Dedication
TO THE MEMORIES OF
AND
PIONEERS IN THE WONDERLAND
OF THE
Preface
Twenty-five years ago, this date, a company of gentlemen were encamped at the Forks of the Madison River in what is now the Yellowstone National Park. They had just finished the first complete tour of exploration ever made of that region. Fully realizing the importance of all they had seen, they asked what ought to be done to preserve so unique an assemblage of wonders to the uses for which Nature had evidently designed them. It required no argument to show that government protection alone was equal to the task, and it was agreed that a movement to secure such protection should be inaugurated at once. So rapidly did events develop along the line of this idea, that within the next eighteen months the “Act of Dedication” had become a law, and the Yellowstone National Park took its place in our country’s history.
The wide-spread interest which the discovery of this region created among civilized peoples has in no degree diminished with the lapse of time. In this country particularly the Park to-day stands on a firmer basis than ever before. The events of the past two years, in matters of legislation and administration, have increased many fold the assurances of its continued preservation, and have shown that even the petty local hostility, which has now and then menaced its existence, is yielding to a wiser spirit of patriotism.
The time therefore seems opportune, in passing so important an epoch in the history of the Park, and while many of the actors in its earlier scenes are still among us, to collect the essential facts, historical and descriptive, relating to this region, and to place them in form for permanent preservation. The present literature of the Park, although broad in scope and exhaustive in detail, is unfortunately widely scattered, somewhat difficult of access, and in matters of early history, notably deficient. To supply a work which shall form a complete and connected treatment of the subject, is the purpose of the present volume.
It deals first and principally with the history of the Upper Yellowstone from the days of Lewis and Clark to the present time. The main text is supplemented by a considerable amount of appendical matter, the most important features of which are a complete list of the geographical names of the Park, with their origin and signification; a few biographical sketches of the early explorers; and a bibliography of the literature pertaining to this region.
The descriptive portion of the work contains a succinct, though comprehensive, treatment of the various scientific and popular features of the Park. While it is sufficient for all the requirements of ordinary information, it purposely refrains from a minute discussion of those details which have been, or are now being, exhaustively treated by the scientific departments of the government.
In describing a region whose fame rests upon its natural wonders, the assistance of the illustrative art has naturally been resorted to. The various accompanying maps have all been prepared especially for this work and are intended to set forth not only present geography but historical features as well. The folded map embodies every thing to date from the latest geographical surveys. It will bear careful study, and this has been greatly simplified by a system of marginal references to be used with the list of names in Appendix A.
The illustrations cover every variety of subject in the Park and represent the best results of photographic work in that region. They are mostly from the studio of Mr. F. J. Haynes, of St. Paul, the well-known Park photographer, who has done so much by his art to disseminate a knowledge of the wonders of the Yellowstone. A considerable number are from views taken during the Hayden surveys by Mr. William H. Jackson, now of Denver, Colorado. A few excellent subjects are from the amateur work of Captain C. M. Gandy, Assistant Surgeon, U. S. A., who was stationed for some years on duty in the Park. The portraits are restricted to the few early explorers who visited the Upper Yellowstone prior to the creation of the Park.
To any one who is familiar with the recent history of the Park, a work like the present would seem incomplete without some reference to those influences which endanger its future existence. A brief discussion of this subject is accordingly presented, which, without considering particular schemes, exposes the dangerous tendencies underlying them all.
In the course of a somewhat extended correspondence connected with the preparation of this work, the author has become indebted for much information that could not be found in the existing literature of the Park. He desires in this place to return his sincere acknowledgments to all who have assisted him, and to refer in a special manner.
To the Hon. N. P. Langford, of St. Paul, whose long acquaintance with the Upper Yellowstone country has made him an authority upon its history.
To Dr. Elliott Coues, of Washington, D. C., who has contributed, besides much general assistance, the essential facts relating to the name “Yellowstone.”
To Captain George S. Anderson, 6th U. S. Cavalry, Superintendent of the Park, for the use of his extensive collection of Park literature.
To Prof. Arnold Hague, and others, of the U. S. Geological Survey, for many important favors.
To Prof. J. D. Butler, of Madison, Wis., for biographical data relating to James Bridger.
To Dr. R. Ellsworth Call, of Cincinnati, Ohio, for valuable assistance pertaining to the entire work.
To the Hon. D. M. Browning, Commissioner of Indian Affairs, for important data relating to the Indian tribes in the vicinity of the Yellowstone Park.
To the officers of the War and Interior Departments, the U. S. Fish Commission, the U. S. Bureau of Ethnology, and of the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey, for public documents and other information of great value.
