Second Day — Commercy — Pont-à-Mousson — Metz
A.—Commercy to Pont-à-Mousson (See above.)
B.—Pont-à-Mousson to Metz (See p. 109.)
Leave Commercy (Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville) by the Rue du Pont-des-Religieuses which, after crossing the Meuse, joins N. 58. Take the latter.
Pass through Vignot (2 km.) and enter Vignot Wood (French gun emplacements).
After crossing the wood the tourist approaches Gironville. Before entering the village, on the crest to the right, is Gironville Fort.
In the village immediately beyond the church, N. 58 turns to the left. Continue along it for 500 yards beyond the church, then leave it where it turns to the right, and take G.C.D. 10 towards Apremont.
The road crosses the old French and German lines (shelters and blockhouses), then rejoins, 200 yards east of Apremont, G.D.C. 1 bis, which take to the right towards Bouconville.
Before going to Bouconville, visit Apremont, Brûlé Wood and Ailly Wood, if this was not done on the first day (see pp. 42-52).
Notice, in succession, on the left, the ruins of Loupmont Village, 1,500 yards from the road; Montsec, further north, dominating the whole district; and Vargévaux Pond, near the road.
Follow G.C.D. 1 bis, to Bouconville. Enter the village, leaving the fine Girondel Pond on the right.
The 13th-14th century Church of Bouconville with its three naves is very curious.
In the cemetery are numerous French graves.
The front line, after passing south of Apremont, continued first to the right of the Bouconville road, then crossed the road to the west of Vargévaux Pond, making a bend to include the latter within the French lines, as also the village of Xivray, which was the junction of the French armies with the American divisions. It then passed through the hamlet of Seicheprey, and at Flirey rejoined the main road leading to Pont-à-Mousson.
Keep along the road towards Rambucourt.
A little before this village, N. 58 is picked up again. All the way the road is camouflaged and bordered by numerous trenches. Rambucourt was badly damaged. Numerous shelters were made along the road against the houses, the basements of which were occupied.
After passing through Rambucourt, N. 58 leads to Beaumont (in ruins).
Notice the shelters in the houses. The curious church suffered badly (photo, p. 74).
Four hundred yards beyond Beaumont, leave the National road and take the Seicheprey road on the left.
Trenches, shelters and gun emplacements are met with, especially in a hollow on the left. Seicheprey is next reached.
This village was the scene of one of the first successes of the American Army. The Germans had taken it by surprise in April, 1918, and had kept it for some time, when it was retaken by the 26th (New England) Division.
Part of the belfry of the 12th century church is still standing (photo above).
Near the church the road bends to the right and goes towards St. Baussant. Half a mile further on the French and German first line trenches are crossed. On entering St. Baussant, notice in a house on the right in front of the stream a large machine-gun blockhouse in concrete. The loopholes are on a level with the roof.
St. Baussant is almost entirely in ruins. To the right, on the hill, stood the old château, of which only a few broken walls are left.
This village, being an important road junction, had been strongly fortified by the Germans. It is one of the places where the American tanks performed wonders, taking the position in less than half an hour.
The last house of the village, at the I.C. 13 crossing, on the right, bears the inscription “Café Hocquard.” Here are three large concrete shelters, the walls of which are five feet thick. At the fork in the road is a machine-gun blockhouse in concrete.
Take I.C. 13 to the left, which follows the Rupt-de-Mad stream and becomes G.C. 33 on reaching Lahayville. 1,600 yards beyond this village (greatly damaged), leave G.C. 33 and take I.C. 19 to the right. After crossing the bridge over the Rupt-de-Mad, Richecourt, razed to the ground, is reached (photo above).
Near a house on the left, at the end of the village, is a German concrete shelter with the inscription “Pommernburg.” Other shelters of less importance are to be seen among the ruins.
Follow I.C. 19 as far as Montsec (3 km.).
The village of Montsec is at the foot of the hill; it was badly damaged.
Montsec Ridge, or Hill 380, made a first-class observation-post for the Germans, as it dominates the whole district from Apremont to Flirey.
Montsec was the scene of the fiercest fighting on June 17, 1916. The French were unable to take it on account of its formidable defences. From that time no surprise-attacks took place in this district.
