grill six small mushroom-heads.

Dish the partridge; on either side of it set the mushrooms, each of which should be garnished with a coffeespoonful of Maître-d’hôtel butter; surround the mushrooms with a thread of melted meat glaze and sprinkle the partridge with a few drops of lemon juice.

1868 — Perdreau Lady Clifford

Cook the partridge in butter in a saucepan. When it is three-parts done, surround it with two oz. of fine slices of raw truffle; add a liqueur-glassful of burnt brandy and one tablespoonful of clear melted meat glaze.

Serve a Soubise sauce at the same time and separately.

1869 — Perdreau aux Choux

Prepare a garnish of braised cabbages as explained under No. 2100, and add thereto an old partridge, browned in the oven or on the spit. Meanwhile, roast or poële a very tender young partridge and keep it underdone.

Dish the cabbages, which should be well drained; set the young partridge upon them, and surround with small rectangles of very lean bacon, cooked with the cabbages, and a thread of half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game fumet.

N.B.—This dish may be given a more decorative appearance by means of a sort of Chartreuse, which is prepared as follows:—Line a large bowl or a buttered, round-bottomed timbale with roundels of sausages; roundels of carrots arranged in superposed rows, separated by a line of French beans or peas; and small rectangles of bacon, laid side by side.

Line the inside of the timbale with a thick layer of cabbages, and put the young partridge, breast undermost, in the middle (the partridge may also be carved up). Cover the cabbages and press the latter with a fork; turn the timbale out on a dish and tilt the latter that all the grease may fall before withdrawing the timbale, which answers the purpose of a mould.

Surround with a thread of half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game fumet.

1870 — Crépinettes de Perdreaux

After substituting the meat of a young partridge, cleared of all tendons, for the veal sweetbreads, and fresh bacon for calf’s udder, proceed exactly as directed (as regards quantities and other particulars) under “Crépinettes de ris de Veau” (No. 1222), taking care to add three oz. of chopped truffles per lb. of the forcemeat.

Divide up the forcemeat into portions one and one-half oz. to two oz. in weight; wrap them in pig’s caul; roll them first in melted butter and then in bread-crumbs, and grill them gently.

The usual accompaniment to these crépinettes is a light chestnut or lentil purée.

1871 — Epigrammes de Perdreau

Raise the young partridge’s fillets, leaving the wing-bone attached to the carcass, and put them aside. From the minion fillets and the meat of the legs, prepare a mousseline forcemeat; mould the latter in very small buttered cutlet moulds, and set to poach.

Roll the fillets in melted butter and bread-crumbs, and grill them gently. Dip the cutlets in beaten egg; roll them in finely-chopped truffles; press upon the latter with the flat of a knife, that they may combine with the egg; adjust the shape of the cutlets, and toss them in butter.

Dish in the form of a circle, alternating the fillets and the cutlets; pour in their midst a cullis prepared from the partridge’s carcasses, and serve a chestnut purée separately.

1872 — Timbale de Perdreau Diane

Line a liberally-buttered, shallow mould with crescents of truffle arranged in superposed rows, and then completely cover the bottom and sides of the mould with a layer, two-thirds in. thick, of raw partridge forcemeat.

Place the mould in the front of the oven that the forcemeat may be poached; and then spread another layer of gratin forcemeat of game.

Fill the utensil with a garnish of small quenelles consisting of truffled partridge forcemeat, mushrooms and slices of truffles, cohered with a reduced Madeira sauce. Cover the garnish with a small coat of forcemeat, and poach in the bain-marie for from thirty to thirty-five minutes.

When about to serve, turn out on a dish, and deck the timbale with a crown of partridges’ suprêmes, raised from birds fresh from the spit or the oven. Surround the base of the timbale with a thread of Diane sauce, and send a sauceboat of the latter separately.

1873 — Perdreaux Froids

The various recipes given for cold pheasant also suit cold partridge; it is only necessary therefore to replace the word “pheasant” by “partridge” in the formulæ referred to.

