Ornamental Iron Work
XXVIII — Processes, Andirons, Fire Tools
The handling of wrought iron when making ornamental work often brings in, besides the usual smithing operations, the processes of embossing, impressing, engraving, etching, inlaying of copper or brass, grinding, and polishing. Embossing is done by heating the piece and raising the metal from the back into an iron above the surface.
Impressing is done by cutting an impression in an iron block and driving the metal into it.
Engraving consists of putting the design upon the iron with a diamond point chisel or any sharp tool, with the aid of a hammer. When the design is cut out by means of acid the process is called etching. It is done in this way: The surface to be etched is first covered with a layer of wax. The design to be left is scratched through the wax into the metal by using a very sharp tool. This lays bare the surface of the metal to be etched. The acid or etching fluid is then applied. When sufficiently etched the acid is removed from the surface of the metal by means of turpentine. This stops the action of the acid immediately.
Inlaying is hammering one metal into the surface of another. It is done by cutting a groove in the surface of one metal and hammering the other metal into this groove.
Impressing, engraving, etching, inlaying, etc., are used on fine pieces of ornamental work, such as door knockers, drawer pulls, door handles, sword blades, ornamental hinges, fire sets, etc., or on small pieces of work such as initials or coats of arms, etc.
Splitting of iron or soft steel: Splitting iron or soft steel is done for many pieces of work. All solid rings, rings without welds, handles for carrying ladles in foundries of all kinds are made in this way. Most of our ornamental work, where we require two pieces of iron running from a stem in opposite directions, calls for this process.
We are now going to make a pair of andirons. The process of splitting iron comes in with this problem.
Pair of andirons: It is always best to make a sketch of the large pieces of ornamental work to be made, in order that they may have the proper proportion to their setting and bear the right relation to their surroundings. For instance, a grill made from either wrought iron or soft steel must fit the opening when finished, iron gates must fit space for which they are intended, yet not be too tall or too short to be in good proportion to their setting, etc. Andirons must fit into the fireplace and occupy the space so as to give the eye a sense of fitness and proportion to the whole hearth. This sketch shows a pair of andirons that can be made suitable for any size hearth. No inlaying, etching, etc., is used upon this work, the only decoration being the hammer marks left by the peen of the hammer. Andirons are much used in country homes where log fires are in use. They can be made of iron or brass, and coal or wood may be used on a hearth fitted out with a pair.
Stock: One piece soft steel, 11⁄2 × 11⁄2 × 20 ins. Two pieces, 7⁄8 in. square, 9 ins. long. Two pieces, 7⁄8 in. square, 14 ins. long. Two pieces, 7⁄8 in. square, 20 ins. long. One piece 3⁄4-in. square iron. One piece 1 × 1⁄4 × 6 ins. flat iron.
Directions: Take the 20-in. bar and split it 10 ins. To do this rub a piece of chalk on the two faces of the bar. This makes clear any marking put on the surface. With the square mark off 10 ins. from one end. Now with a pair of dividers set at 3⁄4 in. run along the bar with one leg of the dividers on the outer edge to the 10-in. mark. Do this on both faces. Now mark on this centre line with a cold chisel. Put the bar into the fire and heat the end of it. Take it out when red hot and put it on the anvil. The marks made by the cold chisel will show plainly. With the hot chisel cut along the lines made by the cold chisel, cutting from both sides of the piece until the bar is divided into two equal parts. This will require a number of heatings to do. The last inch should be cut from the top down. To cut this, up-end the bar on the anvil or any solid base, placing the hot chisel in the crotch of the piece and striking it with the sledge hammer. This cuts the last inch down square with the axis of the bar. The sledge hammer work is heavy and one requires a helper here. The bar is now divided into two wings. Before shaping these two wings into the base for feet the upper part of the bar should be drawn out according to the drawing and the end rounded or squared as suits the taste. The wings are now shaped up and form the two feet on the bar. (See drawing.)
To shape the feet of the andiron: The drawing shows the shape and length the legs should be. To do this heat the bar at the crotch, and flatten both sides out almost straight. This prepares for shaping according to the drawing. Measure off 3 ins. from the extreme end of each leg and mark off with a centre-punch. The 3-in. lengths form the feet. Taper the iron between the centre-punch mark and the crotch so that when finished the leg should measure 11⁄2 × 5⁄8 in. close to the crotch, and 1 × 1⁄2 in. at the centre-punch mark. Repeat this on the other leg. Flatten out the feet so that they will measure 31⁄2 × 21⁄4 ins. These feet are slightly impressed. To do this place the feet over a hollow iron block and force the metal down so that the under side is raised up about 1⁄2 in. above the level of the foot. (See dotted lines on the drawing of the feet.) Repeat on the other side.
The leg is now ready to be bent into shape. Heat up at the crotch and then bend both legs back toward the top end at an angle of 60°. Heat again and bend the legs forward, shaping them like the drawing.
Back part of the andiron: The drawing shows a short upright piece placed so as to prevent the logs rolling out in front. The 14-in. piece is welded on to the upright, as shown in the drawing, and fastened on to the andiron. The 20-in. piece is welded on to the andiron and forms the leg on which the wood is placed. These pieces are welded upon short uprights by what is called jump welds. (See description of jump welds.) The end of the iron is bent on the anvil as square bends are always made. (See description of square bends.) The end that fastens to the andiron proper is also bent square, but tapered slightly to make a nice fit. Fastening the frame to the andiron is done with a stud and bolt. The stud is screwed into the andiron and into the frame as shown by the dotted lines. A square headed bolt fastens the upper part, thus preventing any twisting out of place. The only finish given to the andirons is that left by the marking of this peen hammer. This leaves a mottled surface, which gives an old look to the finished piece.
Chain ring bolt: Ring bolt is made from a 3⁄4-in. square iron piece. This is drawn down at one end until it is 1 in. long and 1⁄2 in. round. A thread is cut on this end. Drill a hole through the centre of the square head 3⁄8 in. in diameter.
