Perils and Captivity

II Narrative of the Captivity of M. de Brisson in the Deserts of Africa, in the Year 1785

Translated From the French

After making several voyages to Africa, which had been attended with much difficulty, trouble and loss, I received orders, in the month of June 1785, from Mons. le Marechal de Castries, Minister and Secretary of the Marine Department, to embark for the island of St Louis, in Senegal, in the Ship St Catherine, Captain le Turc commander, the same officer who gained so great a character last war, when commander of the Flessinguois.

Having examined all the coasts from France to the Canary Islands, on the 10th of July following, we passed between these isles and that of Palma, about three o’clock in the afternoon.

Previous to our leaving France, I had taken care to apprise the Captain of the danger to which we should be exposed, in these latitudes, from the violence of the currents. I remarked to him, that every time I had passed that way, I found cause to fear our being windbound on the coasts of Barbary. This advice, the result of experience, should have met with attention from Captain le Turc; I therefore again repeated it, the moment I perceived the sea began to assume a clearer tinge, and inquired if he did not intend to sound. What are you afraid of? said he, the land! we are more than eighty leagues from it.

Allow me here to express my disapprobation of that immoderate self-conceit and confidence, for which the captains of trading vessels, especially those who visit these coasts, are so remarkable. However important an advice may be, they are not disposed to pay any regard to it; and of whatever kind the impending dangers appear, so much confidence have they in their own abilities, that they are better pleased to repair damage than prevent it.

The under captain made me a very similar reply with his superior. Alas! too soon they experimentally found my fears were far from groundless!

At midnight, I was awakened by a violent motion of the ship, and, thinking we were aground, I immediately leaped on deck. Judge my surprise, when I observed a kind of creek formed by the rocks. The mariners were all sound asleep. I quickly awaked them:—Save yourselves, cried I, we are near the shore! The captain got up in great consternation; and in his alarm, in which his officers partook, ordered them to steer towards the rocks. The vessel thus directed, and hurried at the same time by the force of contending currents, struck thrice on the sands, and remained immoveable.

Suddenly a horrid cry was heard; the masts were shaken; and the sails being violently shattered, were torn to pieces. The terror became universal, and the cries of the mariners were blended with the horrid noise of the roaring waves, enraged as it were that their course should be stopped by the rocks and the vessel, between which they were to pass. So great was the consternation that no one thought of doing any thing for his preservation. O, my wife!—O, my children!—they cry to one another, raising their hands to heaven. Meantime, they cut the masts by the board, in order, if possible, to right the ship. Vain trouble—the cabin is already filled with water.

In this dismal situation, I made up to the Captain, who, in his perplexity, could pay attention to nothing. It was but eighteen months before, that Captain Cassin had experienced a similar accident near Cape Blanc. In his desperation, he had occasioned the loss of many unhappy wretches by blowing out his own brains. I began to fear that Captain le Turc might act in the same manner, and that we should lose him too. I therefore besought him to have patience, and endeavoured to raise his spirits and courage, but in vain. We had without doubt perished, if M. Yan, his first lieutenant, M. Suret, a passenger, three English sailors and some others, encouraged by my example, had not assisted in throwing over the long boat into the sea, and preventing it afterwards from being broken to pieces against the ship, or sunk. We were compelled to struggle the whole night with a boisterous sea, in hopes that, when day appeared, we might effect a landing on the coast, and shun the rocks which surrounded us on every side.

Having taken every precaution, I went into the boat with a few of the sailors, and desired they would throw to us some ropes from the ship, to moor our boat, by which means they might pull the boat again to the vessel, in case we were lucky enough to get a safe landing. This was the only method we could think of for preserving the Captain, his mate, and about three-fourths of the hands, who did not incline to hazard themselves in the boat, for the first trial.

Scarcely had we made two strokes with the oars, when the ebbing and flowing of the waves tore them from the hands of the rowers, and the boat was overset; the waves parted us, and cast us all on the shore, except the Sieur Devoise, brother of the Consul of Tripoli, in Syria. I plunged again into the sea, and was lucky enough, at that instant, to snatch him from the grave.

Our unfortunate friends on board the ship, had now no prospect of assistance from us; but I speedily endeavoured to refresh them with hope; and for this end again threw myself into the water, accompanied by Sieur Yan, who always zealously supported me. He soon engaged the rest to assist us in attempting to recover the boat, which we did with much difficulty. Our labour was however abundantly repaid, when we had brought the whole crew safe to land.—Thus did we escape this first danger, only to fall victims to a second vastly more terrible.

I inquired at the Captain, at what distance he supposed we were from Senegal; but his answer was not satisfactory. Ignorant to what hand we should turn, I informed my companions in misfortune, that I could not flatter myself with the hopes of conducting them to any village of the tribe of Trargia, where I might perhaps have been known by some Arab who had relations at the island of St Louis. “In this case,” said I, “our captivity would have been shorter and less rigorous; but I am afraid we may fall in with some hordes of the tribe of the Ouadelims and Labdesseba, a ferocious people, who live in a manner truly savage, who always wander through the deserts, and subsist on the milk of their camels.”

We had no sooner landed, than I persuaded my companions to ascend the rocks to discover upon what country Providence had cast us. When we reached the summit, we perceived a vast plain, covered with white sand, and interspersed with certain plants, resembling branches of coral. These plants carry a small grain, of the same colour, and almost the same shape, with mustard. The Arabians call it Avezoud: they gather it and make it up into a paste, on which they feast. We observed that the distant hills were covered with a species of wild fern, which bore the appearance of an extensive forest.

In proceeding towards the hills, I found some camel’s dung under my feet, and soon after observed the animals pasturing here and there. There remained therefore no doubt of the country being inhabited, a discovery which was very agreeable to us; for although we were entirely ignorant what sort of people they were into whose hands we had fallen, we were very happy in the thoughts of approaching some inhabited village, as hunger began to press very hard. I knew better than any of them, from former experience, what we had to fear from hunger, and still more from thirst.

I was occupied with these dismal reflections, when I observed at a distance some children eagerly gathering together their herds of goats, and driving them away before them. I instantly concluded that we were discovered, and that our presence had occasioned some terror amongst them. The cries of the children spread the alarm to the neighbouring camps, and the inhabitants very soon appeared coming out to meet us. When they had observed us a little, they separated from one another, skipping and bouncing about upon the sand; they covered their faces with their hands, and screamed out with horrid cries. We had now every reason to believe these people were acquainted with Europeans. Their gestures, and operations in order to surround us, bore no favourable aspect. I therefore charged my unfortunate companions, by all means to keep together, and to proceed in order, till I should be within hearing of the natives. In my former voyages to Senegal, I had acquired a few Arabian words, which I hoped would prove useful on this occasion. First, then, I fastened a white handkerchief to the top of my cane, in the manner of a flag. Perhaps, thought I, they may have some acquaintance with this signal, the rather, if any of them may have seen it at Senegal, or if they have observed any vessel on their coasts, they may perhaps conceive that we are unhappy Frenchmen whom shipwreck has thrown on their coasts.

When we drew near to the savages, some of our people, among whom were the first and second lieutenants, went apart from the rest; they were immediately beset and seized by the collar. It was not till this moment, that, by the reflection of the sun upon the polished steel of their poignards, we observed they were armed. Ignorant of this, I had consequently advanced without fear. As the two unhappy men who had been seized did not appear again, I did what I could to compose my companions; but my attempts were vain; terror seized them, and they all began to cry out in despair, and disperse from one another. The Arabs, armed with great cutlasses and small clubs, fell upon them with incredible ferocity; and I soon saw some of them lying wounded, and others stript and naked, stretched out expiring on the sand.

Amidst this horrid massacre, I observed an unarmed Arab. From his appearance, I conceived he was one of those who had accompanied Prince Allicoury, in a former visit which he made to the Isle of St Louis. I immediately ran up to him, and threw myself into his arms. After examining me some time, he cast a disdainful look on me, on the Sieur Devoise, the mate of the ship, and five others of my companions who never would leave me, sufficient to convince us our situation was not more favourable than our neighbours. He then took my hand, examined it attentively, counted my fingers, slipped his hand into mine, and, after making several motions with his head, he inquired at me, Who are you? What are you doing here? How came you hither? I traced upon the sand, the figure of a ship, and by means of a few Arabic words with which I was acquainted, and my gestures, I succeeded so far as to make him understand, that I entreated his assistance to conduct us to the place appointed for us. I also informed him, that I had about me what would abundantly repay him for his trouble—an argument which I found he more readily understood, and much more weighty in his mind than any other; for he immediately entwisted his fingers with mine, to show me that, from that moment, we became closely united, and upon the spot desired me to give him the effects of which I had spoken. I then delivered to him two very elegant watches, one of which was a repeater, with their chains, a gold buckle for the neckcloth, two pair of silver buckles, a ring set with diamonds, a goblet and silver cover, and the sum of two hundred and twenty livres in specie. I easily observed that if the jewels were acceptable, the silver was much more so. He concealed his treasure with great care and secrecy in his shirt, which was blue, promising me at the same time, that he would not forsake me. The precaution which I had taken to preserve these jewels, in the hope of gaining, by their means, the good will of any person into whose hands I should fall, proved in the end a cause of very great regret to me.

As soon as my Arab had secured his booty, he inquired upon what coast we had been shipwrecked. I pointed it out to him, and he immediately called upon some of his people, whom he desired to follow him. From the manner in which they approached him, I perceived that my protector was a man of some note; indeed he proved to be their priest, whom they called Talbe.

Having reached the sea-shore, they began to raise a great shout of joy; but the jealousy which was visible on their countenances, speedily damped their spirits. They wished that we would swim to the ship, and recover all that possibly could be saved; but we excused ourselves, alleging that we could not swim; and they were thus obliged to go themselves. It was impossible for those who remained on the shore to conceal their fear, lest their neighbours who swam should be greater sharers in the spoil than they. The women, in particular, showed excessive uneasiness on this head.

Meanwhile, the news of our shipwreck spread quickly through the country, and the covetous savages flocked from all quarters, in such numbers, as could not fail to excite suspicion: they soon came to blows, and several of them lost their lives. The furious women who could not reach the ship to pillage, fell upon us, and tore from our backs the few remaining clothes: they attached themselves particularly to me, because mine had been better preserved, and therefore merited the preference.

My master, who was a very great warrior, and who perceived that the number of Arabs was continually increasing, called two of his friends, whom he had, very craftily, made sharers with him, in the property of twelve of the shipwrecked people, who had surrendered themselves to him. This was the best expedient to form a party, and to preserve the share which he had in reserve for himself. After having made the necessary arrangement, for securing his share of the booty taken from the ship, and the slaves which he had acquired, he separated us from the crowd, putting us under shelter to prevent our being insulted. This was a miserable hut covered with moss, and situated more than a league from the sea, where we were all lodged, or rather crammed together.

The first care of our patron was to visit us frequently, fearing that we should conceal any thing from him. Unhappily for my comrades, they could get nothing preserved, from the harsh manner in which he treated them. He stripped them even to their shirt and handkerchief; and gave them to understand, if he did it not himself, others would. He seemed inclined to come to the same extremities with me, but I observed to him that I had already given him enough; so he left me undisturbed.

I had not yet learned into what tribe we had fallen. In order therefore to get information, I addressed myself to our master, with whom I had the following conversation, partly by words, and partly by signs. “What is your name, and to what tribe do you belong? and why have you fled from the companies which are more advanced upon the sea-coast?”—“My name is Sidy Mahammet del Zouze; my tribe is that of Labdesseba; and I fled from the Ouadelims, because we could not live on good terms with them. But as to you, what is your name? and are you brother to these people?” (pointing to my companions). I answered all his questions; but was not a little distressed to learn, that we had fallen into the hands of the fiercest of all the inhabitants of the Arabian Deserts. I foresaw, from this hour, what distress and uneasiness we were to suffer, till the time we should be delivered.—Well, then! how shall that be? Alas, I durst not any longer flatter myself with this idea.

My fears were too well founded. My master, after having secreted in the sand the little treasure with which I had enriched him, returned to the sea-coast, to see what further accrued to him from the pillage of the ship. During his absence, a troop of the Ouadelims came to attack our retreat. They plundered, pillaged and ransacked the whole; they seized us, some by the neck, and others by the hair. Two of them turned to me, took hold of me by the arms, and threw me sometimes on the one side, and sometimes on the other. The few clothes I had remaining, seemed to be the object of their jealous fury. Others at the same time running up to me, surrounded me, lifted me up, and dragged me to a lonely place, and after having pulled off my shirt and neckcloth, they threw me behind some heaps of sand. There they committed every sort of outrage on my person. I thought I was now in my last moments, and expected I should expire under their blows. The ropes they had prepared to bind me, seemed to announce death to me. I was thus cruelly perplexed, when one of my master’s associates came running up to us quite out of breath. “Stop,” cried he, “you have committed unheard of enormities in the hut of Sidy Mahammet, our Talbe. Not satisfied with carrying off his slave, you have trampled under foot, in your fury, the sacred books of our religion. The priest enraged at your sacrilegious conduct, has required the old men of the two parties to assemble, and judge the culprits in open council. Believe me, returning the slave is the only way you have to appease his rage, and to prevent the consequences.”20 This threatening produced the effect intended by the messenger of Mahammet. I was delivered back into his hands, by those who had treated me so cruelly after separating me from my companions. And he carried me immediately away, to deliver me up to fresh torments.

Nouegem (this was the name of my deliverer) conducted me straight to the place where the council sat, and when he had presented me, he thus addressed them. “Behold the slave of Mahammet, I have followed him the whole day, not to lose sight of him; and after many fatigues and dangers, I have delivered him from the hands of those who had carried him away. I demand, as a reward for my trouble, that he shall be numbered with my slaves. I have a better right to him, as I have seen him deliver to his master a great many articles, which appeared to me to be very valuable.” I immediately saw a multitude of women and children, who assembled around me. They examined me attentively, and cried aloud all at once, “Es Rey!”

Sidy Mahammet, enraged at what Nouegem had revealed concerning the treasure, as well as the pretensions which he had so boldly advanced, cast upon him a contemptuous look, a dreadful frown of rage, and immediately replied, “Whether this Christian be Rey (King) or not, he is mine; he threw himself into my arms of his own accord; I have promised to protect him, and conduct him to Allicoury. I have pledged my word, and I hope this tribunal will know how to make a distinction in favour of my rights, between a man of my character and a man like Nouegem, who deserves the severest punishment from me.” One may form some idea, from this discourse, of the pride of Arabian priests.

“Since you make such pretensions,” the Arab quickly replied, “and he cannot be mine, he shall perish by my hand!” So saying, he lifted his poignard to strike me. I stood trembling under the threatening sword of this barbarian; but my master, without loss of time, threw upon me a kind of chapelet21 of incredible length; and then took up a little book, which hung by his girdle; at the same instant, the women, rushing towards me, drew me from under the hand of Nouegem, and put me under those of the enraged priest, as they all dreaded, he was to pronounce an anathema on his opponent. The council in a body approved of this act of authority of the Talbe. They laughed very much at the women’s behaviour, of which they at the same time approved.

At some distance from the place where this scene had been transacted, I found my comrades, who never expected to see me again. But, Great God! in what situation did I find them!—they now began to feel the first horrors of famine. They had eaten nothing for two days; nor was my own case better; but the awful dilemma, into which I had been thrown, so agitated my spirits, that I had even ceased to feel the hunger which preyed on me.

In a little time, when I became somewhat calmer, I reflected on the danger, which I had so fortunately escaped and my mind was so much affected that I could not refrain from tears. I endeavoured to conceal from those around me, this evidence of my sensibility and distress; but some of the women beside me, observed it, and in place of being affected with my situation, they threw sand into my eyes, to dry, as they said, my eyelids. Happily the night, that screened me from their view, saved me from the rage of these monsters.

We had been now three days in slavery, and had as yet got nothing to support us, but a little meal, not more corrupted by sea-water, than by a mixture of barley meal, which had been long kept in goats skins; but even this wretched repast was interrupted by alarming cries, which we overheard at a distance.

