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Travels in Ethiopia

by G. A. Hoskins

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Contents

CHAPTER I.
Intended Return to Cairo. — Arrival of Artist. — Determination to penetrate to Meroe. — Motives. — Advantages to be derived from the Discoveries of Young, Wilkinson, Champollion, and Rosellini. — Departure from Thebes. — Turkish Mode of Fasting. — Arrival at Assuan. — Hints to Travellers on Turkish Etiquette. — Nazr of Berber. — Unpromising Accounts of the Desert. — Detention for Want of Camels. — Sheakh of the Ababde Tribe. — Ruins of Elephantine and Assuan. — Bosnian Soldiers. — Water Skins defective. — Arrival of the Camels. — Commencement of the Journey. — Nubian Poverty. — Caravan from Khartoun. — Cultivation in Lower Nubia. — Singular and Picturesque Scenery. — Nubian Peasantry and their Slaves. — Turkish Humanity. — Roman Enclosure at Dacker. — Provisions in Nubia. — Similarity of a modern and ancient Custom. — Nubians, their Prejudices, Poverty, Food, Want of Religion, and Drunkenness. — Their domestic Comfort, and comparative Freedom. — Wady el Arab. — Arrival at Korosko. — Preparations for crossing the Great Nubian Desert. — The Governor of Korosko. — Drunken Coptic SecretaryPage 1
CHAPTER II.
Commencement of the Journey across the Great Nubian Desert. — Description of the Caravan. — Advantages of Turkish Dress and Customs. — Provisions necessary for the Desert. — Akaba, or Mountain Passes. — Dead Camels. — Fear of Robbers. — Anxiety about the Stock of Water. — Arab Opinion of Travellers. — Alarming Diminution of our Water. — Dead Bodies of Slaves and Camels. — Hojab el Jenous. — Bab el Korosko. — Age of the Camel. — Bahr Bela Ma, or Sea without Water. — Mirage. — Perils and Charms of the Desert Life. — Dilet el Doom, Valley of the Shade of the Dooms. — Gold Mines. — Omrishi Sufir. — Wells now dry. — El Murrah, or the Well of Bitter Waters. — Hieroglyphics on the Rocks. — Colony of Bishareen. — Height and Character of the Mountains. — Arab Songs. — Gazelle. — Danger of leaving Caravan. — Absah Gold Mines. — Storms in the Desert. — Cambyses. — Bruce. — Arab Manner of mounting the Camel. — Manner in which the Arabs repose. — Arrival at the Nile. — Estimate of the Length of the Route and general Pace of the Camel17
CHAPTER III.
Abou-Hammed. — Fortified House of the Sheakh. — Island of Mograt. — Population. — Tax to the Pasha. — Tropical Rains. — Arab Raft. — Fortunate Escape. — Manner in which the Camels pass the River. — Gagi. — Description of the Harem of a Sheakh. — Office hereditary. — Habitation of a Sheakh. — Ethiopian Flies. — Doum Trees. — Abou-Hashim and other Villages. — Cultivation. — Arab Civilities. — Berber Sheep and Goats. — Villages and Islands. — Arab Burial-ground. — General Character of the Country. — Tract of Desert. — Wild Asses. — Fifth Cataract. — Present State of numerous Villages. — Arrival at Makkarif, Capital of Berber34
CHAPTER IV.
Visit to the Governor. — Court and ancient Chiefs of the Country. — Hospitable Reception. — Turkish Entertainments. — Character of the Governor. — His Attentions. — Style of living. — Dongolah Horses. — Anecdotes, Costumes, and Portraits of the Chiefs. — Turkish Knowledge of the Arts. — Bazaar of Makkarif. — Houses. — Manufactory of Indigo. — Extent of Cultivation. — Population. — Camels’ Hides. — Sugar Manufactory. — Ethiopian Wool. — Bishareen Tribe. — Manner of collecting their Tribute. — Ababdes and other Arab Tribes. — Turkish Policy. — Burckhardt. — Character of the People. — Arabs of the Desert44
CHAPTER V.
