Chapter XVIII
The coffin—A pasha’s death—Horse-dealing—The postman—Brigands—An hotel bill—Down the Bojana—Dulcigno—Pirates—Farewell.
We spent these last three days in purchasing arms and other curiosities. Between us we collected a very arsenal of strange weapons of every kind. A carpenter at the bazaar constructed a box for us in which to pack them. This box was about six feet in length, and somewhat more than two feet in breadth. It looked uncommonly like a coffin. The ever-ingenious Robinson, when it arrived at Toshli’s spent a whole evening in painting a ghastly-looking mummy on the cover, and other horrible ornaments on its sides. As may be imagined, it created some interest on our journey.
The day after our return to Scutari the pasha very suddenly died, whereupon the whole city rejoiced much and openly, and indulged in more raki than was good for it.
The doctors attributed his decease to apoplexy. It seems he had drunk a cup of coffee, when suddenly he complained of intense pain, and vomited. In ten minutes he was no more. Turkish pashas are strangely subject to this curious and fatal illness, which, in nearly all cases, follows the drinking of a cup of coffee or sherbet.
Perhaps it is in consequence of the well-known antipathy between these beverages and the pashaic stomach that so many of these distinguished men have taken to Veuve Cliquot, notwithstanding the Koran’s strict ordinance. No one in Scutari for a moment doubted that poison was the true cause of the mysterious complaint. Of course there was no post-mortem. The Mussulman has a superstitious objection to any mutilation of the human body, in life or death.
Our faithful companions, Rosso and Effendi, had next to be sold. We marched them up and down the bazaar day after day, Marco loudly dilating on their many virtues. No one seemed very anxious to purchase at our price. The dealer who had sold us Rosso offered us one-fifth of the sum we had paid for him originally. Yet we had decidedly improved the animal’s condition.
At last we managed to sell Effendi to the Austrian consul. But Rosso hung on our hands to the very morning of our departure. No one would have him at any price, even his original owner retracted his offer. Should we be obliged to leave the poor animal a homeless vagabond, to wander about the streets of Scutari in search of a master, begging for crusts to keep life within those pathetic ribs? It seemed like it.
Brown, in despair, wandered through the alleys of the bazaar, eagerly informing the merchants that he had a red horse for sale.
“Rosso Vendetta,” as he expressed it, which, if it means anything, means a sanguinary blood-feud. The quiet Christian merchants must have imagined that the Englishman was running amuck, and was about to slaughter them all.
At the last moment the khanji of the khan where Rosso was lodged and fed came to us, and offered us 200 piastres—about 30s.—for our noble steed. We had to accept it, for the animal was hardly worth taking to England with us.
It was a bright sunny morning when we bid a final adieu to our numerous friends at Scutari, and started for the coast. We had sent the coffin and our other baggage on in advance, on the backs of the mules of the British consulate postman. There is no post-office or postal service of any kind in North Albania, so letters are sent to the coast in this way, to be taken up by the passing steamers.
The office of letter-carrier is of some importance in this country, for it is in the gift of the government, the carriers having the monopoly of the transport of all goods from town to town. As there are no roads, and hence no carts in North Albania, everything has to be carried on the backs of horses or mules; this of course accounts for the very high prices of all imported goods.
Each carrier owns some twenty horses, and his calling would be an exceedingly lucrative one were it not for the heavy black-mail levied on him by the brigands.
The carrier to Dulcigno to whom we had entrusted our baggage, had, we were told, been stopped on his road three times within the last few months.
The whole business is managed very quietly. On some lonely portion of the way, a picturesque gentleman, armed to the teeth, suddenly appears, and in few words persuades the drivers to deliver up their charge. These in a philosophically resigned manner accept their ill-luck; discussion they know would be useless, as the muzzles of several long Albanian guns peep ominously from the rocks above.
We paid Toshli’s bill, which was quite a curiosity in its way.
Our landlord had been to some conventual school in his youth, and had acquired the rudiments of the classic tongues. He now utilized his knowledge, by setting down the many items of his account in what he imagined was Latin.
Occasionally, where his memory of that language failed him, he would put down the name of some comestible in Greek.
He must have taken great trouble in the composition of this document; he came up with it smiling, evidently very proud of it, and remarked that as we did not understand Albanian, he had done his best to make it intelligible for us.
The total looked enormous, calculated as it was in piastres, more like a national debt than an hotel bill. We shuddered as we contemplated the four figures of the total. However, a little calculation showed us that we were not about to be burdened with an impossible debt, which might keep us here in pawn for the rest of our days.