On the crest, the Germans had constructed a system of tunnels, the entries of which overlooked the region of Heudicourt-Buxières, and at the end of which chimneys over 30 feet in height opened in the summit of the hill. The observers climbed up the chimneys by means of ladders and directed the firing of the artillery, which was massed in the surrounding woods.
The system of trenches and shelters was remarkable. In some places the shelters were furnished with electric light.
To visit the military works of Montsec, go beyond the village along I.C. 19 and stop at the last houses on the left, where there is an enormous concrete shelter, which served as an artillery telephone exchange, (photo, p. 78). A narrow road leads from this shelter to the entrances of the tunnels on the crest. (Time required to visit: one hour.)
After visiting Montsec return to St. Baussant by the same roads (I.C. 19 to Richecourt, then G.C. 33 and I.C. 13).
Follow I.C. 13 beyond St. Baussant to Maizerais (completely ruined), seen on the left of the road, and Essey on the Rupt-de-Mad stream.
From December, 1916, the village of Essey was close to the front, and occupied by the Germans. The inhabitants and mayor remained during the occupation, but were forbidden, on pain of death, to go more than a short distance from their homes.
In the village, at the corner of the Rue Béquille and the Grand Rue, is a concrete blockhouse.
The church was partly destroyed. On its north front, protected by the church belfry, were the Kommandantur’s quarters—an important concrete construction with walls five feet thick.
After visiting Essey, take D. 3, which passes in front of the church, and follow it towards Flirey.
To the right and left are numerous shelters. Turn to the right alongside Sonnard Wood, beside which, 50 yards from the road, are an American cemetery and, on the left, Mort-Mare Wood.
Mort-Mare Wood is famous for the terrible struggles that took place for its possession.
It was while reconnoitring over this wood in an aeroplane that Senator Reymond was killed on October 22, 1914. He was returning from a flight over Mars-la-Tour, Chambley and Thiaucourt, with Pilot Adjutant Clamadieu, and the machine was turning to the right of the southern edge of the wood, when it was seen descending, apparently normally, between the French and German lines. Machine-guns at once opened fire; the Adjutant was killed and Senator Reymond wounded. The French came out of their trenches and a fierce struggle, which lasted until night, took place round the machine. Only then was Reymond able to crawl into the lines, while the French carried back the body of the Adjutant.
Reymond was taken to the hospital at Toul, and was able, before he died, to give an exact account of the mission in the fulfilment of which he had met such a glorious end.
On reaching the crest, the road crosses the old German first lines (concrete blockhouses). Flirey next comes into sight.
This village, which formed part of the first French lines from 1914, is almost completely in ruins, while the whole country around is laid waste.
On the right are seen the ruins of Toul-Thiaucourt railway bridge.
Half a mile from the village, keep along D. 3, to visit the famous Flirey Quarry, where there are numerous shelters and French graves. The surrounding woods contain the emplacements of several batteries.
Return to Flirey and take, on the right, N. 58 towards Pont-à-Mousson.
One kilometre from Flirey, at the top of the crest, on the right, is a military cemetery. The road runs parallel with the old French first lines, which followed the crest on the left.
At the entrance to Limey, through which N. 58 runs, there is a large French cemetery on the left.
The village of Limey, famous for the hard and bloody battles fought there in September, 1914, is in ruins. The west front of the church was torn open. Numerous shelters are seen, two of them, in cement, being very large; the first, in the middle of the village on the right of the main road; the other, a machine-gun blockhouse, in the last house on the right.
Beyond Limey the road crosses a vast wooded district, known as La Haye, which covers the whole plateau.
Two and a half kilometres from Limey, on the left side of the road, a place called Fond-des-Vaux contains numerous French shelters (several in concrete), and also a military cemetery. This is Lampe Camp.
Three hundred yards further along the road there are American graves to the right.
The Inn of St. Pierre is next reached, from which D. 15 leaves to the left towards Thiaucourt. Take this road.
Throughout the war St. Pierre Inn, which is at the entrance to Prêtre Wood, was the nearest dressing station to the front. The buildings suffered little, thanks to the sheltering forest. Prêtre Wood will be visited on leaving Pont-à-Mousson.
