Descriptions, Culture, Propagation, &c., Of the Best Bulbous Plants for the Open Air.
ALLIUM.—Although about 250 species of this liliaceous genus are known, only a dozen or so are usually met with in gardens—the limited number being probably due to the pungent and not altogether agreeable odour they emit when bruised or cut. In fact, the plants may be briefly described as more or less ornamental Onions, as they belong to the same family as this well-known esculent, and naturally possess a family likeness. The bulbs are tunicated, the leaves either flat as in the Leek, or roundish and hollow as in the ordinary Onion, while the 6-petalled starry flowers are borne in umbels on the top of the shoot that springs out of the bulb under the ground.
The kinds mentioned below flourish in ordinary good garden soil of a gritty nature, that has been deeply dug and well-manured. They are useful for the decoration of the flower border in bold patches, but are probably more natural in grass-land, where they can remain for several years undisturbed. The bulbs may be planted in early autumn, 3 or 4 inches deep—more or less according to the size of the bulbs, and will come into blossom from April and May, till July or August. As cut flowers, they are very ornamental, but unfortunately, they are not greatly used in this way owing to their odour, which some people find quite unbearable. Propagation is effected by means of offsets from the bulbs, or seeds. Two species—A. Moly, and A. neapolitanum—are often forced into early blossoms in the greenhouse, in the way mentioned at p. 46.
The following are the best kinds:—Neapolitanum, Erdeli (see Plate 18, fig. 72), karataviense, triquetrum, ursinum, and zebdanense, all with white or whitish flowers; acuminatum, hirtiflorum, Macnabianum, narcissiflorum (or pedemontanum), Ostrowskianum, Schuberti, and Suworowi, representing rose, magenta, crimson, lilac, and purple shades; the best yellow-flowered kinds are, Moly (Plate 17, fig. 68), flavum, and orientale; while coeruleum (or azureum) is the most attractive species with blue flowers. A. acuminatum is the dwarfest of these, being only about a foot high, the others rarely exceeding 1-1/2 to 2 feet, except perhaps hirtiflorum and Suworowi, which often are 3 feet high.
AMARYLLIS Belladonna (Belladonna Lily).—This charming member of the Narcissus family deserves more extensive cultivation than it enjoys at present. It is a native of South Africa, and has large bulbs—3 to 4 inches or more deep—with thickish, silky-woollen coats, and strap-shaped leaves, usually 12 to 18 inches long. About August and September, the sweet-scented funnel-shaped blossoms of a soft rosy colour (see Plate 31, fig. 111) are produced on top of a stout stalk, 12 to 18 inches high, after the foliage has withered. Some varieties are better than others, but the best of all is that which originated at Kew, and is remarkable for having three or four dozen rich rosy crimson flowers on a scape 2 to 3 feet high.
The Belladonna Lily can only be grown satisfactorily in the open air in the milder parts of the kingdom. The bulbs should be planted about 9 inches deep in a well-drained loamy soil containing plenty of sand and leaf-soil. Beneath a wall facing due south is generally a good position for the plants. In winter, cold rains should be kept off by placing a layer of leaves or litter over the dormant bulbs. The simplest way to increase the stock is to detach the offsets from the old bulbs whenever the latter are disturbed—say every fourth or fifth year.
Note.—The gorgeous plants grown in greenhouses under the name of Amaryllis rightly belong to the genus Hippeastrum, and are too tender for open air culture in our climate.
PLATE 14.
ANTHOLYZA.—The brown-coated corms, sword-like leaves, and the bright-coloured tubular flowers of these plants very much resemble those of the closely-related genus Gladiolus. Indeed, what suits the Gladiolus will suit the Antholyzas in the way of a well-drained loamy soil. A somewhat warmer and sunnier position is, however, necessary, as these South African plants have not been acclimatised by selection and hybridisation in the same way as the Gladiolus. The best-known kinds are æthiopica, with spikes of scarlet and greenish flowers; caffra, rich scarlet; Cunonia, scarlet and black; fulgens, rich coppery rose; and paniculata, with red, brown, and yellow blossoms, and apparently the hardiest of all. They are all best increased by offsets.
BABIANA (Baboon Root).—Charming plants of the Iris family, with fibrous-coated corms about an inch in diameter, stiffish, hairy, plaited leaves, and dense spikes of funnel-shaped flowers. The latter, in most cases, are sweetly scented and brilliantly coloured, and in a cut state, are exceedingly handsome for decorative work. Unfortunately the plants are not very hardy, and can only be grown in the open air in the very warmest and mildest parts of the kingdom with anything like success. In favourable localities the corms should be planted 3 or 4 inches deep, in mild weather, any time between September and November. The soil should be very light, loamy, and well-drained, and the position should be the warmest and sunniest in the garden. Plenty of sand or grit around the corms is an advantage, and a covering of leaves or litter will keep off cold winter rains. Babianas are very useful for cool greenhouse decoration, and may be easily grown in pots, only giving water when roots have developed, and the new leaves are beginning to show. (See p. 46).
The best kinds are disticha, pale blue; plicata, violet blue; ringens, scarlet; stricta, the three outer segments of which are white, the three inner lilac-blue with a dark blotch at the base. This is the best-known kind, and there are many forms of it, notably angustifolia, bright blue tinged with pink; and rubro-cyanea, brilliant blue and crimson. All increased by offsets.
