Chap. II Of the Metropolis Williamsburgh, and the College, Capitol, and Governor’s House, and the Church, &c.
The first Metropolis, James Town, was built in the most convenient Place for Trade and Security against the Indians, but often received much Damage, being twice burnt down; after which it never recovered its Perfection, consisting at present of nothing but Abundance of Brick Rubbish, and three or four good inhabited Houses, tho’ the Parish is of pretty large Extent, but less than others. When the State House and Prison were burnt down, Governor Nicholson removed the Residence of the Governor, with the Meeting of General Courts and General Assemblies to Middle Plantation, seven Miles from James Town, in a healthier and more convenient Place, and freer from the Annoyance of Muskettoes.
Here he laid out the City of Williamsburgh (in the Form of a Cypher, made of W. and M.) on a Ridge at the Head Springs of two great Creeks, one running into James, and the other into York River, which are each navigable for Sloops, within a Mile of the Town; at the Head of which Creeks are good Landings, and Lots laid out, and Dwelling Houses and Ware Houses built; so that this Town is most conveniently situated, in the Middle of the lower Part of Virginia, commanding two noble Rivers, not above four Miles from either, and is much more commodious and healthful, than if built upon a River.
Publick Buildings here of Note, are the College, the Capitol, the Governor’s House, and the Church. The Latitude of the College at Williamsburgh, to the best of my Observation, is 37°. 21´. North.
The Front which looks due East is double, and is 136 Foot long. It is a lofty Pile of Brick Building adorn’d with a Cupola. At the North End runs back a large Wing, which is a handsome Hall, answerable to which the Chapel is to be built; and there is a spacious Piazza on the West Side, from one Wing to the other. It is approached by a good Walk, and a grand Entrance by Steps, with good Courts and Gardens about it, with a good House and Apartments for the Indian Master and his Scholars, and Out-Houses; and a large Pasture enclosed like a Park with about 150 Acres of Land adjoining, for occasional Uses.
The Building is beautiful and commodious, being first modelled by Sir Christopher Wren, adapted to the Nature of the Country by the Gentlemen there; and since it was burnt down, it has been rebuilt, and nicely contrived, altered and adorned by the ingenious Direction of Governor Spotswood; and is not altogether unlike Chelsea Hospital.
This Royal Foundation was granted and establish’d by Charter, by King William and Queen Mary, and endowed by them, with some thousand Acres of Land, with Duties upon Furs and Skins, and a Penny a Pound for all Tobacco transported from Virginia and Maryland, to the other Plantations; to which have been made several additional Benefactions, as that handsom Establishment of Mr. Boyle, for the Education of Indians, with the many Contributions of the Country, especially a late one of 1000 l. to buy Negroes for the College Use and Service.
The Society is a Corporation establish’d for a President, six Masters or Professors, with a hundred Scholars, more or less.
For some Causes that I can’t account for, the Revenue is not improved as much as might be wished; neither is the College brought to that Method of Education and Advantage, as it might be; tho’ ’tis hoped, that in a few Years it will, like the Palm Tree, grow to the greater Perfection, under the weighty Obstacles that load it.
The Salary of the President Mr. James Blair, has been lately ordered to be reduced from 150 to 100 l. per Ann.
The Salary of the Fellows (one of which I have been several Years) is 80 l. per Ann. each, with 20 s. Entrance, and 20 s. a Year for Pupilage for each Scholar: The Payments are sometimes made in Current Spanish Money, and sometimes in Sterling Bills.
The Nature of the Country scarce yet admits of a Possibility of reducing the Collegians to the nice Methods of Life and Study observed in Oxford and Cambridge; tho’ by Degrees they may copy from thence many useful Customs and Constitutions.
When the College shall be compleatly finished, and Scholarships founded, then is the Trust to be transferred from the Trustees to the President and Masters; but at present it is managed by a certain Number of Governors or Visitors, (one of which is chosen yearly Rector) appointed first by the Trustees, elected out of the principal and worthiest Inhabitants.
These appoint a Person, to whom they grant several Privileges and Allowances to board and lodge the Masters and Scholars at an extraordinary cheap Rate.
This Office is at present performed in the neatest and most regular and plentiful Manner, by Mrs. Mary Stith, a Gentlewoman of great Worth and Discretion, in good Favour with the Gentry, and great Esteem and Respect with the common People.
Great Pity it is, but the noble Design of this College met with more Friends to encourage, and Benefactors to advance, its flourishing State.
One Happiness is, that it has always a Chancellor in England, chosen by the Governors or Feoffees; to whose Patronage and Direction it may have Recourse upon emergent Occasions.
The last Chancellor was the late Bishop of London; and the present is his Grace the Archbishop of Canterbury.
The Chancellor continues in that Office but seven Years; so that it may happen as soon as he has obtained a perfect Knowledge and Acquaintance with the Persons and Affairs belonging to the College, his Term is expired: Besides their Business in other momentous Affairs at Home may divert them, and the Distance of the Country may prevent them from obtaining true Notions, and exact Accounts of the Nature of the Colony and the College; so that for these Reasons, they can’t do for it the Good, which they otherwise might: For their better Information, and for Direction of all, in promoting Religion and Learning in this Plantation, I have made Publick this Account of it, and its Inhabitants.
Fronting the College at near its whole Breadth, is extended a noble Street mathematically streight (for the first Design of the Town’s Form is changed to a much better) just three Quarters of a Mile in Length: At the other End of which stands the Capitol, a noble, beautiful, and commodious Pile as any of its Kind, built at the Cost of the late Queen, and by the Direction of the Governor.