One of Sidy Mahammet’s friends ran up to him, and advised him to hide himself very quickly, because the Ouadelims were arming from every quarter to carry off their seizure. “Fly with your slaves,” said he, “whilst I gather together some of ours, and at break of day we will proceed on our march to regain our habitation.” I have since learned that the tribe of Labdesseba, had only come to the sea-coast about three days before our shipwreck, to gather together the wild grain for the support of their families. They appointed the place of rendezvous; meantime, we were to conceal ourselves behind the hillocks of sand, where we should remain, till some Arabs of another tribe, but equally interested in preserving their booty, should come to join us, and reinforce our troop. A guide, who should go before us, was to place at little distances, small pyramids of stones, to point out to us the road which we should keep, and to prevent our falling into the midst of some hostile village, more especially of the Ouadelims. The fact was, these people are so avaricious, whether friends or enemies, there is equal cause to be suspicious of either. At break of day, all those who had Christian slaves joined us, and we all proceeded on our march for the interior parts of the country, where the families of our respective masters resided.

It is impossible to describe our sufferings on this journey, especially from thirst. We had such difficulty to move our tongue, that we trembled to ask the smallest question. We were obliged to follow the track of the camels, by which our march was hastened; and dreading our being carried off, our masters caused us to make so many different counter-marches, that we were fifteen days in reaching their habitations—a journey, which we could have accomplished in five, had we followed the direct road.

After having climbed over mountains of a prodigious height, which are wholly covered with small pebbles of a greyish colour, as sharp as flint-stones, we descended into a sandy plain, overspread with thorns and thistles. There we slackened our pace; the soles of my feet were bleeding so much, that it was not in my power to walk any further. My master then desired me to mount behind him on his camel, but this attention on his part was far from giving any ease to me, but on the contrary proved a source of inexpressible torture. The camel is naturally a very dull animal, with a very hard trot. As I was naked, I could not defend myself from the rubbing of the hair of the animal upon me, in such a manner as quite flead me in a very short time. The blood ran copiously down the flanks of the animal—a spectacle which, so far from exciting the compassion, or moving the pity of these barbarians, only contributed to their diversion. They made game of my sufferings, and to heighten the jest, pushed forward their animals. It would certainly have issued in incurable wounds, if I had not adopted a scheme, very violent though necessary, to slip off and walk on the sand. I received no other damage in dismounting, than my body being universally jagged with the thistles and thorns with which I have already mentioned the ground was covered.

As night approached, we observed a very thick smoke. I supposed we were drawing near to some village, where we might procure something to eat, or rather to drink; but was soon convinced it was only some thick bushes, where our guide had taken up lodgings. I therefore stretched myself out behind a bush to wait for death; and had scarcely lain down, when an Arab of our company came to me, ordering me to get up, and assist him in unloading his camel. I was very much enraged at this order, and answered him accordingly without ceremony. He immediately drew from under my head, a little old sailor’s hat, which had been given me in place of my own. He spit upon it as a mark of contempt, and, seizing me violently by the arms, he drew me towards the camels. When he thus laid hands on my body, I could no longer command myself. I immediately struck him a blow on the face; then, having disengaged myself from his hands, I seized a baton which he had armed with a lance, and run up to strike him; but, running away, he escaped from my rage.

I at the same time observed my master advancing to my assistance; but as I did not know his design, I cried out to him, that if he intended to avenge his comrade, he would find me determined to resist, rather than suffer myself to be beat any more. My determination and threatenings made him laugh; notwithstanding, he relieved me of my uneasiness, assuring me that I had nothing to fear. This adventure served likewise to convince me, that by firm behaviour, I might shun much of that bad treatment to which I would be exposed by showing any timidity; and I experienced in the sequel that this idea was well founded. The Arabs show their courage most when they meet with no opposition.

Meantime I observed they were making preparations which very much alarmed me. They made red hot some stones in a great fire, then, raising up a great stone which lay at the side of a bush, they dug a hole in the earth, and the Arabs, repeating my name, raised great bursts of laughter. At last they called upon me, and desired me to approach the hole which they had digged. The man I had stuck, made several different signs with his hand. He crossed and recrossed himself on the neck, as if he meant to cut it, hereby signifying to me, that I would be cut there myself. Notwithstanding my resolution to defend myself, all these gestures displeased me not a little. But what was my surprise, when I saw them draw up out of the the ditch, as I approached it, a goat’s skin bottle full of water, a small leather bag, which was full of barley meal, and a goat just killed! The sight of these provisions perfectly restored my tranquillity, though I remained ignorant to what purposes the stones which were on the fire were to be applied. At length I saw them fill with water a great wooden vessel, into which they turned the barley meal, while the red hot stones thrown into the water served to make it boil. It was thus our masters dressed a sort of broth, which they then kneaded with their hands, and eat unchewed. As for us slaves, we had nothing to eat but the same kind of paste. The Arabs threw it to us upon a kind of carpet, which our patron generally spread below his feet, when he repeated his prayers, and which he employed as a mattress during the night. After having kneaded this leaven a long time, he gave it to me, that I might divide it among my companions. One can hardly conceive how disagreeable this leaven was to the taste. The water with which it was mixed had been procured upon the sea-shore, and had been preserved afterwards in the skin of a goat newly killed. To prevent it from corrupting, they had mixed a kind of pitch with it, which rendered the smell of it doubly noxious. The same water was given us to drink, and, bad as it was, our allowance of it was extremely small.

The Arab whom I had struck, observing that I was complaining, gave me the remainder of his broth, and told me that to-morrow we should eat the goat that had been killed for us. This he made me understand by signs. I informed him, partly by signs and partly by words, how much I was surprised to have found these provisions. He took the same method of telling me, that the guide, who went before us, had procured them for us from a village in the country, and that he had concealed them under ground, to keep them from the sight of the Moors, in case they should pass that way. These particulars surprised me, though I confess, it was still more astonishing to me, to find the resentment of this Arab turned into acts of kindness and complaisance. Our repast being ended, each of us lay down to sleep behind a bush.

At break of day, we heard the voice of our masters, ordering us to gather together the camels and load them. After doing as desired, we pursued our journey, carrying with us the small remainder of our provisions. It was nearly mid-day when we stopped in a great plain, where we did not find so much as a single tree to screen us from the sun, which darted right upon our heads. There we were employed in unloading the camels, and in pulling up roots to make a fire, which was a very painful operation, as all the trees, roots and herbs, were thorny. When the fire had thoroughly heated the sand, the goat was wholly covered with it; and we were employed in keeping fuel to the fire, while our masters regaled themselves with the raw fat of the goat: they appeared to consider this as a very great rarity. So soon as the meat was baked, and withdrawn from the fire, our Arabians, without allowing us time to clean it from the sand, devoured it with incredible voracity. After having thoroughly gnawed the bones, they made use of their nails for scraping off any flesh which remained upon them; they then threw them to us, with orders to eat expeditiously, and reload our camels, so that our journey might not be hindered.

The sun was just about setting, when, by the reflection of its rays (for in this country the sun sets every day in a red sky), we discovered tents scattered up and down upon a little eminence, and flocks which had come there for pasturage.

The inhabitants of the village came out in throngs to meet us; but in place of showing us any of the pleasant duties of hospitality, they loaded us with injuries, and made us suffer very inhuman treatment. Two of my comrades were brought into a very pitiable situation. The women particularly, much more fierce than the men, took delight in tormenting us. Our masters could not make any great resistance; they appeared; on the contrary, much better pleased that they should teaze us, than meddle with the lading of the camels.

While I was at some little distance from mine, I suddenly noticed a man, who aimed a blow at me with a double-barrelled gun.22 I presented him my breast, and desired him to strike. The firmness of my countenance, with which he had been doubtless little accustomed, astonished him. This served the more to strengthen my opinion, that one might impose on these people, by assuming an undaunted appearance. As I approached to this man, a stone thrown from an unknown hand, but which I supposed to be that of a woman, struck me on the head. I lost recollection for a little; but when I recovered, I exclaimed in a very violent rage, and demanded satisfaction with vehement cries. I found this method very serviceable in striking terror among these children. The savages who were gathered around us, not knowing the cause of my exclamations, began to run away. Meantime one of them, before he went off, gave me a blow with the butt-end of a gun, which made me vomit blood. If I could have discovered the fellow who struck me, I should certainly have avenged myself. Reduced to complaining, I did it with such vehemence that I raised the curiosity of many of the monsters. They inquired of my master who I was? “He is,” answered he, “a very rich Christian, and possessed of a great quantity of guns, balls, flint-stones and scarlet cloth.23 That you may understand, what a man of consequence he is, we had access to see that he was very richly clothed, and that his linen was perfumed with a very agreeable odour;24 and to know, that Prince Allicoury and all his retinue had paid him a visit.”

I believe I escaped much bad usage from his saying that Prince Allicoury had paid me a visit. To enforce this idea still more, I counterfeited his buffoons, whom they called Egeums. This kind of farce so much pleased my master, that he made me repeat it as often as he found opportunity. He made use of this stratagem to divert those among them, whom he suspected as inclined to pilfer, and thus cunningly occupied their attention. No sooner did he make known my talent for imitating the Egeums, than I was surrounded by men, women, and children, who constantly bawled out to me ganne, (sing then). I had no sooner finished, than I was obliged to begin again; and this I was constrained to do, not only to amuse them, but (why should I not own it?) to procure a tasting of camel’s milk—as a reward for this my mean buffoonery.

We rested one day in this village, where the inhabitants, however ill they behaved at first, did not fail to give us provisions for three or four days. The plains which we passed over in proceeding towards the east country, were covered with small stones as white as snow, round and flat as a lentil. As we proceeded, we perceived a dull sound under our feet, as if the earth had been dug out below us. This country presented no variety to us; the ground was a continued plain, without producing even the smallest plant. The atmosphere was loaded with a reddish vapour. The whole country appeared as if filled with flaming volcanoes. The small stones pricked us, as if they had been sparks of fire. Neither birds nor insects were to be seen in the air. The profound silence which reigned was something frightful. If at any time a gentle breeze arose, the traveller immediately found himself affected with an extreme languor, the lips with chopping, the skin with a burning heat, and the whole body covered with small pimples, which occasioned a very sharp and disagreeable smarting. Our guides, who had gone far up into the country, to shun some tribes whom they had much cause to fear, were not luckier than we in escaping these disagreeable inconveniences, which we suffered in this part of our journey, where the fiercer animals would not enter. The rays of the sun darted upon the stones, and I feared, every minute, that their scorching reflection would have finished me.

We passed through this vast plain into a second, where the winds had furrowed the sand, which was of a reddish colour, at little distances. A few sweet smelling plants grew on the top of the furrows, which were immediately devoured by our camels: they were no less famished than ourselves. We had the happiness, on quitting this sandy plain, to enter into a valley surrounded with mountains, where the soil was white and slimy. At the foot of some tall shrubs, of which the branches were artfully formed into an arbour, we found some water, of which we stood in great need. We therefore drank of it with much pleasure, although it was very bitter, covered with green moss, and of a noxious smell.

We found some compensation however, in the evening, by falling in with a horde, which was encamped at some leagues distance. They received us very kindly, and pointed out to us some villages, where they informed us we could receive all necessary assistance for prosecuting our journey to the residence of our patrons. This was an event particularly fortunate for us, as our guides had lost the way.

My master’s brother-in-law was one of the chiefs of this village, and paid particular attention to all the slaves. He gave us some camel’s milk, and flesh of ostriches dried in the sun, and chopped small. I know not why, but he soon showed a partiality towards me; and accordingly, coming up to me, he said, “Unfortunate Christian, my brother has been indebted to me for a long time, if you will put yourself under my care, I will settle the bargain with him.” This proposal made me tremble; it appeared to assure me of a long captivity. I believed so certainly that mine was to be short, that I ran immediately to my master, to prevent his agreeing to his brother-in-law’s proposition. I entreated him by no means to consent to any terms. I made him understand that he would get more for my ransom, than his brother would give him. “Set yourself at ease,” replied he, “you shall not leave me till you go either to Senegal or Morocco, and that will be very soon.” This hope filled my heart with inexpressible joy. Meantime, notwithstanding the gratitude which I felt towards Sidy Sellem, his proposal did not fail to give me considerable uneasiness. He perceived it, and told me, that he would make me repent not having accepted his offer. I attributed this threatening to his desire of possessing me; but I found, in the sequel, he was as good as his word.

After three days rest among the Arabs of the tribe of Roussye, we resumed our journey, in order to get home to the families of our conductors as quickly as possible; though it was not till after sixteen days, in which we endured much fatigue and distress, that we arrived, extenuated and reduced to skin and bone.

At break of day, we discovered a hamlet that seemed to promise a very pleasant dwelling. Several tents pitched among thick bushy trees, numberless flocks feeding along the sides of the hills, made us conceive it to be an asylum of happiness and peace; but upon closer inspection, the appearance of it was much altered. The trees, whose beautiful green foliage we had admired, proved to be nothing more than old gummy stumps, with their few branches, entwisted with thorns; so that their inaccessible shade spread out on every side. They very soon after observed us upon the declivity of a little hill, which led us to the dwelling of our masters.

Several black slaves, who had commonly the charge of the camels, came out to meet their masters, to kiss their feet, and inquire the news of their health. At a greater distance, the children made the air resound with their cries of joy, and their wives stood erect, as a mark of respect, at their tent-doors, waiting their arrival. As soon as they approached, they advanced with a submissive air, put their right hand upon the head of their husband; then, having kissed them, fell down prostrate before them. This ceremony over, they regarded us first with a look of curiosity, and then proceeded to abuse us. Not content with that, they spat in our face, and threw stones at us. The children, following their example, pinched us, tore our hair, and scratched us with their nails. Their cruel mothers called out first to one, and then to another, encouraging them, amusing themselves by causing them to torment us. Unhappy as we were, exhausted with fatigue, hunger, and thirst, we looked with impatience towards the hour of our arrival, little expecting the fresh trials which awaited us.

Meantime, our masters made a division of their slaves. When mine had received the caresses of all his family, I inquired of him, which of the women who surrounded him was his favourite. He pointed her out to me. I approached, and presented her with two handfuls of cloves, which her husband had very carefully kept, and wished me to present her with, in order to gain her good wishes. I learned that Moorish women were very fond of odours, and in a very particular manner of cloves. She received my present with an insulting haughtiness, and pushed me into the tent with disdain. Immediately after, this woman, the most wicked of all whom I had known, hated by all her companions, such was the blackness of her character, came to order us (viz. Sieurs Devoise, Baudre and myself, who had fallen to the share of her husband) to unload the camels, to clean a kind of kettle, and to gather roots for making a fire. While she was thus employed in giving her orders, her dear husband was lying fast asleep on the knees of one of his concubines.

The hope of soon regaining my freedom, gave me the necessary spirit to support me under the hardships which this wicked woman made me suffer. I therefore went out to make faggots; but what was my despair to find, on my return, my two companions lying felled with blows, and stretched out on the sand. They had been thus abused, because their strength was totally exhausted, and they could not execute the task which she had enjoined them. I awakened my master with my redoubled cries; and although I could not speak his language well, I made shift to support with him the following conversation:—“Did you bring us hither to kill us by the hands of this cruel woman? Remember the promise which you made me. Conduct me without delay to Senegal or to Morocco; otherwise, I assure you, that though I should perish, I will cause to be taken from you, though I cannot do it myself, all the treasure which I have given you; I will certainly find a master who will treat me with more humanity than you have done.”

My rage was excessive. Many of the neighbours, witnesses of my transport, were gathering about us. This was very disagreeable to my master, who feared lest I should cause him to deliver back the valuable effects I had given him. He came to me, took me in his arms, and pushed me hastily into his tent, and entreated me not to make such a noise. He then presented me with a bowl of milk, “Carry that,” said I, “to my companions, who are expiring for want.” He assured me they should have some, and besought me to be quiet. I showed him my arms all torn and running with blood. “Recollect,” said I, in my bad language, “how, when we were shipwrecked, you cried out, beholding my hands, these hands have never been accustomed to hard labour; and immediately you engage me in the most painful employment. Your countrymen experience in my country a very different treatment.” He seemed astonished to learn that the Moors ever came to France. “We shall talk of this another time,” replied he; “in the mean time, make yourself easy. I will take care of you as my own son.” Then, addressing himself to his wife, “I forbid you to exact from him the least service which may be painful to him, and I at same time prohibit him from obeying you in it. See that some meal be boiled for the slaves; I will return ere long to see if my orders have been executed.” From this hour the favourite vowed implacable hatred against me.