Departure from Makkarif. — Various Villages. — The Mugrum, ancient Astoboras. — Route to Goss Redjab. — Verdant Appearance of the Island of Meroe. — Voyage on the Astapus. — Numerous Villages. — Cottages. — Hippopotami. — Manner of destroying them. — Villages. — Arrival at the Pyramids of Meroe62
CHAPTER VI.
MEROE.
Historical Evidence that this is the Cemetery of the Capital of Ethiopia. — The imposing Appearance, Number, Position, and Dimensions of the Pyramids. — Ethiopian Arch. — Proofs that the Knowledge of the Arts descended front Ethiopia. — Edifices of a pyramidal Form the best adapted to resist the Ravages of Time. — Peculiar Style of the Sculpture. — The Language of Hieroglyphics generally known in Ethiopia. — The Style of the Sculpture the Criterion of the Age. — Monumental, geological, and historical Evidence that the Knowledge of the Arts descended from Meroe. — Description of the Sculpture. — Name of Meroe on the Monuments. — Meroe peculiarly interesting, as the Birth-place of the Arts. — Sandstone Quarries. — Site of the City. — Villages of the present Inhabitants. — Agriculture. — Cailliaud66
CHAPTER VII.
Departure from the Ruins. — Numerous Villages, one called Meroueer. — Shendy. — Fortified House of the Melek. — Insignificance of the present Capitals of Ethiopia. — Population of Shendy. — Bazaar. — Prices of Camels, Slaves, &c. — Manner of transacting Business. — Women of Shendy. — Slave System. — Power of the ancient Meleks. — Their Wives. — Army of the Pasha. — Death of Ismael Pasha. — Metammah. — The Katshef of that Place, and his Court. — Katshef of Shendy86
CHAPTER VIII.
Departure from Shendy. — Difficulties. — Desert. — Visit from and Anecdotes of Lions. — Immense Ruins. — Confusion of the Plan. — Built by bad Architects. — Detailed Description of the principal Temple. — Style of the Sculpture. — Other Ruins. — Singular Situation of the Ruins. — The Purpose for which they were constructed. — Their probable Age94
CHAPTER IX.
Deficiency of Water. — Return to the Nile. — Wild Animals. — Ancient Canal. — Temple of Abou Naga. — Difficulties. — The modern Capitals of Ethiopia. — Sennaar. — The Difficulty of penetrating to the Source of the Bahr el Abiad. — Tribe of Arabs on its Banks. — Water less sweet than that of the Bahr el Azruk. — Arab Description of the River. — Inundation of the Nile. — Return to Shendy. — Mameluke Exercise111
CHAPTER X.
Metammah. — Difficulty of finding Camels to cross the Bahiouda Desert. — Wretched State of the Peasants when attacked by Illness. — Intermittent Fevers. — Costumes of Metammah. — Women of high Rank. — Their long Nails. — Manner of increasing their Length. — Bahiouda Desert. — Wells at Aboulay. — Reflections on the Desert Life. — Shageea Tribe. — Wells called Gagdool. — Signor B. unwell. — Hassanyeh Tribe. — Animals of the Desert. — Greyhound Dog. — Well of Magaga. — Dangerous Illness of Signor B. — Well of delicious Water called Haless. — Beauty of the Scenery. — Shepherd Boys. — Character of the Rocks. — Wells of good Water called Hannek and Prasoli. — The Manner the Shageea salute. — Coptic Christian Church. — Arrival at the Town of Meroueh. — Hieroglyphics on a Slab in the Castle123
CHAPTER XI.
Antiquities of Gibel el Birkel. — Description and Dimensions of the Mountain. — Temple built by the Tirhaka of the Bible. — Various other interesting Remains and Temples. — Pyramids. — Circular and pointed Arch invented in Ethiopia134
CHAPTER XII.