Eight hundred yards from the inn, to the right of D. 15, the Fey-en-Haye road debouches. This road is not available for motors. A visit to the village is interesting, as it was in the first French lines (distance there and back, 3 km.).
Fey-en-Haye is about 100 yards from the western edge of Prêtre Wood. At the end of September, 1914, a bloody engagement took place there. Up to the end of March, 1915, this unfortunate village was continuously bombarded, and it was entirely demolished when, on April 2, 1915, it was taken by a French battalion (169th Infantry). Its capture was the prelude to the last series of attacks which, after seven months of terrific fighting, ended on May 31, in the capture of Prêtre Wood.
Fey-en-Haye is now merely a heap of ruins. A number of trenches run through it, and a few shelters still exist.
After coming back to D. 15, continue along it as far as Regniéville, a village of which nothing remains but part of the belfry of the church (photo, p. 85).
For a long time Regniéville was the advance-post of the French line between Mort-Mare Wood, on the left, and Prêtre Wood, on the right. At the beginning of April, 1915, the French advance was especially dangerous for the enemy, whose counter-attacks became more frequent. It was evident that the slightest advance in the direction of Thiaucourt would hamper the German communications between Metz and St. Mihiel, and would hinder the revictualling of the troops as well as the steady supply of reinforcements and munitions. That is why, on April 9, the Germans made fifteen successive attacks to drive the French from their trenches and the edge of Mort-Mare Wood.
Keep on towards Thiaucourt. To the left of D. 15 there is an American cemetery (photo below), 500 yards from Regniéville. 1 km. further on, fifty yards from the road, and before entering Four Wood, lies a derelict Renault tank (photo above), and beside it the graves of its drivers. In the Wood are numerous German gun emplacements.
On reaching the crest (Hill 340), on the right, alongside Saules Wood, are two German gun shelters.
Further on, at the “milestone” 4 km. from Thiaucourt, is a concrete blockhouse (photo below).
From I.C. 13, D. 15 descends in a large bend across Heiche Wood.
One kilometre from Thiaucourt, in a ravine on the right of D. 15, there stood a large railway station and an important German military depot. On the other side of the road there is a German cemetery containing 600 graves.
Thiaucourt, altitude 750 feet, stands in an amphitheatre, in the centre of a loop described by the Rupt-de-Mad stream.
A large number of its houses are in ruins, especially on the banks of the Rupt.
Thiaucourt was a rest-camp behind the German lines. Numerous huts were erected on the banks of the stream, many vestiges of which still remain.
After crossing the Rupt-de-Mad in Thiaucourt, keep along the street which continues the bridge and rises to the end of the town. On the right, towards the last of the houses, is I.C. 13, leading to Jaulny.
Recross the Rupt-de-Mad at the entrance to Jaulny. Take to the left, along the river, the road running through the village, many of whose houses were damaged by shells.
On leaving Jaulny there is a large German cemetery on the right.
I.C. 13 runs through a pretty valley, alongside the Rupt-de-Mad and passes near the railway station. The old road having been destroyed by the explosion of a German ammunition train, a new road enables the tourist, by crossing the river, to reach the village of Rembercourt on the left bank. The bridge was blown up and many of the houses are in ruins.
I.C. 13, which continues alongside the Rupt-de-Mad as far as the Moselle, is next reached. This road is extremely picturesque.
Leaving Villecey-sur-Mad, slightly damaged, on the right, go towards Onville. Three hundred yards this side of the village, to the left of I.C. 13, is a large German cemetery. The village, on which a few shells fell, contains a fine church.
Vandelainville, which is the continuation of Onville, contains several houses damaged by the bombardments.
Passing through the villages of Bayonville and Arnaville, N. 52 bis, which runs along the left bank of the Moselle, and which take to the right in the direction of Pagny-sur-Moselle.
This village, also called Pagny-sous-Prény, from the name of the hamlet and château which dominates the surrounding country, was for forty-eight years the Custom House, being the last French railway station before the frontier.
Prény Château, the ruins of which are visible from here, was one of the most famous castles of the Middle Ages. Built by the Dukes of Lorraine, it was dismantled by Richelieu. It formed a square flanked by high, strong towers connected with one another by walls and subterranean passages hollowed out of the rock. At one end there was a second building, also surrounded by moats and flanked by towers, in one of which was the famous “Mande-Guerre” bell. The keep with the chapel and living-rooms stood there.
