Epigraph
“METHOD SHORTENS LABOUR.”
Preface
“But to know
That which before us lies in daily life;
Is the prime wisdom.”
Milton.
The Author of the following pages has been encouraged to hope, that, in placing them, after much deliberation, in the hands of a printer, she is tendering an important and acceptable, however humble, service to persons of her own sex, who, in any condition of life, are engaged, by duty, or inclination, in cutting out wearing apparel in a family, or for their poorer neighbours. She trusts, in particular, that Clergymen’s Wives, Young Married Women, School-mistresses, and Ladies’ Maids may find, in the “Workwoman’s Guide,” a fast and serviceable friend.
The patterns, which comprise all the necessary parts of clothing in great variety, to suit both rich and poor, have been some years in collecting, and are given as the most generally approved shapes and sizes in present use. Economy and neatness of appearance have been equally consulted in choosing them, and all have been successfully tried. In selecting and arranging the Infant’s wardrobe, the comfort of the little wearers and ease of dressing, have been accurately studied. Interested by the feelings of a Mother in this division of her book, the Author has worked at it with especial zeal and assiduity, and submits it with particular confidence.
To assist the unpractised in understanding the written descriptions, almost every pattern is likewise drawn twice (see Plates), so as not only to represent its appearance when cut out, but also when made up. The difficulty of describing irregular and complicated shapes has been obviated by enclosing each in a square, marked with a scale of nails; by which means, even sleeves, collars, capes, and bonnets can be cut out with unfailing precision. In a charity school, for which the Author was much interested, and for the use of which, both her collection of patterns was originally begun, and her drawings made, girls from ten to sixteen years of age were in the constant habit of cutting out correctly and easily, with no other guidance than the drawings. To sketch the pattern on a slate, and to cut it out first in paper, was all the facility afforded to, or needed by, beginners.
The Reader, as she advances, will see that this work is not confined to the simply cutting out and making up articles of dress, but likewise includes the important subjects of House Linen and Upholstery, and that the minor branches of knitting and straw platting have their places. Directions which, it is trusted, will be found useful, respecting various other points of domestic industry, are not omitted.
On the general plan of the work, and the motives which have induced the writer to venture it before the Public, she need not, perhaps, say more. A few words are near her heart, which she does not resist the temptation of adding.
A woman, who in the upper classes of society, has taken her place at the head of a family, has undertaken a high and responsible situation; but one, in which, by daily attention to certain humble details, she can essentially serve the welfare of some who are dear to her, and of many who are dependent on her.
The Author, as an Englishwoman, reflects with pride upon the number of her country women, whom the gifts of nature, and a brilliant or careful education enables to grace their place in society. She believes that very many of them are further qualified, as far as good will and natural intelligence can go, to discharge those humbler, but not less honourable, parts of their calling, to which she has alluded, but are deterred from applying to them (or much embarrassed if they do), from finding that, whilst they are proficients in many beautiful accomplishments, and not without cultivation in the more solid parts of information, they are yet mere novices in other unostentatious attainments, that have become indispensable to their domestic efficiency. The complete remedy for this inconvenience can only be found in making some further knowledge of domestic arts and economy a prominent part of the education of our daughters; home and school must both be called upon to contribute. Amongst the arts in question, the homely one of cutting out is entitled to rank high, for subserviency to comfort and elegance, as well as to economy, whenever this is an object, and in what fortune can it wisely be neglected? It is one which may seem peculiarly fitted to be taught in schools, by the conveniency of the means for teaching, by its cleanliness, and, if the Author may be allowed to say so, by its intellectual character, since to cut out well, it is necessary to think, and indeed the art, continually depending upon exact measurements, proportions and even correct diagrams, or figures, must be considered as a sort of unassuming household mathematics. Dress, it seems, has of late been admitted by philosophical critics to the dignity of a fine art: it both requires and cultivates taste, and the consideration of a pleasing effect and air in dress is first applied in the cutting out.
