Preface
This book deals with that part of the French Riviera which is commanded by the Great Corniche Road—the part between Nice and Mentone—together with such places as are within easy reach of the Road.
I am obliged to the proprietors of the Times for permission to reprint an article of mine contributed to that journal in March, 1920. It appears as Chapter XXXVII.
I am much indebted to Dr. Hagberg Wright, of the London Library, for invaluable help in the collecting of certain historical data.
FREDERICK TREVES.
Monte Carlo,
Christmas, 1920
| Contents | ||
| Chapter | Page | |
| 1. | Early Days in the Riviera | 1 |
| 2. | The Corniche Road | 8 |
| 3. | Nice: The Promenade des Anglais | 14 |
| 4. | Nice: The Old Town | 19 |
| 5. | The Siege of Nice | 29 |
| 6. | Cimiez and St. Pons | 36 |
| 7. | How the Convent of St. Pons came to an End | 41 |
| 8. | Vence, the Defender of the Faith | 49 |
| 9. | Vence, the Town | 59 |
| 10. | Grasse | 67 |
| 11. | A Prime Minister and Two Ladies of Grasse | 80 |
| 12. | Cagnes and St. Paul du Var | 97 |
| 13. | Cap Ferrat and St. Hospice | 104 |
| 14. | The Story of Eze | 118 |
| 15. | The Troubadours of Eze | 123 |
| 16. | How Eze was Betrayed | 127 |
| 17. | The Town that Cannot Forget | 135 |
| 18. | The Harbour of Monaco | 143 |
| 19. | The Rock of Monaco | 151 |
| 20. | A Fateful Christmas Eve | 161 |
| 21. | Charles the Seaman | 165 |
| 22. | The Lucien Murder | 170 |
| 23. | How the Spaniards were got rid of | 176 |
| 24. | A Matter of Etiquette | 181 |
| 25. | The Monte Carlo of the Novelist | 187 |
| 26. | Monte Carlo | 191 |
| 27. | Some Diversions of Monte Carlo | 195 |
| 28. | An Old Roman Posting Town | 206 |
| 29. | The Tower of Victory | 214 |
| 30. | La Turbie of To-day | 224 |
| 31. | The Convent of Laghet | 231 |
| 32. | The City of Peter Pan | 239 |
| 33. | The Legend of Roquebrune | 248 |
| 34. | Some Memories of Roquebrune | 252 |
| 35. | Gallows Hill | 259 |
| 36. | Mentone | 265 |
| 37. | The First Visitors to the Riviera | 273 |
| 38. | Castillon | 281 |
| 39. | Sospel | 286 |
| 40. | Sospel and the Wild Boar | 294 |
| 41. | Two Queer Old Towns | 297 |
| Index | 305 | |
| List of Illustrations | |
| A Riviera Garden | Frontispiece |
| FACING PAGE | |
| At the Bend of the Road | 8 |
| Nice: The Old Terraces | 16 |
| Nice: Rue du Sénat | 26 |
| Nice: A Street in the Old Town | 32 |
| Cimiez: The Roman Amphitheatre | 36 |
| Cimiez: The Marble Cross | 40 |
| Cimiez: The Monastery Well | 40 |
| Vence: The East Gate and Outer Wall | 52 |
| Vence: The Church and Court of Bishop’s Palace | 58 |
| Vence: Old House in the Place Godeau | 62 |
| Vence: Rue de la Coste | 62 |
| Grasse: The de Cabris House | 68 |
| Grasse: The Cathedral | 72 |
| Grasse: The Place aux Aires | 76 |
| Grasse: Rue de l’Evêché | 80 |
| Grasse: Rue sans Peur | 90 |
| Cagnes | 96 |
| Cagnes: The Town Gate | 98 |
| Cagnes: The Place Grimaldi | 100 |
| Cagnes: The Castle | 100 |
| St. Paul du Var | 102 |
| St. Paul du Var: The Entry | 102 |
| St. Paul du Var: The Main Gate | 102 |
| St. Paul du Var: A Side Street | 104 |
| St. Paul du Var: A Shop of the Mediæval Type | 104 |
| Cap de St. Hospice | 108 |
| St. Hospice: The Madonna and the Tower | 108 |
| Villefranche | 110 |
| Villefranche: The Main Street | 112 |
| A Road in Beaulieu | 114 |
| Eze | 120 |
| Eze: The Main Gate | 124 |
| A Street in Eze | 134 |
| Eze: On the Way to the Castle | 138 |
| Eze: All that Remains of the Castle | 138 |
| Cap d’Ail, near Monaco | 144 |
| Monaco | 148 |
| Monaco: The Sentry Tower on the Rampe | 156 |
| Monaco: The Drawbridge Gate, 1533 | 156 |
| Monaco: The Palace | 162 |
| Monaco: The Old Hôtel de Ville | 168 |
| Monaco: The Cliff Garden | 172 |
| The Gorge between Monaco and Monte Carlo | 178 |
| The Chapel of St. Dévote | 184 |
| Monte Carlo from Monaco | 192 |
| Monte Carlo: The Terrace, Christmas Day | 196 |
| Monte Carlo: The Casino Garden | 202 |
| The Roman Monument, La Turbie | 206 |
| A Corner in La Turbie | 210 |
| A Street in La Turbie | 216 |
| La Turbie: Old Window in the Rue Droite | 216 |
| La Turbie: The Old Bakehouse | 224 |
| La Turbie: La Portette | 226 |
| La Turbie: The Fortress Wall, showing the Roman Stones | 226 |
| La Turbie: The Nice Gate | 228 |
| Laghet | 232 |
| Laghet: The Entrance | 234 |
| Laghet: One of the Cloisters | 236 |
| Roquebrune, from near Bon Voyage | 240 |
| Roquebrune: The East Gate | 246 |
| Roquebrune: The Place des Frères | 246 |
| Roquebrune: Showing the Castle | 252 |
| Roquebrune: Rue de la Fontaine | 256 |
| The Roman Milestones, “603” | 258 |
| A Piece of the Old Roman Road | 258 |
| The Roman Fountain near La Turbie | 260 |
| Gallows Hill | 262 |
| Mont Justicier: The Two Pillars of the Gallows | 262 |
| The Chapel of St. Roch | 264 |
| Mentone: The Old Town | 266 |
| Mentone: The East Bay | 268 |
| Mentone: Rue Longue | 272 |
| Mentone: A Doorway in the Rue Longue | 274 |
| A Side Street in Mentone | 276 |
| A Side Street in Mentone | 278 |
| Mentone: Rue Mattoni | 278 |
| Castillon: (In the snow) | 280 |
| Castillon: The Entry to the Town | 280 |
| Castillon: The Main Street | 282 |
| Castillon: The Main Street and Church Door | 284 |
| Sospel: The Old Bridge | 286 |
| Sospel: The River Front | 288 |
| Sospel: The Place St. Michel | 290 |
| A Square in Sospel | 292 |
| Sospel: The Ruins of the Convent | 292 |
| A Street in Sospel | 294 |
| Sospel: The City Wall and Gate | 294 |
| A Street in Gorbio | 298 |
| A Street in Gorbio | 298 |
| A Street in St. Agnes | 300 |
| A Street in St. Agnes | 302 |
THE RIVIERA OF THE
CORNICHE ROAD