BESSERA elegans.—A pretty liliaceous plant, 1-1/2 to 2 feet high, with slender rush-like leaves, and scarlet or scarlet and white bell-shaped blossoms. Being a native of Mexico it is rather tender, and can only be grown out of doors in the mildest parts of the British Isles in the same way as the Babianas. As a pot plant it may be grown in a cool greenhouse. Increased by offsets from the brown silky-coated corms.
BLOOMERIA aurea.—This is the best known species. It is a native of California and belongs to the Lily family. The small corms are covered with netted pale brown coats, from which spring long narrow leaves, and umbels of bright yellow starry flowers about June or July. B. Clevelandi is another species with smaller yellow flowers. The corms of both kinds should be planted in warm sunny spots in well-drained sandy loam and leaf-soil in the autumn, and a little protection with leaves or litter may be given in cold wet winters.
BOBARTIA aurantiaca.—This pretty member of the Iris family is also known under the name of Homeria. It has roundish corms, an inch or more in diameter, covered with pale brown shaggy fibrous coats. The orange-red or yellow blossoms appear in summer and last a long time. The plant is a native of South Africa, and can only be grown in the mildest parts of the kingdom in the same way as the Babianas, Ixias, &c., which see. Increased by offsets.
BRAVOA geminiflora.—A graceful Mexican plant of the Narcissus family, with roundish fibrous-coated corms over an inch in diameter, and narrow sword-like leaves 12 to 18 inches long. The bright red or scarlet tubular blossoms droop in pairs from stalks 1 to 2 feet high from July onwards. In the milder parts of the kingdom this plant may be grown easily in sheltered sunny spots in rich sandy loam and leaf-soil, protection being only needed in severe winters from cold heavy rains or hard frosts by means of leaves or litter. Increased by offsets in autumn or seeds sown in spring.
BREVOORTIA Ida-Maia (Brodiæa coccinea).—This beautiful Liliaceous plant is popularly known as the "Californian Fire Cracker." It has roundish corms an inch or so in diameter, with brown fibrous coats. The leaves are very narrow, while the tubular flowers are borne in loose umbels in June or July on top of slender wiry stalks 2 to 3 feet high. The shape and colour of the individual blossoms are shown on Plate 19, fig. 75. They are very attractive in bold masses, and are excellent for cutting purposes. In the garden it is essential to support the slender flower-stems with thin sticks to keep the blossoms from trailing in the dirt. During September and October is the best time to plant the corms 3 to 4 inches deep, in rich sandy loam, in warm sunny spots in the border or rock-garden, where they should be allowed to remain for three or four seasons before they need be disturbed. Increased by offsets and seeds.
PLATE 15.
BRODIÆA.—The plants belonging to this genus have practically the same characters as those of Brevoortia, the chief differences being that many (but not all) of the Brodiæas have six fertile stamens instead of three, and the perianth in many cases is more funnel or bell-shaped than cylindrical. The corms are about the same size with netted, brown, silky coats, but are quite distinct from those in the section formerly known under the names of Milla and Triteleia. The cultural treatment is precisely the same as detailed under Brevoortia above. An idea as to the beauty of the blossoms of some of the kinds may be gained from a glance at Plates 13, 19, 20, and 24, in which B. laxa (fig. 76), B. ixioides (fig. 77) (also known as Calliprora lutea), B. Bridgesi (fig. 91), B. Howelli lilacina (fig. 80), and B. uniflora (figs. 51 and 52) (the last named being remarkable for having flowers singly instead of in umbels), are respectively depicted. Other species well worth growing are californica, rosy-purple; capitata, lilac or violet, and its white variety alba; congesta, deep violet; Douglasi, bright blue; gracilis, bright yellow; grandiflora, violet-blue; Hendersoni, salmon-yellow striped with purple; Howelli, porcelain-white striped with blue; hyacinthina, purple, and its white variety lactea; Leichtlini, white; multiflora, pale blue; Orcutti, lilac; peduncularis, porcelain-white to rosy-purple; Purdyi, rosy-purple to lilac; rosea, rose-red to pinkish-purple; Sellowiana, yellow; and stellaris, reddish-purple to deep blue. To these may be added B. volubilis, remarkable for having twining stems often 12 feet long, and having 15 to 30 rose-coloured flowers in an umbel.
BULBOCODIUM vernum.—A charming Crocus-like plant of the Lily family, closely related to the Meadow Saffrons (Colchicum), as may be seen by comparing the method of lateral growth of the brown-coated corms—each an inch or more in diameter. It is a native of the Alps. In mild seasons it often produces its violet or rosy-purple funnel-shaped flowers in January, not more than 6 inches from the ground, and remains in blossom in company with Snowdrops, Leucojums, &c. The leaves appear afterwards and elaborate food for the production of next year's corms before they wither. A rich well-drained loam with a little sand and leaf-soil suits it very well, and the corms may be planted in September or October about 4 inches deep, in bold masses in the rock garden or grass-land, and left alone for a few years, after which there will be numerous offsets to increase the stock. As slugs are very fond of the young growths, they must be carefully looked for morning and evening, and a little soot or lime carefully spread round the plants may help to check them (see p. 142).