Meantime, the month of August drew towards a close, and no preparations were making for our journey. I therefore inquired at Sidy Mahammet, when he proposed to conduct me to Senegal. He told me, that he was in search of two very strong and vigorous camels, that could endure the fatigues of this journey, and that we would set out when he could procure them. I entreated he would make as little delay as possible, as the nights were now turning cool. The dews began also to be so heavy, as to wet us, in our retreat behind the bushes, where we spent the night. It is true, that even the dew proved serviceable in one case, as, by gathering it in handfuls upon our naked bodies, it served to quench our thirst, which the coldness of the night did not extinguish; and we preferred this drink to our urine, a resource to which we were often reduced. I spoke a second time to our master on the subject of our journey, who answered me in such a manner as convinced me it was not from want of inclination he delayed. “Think you,” said he, “that amidst such excessive heat, we can possibly travel without a store of provisions, especially water? We have much cause to fear, that, on our approaching Senegal, the river which surrounds it will have overflowed the plains; we will also be in danger from the Arabs, of the tribe of Trargea, who are our enemies. I tell you the truth,” continued he, “we will be obliged to wait till the month of October; about that time, the rains will water the deserts, and afford us pasturage for our camels; it will be impossible for us otherwise to subsist during so long a journey.” I fully perceived the justice of his reasoning, and resolved therefore to have recourse to patience.

The heat was so excessive, that the flocks, half-starved, could find no pasture, and the sheep and goats returned in the evening with their dugs almost empty; and yet it was their milk and that of the camels which was to supply food for a numerous family. One may judge from this, how much our portion was diminished. As we were Christians, even the dogs fared better; and it was in basins destined for their use that we received our allowance!

One day the keeper of the camels complained grievously that he was ashamed to serve a master who was so weak as not to keep his slaves to their duty. His wife did not fail to support this complaint in such a manner, that her husband, long accustomed to be her dupe, persuaded me, that, to prevent murmuring, he would appoint Baudre to that charge, as he was the youngest. Soon after I was obliged to take an equal share of the sheep and goats. The Sieur Devoise, on account of his age and bad health, was exempted from every sort of servitude, but his situation did not free him from cause of complaint, as he was constantly exposed to the savage treatment of the cruel Arabs. I happily escaped this by my new employment.

One day, as I was returning with my flock, one of my sheep brought forth a young one upon the side of a hill. I took it in my arms, and proceeded to carry it, with equal haste and care, to my master’s favourite. I presented it to her when I reached home, supposing that she would receive it with the same pleasure which she had lately shown on a similar occasion. I asked her at the same time, if she would give me the first milk of the mother, as it was customary to give it to those who had the charge of the flocks. By way of reply, she threw a great knife at my legs, and drove me from the tent with disdain, and loading me with abuse. Her husband, who had been witness of her brutality, came to me with an assurance, that, by way of recompense, he should appoint me a very large share of the milk. I had uniformly given credit to his promises, but how much was I astonished, when, in passing by the back of the tent, I heard that rogue joining his wife in her laugh at the stroke which she had given me. I was provoked; but my anger was not a little increased in the evening, when I began to seek the milk which had been promised to me, my mistress came to me in a rage, and took it out of my hands to give the half of it to her dog.

It now drew near the end of October, and a single drop of rain had not as yet fallen. My situation became every day more and more disagreeable. I had no sort of clothing, but a piece of packcloth about my middle, and was thus wholly abandoned to nature.—Feeling minds!—convey yourselves for a moment to my desert!

The plains and valleys were entirely burnt up, and nothing remained for the nourishment of the cattle. The season was far advanced; it was now the month of December, a period when the rains usually were over till the next October. For three years this bounty of heaven had been withheld from the inhabitants of these deserts. We were now entering upon the fourth year of drought, to be exposed to the most horrid distress, and almost inevitable death. The desolation was become universal, when an Arab from a distant part of the country came to inform them, that abundant showers had covered several cantons where he resided. Joy then succeeded to fear and distress. Every one struck his tent, and all set out together, to seek a habitation in these newly watered districts. This was the thirtieth time they had changed their habitation, and renewed our fatigue in consequence; for these hordes never remain above twelve or fifteen days in the same encampment. I was continually employed in lifting and cleaning the tents, and had the charge of the baggage. Often they compelled me to carry very heavy burdens, in order to ease the camels. I was too happy when the flocks followed in pretty good order, and did not give me the trouble of gathering them together.

My unfortunate companions were so exhausted, that they were able to do nothing; the consequence was, that the whole drudgery fell on me; and I shared with them the little food which I procured, by labouring to make myself useful; for our master gave them nothing to eat.

At length we arrived at the desired place, where I hoped soon to regain my freedom; but my master, who had hitherto connected the most persuasive language with the blackest treachery, ceased to dissemble longer, and made me endure the most horrid tyranny.

We were now encamped upon a sandy soil, so very moist, that a gentle pressure of the body made the water spring up around us in considerable quantities. Happy would we now have been with an osier netting to lie on, or a coarse carpet of wool, with long hair, to cover us; but these conveniences the Arabs themselves are strangers, to, except those who are rich. During the night, a carpet served for a covering to a whole family. “Sidy Mahammet,” said I to my master, “See, is it possible I can long exist in such places? Allow me a covering under the tent. I suffer much from the cold at night, and the ground on which you make me lie is very wet. I have made your fortune, and you promised in return to use me as your son, yet you abandon me!”—“It is true,” replied he, “I did promise you my friendship, and I will at this moment give you a particular proof of it. Your situation, you say, is unhappy, but it will be much better than you imagine. Tell me, what is the destiny to which you are appointed? Fire and flame await you, to torment you through all eternity. Have you considered well your religion?” I quickly replied, and pointed out to him its excellency. He heard me for some time, and then went away, telling me, he preferred a bowl of churned milk to all the absurdities of which I had been talking.—Alas! there is no kind of torment, which this fanatical priest would not have made me endure, to compel me to embrace his religion.

Messieurs Devoise and Baudre, who had heard all this conversation, (which I have here much abridged,) assured me it was very satisfactory. They promised themselves some mitigation of their sufferings. The hour of milking the camels being come, they called me to receive my own and my neighbour’s portion. When I saw our portions were somewhat larger than usual, I concluded it was the good effect which my morality had produced; but, on tasting it, we discerned that the increase of quantity was owing to rain water, of which they had now doubled our dose, so that we had nothing but whitened water to support us. This soon weakened us to such a degree, that we were reduced to the hard necessity of seeking our meat with the beasts. The wild plants, which they were trampling under foot, with raw snails, were our only nourishment from this time, till the time we regained our liberty. Meanwhile, he continued to prepare new labours for me. I now had the charge of putting the camels in the plough, labouring the ground, and sowing it; while my master, not content with employing me in his own service, hired me out to other Arabs for a morsel of milk. I would certainly have sunk under this fatigue, if, from time to time, I had not found opportunity to steal some handfuls of barley. It was by this theft (which I am satisfied was a lawful one) that I preserved my life.

“You see,” said I to my master, “with what submission I labour with all my power. I make faggots, churn the butter, keep the flocks, pull up roots, prepare the camels hair, which your wife is to spin, labour the ground, and in short do every thing you exact of me. I have enriched you, and you will not vouchsafe to give me a few rags to cover me.” Other Arabs, more compassionate, and always jealous of his being in possession of my riches, which they valued at an infinite price, threw the same in his teeth one day. This determined him to call me to him, when he asked me in their presence, if there was any person at Mogador (which they called Soira) who would pay a good ransom for us? I told him they would to his content. “In that case,” replied he, “there is a Jewish merchant who passes this way to-morrow, ask paper from him, and I will permit you to write to those from whom you expect assistance.” The Jewish merchant25 passed accordingly, and I wrote a letter, which I addressed to the Consul at Soira, or in case of absence, to his representative. I entreated him to have a feeling with our calamities, and to send us speedy relief. I mentioned to him the best and most certain method of sending to seek us out, and the only one to make use of to procure us ready deliverance.26 This letter I committed to the hands of the Israelite, and I appeared to myself as if already at liberty—too flattering hope!

A young Moorish girl, whose flocks fed often near mine, relieved me of my mistake, and made me acquainted with the character of Sidy Mahammet. “If he thought he durst,” said she to me, “he would not treat you any better than he does your companions; nay, perhaps, he himself would take you to a private place and kill you, so little would he be startled at committing a crime; but then he is afraid of his two brothers, who have a very strong attachment to you. If he promise you liberty, it is only to amuse you. He durst not even send you away, for fear that Muley Adaram would cause him to be arrested, and take from him all that you have given him, perhaps even his life.”

This Muley Adaram27 was a son of the Emperor. Having heard vague reports of the effects which I had brought with me, he supposed that I was a very rich Christian; and, in consequence, travelled more than a hundred leagues, in order to make a purchase of me. I was, however, very happy that I had not fallen into the hands of a prince, so cruel as to revolt against his own father.

This conversation of the Moorish girl extinguished every ray of hope, that I should ever regain my native country. My mind was much agitated, and I sank into a state of depression and melancholy. Ever after that day, I experienced continually fresh causes of distress.

I now no more met with any of my unfortunate companions in the fields. I much regretted the loss of the Captain’s company. I had been accustomed to it, and found a kind of consolation in talking over with him our hardships, and the hope of soon being again blest with the sight of our own country. One afternoon, that the coolness of the air had led my camels to stray a little farther from home than usual, I was obliged to follow them to a neighbouring hamlet.—My God! what a horrid spectacle there presented itself!—the unhappy Captain, whom it was scarcely possible to recollect, except by the colour of his body, lying stretched out on the sand. He had one of his hands in his mouth, which extreme weakness had doubtless prevented his devouring. Hunger had so altered his appearance, that he now presented to the eye only a horrid carcass. All his features were wholly effaced.

A few days after, the under captain (Baudre) fell down quite exhausted behind a green bush, being left a prey to the attacks of a monstrous serpent. The famished ravens frightened away the venomous animal with their cries, then falling upon the dying man, they tore him into pieces. Four savages, far more cruel monsters than the furious reptile, were witnesses of this scene, but left the poor unhappy man to struggle in vain. I came running up to endeavour to save him, if in time; the barbarians stopped and insulted me, and then told me, “The Christian was going to broil in flames.” I left this place of horror, not knowing where to bend my steps. My camels and sheep directed me. I would have been incapable of reconducting them to their fold. It is impossible to form an idea of the sensations by which I was agitated at this time. My tears fell abundantly, while the most dismal forebodings increased my grief. When I arrived at the tent, I no more knew what I was doing. I constantly imagined I saw the carnivorous birds flying through the air, with pieces of the flesh of my unfortunate companion in their bills. My master, astonished at my disordered situation, inquired at me what was the matter with me, and why I changed the bindings of the camels. “Go,” replied I, “to a little distance there,—go and behold what have been the consequences of your cruelty, and that of your wife. You have suffered my comrade to perish for want, because, by his ill health, he was not able to labour; you refused him milk to support him, when his situation was such as demanded in a particular manner your help!” While I thus spoke, I concealed my tears, which would only have afforded a laugh to these monsters. They ordered me to go and search the girdle, all covered with the blood of the unhappy victim of their barbarity. I was struck with indignation at a proposal so shocking. The commotion I had undergone, and the ferns which I had eaten to assuage my hunger, occasioned very severe vomitings, which were followed with extreme faintness. I had, however, strength enough left to retire behind a bush, where I found another unhappy wretch. He inquired the cause of my complaints, and if I had seen Baudre? “He is not far off,” replied I, unwilling to speak more plainly; but my master’s sister, who came to bring us milk, cried out, “Be assured that at this very moment, the ravens are feasting on the entrails of Baudre; the time is not far distant, when you will be fit for nothing else.” Notwithstanding my extreme weakness, I was much disposed to give this tigress an answer; but in consideration of the condition of my companion, I resolved to keep silence. If I had been the first to inform him of the matter, I might perhaps have been able to have softened it in the recital; but, there was no time, I was prevented, and could only mingle tears with him.

My health, which had been preserved much better than I could have expected, began now to fail. The skin of my body had been already twice renewed. A third time, with inexpressible pain, I found it was covered, if I may use the expression, with scales, like those of the Arabs. The thistles upon which I walked, had torn my feet to the quick; I could not longer support myself. In a word, the great dogs which they continually hunted after me, and of which I could not get quit, till I had received some cruel bites, altogether tended to make me quite unfit for keeping the camels. To complete my misfortune, about the end of February and March, the excessive heat dried up the water which we had found in this district, and not so much as a single drop of rain had fallen to moisten the ground which I had sowed. Our flocks, finding no more pasturage, were upon the point of perishing, when at last, the two tribes of Labdesseba and the Ouadelims, after having consulted, each for themselves, resolved to go in search of lands occupied by more industrious inhabitants. The Ouadelims carried their ravages as far as Guadnum, about 300 leagues from the place where we had been encamped. Some hordes of the Labdesseba, who were not of so wandering a disposition as the former, remained behind; and as they were not so numerous, they found subsistence for their flocks in the neighbouring districts. They killed some sheep, and thus supported themselves till the end of the following month, at a time when we ourselves were upon our march to get out of the deserts, where extreme misery threatened all the inhabitants.

I was in the dismal situation I have already described, when we accidentally fell in with an Arab, who had in his retinue a Christian slave, whom I immediately recollected to have been baker aboard our ship. This Arab proposed to my master to give him a good bargain of this slave; so that, as he was by no means disturbed in what manner he was to find subsistence for him, he agreed to give a camel in exchange for this new slave, who was employed in my usual occupations. I had then time to recruit a little. The unhappy baker paid very dear for the food which he knew how to procure.—But let us not anticipate upon these matters.

After having eaten all the snails we found in our circuit, we were supported by the sheep which we found dead, partly by hunger, and partly disease. This suggested to us the idea of stifling in the night some young kids, knowing well that our masters would throw them away, as their law prohibits their eating the flesh of any animal whose death is not occasioned by a stroke.

This little scheme, however, occasioned too frequent deaths, and it became observable that the goats, who appeared in best health at night, when the flocks were gathered in, were generally those that were found dead next morning. Our wants gave reason to suspect us, and at length we were taken in the act. We were, however, acquitted for past injuries, with an assurance, that, if we resumed the plan, it should cost us our heads. Meantime, it was necessary for us to bethink ourselves on some new plan of subsistence. Thanks to my good constitution, my strength was recruited, and I was now able to make faggots, for which I found ready sale, as in that country there is no season of the year in which the night can be passed without fire; and the women, who have the charge of these matters, are too lazy to go themselves to cut wood. My little trade procured me thus sufficient milk for my own support, as well as a little to spare to poor Devoise, who was very sick.

As I was preparing to go out one morning to make faggots, this friend spoke to me as follows, in a voice scarcely audible: “All illusion is at an end; from this moment I will no more flatter myself with the hope of ever again seeing my native country. I feel my strength gradually decline. This night, yes, this night, my friend, (for surely you deserve that name, after what you have done for me), you will find nothing here, but a corpse cold and dead. Fly, my dear Brisson, fly this hated abode. Try every scheme you can devise to escape if possible; you were surely destined for happier days. If Heaven hear my vows in the moment I yield my breath, it will restore you to your wife and unhappy family. Adieu, my friend, the tears you attempt to hide are fresh proofs of your attachment. Write to my brother; assure him that my last words are about him; and that I die with the sentiments of real Christianity. Adieu, my last hour is nearer than I expected; I expire!”—In reality, he died that moment.

Some children, who had been witnesses of my grief, and the cause of it, soon spread the news through the village. My master’s sister run up to us, and went off immediately laughing very heartily, and saying that it would be so much milk saved. Some neighbours, who I believe were moved to pity me, by my sobbing, came to carry me away from the lifeless body. They offered me some milk, though at the same time they turned my distress into ridicule. “Why,” said I to them, “do you condemn the tears which I shed for my friend? I have seen you in similar cases, roll upon the sand and stones. I have seen your eyes bathed in tears. Do you suppose our souls are not possessed of the same feelings with yours? Deceive not yourselves. In this common calamity we are all brothers and friends.” I could not say more to them. I found it impossible to remain long in the presence of these beings, who had the human shape, but were more ferocious than the most formidable and horrid animals.

Although I had not been acquainted with M. Devoise previous to our departure from France, I was very sensible of his loss. The pleasantness of his manner, his equal temper, acquaintance, and, above all, the similarity of our situation, had contributed to connect us in the strongest ties of friendship. I regretted his loss exceedingly; I went into the fields, to meet again with the only companion I had now remaining, and we retired together with our flocks, the keeping of which became daily a more disagreeable task, on account of the scarcity of pasturage.

On our arrival, we were ordered to lift up the body of our friend, and bury it in a deep ditch, that, as the Arabs said, they might hide from the eyes of their children, the sight of a Christian. We paid him this last duty with much pain, for our weakness was so great, that we could not carry him, and were therefore obliged to draw him by the feet near three quarters of a league; and the earth which surrounded the ditch we had dug, having failed under me, I fell in first, and I believe I fainted away under the weight of his carcass.

