Bangor
the oldest Episcopal see in Wales; being founded in 516.
The situation is deeply secluded, “far from the bustle of a jarring world,” and must have accorded well with monastic melancholy; for the Monks, emerging from their retired cells, might here indulge in that luxurious gloominess, which the prospect inspires, and which would soothe the asperities inflicted upon them by the severe discipline of superstition. The situation of Bangor appears more like a scene of airy enchantment than reality; and the residences of the Canons are endeared to the votaries of landscape by the prospect they command. On the opposite shore, the town of Beaumaris was seen straggling up the deep declivity, with its quay crowded with vessels, and all appeared bustle and confusion; the contrast, which the nearer prospect inspired, was too evident to escape our notice, where the
“Oak, whose boughs were moss’d with age,
And high top bald with dry antiquity,”
afforded a seat for the contemplation of the wide expanse of the ocean, which is seen beyond the little island of Puffin, or Priestholm; so called from the quantity of birds of that species, which resort here in the summer months.
The cathedral has been built at different times, but no part very ancient; the church was burnt down by Owen Glendwr, in the reign of King Henry IV.; the choir was afterwards built by Bishop Henry Dene, (or Deane), between the years 1496 and 1500; the tower and nave by Bishop Skevington, in 1532. The whole is Gothic architecture, and the interior of the cathedral has, within the last six years, been altered, and now presents a most imposing effect. The choir, which formerly was only fifty-two feet in length, has been extended into the nave, and is in length 110 feet from the east window; the remaining part of the nave has been neatly fitted up with free pews, for the Welsh congregation, and will accommodate about 700 persons. The choir will contain about 600 persons. The late improvements were done by a public subscription, which amounted to nearly 4000l. and the money has been expended in the most beneficial and tasteful manner, under the superintendance of the Rev. J. H. Cotton, Precentor and Senior Vicar, by whose praise-worthy exertions, the money was collected in different parts of the United Kingdom. There are several bishops 200 buried in the choir. I could dwell with pleasure on the picturesque beauties of this little episcopal see; but a repetition of the same epithets, grand, beautiful, sublime, fine, with a long catalogue, which must necessarily occur, would appear tautologous on paper, though their archetypes in nature would assume new colours at every change of position of the beholder.
This bishopric owes the chief of its revenues and immunities to Anian, bishop of the diocese, in the reign of Edward the First; who, being in high favour with that monarch, and having had the honour of christening the young prince, born at Caernarvon, afterwards Edward the Second, had, as a compensation for the temporalities confiscated in the reign of King Henry the Third, various manors, ferries, and grants from the revenues of the principality allotted to the see.
Mr. Evans, in his valuable work, the Topography of North Wales, has clearly refuted the improbable charge made against Bishop Bulkely, of having sold the cathedral bells; and, on the contrary, proves from documents, that the cathedral was indebted to him for considerable repairs, and that likewise by his will he was a benefactor to it; this falsehood, which originated with Godwin, in his Treatise, entitled “De Presulibus,” as a piece of scandal against the church, met with but too ready a belief from former tourists, whose false records Mr. Evans deserves great credit for refuting.
Bangor is governed by the Bishop, whose steward holds the courts. From being a quiet, retired place, it has now become a scene of commercial bustle and activity, and is rapidly rising into an important town. The opening of Lord Penrhyn’s slate quarries, and the great increase of travelling through it since the union with Ireland, have been the great causes of its increased and growing prosperity. From the convenience for sea-bathing, the excellent new roads which branch from it in every direction, the beauties of scenery which surround it on every side, its proximity to many of the finest objects which Wales can boast of, and the great interest which is excited by the suspended bridge over the Menai Strait, it has become a place of fashionable resort; and during the summer exhibits a scene of gaiety and cheerfulness, that forms a striking contrast to its ancient monastic gloom. The tourist will find this a fit spot for his head quarters, as he can branch out in various directions, and each affords him ample scope for his sketch-book or his contemplation.
Public baths are much wanted here; and it is to be hoped that the spirit of improvement, which has lately manifested itself in this neighbourhood, will not rest till these are accomplished.
The castle is said to have been built by Hugh, Earl of Chester, in the reign of William the Second; it stood on a steep hill, on the south side of Bangor, called Castle Bank, but there is not at this time a vestige remaining.
A pleasant walk leads to the Bangor Ferry Inn, delightfully situated, overlooking the Straits of