Chapter VII Food From the Garden
The home vegetable garden should supply an important part of the food for every family living in the country. Vegetables that are of the right varieties and that are fresh and properly prepared are nutritious, wholesome and economical. Not only does the well-organized home garden reduce the cost of feeding the family, but it constitutes an effective method of maintaining better health among all members of the household. Even common vegetables that are grown from the best varieties and served fresh will be a revelation to those accustomed to buying them in stores. Deterioration in quality and palatability begins immediately in vegetables when they are harvested. The more perishable the commodity, the greater is the rate of deterioration.
The commercial vegetable grower usually inclines toward varieties that are capable of producing a heavy yield per acre or that stand shipment and temporary storage with the least apparent loss from deterioration. In order to have his products reach the consumer in an attractive condition, the commercial grower usually must harvest them before they are at their best. The channels through which vegetables and fruits pass on their way to the city consumer are devious, slow and costly. Such a consumer therefore usually receives so-called fresh products that have been removed from the plant or the soil before maturity is attained and after such already poor quality has deteriorated through aging processes.
All these disadvantages of vegetables purchased in the city are eliminated by the possessor of a garden where he may produce his family’s needs (and they are genuine needs) in the way of fresh vegetables. These products are essential in supplying such necessary elements as minerals, vitamins, acids, and cellulose. Dietary authorities advise that leafy vegetables, sometimes called “greens,” contain food elements not found in root vegetables. For the maintenance of health, the diet should include a variety of vegetables besides potatoes.
Assets of a Garden.—A garden is a source of recreation, pleasure and satisfaction to every member of the family. Real enjoyment can be had by working in it a little time each day. To those whose work may be sedentary and of a routine nature, the garden furnishes a source of inspiration and adventure. Daily evidences of plant growth and the novelty of having vegetables of one’s own growing stimulate interest in it. The garden is an aid in maintaining health through physical exercise and the liberal consumption of the fruits of labor. There is no other avenue of activity that can afford so much in the way of health, economical recreation and pleasure as a well-planned garden.
Having decided on a garden, the question immediately arises as to the procedure to be followed to get the most out of it. Special attention has been given to this problem by experts throughout the country and specific recommendations are now available on the subject at state agricultural colleges. These cover varieties, planting dates, adequate area, fertilization, rotation of crops and storage. Typical recommendations along these lines are given here for the north-central and eastern states. Readers living elsewhere may wish to check them with the practices recommended by authorities in their home states.
Vegetable Growing by Rule.—The most effective method of presenting the story of recommended vegetables, desirable varieties, seed required, average yields and other pertinent data is in tabular form, such as that used in Table I, which has been prepared for the aid of home vegetable gardeners by the New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station, and which is based on years of study of the subject. Table II, prepared by the Michigan State College of Agriculture, shows the amount of seed that should be purchased to supply an adequate quantity and variety of important vegetables for a family of six persons.
Examination of the planting table will show that the setting of plants or roots is occasionally recommended instead of the use of seed. This is desirable in some cases to get quicker results and in other cases is essential if a crop is to be secured during a normal growing season. While it is possible for the grower to raise these plants, or sets, himself, usually more satisfactory results can be obtained through buying them from a capable plant grower. The growing of sets is a specialized business requiring conditions of heat, moisture, fertility and skill, frequently beyond the patience and capacity of the amateur. There are plant growers in nearly every neighborhood who will grow the needed plants at small cost. Arrangements should be made in advance for growing the varieties or strains that are wanted, and usually the grower can furnish his own seed for the plants if that seems desirable to him. One desiring to grow one’s own plants from seed can secure full information from a practical grower or from state and county agricultural agencies.