The port of Dulcigno is situated half a day’s march north of the mouth of the Bojana, the river that takes off the waters of the Lake of Scutari to the sea.
The pleasantest way of making the journey, we were told, was to descend the river by boat to a certain bend near the sea, and thence go on on foot.
We accordingly hired a londra which lay alongside the quay by the bazaar.
Our landlords, the Boulem-Bashi of Klementi, and some of our other friends, came to see us off. After a good deal of hand shaking the four Englishmen, Marco, Dick Deadeye, and two Albanian boatmen, embarked, and we were soon descending the river on the top of a strong current.
It would be a very good speculation to run a small steamer to Scutari.
The navigation of the Bojana is easy, and the imports into Scutari from abroad are considerable. But I suppose this would be an infringement of the monopoly granted to the carriers; and it will be long ere the authorities perceive the advantages of this mode of transport over the slow, expensive, and dangerous carriage on the backs of mules and horses, across a land unprovided with roads.
Dick Deadeye was in a very melancholy state of mind during this voyage. He lost his appetite, and grumbled to himself a good deal.
He had before this descended the Bojana with Frankish friends, and knew that there was a great water further on, associated in his mind with partings and sorrow; for whenever his companions reached its shores, they would go away from him in a big londra, never to return.
He looked very plaintively at us all the day, for he knew that the cruel old story was to be repeated.
Early in the afternoon we reached the bend in the river that had been described to us, so once more shouldered our guns and commenced our march. Our way lay across a flat country covered with a dense jungle of thorn. The road was if possible more abominable than any other we had met with during our whole journey.
It was not till late at night that we reached Dulcigno, and took up our quarters in a dirty little khan, for this port possesses no such thing as an hotel. We cooked some beef, and after a good supper retired to a hay-loft, where we were able to make ourselves very comfortable for the night.
The next morning we were able to inspect Dulcigno. A very picturesque little place it is, built at the foot of a fine valley, which opens on the sea. There is no harbour, properly speaking—merely an unprotected roadstead. We were told that the Austrian Lloyd’s steamers did not touch here now, but anchored off a valley some two hours further north, where there was better shelter. When the wind blows strong on shore, the steamer cannot touch even there.
Dulcigno is a town of about 6000 inhabitants. These are for the most part Mussulmen. They have a peculiarly ferocious look, and seem to have little occupation.
Dulcigno was once a prosperous place, for many a ship was here launched and equipped for piratical purposes. Her sailors were renowned as being the bravest and most ferocious buccaneers of the Mediterranean. We have now come to look upon piracy as such an extinct profession, in the Mediterranean at least, that it seems strange to remember that it is, after all, but a few years since this was the ostensible occupation of the whole population of this coast. Many of the discontented, wild-looking fishermen we saw mending their nets on the shingle beach well remembered the good old times, and had themselves taken a part in seizing some stately Italian schooner, or bright-coloured Dalmatian felucca. We found the carrier and his string of horses just starting for the spot off which the Austrian Lloyd anchors, to unload or take on board goods for and from Scutari. As several of the horses were without burdens, we were able to ride. The road from Dulcigno to the little bay to which we were bound was across the most fertile and cultivated country we had yet seen in Albania. We passed through very forests of olives; groves of oranges covered the steep hills that sloped down to the calm Adriatic; pretty white houses, built in the Italian style, were seen rising from the groves; and the people we met on the way had a prosperous look about them, which astonished us, and reminded us that we were approaching civilization.
At last we came on a valley whose slopes were entirely covered with olives. At the foot of this valley, the two hills that formed it projected into the sea, terminating in precipitous cliffs, thus forming a little shingle-fringed bay. This was our destination. By the shore were pitched three or four tents, where were encamped a body of soldiers—I presume, on coast-guard duty; for their officer had rather a queer discussion with Marco as to the contents of our coffin. He wished to have it opened. Marco indignantly refused to allow anything of the sort to be done. “They are Englishmen,” he said. This, he thought, was a sufficient explanation. The good fellow had one definite and fixed idea, at any rate, on the subject of Englishmen. He considered that they were a worthy and eccentric people, who had no country of their own, but who, by divine right, were entitled to do exactly what they liked in any country, not being subject to any laws whatever. This idea, I have found, is shared with him by many of my travelling countrymen.
There was a shrill whistle, and the steamer suddenly appeared round the southern point.