Ring: Take the 1 × 1⁄4 × 6 in. piece of flat iron. Draw it out so that it tapers toward each end. (See drawing.) On the extreme end of each is a 1⁄4-in. pin 3⁄8 in. long. Bend ring into shape. The lower centre of the ring has a knob. This knob is made out of a piece of 3⁄4-in. square iron pulled down 1⁄4 in. in diameter and 1⁄4 in. back from the end. The fullered end makes the pin and should be cut long enough to project through the ring 1⁄8 in. to allow for riveting. You have sufficient stock to round up on the edge of the anvil into a ball shape. Drill a hole in the centre of the ring and fit the pin on the end of the knob into the hole in the ring. Rivet tight. The design you see on the ring may be put on with a diamond pointed chisel. The ring is now heated, opened out, and pushed into the hole made in the ring bolt so that it swings easily into place. Two rings of course should be made. The chain fastened from one ring to another is used as a guard against fire. The chain rings are made out of 1⁄4-in. square iron which is cut 10 ins. long. Then they are bent square and welded as chain links are usually welded. Notice that the last two links show an opening just wide enough to allow them to be slipped into the rings of the andiron. This completes the set. The finish is made by the indentations left by the peen of the hammer.
On page 369 is shown another pair of andirons. They are made in the same way as the pair just described, splitting it down to form the legs. The wood rests are riveted through the body of the piece, forming a large rivet head in front to hold it in place and at the same time adding to the decoration.
Fire Tools and Stand: Poker, Shovel, Tongs
Fire tools form part of the andiron set and are used for grate fires or open hearth fires of either coal or wood. They are always in evidence in country homes where open fireplaces are still in use. They can be made of brass, iron, or soft steel. If an andiron is in place the fire tools are usually made of the same metal and finished in the same way so as to match.
Poker:
Stock: One piece of 7⁄8-in. round iron or soft steel 8 ins. long (for handle). One piece 1⁄2 in. round. One piece 20 ins. long (for rod).
These drawings show a simple design in fire tools. All have handles after the same design, slightly curved, with a ball as an end decoration. The making of the handle is described below, and this method, of course, applies to the making of all the handles of this set.
Handle:
Stock: One piece 7⁄8 in. of round stock fullered down 7⁄8 in. from the end to a thickness of 5⁄8 in. Knock the four corners down and round up into a ball. Five inches from this, fuller the piece to 5⁄8 in. thickness. Draw the piece out any length, keeping the thickness 5⁄8 in. Weld the 1⁄2-in. rod to the small end. The extreme end of the poker may be finished in various ways. It is sometimes turned at right angles to the rod. It may be pointed, flattened, etc. The centre of the handle is slightly curved. To do this heat the rod and reduce it, then place it upon the largest part of the horn of the anvil. With the hand hammer, hammer until the thinnest part in the centre measures about 3⁄4 in. in diameter. In this way the handle is reduced 1⁄8 in. at that point, and curved in slightly.
Shovel:
Stock: Handle, 7⁄8 × 8 in. round iron or soft steel. Rod, 1⁄2 × 10 ins. long, iron or soft steel. Shovel blades, rectangular piece of No. 20, soft steel, 6 × 9 ins.
Directions: Handle is made in same way as you made the handle of the poker.
Rod: The rod is welded at one end to the handle. The other end is flattened out to be riveted on to the shovel blade. To do this, upset the extreme end of the rod back about 1 in. and about 3⁄4 in. in diameter. Flatten this out and shape it up as shown by the sketch. Holes are drilled in for 1⁄8 in. rivets.
Shovel blade: Cut a paper pattern just the shape of the blade. Mark on the inside of the pattern the width of the edges to be turned up. Place the paper pattern on the metal and cut out the outline with a cold chisel. Now mark off the inside line for the turned up edges. Heat the metal in the forge fire, a little at a time, beginning at the centre part of the round. Bend it upon a round stake, tapping gently with the hammer until the blade is well shaped, according to your design. This size metal will buckle up the same as the copper did. Give as much care in rounding up the iron as you did to the copper. (See copper bowl.) When the piece has taken on the shovel shape place the end of the handle to be riveted on the blade, and mark the holes. Drill and rivet the handle and the blade with 1⁄8-in. round head iron rivets. Notice that the shovel blade is not in an exact line with the handle and rod. It forms an angle with them. This bend is made after the riveting is done. Heat the piece where the blade joins the rod and bend it back gently either with the hand or by tapping it with a hammer, keeping the hot part of the shovel, all the time, on the horn of the anvil.
Tongs:
Stock: 7⁄8 × 12 in. round, for handle. Two pieces 1⁄2 × 16 in. round rod.
Directions: Make handle as for poker and shovel. Look at the detail drawing and you will see by the dotted lines that 2 ins. from the lower end of the handle the stock is bent out at right angles to the axis of the handle. Take one of the 1⁄2 × 16 in. round rods, place it in the swage, using the top swage on this. Shape the piece between the two swages. Form it to an oval shape by striking with a sledge hammer on the top swage. This makes one half of the rounded part of the tong. If this is done without turning the piece while working it, the cross section will be oval. Bend it rounding, as shown by the drawing. It is now ready to weld to the rod, but before doing this it is best to finish the hinge. Draw out the stock between the shoulder and the bend, 2 × 5⁄8 ins. in diameter. Leave the stock heavy near the handle on account of the weight of the tongs. To form the hinge: Place a round 3⁄4-in. punch, flattened on the end, on the corner and drive down half way. This makes a circular depression, just large enough to accommodate the 1⁄2-in. hinge. Two of these wings of the tongs are to be made to complete the tongs. The second piece is far simpler than the first to make, and it is really the only part of the tong that moves. Draw out the stock and make the same size oval as you made with the other piece under the swages. Bend it the same shape. Repeat the work with the punch on the end, thus making the other half of the tong hinge. File these halves to fit perfectly. When that is satisfactory, drill a hole through the middle. Put a round-head rivet through, and see whether the hinge now works perfectly free. Remove rivets. The parts are now ready to be welded to the rods. Upset the ends of the small rods, scarf both for a regular lap weld (see Lap Weld), and finish by welding. The end of the tongs are flattened down. Flatten out the material and at the same time round it up. If the material is not thick enough to give enough for this rounding part, upset the end a little, or double the end over and weld. (See Welding.)