Table I
PLANTING TABLE FOR VEGETABLES1
| Name of vegetable | Variety | Seed for 100-row | Depth to sow seed, inches | Distance between rows for cultivation, inches | Distance between plants in row, inches | Time of planting seed outdoors | Time of harvest | Average yield 100-foot row | Average days from seed to harvest | |
| Horse | Hand | |||||||||
| Asparagus | Washington, Palmetto | 1-yr.-old roots | 8-10 roots | 5 ft. | 4 ft. | 16 | — | Spring-July 1 | 15 2-lb. bunches | 2 yr. |
| Beans | ||||||||||
| Green bush | Stringless Green Pod | ½ pt. | 1-1½ | 30 | 18 | 3 | Apr. 15 | June 20 | 2 bu. | 40-65 |
| Bountiful | July 15 | Sept. 15-Frost | ||||||||
| Yellow bush | Currie’s Rust Proof, | ½ pt. | 1-1½ | 30 | 18 | 3 | Apr. 15 | June 20 | 2 bu. | 50-70 |
| Davis’ White Wax | July 15 | Sept. 15-Frost | 2-2½ bu. | 95-100 | ||||||
| Pole Green | Kentucky Wonder, Old Homestead | ½ pt. | 1-1½ | 36 | 30 | 10-30 | May 1-20 | Aug. 5 | 2-2½ bu. | 95-100 |
| Bush Lima | Fordhook | ½ pt. | 1-1½ | 30 | 30 | 10 | May 1-July | Aug. 1-Frost | 2 bu. | 110-120 |
| Pole Lima | King of the Garden | ½ pt. | 1-1½ | 48 | 36 | 36 | May 15 | Aug. 1-Frost | 2 bu. | 110-120 |
| Beets—early | Crosby’s Egyptian | 1 oz. | 1 | 28 | 15 | 2-3 | Apr. 1 | July 15 | 2-2½ bu. | 45-60 |
| Late | Detroit Dark Red | July 20 | Nov. 15 | |||||||
| Cabbage—early | Jersey Wakefield, Copenhagen Market | 1 pkt. | ½ | 30 | 30 | 18 | Apr. 15 | July-Sept. | 45-55 heads | 100-120 |
| Cabbage—late | Danish Ball Head, Succession | 1 pkt. | ½ | 36 | 30 | 18 | July 1 | Oct.-Nov. | 45-55 heads | 120-150 |
| Cantaloupe | Early Knight, Fordhook | ½ oz. | 1 | 54-60 | 40 | 48 hill | May 15 | Aug. 10 | 6-8 fruits per hill | 90-110 |
| Carrots | Chantenay, | 1 oz. | ½ | 30 | 15 | 1-1½ | Apr. 1 | Aug. 1 | 2 bu. | 65-90 |
| Oxheart | July 1 | Nov. | ||||||||
| Celery | Golden Self-blanching, Easy Blanching | 1 pkt. | ¼ | 36 | 30 | 6 | June 1 | Sept. 15 | 200 stalks | 120-150 |
| Corn–early | Golden Bantam, Howling Mob | ¼ lb. | 1 | 36 | 30 | 15 or 30 hill | May 1 | July 12 | 4 doz. ears | 60-75 |
| Corn–early | Golden Bantam, Howling Mob | ¼ lb. | 1 | 36 | 30 | 15 or 30 hill | May 1 | July 12 | 4 doz. ears | 60-75 |
| Corn–late | Golden Bantam, | ¼ lb. | 1 | 36 | 30 | 18 or 30 hill | June 15 | Aug. 20-Frost | 4 doz. ears | 75-90 |
| Evergreen | July 1 | |||||||||
| Cucumber | White Spine, | ½ oz. | ½-1 | 48-60 | 48 | 48 hill | May 15 | July 10 | 200 cucumbers | 60-75 |
| Davis Perfect | Aug. 20 | 1½ bu. pickles | ||||||||
| Eggplant | New York Improved, Black Beauty | 1 pkt. | ½ | 48 | 48 | 48 | June 1 | Aug. 20-Frost | 125 fruits | 140-160 |
| Endive | Green Curled, Broad Leaved Batavian | 1 pkt. | ½ | 30 | 18 | 56 | Apr. 15 | June 15 | 65 plants | 60-90 |
| July 15 | Oct.-Nov. | |||||||||
| Kale | Scotch Curled, | 1 pkt. | ½ | 30 | 18 | 18 | Apr. 1 | June 1 | 60 bu. | 55-65 |
| Siberian (over winter) | Sept. 1 | Apr. | ||||||||
| Kohlrabi | White Vienna | 1 pkt. | ½ | 30 | 15 | 3-4 | Apr. 15 | June 15 | 2 bu. | 50-70 |
| Lettuce | ||||||||||
| Spring and fall | Green-leaved Big Bos. | 1 pkt. | ½ | 18-20 | 15 | 14-18 | Apr. 15-June 1 | Aug. 15-Oct. | 70 head | 70-90 |
| Summer | N. Y. Salamander | 1 pkt. | ½ | 18-20 | 15 | 14-18 | May 15 | June 1 | 70 head | 70-90 |
| Romaine | G. R. Exp., Trianon | 1 pkt. | ½ | 18-20 | 15 | 14-18 | Aug. 1 | July-Aug. | 70 head | 70-90 |
| Okra | Perkins Long Pod | 1 oz. | 1 | 36 | 30 | 10-15 | May 15 | Aug. 10 | 900-1000 pod | 90-140 |
| Onion sets | Yellow Strasburg, Japanese (Eberheser) | 1 qt. | 1 | 18 | 14 | 1 | Apr. 1 | May 15 | 140 bunches | 45-75 |