1874 — Woodcock and Snipe (Bécasse et Bécassines)

If grouse, which can only be thoroughly appreciated in its native country, were extinct, woodcock would be the leading feathered game. But the latter have this advantage over the former, namely: that their fumet is not so fugitive, and that they may be kept much longer. Woodcock does not yield its full quality unless it be moderately high.

1875 — Bécasse de Carême

Sprinkle the woodcock with a few drops of oil, and roast it, keeping it underdone. As soon as it is cooked, divide it into two lengthwise, and cut each half of the breast into two collops. Mix half a coffeespoonful of French mustard in a small vegetable-pan, with a few drops of lemon juice. Roll the pieces of woodcock in this mustard, and keep them hot.

Chop up the carcass and the intestines; sprinkle with a glassful of burnt liqueur brandy; reduce; add a tablespoonful of game fumet, and cook for five minutes.

Strain through a strainer, pressing on the pieces of woodcock in so doing, and rock the saucepan, that the pieces may be coated with the cullis. Dish in a hot timbale, and, upon the pieces, set the woodcock’s head.

N.B.—Bécasse à la fine Champagne is prepared in the same way, but without mustard. Cut it into six pieces: wings, legs and two halves of the breast, and put these pieces into a round cocotte. Swill the saucepan with burnt liqueur brandy; add the chopped intestines, mixed with the juices of the pressed carcass; add a tablespoonful of fumet, a little lemon juice, and a little cayenne, and pour this cullis (heated but not boiled) over the pieces.

Bécasse à la Riche is prepared in the same way, but:—(1) the pieces are dished on a croûton of fried bread, coated with gratin forcemeat of game; (2) the sauce is thickened with a little foie-gras purée and one oz. of butter, and then strained over the pieces through a coarse strainer, during which process the operator should press with a spoon or a whisk.

1876 — Bécasse à la Favart

Proceed as for “Caneton Rouennais Soufflé” (No. 1764), and remember to add the woodcock’s intestines to the forcemeat.

When the carcass is garnished, set the sliced suprêmes on the forcemeat, with a row of sliced truffles in the middle. The forcemeat should poach for about twenty minutes.

Serve at the same time a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with woodcock fumet.

1877 — Salmis de Bécasse

Under the article “Pheasant,” I gave the generic recipe for Salmis, which may be applied to all feathered game. In regard to the Woodcock Salmis, the operator should remember to add the bird’s intestines to the sauce, and to keep the meat rather under- than overdone.

1878 — Bécasse Souvaroff

Proceed exactly as for “Faisan à la Souvaroff” (No. 1845), after making due allowance for the size of the bird in regard to the quantity of truffles and foie gras.

1879 — Mousses et Mousselines de Bécasse

Proceed as indicated in No. 1850.

1880 — Timbale de Bécasse Metternich

Prepare a somewhat shallow, decorated timbale crust.

Roast the woodcocks and keep them underdone.

Raise the suprêmes and put them in the timbale, separating them by collops of fresh foie gras, sautéd at the last moment.

Pound the remains of the woodcocks, including their carcasses; thin the purée with truffle essence; rub it through a sieve, pressing heavily the while, and then rub it through tammy.

Heat the cullis thus obtained, without letting it boil; finish it with a little lemon juice, liqueur-brandy and butter, and pour it into the timbale over the pieces of woodcock and the foie gras collops.

Dish the timbale on a folded napkin, lying on a round dish.

1881 — Timbale de Bécasse Nesselrode

Poële the woodcocks and keep them underdone.

As soon as they are cooked, raise their fillets and put these aside.

Bone the remains, and pound the meat thus obtained, together with a quarter of its weight of raw foie gras.

Rub through a sieve, and add an equal weight of game forcemeat, prepared with panada and butter. Add the chopped carcasses and a glassful of liqueur brandy to the poëling-liquor; cook for a few minutes; strain, and in this stock poach five oz. of olive-shaped truffles (for an ordinary timbale).