CALOCHORTUS (Mariposa Lily).—A very distinct group of Liliaceous plants with brown-coated bulbs, narrow leaves, and very showy and distinct-looking blossoms—some of which are shown in Plate 22, fig. 84, and also in Plate 20 of the companion volume "Beautiful Garden Flowers." Joined to the Mariposa Lilies proper are the "Star Tulips," formerly known under the name of Cyclobothra—well-known representatives of which are shown in the same Plate, figs. 85 and 86. They are quite distinct in the appearance of the flowers, but botanically they are considered to be identical in the important characters. Both groups are well worth growing in the milder parts of the kingdom in warm sunny parts of the garden. This is essential as most of them are natives of California, Oregon, Arizona, and parts of Mexico, where they have plenty of sunshine and are not subject to the cold drenching rains that often characterise the British winter. In colder districts where they would be unable to survive the ordinary winter, the plants may be brought to perfection in a cold frame so long as they are free from frost and heavy rains. The soil in which they appear to flourish best seems to be sharp sand, leaf-soil and road grit, well mixed together with a little loam added. The bed—in which the bulbs are to be planted 3 to 4 inches deep, from September to November, but not later—should be raised above the general level, the better to throw the water off in winter. If the beds or borders are facing south and slightly sloping, so much the better. A light covering with reeds or bracken is advisable during severe weather, but should be removed on all warm days, and altogether from February and March, as the young growths will then begin to push through the soil. After the flowering period—i.e., July and August—is over, and the foliage has withered, the bulbs may be either lifted and carefully stored in sand or dry earth until the planting season comes round again; or, better still, lights may be placed over them to keep the bulbs dry and allow them to ripen thoroughly and naturally. If the latter treatment is adopted the bulbs need not be disturbed for three or four years, and will give better blossom on the whole in consequence. It must be remembered that although the bulbs dislike moisture when dormant, they must have a sufficient supply during active growth, otherwise they may soon become parched and withered. The easiest way to increase the plants is by means of offsets. When seeds ripen they may be sown very thinly in pots or pans in spring, and the seedlings may remain for a couple of seasons before being transplanted. Sometimes "bulbils" (see p. 32) are produced on the stems, and may be sown in light sandy soil as if they were seeds. From seeds and bulbils it takes from three to six years to produce a flowering bulb.
There are now several kinds of Mariposa Lily in cultivation. Of these the varieties of the venustus group are undoubtedly the handsomest. (See Plate 22, fig. 84.) They grow about 18 inches high, and have cup-shaped flowers 3 inches across, having three very large and three very small segments. The colour of the type is white, yellow at the base, deeply stained with crimson, and having a conspicuous blotch at the base. In the variety alba the flowers are wholly white; lilacinus, deep lilac; purpurascens, lilac-purple; citrinus, lemon-yellow; oculatus, with rosy buds passing into white, with a deep blackish-purple blotch in the centre of a yellow base; and Vesta, flowers very large, white flushed with rose, and marked with brown and yellow at the base.
Other kinds are albus, with drooping pearly-white flowers (Plate 22, fig. 85); apiculatus, lemon-yellow; Benthami, bright yellow; coeruleus, lilac or creamy-white, densely bearded with blue hairs; clavatus, golden-yellow; elegans, white tinged with purple, but rich pink in the variety amoenus; flavus, yellow, drooping; Goldyi, old gold with hairy centre; Howelli, creamy-white; Kennedyi, orange-red; lilacinus, pink, purple, or lilac, a fine species; luteus, yellow or orange, with purple hairs; Plummeræ, large soft lilac flowers, with golden-yellow hairs and blotched with purple; pulchellus, orange-yellow, sweet-scented, drooping (see Plate 22, fig. 86); Purdyi, white, spotted with purple, and covered with long white hairs; splendens pale lilac, with silky white hairs and deep purple blotches at base; and Weedi, yellow.
CAMASSIA.—Graceful-looking North American plants of the Lily family, with rather large ovoid bulbs, strap-shaped tapering leaves, and loose racemes of starry blossoms which usually appear from May to July, and are useful for decorations when cut. They flourish in ordinary good and well-drained garden soil in warm sheltered spots. The bulbs should be planted in September or October, and covered with about twice their own depth of soil. They may be left undisturbed for a few seasons, but in that case a mulching of well-decayed manure in autumn would be beneficial. New plants are most readily secured by offsets from the old bulbs. Seeds, however, are freely produced in most places and should be sown in cold frames as soon as ripe. (See p. 36).
PLATE 16.
There are only a few species, the best being C. esculenta, the Quamash or Camass Root of the North American Indians. The blue flowers, each about 2 inches across, are borne on scapes 1-1/2 to 3 feet high, and look very handsome above the narrow arching leaves. C. Cusicksi, with porcelain-blue flowers (see Plate 18, fig. 70), grows 3 to 4 feet high. C. Fraseri, with very pale-blue flowers, is about 1-1/2 feet high; while C. Leichtlini grows 3 to 4 feet high, and has large creamy-white blossoms, about 3 inches in diameter.
