Preface
I know that of making books of travel there is no limit—they come from the press in a never-ending stream; but no one can say that any one of these is superfluous if it finds appreciative readers, even though they be but few.
My chief excuse for the present volume is the success of my previous books of motor travel, which have run through several fair-sized editions. I have had many warmly appreciative letters concerning these from native Englishmen and the books were commended by the Royal Automobile Club Journal as accurate and readable. So I take it that my point of view from the wheel of a motor car interests some people, and I shall feel justified in writing such books so long as this is the case.
I know that in some instances I have had to deal with hackneyed subjects; but I have striven for a different viewpoint and I hope I have contributed something worth while in describing even well-known places. On the other hand, I know that I have discovered many delightful nooks and corners in Britain that even the guide-books have overlooked.
Besides, I am sure that books of travel have ample justification in the fact that travel itself is one of the greatest of educators and civilizers. It teaches us that we are not the only people—that wisdom shall not die with us alone. It shows us that in some things other people may do better than we are doing and it may enable us to avoid mistakes that others make. In short, it widens our horizon and tones down our self-conceit—or it should do all of this if we keep ears and eyes open when abroad.
I make no apology for the fact that the greater bulk of the present volume deals with the Motherland, even if its title does not so indicate. Her romantic charm is as limitless as the sea that encircles her. Even now, after our long journeyings in every corner of the Island, I would not undertake to say to what extent we might still carry our exploration in historic and picturesque Britain. Should one delight in ivy-covered castles, rambling old manors, ruined abbeys, romantic country-seats, haunted houses, great cathedrals and storied churches past numbering, I know not where the limit may be. But I do know that the little party upon whose experiences this book is founded is still far from being satisfied after nearly twenty thousand miles of motoring in the Kingdom, and if I fail to make plain why we still think of the highways and byways of Britain with an undiminished longing, the fault is mine rather than that of my subject.
In this book, as in my previous ones, the illustrations play a principal part. The color plates are from originals by distinguished artists and the photographs have been carefully selected and perfectly reproduced. The maps will also be of assistance in following the text. I hope that these valuable adjuncts may make amends for the many literary shortcomings of my text.
THOMAS D. MURPHY
Red Oak, Iowa, January 1, 1914.
| CONTENTS | ||
| Page | ||
| I | BOULOGNE TO ROUEN | 1 |
| II | THE CHATEAU DISTRICT | 29 |
| III | ORLEANS TO THE GERMAN BORDER | 45 |
| IV | COLMAR TO OBERAMMERGAU | 59 |
| V | BAVARIA AND THE RHINE | 77 |
| VI | THE CAPTAIN’S STORY | 104 |
| VII | A FLIGHT THROUGH THE NORTH | 125 |
| VIII | THE MOTHERLAND ONCE MORE | 145 |
| IX | OLD WHITBY | 157 |
| X | SCOTT COUNTRY AND HEART OF HIGHLANDS | 173 |
| XI | IN SUTHERLAND AND CAITHNESS | 191 |
| XII | DOWN THE GREAT GLEN | 210 |
| XIII | ALONG THE WEST COAST | 224 |
| XIV | ODD CORNERS OF LAKELAND | 246 |
| XV | WE DISCOVER DENBIGH | 262 |
| XVI | CONWAY | 279 |
| XVII | THE HARDY COUNTRY AND BERRY POMEROY | 298 |
| XVIII | POLPERRO AND THE SOUTH CORNISH COAST | 320 |
| XIX | LAND’S END TO LONDON | 336 |
| XX | THE ENGLISH AND THEIR INSTITUTIONS | 355 |
| LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS | |
| COLOR PLATES | |
| Page | |
| THE MOUNTAIN MEADOWS, BAVARIAN TYROL | Frontispiece |
| SUNSET IN TOURAINE | 1 |
| WOODS IN BRITTANY | 26 |
| PIER LANE, WHITBY | 164 |
| HARVEST TIME, STRATHTAY | 180 |
| A HIGHLAND LOCH | 188 |
| ACKERGILL HARBOUR, CAITHNESS | 204 |
| GLEN AFFRICK, NEAR INVERNESS | 208 |
| THE GREAT GLEN, SUNSET | 210 |
| “THE COTTER’S SATURDAY NIGHT” | 236 |
| THE FALLEN GIANT—A HIGHLAND STUDY | 240 |
| CONWAY CASTLE, NORTH WALES | 280 |
| “THE NEW ARRIVAL” | 282 |
| KYNANCE COVE, CORNWALL | 334 |
| SUNSET NEAR LAND’S END, CORNWALL | 336 |
| “A DISTANT VIEW OF THE TOWERS OF WINDSOR” | 355 |
| DUOGRAVURES | |
| ST. LO FROM THE RIVER | 18 |
| A STREET IN ST. MALO | 24 |
| CHENONCEAUX—THE ORIENTAL FRONT | 32 |
| AMBOISE FROM ACROSS THE LOIRE | 34 |
| GRAND STAIRWAY OF FRANCIS I. AT BLOIS | 36 |
| PORT DU CROUX—A MEDIEVAL WATCHTOWER AT NEVERS | 46 |
| CASTLE AT FUSSEN | 66 |
| OBERAMMERGAU | 70 |
| ULM AND THE CATHEDRAL | 82 |
| GOETHE’S HOUSE—FRANKFORT | 86 |
| BINGEN ON THE RHINE | 88 |
| CASTLE RHEINSTEIN | 90 |
| EHRENFELS ON THE RHINE | 92 |
| RUINS OF CASTLE RHEINFELS | 94 |
| LUXEMBURG—GENERAL VIEW | 102 |
| ST. WULFRAM’S CHURCH—GRANTHAM | 150 |
| OLD PEEL TOWER AT DARNICK, NEAR ABBOTSFORD | 178 |
| HOTEL, JOHN O’GROATS | 200 |
| URQUHART CASTLE, LOCH NESS | 214 |
| THE MACDONALD MONUMENT, GLENCOE | 220 |
| “McCAIG’S FOLLY,” OBAN | 224 |
| GLENLUCE ABBEY | 242 |
| SWEETHEART ABBEY | 244 |
| WORDSWORTH’S BIRTHPLACE—COCKERMOUTH | 250 |
| CALDER ABBEY, CUMBERLAND | 252 |
| KENDAL CASTLE | 258 |
| KENDAL PARISH CHURCH | 260 |
| DENBIGH CASTLE—THE ENTRANCE AND KEEP | 266 |
| ST. HILARY’S CHURCH, DENBIGH | 272 |
| GATE TOWERS RHUDDLAN CASTLE, NORTH WALES | 276 |
| PLAS MAWR, CONWAY, HOME OF ROYAL CAMBRIAN ACADEMY | 284 |
| INNER COURT, PLAS MAWR, CONWAY | 286 |
| CONWAY CASTLE—THE OUTER WALL | 292 |
| BERRY POMEROY CASTLE, ENTRANCE TOWERS | 312 |
| BERRY POMEROY CASTLE—WALL OF INNER COURT | 316 |
| A STREET IN EAST LOOE—CORNWALL | 322 |
| POLPERRO, CORNWALL—LOOKING TOWARD THE SEA | 324 |
| LANSALLOS CHURCH, POLPERRO | 326 |
| A STREET IN FOWEY—CORNWALL | 330 |
| PROBUS CHURCH TOWER, CORNWALL | 332 |
| MAPS | |
| FRANCE AND GERMANY | 380 |
| SCOTLAND | 388 |
| ENGLAND AND WALES | 388 |
Through Summer France and
The Fatherland
On Old-World Highways