Metz — Origin and Chief Historical Facts
The origin of Metz dates back to the Celtic epoch, when it was the capital of the Mediomatrici. The Romans fortified it, to defend the frontiers of the empire against the barbarians. Metz then became the centre of six great Roman roads leading to distant provinces: two from Metz to Rheims, two from Metz to Trèves (one on the right, the other on the left bank of the Moselle), one from Metz to Strasburg, and one from Metz to Mainz.
A very rich and populous town, it was embellished by numerous Roman buildings, of which excavations have laid bare important remains: an amphitheatre, near Porte Mazelle, and above all Gorze Aqueduct (4th century), more than thirteen miles in length, which brought water from Gorze to Metz. Some fine remains of the aqueduct may still be seen at Jouy-aux-Arches.
The Roman Emperors who visited Metz stayed at the Governors’ Palace, which stood in Place St. Croix.
Metz was taken and laid waste by the Huns in 451.
Half a century later it was rebuilt and, on the death of Clovis (511), became the capital of Austrasia and the cradle of the Carolingian dynasty. Louis-le-Débonnaire was buried in the Abbey of St. Arnoul. The Treaty of Verdun (843) gave it to Lothaire, who made it the capital of his kingdom Lotharingia (afterwards Lorraine). Thirty years later the Treaty of Mersen (870) handed it over to Louis the Germanic.
It was governed, in the name of the emperor, first by the counts and later by the bishops. In 1220, on the death of Count Thiébaut, the town became a sort of republic under the title of “Free Imperial Town,” and was governed by the sheriffs until 1552.
Under Henri II. the French, led by Montmorency, occupied the town, after a treaty concluded with Maurice of Saxony. The Duke of Guise, appointed Governor, energetically defended Metz, besieged by Emperor Charles-Quint (October 19, 1552). On January 1, 1553, Charles-Quint raised the siege, after having lost 30,000 men. For a long time the kings of France bore the title of “Protector.” Henri III. was the first to call himself “Sovereign Ruler.” The Parliament of Metz, created in 1633, completed the ruin of its municipal independence, and the Treaty of Westphalia (1648) definitely incorporated it with France. It was the capital of the “Three Bishoprics” formed by the union of Metz, Toul and Verdun.
Until the Revolution (1789) Metz, while escaping the horrors of war, constantly felt its effects. Troops were continually passing through it, and its barracks became a mustering-ground. Turenne, Villars, the Marquis de Créquy, and Marshal de Villeroy camped within its walls, and it was at Metz that in August, 1744, Louis XV. was taken seriously ill, on which occasion the whole of France prayed and fasted for their “well-beloved” King.
In 1790, Metz became the chief town of the new “Département” of Moselle. Two sieges, in 1814 and 1815, were victoriously resisted.
1870 was a black year in the annals of the town—till then known as “Virgin Metz.”A The battles of Borny (August 14), Rézonville (August 15), St. Privat (August 18), forced Marshal Bazaine to retire under the walls of the town. He resisted feebly, contenting himself with awaiting events, and did not even attempt to cut his way through, which would have saved the honour of the armies under his command. On October 28 he signed the capitulation, and on the following day surrendered with 173,000 men, 60 generals, 6,000 officers, 58 standards, 622 field-guns, 876 siege-guns, 72 machine-guns, 260,000 rifles and huge quantities of stores and munitions. Six months later (May 10, 1871), by the Treaty of Frankfort, Metz and part of the “département” of Moselle were ceded to Germany. Metz thus became the capital of German Lorraine.
It was from Metz that La Fayette set out in 1775 on his immortal expedition to help America win her freedom and independence. In grateful remembrance of that glorious event the “Knights of Columbus” recently decided to erect a statue of La Fayette in Metz (to be inaugurated in 1920).
The Fortifications
From its position Metz was destined to become a stronghold of the first importance. The Romans fortified the town built by the Gauls, and erected the first citadel. The walls were preserved for a long time, and Bishop Robert, in the 10th century, utilised their remains. It was only in the 12th century that the new ramparts included the island formed by the two arms of the Moselle. They consisted of a high wall protected by sixty-eight towers. In 1552 the Duke of Guise commissioned an engineer, Pierre Strozzi, to restore these fortifications, which had withstood two sieges (1444 and 1552), and were in a dilapidated condition. Four years later (1556) Marshal de Vieilleville erected a citadel flanked by four bastions, on the site of the old convents. This citadel (which remained standing until 1802) stood on the site of the present Esplanade.