Line a buttered Charlotte-mould with short paste; cover its bottom and sides with the prepared forcemeat, and against this forcemeat set the woodcock’s suprêmes, cut into collops. Garnish the centre with the truffles, and cover these with a few tablespoonfuls of Espagnole, reduced with some of the fumet. Close the timbale with a layer of paste, as explained in the various preceding timbale recipes, and bake in a good, moderate oven for about forty-five minutes.

When about to serve, turn out the timbale on a dish; pour into the former some half-glaze sauce combined with what remains of the fumet, and send a sauceboat of the same sauce separately.

1882 — Bécasses et Bécassines Froides

All the recipes given for cold pheasant and partridge may be applied to woodcocks and snipes.

1883 — Quails

Quails should always be chosen plump, and their fat should be white and very firm. Besides the spit, which should always be used in preference to the oven for roasting, they allow of two other methods of cooking: they may be cooked in butter, in a saucepan; or they may be poached in excellent strong and gelatinous veal stock.

This last mode of procedure greatly enhances the quail’s quality and is frequently used.

1884 — Cailles en Casserole

Cook them in butter, in the saucepan in which they will be served.

Swill with a few drops of brandy; add a little game fumet; cover, and serve very hot.

1885 — Cailles aux Cerises

For four quails:—Truss them as for an entrée and cook them with butter in a saucepan. Swill with a little brandy and a glass of port, in which a piece of orange rind should have soaked.

Add three tablespoonfuls of excellent veal stock, three tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly and about forty cherries, previously poached in a boiling syrup of about 18° (Saccharometer) and cooled in the syrup.

Drain them before adding them to the quail, and, if the sauce be too insipid, sharpen it with a few drops of lemon juice.

1886 — Cailles à la Dauphine

Wrap each quail in a buttered vine-leaf and a thin, square slice of bacon, and roast them for ten minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare a well-seasoned purée of fresh peas with lettuce, and reduce it to a somewhat stiff consistence.

Line the bottom and sides of a deep dish with very thin slices of ham; pour the purée into it; smooth the surface, and half-plunge the quails into this purée.

Place in the oven for ten minutes, and this done, send the dish to the table immediately.

1887 — Cailles Figaro

Insert a piece of truffle into each quail, and wrap them each in a piece of gut together with a bit of pale veal glaze, the size of a pigeon’s egg. String the pieces of gut at two points one in. from either extremity of the quails, that the envelope may not burst while cooking. Poach the quails in good veal stock, that they may not be washed as they would be if the gut happened to burst in a poaching-liquor consisting of salted water.

Serve the quails as they leave their cooking-liquor.

1888 — Cailles à la Grecque

Cook the quails in a saucepan, and set them in a timbale, half-garnished with “Riz à la Grecque.” Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of game fumet, and pour this swilling-liquor over the quails, without clearing it of grease.

1889 — Cailles Juliette

Divide the quails into two along the back and do not separate the two halves; season them; sprinkle them with melted butter and finely-chopped truffle. Wrap each quail in a piece of pig’s caul; sprinkle again with melted butter and fine raspings, and grill gently.

Dish the quails and sprinkle them with a few drops of verjuice.

1890 — Cailles Judic

Poële the quails.

Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a small, braised lettuce, with a cock’s kidney on either side and a truffle on top. Coat with a half-glaze sauce prepared with quail fumet.

1891 — Cailles Lucullus

Cook the quails in butter. Dish them in a circle on a round dish, each on an oval or rectangular fried croûton, and between each set a fine truffle cooked in Champagne and chicken glaze.

1892 — Cailles à la Normande

Peel, mince and toss some apples in butter, as explained under “Faisan à la Normande.” Allow half an apple per quail. Garnish the bottom of a cocotte with some of these apples; upon them set the quails, browned in butter; add what remains of the apples; sprinkle with a few tablespoonfuls of cream, and complete the cooking in the oven.

1893 — Cailles aux Petits Pois à la Romaine

Cook the quails in butter. At the same time, fry in butter one small new onion and two-thirds oz. of raw, chopped ham, for each quail. Add some peas, shelled at the last moment, and cook without any moistening whatsoever.