CHIONODOXA Luciliæ (Glory of the Snow).—This charming harbinger of spring is a native of Asia Minor, where it pushes its beautiful brilliant blue and white blossoms (see Plate 2, fig. 9) through the snow-clad mountains early in the year. It has ovoid bulbs about 1 to 2 inches deep, arching leaves, and each flower-stalk 6 to 10 inches high, carries from six to twenty blossoms in February, March, and April. There are several fine varieties, the best being gigantea (or grandiflora), with very large flowers; sardensis, shown on Plate 13, fig. 53, has gentian-blue flowers. The variety alba has pure-white flowers, and Tmolusi and Alleni are also good varieties. A hybrid between C. Luciliæ and Scilla bifolia is known as Chiono-scilla, but is not common. Other Chionodoxas are C. cretica, with white or pale-blue flowers very scantily produced; and C. nana, with white or lilac-tinted flowers.
Chionodoxas flourish in ordinary good garden soil, and are suitable for the rockery, flower-border, beneath deciduous trees in shrubberies, or in the grass. To be effective in any of these positions they should be planted in hundreds and thousands, and in grass-land may be mixed with the smaller-flowered kinds of Narcissus (e.g., minimus, cyclamineus, triandrus). In the latter case the bulbs may be left alone for years with advantage, as they never interfere with mowing operations.
Offsets are freely produced from the old bulbs, and are the easiest means of increasing the stock. Seeds may be sown when ripe, but they take a few years to produce flowering bulbs (see p. 34).
CHLOROGALUM pomeridianum (Soap Plant).—A distinct looking plant about 2 feet high, with blue-green leaves and spikes of whitish purple-veined flowers, that usually open in the afternoon during the summer months. It flourishes in ordinary soil, and may be increased by offsets from the old bulbs. The best time to plant is in autumn.
COLCHICUM (Meadow Saffron).—In the autumn, when the landscape looks more or less dreary, the Colchicums relieve the monotony with their bright appearance. The bulbs are peculiarly one-sided, and differ a good deal in size according to the species, so that they should be planted at various depths according to size. The best time for planting is July, or not later than August, and if massed in bold patches in the grass, flower-border, shrubbery, or rock-garden, the effect later on will be much more effective than if the bulbs were put in sparingly. A rich sandy loam will suit most kinds, but any good and well-drained garden soil will give satisfactory results. It may be remarked that most kinds produce their flowers without the leaves. The latter appear the following spring to elaborate food for the new bulbs, dying down during the summer. Colchicums are best propagated by offsets. Seeds may also be sown about midsummer when thoroughly ripe, and will produce flowering bulbs in five or six years (see p. 34). There are many kinds, the most popular being: C. autumnale, a British plant, popularly known as the "Autumn Crocus"—owing to the shape and bright purple colour of its cup-shaped blossoms, which appear from the end of August to November. There are many varieties of it such as album, white; with a double form; maximum, purple; purpureum, purple rose; and striatum, red striped with white. C. Bivonæ has flowers chequered with white and purple. C. Bornmülleri, a fine species with rosy-lilac flowers. C. byzantinum has pale rose blossoms. C. giganteum, flowers rosy, very large. C. libanoticum, white. C. montanum produces its lilac-purple or whitish flowers in February and March. C. Parkinsoni has white flowers distinctly veined and chequered with violet-purple. The flowers of C. speciosum, shown in Plate 33, fig. 118, appear in September and October, and vary from reddish or rose-purple to deep crimson-purple. C. variegatum (a very old species also called Parkinsoni) has its rosy flowers beautifully chequered with violet purple.
CRINUM.—Most of the Crinums require the protection of a greenhouse or hothouse in our climate. The kinds mentioned below, however, may be grown in the open air in the milder parts of the country. The large and broad strap-shaped leaves, 2 to 4 feet long, more or less gracefully recurving from the long-necked bulbs, are in themselves a noble sight, but their beauty is considerably enhanced when the large, funnel-shaped blossoms are borne in clusters on the top of a stout, fleshy stalk. Given a rich and well-drained, loamy soil, warm-sheltered spots, and sufficient moisture during active growth, and the hardy Crinums usually flourish. They may be increased by offsets taken from the base of the large old bulbs; or by means of the large fleshy bulb-like seeds that are produced in favourable seasons. The seed needs only to be placed on the top of moist soil in a pot, and under the shelter of a greenhouse or cold frame will soon germinate in its own peculiar way. The best-known hardy Crinums are C. Moorei, a native of South Africa. It has large long-necked bulbs, broad bright-green leaves 2 to 3 feet long, and clusters of soft-pink flowers, each 6 inches or more across, on a scape 2 to 3 feet high (see Plate 30, fig. 109). C. Powelli, with a reddish wash down the centre of the petals, and its pure white variety album (Plate 32, fig. 115) are also two very fine plants for the out-door garden. They are really forms, or hybrids perhaps, of the South African S. longifolium (or C. capense), which has large white flowers with a central reddish stain on the outside of the petals. It is quite as hardy as the other kinds and may be treated in the same way.
CROCOSMA aurea.—This beautiful Iridaceous plant is perhaps better known as Tritonia aurea. It is a native of South Africa, and has fibrous-coated corms, narrow sword-shaped leaves, and brilliant orange-red starry blossoms borne on branched stems about 2 feet high, in August or September. It likes a rich sandy loam and leaf-soil and soon makes fine clumps in the milder parts of the kingdom. In cold districts and the north generally, the corms may be lifted in October or November, when the leaves have withered, and may be stored in sand or soil until spring. Then they may be replanted, any offsets from the older corms being placed in separate beds and grown on until large enough for flowering. As a pot plant for greenhouse decoration, the Crocosma is most useful. After potting in spring, the pots may be plunged (i.e., sunk up to the rims) in ashes or fibre, and plenty of water should be given during the summer months when the growth is active. When the flower-spikes appear the plants may be taken into the greenhouse or conservatory.