Tongs are now ready for riveting together. Place the hinge in position. Push the round-head rivet through the hole made. Let it push through far enough to allow material for a rivet head of exactly the size of the round head. The head may be rounded up if not too large, while it is cold. Since only a 1⁄4-in. rivet is called for here, this work can be done without any heating.
Tongs are made, as you know, for the purpose of picking up pieces of wood or coal to place them in a stove or open fire. One must keep their use in mind when making the ends of the tongs fitted to do this work, so the ends may be flat, round, claw shaped, concaved, etc. The finish will be the same as the finish on the andiron, without any attempt at ornament. The surface should show the hammer marks, but be quite free from lumps.
Stand: Sometimes hooks are fastened in the fireplace for holding the fire tools. A tool stand, however, is most convenient and may be made easily. The drawing shows a plain design, with base, feet, upright, arms for receiving the tools, and handle.
Stock: Base, No. 20 sheet iron, 18 × 14 ins., oblong piece. Feet: 3 pieces, 1 in. square, 2 ins. long. Upright, 3⁄4 in. round, 26 ins. long. Arms, 2 pieces, 1 × 1⁄4 × 15 ins. Handle, 1 × 1⁄2 × 20 ins.
Directions: The drawing shows the stand as it should look when finished. Base is made first. Cut out a pattern of an ellipse, long diameter 18 ins., short diameter 14 ins. Place this pattern on the oblong piece and cut it out with shears or a cold chisel. On the inside mark off 11⁄4 ins. parallel to the outside edge. On that line turn the metal up as you turned up the rim of the copper bowl. This can be done while the metal is either hot or cold. Perhaps it is a little easier to work up most of the bend while the metal is hot and finish up while it is cold. Do not cool the metal off in water, though. This tends to harden it a little. Let it cool off gradually, and when necessary anneal or soften it. Feet: The 1-in. square iron is fullered down 1 in. from the end. The ball is rounded out of this end piece same as was done in making the balls for the door knocker. This leaves part of the metal with which to make a pin for riveting. Cut off this rivet pin the length required. Rivet holes are made in the base large enough to receive the rivet pins on the iron feet. Divide the base into three equal parts. Drill rivet holes the right size, put the iron balls in place, and rivet.
Arms: The two pieces of 1⁄4 × 1 × 15 ins. are bent and scarfed. The two scarfed edges are welded together. Then the end is welded to one end of the upright post.
Handle: The handle is made separate and is then welded on to the arms. Take the 1⁄2 × 20 in. piece and bend it at right angles 5 ins. from each end. Heat it in the middle and bend so the two ends come together. This forms a loop. Make this loop the same shape as is shown by the handle. Weld the two 5-in. ends together, shape, and then weld this to the crotch of the arms. This forms the handle. The arms are now bent wide enough to receive the fire tools.
The upright: Cut it off 30 ins. from the top of the arms. Upset one end large enough to make a foot 4 ins. long and about 2 ins. wide. This is flattened down and shaped as shown, for three 1⁄4-in. rivets. Push the rivets in and rivet the upright to the base. If the base should not be strong enough to hold the upright firm it can be strengthened by placing a brace from the long ends and fastening it to the centre of the upright. This adds to the decoration as well as the strength. Use a 1⁄2 × 1⁄8 in. flat bar of iron or steel. Place it in a vise and twist it about two thirds of its length. Bend the ends to fit the curved sides of the base and also to fit the post. A small 1⁄8-in. rivet on each side and one through the post will hold it sufficiently. The stand is finished to correspond with the andiron and fire tools. In this design the hammer marks seem more suitable than any special decoration. A little machine oil spread over the surface, the whole thing heated in the forge fire until the oil flashes off, gives a natural iron finish, which is most pleasing.
XXIX — Candlesticks, Hinges, Iron Brackets
Candlestick
This wrought iron candlestick is made up of three pieces welded together.
Stock: Three pieces of 3⁄8-in. round iron 4 ins. long.
Directions: The detail drawings show the steps in the making of this piece of work. Notice that the rod used to make the leg and foot also forms part of the holder or socket. Take one of the 3⁄8 × 4 in. rods. Mark off 3⁄4 in. from one end. Draw this out as shown by the sketch. Mark off 1⁄2 in. from that point. From this 1⁄2-in. mark draw the material out 41⁄2 ins. long. This should be made square and tapered slightly toward the foot. You will then have 3⁄4 in. for the foot.
Foot: The drawing shows a conventional flower shaped foot. Spread the 3⁄4 in. wide enough to shape a foot as shown in the sketch. Shape it by cutting it out with a chisel and then filing. The embossing is done in the same way, as has been explained. (See Embossing.)
Socket: The socket is tulip or cup shaped. Flatten out the opposite end of the 4-in. bar and shape up as shown in sketch. Make the other two legs to match this one. Weld the three pieces together at A in the following way: Put the three parts together and bind in place with a piece of binding wire. Place it in the fire and heat it to a welding heat. Weld the three pieces close to the socket and for about 1 in. below. Shape a round neck (see sketch) and at the same time reduce it to 3⁄8 in. in diameter. The small iron collar is put on and welded about 1 in. below the socket. This addition is for ornamental purposes entirely.
Shape socket for the candle: Heat the top at a low heat and with a pair of round-nosed pincers shape up as shown.
The legs are now twisted. This can be done the last thing and while the metal is cold.
Wrought iron candlestick: Take a piece of soft steel or wrought iron 1⁄4 × 4 × 4 ins. Heat the bar. Emboss the centre by driving it in a hole in a swage block. The centre should be about 11⁄2 ins. above the surface of the feet. Cut out the four pieces as shown in the sketch. File up and finish the base.
Post: Select a piece of 5⁄8-in. square iron. Taper the ends to 3⁄8 in. square by 71⁄2 ins. long. The small end swells out 1⁄2 in. as shown in the sketch. Forge a small pin, 1⁄4 × 1⁄4 in., on the end of this post. Now swell the base of the post so that it will measure 7⁄8 in. square. The length from end to end minus the length of the pin should measure 8 ins. Forge a 3⁄8-in. pin 1⁄2 in. long at the base end. Heat the centre of the post; place it in the vise and give it a complete twist to the right. Drill in the centre of the base a hole to fit the pin on the end of the post. Heat the pin red hot and rivet the base to the post.
