Extracts From Mr. Davidson’s Letters
The following extracts are given with the view of explaining some allusions made in the Journal.
In a letter to Mr. G. D———d, Mr. Davidson says, “after endeavouring to enter Africa in forma pauperis, I tried another tack, and got up a staff of six officers in field-day regimentals, and embarking in a brig of war the ‘Jasséen,’ landed at Tangier under a salute of eleven guns. This stamped me at once as a great man; and though I have been somewhat accustomed to such kind of greatness, I find it not very pleasant here, for I have Messúd, my Jewish interpreter, and Ben Hayed, my Moorish interpreter, and I can hardly stir without both being on the alert, the one watching my mouth, the other my eye.”
Speaking of the feelings of the natives towards a foreigner he says, “the people here are worse than any I have yet seen; they hate me because I am a Christian, although they are ready to praise me for my kindness to Abú, who is half-anxious and half afraid to proceed. His health is bad and spirits worse, and his powers quite unequal to what we shall have to go through. We certainly run some risk: I am very careful what he eats, and much fear that the threats thrown out against his getting back will prove too true. As for myself, I pass the time in riding with the Taurick, chatting with the Jews, and taking snuff with the Moors.”
Speaking of the Mona he observes, “I had to pay for a sheep, fowls, eggs, bread, and preserves, but being neither butcher, poulterer, baker or confectioner, the things were of little use to me. They call the present Mona, which may mean Manna; and as these vagabonds call themselves the image of God upon earth, they think it enough if they give only food.”
In allusion to the Lob el Barool he says, “It is literally ‘the game of smoke,’ and played by soldiers on horseback, who fire off their guns with only blank cartridges; but sometimes they put in a ball, which is sure to strike, of course by mere accident, a Christian.”
With regard to the ruins near the outset, Mr. D. seems to think they are Druidical, and he compares them with the remains of Stonehenge in Wiltshire.
Speaking of his medical life in Africa, he says, “all whom I cure come to be paid for allowing me to improve myself in my profession, and demand a piece of coin for every dose they have been taking; while those I fail to cure abuse me for want of skill, and threaten to shorten my life for not prolonging theirs.”
The allusion to the electrical horse will be best explained by the following letter, written by Mr. D. to Professor Faraday, and by whom it was read at the Royal Institution.
“The great interest you take in all matters relating to electricity, and the great advantages which have resulted from your researches in that science, induce me to call your attention to a circumstance, perhaps not new to you, but which has recently fallen under my own observation. I received from the Sultan of Marocco the present of a horse of a peculiar breed, and as every person in this country is his own groom, I observed a peculiar tingling sensation in the hand on dressing the neck of the animal; this I attributed at first to the dirt and vermin with which the poor animals here are infested, and then thought no more of it. On leaving Marocco I proceeded towards the Atlas; and whenever I had occasion to consult my compass I found it extremely difficult, nay, impossible to keep it steady. I supposed this was owing to my sword and pistol; but as I wore these, when walking, without observing the same deflection, I dismounted, and holding the compass, I still perceived the same effect as long as I held it near the horse’s head; but when I left the animal, and put the instrument on the ground, the needle settled to its point. After a little reflection, the effect produced on my hand by rubbing the horse’s neck on the near side occurred to me; when repeating the experiment, I could perceive several distinct intimations of the same tingling sensation. We proceeded to our halt; and as soon as the party had sat down to their evening meal, I began to examine into the matter more closely. It was now dusk; on passing my hand down the neck, not only could I hear distinctly the electrical detonation, but perceive a quantity of sparks; both were such as would be produced by rubbing the large plate machine at the Royal Institution. Thinking the effect might still have been produced by animalculæ, and intending to visit the following day the ruins of Trassermant, I ordered the horse to be well washed in the morning. On pouring water over his neck, I found a peculiar spasmodic action produced, which did not take place when it was poured upon any other part of the body, not even on the off-side of the neck, on which fell the mane. Ascending the lower part of the mountain chain toward the snow, the effect was scarcely visible; but on returning to the valley, it was considerably increased, and especially after the animal had been well washed and dried. Approaching the sea, it became more powerful, and at Mogadór I got several persons to witness the phenomenon. I was here told by the kaid, who had accompanied me from Marocco, to take great care of the animal; that there were very few of them in the country, and that the Sultán seldom gave them away; that it was not only a horse of high blood but