About a century later Vauban, fully aware of the strategic value of Metz, conceived a great scheme, which was carried out in the 18th century by an engineer, M. Cormontaigne. Vauban, for his part, added eleven new bastions to those which already guarded the citadel, but it was Cormontaigne who perfected the plans for inundating the valley of the Seille by utilising the waters of Lindre Pond.
Metz became finally one of the most formidable fortresses of Europe.
Under Louis-Philippe the fortifications were entirely restored, and in 1866 preparations were made to rebuild them on a new plan, better adapted to the exigencies of modern armaments and technique. Of the four detached forts of St. Quentin, Plappeville, Queuleu and St. Julien, only the first two were completed in 1870.
The Germans considerably strengthened the fortifications by means of nineteen bastions surrounded by moats, the latter being protected by thirteen out-works. The length of the line of forts was increased to eighteen miles, and eleven new forts were added.
Metz After the Signing of the Armistice
When the Armistice was signed on November 11, the forts of Metz were within range of the American artillery, which had already bombarded them several times, while the troops had taken up the positions from which the offensive, arranged for the 16th, was to have been launched. The terms of the Armistice called for the evacuation of the invaded territory, including Alsace and Lorraine, before the 26th. It was into Metz, freed of German soldiers, that the French troops made a solemn entry on Tuesday, November 19, 1918, amid scenes of indescribable enthusiasm.
The march past took place on the Esplanade, before General Pétain, made Marshal that morning. Mounted on a white horse and wearing his large blue coat, he had taken his stand in front of the statue of Marshal Ney. He was assisted by General Fayolle, commanding a group of armies, and by Major-General Buat. General Mangin, commanding the 10th Army, had met with an accident while riding, and his place was taken by General Leconte. On the same day M. Mirman, who had been appointed Commissioner of the Republic, was received by General de Maud’huy, Governor of Metz. Salvos of cannon and the ringing of the famous “Mutte” bell in the Cathedral celebrated this joyful day.
On the following Sunday, November 24, the leading men of Metz elected the new Town Council, and decided to restore the names of the streets in use prior to 1870, and to name new streets after generals and prominent men who had distinguished themselves in the Great War. The list was published in a decree dated December 7.
On Sunday, December 8, President Poincaré, accompanied by the French Prime Minister, M. Clémenceau, the Presidents of the Chambers, Ministers, Marshals, and French and Allied Generals, proclaimed the definite return to France of the lost provinces. It was a day never to be forgotten by those who witnessed it. Young girls in the national costume of Lorraine—birthplace of the French President—marched through the streets, and flowers were showered from the windows on the procession.
In the morning there was a review on the Esplanade, and a Field-Marshal’s bâton was presented to General Pétain. The President of the Republic opened the proceedings with an address, after which an unforeseen and touching incident occurred; overcome with emotion, M. Poincaré and M. Clémenceau embraced each other.
In the afternoon there was a reception in the Hôtel-de-Ville, at which President Poincaré summed up in a stirring speech the whole history of Metz, and concluded with the following words:—
“Years have gone by, but Metz has not changed. The protests formerly made to the ‘Reichstag’ in the name of the people of Metz, in the name of all the people of Lorraine, by that great Bishop, Mgr. Dupont des Loges, continued calmly and firmly after his death. Citizens of Metz, you renewed them, year after year, by pilgrimages to Mars-la-Tour, by visits to the cemeteries, and by fostering French memories.... Beloved town of Metz, your nightmare is over—France returns and opens her arms to you!”
The procession was then received with great ceremony by Mgr. Felt at the Cathedral, and finally went to the cemetery of Chambière, to pay homage to the dead of 1870.
A Visit to Metz
Starting-point: the Place d’Armes.
The Place d’Armes, in which the Cathedral and the Hôtel-de-Ville stand, is a handsome square embellished with noble buildings. On its site formerly stood the Cathedral cloister, the musicians’ quarters, several chapels and private houses.
In 1753 the Governor, Marshal de Belle-Isle, decided that a square should be laid out there and a portal erected giving access to the Cathedral.