No one who has not been a frequent visitor in the homes of the poor, is aware of the extravagance and waste usual among women of a humble class, arising from their total ignorance in matters of cutting out and needle-work, nor how much instruction they want on those points, even to the making of a petticoat and a pinafore. The same ignorance and unskilfulness, and the same consequent waste of laborious and scanty earnings is common among our female household servants; who, by putting out their clothes to dress-makers, pay nearly half as much for the making up as for the materials. The direct saving of expense upon articles of dress, were they qualified to work for themselves, would, with all persons in these conditions of life, be an important annual item. But the indirect and further benefit would be of infinitely more account. The thrifty disposition, the regularity and neatness, the ideas of order and management, inspired by the conscious ability and successful exertion, in one leading branch of good housewifery, cannot be too highly prized or diligently cultivated; for the result is moral. The orderly house but reflects the orderly mind; the humble wife and mother, whose active indefatigable hand, silently executing her careful ingenious thought, improves the comforts, the visible respectability, and real condition of her husband and children, is mistress of a secret for blending her best and tenderest affections with the employment of every day: she contrives judiciously what she constantly and earnestly meditates, and finds no weariness in the labour to which strength continually flows from a deep fountain in her heart.
Personal investigation alone can satisfy those ladies who interest themselves in the welfare of the poor, how useful a kindness they would exercise in making efficient systematic instruction, in these arts, an ordinary and important part of school business.
Could the Author hope that the little work, in which she has endeavoured to arrange the elements of cutting out progressively, would ever be admitted as a manual in the village school-room, a cherished wish of her heart would be gratified; in the mean time, she will be glad to think, that she may have saved some wives and mothers, entering upon their arduous vocations, a part of the inconveniences experienced by herself, although accounted a tolerable workwoman in the general acceptation of the term, when, on assuming the former of these characters, she was compelled to rely on her own resources.
The Author must here acknowledge her obligations to that valuable little work “Cottage Comforts;” also to the “Teacher’s Assistant in Needlework” and “Knitting,” and a few others, for some useful suggestions.
CHAPTER V. On Baby Linen, with Scales for the Clothes of Older Children. Caps; Cockades; Rosettes; Infants’ Open Shirts; first Flannel Gowns; Flannel Bands; Night-gowns; Pinafores; Petticoats; Robes; Receiver; Shawl; Flannel Cloak; Child’s Bib; Infants’ Pelisses and Cloaks; Infant’s Hood; Cots; Cribs; Cradles; Basket; Pincushion.
CHAPTER VI. Linen for Men, Women, Girls, and Boys. Women’s Shifts; Child’s Shifts; Child’s Trowsers; Girl’s Trowsers; Trowsers for Girls or Boys; Leglets; Women’s Drawers; Turkish Trowsers; Men’s Drawers; Women’s Night Jackets; Night-gowns; Flannel Waistcoat for a Lady; Boys’ Waistcoats; Man’s Under Waistcoat; Boy’s Upper Waistcoat; Child’s Night Vest; Child’s Day Vest; Bathing Gown; Women’s Night-caps; Caps for poor Women; Caps for Servants; Caps for School girls; Bathing Cap; Dressing-gowns for Men; Dressing-gowns for Women; Cloak Dressing-gown; Dressing Jacket; Flannel Petticoats; Pockets; Frills; Cuffs; Tidy Cuffs; Mourning Cuffs; Aprons; Dress Aprons; Working Aprons; Apron Pockets; Grocers’ Aprons; Cooking Apron; Pantry Apron; Gentleman’s Working Apron; Neck-tie; Scarfs; Women’s Stays; Nursing Stays; Men’s Stays or Belts; Children’s Stays; Bustles; Veils; Long and short Sleeves for Children; Long and short Sleeves for grown-up Persons; Old Woman’s Sleeve; Boy’s Sleeve; Shoulder-pieces; Capes; Collars; Riding