of fire, and it would never tire. It has done a great deal of hard work, and fully bears out the character given of him. I have moreover observed, on touching him with the spur, or when he is excited by the firing of a gun, or the sight of other horses, that a violent action is produced on this side of the neck. Upon entering the desert, the effect nearly disappeared, and at the same time a great portion of his courage, although he continued to do his work well. The difference may, however, be owing to the great change from an abundant to a spare diet, and to his sympathising with his master by shewing more bone than flesh, as our meals are reduced to one a-day. Can the colour have any thing to do with it? He is golden dun, with a black mane and tail. I have seen but three of the same hue, two in the stables of the Sultán, and the third in the possession of the Sheïkh of Stuka; but I could not obtain permission to examine them. I am very anxious to send him to England; but I fear it will be impossible, as the whole of the persons in power in Marocco are so incensed against me for having eluded their vigilance, and succeeded in getting out of the empire upon the direct track of the gold district, that I am told that no favour would now be granted, and that if I come back, I shall rue what I have done in passing to this place. The road is now open to me: my intention is not to follow the caravan route, but to proceed with a small escort and a few camels by the road the couriers take, and thus obtain a new line and bearing to establish the position of Tumbuktú. I had made a collection for the Royal Institution of some mineralogical and fossil specimens; amongst which were many of copper, antimony and lead, and what they here call brass (nhas asfer). The last was obtained, but with difficulty, for Professor Berzelius, at the request of the consul-general at Tangiers. But having to lighten my baggage, when passing through Lower Suse, the mule-load of stones had to be sent away, with a promise that they should be forwarded to Mogadór. They were addressed to yourself, with a request to send the duplicates to the professor at Stockholm. I fear much they will never reach you, as a Berber told me the people will be sure to think they contain gold, and they will all be sent to the furnace.”
It appears, however, by a letter to Mr. Drummond Hay, that Sheïkh Alí subsequently told Mr. Davidson, that finding they were only stones, he, the Sheïkh, had thrown them away, but had kept the baskets.
In allusion to the project of making Agadeer the port for sending goods into the interior of Africa, he says, that the people there asserted that the story circulated of the insecure state of property in that country was unfounded; that such reports were spread by the people of Mogadór, who feared that foreigners would come and settle there, if it was thought that trade could be carried on with Suse better by that route than the old one. It was this very dread of the trade being directed into a new channel, that seems to have thrown such impediments in the way of Mr. D.’s journey to Tumbuktú.
Footnotes
1This was the agent of the Emperor of Morocco, then residing, as a merchant, at Gibraltar. He died lately, leaving a fortune of 3,000,000 dollars.
2The opposition of Mr. Hay arose from his fears of the perilous nature of Mr. Davidson’s enterprize, and his unwillingness, therefore, to take upon himself any responsibility. This is distinctly shewn by Mr. Hay’s letter, given in the Appendix.
3This is the name of a vessel whose arrival is noted on Nov. 8. It had probably carried Mr. Hay from Gibraltar to Tangier, and then returned for the purpose of conveying Mr. Hay’s son thither, on his arrival from England.
4This is the Moorish name for a market-place.
5Fantasia is said of a fair intended for pleasure only, and not for business.
6This is the name of the highest hill in the Mexican Cordillera of the Andes.
7Lálá is Lady in Arabic, and r is sometimes substituted for l.
8So in the MS.
9This is a Persian word for a present, and, though common in Turkey, not used in Morocco.
10This is a kind of a tilt, where one party endeavours to unhorse the other.
11Who the Doctor was is not told by Mr. D.
12This is the name of a province of Morocco. Two of the Ríf guns were sent to London and are in the possession of Mr. D.’s brother.
13Persons attached to a mosque, whose business is to call the faithful to prayers. The word is pronounced Mu-edkdhin by the Arabs, and Mu-ezzin by the Turks, Persians, and Indians.
14This was a place so called by its modern name: its former one was Emsórah, as stated a little farther on. It is properly Autád (pegs or stakes), but the Moors often confound t and th, which latter they generally pronounce ts. The long á has often the sound of é, and the final d becomes t.
15Adwár, or dawár; it is used to signify a village; it is properly a circular encampment.
16For Mesbrah or Musawwesah (sculptured).
17This is a dish of grain, rice, &c. prepared as food for the common people, which they eat in immense quantities. It appears to be not unlike the piláú, the favourite dish of the Turks.
18The following account cannot fail to strike those who have seen or heard of the circles at Stonehenge.
19Mr. D. seems to allude here to a similar tradition in some part of Ireland.
20Adwárátie, i.e. villages.