The plans of the architect (Blondel) for the portal made it necessary to lower the level of the ground. For months and years, canons and sheriffs alike stopped or impeded the work. During the night of August 9, 1755, M. de Belle-Isle called out the garrison, and had the work finished by torchlight. By morning the excavation was complete.
In the Place d’Armes stands a statue of Marshal Fabert (by Etex, 1840). The only inscription on the statue of the great Metz general (1599-1662), who was governor of Sedan, is one of his own sayings: “If, to prevent the enemy taking a place entrusted to my care by the king, it were necessary, I should not hesitate for an instant to sacrifice myself, my family, and all my belongings.”
The Cathedral
The whole of one side of the Place d’Armes is occupied by the Cathedral of St. Etienne, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. The body of the church reminds one of Amiens and Beauvais. If, on the outside, it appears somewhat narrow, the interior (393 feet long, 71 feet wide, 139 feet high), with its magnificent stained-glass, is imposing and of exceeding beauty.
The oldest portions of the Cathedral date from the 13th century.
The nave, completed in the 14th century, has eight bays. At the fourth bay it is flanked by two square towers.
The northern tower, called the “Mutte” Tower, contains the town-bell. It is surmounted by a fine spire, from which there is an extensive view of the surrounding country. It was there that the city watchman was installed, whose duty it was to give the alarm in case of fire. On the other side of the nave stands the Chapter Tower, which was finished in 1839. There is a fine doorway at the foot of each tower.
Another, smaller polygonal tower, called the Clock Tower, is built over the southern aisle.
On each side of the choir, where it meets the arms of the transept, are the two small “Charlemagne” towers, so called in memory of those which existed in the romanesque building. They give access by spiral stairways to the outside terraces over the Cathedral.
While the nave is 13th century the transept dates from the 15th, and the choir, built over a great sepulchral crypt, is contemporary with the last Gothic period.
Although completed in 1546 the Cathedral later underwent many alterations. Fires necessitated repairs, and in 1753, by order of the Governor (Marshal de Belle-Isle), the laying out of a square in front of the Cathedral necessitated the demolition of the outbuildings of the bishop’s house and the erection of a portal.
The ground was excavated to a depth of some eight or nine feet, and the architect (J. B. Blondel) was instructed to prepare plans on a grand scale.
This was done between 1761 and 1764, after which the work was at once put in hand, and completed in 1771. While endeavouring to respect the old building, Blondel sought, not so much to build the portal in the style of the Cathedral, as to erect an independent portal in front of the church. Its irregular lines contrast with the general style of the Cathedral.
In 1791, the rood-loft, old altars and vaults were removed, in accordance with the plans of Gardeur Lebrun. The roof, destroyed by fire on the night of May 6, 1877—the day Emperor Wilhelm I. entered Metz—was replaced in 1880-1882 by a copper roof several yards higher than the original.
Lastly, the Doric projection of the main front was pulled down in 1903 to make room for a portal planned in the style of the rest of the church. Statues of the prophets were carved at the corners, one of which—that of the prophet Daniel—is a likeness of the ex-Emperor of Germany, Wilhelm II. The people of Metz would not have the ex-Kaiser-prophet take part in the entry of the French, and during the night bound his hands with a chain attached to which was a board bearing the inscription, “Sic transit Gloria Mundi” (thus passes away man’s glory) (photo above).
The offending statue is to be replaced by a work of the Metz sculptor Hannaux, who designed the French monument at Noisseville.
In no other church is there so large an area of window space. It is calculated that in the transept and choir there are 4,071 square metres of glass and it is no exaggeration to say that the whole building seems to be one immense window.
Among the windows are several dating from the 13th century. The large rose-window at the end of the nave, which dates from the 14th century, is the work of the master-glassworker Hermann. The windows of the north transept and the Chapel of Our Lady date from the 15th century.
Those of the south transept, Chapel of St. Nicholas, choir and apse are 16th century.
The bell called “La Mutte,” which hangs in the tower of the same name, did not belong to the church, but to the town. The present bell, which is rung on all special occasions, was cast in 1505. It weighs thirteen tons and, when set in motion, causes the large and small spires to rock perceptibly. It bears the following inscription:
“Dame Mutte suis baptisée,
De par la Cité ci-posée,
Pour servir à la Cité
Aux jours de grandes solennités:
Et aussi pour crier justice,
Prendre ban de bonne police;
Les contredire quand bon me semble
Et pour convoquer gens ensemble.”