Candle socket: This socket is made in a conventional design. Take a piece of No. 20 soft sheet steel or iron and cut a disc 21⁄2 ins. in diameter. Divide this piece equally into six parts and cut out as shown on the drawing. Bend these leaves up to form a socket. Now cut a piece of sheet metal 21⁄2 ins. square, and cut out as shown for the little ornament fastened on the top. Bend the four wings down as shown here. Drill a small hole through the centre of each to fit to the piece on the end of the post. Place these pieces in position and rivet in place. This work is to be done cold. A candlestick of this design is easily made and very attractive when finished.
Decorative Iron Work
Next to the scroll, the twist is perhaps the most characteristic detail of decorative treatment in iron. Twists relieve the plain effect of the straight lines made by the hard edges of the metal, by introducing short curves into the design. The twists are easily made and lend themselves largely for decoration on such things as fire escapes, brackets, grills, gates, fences, and smaller articles, such as umbrella stands, door knockers, fire tools, etc.
The twisting is done best while the iron is cold. If done while the iron is hot great care must be taken to check up when the lines begin to run too close together. Take a bar of square iron, fasten one end in the vise, and with a monkey wrench on the other end give the metal a twist. Only square bars show a change in the shape after twisting. Round stock when placed in the vise and twisted shows no change in shape. However, two pieces of round stock twisted give a very pleasing effect. A braided strand is made (1) by welding the ends of two pieces of round iron together side by side and twisting them, (2) welding ends of two more pieces of the same size and length together and twisting them, (3) by welding these two twisted bars together on both ends and twisting them in the opposite direction. This gives a braided effect which is most decorative. However, the square stock gives the most satisfactory result in all of this twisted work.
Handles can be made by reducing square stock, leaving the centre larger and drawing the ends out to a taper and twisting this tapered part. Begin the twist in the middle and let it rise gradually toward each end. Great care must be taken with this work, as the smallest sizes are also the weakest and naturally bend first. To do this work successfully the metal must be heated and driven a little each time until the whole taper is twisted. Spirals: Spirals are made by drawing a long taper on the end of a round or square bar of small iron. Turn the end of the bar up 1⁄2 in. at right angles. Grasp the turned up end in the vise; coil the end up as you would a coil of rope. Slip one end under the other when they come together. When the first coil reaches the centre of the piece repeat on the other end until the two coils meet in the middle. Heat it all evenly. Grasp both ends in the tongs and pull the spiral out. Stop when the openings equal the size of the iron of which the coil is made.
Ornamental bulbs: Bulbs are used in the same way as spirals and twists, for decorative purposes, on andirons, grills, fences, etc.
The form shown here in the sketch is a very simple one. The principle, however, is the same as that applied to the forging of more complex bulbs. Select a rod of iron for a core. Reduce the thickness to about 1⁄2 in. for about 6 ins. long, leaving the required thickness at the ends; 1⁄2 in. from the shoulder nick the bar around, cutting it almost through. Leave about 1⁄16 in. to hold it to the body of the piece. Cut the core off 1 in. from the 3-in. cut. The picture shows the method of making the core in order to work out the problem. Select a number of pieces of 3⁄16-in. round soft steel the length of the reduced piece and place these around the core, each one fitting close to the next one. If the space is too small or too large when the last piece is put in make the core larger or smaller. These rods should just touch when they lie around the core. Now with a pair of tongs bind all the rods tightly around the core and with the same tongs put one end in the fire and heat red hot. Cover with borax. Take on a welding heat and weld it in a swage, confining the length of the welding to as short a space as possible.
The core prevents the rods from sinking while welding and it also keeps them in place. Reverse the piece. Put the other end in the fire and weld as before. Weld the neck as short as possible. Heat the body of the piece uniformly. Grasp one end of the bar in the vise and with a pair of tongs twist the other end toward the right slowly. While doing so tap lightly on the end with a hammer. This tends to loosen up the rods and help the twisting. Be careful not to twist so much that the rods will break away from the welds. Heat all again. Place it again in the vise and twist in the opposite direction, at the same time driving on the ends. This forces the centre out and gives it a bulb shape. The core should bend up where the cutting is done. Now the core should be driven out. A punch driven in against the core should break it easily where the cut marks are made. These short ends are forced out through the openings between the rods, and any uneven buckles or bends in the rods should be bent or straightened as the case requires. The bulb can be trued up while cold. A punch driven through from the opposite side will help straighten any of the rods bent from the outside in.
The rods can be plied apart with a pair of pliers or a pair of tongs. The surplus metal on the top end is now cut off and trued up.
Spiral Candlestick
This old Dutch candlestick is made of 3⁄16-in. round wire in spiral form. The spiral stem is made so that, as the candle burns down, an inner socket is moved around the spiral. This travels up and down and keeps the point of the candle above the holder.
Stock: Base, 5-in. disc of sheet steel or iron. Legs, 1⁄8 × 1 × 5 ins. (makes the 3). Spiral, 3⁄16-in. round wire, 40 ins.
Directions (base or pan): Divide the disc into sixteen equal parts. Flute these parts by cutting out a little hollow in a hard wood block and driving the flutes in by the use of a round cross peen hammer. Fluting reduces the diameter of the disc and forms it into a pan shape.
Legs: The three legs are in one piece. The 1⁄8 × 1 × 5 in. piece is split down half way; 1 in. from where the split ends the piece is fullered down. (See sketch.) Draw out this end 3⁄8 in. wide. Draw out the split ends to this width, and all pieces to 1⁄8 in. thickness. This forms a tripod, the three legs at an equal distance apart. The ends of the feet are made very thin by flattening down. Turn these up as shown by the sketch and shape the three feet.
Spiral stem: This candle stem is 3⁄4 in. in diameter. If you wind up a piece of 3⁄16-in. wire on a 3⁄4-in. iron rod while the metal is cold you will have a spiral stem like the one shown here. To do this make a mandrel out of a 3⁄4-in. bar not less than 20 ins. in length. Drill a 1⁄4-in. hole in the end. Into this hole drive a 1⁄4-in. iron plug. Place this mandrel in the vise. Bend a small loop on the end of this wire to fit the 1⁄4-in. pin. Bend the wire and begin to wind around the bar. Make as many turns as are shown in the drawing. Take the wire off. The small loop end will stick out below the spiral and prevent it standing on a base level. This end must be driven back. To do this place it upon the other end of the rod, strike it with the hammer, and flatten it out so that the base will stand flat. Insert a sharp-pointed chisel between the coils; open them out so that the distance between them will be 1⁄4 in. Do this while the metal is cold. The handle may be made any design. It can be bent over, extended at right angles to the top, etc. Rivet the legs to the base with a 1⁄4-in. bolt. With a nut on the end rivet tightly to prevent the nut loosening up.