Present Inhabitants of Birkel. — Funeral Ceremonies in the Mahometan Burial-grounds. — Name of Rameses II. or Sesostris. — Description of the present State of the Country. — Indigo Manufactories. — The Shageea Tribe. — One of their Meleks. — Pyramids of Nouri, dilapidated State. — Curious Construction of one. — General Dimensions. — Antiquity. — Comparison between the ancient and modern Buildings of Ethiopia. — Return to Meroueh. — Turkish Manner of being paid for Services. — Voyage down the Nile. — Numerous Villages. — Shageea Tribe. — Intoxication, Learning, &c. — Various Villages and Islands. — Effects of the Climate and other Peculiarities of this Country on the Character of the People. — Noble Manners of the Arabs. — Dongolah Agous. — Probable Site of Napata. — Negro Slaves. — Effects of the Cruelty of their Owners. — Encroachments of the Desert. — Cultivation. — Peasants160
CHAPTER XIII.
Visit to the Governor. — Extent of his Government. — Indigo. — Water Wheels. — Population. — Taxes. — Prices of Produce. — Oasis of Dongolah, called El Gab. — Route to Kordofan. — Information about that Country. — Baneful Climate. — Captain Gordon. — Arab Tribes of Kordofan. — General Appearance of New Dongolah. — The Bazaar. — Curious Use of Ointment. — Merchandise. — The Bazaar. — Slave Market. — Commerce carried on by Barter. — Curious Manner of effecting Sales. — Dongolah Goldsmith. — Auctioneers. — Various Arab Tribes. — Costumes. — Women, the Elegance of their Attire. — Breaking of the Rat. — Giraffe. — Hassanyeh Tribe. — Elephants176
CHAPTER XIV.
Marriage and other Ceremonies of Dongolah. — Character of the People, their Habitations. — Women, their Amusements. — Arab Tale. — Government of Dongolah189
CHAPTER XV.
Departure from Dongolah. — Numerous Villages. — Island of Argo. — Residence of the Melek. — Arab Accountants. — Melek Tumbol. — Extent of his Territory. — Arab Manners compared with European. — Philosophy of the Arabs. — The Melek’s Dinner. — Military Force. — Garden. — Visit to the Antiquities. — Numerous Vestiges of ancient Towns. — Colossal Statues. — Remains of a large Temple. — Name of Sabaco, the Conqueror of Egypt. — Entertainment of an Arab Sheakh. — Richness of the Island. — Indigo. — Ethiopian Fort. — Cataract of Toumbos. — Mutilated colossal Statue. — Hospitality of an Arab Sheakh. — Character of the Inhabitants. — Hippopotamus. — Alarming Intelligence. — Revolt of the Mahas. — Dreadful Consequences. — Our providential Escape. — Arab Stories of Travellers204
CHAPTER XVI.
Return to New Dongolah. — The Governor. — His Indecision. — General Alarm. — Interview with the Governor. — His difficult Situation and Want of Energy. — Increase of the Insurgents. — Retreat of the Katshef of Haffeer. — Troops marched out against the Insurgents. — Fears about the Result. — Their Army. — The Battle. — Effects of the Revolt. — Roads impassable. — Return of the Expedition. — Turkish and Arab Evolutions. — Hassanyeh. — Funge. — Curious Assemblage. — Lululoo of the Women. — Turkish System of Government in the Provinces, and present State of the Peasantry and Arabs of the Desert above Wady Halfah222
CHAPTER XVII.
Departure from El Ourde. — Alarms of the Caravan. — Melek Backeet. — Return to Haffeer. — Detention in the Indigo Manufactory. — Nubian Plants. — Second Expedition of the Government. — Fanaticism of the Insurgents. — The Battle. — Prisoners. — Departure from Haffeer. — Description of the Caravan. — Cataract. — Effects of the Revolution. — Splendid Ruins of Solib. — Excavated Tomb near Solib. — Ruins of Sukkot. — Heat of the Climate. — Island of Sais. — Remains of Christian Ruins. — Destructive Effects of the Desert237
CHAPTER XVIII.