The best view of Metz and the surrounding country is to be obtained from the top of the Cathedral tower. Here one realizes the immense importance of the forts, of which the Moselle is a kind of natural moat. On the left bank the steeply rising hills form natural defences, while the lower hills on the right bank are reinforced by the line of forts. From their gleam in the distance one gets a better idea of the number of waterways which surround and run through Metz—the River Seille, the streams of St. Pierre, Noisseville, and Châtel-St.-Germain, the River Moselle (which divides), and the canal running parallel to it. Before Metz lies the large island of St. Symphorion; then, near the Wadrineau dyke, the smaller island of Saulcy. At the foot of old Metz there is yet another arm of the Moselle, which divides, forming an island, on which stand the Prefecture and Theatre. Beyond lies the large island of Chambière, recognisable by its parade-ground and cemeteries.
The Hôtel-de-Ville
On leaving the Cathedral the tourist should next visit the Town Hall, also in the Place d’Armes (1766-1771). The architecture is simple: façade embellished with two pediments and handsome railings. A portico leads to a fine staircase. Opposite the balustrade is a bas-relief in white marble on which are engraved the famous lines of Ausonius: “Salve magna parens frugumque virumque Mosella....” (“Hail, O Moselle! illustrious mother of fruits and of men.”)
In the interior are large reception-rooms, in which the public meetings of the Academy are held. The Academy of Metz was founded in 1760 by Marshal de Belle-Isle under the title of “The Royal Society of Literature, Science and Art,” and endowed with the sum of sixty thousand “livres.” Suppressed at the Revolution, then restored on March 14, 1819, with the motto “Useful,” it obtained the title of “Royal Academy” from Charles X. on September 5, 1828. It consists of thirty-six titular members, eighteen resident members, and four honorary corresponding and associate members. The Academy largely contributed to maintain French culture in Lorraine during the German annexation.
In the grand staircase there are three windows, erected in 1852, in the middle, the Duke of Guise after the siege of Metz; on the right, Bishop Bertram of Metz; on the left, Sheriff Pierre Baudoche (1464-1489).
The flag which now flies over the building is the one which was there in 1870, and which was carefully preserved in the Carnavalet Museum in Paris. It was restored to the Mayor of Metz by the Vice-President of the Town Council of Paris on December 25, 1918.
Leaving the Town Hall take Rue Fabert on the left of the Place d’Armes, then its continuation (Rue des Clercs). At the end of the latter, on the left, is the Place de la République, and on the right the Esplanade.
The fine Promenade de l’Esplanade served as a parade-ground for the garrison troops, who defiled along the first row of plane-trees, past the statue of Marshal Ney (by Pètre, 1855). Ney, Duke of Elchingen and Prince of Moskowa, was born at Sarrelouis. He is represented, rifle in hand, ready to fire.
Moskowa, was born at Sarrelouis. He is represented, rifle in hand, ready to fire.
Go to the end of the Esplanade, beyond the bandstand on the terrace; magnificent view of the Hill and Fort of St. Quentin, Fort Plappeville and the Moselle. The island of Saulcy, on which stands the powder-factory, is just opposite.
It was on this terrace that the bronze equestrian statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I. (1892) used to stand. According to the inscription on the pedestal the statue was erected by the Emperor’s “grateful people.” The conqueror was represented pointing to the Moselle and the powerful forts of Plappeville and St. Quentin which protect the town.
The “grateful people” dragged this statue off its pedestal into the mud a few days before the French entered the town, and on the night of January 6 replaced it with a statue “To the Victorious Poilu,” bearing the inscription “On les a” (variation of the famous rallying cry “On les aura”) as a pleasant surprise for Marshal Pétain who, next day, was to decorate sixteen regiments with the “fourragère” cord and bestow decorations on various officers and soldiers. This statue was made in seven days by the local sculptor Bouchard (photos, p. 128).