21Specimens of the ore were sent to the Royal Institution.
22Perhaps Mr. D. had in his mind the passage in Shakspeare, where Catherine says, “Asses were made to bear, and so shall you;” to which Petruchio replies, “Women were made to bear, and so shall you.”
23They are said to live chiefly on milk.
24These helmets and guns were sent to London, and are now in the possession of the brother of Mr. D.
25So in the MS.
26An Ardeb, equal to about 3½ bushels, is a common measure in Egypt; and as Mr. Davidson had travelled in that country, he might easily suppose they spoke of Ardebs, when he heard them mention Arrobas (Alrob’ah, a quart.)
27So, too, the French have lately discovered some Roman ruins at Setif in Africa. A triumphal arch, erected in honour of Caracalla, has been also found at Jemmílah, together with a Roman causeway, that unites those two places.—See Times, Feb. 4, 1839.
28Wád el Áyéshah (the cheering river) is crossed before the traveller reaches Fahs-el-ríhán. See map (Geogr. Journ. i. 124.)
29During the Ramadán, the Muselmán takes nothing between sun-rise and sun-set; but afterwards makes up for his abstinence by eating voraciously.
30This will be understood by comparing the dates of the three preceding days.
31The last Chapter in the Korán.
32Called Mináreh, or Mináret, by Persians, Turks, and Eastern Arabs.
33Market-place.
34The Millah is the part of a Moorish town where the Jews reside.
35It is probable that, as the news of Mr. D.’s journey to Morocco had preceded him, the chief, who met him on this occasion, had, like many others, come with the view of extorting a present in return for the civility shown to an English traveller.
36This is probably a Moorish expression, to denote a trifling present.
37So in the map; in the MS. ‘Sheivra or Sheraga.’
38In the map, ‘Mansoría.’
39For Ahmed a transposition of letters common among the Moors, who say Embárek, for Mobárek; Imhammed for Mohammed, &c.
40All travellers in Morocco agree in stating that Christians are held there in the greatest detestation; nor could the Moors understand the motives that led Mr. D. to act the kindly part he did towards Abú, who had been at once a Musulman, a negro, and a slave.
41“Azammór of Sheïkh Shu’eïb,” says Abú-l-Fedá in his Geography of Africa, page 4.
42Properly Mazíghan.
43Marking the direction of Mecca, to which the Muselmán must turn when praying.
44This is the Spanish and Moorish word for a light-house, lantern, or watch-tower.
45So in MS. Mr. D. seems to have again lost his reckoning.
46So in MS.
47Here is a blank in the manuscript; most probably the garden of Reduan. See plan of the city of Marocco in London Geographical Journal, vol. i.
48So in MS.
49So in the MS.
50Pieces of the Korán are used by the Moorish doctors as charms—a superstition that Mr. D. probably adopted to humour his patients, but which the minister was surprised to find an English physician resorting to. Knowing how acceptable verses from the Korán are to Mussulmans, Mr. Davidson had a selection printed on slips of coloured paper before he left London.
51Mr. D. is here speaking metaphorically. He conceived that the Kaid of Mogador wished to get at his motive for visiting Timbuctoo; he therefore gave him no clue, by saying nothing on the subject. It is a slang metaphor.
52So in the original MS., with a blank.
53This was taken by the French during their attack on Algiers.
54Took a pill and a draught.
55These letters make the nearest approach to the marks in the MS.
56These are dresses worn by the Jewish priests; they were sent to London.
57So in the MS.
58These were two medicine chests sent to the Emperor of Morocco from London.
59Eunuch.
60So in MS. Mr. D. probably alluded to the black Towáshi.
61i.e. Writer.
62This dress was never received; nor is any further mention made of it in the letters.
63These are damascened in gold, and are now in England.
64So in MS.
65The number of feet is not given in the journal; but as this place was also visited in January 1830, by Mr. Drummond Hay and his party, who carried a good barometer with them, we know that it is elevated about 1,800 feet above the city of Marocco, and 3,000 feet above the sea. See London Geographical Journal, vol. i. p. 150.
66So in MS.
67Or Shulúh, the plural of Shilhah.
68Some specimens of these were sent to London.
69Capt. Washington, who went over this ground, says that the douars or adwars, here alluded to, are in reality villages with stone houses. Ed.
70These were presented at Mr. D.’s desire to the Royal Institution.
71That is, from leaving Tasremút.
72N.N.W.?
73This is called in some maps Imizmizi.
74Pronounced Hámet by the Moors, who frequently invert the first letters of names, and say Imhammet for Mohammed.