PLATE 17.
CROCUS.—The popularity of the Crocus is undoubted, but popular favour generally confines itself to the white, blue, lilac, purple, yellow, and striped varieties of C. aureus, the Old Dutch yellow Crocus, and C. vernus. These all flower from February to April, and when planted in hundreds and thousands in the borders or grass-land they are then indeed a glorious sight, especially if naturalised with Snowdrops, Leucojums, and Bulbocodiums. The individual blossoms do not last long, but they are thrown up so profusely from the roundish corms beneath, that they give a continuous glow for several weeks in early spring. The above all flourish in light sandy loam and leaf-soil. To secure the best results the corms should be planted about 3 inches deep in September or October. When possible, as in grass-land for example, the plants should not be disturbed for a few seasons, so they may increase as Nature intended. In this way they will produce a more striking picture each succeeding year, especially if they have had the advantage of a top-dressing with well-decayed manure in autumn. When the corms have to be lifted each year to make way in the borders for summer-flowering plants, the best time to take them up is when the foliage has begun to wither. This process is often hastened by twisting the narrow leaves and tying them into little bundles.
Apart from the ordinary spring-flowering Crocuses, aureus and vernus (a selection of which can be obtained from any bulb catalogue), there are several natural species which also flower in spring, and may be planted and grown exactly in the same way. Amongst these the best known are alatavicus, white and yellow; Balansæ, orange-yellow; banaticus, bright purple and white; biflorus, white to pale lavender, known as the "Cloth of Silver Crocus," of which there are many beautiful forms; Biliotti, purple; carpetanus, lilac to white; chrysanthus, orange-yellow, with several varieties; dalmaticus, lilac and yellow; etruscus, purple and yellow, striped; Fleischeri, white and yellow, veined purple; Imperati, lilac-purple, with deeper stripes; Korolkowi, yellow; reticulatus or variegatus, white to deep lilac, veined purple; stellaris, orange; suaveolens, lilac and yellow, veined purple; Susianus or revolutus, deep orange, known as the "Cloth of Gold Crocus"; versicolor, purple to white, veined purple; and vitellinus, orange.
Autumn-Flowering Crocuses.—Colchicums, and especially C. autumnale, are popularly known as "Autumn Crocuses." They belong, however, to the Lily family, and must not be confused with those species of Crocus proper which belong to the Iris family, and also flower during the autumn months, sometimes even as late as December, when the blossoms are often spoiled by the weather, unless protected with handlights or frames. At this period they are very useful, with the Colchicums and Sternbergias, for the decoration of grassy slopes and banks, and may be intermingled with them in places where they can remain undisturbed for some years.
The chief difference in the cultivation of Spring and Autumn Crocuses, is that the corms of the latter should be planted in July, or not later than August—in fact, at the same time as the Colchicums. The following are among the best Autumn Crocuses:—Asturicus, violet, purple; Boryi, white and yellow; cancellatus, white to purple, and lilac; caspius, white tinted rose; Clusi, pale purple and white; hadriaticus, white and purple; iridiflorus or byzantinus, purple, lilac; Karduchorum, lilac, veined with purple; longiflorus, lilac, yellow, sweet-scented; medius, purple, veined, see Plate 33, fig. 117; ochroleucus, creamy-white, orange, see Plate 33, fig. 121; pulchellus, lavender-blue and yellow, veined; Salzmanni, lilac to white, veined; sativus, lilac, veined purple; the well-known "Saffron Crocus" of commerce, with several varieties; Scharojani, orange-yellow; speciosus, lilac, purple, with deeper veins, see Plate 33, fig. 122; and zonatus, rosy-lilac, veined purple.
All Crocuses may be easily increased by offsets, which may be detached when the corms are lifted. Seeds take about three years to produce flowering corms (see p. 34).
DIERAMA (Sparaxis) pulcherrima.—This is a charming South African plant with fibrous-coated corms, and long narrow sword-like leaves. It has beautiful funnel-shaped flowers, which droop from thread-like stalks about September and October, a period when they are sometimes injured by the bad weather. The blossoms, which are shown on Plate 31, fig. 112, are usually crimson in colour, but there also exist white, pale-red, and prettily-striped forms, all borne on stalks 3 to 6 feet high, and beautiful for cutting purposes. D. pendula, with deeply veined lilac flowers, is another species not so well known.
The plants cannot be considered hardy, except in the milder parts of the kingdom. In less favoured spots they may be planted in spring in warm sunny spots sheltered from cold winds, and if left in the ground in winter should be protected from cold rains and frosts with litter, bracken, lights, &c. A light sandy loam, with a little leaf-soil, will suit the plants best, and they may be increased by offsets.