| Onion seed | Yellow Globe Danvers, Southport Globe | 1 oz. | ½ | 18 | 14 | 1 | Apr. 1 | Aug. 20 | 1½-2 bu. | 110-130 |
| Parsnips | Hollow Crown | ½ oz. | ½ | 18 | 15 | 3-4 | Apr. 1-May 15 | Sept.-Nov. | 2 bu. | 140-160 |
| Peas | Little Marvel, Laxtonian, Telephone | 1 pt. | 1-1½ | 30 | 30 | 2 | Apr. 1-15 | June 10-July | 2 bu. (in pods) | 45-70 |
| Peppers | Ruby King, Pimento | 1 pkt. | ½ | 36 | 30 | 18-20 | May 15 | Aug. 15-Frost | 5 bu. (6 per plant) | 125-150 |
| Potatoes | Irish Cob., Green Mts. | ½ pkt. | 3-4 | 36 | 36 | 14 | Apr. 15 | July 1 | 3 bu. | 90-120 |
| Pumpkins | Cheese, Small Sugar | 1 oz. | ½ | 60 | 60 | 48 | May 15 | Sept. 1-Frost | 75 pumpkins | 70-90 |
| Radish | Scarlet Globe, Icicle | ½ oz. | 12 | 15 | 5 | 1 | Apr. 15 | June 1 | 100 bunches | 30-65 |
| Sept. 1 | Oct. 25 | |||||||||
| Rhubarb | Victoria | Roots | 5-6 | 48 | 48 | 48 | Mar.-Apr. | May-Nov. | 8-10 stalks plant | 1 yr. |
| Spinach—spring | Bloomsdale, Savoy | ½ oz. | ½ | 20 | 15 | 2 | Mar. | May | 3 bu. | 45 |
| Spinach—summer | New Zealand | 1 oz. | 1 | 48 | 36 | 36 | Apr. 15 | June 15 | Cut all summer | 65-120 |
| Spinach—fall | Va. Dis., Resist. Savoy | ½ oz. | ½ | 20 | 15 | 2 | Aug.15-Sept. 15 | Oct.-Nov. | 3 bu. | 50-60 |
| Squash—summer | Gold. Sum. Crookneck, White Bush Scallop | 1 oz. | 1-1½ | 48 | 48 | 48 | May 15 | July 10 | 136 squash | 60-70 |
| Squash—winter | Boston Marrow, Warted Hubbard | 1 oz. | 1-1½ | 72 | 72 | 48 | June 1 | Oct. | 75 squash | 120-130 |
| Sweet potatoes | Yel. Jersey | Plants | — | 36 | 36 | 18 | May 15 | Oct. 1-10 | 3 bu. | 140-150 |
| Swiss chard | Lucullus | 1 oz. | ½ | 30 | 30 | 6 | Apr. 15 | June 5-Frost | Pull until frost | 50 |
| Tomatoes—early | Chalk’s Early Jewel, Bonny Best | Plants | ½ | 48 | 36 | 36 | May 15 | July 10-Aug. | 4 bu. | 120-150 |
| Tomatoes—late | Matchless, Stone | Plants | ½ | 48 | 36 | 36 | June 1 | Aug.l-Frost | 4 bu. | 150-170 |
| Turnips | Purple Top Strap. Leaf | 1 pkt. | ½ | 24 | 15 | 2 | Apr. 1 | June l | 2 bu. | 45-70 |
| Rutabagas | Golden Ball, | 1 pkt. | ½ | 24 | 15 | 2 | Aug. 1 | Oct.-Nov. | 2 bu. | 45-70 |
| Lg. Island Improved | 1 pkt. | ½ | 24 | 15 | 2 | Aug. 1 | Oct.-Nov. | 2 bu. | 45-70 | |
Table II
AMOUNT OF SEED TO PURCHASE FOR FAMILY OF SIX2
| Vegetable | Amount to purchase |
| Asparagus | 66 plants |
| Beans, snap (in variety) | 2 to 3 pounds |
| Beans, bush lima | 1 pound |
| Beet | 4 ounces |
| Cabbage: | |
| Early | 1 packet |
| Late | ½ ounce |
| Carrot | 1 ounce |
| Cauliflower | 1 packet |
| Celery | 1 packet |
| Corn, sweet | 2 pounds |
| Cucumber | 1 ounce |
| Eggplant | 1 packet |
| Kale | 1 ounce |
| Lettuce | ½ ounce |
| Muskmelon | 1 ounce |
| Onion sets | 4 quarts |
| Onion seed | 1 ounce |
| Peas | 2 to 4 pounds |
| Parsley | 1 packet |
| Parsnip | 1 ounce |
| Radish (in variety) | 2 ounces |
| Rhubarb | 20 plants |
| Salsify | 1 ounce |
| Spinach | 1 pound |
| New Zealand spinach | 1 ounce |
| Summer pumpkin | 1 ounce |
| Winter pumpkin | 2 ounces |
| Squash | 2 ounces |
| Tomatoes | 1 packet or 50 plants |
| Turnip | 4 ounces |
| Rutabaga | 1 ounce |
| Watermelon | 2 ounces |
Planning and Operating a Home Garden.—In planning the home vegetable garden there are a few essential points to be kept in mind. The time to plan the garden is in winter when adequate consideration can be given to the selection of those vegetables that the family likes best and can use in large amounts. Seeds required should be ordered early for the entire garden. By drawing the plan of the garden on paper and following it, the procedure is simplified and the most efficient results attained.