Some days after, we quitted these fields to seek a more fertile spot. We encamped in the neighbourhood of different tribes. I recollected by the name Denoux, one of the seamen, who had been enslaved together with me. I asked him the news of his companions. “Six of them,” he told me, “were carried off by the Emperor’s son, a very short time after our shipwreck; they had repassed into France. M. Taffaro, chief surgeon, died with the blows of a club, by which he had been struck on the head. The Sieur Raboin, under lieutenant, died since, in terrible sufferings. The others, to escape the horrors of famine, had renounced their religion. As for me, Sir, it will not be long ere I follow those that are in their graves. See what a condition I am in! There is no kind of base treatment which I do not daily suffer.” “Alas! my poor lad,” replied I, “do not give up yourself entirely to grief. If it prove true, that six of your companions have gotten safe again to France, the Ministry will soon be made acquainted with our situation; their orders will speedily follow the first feelings of their hearts; they will cause search to be made for us, and I doubt not that we will soon see the end of our miseries.”

Indeed, I have since learned, that upon the first news of our shipwreck, M. le Marechal de Castries, had given the most positive orders for our redemption. But the Sieur Mure, Vice Consul, to whom the orders had been addressed, in place of acting agreeably to the instructions of the minister, employed himself wholly in making his court to the Emperor of Morocco and his officers, whom he loaded with considerable presents, at the expense of the Court of France.

This agent could have procured our liberty, by applying at Guadnum, to some Arab or Jewish merchant, who, in consideration of 100 piastres (500 livres), would have traversed every corner of the Desert, and who, it might be fairly inferred, would have been satisfied with a sum considerably less, when he had not to go farther than the neighbourhood of Morocco. As soon as he would have been appointed to conduct the Christian slaves to Mogador, the Arabs would have brought them thither from all quarters, in order to receive the ransom for them; and they would have been glad to have employed what money they received, in purchasing wheat and barley, which may be had in abundance at Santa Cruz in Barbary. But the Vice Consul, by his negligence, prolonged our misfortunes. The Arabs, our masters, were very unwilling to undertake so long a journey, which is at the same time both troublesome and dangerous, without the hope of some reward. The Sieur Mure contented himself with informing the minister, that he had given the strictest orders that a proper search should be made for us. The conduct of Sieur Mure was so blameworthy, that, lest he should consider me as a vile traducer, I did myself the honour to make it known to his masters. It was my duty, as a Frenchman, and a friend of mankind.

On the other hand, what praise ought I not to bestow on Mess. Deprat and Cabannes, merchants at Mogador! It is to their patriotism that the return of the greater part of the unhappy shipwrecked persons is to be attributed. The extensive trade which they carry on in the interior parts of the country has established their reputation in all the towns, as well as in the capital. If their advice had been followed, how many accidents and misfortunes would have been prevented! I have reason to believe, that this charge is now committed to the Consul General, who will particularly interest himself in the redemption of any unfortunate persons who may be shipwrecked on that coast.

But to return to my narration. I had daily in mind the information of the sailor, and could not imagine how we came to be thus forsaken, when they had such opportunities of redeeming us. I was reflecting one day upon the probable causes of this neglect, when, upon retiring behind my bush, I was surprised to see my master’s camels return without their keeper. It was already late, and he was not yet appearing. They called to give me my portion of milk, and I had not yet seen the poor keeper. I inquired at them where he was? They gave me a reserved answer, and drove me away. The forbidding appearance of my master and mistress, made me tremble for the baker. I longed for day, to inquire after his fate. Early in the morning, a young keeper came to tell me that Sidy Mahammet, who suspected the baker of sucking the milk of his camels, and had accordingly watched him, having taken him in the fact, had seized him by the throat, and strangled him. “Take care of yourself,” added the young keeper, “a Christian, who touches the dugs of our cattle, profanes them. The proprietor, or any other Arab, has a right to punish with death whoever he finds transgressing; I have forewarned you. Take care, then, lest you commit such a piece of sacrilege.”

I had great difficulty to give credit to a story so very infamous. I ran to the tent, and demanded an explanation of what the young man had told me. A general silence confirmed the truth of what I had just learned, and I gave myself up to the most unbounded rage. Every one ran. But my master’s brother-in-law was the only person who discovered any signs of compassion towards me. “Why,” said he to his brother, “did you not sell me these slaves, when I offered to purchase them? What pleasure or profit can you have in thus occasioning a miserable death to them? or why treat you thus cruelly the only one that remains? You confess that he deserves regard; nay, you suppose him to be a king; the riches he has given you, I think, should engage you to treat him handsomely.”

This last reflection raised the jealousy of the by-standers. They all unanimously appeared to favour my cause. But Sidy Sellem was the only person who spoke through his benevolent disposition. The rest did not speak after him, as a mark of respect to his great age and riches. This was the same Sidy Sellem, of the tribe of Larroussye, who had treated us so kindly after our shipwreck, and who had forewarned me that I would one day repent having refused his offer of purchasing me.

I was now the only slave in the village. I had no person to whom I could communicate my distresses. My situation became daily more and more unhappy; yet I determined with myself to be no longer affected so deeply with it. “After having supported, with boldness, so many dangers,” said I to myself, “I have to this hour gone through extraordinary fatigue; my health enables me to encounter still fresh trials; let me support them with courage, and perhaps Providence will soon cease to try me farther.”

This resolution, and the manner in which I had conducted myself towards those who were wishing to depress me, had procured me some attention amongst these savages; insomuch, that they permitted me to lie, from time to time, behind their tents, and even, to drink at times out of their vessels. My master left me in peace, and did not require that I should keep the camels. It is true, he no more spake to me about restoring me to liberty; besides, I would have given very little credit to any thing which he would have said. His treachery towards me had convinced me that I could place very little confidence in him.

I was obliged, however, to continue making faggots, to procure subsistence; but I was often thrown into fits of inconceivable fury by thirst. One must have experienced the torment which I endured, to form an idea of the extremities to which it is possible to be reduced. I saw that the Arabs themselves were in the greatest distress. Many died of hunger and thirst. The season promised no relief to them. This was the fourth time that drought had destroyed the harvest. This cruel situation had so much rankled the dispositions of the inhabitants of the different tribes, that they went to war among themselves. They made it their business to kill as many of their cattle as they could, and dry their flesh, as the milk had almost entirely failed. The water was now very scarce; there was none to be found in any part of the Desert, but in the neighbourhood of the sea-coast, and it was brackish, black, and noxious. This wretched drink, together with the scarcity of pasturage, had driven almost all the Arabs from the coasts. The provisions having failed, no person durst settle in the country; thus were we circumstanced, when I had opportunity to observe what necessity could teach man to do. The camels which we killed, served to supply with water those Arabs who had least milk. They preserved, with great care, the water which is found lodged in the stomachs of these animals. They separated it from the dung; and, by pressing it, they procured a greenish water, in which they boiled their victuals. That which they took from the bodies of the goats, tasted like fennel, and had a very agreeable flavour. This water is far from being disagreeable; that of the camels is much less pleasant to the taste. But what astonished me most was, that these animals, who did not taste water oftener than twice or thrice in a year, and who were fed upon dried plants, should preserve in their stomach a prodigious quantity of water; the camel in particular.

Providence, which had not wholly forsaken me, continued still watching over my days, which I seemed inclined to cut short, by exposing myself to the dangers of a battle. Life was now a burden to me. In the hope of putting an end to my course, I asked leave of my master to go to the places where his cattle feed, and to join the inhabitants in defending themselves against the pillagers. My offer was accepted; he gave me a beast to ride on, and a pistol, the only fire-arm which he had in his possession; he then addressed his prayers to obtain from heaven the preservation of his camel, and the prosperity of the arms of those of his party. I advanced then, with the pistol in my hand, accompanied by a relation of my master’s. I arrived, with my conductor, in the midst of the warriors. They fought in the most disorderly manner; I did not know whether one party fled, or if they rushed upon one another; I could see nothing but a multitude of men, and a cloud of dust, and could not conceive how they could distinguish one another. My camel, which doubtless had been unaccustomed to such expeditions, marched slowly into the midst of the enemy’s fire. My conductor was soon separated from me, and I saw him fall dead by a blow, which struck him on the head. My camel, affrighted, made some dreadful capers, and threw me ten paces from him, upon a heap of sand. Immediately, a foot soldier made up to me, aimed a blow at me with a pistol, which missed me, and he instantly fell down at my feet. Another Arab came up with a poignard in his hand; he attempted to stab me in the breast, when, by a kind of miracle, in lifting his hand round his head, he entangled his arm in his turban, which flowed upon his shoulders. I took that opportunity to strike him a blow with the butt end of my pistol, and pushed him so roughly, that he fell down in a state of insensibility. This was the only use I made of my arms. I had nothing wherewith to recharge the pistol, although, in general, they never go to battle without at least four or five rounds of ammunition. It had twice missed fire with me. These accidents frequently happen with them, as both their arms and powder are very bad. However, the battles of the Arabs are very quickly decided. The greatest harm these savages do to one another in their skirmishes, is by tearing the face with their nails, and striking with the poignard. The camels, generally accustomed to these battles, throw themselves with loud cries into the crowd. They bite and disperse their enemies more readily than armed troopers could do.

When the conflict was ended, many of the Arabs came to me, saying, that I had fought well, very well indeed. They were convinced I had killed three men, although I had only wounded one. I however allowed them to enjoy their opinion, and took care to empty my pistol, that my character as a warrior might not suffer.

Since Providence still spares me, said I then to myself, I can try every method to escape. I projected a scheme to get away, and to carry off from my master all the treasure which I had given him. With these effects, I proposed to go over to another tribe. Mark my reasonings. If any Arab should meet me, he will not wish for a more favourable opportunity to secrete himself, in order to put my booty in safety, and I would engage him to conduct me quickly to Morocco. This project appeared to me to be an excellent one. Ignorant of the road which I must take, and the dangers which I ran, I hasted to put it in execution. It succeeded so far very well. I concealed myself in a hole till the morning, with a design not only to carry off the treasure, but also either a good or bad covering, as it might occur, to defend me from the cold.

Sidy Mahammet soon observed that his treasure was amissing. He ran quickly to the foot of the bush where I lay. Entreaties, threatenings, and caresses, were all employed, in order to prevail upon me to return his goods; and above all, he entreated me not to speak of them to any person. “I swear to you by Mahomet, by all that I value most,” said he to me, “that I will cause you to be soon conducted to Mogador. I promise that I will make you a free man the very first opportunity. Restore to me, I beseech you, that which you formerly gave me. If my wife, who is just about being delivered, comes to learn my misfortune, it will affect her very seriously; she will lose her infant, and perhaps her life. Think what evils you will occasion.”

This observation of Sidy Mahammet would not have affected me greatly, had I not recollected during the night, that it was very possible I might fall into the hands of some unfortunate wretch, too poor to undertake so long a journey, and who, to make sure of what I had, might put an end to my days with his poignard. I made a virtue of necessity, and pretended to restore them, because of his entreaties. I remarked what ascendancy his fear gave me over him, and assured him, that if he broke his word, I would most certainly take again all that I had given him. He renewed his oaths, and promised to give me punctually, for the time to come, a portion of milk, evening and morning. He kept his promise, but never went from home. He feared that his neighbours, with whom I had constant intercourse, and especially his relations, would hear of the seizure which I had lately made, and that some other time his dear casket of jewels might be taken from him for ever. I believe he now sincerely wished to get quit of me, and Heaven soon furnished him with an opportunity, which I had so long wished for.

Chance conducted to the place which I had bathed with my tears, Sidy Mouhamet, sheriff of the tribe of Trargea. He saw me, and asked who I was. He was made acquainted with my history; they boasted to him particularly of my great possessions at Senegal, in powder, guns, &c. The sheriff immediately called me, and inquired what was my situation at the island of St Louis. I answered his inquiries. He observed me a little more attentively, and then cried out, Are you Brisson? Alas! Yes, I am the same. He was immediately surprised. Do you know that Christian, added he, all the property at Senegal is his. This man had imagined, that all the effects in the king’s magazines, which he had seen me order to be delivered, were my own property. My master’s brother-in-law, encouraged by these few words, did not hesitate long in making a purchase of me, which he did for five camels.

I did not know of this bargain being concluded, when I was one day struck all at once with surprise and joy. I had returned with my master from giving the camels drink (for the third time in three months), and his wife had ordered me to go and carry into the neighbouring tent a leathern bucket which she had borrowed. Sidy Sellem, whom I have just mentioned, was there; he called me, and ordered me to prepare to go with him the next day to Mogador. I had been so often flattered with this hope, and had so often been disappointed in my expectation, that I could not persuade myself that what he said was truth. However, some persons who heard what the Arab said to me, assured me that it was no deception. The old man himself again protested this to me. I threw myself at his feet, I wept, I sobbed, I laughed, I did not know where I was. Alas! who can estimate the value of liberty? or form an idea of what I felt, when I understood that my fetters were indeed broken?

My first master called me, and told me I was no longer his property. “I have fulfilled my promise,” added he, “you shall again see your native country.” I forgot in that moment all my resentment, and gave myself up to unbounded joy. It was no small addition to my satisfaction, when I understood I was to have a companion on the journey. “We are to meet with some others at a little distance,” added he. How little did I expect to find the unhappy baker there. I asked at him, when I saw him, by what miracle he had been raised from the dead. “Alas!” he answered me, “I know not how it comes to pass that I am not indeed dead. Sidy Mahammet surprised me one day sucking a she-camel. He ran up to me, gave me several blows, and grasped me so hard by the neck, that I fell down almost lifeless at his feet. I was greatly surprised, on recovering from my trance, to find myself alone. I found my neck was all bloody, and you may see the marks of his nails at this hour. I crept upon my hands into a hole in a rock. The echo frequently caused the voice of my barbarous master to resound in my ears; he had come again a little after in quest of me, or at least to see what was become of me. Not having fallen upon the place where he thought he left me expiring, he called upon me on all sides; but I would not answer him. I had resolved with myself, either to perish with hunger, or to reach the borders of the sea, in hopes of seeing some ship. I arrived at length, after ten days travel, having nothing to support me but snails, and urine for my drink. The sight of a little fishing smack, which had anchored near the land, redoubled my strength. I ran as fast as I could by the water’s edge, endeavouring to make them observe me by signs, and to get the captain to send a boat for me. But I had scarcely entered upon the rocks which border on the sea, when I was seized by two young Arabs,28 who dragged me to some distance from the sea-coast. The fright occasioned by having fallen into their hands, disappointment in having failed in my enterprise, and particularly hunger, had altogether reduced me to such an extremity, that I would certainly have expired, had not they very quickly given me some support. They took very great care of me, and from that day became my masters. I had the charge of keeping their goats, for they have no other flocks, nor any other livelihood but what they procure by means of their fish. They appeared to be a much more pleasant people than those who inhabit the inland part of the country; they are more industrious. About fifteen days afterwards, they informed me they were to conduct me to the Sultan; and if they carried me thither, I believed they would meet with your master at the rendezvous, and inform him that they had arrested me. I much wished, Sir,” added he, “that you had been with me, well convinced that you would have been happier, for I found no cause to be displeased with these people. They often spoke to me about you; it appeared that they all had known of you.29 But at last we have met. What are they to do with us? Are they to conduct us to the Emperor of Morocco?”

After having heard the baker’s history, I answered his inquiries to this purpose, that we were to set out to Morocco, but that we had a very long journey to make. “We have much to suffer,” added I, “as we must follow the track of the camels; I know not, besides, on what we are to subsist, for we have no she-camels, and of consequence can have no milk. I am persuaded we will be obliged to beg our way from village to village, which will greatly retard our journey.”

The next day the inhabitants of the tribe of Trarge assembled around Sidy Sellem, and made a long prayer; after which they brought both to him and us a kettle full of broth, prepared with meal of a wild grain, of which I believe I had formerly heard them speak. They added to this mess a large portion of milk, and their best wishes for a good journey to us.