Pagny suffered severely, most of the houses being in ruins.
The road turns to the left into the valley, then to the right beyond the church, which is left on the right.
Just outside Pagny-sur-Moselle the Germans built a concrete barrier across the road to stop the tanks.
About 500 yards from Pagny, near the bridge over Mouton stream, is a machine-gun blockhouse in concrete on the right.
N. 52 bis next passes through Vandières, which was burnt down by the Germans during their retreat of September 16. All the houses along the road, especially those on the left, are in ruins.
Five kilometres further on, after crossing the railway, Pont-à-Mousson is entered by the Rue du Port, Place Colombe and Rue St. Laurent; the latter brings the tourist to the Grand Place or Place Duroc.
Pont-à-Mousson — Origin and Chief Historical Events
Pont-à-Mousson is an old town, in whose archives are found deeds dating back to 896 and 905. At that time it was called “Villa Pontus sub castro Montionis” (The Town of the Bridge under the Castle of Monçon).
In the 16th century there was a long controversy between the professors of the University and those of the Jesuit College as to whether the town (“Pont”) or the castle (“Monçon” or “Mousson”) should have precedence, i.e. if one should say “Ponti Mussum” or “Mussi Pontum.” The dispute was settled and the name “Ponti Mussum” (Pont-à-Mousson) decreed by Duke Charles III. Nevertheless, the inhabitants still insist on calling themselves “Mussipontins.”
Renaud I., Count of Bar, living a retired life in his château of Mousson, founded near the town in 1106 a priory dedicated to St. Michel, which he gave to the Abbey of St. Mihiel. In 1239 the “Messins” (inhabitants of Metz) broke down the bridge to prevent the Count of Bar communicating with his castle, but three years later they joined the Count of Bar against Duke Mathieu who, in revenge, burned down the little town of Pont.
Enfranchised in 1263 by Count Thiébaut II., Pont-à-Mousson was raised to a marquisate in 1355 by Emperor Charles IV., and, in 1356, was granted the rights and privileges of an imperial town.
Charles-the-Bold took possession of it in 1476, but it was retaken later by Duke René. However, the defection of his Swiss troops forced him to surrender it again to the Duke of Burgundy.
What made the glory and prosperity of the town was the foundation of a University in 1572. The influx of students and the renown of the professors made Pont-à-Mousson famous until 1763, when the University was transferred to Nancy.
Although an open town, Pont-à-Mousson was violently bombarded by the Germans as early as August 11, 1914. After a short occupation the town was liberated by the French on September 13, 1914. The bombardments were resumed and lasted till the end of the war.
As to the part played by Pont-à-Mousson in the Battle for the Grand Couronné Heights, see the Michelin Guide, “Nancy and the Grand Couronné.”
| Arbitrary Signs | |
| A.—Church of St. Laurent. | 3.—Place Duroc. |
| B.—Church of St. Martin. | 4.—Rue de l’Union. |
| C.—Lesser Seminary. | 5.—Rue Gambetta. |
| H.—Hôtel-de-Ville. | 6.—Rue St. Martin. |
| 7.—Rue Victor Hugo. | |
| 1.—Rue du Port. | 8.—Place Thiers. |
| 2.—Rue St. Laurent. | 9.—Avenue Carnot. |
A Visit to Pont-à-Mousson
Starting-point: Place Duroc (or Grand Place), in which stands the Hôtel-de-Ville.
Place Duroc, with its irregular arcades and Renaissance houses, presents a very characteristic appearance.
Visit first the “House of the Seven Capital Sins,” decorated with caryatids. At the bottom of a court there is a fine bas-relief representing The Conversion of St. Paul.
A little further on is the Maison Leguy, recognisable by its hexagonal turret, which rests on one of the corner pillars of the arcades. Tradition attributes its construction to the Templars, and says that a subterranean passage led from it across the Moselle and up to Mousson.
The turret is at the corner of Rue Victor Hugo, which take to see, in the Rue de l’Union (first street on the left), two curious doors at Nos. 6 and 8.