In the Esplanade stands the Palais-de-Justice (1776), on the site of the former Hôtel de la Haute-Pierre, the property of the Duke of Suffolk, lover of Mary Tudor, Queen of England. He had this mansion pulled down and the fine Hôtel de Suffolk built, which, for a long time, served as the Government House. Finally, in 1776, Clairisseaux built the present palace. The iron railings of the grand staircase and, in the inner court, two bas-reliefs—one recalling the humanity of the Duke of Guise in succouring the soldiers of the Duke of Albe after the raising of the siege; the other glorifying the peace concluded in 1783 between England, France, Spain, the United States of America and Holland, are especially noteworthy.
Return to the Place de la République and take on the right the Avenue de la Citadelle, which separates the Esplanade from the Place de la République. Follow this avenue, which soon skirts on the left the Engineers’ Barracks, and a garden.
Beyond the garden, turn to the left into the Avenue du Maréchal Joffre, which leads to the Place du Roi-George (in front of the old railway station). It was here that the statue of Kaiser Frederick III. was pulled down by the people. Not far from this square may be seen a round tower—a relic of the ramparts of the Middle Ages.
Turning his back on the old railway station, the tourist next takes Avenue Serpenoise (beside the gardens), along which run the tram lines. On the left is the Serpenoise Gate (1852).
Continue along the Avenue, which skirts, on the left, first the Engineers’ Barracks, then Place de la République.
Beyond the latter the Avenue is continued by Rue Serpenoise—the busiest street in Metz—which take. Rue Ladoucette, which continues it, leads to Rue Fournirue.
Take the latter on the right, then Rue du Change (which continues it to the right) to Place St. Louis.
In former times, Place St. Louis (or Place du Change) was occupied by sixty moneychangers’ stalls. Several of the houses in the square have retained their battlements, pointed or semicircular arches, tricusped windows and Renaissance balconies. The name of St. Louis comes from a statue of Louis XIII., found among the ruins of the citadel and which the Curé of St. Simplice took for one of Louis IX. Mystery plays used to be acted in the square, which later was used for the execution of criminals. Finally, it became the corn market.
At the end of the square take Rue Royale, then turn to the left into Rue Coislin, which skirts the Coislin Barracks.
At the end of Rue Coislin take Rue Pont-à-Seille to Place des Charrons, then, at the end of this square, Rue du Grand-Wad, to the Rempart des Allemands. Follow the latter to the left as far as the German Gate.
The German Gate, on the banks of the Seille, is a remarkable structure.
Mention of it occurs as early as 1324. In the 15th century it was completely restored by the architect Henri de Banceval.
Opposite the Gate take the Rue des Allemands; on the right is the interesting Church of St. Rucaire. Continue to Place des Paraiges.
At the end of the square, take Rue Saulnerie to the right (continued on the left by Rue du Paradis), which leads to Rue des Capucins. At the end of the latter is Place des Maréchaux, in which stands the Church of St. Ségolène, built on the site of an oratory founded by St. Ségolène in the 8th century. The present church, built at two different periods (the choirs, nave and portal are earlier than the aisles), dates from about the 13th century. Long, narrow windows, mostly double, end in stanchions. The two side chapels contain fine stained-glass. Note the curious open-work gallery of the organ loft, and several interesting paintings.
Turn to the left and take the Rue des Trinitaires. Skirt an old building with a square turret, beside a doorway—“Hostel St. Ligier”—then turn to the right into Rue de la Bibliothèque.
In this street, at the corner of Rue Chèvremont, there is a large building (formerly the Church of the Petits-Carmes), the work of Sébastian Leclerc, in which are housed both the library (80,000 volumes and 1,987 manuscripts) and the Museum (local archæology, natural history, objects of art and three rooms of pictures).
Besides the museum, take Rue Chèvremont, which runs into Rue de la Boucherie, in which turn to the left to St. Georges Bridge over the Moselle.
Cross this bridge, from which there is a lovely view, and take the Rue du Pont St. Georges. Rue Chambière opens at once on the right, and leads to Chambière Cemetery, in which are the graves of the French soldiers who fell in the siege of 1870.
The road passes between the large slaughter house and cattle market, and huts serving as an army stores. Cross an old cemetery, in the middle of which are several monumental tombs. Skirt the Jewish cemetery and the Moselle, as far as the Military Cemetery: numerous graves under the trees. In the centre stands a pyramid thirty-seven feet high, with a great number of piled up coffins carved on the base. Here lie the soldiers who died in the Metz hospitals of wounds received in the battles of Borny, Gravelotte, St. Privat, Servigny, Peltre and Ladonchamps—7,203 in number.