Vegetables should be planted in rows rather than in beds, and those maturing at about the same time should be grouped together to facilitate succession planting. After the early-maturing crops have been harvested, other crops can be sown on the same area, thus fully utilizing the land throughout the growing season. Perennial crops, including asparagus and rhubarb, should be kept by themselves.
A practical farmer wanting to express perfection in soil preparation is apt to say, “It is just like a garden.” This implies good fertility, optimum moisture conditions and proper tilth. To attain these conditions in garden soil it is desirable to cover it with strawy manure some time previous to plowing, in order that rains may carry the soluble fertility elements into the surface inches of the soil. In the early spring a thorough job of plowing or spading should be done to reasonable depth, completely covering the surface straw or dead plants. Every two or three years lime should be applied after plowing and worked into the top soil at the rate of 1 pound of hydrated lime to every 25 square feet of soil.
Fertilizing and Culture.—The fertility supplied through application of manure should be supplemented by the use of commercial fertilizer. This can be purchased in burlap bags from local supply agencies and should contain about 5 per cent nitrogen, 8 per cent phosphoric acid and 7 per cent potash. Moderate variations in analysis from 5-8-7, as above, are not important so long as the amounts of each element are well balanced. The fertilizer should be broadcast over the garden after plowing, at the rate of 1 pound to every 25 square feet and worked into the soil before planting. Poultry or sheep manure may be used as top dressing to alternate with commercial fertilizer. It should be borne in mind that such animal manures are richer in nitrogen than in other elements and if used to excess may stimulate leaf growth at the expense of yield and quality.
Frequent shallow cultivations are desirable. The ordinary wheel hoe will be found helpful in the cultivating procedure. It should be well understood that cultivation is essential to prevent weed growth and conserve moisture.
If watering or irrigating is necessary in dry weather, it should be thoroughly done. One soaking of the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches is far more effective than frequent light sprinklings. The latter may be more harmful than beneficial through reestablishing capillary movement, permitting the escape of subsoil moisture. Water should be applied under the same conditions that apply when rain falls—on cloudy days or after sunset to prevent “baking” or encrusting of the surface soil as well as to conserve the amount of water needed.
Meeting the Insect Problem.—The sponsor of a garden in which diversified vegetables are grown must be prepared to meet the onslaught of equally diversified insect species. While it is true that insects are multiplying as to species and voraciousness, it is equally true that methods of control are becoming available to cope adequately with most of them. One unfamiliar with our insect infestations will be amazed to find that certain species apparently have had advance notice of his intentions and are sitting about the planted rows awaiting the appearance of the tender shoots.
One of the best methods of combating insects is to create ideal conditions for plant growth. Plants that are underfed through inadequate soil fertility or are weakened by other causes suffer severely from insect attack, while vigorous plants will come through with much less damage. It is advisable to insure rapid germination of seed through careful soil preparation, to seed at the proper time for a quick and vigorous start and to have sufficient available fertility to stimulate growth once the plants have started.