Return to Place Duroc, turn to the left into Rue St. Laurent and see, in the court of No. 9, a fine gallery delicately carved in Renaissance style (slightly damaged by the bombardment); at No. 11, a handsome façade with a charming court, an old well, the railing of the old terrace, a spiral staircase and timbered ceilings; at No. 19, the façade, door and entrance.
Opposite No. 19 is the Church of St. Laurent; it was slightly damaged, the roof being pierced by shells in several places.
This church, frequently restored, offers no particular interest.
Inside there is a reredos in the form of a triptych, which came from the neighbouring Convent of the Poor Claires at Pont-à-Mousson. This work is by “Georgin le painctre,” and dates from the 16th century.
It represents: the Baptism of Christ, the Resurrection of Lazarus, the Healing of the Blind at the Pool, and the Burial of Christ.
The Chapel of Our Lady of Pity contains a celebrated “Christ carrying the Cross” by Ligier Richier. (See note, p. 56, regarding this famous sculptor’s works.)
Return to the Place Duroc, take the street leading to the bridge, which comes out opposite the “House of the Seven Capital Sins.” The fine stone bridge was partly destroyed. A temporary footway, however, makes it possible to cross the Moselle here and reach the Rue Gambetta.
On the left, at the corner of Rue St. Martin, stands the greatly damaged Church of St. Martin. All the stained-glass windows were destroyed. Several shells pierced the walls and roof.
The Church of St. Martin (Hist. Mon.) is the old church of the Antonists, and was built in 1474.
The very narrow façade is in florid pointed style. The interior of the church has undergone numerous unfortunate restorations. In the aisles are: on the left, the funeral statues of a 14th century knight and his wife; on the right, the tomb of Esther of Apremont, with her coat of arms (1592), and a particularly interesting late 16th century sepulchre (see photos, p. 94).
A triforium runs round the nave, and the tribune is closed by a fine open-work gallery dating from the end of the 16th century. Unfortunately, the choir is disfigured by a facing of marble which conceals the frescoes that decorated the walls.
Beside the church, in the Rue St. Martin, is the Petit Séminaire, housed in the sumptuous Abbey of the Premonstrants, dating from the early part of the 18th century.
It was very seriously damaged by the bombardments. The chapel and its façade, the parlour, in very outlined rock-work style, splendid staircases, large cloisters and, above all, the famous wood-carvings in the library, were especially noteworthy.
Mousson
To reach Mousson, proceed to the end of the Rue Gambetta, in the opposite direction to the Moselle.
Leave the car at the entrance to the Avenue de Metz (on the left) and walk up the hollow road (opposite the Rue Gambetta), which skirts the cemetery. (Time required: half an hour.)
Along this road artillery batteries were posted, the emplacements of which may still be seen.
Take a glance at the cemetery, where a number of graves have been destroyed.
The village of Mousson is at the top of a hill where there have been successively: a Roman camp, an Austrasian fortress and, in the 10th century, the château of the Countess Sophie de Bar, reduced to ruins by Richelieu.
The fortifications consist of a first line covering the village, and a second surrounding the château. The houses thus form a semicircle between the two ramparts.
The village was greatly damaged during the war. Most of the houses are in ruins. Some of them had tricusped windows and curious 15th and 16th century doors.
Skirt the ancient Chapel of the Templars to reach the terrace of the old château.
All that remains of the château is the central chapel (11th-12th century) (Hist. Mon.), which was unhappily enlarged about 1895, and to which a battlemented tower surmounted by a gilt statue of Joan-of-Arc was added.
The chapel (Hist. Mon.), with a semicircular vaulted roof on curious pillars, contains fine baptismal fonts (1085) decorated with sculptures.
These fonts, resembling the curb-stone of a well, are decorated with bas-reliefs representing: John the Baptist preaching repentance to publicans and soldiers who came to him in the wilderness; John baptizing two naked Jews immersed in a cistern; John baptizing Jesus Christ, plunged up to the waist in the waters of Jordan.
On the terrace are numerous trenches, in addition to shafts dug by the engineers to reach the underground passages which communicate with concrete shelters. One of these shelters may still be seen along the southern ramparts of the old château. All these military works are very interesting to visit.