In this is the Secretary’s Office with all the Courts of Justice and Law, held in the same Form, and near the same Manner, as in England; except the Ecclesiastical Courts.
Here the Governor and twelve Counsellors sit as Judges, at the General Courts in April and October, whither Trials and Causes are removed from Courts, held at the Court-Houses Monthly in every County by a Bench of Justices and a County Clerk.
Here are also held the Oyer and Terminer Courts, one in Summer, and the other in Winter, added by the Charity of the late Queen, for the Prevention of Prisoners lying in Gaol above a Quarter of a Year before their Trial.
Here are also held Courts Martial, by Judges appointed on Purpose, for the Trial of Pyrates; likewise Courts of Admiralty, for the Trial of Ships for illegal Trade.
The Building is in the Form of an H nearly; the Secretary’s Office, and the General Court taking up one Side below Stairs; the Middle being an handsom Portico leading to the Clerk of the Assembly’s Office, and the House of Burgesses on the other Side; which last is not unlike the House of Commons.
In each Wing is a good Stair Case, one leading to the Council Chamber, where the Governor and Council sit in very great State, in Imitation of the King and Council, or the Lord Chancellor and House of Lords.
Over the Portico is a large Room where Conferences are held, and Prayers are read by the Chaplain to the General Assembly; which Office I have had the Honour for some Years to perform. At one End of this is a Lobby, and near it is the Clerk of the Council’s Office; and at the other End are several Chambers for the Committees of Claims, Privileges, and Elections; and over all these are several good Offices for the Receiver General, for the Auditor, Treasurer, &c. and upon the Middle is raised a lofty Cupola with a large Clock.
The whole is surrounded with a neat Area, encompassed with a good Wall, and near it is a strong sweet Prison for Criminals; and on the other Side of an open Court another for Debtors, when any are removed thither from other Prisons in each County; but such Prisoners are very rare, the Creditors being there generally very merciful, and the Laws so favourable for Debtors, that some esteem them too indulgent.
The Cause of my being so particular in describing the Capitol is, because it is the best and most commodious Pile of its Kind that I have seen or heard of.
Because the State House, James Town, and the College have been burnt down, therefore is prohibited in the Capitol the Use of Fire, Candles, and Tobacco.
Parallel to the main Street mentioned is a Street on each Side of it, but neither quite so long nor broad; and at proper Distances are small cross Streets, for the Convenience of Communication.
Near the Middle stands the Church, which is a large strong Piece of Brickwork in the Form of a Cross, nicely regular and convenient, and adorned as the best Churches in London. This from the Parish is called Bruton Church, where I had the Favour of being Lecturer.
Near this is a large Octogon Tower, which is the Magazine or Repository of Arms and Ammunition, landing far from any House except James Town Court-House; for the Town is half in James Town County, and half in York County.
Not far from hence is a large Area for a Market Place; near which is a Play House and good Bowling Green.
From the Church runs a Street Northward called Palace Street; at the other End of which stands the Palace or Governor’s House, a magnificent Structure, built at the publick Expence, finished and beautified with Gates, fine Gardens, Offices, Walks, a fine Canal, Orchards, &c. with a great Number of the best Arms nicely posited, by the ingenious Contrivance of the most accomplished Colonel Spotswood.
This likewise has the ornamental Addition of a good Cupola or Lanthorn, illuminated with most of the Town, upon Birth-Nights, and other Nights of occasional Rejoicings.
At the Capitol, at publick Times, may be seen a great Number of handsom, well-dress’d, compleat Gentlemen. And at the Governor’s House upon Birth-Nights, and at Balls and Assemblies, I have seen as fine an Appearance, as good Diversion, and as splendid Entertainments in Governor Spotswood’s Time, as I have seen any where else.
These Buildings here described are justly reputed the best in all the English America, and are exceeded by few of their Kind in England.
In every Part of this Town are excellent Springs of good Water, or else may be made good Wells; and the Ground falling on both Sides, conveys the Water and Rain by small Channels into the Creeks; but to make the main Street exactly level, the Assembly lately gave a considerable Sum, which was expended in removing Earth in some Places, and building a Bridge over a low Channel; so that it is now a pleasant, long dry Walk, broad, and almost level from the College to the Capitol.
Williamsburgh is now incorporated and made a Market Town, and governed by a Mayor and Aldermen; and is well stock’d with rich Stores, of all Sorts of Goods, and well furnished with the best Provisions and Liquors.
Here dwell several very good Families, and more reside here in their own Houses at publick Times.
They live in the same neat Manner, dress after the same Modes, and behave themselves exactly as the Gentry in London; most Families of any Note having a Coach, Chariot, Berlin, or Chaise.
The Number of Artificers is here daily augmented; as are the convenient Ordinaries or Inns for Accommodation of Strangers.
The Servants here, as in other Parts of the Country, are English, Scotch, Irish, or Negroes.
The Town is laid out regularly in Lots or square Portions, sufficient each for a House and Garden; so that they don’t build contiguous, whereby may be prevented the spreading Danger of Fire; and this also affords a free Passage for the Air, which is very grateful in violent hot Weather.
Here, as in other Parts, they build with Brick, but most commonly with Timber lined with Cieling, and cased with feather-edged Plank, painted with white Lead and Oil, covered with Shingles of Cedar, &c. tarr’d over at first; with a Passage generally through the Middle of the House for an Air-Draught in Summer.
Thus their Houses are lasting, dry, and warm in Winter, and cool in Summer; especially if there be Windows enough to draw the Air.
Thus they dwell comfortably, genteely, pleasantly, and plentifully in this delightful, healthful, and (I hope) thriving City of Williamsburgh.