The moisture contained in the ham and peas is sufficient for the cooking. The peas should be ready simultaneously with the quails.

Serve the quails and the peas separately, in little, closed timbales. The diner mixes them.

1894 — Cailles aux Raisins

Cook the quails in butter. Swill the utensil with a few drops of dry, white wine and a little verjuice; add half a tablespoonful of strong game fumet for each quail; and dish in a very hot cocotte with about one oz. of fresh peeled grapes for each quail.

1895 — Cailles Richelieu

Select some fresh and plump quails; remove their gizzards; season them inside with a grain of salt and a few drops of brandy; insert a piece of raw truffle into each bird, and truss them as for an entrée. Set them in a sautépan, snugly pressed one against the other, and season them with salt. Cover them with a coarse julienne of carrots, onions and celery, cooked in butter, and prepared as far as possible from new vegetables.

Moisten, just enough to cover, with some succulent amber-coloured veal stock, gelatinous and fine; cover, boil, and then poach gently for twelve minutes.

This done, add a julienne of truffles (raw if possible) which should equal only half of the vegetable julienne, and poach for a further two minutes, that the truffles may cook and the quails be done.

Dish in a timbale, clear of grease, and pour the cooking-liquor and the julienne over the quails.

Pilaff rice is often served with quails prepared in this way.

1896 — Rizotto de Cailles

Into each quail insert a piece of fresh, pounded pork fat, the size of a hazel nut, combined with an equal quantity of white truffle; and cook them in a saucepan with butter.

Add their fat to a previously-prepared Rizotto. Dish this rizotto in a timbale, and hollow it out so as to make a nest for the quails.

Sprinkle the latter with the saucepan-swillings, consisting of game fumet; and send the dish to the table at once.

1897 — Cailles Sous la Cendre

Stuff the quails with a little smooth truffled game forcemeat, and wrap them each in a buttered vine-leaf, followed by a slice of bacon, and finally by two sheets of buttered paper.

Place them on the hearth-stone; cover them with very hot cinders, and cook thus for thirty-five minutes, taking care to renew the hot cinders from time to time.

When about to serve them, remove the outside covering of paper which is charred, but leave the other coverings.

N.B.—A log fire is essential for this recipe.

1898 — Cailles Souvaroff

Prepare these as described under “Faisan à la Souvaroff” (No. 1845).

1899 — Cailles à la Turque

Truss the quails as for an entrée; brown them in butter, and complete their cooking in pilaff rice, combined with a quarter of its weight of cooked and chopped egg-plant pulp.

Set the rice in a pyramid on a dish; place the quails all round (upright against the rice), and surround with a thread of quail fumet.

1900 — Timbale de Cailles Alexandra

Coat a well-buttered timbale mould with patty paste, and line it with slices of bacon so as to completely cover the paste. The slices of bacon in this case are there to prevent the moistening of the timbale from reaching the paste. Insert a piece of foie gras into each quail; stiffen them in butter, and set them against the sides of the timbale in successive tiers.

Completely garnish the middle with small, peeled truffles; add one-quarter pint of excellent stock with Madeira (per six quails), and a few bits of bay-leaf. Close the timbale with a layer of paste and cook in a moderately hot oven for one and one-quarter hours.

Turn out upon withdrawing from the oven, and serve the dish as it stands.

N.B.—(1) The shell of paste merely serves to hold in the quails and their garnish, and ought not to be eaten.

(2) The same timbale may be prepared with ortolans, except that these need only forty-five minutes’ cooking.

Cold Quails

1901 — Chaud-Froid de Cailles en Belle-Vue

The quails should be boned for a chaud-froid, and stuffed with gratin forcemeat of game with a rod of foie gras and another of truffle set in the middle. This done, reshape them; wrap them each in a square of muslin; poach them for twenty minutes in an excellent veal stock, and let them cool therein.