ERYTHRONIUM (Dog's Tooth Violet).—These pretty plants of the Lily order have more or less oblong or cylindrical bulbs, sometimes with creeping rhizomes, and leaves more or less marbled or blotched or sometimes green. The 6-petalled blossoms are, more or less, drooping, but are usually conspicuous above the foliage and render the plants very attractive either in the rock-garden, flower-border, or grass-land. The plants like a moist sandy loam and leaf-soil, which, however, must be well drained so that the bulbs may not decay with the winter rains. Offsets are the easiest means of increasing the stock, and are best taken off after the flowers are over and the leaves have withered, i.e., about midsummer.
PLATE 18.
The Common Dog's Tooth Violet (E. Dens-Canis) is an old-world plant, and has been in cultivation many years. It has blue-green leaves, marbled with dull purple, and the flowers are of a soft rose or purple hue, although there are various shades (as shown on Plate 13, fig. 54), including a white one. There are now many other species and varieties in cultivation—all natives of temperate North America, and well worthy of a place in the garden. They all blossom from March to May, and vary in height from 3 to 12 inches. The following are the best known at present:—Albidum, white, tinged yellow, or wholly yellow in the variety bracteatum; americanum, golden yellow, tinged purple; citrinum, lemon yellow; Dens-Canis (see Plate 13, figs. 54 and 55); giganteum, white, suffused with orange or yellow; grandiflorum, yellow; Hartwegi, creamy-white and orange; Hendersoni, rose to purple with yellow centre; Howelli, yellow and orange; Johnstoni, rosy-pink (see Plate 12, fig. 94); montanum, creamy-white; propullans, rose-purple; purpurascens, pale yellow tinged purple, or lilac in the variety grandiflorum; this species has sometimes about a dozen flowers on a scape; and revolutum, pink to rosy-purple, or white with a yellow centre in the variety Bolanderi or Smithi.
EUCOMIS punctata.—This bold-looking plant is probably the best and most ornamental member of the genus. It has very large bulbs and tufts of gracefully spreading and recurved wavy leaves, bright shining green above, and densely spotted with purple beneath. The creamy-white or yellowish starry blossoms, with a conspicuous violet ovary in the centre, appear from July to September, and are packed close together on a stout purple spotted scape 1-1/2 to 2 feet high. Other species are bicolor, with unspotted leaves and greenish-yellow flowers; nana, which grows only about 9 inches high, has brownish-green blossoms; undulata, greenish-yellow ones; regia, white; and pallidiflora, with leaves over 2 feet long, and 4 inches or more broad, has greenish-white flowers.
They are all natives of South Africa, and may be grown in warm sheltered spots in the milder parts of the country. They like a rich and well-drained sandy loam, and if left undisturbed for a few years, will probably require protection in bleak localities from winter rains and frost. They may be increased by offsets. It takes four or five years to secure flowering bulbs from seeds.
FERRARIA undulata.—A distinct looking Iridaceous plant with tunicated bulbs, sword-like wavy leaves, and peculiar dull-purple flowers, each with six wavy segments spotted with purple, and appearing in March and April. This plant flourishes in well-drained sandy loam and leaf-soil, and may be considered fairly hardy in the milder parts of the kingdom. Increased by offsets.
FRITILLARIA.—There are fifty species or more belonging to this genus, but many of them, although highly interesting, are so dull in colour or small in blossom, that they are only likely to be met with in botanical collections. The common Crown Imperial (F. imperialis), shown in Plate 16, figs. 65 and 66, with its sturdy stems, 2 to 3 feet high, bright green wavy leaves, and bright yellow drooping blossoms, is probably the best known; but there are many forms of it in which the flowers vary in colour from yellow to orange and bright red. The Snake's Head (F. Meleagris) is another well-known species to be seen growing naturally in moist meadows in parts of England. Its beautiful white, rosy or purple blossoms (see Plate 8, fig. 33) droop from the stalks, 1 to 1-1/2 feet high in April and May, and are beautifully chequered with deeper coloured bands. For naturalising in the grass with Narcissi, Dog's Tooth Violets, &c., this is a very valuable plant. F. Moggridgei, a dwarf form of the purple, brown, and yellow delphinensis, is another good garden plant shown on Plate 8, fig. 31. The following kinds may be used for naturalising in the grass or for grouping in nooks of the rock-garden:—Fusco-lutea, aurea, citrina, lusitanica, lutea, askabadensis (finely figured in "Flora and Sylva,") discolor, pallidiflora, pudica, Thunbergi, Whittalli, all with yellow or greenish-yellow blossoms, and ranging from 6 to 12 inches high. To these may be added F. recurva (Plate 8, fig. 34), a Californian species, about 1 foot high, and remarkable for its drooping bright orange-scarlet blossoms, the interior of which is yellow blotched with purple. F. camtschatcensis, the "Black Lily," has deep blackish-red flowers. It flourishes in moist sandy loam and peat.
F. Walujewi, with narrow tendril-tipped leaves, has silver-grey flowers suffused with purple brown, and spotted with red and white within (see Plate 8, fig. 32). To these may be added armena, dark purple; Elwesi, green and purple; pyrenaica, green and purple, spotted; persica or libanotica, chocolate, purple and green; latifolia, purple, lilac, yellow, &c.
The Fritillarias have bulbs of various sizes, and many of them—notably those of F. imperialis—emit a very strong and disagreeable odour. They produce offsets freely in most cases, and in this way the stock may be increased. The best time for lifting and transplanting the bulbs is after the foliage has withered.
PLATE 19.