On the principal façade is a bas-relief in white marble representing religion, taken from a disused vault belonging to the de Salse family. On the other side are inscriptions. At the base of the pyramid is the inscription: “The Women of Metz to those whom they nursed.”
Beside the pyramid there is a monument to the memory of the fallen French officers.
For forty-eight years wreaths, tri-colour cockades and ribbons were piously placed on these graves, and on each anniversary day the women of Metz covered them with flowers.
Take Rue du Pont St. Georges to Rue St. Vincent (on the left), which follow, then turn to the right into Rue des Bénédictins.
Apply at No. 7 to visit the Church of St. Clément.
Founded in 1668, the choir, nave and aisles were begun in 1680 by Spinga, an Italian. The portal was damaged during the Revolution. To-day the church forms part of the college founded by the Jesuits. A fine cloister with a well should be visited.
Return to Rue des Bénédictins and follow it as far as Rue St. Vincent (on the left), which leads to the square of the same name, where stands the curious Church of St. Vincent, founded in 1248.
Partially destroyed by fire in 1711, by an apostate monk, it was used as a stable during the Revolution, and then as a hospital in 1814. Once more a church, a portal in composite style was added. The graceful nave on twelve shafted pillars, the symmetrical choir and the fine chapels in pointed style are well worth seeing.
Continue along Rue St. Vincent, on the other side of the square. Its continuation, Rue St. Marcel, leads to Rue du Pont-à-Mort, into which turn to the left.
Cross the Moselle by Moyen Bridge (lovely view). Take Rue St. Marie, which continues the bridge, then Rue du Faisan on the left, leading to the pretty little Place de Chambre. This square owes its name to the Knights of Malta, who in 1323 lived there in a castle called Petit St. Jean.
From the Place de Chambre return to the Cathedral and to the Place d’Armes by the narrow Rue d’Estrées.
Third Day
Metz-Etain-Verdun
(See Itinerary, pp. 138-139)
Leave Metz (Place d’Armes) by Rue d’Estrées, cross Place de Chambre (soon reached on the left), take Rue Faisan, then Rue St. Marie, leading to Moyen Bridge over an arm of the Moselle. Cross the bridge and take Rue du Pont-à-Mort. Cross the ramparts, then the second arm of the Moselle. Take Rue de Paris and, follow the tram lines towards Moulins; after crossing the second belt of ramparts and the railway, the route turns to the left.
The road hereabouts is bordered with fine trees. After passing through Ban-St.-Martin (Infantry Barracks on the right) and Longeville-les-Metz, the tourist arrives at Moulins.
At the fork, take the Verdun road, on the right, which passes in front of the barracks.
Two hundred yards beyond Moulins leave on the right the Briey road, and at the milestone marked “Metz 7 km.,” turn to the left into the uphill road to Gravelotte.
Near milestone “Metz 9 km.,” there is a fine view of Metz: in the foreground the village of Rozérieulles is seen in the valley; in the background, the Moselle valley and Metz.
At the top of Hill 342, the road passes near Joan-of-Arc Fort, formerly the German fort “Kaiserin.” It stands about 300 yards to the right of the road. The latter, a little further on, turns sharply to the left near a monument surrounded with trees, which was erected to the memory of the soldiers who fell in 1870. Several graves bear the inscription: “Krieger v. 18 8-1870.”
St. Hubert Farm is soon reached, then the deep Ravine of Mance, along which the defeated Germans were forced to retreat in the course of the great battle of August 16, 1870, fought between the villages of Gravelotte (which the tourist soon reaches), Rézonville and Mars-la-Tour (further west).
In Gravelotte (12 km. 700 from Metz) take the road to Doncourt (D.I.) on the right, in front of the Post Office. The road passes close to Mogador Farm, from which Kaiser Wilhelm I. saw his troops thrown into confusion and beating a hurried retreat under the cover of night.
After passing in front of Malmaison Farm, the old frontier is crossed.
Eight kilometres 900 beyond Gravelotte, Doncourt village is reached. Cross through and keep straight on along D.I. After passing by Jarny Mines, the road crosses the railway (l.c.) and enters Jarny village, 4 km. from Doncourt. Several houses were destroyed and the church badly damaged.