75Scoundrels.
76This was brought, in all likelihood, for purchase, as Mr. D. was very fond of all sorts of arms, and had sent many kinds of daggers to England.
77Elæodendron Argan, from the berries of which an oil much used in Marocco, is extracted.
78Mubárek.
79So in MS.
80Places in Africa have frequently two names—one Buber, and the other Arabic. (Zemima?)
81This is a kind of sham-fight, in which the parties charge each other at full gallop, and after firing their pistols at the horses’ feet wheel round. It is a favourite amusement with the Moors and Arabs.
82This place is called also Santa Cruz.
83The place of prayer, oratory.
84Name of Mohammedan Saints.
85First chapter of the Korán, used as the Lord’s Prayer is by Christians.
86This is a preparation of grain, or rather grits, and forms, like oatmeal in Scotland, the food of the common people in Súdán, where it is called Mogús.
87People of Sús.
88Caravan.
89This person was the agent to the Sheïkh of Wád Nún.
90His illness had commenced by his having had some of his ribs broken; to cure which, he had been hung up by his hands: but this had been carried too far.
91Friendship for thee!
92It is properly Núl, and was so named when the Arabs possessed Portugal: Queen Núnah is a modern invention.
93A good idea of the buildings is furnished by the annexed lithographic engraving.
94This was the name of the Sheïkh.
95This port was at the mouth of the river Darah, as stated afterwards.
96The letters in original MS. are written in such faint ink, that it is difficult to decypher them.
97So in MS.
98This office had been previously done by a Jewess, as stated a little farther on.
99He kept his promise. The gun is now in the possession of Mr. D.’s brother.
100This person is a constant traveller to Tumbuktú, and a very considerable merchant.
101This is the celebrated French traveller to Tumbuktú.
102Wind-bibbers, i.e. dromedaries. G. C. R.
103This is the Moorish name for a dagger, as already stated.
104Properly Murábit or Murábut, equivalent to Fakír or Dervísh, terms little used in Barbary. G. C. R.
105Tamar means date in Arabic. G. C. R.
106My prophet is Mahomet.
107Properly Maúlid, i.e. Mohammed’s birth-day kept on the 12th of Safer.
108This is the name of the horse of the desert, which is said to have been fed on camels’ milk. So too Xenophon, in his Anabasis, speaks of the ostriches in Mesopotamia, that are run down by fleet horses. Sháribu-r-ríh, pronounced Shérb by the Moors.
109This is probably done partly to allay the itching, and partly to prevent the matter from collecting in the nose; from whence it would discharge itself into the mouth, and passing from thence into the stomach produce a most horrible nausea.
110This is a cant phrase for going away; for it appears that Mr. D. was offended with him.
111Rághebát.
112The poisoned (samúm) wind of the desert.
113El Hamdo li-lláhi (praise be to God).
114Berbers.
115This is the Moorish name for a dagger.
116By S is probably meant Shade. The point at which the thermometer stood at one P.M. is omitted; because Mr. D. did not then think of noticing the difference between the sun and the shade.
117Because it was a proof of the Sheïkh’s want of hospitality, in compelling Mr. D. to purchase his food.
118Mr. D. perhaps meant to say, that Abú had no idea of the relative bearings of places.
119Genii spirits.
120This is the same engagement as that taken by Mohammed Múlid.
121Amongst the papers of Mr. D. was found the following description of the Simúm, written while it was passing:—“To describe the awful scourge of the desert defies all the powers of language. The pencil assisted by the pen might perhaps afford a faint idea of it. Winged with the whirlwind, and chariotted in thunder, it urged its fiery course, blasting all nature with its death-fraught breath. It was accompanied by a line of vivid light, that looked like a train of fire, whose murky smoke filled the whole wide expanse, and made its horrors only the more vivid. The eye of man, and voice of beast were both raised to heaven, and both then fell upon the earth. Against this sand-tempest, all the fortitude of man fails, and all his efforts are vain. To Providence alone must he look. It passed us, burying one of my camels. As soon as we rose from the earth, with uplifted hands to heaven for its preservation, we awoke to fresh horrors. Its parching tongue had lapped the water from our water-skins, and having escaped the fiery hour we had to fear the still more awful death from thirst.”
122Dagger.
123The Holy Book, i.e. the Pentateuch.
124Jewish Arabic, for Asháb, i.e. Companions, Plur. of Sáhib.
125Robbers.
126The spellings of several proper names in these Notes are very doubtful.