When they are quite cold, dry them; and dip them, so as to veneer them all over, in a good brown chaud-froid sauce (No. 34), prepared with quail fumet. Decorate the breast of each quail elegantly with bits of truffle and poached white of egg; sprinkle with cold melted savoury jelly, so as to fix the decoration; and leave to set.

Remove the excess of sauce from around the quails; set them in a square, deep dish; cover them with very good limpid savoury jelly, and place them in a refrigerator until they are required.

1902 — Cailles en Caisses

Prepare the quails as for a chaud-froid, as above; but set each in an oval, pleated case of delicate porcelain or paper. Border with a thin thread of chopped jelly, and on each quail set a head, the eyes of which may be imitated by means of a ring of white of egg and a central spot of truffle.

1903 — Cailles Glacées au Granité

I shall only give a few recipes of this class; for the series is a long one, and I recommend them more particularly on account of their quaintness. These dishes, wherein a sugary and glazed preparation is introduced, are highly esteemed in summer; but they really belong to the culinary repertory of hot countries.

1904 — Cailles Glacées Cerisette

Prepare the quails as for an entrée and poach them for 12 minutes in a strong veal stock, with Champagne. This done, put them each into a small, oval mould; fill up these moulds with cooking-liquor, cleared of all grease and strained, and leave them to set on ice.

This preliminary procedure applies to all quail dishes in this series.

Now prepare a Granité with cherry juice (see No. 2930).

Set this Granité in a pyramid on a dish incrusted in ice. Turn out the quails and place them round the Granité; fill up the gaps between them with small heaps of stoned cherries, poached in syrup for a few minutes and quite cold.

1905 — Cailles Glacées Carmen

Prepare the quails as above, and place them round a rock of Granité made from pomegranates.

1906 — Cailles Glacées Maryland

Set them round a rock of Granité made with pineapple.

1907 — Cailles Glacées Reine Amelie

Prepare the quails in the usual way, and lay them round a rock of Granité prepared with tomatoes.

1908 — Cailles Glacées au Romanée

Poach the quails in stock combined with Romanée wine, and set them round a rock of Granité made with verjuice.

1909 — Filets de Cailles aux Pommes D’Or

Raise the quails’ suprêmes, after having poached and cooled them. Set these suprêmes in the rinds of small oranges or tangerines, and fill up the rinds with jelly prepared with Port. When about to serve, deck each orange or tangerine, by means of the piping-bag, with a small ornament of Granité, prepared with the juice of the fruit used.

1910 — Cailles Cecilia

Roast the quails, keeping them juicy, and leave them to cool.

This done, raise their fillets and skin these; then, with the remains of the meat and an equal quantity of foie gras, prepare a purée.

Set each fillet of quail on a similarly-shaped slice of liver, causing it to adhere by means of the prepared purée, and coat with brown chaud-froid sauce.

When the sauce has quite set, place these fillets in an even border-mould, clothed with very limpid aspic, and decorated with truffles. Fill up the mould with the same aspic jelly, and let the latter set.

When about to serve, turn out on a napkin, after the manner of an aspic.

1911 — Cailles au Château-Yquem

Prepare the quails like those “à la Richelieu” (No. 1895). After having added the julienne, sprinkle them with Château-Yquem; cover; reduce, and complete their cooking as directed.

When they are poached, transfer them to another saucepan; add ten slices of truffle per quail; strain their cooking-liquor, through muslin, over them, and poach them for a further two minutes.

This done, place the quails in a timbale; cover them with the cooking-liquor cleared of all grease; leave it to set, and serve on a block of ice.

1912 — Mandarines de Cailles

Slice the tangerine rinds at their stem-ends with an even round cutter; remove the sections; put them to dry, and skin them raw.

Three-parts garnish the tangerine rinds with a quail Mousse, combined with foie gras, cut into dice; set a roasted quail’s fillet on the Mousse; coat with brown chaud-froid sauce, and cover with the sections of tangerine, glazed with aspic jelly. Keep in the cool for some time and dish on a napkin.