Socket to fit the spiral stem, for raising and lowering the candle: Stock: One piece of 1⁄8 × 1 × 3 in. One piece of 1 × 21⁄2 in. flat iron or soft steel, No. 20.
Directions: The No. 20 piece is bent around a 3⁄4-in. mandrel to give it a cylindrical shape. The two edges just come together. The handle of this socket is made by fullering down 1⁄8 × 1 × 3 ins., 1 in. back from the end, and drawing this out 3⁄16 in. round, 2 ins. long. The end is turned over as shown in the sketch; the other end is filed round to fit the inside of the socket cylinder. The two pieces are now brazed together. File the parts that come into contact with each other perfectly clean, and cover with borax. Heat it red hot and touch the parts to be brazed with the end of a piece of brass wire. At a certain temperature the brass wire will melt and fill up the spaces between the bottom and the cylinder. (See Brazing.) This makes a tight joint: it is like soldering wrought iron together. This method of joining is used where welding would be impossible, as it would be in this case. File the base off smooth. The candle can now be slipped between the coils of wire. It should travel in its socket up and down the spiral. (See drawing.)
Iron and Steel Hinges
Ornamental hinges are used on doors, wall cabinets, chests, gates, etc., or wherever suitable. There are three methods of making hinges: (1) Solid eye, (2) welded, (3) turned or bent eye. (See article on Plain Hinges.)
Solid eye: The first drawing shows the solid eye split ornamental hinge.
Stock: One piece of soft steel or wrought iron, 7⁄8 × 7⁄8 × 6 ins. long. Take a bar of iron 18 ins. long with the above dimensions as to width and thickness; 5 ins. from the end of the bar fuller down to 3⁄8 in. thick. These 5 ins. are flattened down to 1⁄4 in. thick and 2 ins. wide, any length. Split the flattened part to within 21⁄2 ins. of the shoulder. The two ends are now thrown out, tapered, and bent into shape. Cut the piece from the bar 1 in. back of the fullered part. Round the piece up, thus forming the eye. The body of the piece between the split and the eye is now widened out to 21⁄2 ins. To do this use the peen of the hammer on the under side of the metal, thus thinning out the metal in the centre in order to increase the width. Shape it up and curve it about 1⁄4 in. This, in turn, gives a nice rounded finished surface similar to the drawer pull. The chased design on the hinge is made in the same manner and with the same tools as are used in work in chasing. (See chapter on Chasing.)
The butt for the hinge is made of 1 × 1⁄2 in. flat wrought iron. Fuller down the end of the piece, round it up to fit the diameter of the eye of the hinge. A hole is punched in the middle of the piece. A 21⁄2 × 1⁄2 in. piece of iron is drawn and is pushed into the hole, riveted down on the short end, and welded. The other end is drawn out to a square tapered point. Nick the four edges at intervals with a sharp chisel, thus throwing up little projections to prevent it from slipping out of the wood when driven in to hold the hinge. This kind of hinge is used mostly for doors. The upper part of the pin that sticks through the eye of the hinge is ornamented by a fuller mark and a round top.
Iron Bracket
This bracket is made of three pieces: back piece, hanger, and support:
Stock: Back plate, 3⁄8 × 1 in. of soft steel or Norway iron. Hanger and support, 1⁄4 in. square.
Back plate: The drawing shows the back plate as a conventional leaf design and is made as follows: Take the 3⁄8 × 1 in. of soft steel and shape it according to the drawing. With the peen of the hammer widen out the top enough to cut out the design shown here. When cut out as shown, boss up the centre of the leaves by using the peen hammer on a round hole. This bossing is a matter of taste. The lower part is now flattened out, trimmed, and shaped as shown. The thickness is of no importance. On the end of the top bar forge a pin about 3⁄16 in. in diameter to fasten into the back by riveting.
Hook: The hook is made in the same way as you made the gate hook. The bar is twisted in the middle.
Support: Select a bar the right length and twist it in the middle. Flatten the ends down and bend the little curves as shown. This is drilled for a 1⁄8-in. rivet, then placed in position. Holes are marked in the hanger and in the back. Rivet the support in place. Be careful to have the hanger at right angles to the back. If you do not, the effect is spoiled, no matter how good the rest of the workmanship may be.
XXX — Lamps, Lanterns, Iron Kettle Stand, Umbrella Stand
Wrought Iron Lamp
Base: No. 16 soft sheet steel, 10 ins. square.
Make a 21⁄2-in. circle in the centre of the 10-in. square piece. Drive this up 1⁄2 in. above the level by placing it over a 21⁄2-in. hole in a wooden block or a swage block. If this piece of iron is placed over a hole any diameter and struck on the opposite side with the peen of the hammer it will sink into the hole and take the rounding shape. This can be done while the metal is cold. With a pair of dividers find the centre of boss and describe a faint circle 1 in. less than the diameter of the base. Tangent to those lines draw lines along the edge of the base. The dotted lines on the sketch show how the base should be cut out. The stock left on the corners forms the feet when the sides of the base are bent into shape. Cut out the piece of metal as described and bend the sides over 1⁄2 in. The corners must be heated red hot and formed separately. This is best done over the heel of the anvil. After placing the heated corners on the heel of the anvil drive quickly with a light hammer first on one side and then on the other, forming and upsetting the metal into shape at the same time. The flare on the bottom of the feet is worked in after the corners and shaped as shown in the sketch. Repeat this on the four corners. Now flare out the feet on the horn of the anvil. Out of the centre of the boss cut a circle a little less than the base of the post, to receive the post.