There is a splendid panorama from this terrace: on one side (photo, pp. 100 and 101) the town of Pont-à-Mousson and the valley of the Moselle with, behind Pont-à-Mousson, Puvenelle Forest and Prêtre Wood; on the other side, the valley of the Seille, with Metz Cathedral in the distance. To the south-east is seen the Grand Couronné.
Mousson was a first-rate observation-post for the French gunners, which explains the fortifications that were erected there during the war.
A Visit to Prêtre Wood
A.—From Pont-à-Mousson to the Croix des Carmes, via Montauville, returning to Pont-à-Mousson
The Fighting in Prêtre Wood
Prêtre Wood dominates all the southern part of the Plain of Woëvre (altitude: 1,200 feet).
From October, 1914, to May, 1915, it was the scene of a continual struggle, at the end of which the wood remained in the hands of the French.
It was in September, 1914, that the Germans installed themselves in Prêtre Wood, which they at once fortified with barbed wire, chevaux-de-frise, etc.
On September 30, 1914, the French obtained a footing in the south-western edges of the forest. A month later (October 29) they captured a German post in the south-eastern salient. Their efforts were next concentrated on Père Hilarion Ravine, which they gradually occupied after many fights in the rain and snow of November and December.
Their troops advanced by short rushes as far as the principal line, which had to be taken by a direct attack. First, artillery was brought up by night to prepare the attack. Sappers, by long and patient sapping, blew up the minor defences and penetrated the blockhouses. The adversaries were at times less than a hundred yards apart.
From January, 1915, the French operations were directed against the western portion, towards Quart-en-Réserve and Croix des Carmes Hill. Four lines of trenches bristling with machine-guns and defences held up the attack. The ground had to be taken bit by bit, and often a counter-attack would win back in the evening the gains of several days’ hard fighting. The first line was carried on January 17, and the second on February 16. At this point aerial torpedoes and hand grenades caused progress to slow down. The third line was captured on March 30. Attacks and counter-attacks followed. Fighting with hand grenades took place in the communicating trenches, behind barrages, and the artillery on both sides covered this narrow strip of ground with projectiles, breaking down the parapets and destroying the communicating trenches. The Germans, who lost heavily, brought up endless reinforcements—in all about sixteen battalions—thus showing the importance which they attached to this position.
The final attack was launched on May 12. The French carried the blockhouses and the northern slopes beyond the crest, but the enemy still clung to the eastern and western slopes. However, the wood was won, and the splendid observation-post which the hill afforded was thenceforth in the hands of the French.
In the little cemetery on the hillside hundreds of heroes sleep their last sleep.
The slopes near the road throughout this district are one vast cemetery, while the wood proper hides beneath its soil hundreds of dead entombed by the explosion of mines or the falling-in of trenches.
This wood of tragic memories was called by the Germans “The Wood of Death,” or “The Widows’ Wood.”
Leave Pont-à-Mousson by Avenue Carnot, cross the railway (l.c.), leaving N.57 on the left (which follows the railway towards Nancy) and continue along N.58 to Montauville, 2 km. from Pont-à-Mousson.
This village did not suffer much. On entering, there are several large concrete machine-gun blockhouses on the right.
The nearest dressing station was at Montauville, in the cellar of a ruined house. First aid was given in the trenches or in the little hut near the big oak tree. From Montauville the wounded were taken in motors to Pont-à-Mousson. There was a constant procession of ambulances, stretcher-bearers and hospital attendants on the road.
Beyond a knoll opposite the church of Montauville, take on the right a downhill road which turns sharply and leads to the village cemetery. Here the road forks. Take the road on the left, which first dips and then a little further on rises in the direction of Prêtre Wood. This road is in bad condition, but in dry weather motors can go as far as the entrance to the wood.
About 800 yards from the cemetery the road branches, that on the left going to Fey-en-Haye. Take the road on the right, which soon leads to Prêtre Wood.
On the right, at the roadside, about 1,200 yards from the fork, are two graves: one of an American, the other of a French soldier.
Three hundred yards further on, in a ravine to the right of the road, are the fountain and house of Father Hilarion. All around are numerous trenches, shelters and military works of all kinds.