Kasr Towaga. — Difficulty of crossing the River. — Indolence of the Arabs. — Arab Sheakh. — Temple of Amarah. — Present Inhabitants. — Wady el Hadjar. — Fortified House on an Island at Dahl. — Cataract of Uckma. — Bigotry of the Inhabitants. — Various Cataracts of the Nile. — Mineral Spring at Tangoure. — Temples of Semneh, on the Western Bank. — Curious Manner of crossing the River. — Temple of Semneh, on the Eastern Bank. — Inscriptions on the Rocks. — The Arab Robber Isah. — Second Cataract of the Nile. — Inducements for Travellers to extend their Journey beyond this Point. — Comparison between Voyages in the Desert and at Sea259
CHAPTER XIX.
ON THE HISTORY OF MERGE.
Obscurity of her Annals. — Historical Associations necessary to render a Country interesting. — Works of Art historical Documents. — Lapidary Inscriptions. — Amunoph III. — Memnon, King of Ethiopia. — Expedition of Semiramis, Queen of Assyria, into Ethiopia. — Ethiopians in the Army of Shishak marched to Jerusalem. — The Sukkiims of Scripture. — Expedition of Zerah, the Ethiopian King of the Bible, and his Defeat by the Tribes of Judah and Benjamin. — The Ethiopian Dynasty of Kings who reigned over Egypt. — The Testimony of the Historians proved by lapidary Inscriptions. — The Name of Tirhaka, King of Ethiopia, who defeated Sennacherib, King of Assyria, found both on the Monuments of Egypt and Ethiopia. — The Names and Titles of this Dynasty of Kings. — Accordance of the Scriptural, monumental, and historical Evidences. — The Sethos of Herodotus, the Tirhaka of Scripture and of the Monuments. — The Sua, King of Egypt of the Bible, the Sevechus of Manetho, and the Shabatok of the Monuments284
CHAPTER XX.
The Emigration of Egyptian Soldiers at the Time of Psammitichus. — Expedition of Cambyses. — Manners, Customs, &c. of the Macrobians, &c. — Curious Customs of the Ethiopians. — Ergamenes, the Ethiopian King’s, Conquests in Lower Nubia. — Atarraman and Silco, Ethiopian Kings. — Expedition of Petronius. — Queen Candace. — Christianity first introduced into Ethiopia. — Its Duration. — Napata, Capital of Candace. — Blemmyes and the Nubians306
CHAPTER XXI.
ON THE COMMERCE OF MEROE.
Requisites for a State enjoying extensive Commerce. — Advantageous Position of Meroe. — Probable Extent of her Commerce. — The Facility afforded to its Extension by Means of the Camel. — Commerce of Arabia and India. — Abundance of Gold. — Iron and Gum. — Ethiopian Tribute to Egypt. — Description of a splendid Ethiopian Procession at Thebes. — Commerce of the Interior. — Causes of the Decline of Meroe. — Diminution of her agricultural Resources. — Exhaustion of Mines. — Rivalry of Egypt. — Wars with Egypt. — Arab Conquest. — Present Commerce321
CHAPTER XXII.
ON THE ARTS OF MEROE.
Affluence would introduce a Taste for the Arts. — The Heat of the Climate favourable to Sedentary Pursuits. — Private Emulation would afford farther Encouragement. — Desire of distinguishing themselves by Intellectual Pursuits. — Testimony of Diodorus that Knowledge was very generally diffused in Ethiopia. — The Pyramids of Meroe the oldest Specimens of Ethiopian Art. — Civilisation of the Ethiopians proved by their monumental Edifices. — The Ethiopians Inventors of the Arch. — Egyptian Arches. — Ethiopian Sculpture. — Probable Cause of their peculiar Style. — Reasons for preserving it. — Deference of the Ptolemies and Romans for the Superstitions of the Egyptians. — Pleasing Effect of the Egyptian and Ethiopian Sculpture. — Admirable Manner of drawing Animals, Hieroglyphics, and their Taste in Ornaments. — Colouring on Ethiopian Sculpture. — The Knowledge of the Arts descended from Ethiopia. — Complexion of the ancient and present Inhabitants. — Accuracy of Diodorus’s Account proved by the Monuments. — Taste for the Arts in a Nation inseparable from other Intellectual Pursuits. — Works of the Ethiopian King Tirhaka. — Review of the Antiquities in Ethiopia. — Folly of comparing the present with the ancient Inhabitants of the Valley of the Nile346

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