Chapter V Formation of Plantations
Laying out the Boundary.—Before commencing actual planting operations several preliminaries must be attended to. These will include (1) laying out the boundary, (2) clearing the ground of rough-growing vegetation, (3) drainage where necessary, (4) fencing, and (5) laying out such roads as may be necessary for the efficient working of the plantation. For the benefit of the trees, for shelter purposes, and for the general appearance of the landscape, it would be well were more attention paid to the laying out of the sites for new plantations. In many cases, however, there is no choice in the matter, the proprietor saying, Here is a field that is of no great value for agricultural purposes, plant it up. But in the case of hillside or moorland planting the matter is usually different, the choice of ground, size of plantation, and method of planting being left entirely in the hands of the forester. Many considerations will tend to determine the position of boundaries—bounds of property, proximity to roads, public paths, and the existence or future probabilities of modes of transit, all being more or less significant factors.
First, however, it is advisable to take into consideration when planting hillside or moorland, the shelter to be afforded to cultivated land in the neighbourhood, but a combination of this with the aforementioned considerations will be all-important.
The form of the outline must also be laid out with due regard to the prevailing wind, and should always present a convex side towards it, as it is obvious that on striking such a curve the force of the wind would be divided and expend itself in two opposite directions, thereby losing much of its destructive power. Blending one curve with another should be strictly observed, and continuous straight lines should be avoided, not only for appearance sake, but as it is well known that the most destructive force of the wind concentrates on such outlines.
Woodland Roads.—These are necessary for access to the wood when thinning, the removal of timber and firewood, and for sporting purposes. They should either be pegged out or formed before planting operations have been commenced, and need neither be of an elaborate character nor attended with great expense in construction. According to the area of the plantation, so should the roads be arranged, and a considerable saving is effected by laying out the roads and leaving them unplanted. Usually they are made 30 ft. wide, and only require to have the surface equalised and any stagnant moisture removed by drainage.
It is a good plan, so as at all times to keep the drives in a passable, dry condition, to cut a ditch along each side of the ride, parallel to it, and, say, 18 in. wide by 15 in. deep. The soil so removed will come in for filling up inequalities on the road surface. Steep roads should be avoided by following, in quickly sloping woodlands, the curve of the ground., For sowing down woodland drives, bridle-paths, etc., the following mixture of grass seeds is to be recommended:—
| lbs. | |
| Timothy grass, hard fescue, tall fescue, and | |
| meadow foxtail, 2 lbs. each | 8 |
| Smooth stalked meadow and rough cocksfoot, | |
| 4 lbs. each | 8 |
| Rough stalked meadow and sweet-scented vernal, | |
| 4 lbs. each | 8 |
| Wood meadow grass | 8 |
| Total | 32 |
In sowing down gravelly or sandy rides, I have found the Lyme or sand grass—Elymus arenarius—and the Sea Matweed—Psamma arenaria—to answer well, the seeds of each being sown in equal proportions.
Before sowing down woodland rides the soil should be well consolidated, and all surface inequalities levelled.
Fencing.—Local circumstances will often determine the mode of fencing new plantations. Where stones are abundant these may be utilized in the formation of walls, while in districts where slate abounds excellent fences of this kind may be erected at a cheap cost.
Turf walls and ditches are sometimes formed as plantation boundaries, but unless carefully looked after they are rarely very successful.
Stone and turf walls are now, however, almost entirely superseded by iron fencing, it being not only readily conveyed to any desired point, but quickly erected and moderately cheap.
To recommend any particular system of wire fencing would, for various reasons, be out of place, for amongst the numerous kinds now offered almost any desired pattern can be obtained.
In any case the fence need not exceed 3 ft. 6 in. in height, with seven-strand wires, two No. 6 and five No. 7; and, as this is placed in position at so much per mile by the makers, it is always well, so as to avoid bad erection and keep down expense, to have it so put up. Where an abundance of larch timber is growing on the estate, it would, perhaps, be unwise to employ iron, but in the majority of cases it will be found cheapest in the end to have the fences erected wholly of iron and wire.
The straining-posts should be of sound, well-seasoned larch or oak, and 7 ft. long by 6 in. square, or if round 7 in. in diameter.
The intermediate posts are usually of larch, 5½ ft. long by 3½ in., by 3 in., or if round, not less than 3½ in. diameter at small end.
The straining-posts are placed in the ground at 150 yards apart, with an additional strong post at every angle or curve that occurs in the line of fence. The intermediate posts are pointed and driven into the ground along the line of fence at 6 ft. apart.
In order to make a fence proof against the inroads of sheep and cattle not less than six wires should be erected, and galvanized strand wire is preferable. The total height of the fence need not exceed 3 ft. 6 in., and the top wires should be placed farther apart than those lower down.
In tightening the wires a straining machine is usually employed, but brackets for the same purpose are preferable, these being attached to the straining-posts.
They are of particular value, as the wire can be tightened or slackened at will.
The posts should be rounded on the top or sawn with a slant, so that the rain may run off.
Draining the Ground.—Efficient drainage must be considered as one of the most important operations in the formation of a plantation. Every portion of the ground may not, probably, require to be drained, but where it is at all surcharged with moisture the removal of such will be a step in the right direction if the future welfare of the trees is a point of first importance. In commencing draining the position of the main outlet must first be determined, and in doing so every fall of the ground should be taken advantage of. It is quite impossible to lay down rules as to the number, sizes, and distances apart of the various drains, these being points that can only be satisfactorily settled on the spot, and when the nature of the soil, lie of the ground, and amount of rainfall to be carried off are determined. In most cases, however, the main drains should be from 2 ft. 6 in. to fully 3 ft. wide at the top or surface, from 10 in. to 12 in. wide at the bottom, and about 3 ft. deep. The minor drains may be less in proportion to the mains, and are usually 2 ft. deep, 2½ ft. wide at top, and the width of the draining spade at bottom.
According to the nature of the ground so will the distances at which the drains should be cut vary, but in most cases from 15 ft. to 30 ft., sometimes even less, and sometimes considerably more. The minor drains should never run at right angles to the main, but at about 45°, which will prevent the mouths becoming choked up when there is a rush of water in the main. The soil removed from the drains should be evenly spread out over the ground-surface.