We placed our baggage in a boat, bid adieu to Marco, who kissed our hands over and over again, and wept to see us go; enjoined him to see Dick Deadeye safely back to Scutari—and embarked. Poor Dick Deadeye was inconsolable. It required Marco and two soldiers to hold him back from jumping into the boat after us. The wailings of the poor old dog were most pathetic.
I suppose that he is now vagabondizing about the capital once more, philosophizing on the inconstancy of human friendship. By this time, probably, he has re-attached himself to his old friends the frontier commissioners, who, I believe, were to renew their labours this May. Our general appearance, our baggage, especially the coffin with its painted lid, caused some amusement on the steamer.
I will not enter into the incidents of our return journey. For seven days we steamed along the wild coast, and among the rocky islands, till we reached Trieste, whence we took train for Calais, and so back to London. It was just after that heavy snowstorm that extended over nearly half of Europe.
From Trieste to London the whole country was deeply buried. At Venice the snow was two feet deep. In Paris all traffic had been stopped. London was little better.
And now I must bid farewell to those that have followed me thus far; and to those that seek a tourist-unexplored, not over-inaccessible country, for a summer tour, let me strongly recommend these interesting lands of ancient Illyria.
FINIS
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——. See “History of a Crime.”
Hundred Greatest Men (The). 8 vols., containing 15 to 20 Portraits each, 21s. each. See below.
“Messrs. Sampson Low & Co. are about to issue an important ‘International’ work, entitled, ‘THE HUNDRED GREATEST MEN;’ being the Lives and Portraits of the 100 Greatest Men of History, divided into Eight Classes, each Class to form a Monthly Quarto Volume. The Introductions to the volumes are to be written by recognized authorities on the different subjects, the English contributors being Dean Stanley, Mr. Matthew Arnold, Mr. Froude, and Professor Max Müller: in Germany, Professor Helmholtz; in France, MM. Taine and Renan; and in America, Mr. Emerson. The Portraits are to be Reproductions from fine and rare Steel Engravings.”—Academy.
Hygiene and Public Health (A Treatise on). Edited by A. H. Buck, M.D. Illustrated by numerous Wood Engravings. In 2 royal 8vo vols., cloth, one guinea each.
Hymnal Companion to Book of Common Prayer. See Bickersteth.
Illustrated Text-Books of Art-Education. A Series of Monthly Volumes preparing for publication. Edited by Edward J. Poynter, R.A., Director for Art, Science and Art Department.
| PAINTING. | |
| Classic and Italian. | French and Spanish. |
| German, Flemish, and Dutch. | English and American. |
| ARCHITECTURE. | |
| Classic and Early Christian. | Gothic, Renaissance, & Modern. |
| SCULPTURE. | |
| Classic and Oriental. | Renaissance and Modern. |
| ORNAMENT. | |
| Decoration in Colour. | Architectural Ornament. |
Illustrations of China and its People. By J. Thompson, F.R.G.S. Four Volumes, imperial 4to, each 3l. 3s.
Jimmy’s Cruise in the Pinafore. See Alcott.
Keble Autograph Birthday Book (The). Containing on each left-hand page the date and a selected verse from Keble’s hymns. Imperial 8vo, with 12 Floral Chromos, ornamental binding, gilt edges, 15s.
Kingston (W. H. G.). See “Snow-Shoes.”
—— Child of the Cavern.
—— Two Supercargoes.
—— With Axe and Rifle.
—— Begum’s Fortune.
—— Heir of Kilfinnan.
—— Dick Cheveley.
Lady Silverdale’s Sweetheart. 6s. See Black.
Lentils. See “Food for the People.”
Life and Letters of the Honourable Charles Sumner (The). 2 vols., royal 8vo, cloth. Second Edition, 36s.
Low’s German Series—
1. The Illustrated German Primer. Being the easiest introduction to the study of German for all beginners, 1s.
Buchheim’s Deutsche Prosa. Two Volumes, sold separately:—
Low’s International Series of Toy Books. 6d. each; or Mounted on Linen, 1s.