Post: Take a 10 × 5 in. piece and bend it around a piece of round iron so that the two edges will fit close together. The inside and outside of these are filed for brazing. (See Brazing.) This post is now bound with good strong wire to keep the joint close. Cover with flux, place in the fire and add the smelter to the joint on the inside of the pipe. When the smelter runs into the joint take it out of the fire and allow it to cool in the air. The joint is now filed up on the outside and if properly brazed should show only a very fine line made by the smelter. The upper part of the post is now swelled out as shown in the sketch, by heating at a low heat and spreading the metal out all around the end.
A cap is placed on top of the post to hold the arms that support the shade and to hold, too, the electric light bulb, or gas pipe, or oil well, according to the light to be used. The cap is made by rounding the end of a 1-in. bar to 1⁄2 in. in diameter, 2 ins. long. The other end is cut off about 1⁄2 in. to allow for the flattening down to make the cap.
Place the 1⁄2-in. stem into a heading tool and flatten this bar down quite thin. Spread it out so that the edges can be turned over at right angles to form a cap to fit the top of the post. This cap can be either brazed or riveted on to the post. Either will look well. If used for gas or electric light a hole should be drilled through the centre of the cap and through the post to receive the wire. If used for gas the lower side can be tapered out so that 1⁄8-in. gas pipe can be screwed in. Now cut a thread on the top of the post to fit an electric light socket. The same thread acts as a holder for the bracket of the shade holder. Place the cap on the post, rivet and braze. File the lower part of the post and the inside of the hole on the base perfectly clean. The bottom of the post should be filed a little tapering so it will fit into the base of the hole tight. Wire it in for brazing so that the post will stand perpendicular to the base. Carry your binding wires from the top of the post to the four corners of the base, using heavy wire for this work of binding. Cover the joint with flux. Place the centre on the fire and put the brazing material on the joint around the post. With a slow heat, heat till the smelter runs into the joint. Close off the blast, let it remain in the fire until cold, then remove it.
Shade holder: This is made of a piece of 1 × 1⁄8 × 10 in. soft steel. Fuller down 3 ins. from the end to 3⁄8 × 1⁄8 in. Draw this out any length. Split the other end to within 11⁄8 ins. of this fuller mark. Throw these arms out and draw each down the same size as the other, 1⁄8 × 3⁄8 in. Place the crotch on a small bottom fuller and with the top fuller spread each arm out so that it will measure an equal distance from the other arms. At the same time this will shape the centre. Drive the end out tapering 3⁄8 in. wide at the base, tapering to 1⁄8 in. square at the ends. The length of the arms depends upon the size of the shade. Tip ends of the arms should be bent up 1⁄8 in. to hold the shade in place. Drill a hole in the centre of the tripod and tap a thread in the hole to fit the thread on the end of the cap, so that this will screw on. These arms can be bent down or up to suit the height of the shade.
Shade: The shade pattern is developed in the same way as the shade described in the copper article on lamp shades. In this case, however, each unit is cut out separately and riveted to the next; all put together and filed; 1⁄8-in. soft iron rivets are used for riveting the parts.
Glass: The glass can be bought at any glazier’s. Cathedral opalescent glass is best. Place a piece of card-board on one of the units and mark the outline of the opening. Cut about 3⁄8 in. larger than this outline. This pattern taken to the glazier can be cut out from any kind of glass, according to the size wanted.
Lamp
This lamp may be used for gas, oil, or electricity. The difference between this and the preceding lamps lies in the construction of the base. The full page illustration shows lamp described here.
Base: Soft steel 1⁄8 × 5 × 24 ins.
Mark off the design shown by the full lines on the 1⁄8 × 5 × 24 in. piece. This is for one leg of the lamp. Cut with a sharp cold chisel along the outline about two thirds of the way through the thickness. Place the cut line in the jaws of the vise. With a pair of tongs grasp the waste material, then with a prying motion break off these pieces. File up the rough edge left by the cutting. With this piece as a pattern cut in like manner three more pieces, making four in all. This makes the stock for the four legs. Place the foot end of one piece into the fire and bend about 1 in. of this end into a small circle having a radius of not more than 3⁄4 in. About 5 ins. back from this heat the metal to a length of 5 ins. Place it on the anvil as shown and with the hand hammer drive it into a circle.
While bending this into shape keep the circle a little larger than the drawing calls for. The circle is very easily reduced, while if it was made too small in the beginning one would have to straighten the whole piece out to increase the size. Therefore, it is best to work it large until finished. Wide stock like this is easily twisted out of shape, so that it is very difficult to bend it up in a circle of this kind. It is hard, too, to change any twist that may be worked in.
Bend the other three legs in the same way, as nearly like the first one as you can. Be sure to make the four legs the same height when finished. Drill three holes for 3⁄8-in. bolts, as shown in the sketch. Seven inches below the top drill one hole in each leg for a rosette or some form of decorative treatment. These four legs are held in place by means of a tapered square plug 4 ins. long. The small end should fit the smallest width on the lamp legs and the taper 4 ins. below this width. Drill a hole through the centre of this plug for a 1⁄8-in. gas pipe, if to be used for gas. The same opening can be made for electric wires, etc., and a lamp well, placed at the end for a lamp.
To put the lamp together: Place one leg on the square plug and mark through the holes on the plug. Centre-punch these holes and drill for a 3⁄8-in. top. The hole should be drilled through the plug. Tap out the holes and bolt the two legs, one on either side. While drilling these holes be sure they are at right angles to the centre axis of the plug. This means a little blocking up on the tapered end. Bolt the two legs to the plug by using any short 3⁄8-in. bolts for this purpose. If all work so far has been carefully done these two legs will stand vertically to the plane of the table. If not they can be made to do so by taking out a little of the curve in the legs, thereby lengthening the side that might be a little short. Place one leg up on the third side and with a scratch awl mark the holes through on to the plug and drill these three holes through the plug. Tap out as you did before and put the other two feet on. Square up all the work done. Bolts are used for this purpose. Take 3⁄8-in. square bolts, 1⁄2 in. long. Reduce the thickness of the head to 1⁄8 in., flattening and rounding the top slightly. Put these in place of the temporary bolts. They will hold the sides of the lamp in place.