GAGEA lutea.—This British plant, with small roundish bulbs, and long narrow leaves, is called the "Yellow Star of Bethlehem" on account of its yellow starry flowers, with a green central line, appearing from March to May on stalks about 6 inches high. It grows in ordinary garden soil and may be increased by offsets.
GALANTHUS (Snowdrop).—The common British Snowdrop (G. nivalis) is an old time garden favourite, not only on account of the purity of its blossoms—almost rivalling the whiteness of the snow—but because they appear during the very dullest months of the year, often before Christmas, and lasting till the Crocuses, early Narcissi, Chionodoxas, Bulbocodiums, Leucojums, &c., come to keep them company. A few blooms are shown on Plate 2, fig. 8, not because it was necessary to tell the reader what a Snowdrop was like, but to record the general appearance of other Snowdrops that are now to be met with in cultivation. The most important of these are Elwesi, with its varieties globosus and robustus, all of which have large flowers; Fosteri has been called the "King of Snowdrops" on account of its fine leaves and flowers. Other fine kinds are Imperati, latifolius, and plicatus, the last named recognised by its long broad and plaited leaves. Indeed there are many other varieties—including double-flowered ones—but it is doubtful if the ordinary observer would see any great difference between them and the best forms of the common Snowdrop. They all have roundish bulbs--; some larger than others, and offsets are freely produced from them. They flourish in the border or rock-garden in rich sandy soil and leaf-mould, but their natural dwelling place is in the grass, where they should be planted in hundreds and thousands and left to take care of themselves, as they are in many gardens in the kingdom.
GALTONIA (Hyacinthus) candicans.—A noble-looking South African plant, with large roundish bulbs and strap-shaped leaves over 2 feet long. The pure white sweet-scented blossoms (shown on Plate 20, fig. 78) appear during the summer months, 20 or 30 in a raceme, drooping from stout stalks about 4 feet high. G. princeps is somewhat similar but not so attractive in appearance, as its white flowers are faintly tinged with green. Both kinds flourish in good garden soil and should be planted in bold clumps for effect in the flower border, and in warm sunny spots, where they may remain undisturbed for several years, until it is necessary to give them more space, or to detach the offsets for increasing the stock.
GLADIOLUS (Corn Flag; Sword Lily).—There are several species of Gladiolus rarely seen outside botanic gardens. The florists' varieties, like brenchleyensis, Colvillei, Childsi, gandavensis, Lemoinei, and nanceianus, are much more popular owing to the brilliancy and beauty of their blossoms. G. brenchleyensis (practically a form of gandavensis) is remarkable for its glowing scarlet flowers; G. Childsi (raised from gandavensis and Saundersi) attains a height of four or five feet, and has spikes of bloom often 2 feet or more long. The blossoms are 6 to 9 inches across, and possess many shades of purple, scarlet, crimson, salmon, white, pink, yellow, often beautifully mottled and blotched in the throat (Plate 28, fig. 105). G. Colvillei (raised from cardinalis and tristis) is an early-flowering plant about 2 feet high, with crimson purple and also pure white flowers—according to the variety. The form known as "The Bride" is the best white (Plate 21, fig. 81). Other early-flowering forms are shown in figs. 82 and 83. G. gandavensis (raised from cardinalis and psittacinus) forms a charming group as various in colour as the Childsi forms, the individual flowers being variously striped and blotched with distinct colours. G. Lemoinei (raised from purpureo-auratus and gandavensis) is the origin of a beautiful number of hybrids, distinguished by having a large golden-yellow blotch on the lower segments, bordered with scarlet, crimson, purple, maroon, &c. (Plate 28, fig. 104). The colours are as numerous and as delicate as in the Childsi and gandavensis sections. The nanceianus hybrids are remarkably fine plants, and are only comparable with those of the Childsi group, although the blossoms are not quite so large. The colours vary from purple, claret, violet, carmine, orange, red, scarlet, violet, &c., and are all spotted in various ways (see Plate 28, fig. 103).
The kinds of Gladioli just mentioned may be grown to perfection in a well-drained loamy soil, which has been deeply dug and well manured the autumn previous to planting. From the beginning to the end of March is an excellent time to plant the corms or tubers, each one being inserted in a hole made with a stout dibber, or in a drill about 4 or 5 inches deep, and about a foot apart. Having covered the corms and made the soil fairly firm, little more is needed beyond keeping weeds down, until the flower spikes begin to show in July and August. Short stakes may then be supplied so as to keep the trusses upright. To secure extra fine blossoms the plants, when well-established, should be watered two or three times a week with liquid cow-manure to which a little soot and guano has been added. During hot dry summers especially, copious waterings should be given.
PLATE 20.
When the flowers have faded, and the leaves begin to turn yellow, the corms may be taken up and carefully stored in a dry, airy, frost-proof place until the following March. New plants may be raised from the offsets, and also the spawn or cloves to be found at the base of the new corms. They should be detached and stored, and the following April may be sown like seeds in drills about two inches deep. The larger corms may also be carefully cut in two at planting time, the cut surfaces being dipped in powdered charcoal, soot, or freshly-slaked lime.
Where space will permit, the following natural species of Gladioli may also be grown:—G. blandus, 1 to 2 feet high, white, with red markings and a yellow tube; G. byzantinus, 2 feet, red, shaded with violet or purple; G. dracocephalus, 1 to 2-1/2 feet, soft yellow, striped and spotted with purple; G. floribundus, 1 foot, has flowers varying from white to flesh colour and deep red.