Two kilometres beyond Jarny, Conflans-en-Jarnizy is reached. Several of the houses were destroyed. Go through the village and at the far end take the Etain road. 5 km. from Conflans, Jeandelize is reached. The church (on the right) was torn open by shells. Note the Renaissance doors of several of the houses.
Keep straight on. Olley village (on the right) is passed, 2 km. beyond Jeandelize. There is a large German cemetery fifty yards from the road on the right.
St. Jean-lés-Buzy and Buzy (the latter 11 km. from Conflans) are passed through, after which Hill 198—on which is a German stronghold with blockhouse, trenches and barbed wire entanglements—is reached.
The partly destroyed village of Warcq is next passed through, after which 2 km. further on, Etain is reached.
Etain
Etain was looted by the Swedes in 1622, during the reign of Louis XIII. Later, it was often taken and retaken by the French, Germans, Spaniards and Lorrains. Its fortifications were destroyed under Louis XIV. By the Treaty of Vienna (18th century) the town was definitely ceded to France.
In October, 1792, Kellermann’s advance guards, in pursuit of the Prussians, encamped at Etain.
In 1914, the town was bombarded by the Germans on August 24, from 1 p.m. to 2 a.m. the next day, and again on the 25th at 11 o’clock, with incendiary shells.
Many of the inhabitants were killed on the 24th. On the 25th others, who had taken refuge in the cellars of the Town Hall, perished under the ruins of that building. 200 fled along the Verdun road. A girl telephonist remained at her post and kept in touch with Verdun every quarter of an hour. Her last message (on the 25th) was: “A bomb has just fallen on the office.”
The same day French troops routed the German XXXIIIrd D.R. in a glorious battle at Etain. Nevertheless, the enemy occupied the town, which was systematically looted. Every two days train-loads of furniture, linen, wines, food, cloth, boots, tools and raw materials were sent to Germany.
In April, 1915, French troops captured Hills 219 and 221, Hôpital Farm (formerly belonging to Order of St. Jean de Rhodes) and Haut-Bois Farm, reaching the immediate vicinity of the town, without, however, entering it.
In the partly destroyed town, N. 18 is picked up again, which take to the left. The greatly damaged church (photos, pp. 141 and 142) is seen on the right. Its belfry was torn open by the bombardments, leaving visible the interior, where the Germans had installed an observation-post.
Viollet-le-Duc considered the Church of Etain, with its three naves, as one of the five most remarkable churches in the Meuse province. Begun in the 13th century, it was completed in the 15th. The imposing choir, with its large, many-mullioned windows, is 15th century. In the right aisle are a remarkable holy-water basin, and a statue of Our Lady of Mercy by Ligier Richier. The basin is of bell-metal and, like those of Nevers and Bourges, shaped like a mortar, but the epitaph round it proves its sacred origin. The Ligier Richier group (1528) represents the Virgin Mary gazing on the dead body of Christ. It differs slightly from that of Clermont-en-Argonne, attributed to the same sculptor.
Beyond Etain, N. 18 crosses the Orne stream (photo, p. 141) and the military defences of the town, of which several concrete works remain.
The road crosses Woëvre Plain. Shortly before reaching the level-crossing, before arriving at the railway station and village of Abaucourt, the Meuse Heights can clearly be seen on the horizon, at the end of Woëvre Plain (panorama above).
Go through Abaucourt (razed to the ground) to Fiévèterie Farm (in ruins), which lies at the foot of the Meuse Heights (photo, p. 144). A road starts on the left of the farm and leads to the small ruined village of Eix, which was the scene of fierce fighting throughout the war.
The road up the Meuse Heights is fairly steep and passes between the Forts of Souville and Tavannes (on the right) and Moulainville Fort (on the left). It then descends in a gentle slope to Verdun, which is entered by the Faubourg Pavé and Chaussée Gate.
Notes
A Its coat of arms consists of an escutcheon argent and sable surmounted by a maiden crowned by towers and holding a palm in her left hand. It was, in fact, the proudest claim of Metz, until 1870, that it had never been taken since it had become a fortified city. In 1815 the armies of the “Holy Alliance” were refused permission to march through, when they evacuated French territory, and were obliged to cross the Moselle over a bridge which the people of Metz erected at the very foot of the ramparts, just outside the town.