1. Little Fred and his Fiddle, from Asbjörnsen’s “Norwegian Fairy Tales.”
2. The Lad and the North Wind, ditto.
3. The Pancake, ditto.
1. The Great Lone Land. By Major W. F. Butler, C.B.
2. The Wild North Land. By Major W. F. Butler, C.B.
3. How I found Livingstone. By H. M. Stanley.
4. The Threshold of the Unknown Region. By C. R. Markham. (4th Edition, with Additional Chapters, 10s. 6d.)
5. A Whaling Cruise to Baffin’s Bay and the Gulf of Boothia. By A. H. Markham.
6. Campaigning on the Oxus. By J. A. MacGahan.
7. Akim-foo: the History of a Failure. By Major W. F. Butler, C.B.
8. Ocean to Ocean. By the Rev. George M. Grant. With Illustrations.
9. Cruise of the Challenger. By W. J. J. Spry, R.N.
10. Schweinfurth’s Heart of Africa. 2 vols., 15s.
11. Through the Dark Continent. By H. M. Stanley. 1 vol., 12s. 6,d.
My Lady Greensleeves. By Helen Mathers, Authoress of “Comin’ through the Rye,” “Cherry Ripe,” &c.
Three Feathers. By William Black.
A Daughter of Heth. 13th Edition. By W. Black. With Frontispiece by F. Walker, A.R.A.
Kilmeny. A Novel. By W. Black.
In Silk Attire. By W. Black.
Lady Silverdale’s Sweetheart. By W. Black.
History of a Crime: The Story of the Coup d’État. By Victor Hugo.
Alice Lorraine. By R. D. Blackmore.
Lorna Doone. By R. D. Blackmore. 8th Edition.
Cradock Nowell. By R. D. Blackmore.
Clara Vaughan. By R. D. Blackmore.
Cripps the Carrier. By R. D. Blackmore.
Erema; or My Father’s Sin. By R. D. Blackmore.
Innocent. By Mrs. Oliphant. Eight Illustrations.
Work. A Story of Experience. By Louisa M. Alcott. Illustrations. See also Rose Library.
The Afghan Knife. By R. A. Sterndale, Author of “Seonee.”
A French Heiress in her own Chateau. By the author of “One Only,” “Constantia,” &c. Six Illustrations.
Ninety-Three. By Victor Hugo. Numerous Illustrations.
My Wife and I. By Mrs. Beecher Stowe.
Wreck of the Grosvenor. By W. Clark Russell.
Elinor Dryden. By Mrs. Macquoid.
Diane. By Mrs. Macquoid.
Poganuc People, Their Loves and Lives. By Mrs. Beecher Stowe.
A Golden Sorrow. By Mrs. Cashel Hoey.
Low’s Handbook to the Charities of London. Edited and revised to date by C. Mackeson, F.S.S., Editor of “A Guide to the Churches of London and its Suburbs,” &c. 1s.
Macgregor (John) Description of the “Rob Roy” Canoe, with Plans, &c., 1s.
Magazine (Illustrated) for Young People. See “St. Nicholas.”
Memoirs of Madame de Rémusat, 1802-1808. By her Grandson, M. Paul de Rémusat, Senator. Translated by Mrs. Cashel Hoey and Mr. John Lillie. 4th Edition, cloth extra. This work was written by Madame de Rémusat during the time she was living on the most intimate terms with the Empress Josephine, and is full of revelations respecting the private life of Bonaparte, and of men and politics of the first years of the century. Revelations which have already created a great sensation in Paris. 8vo, 2 vols. 32s.
Michael Strogoff. 10s. 6d. and 5s. See Verne.
Mitford (Miss). See “Our Village.”
Montaigne’s Essays. See “Gentle Life Series.”
Nares (Sir G. S., K.C.B.) Narrative of a Voyage to the Polar Sea during 1875-76, in H.M.’s Ships “Alert” and “Discovery.” By Captain Sir G. S. Nares, R.N., K.C.B., F.R.S. Published by permission of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. With Notes on the Natural History, edited by H. W. Feilden, F.G.S., C.M.Z.S., F.R.G.S., Naturalist to the Expedition. Two Volumes, demy 8vo, with numerous Woodcut Illustrations, Photographs, &c. 4th Edition, 2l. 2s.
“What I have to offer are not a few impressions, scrambled together in the haste of the moment, but are the result of many years of comparison and experience.”—From the Author’s “Prelude.”
Mary Anerley. By R. D. Blackmore, Author of “Lorna Doone,” &c. 3 vols.
Countess Daphne. By Rita, Authoress of “Vivienne” and “Like Dian’s Kiss.” 3 vols.
Sunrise. By W. Black. In 15 Monthly Parts, 1s. each.
Wait a Year. By Harriet Bowra, Authoress of “A Young Wife’s Story.” 3 vols.
Sarah de Beranger. By Jean Ingelow. 3 vols.