Collar; Habit-shirt; Chemisette; School-girl’s Tippet; Petticoats; Nursing Petticoat; Gowns; General observations on Colours; On the making up and choosing Dresses; General observations on cutting out Dresses; Bodies of Gowns—high, low, full, plain; On trimming Bodies of low Dresses; Nursing Gowns; Children’s Frocks and Tunics; Boy’s Surtout; Child’s Pelisses; Day-caps; Morning Caps; Bonnet Caps; Cap for an Old Lady; Caps for the Society of Friends; Lappets; Widow’s Cap; Velvet or Silk Cap; Care of the Lady’s Wardrobe; To fold up Dresses and Frocks; General observations on Packing; Care of the Gentleman’s Wardrobe; Mourning and Dress at Funerals; Pinafores and Saccarines for Children; Housemaid’s Pinafore; School-girl’s Pinafore; Surgeon’s Pinafore; Waggoner’s Smock-frock; Shirts for the Labouring Classes; Gentlemen’s Shirts; Gentlemen’s Shirt Fronts; Boys’ Shirt Fronts; Gentlemen’s Stocks; Clergyman’s Dress; The Cassock; The Gown; The Surplice; The Sash; Scarf; Bands; The Clerk’s Gown; Children’s Bonnets; Hats and Caps for Boys; Travelling Caps; Lady’s Riding Cap; Working Man’s Cap; Women’s Bonnets; Old Women’s Bonnets; Bonnet for a Member of the Society of Friends; School-girl’s Bonnet; Oiled Silk Hood; Calèche; Women’s Cloaks; Mantelet or short Cloak; Carriage Cloak; Old Woman’s Cloak and Hood; School-girl’s Cape or Cloak; Boy’s Cloak; Shawls; Shawl for a Member of the Society of Friends; Quilted Shawl; Mourning Shawl; Spencers for Children; Tippet and Sleeves; Neck Handkerchiefs; Pocket Handkerchiefs; Bridal Favours; Men’s Slippers; Ladies’ Slippers; Travelling or Over-shoes; Half-slippers; Carriage Slippers; Babies’ Shoes; On covering Shoes; Gloves; On Down and Fur; Muffs; Boas; Tippets; Operas or Ruffs; To clean Fur and Down; To preserve Fur.
CHAPTER VII. House Linen. Division into Bed-room, Table and Pantry, Housemaid’s, Kitchen, and Stable Linen; Number required, kinds to be chosen, size and price of each; Sheets; Pillow-slips; Towels; Toilette or Dressing Table Covers; Table Cloths; Dinner Napkins; Doyleys; Knife-box Cloths; Pantry Knife Cloths; Pantry Dresser Cloths; Plate-basket Cloth; Pantry China Cloths; Pantry Glass Cloths; Pantry Lamp Cloths; Waiting Gloves; Housemaid’s Dusters; Scouring Flannels; Paint Cloths; Chamber Bottle Cloths; Chamber Bucket Cloths; Clothes Bags; Kitchen Table Cloths; Dresser Cloths; Roller Cloths; Dusters; Tea Cloths; Jelly Bags; Ham Bags; Cheese Cloths; Stable Linen; General observations on Linen; On marking House Linen; Linen Press; Washing Books—Nursery Washing Book; Lady’s Washing Book; Gentleman’s Washing Book; House Linen Washing Book.
CHAPTER VIII. Upholstery. General observations; Bedsteads—all their parts and the different kinds; Hints on putting up Beds; On furnishing Beds; General observations on the choice and arrangement of Drapery for Beds; On the Heads and Tops of Beds; Footboards; The Half-tester; French Pole Bed; French Arrow Bed; French Bed; French Block Bed; French Canopy Bed; Turn-up Bed; Press Bed; Stump Bed; Trestle Bed; Hanging Bed or Cot; Mattresses; Beds; Bolsters and Pillows; Blankets; Counterpanes; Watch-Pockets; Carpets; List of different kinds; General observations on making up Carpets; Window Curtains—Various kinds of Drapery for Windows; Curtains for a Passage or Church Window; Muslin Curtains; Half Curtains; Full Curtains; Rod Curtain; Window Blinds; Chair, Sofa, and other Covers; Divan; Footstools and Hassocks; Church Basses; Church Seats; Table Covers; Screens.
CHAPTER IX. Covers, Cases, &c. Night-gown Bag; Travelling Dressing-case or Tidy; Glove Cases; Pocket Handkerchief Case; Shoe or Brush and Comb Bags; Shoe Bags; Mat; Boot Bags; Nursery Bag; Book Covers; Trunk Cover; Knife or Fork Case; Card Case; Candlestick Case; Nosegay Case; Wool Case; Housewife; Yard Measure; Pincushions; Bags; Needle Case; Work Basket; Travelling Bag; School-girl’s Badge; Carriage Case or Portfolio; Travelling Portfolio; Seaman’s or Traveller’s Case; Gentleman’s Travelling Dressing-Case; Watch Pocket; Invalid’s Chair.