There are two distinct classes of insects, the division being based upon their feeding habits. The larger group, both in the size of the insects themselves and in the number of species, is the leaf-chewing group. These can be destroyed by the application of stomach poisons to the plants under attack. The other group consists of the sucking insects, which penetrate the veins carrying nourishment to the leaves and appropriate it for themselves. Such insects multiply with extreme rapidity, generally feed on the underside of the leaves and may cause complete wilting of the plant before their presence is suspected. In such cases a “contact” spray or dust must be used. This is based on the principle of causing the insect to “inhale” the material through breathing pores along its body. The insecticide must be composed of extremely fine particles or must be of such an oily nature that it will readily penetrate such pores. In addition to these, certain repellent materials are being developed which cause the insect to seek food where the disagreeable conditions do not prevail.
Table III
PRINCIPAL INSECTS AND REMEDIES3
| Plants attacked | Chewing insects | Character of damage | Treatment |
| Tomato, pepper, eggplant, turnip, cabbage, etc. | Flea Beetles | They gnaw or eat small holes in the leaves. | Dust or spray with a prepared nicotine or pyrethrum mixture. Bordeaux mixture sprayed, or dusting for disease is also effective as a repellent. |
| Asparagus | Asparagus Beetle | Feeds on the shoots and brush. | Dust with either arsenate of lead or calcium arsenate, mixed with 1 part of wheat flour. Spray with arsenate of lead or calcium arsenate, 1 tablespoonful if a paste or ½ tablespoonful if a powder, and 1 tablespoonful of lime to 1 gallon of water. |
| All kinds of beans | Mexican Bean Beetle | Eats the under side of leaves | Dust with 1 part of magnesium arsenate mixed with 3 parts of lime, or dust the yellow larva under the leaves with a pyrethrum dust. |
| Early cabbage and cauliflower | Cabbage Maggot | ........................ | Keep the ground thoroughly cultivated around the base of the plant or use tar paper discs for larger plantings. |
| Common Cabbage Worm and Cabbage Looper | Feed on the shoots and brush. | Same as for asparagus beetle. Pyrethrum dust is also very effective. | |
| Cucumber, squash, and melons. | Striped Cucumber Beetle | Eats the leaves and the stem of the very young plants. | Protect with a cheesecloth or do the same as for the asparagus beetle. |
| Pumpkins and squashes | Squash Vine Borer | Kills the vines by eating in the stem. | Take a sharp thin-bladed penknife and slit the stem lengthwise, opening it and killing the borer. Then bank the ground around the stem of the plant. |
| Tomato, eggplant, potato | Potato Beetle | Eats the leaves. | Same as for Cabbage Worm. |
| Tomato | Tomato Horn Worm | Eats the leaves. | Same as for Common Cabbage Worm. |
| Tomato fruits | Tomato Fruit Worm | Eats the tomato fruits. | Same as for Cabbage Worm. |
| Tomato, eggplant, pepper, cabbage, and other crops. | Cutworms | Cut the plants off near the surface of the ground. | Protect with paper collars placed around the stem of the plant, extending 2 or 3 inches above the ground, or distribute poisoned bran mash, placing it near the plant. Thoroughly mix 2 level tablespoonfuls of paris green in 5 pounds of dry bran, then add from 4 to 6 quarts of water in which ½ pint of cheap molasses has been mixed. Cutworms work at night, therefore apply the mash in the late afternoon or evening. |
| Plants attacked | Sucking insects | Character of damage | Treatment |
| Tomato, potato, strawberries, and beans. | Leaf Hopper | Feeds under the leaf, causing a whitening and curve of the leaves with a dying of the edges. | Dust or spray with a prepared nicotine or pyrethrum mixture. Bordeaux mixture is also effective as a repellent. |
| Practically all garden vegetable plants. | Aphis (plant lice) | Sucks the juices on the under side of the leaves and on the stems. | Either dust or spray with a nicotine or pyrethrum mixture as recommended on the package. Be sure to hit the insects on the under side of the leaves. |
| Cabbage group, strawberries, and beans. | Red Spider | Sucks the juices from the under side of the leaves, producing a whitish cast on the cabbage group and a brownish cast on the other groups. Especially prevalent during prolonged dry hot spells. | Apply a dusting sulfur. |
Table III (pages 107-108) describes the character of damage done by both groups of insects, the plants attacked and the most effective methods of control.
Do’s
Grow vegetables for health, recreation and economy.
Organize the vegetable garden for a maximum of output, variety of foods and to facilitate its care.
Use lime and chemical fertilizer or manure liberally for intensive culture.
Combat insects by stimulating plant growth and by using appropriate lethal products.
Don’ts
Don’t plant a garden in hit-or-miss fashion, if maximum food return is expected.
Don’t neglect first appearances of insect damage. Find out the cause of injury and use recommended measures for control.