Père Hilarion fountain remained for some time between the opposing lines. Germans and French alike came there every day to draw water, and by a tacit understanding each side came at the definite hour. During this respite no shot was fired from the trenches.
Follow the road (leaving on the right a steep uphill road, 150 yards from the fountain) which for 800 yards, down a gentle slope, crosses the part of the wood called the “Mouchoir” and “Croix des Carmes” Sector. This formed the first Franco-German lines.
The sight is a moving one: destroyed trees, the ground torn up by shells, trenches fallen in and battered shelters.
When the road reaches the crest, look back. The sight is more tragic still. In the distance is seen Mousson Crest, which stands out above the trees of Prêtre Wood and, to the right, on a small hill, 100 yards from the road, the site of the famous “Croix des Carmes.”
When the position was taken by the French, sappers of the Engineers Corps piously removed the cross from its place and carried it to the cemetery in the valley where the heroes of these battles lie buried. There they erected it, and surrounded it with some of the barbed wire from the late German trenches.
Return to Montauville, then to Pont-à-Mousson by the same road.
Second Day (Continued)
B.—PONT-À-MOUSSON TO METZ
From Pont-à-Mousson to Norroy and Hill 372
At Pont-à-Mousson, on returning from Montauville, cross the railway (l.c.), take Avenue Carnot, then Rue Victor Hugo to Place Duroc. Turn to the left into Rue St. Laurent, which leads to N. 52 bis.
Follow the latter 3 km. to a narrow road on the left leading to Norroy. Cross the village to the Place de l’Eglise. Leave the church on the right and keep along the road which rises sharply towards the crest of Hill 372. The entrance to Prêtre Wood, on the German side, is here.
On this crest several fortified quarries served as shelters for the guns. In the wood are a number of concrete shelters, trenches and observation-posts, one of which, cupola-shaped, is well worth a visit.
Return to Norroy, then, in front of the church, take on the left the road towards Villers-sous-Prény, which winds round Hill 372.
On leaving Norroy, the road rises sharply, then zigzags down the side of Hill 372. One kilometre from Norroy, and 100 yards to the left of the road, is a veritable village of concrete and stone, built in a quarry by the Germans, with shelters in the rock more than thirty feet deep. It served as a Post of Commandment, and was fitted with a telephone exchange which directed the artillery-fire in the Prêtre Wood sector.
The road continues to descend to Villers-sous-Prény (2 km.). There is a German cemetery on the left, before entering the village, many houses of which are in ruins.
At Villers take I. C. 13 on the right to Vandières (3 km.), where N. 52 bis is joined. Take same on the left to Metz.
This road, which runs alongside the Moselle, is picturesque, but in bad condition, especially between Arnaville and Metz. (N. 57 from Pont-à-Mousson to Metz, on the right bank of the Moselle, is in much better condition, but less picturesque.)
The road passes through Pagny-sur-Moselle (see p. 109).
The valley of the Moselle becomes prettier and prettier; varied scenery, picturesque landscapes and villages nestling in the sides of the hills. The road turns to the left and crosses the Rupt-de-Mad stream at Arnaville—the last village on the frontier since 1870, and the boundary of the old “département” of the Meuse.
It next passes through Novéant, where for a long time the German customhouse was installed. The village contains a château; in the church there is a carved ivory figure of Christ.
After passing through Dornot and Ancy, the tourist soon reaches Ars-sur-Moselle.
The name “Ars” (Arches) is derived from the arcades of the Roman aqueduct, the imposing remains of which are still to be seen. Known locally as the “Devil’s Bridge,” it extended as far as the village of Jouy on the right bank of the Moselle, and served to bring water to the baths and swimming-pool of the amphitheatre of the ancient Divodurum (Metz). It was 3,240 feet long, and 50 feet high. The church, burned down in 1807, was rebuilt in 1816 on the site of an ancient Roman fortress. Ars contains important ironworks and a paper factory.
Moulins and Longville are next passed, after which Metz is entered by France Gate. Take the Rue de Paris, Ponts des Morts, Rue du Pont des Morts, Pont Moyen, Rue St. Marie, Rue du Faisan, Place de Chambre, then Rue d’Estrées on the right, to Place d’Armes, in which stands the Cathedral.