A decorative piece can be made out of a bolt head by placing it in the heading tool and forming a pyramid shaped head. This is pushed through the hole and riveted on the other side. Cut off a piece of gas pipe short enough to extend about 1 in. above the top of the lamp and to come within 2 ins. from the base. This is now forced through the hole in the plug. If any of the bolts should have screwed into this hole, preventing this pipe from going through, they should be filed off. To fill up the interval caused by the four scrolls bending outward on the top of the lamp, forge a round ball on the end of a square bar to fit this opening. Cut off the ball and drill a hole in through the ball to slip over the pipe. The thread on the end of the pipe should fall below the top of the ball. Make a tripod as explained in the description of the preceding lamp. Screw it in the end of this pipe tight against the ball. The end of the pipe is used for the fixtures needed.
Lanterns
The lantern shown here is of a simple design and can be made out of material without putting in any bends or twists. The material for the making of the uprights is 1⁄2 × 1⁄8 in. steel.
The top and bottom should be made of No. 16 soft steel. The design shows that all pieces are riveted together on a framework.
The top can be of one piece and shaped as shown in the sketch. Bottom is of one piece and is made for electric light, candle, or oil lamp. Fixtures for any one of the above ways of lighting must be placed in the bottom of the lantern. For the candle, a small socket can be riveted to the bottom. A cup to receive the oil lamp may be put in place. If candle or oil is used the bottom of the lantern must be fastened with a hinge, so that it will open to receive the lamp or candle. If it is adjusted for using electric light the cluster sockets can be fastened to the bottom, or they can hang from the top. These lanterns can be made in all sizes, from one small enough for a cozy corner to one large enough for a lodge keeper’s gate.
They may be hung on ornamental brackets, as shown in the sketch here, or they may hang directly from the ceiling, with ring or chain fastenings. They are made square, round, hexagonal, and so forth.
Iron Kettle Stand
Material: One piece 5⁄16-in. square iron, 20 ins. Two pieces 5⁄16-in. square iron, 9 ins. One piece 5⁄16 in. square iron, 7 ins. One piece 3⁄16-in. round iron, 8 ins. One sheet No. 20 iron, 6 in. in diameter.
Directions: Flatten one end of each piece of the three pieces, 5⁄16 × 20 in., 2 pieces of 5⁄16 × 9 in. Weld these three together. Weld the 5⁄16 × 7 in. piece to the three pieces as shown by the sketch. Bend the two 9-in. legs out equal distances from the front leg. This forms the tripod. Bend the ends of the three short pieces into a scroll to form the feet. Now, bend the centre rod up as shown in the sketch. When this is done catch it in the vise close to the bend. With the monkey wrench grasp it about two thirds of the way up and twist the centre piece to the right a sufficient number of turns to give it a regular bend between the two points. Reduce the end of this upright post to 3⁄16 in. round and 6 ins. in length, leaving on the end a small boss about 3⁄8 in. This boss is to be rounded up by flattening and rounding on the edge of the anvil. Through the centre of this boss punch a 3⁄16-in. hole and drive into it a piece of 8 × 3⁄16 in. round wire. When half of the wire is pushed through the hole bend the ends forward and at the same time drive them into the boss. This prevents the bent piece of iron from working up and down. It is now opened out as shown by the sketch and bent into a hook shape. The end of the post is turned so that the centre of this hook will hang over the centre of the tripod.
Lamp holder: Mark on the 6-in. disc a flower form similar to the one shown in the sketch. Cut out the design with a sharp chisel. File all rough edges and bend the shape up so that it will fit around the outside of the alcohol lamp, to hold it in place. Punch a hole through the centre for a 1⁄8-in. rivet and drill a 1⁄8-in. hole directly under the centre of the hook. Place the lamp holder on and rivet in place. When the kettle is placed on the hook it should hang directly over the lamp. If it does not do so the post may be changed and the position of the kettle made to correspond.
Umbrella Stand
The umbrella stand in the accompanying illustration shows a splendidly shaped design. You will notice that the four uprights are curved and twisted, fastened to two rings 10 ins. in diameter. The pan in the bottom of the stand, placed there to catch the drippings from the umbrellas, is made of copper and is beaten into shape in the same way as you would drive any pan into form. This is made to fit in the base of the stand.
To make this stand, take four pieces 1 × 1⁄8 in. flat soft steel, 40 ins. long. Two pieces 1 × 1⁄8 in., 31 ins. long, are needed for the rings; four pieces 1 × 3⁄8 × 12 ins. for legs. The copper pan should be 12 ins. in diameter.
XXXI — Door Knockers, Plates, etc.
Door Knocker
Sketches given here show two different designs of door knockers. In the first design the knocker itself is made of round iron and twisted to form part of the design. It is made of very heavy stock.
Stock: Escutcheon plate: 1 × 1⁄4 in. flat iron. Bolt: 3⁄4 × 1⁄2 in. iron. Knocker: 1⁄4 × 1 × 4 ins. long. Directions: Take the piece of metal intended for the escutcheon plate and thin the ends out according to the dimensions of the drawing. Draw out the end of the 3⁄8 × 1⁄2 in. piece until it is 3⁄8 in. in diameter and 2 ins. long. The thickness of the door must determine the length of this bolt. Since the door knocker fastens on to the door, the bolt should go through and fasten on the inside with a washer and nut. The other end of the bolt is rounded to the dimensions given and a 1⁄4-in. hole is drilled through the centre.
Knocker: Taper the 1⁄4 × 1 × 4 in. piece of iron down as shown in sketch, retaining the thickness, 1⁄4 in., throughout the whole length. The two small pins on the end of the knocker are now made 1⁄4 in. in diameter and 1⁄4 in. long. This whole piece is bent into shape, the pins touching and the sides filed parallel to fit the bolt. When it is fastened into the bolt it should fit up snug and close.
Ball for end of knocker: Take a piece of 5⁄8-in. round iron any length. Fuller in as shown by the sketch. Rivet this to the centre of the knocker, the pin on the end of the ball projecting far enough through to make a rather large rivet head on the other side. The rivet head acts as a knocker. The bolt is pushed through the escutcheon plate, then the knocker is ready to be placed on the door. Sometimes these balls are made long enough to go through the door and fasten in the same way as the bolt.
Second door knocker: The design and dimensions given here show the general scheme of this knocker. The escutcheon plate is made with a piece of 1⁄8 × 51⁄2 × 7 in. soft steel. The corners of this piece are clipped off and filed rounding or square.