To R. T. Durrett, LL.D., of Louisville, Ky.; Mr. J. G. Morrison, of the Library of Congress, Washington, D. C.; Mr. J. D. Losecamp, of Billings, Mont.; Mr. George Bird Grinnell, of Forest and Stream, New York City; Major James F. Gregory, Corps of Engineers, U. S. A.; Lieutenant Wm. H. Bean, Second Cavalry, U. S. A.; Hon. David E. Folsom, White Sulphur Springs, Mont.; Washington Mathews, Major and Surgeon, U. S. A.; Dr. A. C. Peale, of Philadelphia, Pa.; William Hallett Phillips, of Washington, D. C.; Dr. Lyman B. Sperry, of Bellevue, O.; Mrs. Matilda Cope Stevenson, of Washington, D. C.; Mrs. Sirena J. Washburn, of Greencastle, Ind.; Miss Isabel Jelke, of Cincinnati, O.; Mr. O. B. Wheeler, of St. Louis, Mo.; Mr. O. D. Wheeler, of St. Paul, Minn.; Mr. J. H. Baronett, of Livingston, Mont.; Mr. W. T. Hamilton, of Columbus, Mont.; Mr. Richard Leigh, of Wilford, Idaho; Mr. Edwin L. Berthoud, of Golden, Colo.; and Miss Laura S. Brown, of Columbus, O. H. M. C.
Columbus, Ohio, September 19, 1895.
Part I — Historical
| Chapter I.—“Yellowstone” | 1 |
| Chapter II.—Indian Occupancy of the Upper Yellowstone | 8 |
| Chapter III.—John Colter | 20 |
| Chapter IV.—The Trader and Trapper | 32 |
| Chapter V.—Early knowledge of the Yellowstone | 40 |
| Chapter VI.—James Bridger | 51 |
| Chapter VII.—Raynolds Expedition | 58 |
| Chapter VIII.—Gold in Montana | 65 |
| Chapter IX.—Discovery | 72 |
| Chapter X.—The National Park Idea—Its Origin and Realization | 87 |
| Chapter XI.—Why So Long Unknown | 98 |
| Chapter XII.—Later Explorations | 103 |
| Chapter XIII.—An Indian Campaign through the National | 111 |
| Chapter XIV.—Administrative History of the Park | 127 |
| Chapter XV.—The National Park Protective Act | 142 |
Part II — Descriptive
| Chapter I.—Boundaries and Topography | 148 |
| Chapter II.—Geology of the Park | 156 |
| Chapter III.—Geysers | 162 |
| Chapter IV.—Hot Springs | 172 |
| Chapter V.—Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone | 175 |
| Chapter VI.—Fauna of the Yellowstone | 181 |
| Chapter VII.—Flora of the Yellowstone | 187 |
| Chapter VIII.—The Park as a Health Resort | 193 |
| Chapter IX.—The Park in Winter | 198 |
| Chapter X.—Roads, Hotels, and Transportation | 201 |
| Chapter XI.—Administration of the Park | 206 |
| Chapter XII.—A Tour of the Park—Preliminary | 209 |
| Chapter XIII.—A Tour of the Park—North Boundary to Mammoth Hot Springs | 211 |
| Chapter XIV.—A Tour of the Park—Mammoth Hot Springs to Norris Geyser Basin | 217 |
| Chapter XV.—A Tour of the Park—Norris Geyser Basin to Lower Geyser Basin | 221 |
| Chapter XVI.—A Tour of the Park—Lower Geyser Basin to Upper Geyser Basin | 228 |
| Chapter XVII.—A Tour of the Park—Upper Geyser Basin to Yellowstone Lake | 237 |
| Chapter XVIII.—A Tour of the Park—Yellowstone Lake to the Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone | 248 |
| Chapter XIX.—A Tour of the Park—Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone to Junction Valley | 260 |
Part III — The Future
| Chapter I.—Hostility to the Park | 267 |
| Chapter II.—Railroad Encroachment and Change of Boundary | 270 |
| Chapter III.—Conclusion | 281 |
APPENDIX A.
| Geographical Names in the Yellowstone National Park | 285 | |
| I. | —Introductory | 285 |
| II. | —Mountain Peaks | 289 |
| III. | —Streams | 313 |
| IV. | —Water-falls | 324 |
| V. | —Lakes | 327 |
| VI. | —Miscellaneous Features | 338 |
| VII. | —Geysers | 342 |
APPENDIX B.
Legislation and Regulations now in Force affecting the Yellowstone National Park 345
APPENDIX C.
Appropriations on Account of the Yellowstone National Park 357
APPENDIX D.
List of Superintendents of the Yellowstone National Park 359
APPENDIX E.
Bibliography of the Yellowstone National Park 361
The Yellowstone National Park.