The Braes of Yarrow. By C. Gibbon. 3 vols.
Elaine’s Story. By Maud Sheridan. 2 vols.
Prince Fortune and His Friends. 3 vols.
North American Review (The). Monthly, price 2s. 6d.
Nursery Playmates (Prince of). 217 Coloured pictures for Children by eminent Artists. Folio, in coloured boards, 6s.
Oberammergau Passion Play. See “Art in the Mountains.”
Old-fashioned Girl. See Alcott.
“The book, as a whole, meets a distinct need; its engravings are excellent, its coloured leaves and leaflets singularly accurate, and both author and engraver appear to have been animated by a kindred love of their subject.”—Saturday Review.
Palliser (Mrs.) A History of Lace, from the Earliest Period. A New and Revised Edition, with additional cuts and text, upwards of 100 Illustrations and coloured Designs. 1 vol. 8vo, 1l. 1s.
“One of the most readable books of the season; permanently valuable, always interesting, often amusing, and not inferior in all the essentials of a gift book.”—Times.
—— Historic Devices, Badges, and War Cries. 8vo, 1l. 1s.
Petites Leçons de Conversation et de Grammaire: Oral and Conversational Method; being Lessons introducing the most Useful Topics of Conversation, upon an entirely new principle, &c. By F. Julien, French Master at King Edward the Sixth’s School, Birmingham. Author of “The Student’s French Examiner,” “First Steps in Conversational French Grammar,” which see.
Phillips (L.) Dictionary of Biographical Reference. 8vo, 1l. 11s. 6d.
Photography (History and Handbook of). See Tissandier.
Physical Treatise on Electricity and Magnetism. By J. E. H. Gordon, B.A. With about 200 coloured, full-page, and other Illustrations. Among the newer portions of the work may be enumerated: All the more recent investigations on Striæ by Spottiswoode, De la Rue, Moulton, &c. An account of Mr. Crooke’s recent researches. Full descriptions and pictures of all the modern Magnetic Survey Instruments now used at Kew Observatory. Full accounts of all the modern work on Specific Inductive Capacity, and of the more recent determination of the ratio of Electric units (v). It is believed that in respect to the number and beauty of the Illustrations, the work will be quite unique. 2 vols., 8vo, 36s.
Pinto (Major Serpa). See “King’s Rifle.”
—— Morals. Uniform with Clough’s Edition of “Lives of Plutarch.” Edited by Professor Goodwin. 5 vols., 8vo, 3l. 3s.
Polar Expeditions. See Koldewey, Markham, Macgahan, and Nares.
Publishers’ Circular (The), and General Record of British and Foreign Literature. Published on the 1st and 15th of every Month, 3d.
Rémusat (Madame de). See “Memoirs of.”
Robinson (Phil). See “In my Indian Garden.”
Rochefoucauld’s Reflections. Bayard Series, 2s. 6d.
Rogers (S.) Pleasures of Memory. See “Choice Editions of Choice Books.” 2s. 6d.
Rose in Bloom. See Alcott.
Rose Library (The). Popular Literature of all countries. Each volume, 1s.; cloth, 2s. 6d. Many of the Volumes are Illustrated—
1. Sea-Gull Rock. By Jules Sandeau. Illustrated.
2. Little Women. By Louisa M. Alcott.
3. Little Women Wedded. Forming a Sequel to “Little Women.”
4. The House on Wheels. By Madame de Stolz. Illustrated.
5. Little Men. By Louisa M. Alcott. Dble. vol., 2s.; cloth, 3s. 6d.
6. The Old-Fashioned Girl. By Louisa M. Alcott. Double vol, 2s.; cloth, 3s. 6d.
7. The Mistress of the Manse. By J. G. Holland.
8. Timothy Titcomb’s Letters to Young People, Single and Married.
9. Undine, and the Two Captains. By Baron De La Motte Fouqué. A New Translation by F. E. Bunnett. Illustrated.
10. Draxy Miller’s Dowry, and the Elder’s Wife. By Saxe Holm.
11. The Four Gold Pieces. By Madame Gouraud. Numerous Illustrations.
12. Work. A Story of Experience. First Portion. By Louisa M. Alcott.
13. Beginning Again. Being a Continuation of “Work.” By Louisa M. Alcott.
14. Picciola; or, the Prison Flower. By X. B. Saintine. Numerous Graphic Illustrations.
15. Robert’s Holidays. Illustrated.
16. The Two Children of St. Domingo. Numerous Illustrations.