Chap. III Of the Situation and Nature of the Country of Virginia, and Its Coasts, &c.
Under the Meridian is extended the Expanse Bay of Chesapeak, esteemed one of the noblest and safest Bays in the World.
The Land on the East Side of it is called the Eastern Shore, the Northern Part of it belonging to Maryland, and the Southern containing Accomack and Northampton Counties belonging to Virginia; at the extreme Point of which lies one of the Capes of Virginia, the other being opposite to it, one called Cape Henry, and the other Cape Charles; without these runs a bold Shore Southward, being the Coast of North Carolina.
After Ships are clear of England, they need go near neither Land, Rocks, nor Shoals, but in a direct Course might cross the vast Atlantick Ocean about a thousand Leagues nearly W. S. W. till they make Land somewhat to the Southward of the Capes; then knowing (by their Latitude, or Landmarks, or by certain Trees) what Land they are near, they may easily get within the Capes, unless they happen to be kept off to Sea for some Time by blustering Northwesters; or unless they carelessly fall upon Cape Hatteras, or other Shoals on that Coast, in known Latitudes; so that this may be esteemed as easy a Voyage as any.
There are belonging to Virginia four principal Rivers (neither of them inferior upon many Accounts to the Thames or Severn) that empty themselves into the Bay after they have glided some Hundreds of Miles fromwards the Mountains, the Western Bounds of Virginia.
The most Southerly of these Rivers is called James River, and the next York River, the Land in the Latitude between these Rivers seeming most nicely adapted for sweet scented, or the finest Tobacco; for ’tis observed that the goodness decreaseth the farther you go to the Northward of the one, and the Southward of the other; but this may be (I believe) attributed in some Measure to the Seed and Management, as well as to the Land and Latitude: For on York River in a small Tract of Land called Digges’s Neck, which is poorer than a great deal of other Land in the same Latitude, by a particular Seed and Management, is made the famous Crop known by the Name of the E Dees, remarkable for its mild taste and fine Smell.
The next great River is Rappahannock, and the fourth is Potowmack, which divides Virginia from the Province of Maryland.
These are supplied by several lesser Rivers, such as Chickahommony and others, navigable for Vessels of great Burthen.
Into these Rivers run abundance of great Creeks or short Rivers, navigable for Sloops, Shallops, Long-Boats, Flats, Canoes and Periaguas.
These Creeks are supplied with the Tide, (which indeed does not rise so high as in Europe, so prevents their making good Docks) and also with fresh-Water-runs, replenished with Branches issuing from the Springs, and soaking through the Swamps; so that no Country is better watered, for the Conveniency of which most Houses are built near some Landing-Place; so that any Thing may be delivered to a Gentleman there from London, Bristol, &c. with less Trouble and Cost, than to one living five Miles in the Country in England; for you pay no Freight for Goods from London, and but little from Bristol; only the Party to whom the Goods belong, is in Gratitude engaged to freight Tobacco upon the Ship consigned to her Owners in England.
Because of this Convenience, and for the Goodness of the Land, and for the sake of Fish, Fowl, &c. Gentlemen and Planters love to build near the Water; though it be not altogether so healthy as the Uplands and Barrens, which serve for Ranges for Stock.
In the Uplands near the Ridge generally run the main Roads, in a pleasant, dry, sandy Soil, free from Stones and Dirt, and shaded and sheltered chiefly by Trees; in some Places being not unlike the Walks in Greenwich Park.
Thus neither the Interest nor Inclinations of the Virginians induce them to cohabit in Towns; so that they are not forward in contributing their Assistance towards the making of particular Places, every Plantation affording the Owner the Provision of a little Market; wherefore they most commonly build upon some convenient Spot or Neck of Land in their own Plantation, though Towns are laid out and establish’d in each County; the best of which (next Williamsburgh) are York, Glocester, Hampton, Elizabeth Town, and Urbanna.
The Colony now is encreased to twenty nine Counties, naturally bounded (near as much as may be) one with another about as big as Kent; but the frontier Counties are of vast Extent, though not thick seated as yet.
The whole Country is a perfect Forest, except where the Woods are cleared for Plantations, and old Fields, and where have been formerly Indian Towns, and poisoned Fields and Meadows, where the Timber has been burnt down in Fire-Hunting or otherwise; and about the Creeks and Rivers are large rank Morasses or Marshes, and up the Country are poor Savannahs.
The Gentlemen’s Seats are of late built for the most Part of good Brick, and many of Timber very handsom, commodious, and capacious; and likewise the common Planters live in pretty Timber Houses, neater than the Farm Houses are generally in England: With Timber also are built Houses for the Overseers and Out-Houses; among which is the Kitchen apart from the Dwelling House, because of the Smell of hot Victuals, offensive in hot Weather.