1913 — Cailles Nillson

Proceed as for “Cailles au Château-Yquem,” and set each quail in a small, silver cassolette. Cover with the cooking-liquor, cleared of grease and strained, and surround each quail with four small very white cocks’ kidneys.

1914 — Cailles Richelieu Froides

Prepare these like the “Hot Cailles Richelieu”; place them in a square, deep dish; cover with the cooking-liquor and the garnish and let them cool until the cooking-liquor sets. Then clear the dish of all grease and serve on a block of ice.

1915 — Timbale de Cailles Tzarine

Line a round pie-dish with ordinary paste, and coat it inside with slices of bacon. In the middle, place a fresh foie gras seasoned with salt, pepper and allspice, and surround it with quails, stuffed with quarters of truffles, set upright with their breasts against the bacon.

Fill up the timbale with whole raw and peeled truffles; cover with a round slice of bacon; close the timbale with a layer of paste sealed down round the edges; make a slit in the top, and bake in a hot oven for one and one-quarter hours.

When withdrawing the timbale from the oven, pour into it some veal stock flavoured with Madeira, and let it be sufficiently gelatinous to set like a jelly.

Keep the timbale in the cool for one or two days before serving it.

1916 — Cailles à la Vendangeuse

Roast the quails; let them cool, and set them, each in a little dosser of dry paste, resting against a cushion lying on a round dish. On top of the cushion plant a leafy vine-shoot bearing grapes. Surround the quails with white and black grapes (peeled and pipped) and cover with a slightly gelatinous aspic jelly, prepared with liqueur brandy.

1917 — Mousses de Cailles

See the various remarks made concerning this subject, under Pheasant, Partridge and Woodcock.

1918 — Land Rail, Roi de Cailles Ou Râle de Genêts

The Land Rail, which must not be confused with the Water Rail, is most often served roasted, but all the quail recipes, hot or cold (except those in which Granité forms an accompaniment) may be applied to it.

1919 — Hazel-Hens

1920 — Black game

1921 — Prairie-Hens

1922 — Ptarmigan

1923 — Grouse

1924 — Gangas

These birds, one or two of which, such as grouse and the hazel-hen, are of incomparable delicacy and high culinary value, are mostly served roasted.

Mousses, Mousselines and Salmis are also prepared from them, after the directions already given. But I must remind the reader that when they serve in the preparation of a salmis, their skins and legs, which are bitter, must be discarded.

All these birds must be treated while still very fresh.

1925 — Grives et Merles de Corse (Thrushes and Corsican Blackbirds)

The greater part of the quail recipes, more particularly the “en casserole” and “sous la cendre” ones, may be applied to these excellent birds.

The two following recipes are proper to them.

1926 — Grives Ou Merles à la Bonne-Femme

Cook the birds in butter, with one oz. of very small dice of salted breast of bacon to each bird. Put them into a hot cocotte with two-thirds oz. of butter per bird; heat; add some square croûtons fried in butter; sprinkle with the saucepan-swillings, which should be a few drops of brandy; cover, and serve very hot immediately.

1927 — Grives Ou Merles à la Liégeoise

Cook the birds in butter on the stove, in an uncovered earthenware saucepan. When they are nearly done, sprinkle them with two finely-chopped juniper berries per bird; add some round croûtons of bread-crumb fried in butter; cover, and serve very hot.

This procedure particularly suits thrushes, more especially when these come from the Ardennes.

1928 — Grives et Merles Froids

The various, cold preparations of quails, except those comprising a Granité, may be applied to thrushes.

Alouettes Ou Mauviettes (Larks)

These birds are generally served to the number of two or three for each person.

1929 — Mauviettes à la Bonne-Femme

Proceed exactly as directed for the thrushes.

1930 — Mauviettes à la Mère Marianne

Slice some peeled and cored russet apples, and three-parts cook them in butter. Spread this stew in thick layers on a buttered dish.

Simply stiffen the seasoned larks in nut-brown butter, and place them upon the stewed apples, pressing them slightly into the latter. Sprinkle with very fine bread-crumbs and melted butter, and set to glaze in the oven or at the Salamander, just long enough to complete the cooking of the larks.