Sidy Mahammet bade me a very affecting adieu. “Adieu, Brisson,” said he to me, “you are about to undertake a very long and troublesome journey. You may easily conceive what reasons I have to fear the exposing myself to it. I wish you may have a safe journey, and that your sea-voyage may be more fortunate than the last; adieu, forget not to send a piece of scarlet cloth to my wife. You will give it in charge to Sidy Sellem. Adieu, my friend Brisson.” The tears which accompanied these last words would certainly have imposed upon me, if I had not known how capable he was to deceive. However, the pleasure I felt in getting away from him, enabled me to express some gratitude. I engaged to send what he wanted for his wife. He assisted me in mounting a stout camel which was appointed for me and the baker, but we were obliged to leave it a few days after; we were not the only persons who did so. These animals not finding pasturage, were not in a condition to continue the journey; besides, the camels in this country are not able to endure so much fatigue. On the other hand, we were not able to keep our seats very long, as they had no saddles. We were therefore obliged to walk on foot the rest of our journey. Judge what I suffered, when the sand penetrated into the wounds of my feet, and when the thistles opened these wounds again afresh. I frequently fell down without expecting I would be able to rise again. At the same time I had frequently to turn, sometimes to the right, and sometimes to the left, to reassemble the camels which fell behind; and we were often obliged to make counter marches to avoid these hordes of Arabs, whom we had reason to fear might pursue us.

One day,—Alas! the recollection of that unhappy day will long be imprinted on my memory!—we descended into a valley which was covered with verdure by the rains which had lately fallen. My master therefore made a halt here, in order that the famished camels might get a little nourishment. He ascended to an eminence, upon a high mountain which surrounded part of the valley. He sat down a little there, while his own beast and the other camels should feed, as he meant to carry them to the city and sell them. I passed on before him to reach the summit of the mountain, supposing that to be the road which we were to follow. What confirmed me in my opinion was, that the old man permitted me to continue my journey, and I also observed the path which I took was a beaten one. At length, having reached the top, I went to a little distance from the road, to shake my long beard, which was constantly filled with vermin, notwithstanding all my care. Having lain near an hour quiet behind a bush, without seeing any of the travellers appear, I returned again to the edge of the hill. My God, what was my astonishment when I could see no person! Where are they? Which way have they gone? What road shall I take? As the hordes which encamped in this neighbourhood came thither to feed their flocks, a great number of different roads met here. I could not think of any other way, than to cry aloud different times on Sidy Sellem. At length I observed at a distance four or five Arabs, who were coming up towards me. I ran to meet them, supposing them to belong to our company. I soon discovered my mistake; a great dog, and one of the stoutest of the barbarians, made up to me at the same time. The Arab aimed a blow at me with the back of the blade of his sabre, which struck me on the head. The others coming up, drew me among the rocks, where they had an asylum, and there prepared to place me in a frightful situation.

See then the hope of recovering my liberty entirely lost! My slavery promised to be harder now than ever. I was absorbed in these reflections, when the assassins conducted me to a declivity, which led to a place, where they expected to hide me from the sight of their companions. Suddenly I observed our flocks, and our little caravan, to the number of twenty persons, in a valley which surrounded the mountains. I luckily escaped out of the hands of my plunderers, and found as much strength, as enabled me to reach to my old man. The vagabonds affrighted, took to their heels.

My master reprimanded me severely, and charged me never to separate from him again. I complained on my part, that he had not stopped me, when he observed that the road which I pursued, was not that which he himself was to take, and by his silence, I supposed I was right; in a word, that he had gone off without calling me back, and that he had not sent any person in search of me. He gave me for answer, that he had not stopped me in the road I had taken, because he intended to follow me immediately; but he had been under the necessity of going after the camels, who had strayed through the valley, eating the green herbs, of which they had been long deprived. “I was preparing to overtake you,” said he, “at the very moment, when the sound of your voice reached me, and apprised me both of your danger, and of that to which I would have been exposed in following you. But I durst not risk my camels, nor hazard my own life, to preserve yours; we have, besides, no time to lose; let us escape as quickly as possible, from a place, in which I am in as great danger as yourself.” In consequence, we doubled our pace, for the following six hours, and made a cross-march, in order to deceive those who might be disposed to follow us. We eat no food the next and following day, until the evening. I had taken nothing for my support for two days, but a few handfuls of wild succory, which I had gathered in the fatal valley.

The day following, we were in an open country. We had passed over the hills, and travelled through plains, filled with calcined flint-stones, which resembled smith’s charcoal. Above these stones, arose at a little distance, a whitish earth, upon which we saw great trunks of trees, heaped upon one another, the roots of which were torn off. The bark was entirely stripped off, and the branches, brittle as glass, were twisted like cords. The wood was of a yellowish colour, like the wood of liquorice, and besides, the inside of these trees was filled with a powder, very hard to the touch. All this announced to me a very extraordinary revolution. I was anxious to learn, if these trunks had any taste of sulphur; but neither the wood, the dust enclosed in the heart of the trees, nor the calcined stones, had either taste or smell.

At some distance, we found the mountains of a prodigious height, appearing as if they were piled one above another. The rocks, which were detached, had formed, by their crumbling down, as it were precipices. Others, suspended in the air, threatened to crush in pieces the traveller below. Others, again, in their striking one upon another, by receiving in their shock, slimy earth, which hurled down continually, formed frightful caverns. The surrounding valleys were filled with rocks, which appeared to rise one above another, and produced new masses, not less frightful. To conclude, it appeared like a long range of mountains, from which pieces of a great size were frequently falling, which were reduced to dust, before they reached the ground.

From another side issued two fountains, one of which drew along with it, in its course, a black slimy stuff, which occasioned a sulphurous smell. The other, separated from the first, by a small isthmus of sand, from twelve to fifteen paces broad, is clearer than crystal. The taste of these waters is pretty agreeable; the bottom of their bed is filled with small stones of various colours, which presented to the eye a delightful prospect.

It was in the same place I observed a singularity, which I submit to the understanding of my readers. In a valley, which appeared at first sight, to be very much circumscribed by the number of surrounding mountains, across threatening vaults, formed by the falling of different rocks, heaped upon one another, I discovered an immense region, which astonished me by the variety which it presented to our view. At the first entrance of this valley, the ground is moist and furrowed, as if rivulets had formerly winded through it. The borders of these furrows were covered with many beds, and thickly spread over with a nitrous kind of ice. The rocks, which served to enclose them, were covered with the same, and had a near resemblance to cascades. The thick reddish roots, and the branches, covered with leaves, like those of the laurel tree, crept across the different crevices. At a greater distance, on advancing towards the west, we saw pyramids of great stones, as white as alabaster, towering one above another, which seemed to indicate the border of a bank, and above which very high date-trees grew up, of which the trunks were warped round even to the top. The palm trees, extended upon a mass of stones, by their length and colour, gave proof of their antiquity. Others, lying across here and there, and wholly stripped of their bark, afforded a very dismal spectacle.

I split one of the palm-trees with my nails, and put a piece of it in my mouth; it had a taste, at once bitter and salt, but no smell. Those which were overturned, fell in pieces immediately upon my touching them; and the filaments which remained under the bark, were covered over with a saltish powder, as clear as crystal. The roots which hung far down from the rocks were glutinous, and the bark broke off with the least touch. I plucked up several branches of wild laurel, from which I immediately distilled some white drops, one of which, having fallen upon my hand, occasioned a very smart pain, and a black spot, which took off the skin. I durst not venture to taste it. In a word, the stones, the nitrous beds, the overturned date-trees and others, enveloped to the very top the immense plain covered with an extremely fine salt, the ground cut and furrowed, which appeared to have been turned up by the torrents, those rent mountains, if I may use the expression, all seemed to indicate, that at some former period, the scum of the sea had been carried into these places. I asked at Sidy Sellem, if we were far from the sea, and if ever it had passed that way? He told me, that we were perhaps the first of the human race who had landed there; that he was looking for the sea, which ought to be before us, in order to discover the places where, he had been told, some Arab camps were to be found, among whom he had friends who had accompanied him in a journey to Mecca.

“Keep yourself easy,” added he, “the sun is my guide, he will conduct me where I wish to go. You may therefore follow, without fear, the footsteps of the camels.” Indeed, I thought that I walked with considerable ease; but it was not long, when I began to feel excessive pain, as my feet, severely torn, were filled with a kind of saltish dust. How greatly was I astonished, when, after two days’ travelling, I found we were on the brink of the sea, and perceived below me the rolling waves foaming upon a frightful precipice! Towards the east, where I then was, its course was limited by immense rocks. On considering this elevation, I could not persuade myself, that ever this element had carried its waves to such a height. The rocks, said I to myself, would then serve for a bed to it. I lost myself in my conjectures;—besides, I set out at first to report facts, and it is not my province to make learned dissertations.

After some days journey farther, gradually advancing towards Morocco, we found other mountains no less elevated than the first, covered with stones of rose, violet, citron and green colours, and I observed extensive forests at a distance. I had not seen any before all the thirteen months I had been in the deserts. I was astonished to see the trunks of trees coming out of the centre of rocks, and to appearance hanging down like fruits. I saw with surprise also the roebucks running after one another, upon these same trees, leaping on the hanging rocks with incredible velocity, when they perceived any one following them. The moment one of them took to flight, the rest immediately followed. I observed, among many other trees, that of which the leaf resembled the gum-tree, or our parsley, to be the only one of the different kinds which I had seen, in all these countries, that had suffered from lightning. The thunder had no influence upon the rest.

We travelled through the forests for three days. We had spent already four nights, and, during that time, had not heard any thing of the fierce animals, with which the deserts of Africa are overspread. They must certainly inhabit the country which lies far to the eastward; but how do they procure water?

The more we advanced, the more my distress abated. We frequently found fields of barley ready to be reaped. I sat down and ate, with a degree of pleasure which I cannot express. The water now also became more abundant. On every side, we frequently fell in with villages, where we were well received. In others, where we would not have been so safe, Sidy Sellem was much respected, as he had formerly made a journey to Mecca. However, the Arabs of the tribe of Telkoennes exceeded all in their attention to us.

After having paid Sidy Sellem all the customary honours due to a stranger, they caused to be set before him, at the usual hour, barley, meal, and milk. He gave me the remainder of his supper, which I went to eat apart with my new comrade the baker; for, especially on a journey, a Christian ought neither to eat nor drink, and far less to sleep, beside his master. My repast being ended, I dug a hole in the sand, in order to screen myself from the cold. To prevent the sand from entering into my eyes, I covered my head with a piece of packing-cloth, which I wore about my middle. But I had scarcely closed my eyes, when I heard the report of two gunshots, which appeared to have been fired hard by me, and immediately I was seized by the body. I very readily threw off me the covering of sand which I had made myself, and which was warm. One of those who held me, asked me if I was wounded. I supposed that the fire, which had taken hold of my linen, had come from the wadding of the gun. “No,” replied I, “but on what account do you treat me in this manner?”—“Sir,”30 answered he, “follow us.” My master, who had been awakened by the report of the gun, ran towards the place where he had heard my voice. He complained of their abusing in such a manner one of his slaves, and that they had violated the laws of hospitality towards such a man as he was. The Arab of the mountains, in reply, told him, with an imperious tone, that during the night he watched his flock, not knowing that I belonged to his retinue; and having seen a man conceal himself in the sand, he had supposed him to be one of those robbers, who, during the night, come to carry off their young goats. Sidy Sellem pretended to believe him, commended his zeal, and took me out of his hands. As soon as he imagined that the village was all quiet, he left a place where he was as much afraid of his own safety as mine.

The Arabs of the tribe of Telkoennes are the worst situated of any that I have seen in all the Desert. They live in the midst of mountains of sand, raised by the winds. One would think they endeavoured to hide themselves from the light of day, so difficult is it to penetrate into their retreats, or to find the way out of them. The plains in their neighbourhood abound with prodigious serpents. Three times I had occasion to see them frighten our camels; and the animals, when affrighted, fled, and obliged the baker and myself to take long races in order to assemble them again.

At last we approached to the famous city of Guadnum, of which I had heard so much talking for a long time past. It was across a cave of rocks, that I saw at a distance a city built upon an eminence, the environs of which announced formidable fortifications. When we drew near it, a little after, I could see no more than earthen bulwarks, almost all broken down. We observed some of the inhabitants, who appeared at small windows opposite to us. They seemed to be meditating some wicked action. The chief of the village, having learned that Sidy Sellem was the leader of this small caravan, came to meet him, attended by four negro slaves. They carried on their heads a basket of dates, which their master had presented as a mark of respect to him. “Is this Guadnum which I see?” I asked at Sidy Sellem. “No,” replied he, “it is Fort Labat. The city is very near; you may observe it.” Indeed, we arrived there two hours after.

This city, so much longed for, is the refuge of all the most resolute rebels of the different tribes. It is divided into two parts. The lower part is commanded by Sidy Adalla, There was a governor for the higher part, which is situated upon a little hill, and which very much resembles Fort Labat. Almost all the houses are built in the same manner. Four great walls occupy an immense space of ground. All those of the same part, build a house which will only admit light by the door and the top, which remains uncovered. The four walls which surround the house are very high. There is only one gate in all their circumference. This is guarded by large dogs. Every particular person has his own dog to protect himself; and without this precaution, although enclosed within walls, would have no security against the depredations of any neighbour more daring, or more skillful than himself.

I could not reconcile this general mistrust with the considerable trade which was carried on in this city. I saw two markets in it, which certainly were not inferior in any respect to the largest fairs in the provinces of France. Though specie of different kinds circulates here, I am inclined to think that their trade is principally carried on by barter. Fine wool may be found here in great abundance, and, above all, woollen stuffs, half white and half crimson, which are used by the inhabitants for their dresses. The merchants who purchase them, in order to sell them in the interior parts of the country, give camels in exchange.

Their ordinary profit is four hundred per cent.; and on these articles they gain much less than on wheat, barley, dates, horses, sheep, goats, oxen, she-asses, tobacco, gunpowder, combs, small mirrors, and other toys, which are not carried to a great distance. They are consumed in certain small towns of the country, in each of which a market is held on fixed days. What is very surprising is, that the Jews are almost the only people who carry on this trade. They are, however, exposed to the most humiliating insults. An Arab snatches the bread from31 the hand of an Israelite, enters his house, makes him give him a handful of tobacco, often beats him, and always behaves to him with insolence; and yet the poor Jew must suffer with patience. It is true, that he indemnifies himself after his own manner; that is to say, by the address with which he disposes of his merchandise to advantage, and by the cunning by which he overreaches an Arab. The latter, in general, are exceedingly stupid.

I met with a Moor in this city, who happened to have been at the sea-shore the very time of our shipwreck. I owe him an acknowledgment, for he treated me well. His sister-in-law, Paphye, appeared to take a very lively concern in my situation. During eight days I spent in Guadnum, she employed me in grinding some corn. She entertained me well, and, I may say, showed me numberless instances of care and attention. She wished much that I would stay with her. But nothing can equal the generous assistance I received from Aaron the Jew, and his wives, notwithstanding the ingratitude which they have often experienced from many Christian slaves.

I left Guadnum, after having rested there eight days. On the road to Mogador, I found nothing but villages or castles, situated, for the most part, on very high mountains. At a distance, one would suppose them superb edifices, but, on coming nearer, we found them much the same with the others. We were very well entertained. The nearer we approached the city, however, we found the less hospitality. There is reason to believe the inhabitants are afraid of the affluence of foreign travellers.

We were sixty-six days on this march; my strength was exhausted, my limbs swelled, and my feet almost in a state of suppuration.32 I had infallibly sunk under it, if my master, to encourage me, had not constantly said to me, “Keep up your heart, there is the sea, behold the ships; take courage, we will be soon there.” Hope supported me; and, in a moment, when I had not the least expectation of it, at length I perceived that element of which I had so much cause to complain, and which was still to be the arbiter of my fate. Sidy Sellem, without doubt, wished to enjoy my surprise. On coming out of a labyrinth of broom, we arrived at the top of some hillocks of sand.—Oh! you who read this history, which is too true, you never can form an idea of the joy which I felt at that moment, when I again saw the flag of France, and that of other nations, flying at the stern of the different ships, at anchor in the road of Mogador, which I still knew by no other name than that of Soira. “Very well! Brisson,” said my master to me; “Very well!—Speak, wont you?—Are you satisfied?—Do you see these vessels?—Do you want those of France?—I promised to conduct you to the Consul, you see I have kept my word: but what? you give me no answer!”—Alas! what could I answer? my tears could not find vent; I could not articulate a syllable. I looked at the sea, the flags, the ships, the city, and I thought that all was a dream. The unhappy baker, not less exhausted, and equally astonished with myself, mingled his sobs with mine. My tears trickled down upon the hands of the generous old man, who had made me so happy with an agreeable surprise.