CHAPTER X. Receipts. Marking Ink; Red Marking Ink; To remove Marking Ink; Salts of Lemon; To take out Ink without Salts of Lemon; Bleaching Liquid; To remove Stains; Scouring Drops; To remove Grease; To take out Mildew; To take out Iron-moulds; To remove Paint Spots; To clean Silks and Cottons; To restore scorched Linen; To clean Calico Furniture; To clean Chintz; To scour Carpets; To wash Silk Handkerchiefs; To wash coloured Muslins, &c.; To restore the colour of Linen; To wash China-crape Scarfs, &c.; To wash Blonde; To wash Lace; To wash Kid Gloves; To clean white Satin Shoes; To keep Blonde, &c.; To dye Gloves like York-Tan or Limerick; To dye white Gloves purple; Wash for Leather Gloves; To dye Cotton a Nankeen colour; To dye the Linings of Furniture buff or salmon colour; To clean Gold and Silver Lace; To preserve Linen from Moths; To preserve Woollens and Blankets; To preserve Furs and Woollens from Moths; To varnish old Straw or Chip Hats; To raise the surface of Velvet; To make Starch; To make Court Plaister; Lavender Water; Eau de Cologne; Powder for Infants’ Dust Bags; Pot-Pourri; Scent Bags; To make Shoes Waterproof; Remedy against Fleas; Remedy against Bugs; To destroy Bugs; To destroy Flies; General observations on Washing and Ironing; List of Articles required in a Laundry; Washing; Hanging to dry; Mangling and Ironing; Clear Starching; Gaufiering.
CHAPTER XI. Knitting. Knitting Pins; Materials for Knitting; Knit Stitches; Casting on Stitches; Common Knitting Stitch; Dutch common Knitting; Turn or Seam Stitch; Widening; Narrowing; Slipping a Stitch; Finishing off; Welting; Binding; Fancy Stitches; Double Knitting; Open Hem Stitch; Honey-comb Stitch; French Stitch; Fantail Stitch; Network Stitch; Open Cross Stitch; Berlin Wire Stitch; Plain open Stitch; Crowsfoot Stitch; Chain Stitch; Embossed Hexagon Stitch; Common Plat; Elastic Rib; Rough-cast or Huckaback Stitch; Embossed Diamond Stitch; Ladder Stitch; Imitation Double Knitting; Herring-bone Stitch; Purse Stitch; Lace wave Stitch; Herring-bone Bag Stitch; Improved Open Stitch; Shawl Pattern; Cross-stitch Pattern; Curb Stitch; Ribbed Stitch; Diamond Stitch; Raised French Stitch; Two coloured Chain Stitch; Rug Stitch; The Nondescript; A New Stitch; Muffatee Stitch; Knit Fringes; Fringe and Border; Stockings—General proportions for Stockings; Scale for Stockings; Socks; Garters; Socks for Babies; Babies’ Socks or Slippers; Child’s long Sock; Child’s first Stocking; The Ribbed Boot; The Over shoe; The Snow-heel; Little Night Boots; Socks for Invalids; Knit Boots; Scale for Knit Boots; Night Socks; Knit Sole; Knee Cap; Knit Gloves; Driving Mits; Mittens for Babies; Mittens; Armlets; Muffatees; Frill or Ruff; Scarf; Comforter; Handkerchief; Knit Habit-shirt; Knit Half-handkerchief; Honey-comb Shawl; A Tippet; A Purse; A Baby’s Knitted Cap; Baby’s Hood; Gentleman’s Night-cap; Knitted Bags; Kettle Holders; Knit Open Braid; Mats; Coverlet; Blankets; Knit Cotton Doyleys.
CHAPTER XII. General observations on Straw Platting. Apparatus required; Bleaching Box; Mill for the Plat; Bonnet Stand; Box Iron; Dyeing Kettle; Straw Splitter; On preparing Straw; On Bleaching Straw; Dyeing Straw black; Directions for Platting; Plats; Plats of Three; Plat of Four; Angular Plat of Four; Plat of Five; Plats of Six; Plats of Seven; Plats of Eight; Plats of Nine; Plats of Ten; Plats of Eleven; Plat of Twelve; Plats of Thirteen; Plat of Fourteen; Plat of Fifteen; Plat of Sixteen; Hollow Spiral Straw work; The Tuscan Hat; English Leghorn Plat; Bonnets; Receipts for Stiffening; On cleaning Bonnets; Turning Bonnets; Hats; Mats; To make Bobbin Tape.