1931 — Alouettes du Père Philippe

Clean some fine, medium-sized potatoes, allowing one to each lark; and cut a cover from each, which thin down until it is only one-sixth inch thick. With a root-spoon, hollow out the potatoes in such wise as to allow of their each enclosing a lark.

Stiffen the larks in butter, and add thereto some salted breast of bacon, cut into small dice and blanched, and in the proportion of one-third oz. per lark. Place a lark in each potato, together with a few bacon dice and some of the cooking-fat; return cover of each potato to its place; fix it there by means of cotton, and wrap each potato in oiled paper.

Lay them on the hearth, cover them with hot cinders, and cook for about forty minutes, taking care to renew the cinders from time to time.

1932 — Mauviettes Froides

When cold, larks may be prepared in plain chaud-froid fashion, in cases, in Belle-vue, in Aspic, as Mousses, &c., in pursuance of the directions given under these various recipes.

1933 — Ortolans

Serve ortolans as plainly as possible; but the best method of preparing them is roasting. However, for the sake of variety, they may be prepared as follows:—

1934 — Sylphides D’Ortolans

Butter some very small porcelain or silver cassolettes, and garnish them half-full with mousseline forcemeat of ortolans prepared with truffle essence.

Set these cassolettes in the front of the oven, that the forcemeat may poach. Cook in butter, for three minutes only, as many ortolans as there are garnished cassolettes, and proceed so as to have them just ready when the forcemeat is poached.

Place an ortolan in each cassolette, and sprinkle them with nut-brown butter, combined with a little pale melted glaze and pineapple juice.

1935 — Becs-Figues et Beguinettes (Fig Peckers)

These birds are not met with in English markets; it is therefore useless to give the recipes concerning them. I will only say that they may be prepared like the larks.

1936 — Canards Sauvages (Wild Duck)

1937 — Sarcelles (Teal)

1938 — Pilets (Pintails and Widgeons)

Birds of this class are mostly served roasted.

They may, however, be used in preparing excellent Salmis, which may be made after “Salmis de Faisan” (No. 1847) or after “Salmis à la Rouennaise” (No. 1763).

They may also be prepared after all the recipes of “Caneton à la Rouennaise.”

1939 — Pluviers Dorés (Golden Plover)

1940 — Vanneaux (Lapwings)

1941 — Chevaliers Divers (Various Sandpipers)

These various birds are generally served roasted.

They may also be served “en Salmis,” but in that case the skin must be discarded in the preparation of the cullis.

They only appear on very ordinary menus, and could not be served at an important dinner.

Notes

In the first place, it is my practice to remove the fowl’s two suprêmes, in the kitchen, and to keep them warm in a little cooking-liquor until the last minute. Secondly, I remove all the bones of the breast, and I reconstruct the fowl with a garnish in keeping with the dish, i.e., either a mousseline forcemeat, pilaff rice combined with cream, foie gras and truffles, spaghetti, or noodles with cream.

Dish the pullet; surround it with the braised celery, and cover the latter with the poëling-liquor.

N.B.—This dish was served for the first time to Mme. Adelina Patti, the great singer.

Reconstruct the pullet with this preparation; smooth the surface, and surround the base of the pullet with a band of paper, so that it may keep its form. Set some thin slices of Gruyère cheese upon it; dish it, and cook it in a moderately hot oven.

Swill the saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of consommé; add three tablespoonfuls of pale glaze, a few drops of lemon juice, and one and one-half oz. of butter; and pour this sauce over the chicken.

Surround the latter with three oz. of grapes, cleared of all skin and pips, and ten sections of an orange, peeled in suchwise that the pulp of the fruit is raw.

Cover the sautépan, and set the whole to stew in the oven for ten minutes.

Dish the chicken; pour the sauce over it, and surround it with grilled capsicums and mushrooms, garnished with concassed tomatoes cooked in butter.