Knocker: The knocker is made in the same way as the knocker was made in the first design. You use a piece of very heavy material about 13⁄4 in. in diameter. The ends are drawn down to 1⁄2 in. in diameter. If the stock is 1 in. in diameter, the piece may be upset large enough in the middle for the centre. This lessens the work of drawing out and is perhaps a much quicker way of making a knocker. The length of the knocker ring before it is bent is about 15 ins. This is pushed into the eye bolt. This knocker is placed on the door with wrought iron nails, one in each corner. The bolts that hold the knocker are riveted flush to the back of the plate. This finishing work should be done by the peen end of the hammer while the metal is cold.
Escutcheon plates: Escutcheon plates are used for lock plates and fancy key ways. Some are plain, while others lend themselves to elaborate decorations. They are forged out while hot. Two designs are here given. The simpler one explains itself.
Decorated Plate:
Stock: 1⁄8 × 1 × 6 in. soft steel.
Directions: Mark off 11⁄2 in. each way from the centre of the plate and centre-punch. This allows about 11⁄2 in. on each end for drawing-out purposes. Draw ends out. (See sketch). Split the metal down to the centre-punch mark as shown in the sketch. These small ends are now bent out, and the long ends are bent in a circle, thus forming the design. The key way is made by drilling two 1⁄4 in. holes 1⁄2 in. apart about the middle of the piece. Chisel out a piece between the two holes according to the design. Drill four holes as shown. These are for screws or wrought iron nails, used to fasten plates to doors. Many escutcheon plates are used for wall cabinets, cedar chests, doors, etc.
Door Knockers
Stock: Piece of soft steel 1⁄8 in. thick, 3 × 7 ins., for the escutcheon. Knocker, 3⁄4 × 1⁄4 × 51⁄2 ins. Eye bolt 3⁄4 × 1⁄2 bar any length. Strike pin, 3⁄8 in. round, 3⁄4 in. long (on bar).
Directions: Mark off on a thin sheet of metal the outline of the drawing. Cut the escutcheon plate same shape as the drawing (using cold chisel). File it up so that the edges are perfectly smooth. With a 1⁄8-in. drill, drill holes for the screws.
Knocker: Split the 51⁄2-in. piece of stock, leaving 1 in. square for the eye bolt and eye untouched. Round up the wings to 1⁄4 in. in diameter. Twist the two wings according to the design. Bring the two loose ends together and weld up 11⁄2 in. from the end. The same heat will enable you to draw and shape the loop. Spread out the parts between the weld and the twist, forming in this way the loop. Eye bolt: This is best made by working the end of a bar any length of the size stock given. The drawing shows a jaw-shaped holder to receive the eye of the knocker.
Punch a hole about 3⁄4 in. from the end of the bar about 1⁄4 in. in diameter. Cut out the piece between the hole and the end of the bar with a chisel. This forms the jaw. The small pin end is fullered down and drawn out the same as you did on the boss of the ring for the andiron, then it is riveted on to the escutcheon plate (see drawing) in place to receive the knocker. A 1⁄8-in. hole is drilled through this and through the eye of the knocker for the rivet to fasten the two together. The strike pin is made in the same way as the eye bolt, except that there is no jaw, just the plain piece of iron. The sketch shows a simple projection for the knocker to strike on.
Door knockers were used formerly in place of door bells, but to-day they are merely used for ornamental purposes.
Door Pulls
Door pulls are used as knockers, too. In general they take the place of door knobs, and are used in conjunction with a door plate. They are made of soft steel or iron.
Stock: Soft steel or wrought iron, 1⁄8 × 3 × 61⁄2 ins., made same way as the door knockers.
Door Handles
Stock: 5⁄8 in. round, 6 ins. long, of soft steel or wrought iron.
Directions: The piece of stock is drawn from the centre 23⁄4 ins. both ways to 5⁄16 in. in diameter. This will leave a piece of the full size material on each end of the rod. Flatten this out from the wide ends. Heat the iron very hot and flatten it down so that the width will be not less than 11⁄2 in. to 2 ins., to 1⁄8 in. thick. Cut the design out. Any one of the designs shown can be used. The bosses are drawn up from the under part by using the peen of the hammer and driving it into a hard wood block, or on an iron stake, as explained in the article on embossing. A very blunt chisel, like a fuller, will give the centre effect. The handles are now bent into shape. Some handles are twisted out of flat stock.
Drawer Pulls
Drawer pulls are made in much the same way as door knockers. There are the escutcheon plate, bolt, and ring. They may be made to push through a drawer of any kind. The design depends much upon the use the drawer pull is put to. They can be made out of round iron, flat iron, twisted iron.
Stock: Escutcheon plate, 1⁄8 in. soft steel, 21⁄4 ins. round. Bolt, 1⁄2 in. square on the bar. Ring, 1⁄4 × 61⁄2 ins., all of soft steel.
Directions: With a cold chisel cut a piece of flat soft steel 21⁄4 ins. round and make a disc. Divide the disc as shown by the drawing. File out the escalloped edges and with a small hand chisel chase the lines so as to form the design. The small half-round chisel will form the ovals and a centre-punch will form the dots. The ring is made by drawing each end of the 61⁄2-in. piece to a taper, leaving about one third of it for a centre. The ends should be tapered to 1⁄4 in. round. These ends fit into the bolt. Bend the ring into a circle. Engrave the design as you did on the escutcheon plate, using the same tools. The eye bolt is made from the 1⁄2-in. square bar by drawing out the end of the bar 2 ins. or less in length, 1⁄4 round, the length depending upon the thickness of the drawer. This bolt is to go through the drawer and be screwed tight in place with a nut. The large part is now cut off 1⁄2 in. in length and the four corners knocked down. A 1⁄4-in. hole should be drilled through the bolt to receive the ring. Heat the ring red hot at the heavy part and with a pair of tongs open it out just wide enough to receive the eye bolt. Then the ring is pushed into place.
Bossing up: Place the disc while cold on the hollow wood block and drive down from the under side with the hammer, bending in the inside. This makes the outside slightly oval, so that the bearing will be on the outer surface. The depth of this concave should not exceed 1⁄4 in. A few designs are here given.