The St. Leu Quarter
Return by the same way to the bridge, then turn to the right and follow the Port d’Amont as far as the first bridge (Pont du Cange). This bridge dates from the fifteenth century, and is the oldest of the many bridges which cross the canals.
Cross the bridge, then turn to the left into the Rue Belu, which runs along the river-side. From here there is a pretty view of the Cathedral and the old town (photo below). At the end of the Rue Belu, cross the Pont de la Dodane. To the left is the Place Parmentier, where the “Floating Market” is held (p. 51). In front are the first houses of the curious Rue du Don, seen in the centre of the photo below, and on the right of the photo on p. 53.
Take a few steps to get a good view of this street (photo above), re-cross the Pont de la Dodane, then take on the left the Rue d’ Engoulvent, which runs by the side of an arm of the Somme (photo p. 53), as far as the church of St. Leu. The tourist may either go round the apsis of the church, taking on the left the small Rue St. Leu which crosses the arm of the river, or continue straight ahead as far as the Rue St. Leu, via the Rue Graineville, which is the continuation of the Rue d’Engoulvent.
St. Leu Church (hist. mon.) has undergone important alterations at various times. One of its façades is 15th century, and a steeple was rebuilt in the 16th century, in the Gothic style. A shell splinter broke the mullions and stained glass of one of the windows of the apse (north side). This Church is in the centre of the old quarter or lower part of the city. It is there that the commerce and industry of the town have been centralised since the Middle Ages.
A maze of narrow, winding streets crossed by innumerable canals or arms of the Somme river, connected by bridges, forms this part of the town. Numerous small water-falls supply motive power to the local factories and works. Formerly, the workshops of the fullers and dyers, which crowded the banks of the canals, and where the cloth-fulling and woad-grinding were done, were driven by water-wheels (see p. 2).
The houses have kept their ancient aspect, and are curious for their wooden walls, sharply pointed gables, steep roofs with tiny dormer-windows, and daring corbellings overhanging the narrow streets and canals. The only means of access to the outside which some of them possess is a foot-bridge passing over the canal.
Turn to the right into the Rue St. Leu, passing in front of the Hôtel Dieu. Rebuilt in the 17th and 18th centuries, except the St. John ward, which was built at the beginning of the 16th century in the Gothic-Flamboyant style, it is a spacious hall with two large roofs, the gables of which face the street. The vaulting is of wood, the ends of the beams being carved. The whole is in very bad condition.
After crossing six successive lines of canals offering picturesque perspectives (especially the Rue de Ville and Rue des Coches), the tourist arrives at the Citadelle.
The Citadelle, built in the 16th century, has since been dismantled and now serves as a barracks. The Porte Monte-Ecu (historical monument), built in 1531 under François I., is within its walls. It was through this Gate that the Spaniards entered Amiens in 1597. To get a view of it, turn to the right after the Pont de la Citadelle and take the first street on the left (see detailed plan).
Return by the same way to the Rue St. Leu. A little beyond the Church of St. Leu, take the Rue Fernel on the right, in which several 15th century wooden houses are still to be seen. No. 33, known as the “Ramoneurs,” is especially worthy of note, though greatly deteriorated.
Follow the Rue Fernel to the Place Samarobrive, to the left of which take the Rue des Bouchers (photo below—picturesque old houses, especially No. 33).
At the end of this street, turn to the right into the Rue Haute-des-Tanneurs, which is continued on the other side of the Place Fauvel by the Rue Basse-des-Tanneurs.
At the end of the Rue Basse-des-Tanneurs, see the ancient dilapidated façade (1493) of the Hotel Morgan de Belloy (B on detailed plan), and the Château d’Eau (A on detailed plan), dating from the 18th century.
A natural history museum has been installed on the first floor.
From the Hôtel Morgan there is a fine view of the Cathedral and the lower town (photo page 55).
If the tourist has time he should cross the Somme by the Pont St. Michel, then follow the Boulevard du Jardin des Plantes to visit the Jardin des Plantes, which is on the right of the Boulevard.
Retracing his steps he should turn to the right after the Pont St. Michel, and follow the Port d’Aral, then turn to the left and take the Boulevard du Port.
On arriving at the Place du Marché aux Chevaux, turn to the right into the Rue du Faubourg-de-la-Hotoie as far as the Promenade de la Hotoie (see coloured plan), a magnificent park of about 50 acres, continued on the north by the Jardin Anglais of the “Petite Hotoie,” ten acres in extent.
The Promenade de la Hotoie was used by the military authorities as an automobile park during the War and is now in a deplorable state.
Return via the Faubourg de la Hotoie, then take the Rue de la Hotoie which continues it beyond the Place du Marché aux Chevaux.
At the end of this street in the Place St. Firmin, take the Rue St. Jacques on the right, then immediately afterwards the Rue Gresset on the left (No. 11 was formerly the Hôtel des Monnaies—18th century).
Only the entrance door remains, the pediment of which is decorated with two fine figures of women.
Continue along the Rue Delambre, cross the Place Gambetta, and follow the Rue des Trois Cailloux.
After the Theatre, turn to the left into the Rue Robert de Luzarches which leads to the Cathedral.