In the latter case, they are opened in the thickness, by means of the point of a small knife, to form sacks; and, in the resulting interstice the selected stuffing is inserted, with the help of a piping-bag fitted with a little, even pipe, and in a sufficient quantity to fill out the suprêmes well.

In the middle of these joined suprêmes of chicken, put an ortolan; wrap it in them, and tie them round once or twice with string, that they may keep the shape of a paupiette.

At the end of thirty-five minutes transfer the pieces to another saucepan; put back the bacon; add twenty-four small onions, tossed in butter, one lb. of turnips shaped like elongated olives and glazed, and strain the sauce over the whole.

Whichever way they are made, however, the boudins are poached like quenelles, and are afterwards drained on a piece of linen. They are then dipped in beaten egg and rolled in bread-crumbs, and, finally, gently coloured in clarified butter, that their inside may get heated at the same time.

Add to this butter twenty-four fine cocks’ kidneys (it is essential that these should be fresh); season them with salt, pepper, and a little red pepper, and cook them for from five to six minutes, which should prove sufficient.

1 When prepared as directed above, all meats, whether of poultry, game, fish, crustacea or mollusca, &c., may serve in the preparation of croquettes or cutlets.

This procedure allows of using less gelatinous products in the preparation of the aspic, and the latter is therefore much more delicate, mellow, and melting.

Then cut them into rectangles of equal sizes; and, if necessary, bisect them in the thickness.

Border the dish with fine croûtons of jelly, and serve a mayonnaise sauce at the same time.

Add a little chicken jelly to the bird’s cooking-liquor, which should not have been cleared of grease, but merely strained through a napkin; and pour this sauce over the pullet.

This done, transfer the pieces to another stewpan and add thereto twenty small, glazed onions, twenty chestnuts cooked in consommé, ten chipolata sausages, one-third lb. of frizzled pieces of fresh pork cut into dice, and twenty olive-shaped and glazed carrots. Strain the sauce over the whole, complete the cooking and dish in a timbale.

When about to serve, take the piping-bag and make a fine rosette of a purée of peas in the centre of each medallion. Set these medallions in a circle on a round dish, around a little bowl of carved, fried bread, garnished with the same purée of peas.

Cut the gosling into pieces and proceed exactly as for “Civet de Lièvre” (No. 1821).

Meanwhile, braise in the usual way two lbs. of sauerkraut with one-half lb. of salted breast of pork.

Dish with the garnish of turnips and onions, arranged round the bird.

Strain this sauce through muslin; clear it of grease, and send it in a sauceboat at the same time as the duckling.

With some reserved forcemeat, combined with an equal weight of foie-gras purée, garnish some tartlet crusts, and poach them at the same time as the soufflé.

Dish them in a circle; garnish their midst with asparagus-heads cohered with butter, and serve a light, Madeira sauce separately.

When about to prepare the civet, drain and dry these pieces, and proceed exactly as for “Civet de Lièvre” (No. 1821), except for the thickening by means of blood, which the difficulty of obtaining the blood of the roebuck perforce precludes.

Finish with a layer of forcemeat; cover with a slice of bacon; sprinkle a pinch of powdered thyme and bay over the latter; close the pie with a layer of paste, which should be sealed down round the moistened edges; pinch the crest inside and out, and finish off the pie by means of imitation leaves made from paste.

Besides, an old bird should never be served; it ought only to be used in the preparation of game stock or forcemeats.

N.B.—This last part of the recipe may be advantageously replaced by the “à la Souvaroff” treatment—that is to say, having placed the pheasant and the truffles in a terrine, sprinkle them with the reduced port combined with slightly buttered game glaze; then hermetically seal down the lid of the terrine, and complete the cooking in the oven.

(3) Accompany the pie by a Salmis sauce, prepared from the pheasant’s carcass and remains.

Clothe a dome-mould with clear aspic jelly, and deck it with truffles.

N.B.—This “Timbale Nesselrode” may be prepared after the same recipe, from Pheasant, Partridge, Woodcock or Hazel-Hen, but the name of the selected bird should, of course, appear on the menu.