At length we arrived in the city, but still I was not without my fears. I trembled lest I should be retained as a slave. I had access to know, before I left France, that the emperor had abused M. Chenier, and that he had made his complaint at court. I had not learned if France had paid any attention to it, or if a new consul had been appointed; but in every case I had cause to fear. I was not long, however, in being set at ease. On entering the city, I met two Europeans, “Who and what are you,” said I to them, “you see my misery, condescend to assist me. Comfort me, support me. Where am I? From what country are you? What month is this? and what day of it?” I was addressing natives of Bourdeaux, who, after having considered, went to inform Messrs Duprat and Cabannes, who had made it their business to relieve any unhappy persons, whom unlucky accident had thrown upon their coast. They came to meet me; and, without being ashamed at my shocking appearance, they took me in their arms, and bathed me with the tears, which the joy of relieving an unfortunate man made them shed. “Your misfortunes are at an end, Sir,” said they to me; “come with us; we will do our best to make you forget your troubles.” They carried me immediately away with them, after having desired my master to follow us, and to make himself easy, as to any arrangements which I had it now in my power to make with him. I entreated these gentlemen to permit me to take along with me, not only Sidy Sellem, but also his son. Their house became as my own. Care, attention, friendship—all were heaped upon me without affectation. They dressed me from head to foot in their own clothes, till such time as I could get some made to answer my shape. I was visited soon after by all the Europeans who were at Mogador; they congratulated me upon the change in my condition, and particularly that I had arrived at so favourable a juncture, as that of the entry of a new consul, who had brought with him from France very considerable presents to the Emperor.

I was presented the same day to the governor of the place, who signified to us an order to go to Morocco. The king had given a declaration to that effect. He wished to see all the slaves with his own eyes, and that they should hear from his own mouth, the proclamation of their liberty.

We therefore set out in about eight days after, with a guard, which accompanied the treasure, my master, myself and the baker, as Sidy Mahammet had sent him by his brother, reserving to himself the ransom which he might receive for him. We were supplied with mules, a tent, victuals, and men to serve us. We arrived after four days journey.

The first thing I observed, was the steeple of one of the mosques, which appeared to be at a great distance. I expected to see the dwelling of ancient emperors, and other remains of antiquity, but I could observe nothing except the residence of the king of Fez and Mequinez. The walls which surround the palace are of earth, and the two corners are wholly in ruins. One would have supposed them to be the enclosure of a churchyard. The houses in the neighbourhood of the park are low, and built in the same manner as those of Guadnum, but dirtier, and not so well aired.

The guard who attended my person, presented me to the consul and vice-consul. They offered me board and lodging, till I should set out for France. A second guard very soon came to acquaint me, that, the emperor informed of my arrival, had ordered me to appear immediately before him. I therefore followed this messenger, who conducted me through vast courts, where I saw nothing but very high walls of sand, and a scorching sun, which darted right on our heads the whole day. I at length reached the palace, where his majesty’s guards are assembled. Those who attend his majesty’s person, are armed with a gun. Their dress consists of one coat of any colour, and a cloak, similar to those of the capuchin friars. They have on their head a small red cap, with a blue tassel at top. Their naked feet only half enter their slippers, which they are obliged to drag after them. They carry the case of their gun in the form of St Andrew’s Cross, and have a girdle around their body, by which hangs a cartouch box. Those who do not belong to this corps, have only a white staff for all their armour.

The horsemen are dressed in the same manner. They wear half-boots on their feet, and great spurs of nine or ten inches long, which resemble so many spikes of iron. Their horses have always their sides opened to the quick; the riders jag them continually, and appear to have pleasure in it. This is a faithful portrait of the troops of his majesty the King of Morocco.

While I waited for an audience, I saw a captain review his troops. He sat down on the ground, his chin leaning on his two hands, and his arms placed on his knees, and turned up towards his chin. He made the soldiers advance two by two, and gave them the word of command. These, having prostrated themselves before him, retired behind, and went about their affairs.

Five or six of those who were armed with clubs, seized me by the collar, as if I had been a criminal. They caused open two great folding gates, like those of our granaries, and pushed me roughly into the park.

In vain I looked around me in search of some ensign of royalty. At length, having passed a kind of bruette,33 15 or 20 paces, they made me turn about my face, and I was ordered while they pushed me roughly forward, to prostrate myself before this bruette, in which the king sat, amusing himself in stroking the toes of his foot, which he held on his knee. He looked at me for some time, and then inquired if I was one of these Christian slaves, whose vessel had been wrecked upon his coasts about a year ago, and what was my business at Senegal, &c. “Your loss was owing to your own misconduct,” said he to me; “why did you not keep yourself at large? Are you rich,” continued he; “Are you married?” I had scarcely answered his questions, when he ordered paper and ink to be brought him, then, with a small reed, which served him for a pen, he traced the four principal winds, and made me observe, that Paris lay to the northward. He then ciphered about twelve figures in French. “Do you know these?” asked he; and put several similar questions to me, to show me that he was a scholar.

“Tell me,” continued the Prince, “did the Mountaineers34 use you well or ill? have they taken many of your effects?” I hastened to answer all his questions, and informed him, that the nearer I approached to the capital, the more civil usage I met with. “I have not the sovereignty,” replied he, “of all the countries through which you have passed; or, to express myself more properly, my orders cannot be put so effectually into execution at such a distance. With whom are you come?—With Sidy Sellem of La Roussye. I know him, bring him hither.” Immediately after, my master was introduced in the same manner I had been.

The emperor asked him, if he had bought me very dear, and what were his intentions. Sidy Sellem answered him very archly, by informing him, that he had no other intention in traversing these immense regions, but to come and prostrate himself at the feet of his sovereign, and present him with the homage of his slave.35 “Do you know,” continued the Prince, “if any other of these people are to be found among the Ouadelims and Labdesseba, as it was by these tribes they were all seized?” My patron answered him very humbly. “Yes, Sir, and they may be very easily collected together, if you issue orders to that effect.” The emperor did not push this conversation farther; he commanded one of his guards to attend me and the baker, upon a fresh order; and that we should eat in the royal kitchen. This man expressed no little surprise, that the Sultan should have condescended to converse so long with a slave.

The next day, the consul called me back before the guard, saying, that when the king inquired after me, the guard should come and seek me in his house. I had then appointed for my dwelling, a cave, which had formerly been the residence of the Spanish ambassador. The emperor, willing to pay the same attention to the envoy of France, gave him the same lodging.

This palace, which was the best the emperor had in his disposal, was nothing else than a long cave dug in the earth, the vault of which was supported by two ranges of pillars. The descent was by a small stair, and there was no air but what was procured by small windows, placed on the head of the vault. The emperor keeps here his tents and war equipage. In fine, naked walls, spiders webs, bats and rats, were all that we could see in this dwelling. This building stands in one of the finest situations in his majesty’s gardens, which are adorned with olive and quince trees, pomegranates and apples. The four high walls which surround them, gives one the idea of a state prison. It was in this place that the emperor lodged the ambassadors, or representatives of powerful foreign nations, and did not provide them with a single piece of furniture. He contented himself with ordering them a certain quantity of beef, mutton, poultry, bread and water.

His majesty’s own palace consisted of six large courts, surrounded by walls. The outside of the seraglio resembled a granary. The mosque is built in the same manner. I know not if the inside is any thing more agreeable, but there is nothing in its exterior to please the eye. The city is separated from the palace by masses of clay. The filth and bones of beasts which have been killed, heaped upon one another, serve, to use the expression, as a girdle to the capital. These pyramids of nastiness are ever to be found within the city. They prevail even on the tops of the houses, and keep out the very light of day. The sun, which beats upon these hills of filth, exhales the putrefaction from them. The houses, ill built, resemble hogsties, and are very ill aired. The streets are narrow, and partly covered with beds of straw.

One day that the New England ambassador, who had taken lodgings in the city, the consul and myself, were taking an airing on horseback, we were obliged to alight. The people, under bad government, or rather without any, run before us, and interrupted us in our journey, as we had no guards to escort us. Without this precaution, a person runs the risk of being cut in pieces. In spite of all the care I could take, I got a stroke on the head with a stone. But I neither could discover from whence, or by whom it was thrown. Take this as a just specimen of the city of Morocco.

The character of the inhabitants differs very little from that of those of the deserts. They are not quite so stout, and rather fairer. They are more accustomed to the sight of Europeans, and therefore are less surprised with it, but they are equally addicted to the practice of insulting them. I have seen many of them enter into the houses of the consul and M. Duprat, sit down, and without asking it as a favour, demand of them something to eat and drink; nay, even require that they should give them what they thought fit to ask. A porter, who had no other trouble than to open three times to the consul, the gate of the court where the emperor was, came with great effrontery to him demanding a gratification. He gave him some silver pieces, with which he was far from satisfied. He therefore continued holding out his hand, and crying Zit (give more, this is not sufficient), with an arrogance equally ridiculous as his demand.

The secretaries and writers behave in the same manner; they impose their demands on all who have any concern with them. The principal crown officers are still more greedy of presents, and especially of great piastres, of which the value is 5 livres and 10 sols. Their master makes it his daily business, to examine them what they have gained by doing any piece of business, or executing any commission. He gives them considerable posts, or sends them upon an embassy; and when it is presumed that they have amassed a certain fortune, they are accused of some misconduct, stripped of all their possessions, and left to finish their days in slavery. Their very children are not exempted from these acts of barbarity. The same Mouley Adaram, whom I have already mentioned, lives at this day wandering in the Desert, and among his banditti, in consequence of having fallen a victim to his father’s covetousness. I do not know if this young prince has ever shown any good qualities, but in the Desert he is only considered as a barbarous prince, who will prove a very cruel tyrant, if ever he mounts the throne. It is true, the throne appears at present to be destined for his brother Moulem36 Azy, who is as worthless as himself.

May I be permitted to observe, how extraordinary it is, that a prince so little to be dreaded as the Emperor of Morocco, should oblige the different powers of Europe to send ambassadors to him, and that he should even dictate laws to them. There is not a single sovereign who dares to send a representative to his court without making him at the same time considerable presents; and what envoy would present himself without having his hands full? When M. Chenier, envoy from the court of France, delivered his despatches to the emperor, some thing in them had given offence to him; he therefore wrapped them in a dirty handkerchief, and hung them about the consul’s neck, who was accordingly publickly exposed to the mockeries and insults of that cruel nation. How happens it that the consuls have not, by common consent, represented to their respective sovereigns, that the Emperor of Morocco becomes every day more and more powerful by the supplies which they themselves furnish him? Twenty years ago, this prince was absolutely destitute of resources. He had neither materials, nor any place for casting cannons; and he was equally in want of wood for building ships, of ropes, of nails, and even of workmen. It is France, and other European powers, that assist him, else the Emperor of Morocco would be of little consideration. His superb batteries of brass cannons, twenty-four, thirty-six, and forty-eight pounders, were furnished by Holland, Spain, England, and France. England has done more than other nations, by selling him those beautiful cannons which were taken on the floating batteries. Mogador, that part of it which is next to Morocco, is built in an advantageous situation. Its batteries are well disposed, and there are cannon at each embrasure; but they are there only in a manner for show, as they have no carriages, and are supported only by brick work. There are no workmen in the country capable of mounting them on carriages, nor is there wood proper for making them. Did a few vessels only wait for the sailing of those small frigates, which are almost all unfit for sea, except only two, nothing would be easier than to prevent them from returning, and to block up the ports of Mogador, Rabat, and Sallee. What would become of his commerce, and, above all, his marine, did the Christian princes cease to assist him, contrary to the interests of humanity! Would England and Spain unite only for a moment, Tangiers, his most beautiful port, would soon be so far ruined, that it could not afford shelter to his subjects, who, destitute of ships, would soon be obliged to give over their piracies.

If the consuls of different nations have never made these observations, and if they have never pointed out the means of curbing the insolence of the Emperor of Morocco, it is because they are at the head of the commerce which these different powers carry on in that part of the world. The Spanish consul bought up almost all the corn of the country, and ships were sent off with it, according to his consignments. The French consul is the only one who does not engage in commerce. I can positively assert, that these representatives, instead of furnishing their courts with the means of diminishing the power of the emperor, never cease to add to his strength, and to incite him to make new pretensions. How much we assist these pirates to hurt the advantageous trade which we might carry on! Their situation renders them very dangerous; but if we leave them only their situation, it would be impossible for them to profit much by it. Let impartial people pay a visit to that country—let them speak with the same sincerity as I do, and they will no doubt be convinced that the Emperor of Morocco, of all the princes in the world, would be the least able to do mischief, did the sovereigns of Europe cease to furnish him with succours.

At length, the hour came, when my chains were to be broken off. One day the prince, on coming out of the mosque, gave the consul to understand, that he wished him to attend with his slaves, in the court where he held his Mechoir (a kind of public audience). “Consul,” said he to M. Durocher, “I hope that you will not be like your predecessor, whose haughtiness displeased me exceedingly. Observe this young man (pointing to the vice-consul), he is pleasant and complaisant. He constantly endeavours to please me. I wish you to imitate him. I have desired it of you. You must write to your master, that I am satisfied with his presents. Adieu, retire a little with the slaves which I have given you.37 Choose any of my ports which may be most convenient for your embarkation. Adieu, I go to name the officers of my court, who will accompany you to the place of the consular residence.”

It was customary at these audiences, for the emperor to take cognizance of all the affairs of police. He appeared mounted upon a white horse, caparisoned with a scarlet and blue cloth; gold tassels hung round the crupper. A squire walked at the side of the sovereign, who held in his hand a long pole, at the end of which was an umbrella, to defend his majesty from the heat of the sun. The guard followed them on foot in great silence. Every thing announced fear. A look from the sovereign every where spread consternation. At his least word, he saw the head of one or more of his subjects fall without the least emotion. The culprit is lifeless, ere the last words of the sentence are out of his mouth. However, I never knew a rich man, who could buy his favour, suffer death, be his crime what it might.

What can be thought of a prince, who, upon an idea which had been suggested to him, that I was doubtless a Christian, more remarkable than the rest, because I was better drest, and the consul paid me more attention, forget every thing he had promised, and sent orders to Mogador, to arrest me, and send me back to Morocco? Happily the winds had wafted me to too great a distance, when the messenger came to signify to the governor his master’s pleasure.

I may therefore say that misfortune followed me to the last. I had certainly sunk under my misfortunes as well as my companions, had I not been supported by a steady firmness, and an unlimited confidence in Divine Providence. I must not forget to mention, that before my departure, Sidy Sellem went away abundantly satisfied with the generosity of the consul.

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I did not wish to interrupt my narrative, as I thought it would be more proper, that it should be followed with my various observations on the religion, manners, usages, &c. of a people, who are very little known, and who, for that reason, may become very interesting. Fatal experience has put it in my power to represent them. The reader may rest assured, that I will be no less guided by truth, in the description which I am now to lay before him, than I have been in the preceding recital of my particular adventures.

The Arabs of the Desert follow the religion of Mahomet; but they have entirely disfigured it by the grossest superstitions. They live constantly wandering in the midst of the dry sands of Africa. There are certain colonies of them who traverse continually the borders of the sea, without having any fixed dwelling. They are distributed into tribes, more or less considerable. Every tribe is divided into hordes, and every horde encamps in the districts which appear most likely to furnish pasturage for the support of their cattle, and that in such a manner, that one tribe is never wholly united. They are thus frequently intermixed with certain villages of the tribes of the Ouadelims, Labdesseba, La Loussye, Lathidium, Chelus, Tucanois, Ouadelis, &c. The two first are the most formidable—they carry their ravages to the very gates of Morocco. It is not therefore without reason that the Emperor fears them. They are in general tall, handsome, stout and vigorous men. They have commonly bristled hair, a long beard, a furious look, large hanging ears, and their nails as long as claws; they always use their nails in the wars wherein they are almost constantly engaged with their neighbours. The Ouadelims, in a particular manner, are fierce, arrogant, warlike, and given to plunder; they carry terror and dread with them wherever they go. However, like the other Arabs, their courage commonly fails them, when they have not a decided superiority.

All these colonies lodge by families, in tents, covered with a thick cloth made of camels hair. It is the women who spin their cloth, and weave it upon a loom, so small, that they work it sitting upon the ground. The furniture of their dwellings, consists of two large leather sacks, which answer the purpose of keeping all their old clothes, and any pieces of old iron; of three or four goat-skins (if they can procure as many), in which they keep their milk and water; of some wooden dishes, some pack-saddles for their camels, two large stones for grinding their barley, a smaller one to drive in the pikes of their tents, an osier matting which serves for a bed, a thick carpet for a covering, and a small kettle. These are the pieces of furniture which distinguish the rich from the poor. Their flocks, by which their riches are estimated, consist of two or three horses, several camels, some sheep and goats. The less fortunate have goats and sheep only.

The principal part of their devotions, and that which they observe with the greatest attention, is prayer. There are different kinds of it: the first commences always before sun-rising. The Talbe is distinguished by the length of his beard, a piece of woollen cloth, half white and half crimson, which he leaves loose and flowing about his body, and under which appears a figure, exhausted by fasting, (the consequence of excessive laziness), and a kind of chaplet of an enormous size. He raises a sad and lamentable voice, which one would be ready to suppose to be that of a pious and contrite man, but which is, in fact, that of a hypocrite. Girt with a poignard, he seeks the place where his perfidious arm can, with assurance, aim the blow with which he wishes to pierce the heart of his neighbour, his friend, and often his brother. By his uncouth sounds, he calls his people to come and range themselves under his banner, to hear the praises of the Prophet. They all run up to him with a holy respect; but before the priest begins his prayer, they throw off a little coat, which they wear fastened to their girdle, and in which they are wrapped, as it is the drapery of which their clothing consists. The Talbe afterwards bows himself towards the ground. He removes with his hands that upon which his feet were placed; then takes up a handful of the sand which has not been dirtied, and in place of water, rubs with it his face, hands and arms up to the elbows, in order to purify himself from all his uncleanness. The people follow his example.

When the prayer is ended, they stop for some time, sitting squat-down behind, and trace different figures upon the sand with their fingers, and turn them round their head, as if sprinkling themselves with a holy unction. The savages, while thus employed, show as much exterior piety and respect as we can do in our churches. I do not believe, however, that it is possible to make a greater jest of religion than they do, when their prayers are ended. The women, who only attend the morning matins, and those which they go about at ten o’clock at night, place themselves at the gate of their tents, and keep themselves with their faces towards the east.

When the first part of their religious exercise is performed, their next business is the milking of the flocks. They begin with the she-camels, giving them a great many blows with their feet, until they make them rise. As soon as they are on their legs, they take off from their udder a kind of covering made of ropes worked together, which is intended to prevent the young camel from sucking. The young one then runs up to its mother, and, by its caresses, prepares her to yield her milk in greater abundance. The master and the keeper of the flock watch the moment when the lips of the young camel are covered with a white foam: they then separate it from its mother; and each resting his head on different sides against the animal’s belly, they press the udder, from which they sometimes draw five pints of milk, when the rains have rendered the earth fruitful. The keeper of the flock, after taking a few draughts every time he milks, pours the rest into a vessel destined for that purpose, and placed close by the side of his mistress; for he is allowed no other nourishment than the milk which he draws from the last of the camels. When all the milk is thus collected, the mistress puts aside her part, which is never the least; then serves her husband and his children; and lays up the rest in a goat’s skin, which she leaves exposed to the sun before the milk be made into butter. Three or four hours after, the young girls bring from the fields the sheep and the goats. The mother, who is always present at the last milking, mixes the milk procured by it with that of the camels; and when the sun has sufficiently warmed it, they separate the cream from it, in order to make butter. What remains, serves as drink for the rest of the day. When the butter is made, they put it into small skins, where it acquires a strong smell, which, according to the taste of these barbarians, adds to its value. The women use it for greasing their hair: without this they would think something deficient in their dress. One cannot believe to what excess they carry their coquetry. They dress their hair with great art. They keep it flowing in tresses upon their breasts, and fasten to it any thing they can find. I have seen some of them ornament it with shell-work, keys of chests, and padlocks, rings of umbrellas, and buttons of trowsers, which they have taken from sailors.

When their head-dress is thus so far prepared, they cover it with a greasy cloth, which surrounds their head, covers the one half of their nose, and ties below their chin. To give a brilliancy to their eyes, they comb the eye-lashes with a great copper needle, which they have rubbed upon a blue stone. Next comes the adjustment of their drapery; and here all the art lies in plaiting it neatly, and so as to keep the folds, in doing which they employ neither pins, cords, nor sewing. But that the work of the toilette may be complete, they paint the nails of their feet and hands with a reddish colour. A Moorish woman, who wishes to be considered as a beauty, must have long teeth shooting out of her mouth; the flesh from the shoulder to the elbow loose and flabby; their limbs, thighs and body, prodigiously thick; their gait slow and cramped. They have bracelets like the collar of great Danish dogs upon their arms and legs. In a word, they labour from their infancy to efface any beauties for which they are indebted to nature, and to substitute in their room ridiculous and disagreeable whims. They have no other dress in all their wardrobe than what I have described. To add to the inconveniences to which these women are subjected, let us only reflect, that the same linen on which they are delivered of a child, they receive its nastiness and blow their noses in; it is impossible to form an idea sufficiently disgusting, of the nastiness and horrid smell of the Moorish women.

Could one suppose that these hideous women are addicted to jealousy and evil-speaking? It is, however, a truth. One of them has, perhaps, occasion to go and borrow something from her neighbour. If she meets the husband, she veils her face, and presently with a trembling air enters the tent. But if the woman is by herself, she begins to speak all the evil she can of any neighbour who is better drest. This conversation goes on, when perhaps a third enters, who does not fail to lay in her word, in such a manner, as that the one half of the day is spent in evil speaking; and she very frequently goes away, probably without recollecting to seek what she came to borrow. Laziness and gluttony are also their favourite sins. They will expose themselves to numberless affronts, in order to procure a little camel or goat’s flesh, when they know that it is dressing in any person’s house. Their favourite morsel is the liver.

The men are addicted to almost the same vices. They commonly pass the whole day stretched out upon a netting to sleep, to smoke, or to clean themselves from vermin which torment them. The women have generally committed to their care those employments which the men would otherwise find no hesitation in doing reciprocally. There can be no cause of surprise that the whole country is infected with vermin. They content themselves with throwing them down, without taking the trouble to destroy them. Notwithstanding all my precaution, my beard was always filled with them, and I may safely say it was none of the least of my sufferings during my captivity.

The men meet together sometimes in the day time, to entertain one another with their warlike exploits. Every one recites the number of enemies whom he has conquered. A ridiculously false story is almost constantly followed by a charge of lying; a quarrel is the consequence; and the conversation is generally terminated with some blows of the poignard. They can never agitate even the most indifferent question, without having their eyes inflamed with rage. Fury is depicted in every the least motion, and they cannot even converse upon domestic affairs, without roaring and yelling hideously.

Perfidy and treachery are two innate vices of the Arabs. It is for this reason they never stir from their tents unarmed. They never make any agreements in writing, well assured that he who receives an obligation would poignard him to whom he signed it, to cancel his debt; and therefore they always carry hung to their neck, a little leather purse, in which they carry about with them whatever they consider as precious. Although they keep nothing in their tents under lock and key, yet I have seen some of them having small chests; these coffers, which often do not contain the value of a small crown, are an object of desire to the whole colony—I must not even except the brother, father, nor son of the proprietor. My master’s brother was particularly envious on account of the small booty with which I had enriched his brother. He proposed to me one day, as a very simple matter, that I should kill him during the night. He offered me his poignard, and promised to conduct me to Morocco when I had committed the crime. However discontented I then was with my situation, this proposal shocked me—it struck me with horror. However, it was soon renewed to me, with entreaties, by one of Sidy Mahammet’s uncles, who, of all his relations, appeared to be most attached to him. I have frequently seen this man steal into my master’s tent during the night, in order to carry off some old iron, or leather thong. This same man was one of the most considerable in the village. He was consulted in their different disputes, and his judgment was always deemed weighty by the poor—the rich paid little attention to any man’s opinion.

Among the first lessons that they teach their young folks, are, to be expert in using the poignard, to tear the entrails of their enemy with their nails, and to give to a falsehood the semblance of truth. Those who to these talents add that of reading and writing, become very dangerous monsters, and thus acquire a very great ascendancy over their companions. It may be justly said, that they are from their infancy familiarized with vice, and equally happy in committing a bad or good action.

According to the custom of the country, every stranger Arab, to whatever district or tribe he belongs, known or unknown, is entitled to their hospitality. If there are many travellers, they all contribute towards the expense of their entertainment. All, without distinction, go out to meet a stranger, and welcome him upon his arrival, assist him in dismounting from his beast, and carry his baggage behind the bush, which is to defend him from the rigour of the night; for it is an established custom, that no stranger is admitted into their tent. This ceremony over, they sit down around the new comer; inquire of him the news of the country, whence he comes, and if the party have evacuated the places where they were encamped; if he fell in with any other person in districts more or less remote; and likewise if he found plenty of pasturage in the places through which he passed. When they have got an answer to these different questions, they then inquire to what tribe he belongs; but they never think of inquiring about his own health or welfare, till they are satisfied as to the other questions.

If no person is acquainted with the stranger in the horde which he visits, the richest among them entertain him. If there are many of them, the expense, as I have already said, becomes common. They serve to each a large bowl of milk, and of barley meal mixed with boiled milk, or water when it can be had. If the stranger can read, they give him the honour of saying prayers; in which case the Talbe of the village places himself by his side, as master of the ceremonies. This sums up all his entertainment, if he is a stranger little known among them; but if has any friends in the horde, or known to be rich, they quickly kill a good ram, or a fat sheep, to regale him. The women prepare the banquet; and while they are dressing the flesh, they serve up the fat first raw. So soon as the meat is ready, they begin by laying aside a portion for the husband; then that which they appoint for any of their neighbours, with whom they live on good terms. If this attention was neglected, it would be an irreparable fault. They then place, with care, the travellers mess upon a truss of straw. The Arab who is the entertainer, causes a Christian slave or negro, to follow him, carrying on his head the repast for the guest, which however is not set before him till ten o’clock at night, although perhaps he arrived early in the morning. Their practice is to give nothing to eat, till night, when they feast either by the light of a clear moon, or by a great fire, for they must have fire in almost every season of the year. The traveller never fails earnestly to entreat the person who brings him his mess, to do him the honour of eating with him, but he generally declines it as much as possible, and his refusal is founded on respect for his guest.

The next morning the travellers pursue their journey, without taking leave of any person whatever. This manner of entertaining one another would be surely very commendable, were it not for the many stratagems which they make use of to avoid it. When an unknown stranger appears, they sometimes place at a little distance from their tent a camel’s saddle, a mat, a gun and a little bundle, all seeming to intimate the baggage of some traveller who has alighted from his horse; but often these precautions do not hinder the stranger from settling beside the same baggage. The chief comes to declare that they belong to some Arab of a neighbouring village; but as this is a plan with which they are all equally acquainted, the visitor generally is not discouraged, he remains there; but in this case they revenge themselves on his importunity, by giving him a very slender portion of victuals. Then he keeps a sharp lookout, and if he sees any fire, he runs towards it in the hope of getting some flesh or broth. He takes great care to keep himself at first concealed behind the tent, in order to overhear what passes there, and to discover if they are at victuals; for they are at great pains, in order to prevent such visits, to take away very speedily the three stones which support the kettle; and in this case his plan succeeds, since they never see any person pass without inviting him to enter and partake of the feast. It often happens that, while the gormandizing goes on, they steal from behind the bush the effects which he secreted there; but this is only one trick for another, for he takes the first opportunity of paying them home in their own coin.

It is difficult to form a just idea of the pride and ignorance of these people. They not only imagine that they are the first people in the world, but they have the presumption to believe that the sun rises only for them. Several of them have repeatedly said to me, “Behold that luminary! which is unknown in thy country. During the night thou art not enlightened, as we are, by that heavenly body, which regulates our days and our fasts. His children38 point out to us the hours of prayer. You have neither trees nor camels, sheep, goats, nor dogs. Are your women made like ours?”—“How long didst thou remain in the womb of thy mother?” said another. “As long,” replied I, “as thou in that of thine.”—“Indeed!” replied a third, counting my fingers and toes, “he is made like us; he differs only in his colour and language, which astonishes me.”—“Do you sow barley in your houses?” meaning our ships. “No,” answered I; “we sow our fields almost in the same season as you.”—“How!” cried out several of them, “do you inhabit the earth? We believed that you were born and lived on the sea.” Such were the different questions I had to answer, when I had the honour of their conversation.

War among them is nothing else than robbery; therefore they never engage in it, but in the view of indulging their sloth, when they have pillaged the flocks, and ravaged the fields before they are reaped. One day that the fields were covered with the whole flocks of the village, one of the keepers ran up, quite out of breath, to inform us that some squadrons of the Ouadelims had appeared upon the top of the hills, with an apparent intention of carrying off the cattle. Immediately the drum39 beat, all ran to arms, and advanced towards the enemy. The riders on horseback are enveloped in a cloud of dust. The camel, who has a very long step, is almost as agile. Pushed on by the roaring cries of his rider, he darts into the crowd, and makes a more terrible carnage by his bites than all the musketry. They never make an attack drawn up in line of battle. Every warrior has his own particular combatant. He who throws his adversary on the ground, or who carries off his arms or his beast, retires precipitately with the fruit of his victory. Others, if they think they are the stronger party, lay hold on them, give them several blows with a poignard, or trail out their entrails with their horrid claws. The person who to-day is possessed of considerable riches in bestial, may find himself reduced to-morrow to extreme poverty, and stripped by him who, the preceding day, had no property at all. The weakest tribes, who are in consequence most exposed, are careful to live at a considerable distance, especially from the Ouadelims and Labdesseba. I have seen some of these two tribes, sometimes before leaving their country, begin their ravages in the neighbourhood of Arguin, which they call Agadir, and carry them even to the gates of Morocco.

In general, they cultivate no other grain but barley, and sometimes wheat, when there has been plenty of rain. But after three years of drought, their fields producing nothing, their method is to carry the horrors of war into more fortunate countries, and there seize from their brethren the fruits of their labour and industry. It thus happens that plentiful crops fall into the hands of ferocious men, who are more disposed to fight, than to labour for their subsistence.

When the battle is over, each party dig graves for the slain. The Talbes, being desired to repair to the place stained with the blood of their brethren, ran up to perform the duties of their function. These consist in pronouncing some plaintive sounds upon a few handfuls of sand gathered together in a shell, and sprinkling it upon the unhappy persons whom they prepare for death, by placing their thumb upon their forehead, as if they were applying some holy oil, and conclude with throwing upon their bodies a scarf and chaplet. When they expire, they stretch them in a grave, always carefully laying them on the left side, with their face towards the east, as if to contemplate the tomb of their prophet. They then enclose the tomb with great stones heaped upon one another, which serve as a monument to these pillaging soldiers. The ages of their warriors are distinguished by the space of ground which their coffin occupies. The women, bathed in tears, come to throw themselves around these mausoleums. Their gestures, wry faces, and harmonious sobs, form a very ridiculous spectacle. A traveller should never pass before these tombs, without depositing there his staff; and, after a short prayer, he raises around the tomb heaps of stones, which are evidences of the vows he has made for the repose of his soul.

After these funeral rites, cries of desolation resound through the village. Every person mingles tears with those of the afflicted relations. The tent of the deceased is conveyed to another place. All his effects are exposed to the open air; and one of the fattest rams is slain to comfort the relations and friends, who offer it to the deceased in sacrifice. The repast being ended, they bury all differences. The day after the battle, I have seen them pay visits to one another. He who has dangerously wounded his neighbour the day before, goes to see him, and converses with him on the dexterity with which he seized the favourable moment to strike the blow. But what I consider as most extraordinary is, that earth is their only cure for the deepest wounds. From whatever place they take the earth, the effect is the same. In order to heal their pains, they have recourse to another expedient, which however does not always prove equally efficacious; that is, to apply red hot iron to the part affected. Indeed, these Arabs are subject to few diseases. I have seen many old people, of both sexes, who were oppressed with no kind of infirmity. Sore eyes, and colics, are the most usual disorders among them. Children, above all, are exposed to these, though in other respects strong and robust. In the morning it is difficult for them to open their eyelids. With regard to the colic, I think it is occasioned by the verdigris which is mixed with every thing they eat or drink. The reason of its not occasioning more sudden disasters, is, perhaps, the large quantities of milk which they use. The kettles in which they cook their victuals are not tinned; they never wash them, on account of the scarcity of water; so that they remain covered with a crust of verdigris, which they do not scrape away even when they scour them with sand. During my stay among them, I was desirous of taking that charge, and of rubbing, until I should clear the verdigris entirely away. But they absolutely forbad me, telling me that I should wear their kettle. It is therefore impossible but that victuals kept in such vessels must prove prejudicial to their health.

It sometimes happens that the fields of these barbarians are covered with plentiful crops. But instead of waiting till the grain attains to maturity, they cut it down, and dry it over hot cinders; without reflecting that, by pursuing this method, they deprive themselves of that abundance which is necessary for the support of their families, and of straw to feed their cattle, which, for the most part, are reduced to the necessity of browzing on dry branches of trees; and that they themselves are often obliged to eat the saddles and girths from the backs of their camels. I could not see, without regret, the little care which these barbarians take in preparing the earth. They leave the seed between heaps of stones, and among bushes, the parched roots of which absorb all the moisture of the ground, on which the waters leave a kind of mud very proper for assisting early vegetation. The person who is employed to till the ground, repairs to those spots which the rain has principally moistened, and scatters the seed here and there indifferently; after which, he turns up the earth with a plough drawn by one camel, which consequently makes a furrow of very little depth. If the moisture of the clouds happens to second his labour, each retires with his portion to some rock or cavern. In passing through more fertile cantons, I have found under my feet sheaves of corn, the full ears of which invited the most opulent Arab to collect them. Others, heaped one upon another, remained exposed to the injuries of the weather, because the proprietor found himself provided with enough to last him until the season when the vapours attracted by the mountains should fall down in torrents, and overflow the valleys.

“Is it possible,” reasoned I with myself, “that any of mankind are in such a state of ignorance, as to make so little improvement of the blessings of Providence? How happy would I think myself with any kind of food suited to my taste!” I have at times taken a few handfuls of this barley, and, having cleaned the grain by rubbing it in my hands, I then eat it with inexpressible pleasure. On such occasions, I could have imagined that I was transported where the manna rained down from the sky for the support of the Israelites in the wilderness.

From any thing I could ever learn from the Arabs with whom I lived, they are wholly strangers to every kind of industrious labour, and equally unwilling to be instructed. They have only two artisans among them, and these they regard with a kind of veneration, and doubtless with astonishment, when they see them imitate in any manner the works of foreigners, for they themselves are incapable of doing any thing. A wheelwright and a blacksmith were in possession of the whole arts and sciences of the country. The knowledge of the first was exercised in making wooden dishes, mortars, and ploughs; but he has never yet been able to give to that instrument of agriculture that shape which is proper, and would make it easy for the hand of the labourer. The other labours with strength of arm upon iron, and is equally ignorant of its good and bad qualities. I have frequently seen him heat his iron many times in the fire till he had exhausted all its virtue, and then he was obliged to give it up, without making any thing of it; and if at other times he was more fortunate, he never produced more than a clumsy resemblance of the article which he wished to imitate. The same artisan wrought with equal confidence in precious metals. My master one day brought to him the chain of gold which I had given him, with orders to make rings of it for his daughter. The ignorant fellow, after having examined it, pretended that it was not gold. He compared it with a piece of a mixed metal, which he had procured from one of our wrecks, and which he insisted was pure gold. To support his assertion, he remarked that mine was of various colours, but his was real metal, and of a yellower hue. In short, after several remarks and dissertations equally ridiculous as ill founded, he came to the resolution of making a hole in a piece of charcoal, in which he enclosed it; and after having blown the fire well, he was lucky enough to melt it, and to form rings as large as the round of a snuff-box. His genius was generally admired, and he got a bowl of butter-milk for his reward.

What pains did I not take to teach them a method of grinding their barley with more ease, and of fanning it! How much have I laboured to instruct them how to load their camels, with more equal weight on both sides, in such a manner as not to hurt their sides, and to keep their instruments from being in continual danger of being broken, by falling to the ground! I wished to make them take more pains in labouring the earth, and gather in their harvest with more care; in short, I wished to polish them, but my attempts were vain; they are more conceited than their camels, (which is by no means saying little;—much have I suffered from these animals during the thirteen months I kept them!) What evidences do they give in every thing they undertake of their want of capacity! It is not possible to root out their prejudices, or correct their ill habits. I have seen in the hands of the smith the flourish of a gun-lock, with which he laboured fifteen whole days. When he had finished his work, I told him that it was so ill fitted to the case, that the person to whom it belonged could not make use of it without running great risks. All the by-standers wished me to make a trial of it, but I declined it. The workman, however, through the abundance of his self-conceit, would try it himself, and accordingly it carried off part of his jaw-bone and hand. I was convinced from what I had seen, that this gunsmith’s want of skill was the occasion of many wounds which they received in battle.

Often did they question us, if there was not a gunsmith among us. They seemed to think I was one from the observations which I had made. Their arms are in the worst condition imaginable. They are in general exported guns which the Arabs of the tribe of Trargea get in barter for camels. Some tribes have procured them from ships which have been wrecked on their coasts, and some bring them so far as from Morocco. These last are more substantial, but so difficult to manage, that they prefer those from Europe; and, above all, double-barrelled guns. There is not an Arab who would not cheerfully give a Christian slave for one of these guns. When they need repair, it is done with iron which they have abstracted from ships. I was at first astonished to see with what eagerness they staved barrels of spirits (aquavitæ) for the sake of their iron hoops. I could not have supposed they could have made use of such wretched iron for that purpose. If metal and guns are objects of such value in their eyes, one can readily conceive that stones, balls, lead and powder, are far from being of little consequence with them. They can very well distinguish good powder from bad. There is a powder manufactory in the little city of Guadnum; but it is so coarse and bad, as to have often very little effect, sometimes none at all. It clogs and dirties the gun; and for want of oil, they are often obliged to grease them with butter.

If we may except these crimes which they endeavour to commit under night, these people never make a mystery of their actions. If any of them are proposing to take a long journey, they inform the whole village, who meet together to give their best advice to the traveller. Every one puts in his word, even children of fourteen years, who speak with as much confidence as an old man could do in proposing an affair of importance. These conferences, which they hold together for the purposes of either condemning or approving of one another’s schemes, are sometimes prolonged for a whole month. In the same manner they consult about changing their encampment, or removing the camels to the sea-coast. This last matter is always very long of being decided upon, on account of the distance, and of what they must suffer in being deprived of milk till the return of these animals. It is true, that, in such cases, those who do not send away their camels supply those that are in want, but it is always in the view of being fully repaid, as they express it themselves. They never manifest such joy as on the return of the flocks. They come back with their interior well filled with water; and although it has contracted a taste and smell exceedingly disagreeable, it is however so scarce, that they drink it with much enjoyment.

Every person in Europe supposes that a dog would run mad if deprived of drink. In the deserts of Arabia, where the heat is excessive, they never drink any, and commonly live on excrement. The camels will subsist four months without tasting a drop of water. The goats and sheep drink still less. Indeed, if it were not for the horses, the Arabs would never go in search of water; they would wait on that which falls from the sky. The rains, which usually fall about the month of October, spread an universal joy. They keep all their holidays at this period. You can form no idea of this general happiness, having never experienced this want.

A husband cannot divorce his wife, without the previous permission of the old men of the village, who never refuse it. The women are on all occasions treated with the greatest contempt. They never assume the name of their husband, but retain that which was given them at their birth. The children are not even called by their father’s name. In almost all the colonies in which I have been conversant, there are only four or five different names in use among them. They are distinguished by that of their tribe, or some other surname. When an Arab sets out on a long journey, his spouse, after having received his adieu, follows him about twenty paces from his dwelling, and throws after him the stone, which is used for driving in the pikes of their tent, and, in the place where it lies, she buries it in the sand till his return. It is thus she expresses her good wishes for a successful journey to him.

Although the women behave very indecently, both in their words and actions, they are however faithful to their husbands. It is difficult to reconcile the tenderness which they show towards their children, and the barbarity with which they correct them, especially the daughters, who are much neglected both by the father and mother. However, it is in their appearance that they display their opulence. They ornament their ears, arms and legs, with rings of gold and silver. They put so much alloy in their silver, that it is little else than whitened copper. The poorer class make use of no other metal than this.

Nothing can exceed the joy of the parents upon the birth of a son. They think it is a very lucky circumstance when the mother is delivered without assistance from either male or female; thus it frequently happens that she is delivered alone. She is stretched out upon the sand, and when the child is born, takes a drop of milk to strengthen her, and remains lying on the ground, in a wretched tent, which scarcely defends her from the weather.

Every woman, on the birth of a son, as a demonstration of her joy, blackens her face for forty days. When a daughter is born, she only daubs the half of her face, and that for twenty days. If the poor infants could only see what a hideous appearance their mother makes, they would not come near her breast. I never in my life saw so shocking a sight.

I could never keep in temper to see the cruelty with which these women use their children, even while at the breast. They give them great blows with their fist upon the back, to make them sleep; and, to prevent their crying, pinch them unmercifully, and twist their skin with their fingers. I have seen these inhuman mothers set out with them the same day they were delivered, to go to an encampment fifteen or twenty leagues distant. They place them without care in a kind of cradle, which is set on the top of a camel’s load. As in this situation they are very conspicuous, they endeavour to make a show, and eclipse one another; for this purpose they decorate the bodies of their camels with stripes of scarlet-coloured cloth, and white rags. The four stoops which support the body of the cradle, are adorned with leaves of copper, gilt with gold or silver.

It is the women in general who lift the pikes of the tents, when their husbands are resolved to move their camp. They also have the charge of the camels under the inspection of their masters. When the husband mounts his horse, it is his wife who holds the stirrup to him, although she sometimes falls and hurts herself. This gives him little uneasiness, provided, at his arrival, she is sufficiently recovered to attend him with a bowl of butter-milk.

I have often been shocked to see one of these Arabs (who, not being rich enough to keep a horse, having been mounted above his packages), leave to the affrighted women the trouble of lifting up again the load which had been thrown over, while he went to lie at his ease behind a bush.

Nothing can be more haughty than an Arab’s behaviour to his wife, and nothing more humble than that of a wife in the presence of her husband. She is not allowed to eat with him, but, after having served him, she retires till her husband calls upon her, to give her what he leaves.

An Arab cannot, without incivility, enter into his neighbour’s tent on any account; he calls standing at the door, and the woman who hears him vails herself immediately, in the same manner which she does when she passes any person. A husband would be much to blame, if, on entering into his tent, he should lie down upon the mat which belongs to his wife; he cannot enjoy this favour but when she is in bed. They are indeed very attentive to their wives when with child. In every family there is at least five or six children; and a plurality of wives being permitted, one may easily conceive how soon these colonies become considerable. No jealousy subsists between these rival wives, although they all live under the same tent, and are witnesses of their husband’s embraces to each other.

The lodging which is appointed for a new married couple is adorned with a small white flag. The bridegroom wears around his brows a bandage of the same colour; whether it be his first or fifth marriage, he is always decorated with this mark of virginity, be his age what it may. The day of the marriage ceremony, he causes a camel to be slain for the entertainment of his guests. The women and children, without any distinction, assemble round the drummer; while he, set upon the ground, beats with his hand upon the instrument, and sounding through the other hand like a trumpet, he adds to this horrid noise the beating of his drum, and an iron chain which he moves with his arm. One person only dances to these instruments. Without moving from his place, his arms, his head and his eyes, follow the music. His body remains without any perceptible motion. His hands waving before his body, form different gestures, every one more indecent than another. All the spectators beat time with their hands. With the neck bent forward, and the jaw-bone turned sometimes to one side, and sometimes another, they make a thousand different wry faces, to which the dancing lady answers with an astonishing precision. She finishes with gently reclining towards the musician; the sounds of the instrument gradually become weaker; the eyes of the actress are half closed; she gently presses her bosom; every thing expresses violent passion. But it is not possible to give an idea of what now passes, nor the air of indifference with which the woman, who lately played a like part, joins her companions. The young people form themselves into a circle, in the midst of which only one remains standing on one leg, and with the other endeavours to defend himself from the blows which they wish to aim at him; and the first whom he strikes takes his place. This piece of dexterity is the only one with which they are acquainted.

The day following the marriage, they separate the new married bride from her husband, and the friends who are present take water and wash her from the middle to the feet. They then comb and dress her hair, paint her nails red, and dress her with new linen. If she is not rich enough to buy these things, they lend her what she needs till the end of the feast.

I have always considered as a fable, what I have been told of the breasts of a Moorish woman, but am now convinced of my error. I have seen (to cite no other examples), I have seen, I say, one of these women teazed by one of her children, throw them one of her breasts with such force, that it reached the ground.

Their male children can scarcely walk, when the mother treats them with the same respect as her husband, that is to say, prepares food for them, and will not eat herself till her son has been served. The Talbe who teaches them to read and write, gives them instructions with a loud voice; and as each of them is learning a different lesson, it occasions a horrid noise. The lessons they give them are written upon small boards of polished wood. One lesson learned, they efface it, and write another upon it; they make their pen of a small piece of wood. Their ciphers pretty much resemble ours.

After what I have related of these barbarians, was it possible that I should not be anxious to be again restored to my native country! We complain when we change our dwellings; weep, when we part with friends; are uneasy when we forget a handkerchief, or have a beard two days without being shaved; and I have been a slave, naked, bit with vermin, wounded in every part of my body, my bed among sand, either burning or moist, for fourteen months. O Divine Providence! It is by Thee I have been supported in what I have undergone, to Thee I have sacrificed my sufferings, and from Thee I expect my reward.

Notes

20 I was not at this time so well acquainted with Arabic as to understand this conversation, and several others which I will recite; but after I acquired some knowledge of the language, my master caused me repeat them to him.

21 The Talbes cord, on which are strung 115 small black beads. These they keep as the Catholics do their chapelets.

22 Several years since, some vessels were lost upon this coast, which were engaged in a treaty with the Negroes. The Arabs carried off the cargoes, so that we need not be surprised that they had guns of different kinds among them.

23 He believed that all the provisions which were in the King’s magazine belonged to me.

24 This odour was nothing more than lavender-water, with which my linen had been sprinkled.

25 The Jews born in the Desert live in much the same manner with the Arabs; but those who dwell in the towns are more rigid observers of the law of Moses.

26 When the French government, or any other, get information of any vessel being lost upon these coasts, they should direct their agent, either at Mogador or at Tangiers, to make application to a Jew named Aaron, who lives at Guadnum. He employs emissaries through all the different parts of Africa to buy up wrecks. This advice, dictated by humanity, is the best to be followed in such cases.

27 The Sieur Soret, one of my secretaries, Pinjon, surgeon of the ship, the two friends, Brissiere and John, seamen of the same ship, were made to suffer from this barbarous prince the most cruel treatment. Sometimes they were beaten with a baton or club, at other times their bodies were torn with the strokes of a poignard. Burning firebrands and red hot iron were sometimes employed in tormenting them. It is possible to bring the Sieur Soret from Nantz, the wounds of whose body will attest the truth of what I have advanced.

28 The Arabs who dwell along that coast live upon their fish. They are exceedingly poor, but of much milder manners than the inhabitants of the interior parts, by whom they are greatly despised.

29 The jewels which I had given Sidy Mahammet had made so much noise through all the country, that the travelling Arabs who passed through our districts asked frequently at my companions in misfortune, when they met me—Es Brisson?

30 The language which they speak in the Desert, differs from that spoken in the capital. Sidy Sellem, who was considered as a scholar among them, was obliged to repeat several times, before he could make himself understood by Effendy, who interrogated him in the presence of the Emperor.

31 It was at Guadnum that I first saw bread again. Whether brick or stones be scarce, or they have not learned the method of laying their ovens with these materials, I cannot say; but their custom is, to make little flint-stones, red hot, and on them bake their dough. The bread is pretty good. That which the emperor caused to be provided for the consul, appeared to be baked in a different manner, though I cannot say how. I found it more agreeable to the taste.

32 A thorn of a gum bush had run into my foot, which I could not get extracted, till it was entirely putrified.

33 A very mean sort of carriage, drawn by two horses, very often to be seen in the streets of Paris.

34 The inhabitants of the towns call those of the deserts mountaineers.

35 It is certain, that if Sidy Sellem had not wished to pay his homage to the emperor, (it was fifty years since he had been at Morocco), and had he not been called to the city by his own particular business, I would never have seen my native country; I was too far into the interior parts of the country ever to have escaped otherwise.

36 This was written before my return from Senegal. It may be noticed, that the son has since declared war against the father.

37 We were seven in number, viz. myself, the baker, and five others, belonging to the ship (Les Deux Amis) the Two Friends, which had been shipwrecked some time before us.

38 Thus they name the stars.

39 This great drum is committed to the charge of one of the most considerable inhabitants. It is used on different occasions; sometimes to call to arms, sometimes to inform that an Arab is bewildered in the Desert, and at other times that the camels are lost.