G. oppositiflorus has white flowers, washed with rose or purple (Plate 23, fig. 87); G. psittacinus, 3 feet, rich scarlet, lined and spotted with yellow; G. purpureo-auratus, 3 to 4 feet, sulphur yellow, blotched with purple; and G. Saundersi, 2 to 3 feet, crimson or soft scarlet, spotted with pink and white. As they are all natives of South Africa they should be planted in warm sunny spots in March or April, and lifted the following autumn when growth has ceased.
HABRANTHUS pratensis.—A pretty Chilian plant, with ovoid bulbs about 1-1/2 inches through, and narrow leaves 1 to 1-1/2 feet long. The funnel-shaped, orange-red or scarlet blossoms appear in early summer on stems 1 to 2 feet high. Rich sandy-loam and leaf-soil, and warm sheltered spots are most suitable for this plant. In bleak localities the bulbs must be protected in winter. Increased by offsets.
HYACINTHUS (Hyacinth).—The florists' Hyacinth, evolved from H. orientalis, has been for generations a great garden favourite, and is still amongst the most popular of bulbous plants for the decoration of the out-door garden, or for growing in conservatories, or the dwelling-house in more or less ornamental receptacles. There is a good deal of difference in the size of Hyacinth bulbs, but the reader must not imagine that the largest bulbs will throw up the best truss of flowers. Indeed it is often the case that quite a small bulb comparatively, will give a finer display than one much larger. Size, therefore, is not the main point about Hyacinth bulbs. Weight or density is the most important feature, and bulbs that are in any way soft or flabby may be regarded as useless.
Hyacinths in the Open Air.—What are known as "Bedding Hyacinths," to be had in various colours—red, rose, pink, white, blue, violet and yellow—are generally grown out of doors. They should be planted in October, or not later than November, 5 to 6 inches deep, and 6 to 8 inches apart, care being taken when planting round, oval, oblong, or other shaped beds to keep the lines or curves equidistant so as to secure uniformity in the results. The varieties should not be mixed when formal beds are planted. In vacant spaces in the flower border, however, mixed Hyacinths look very well. Although these Hyacinths will grow well in ordinary good garden soil that has been deeply dug, and contains some well-decayed manure, it may be said that a light sandy loam that has had some old cow-manure incorporated with it some weeks previously is regarded as the best. When the soil is naturally heavy it must be well turned up, and have plenty of sand or grit mixed with it as well as old manure. In such a soil, a further precaution may be taken to have a handful of sand placed in the hole under each bulb to further improve the drainage.
Combinations with out-door Hyacinths are sometimes made by covering the surface of the beds with such plants as Forget-me-Nots, Polyanthuses or Primroses, Silenes, White Arabis, Yellow Alyssum, and sometimes Narcissi bulbs are planted alternately with the Hyacinths, the object in all cases being to produce a fine effect and contrast in colours in spring. When the plants are in bloom they require but little attention, except perhaps a slender stick here and there to some flower-truss that has been blown down by the wind, or topples over with its own weight. As soon as the blossoms have withered, the flower stems should be cut away, leaving the still green leaves to assimilate food until they begin to turn yellow. The yellowing leaves indicate that the bulbs may be taken up, dried, and cleaned, and stored away in cool airy places until the following September or October. As Hyacinths, however, deteriorate in our fickle climate, it is better to buy new bulbs each year for planting formal beds, while the old ones may be planted in ordinary flower border or shrubbery.
PLATE 21.
Hyacinths in Glasses, &c.—Ornamental bowls, glasses, vases, &c., of various designs afford an easy and interesting means for growing Hyacinths in the dwelling house. Many fail to have good results with Hyacinths grown in these receptacles because they allow the bulbs to touch the water, or they place them in too high a temperature to begin with. The bulbs should not actually touch the water, the base being little more than 1/8-inch away from the surface. They should then be stood in a dark place with a temperature of about 40° to 45° F., until roots have developed into the water. The plants may then be exposed to more light, after which all that is necessary is to change the water occasionally, about once a week, so that the roots may secure a fresh supply of oxygen. The finest bulbs give the best results naturally when grown in this way. What are known as "Miniature Hyacinths" are suitable for growing in bowls, vases, &c., in moist moss and charcoal, or in Jadoo fibre, or even in coco-nut fibre. Indeed, Hyacinths generally may be grown more easily, perhaps, in this way, instead of in water, the only point to bear in mind being to get the roots started in a cool place before the flower-stem and leaves begin to grow.
Hyacinths in Pots.—For greenhouse and conservatory decoration Hyacinths are most useful. One large bulb or three smaller ones may be placed in a 5-inch pot in light sandy soil, the top of the bulbs being well above the surface. The pots should be placed in the open air and covered with fine ashes or coco-nut fibre. Roots soon develop, after which the bulbs may be brought in as required, and can be had in blossom long before those in the open ground begin to appear. In warm greenhouses the graceful Roman and Italian Hyacinths may be flowered in the same way.
For a selection of Hyacinths of various colours the reader will find it best to consult a good bulb catalogue or a nurseryman. Plate 11 shows a few varieties, but the size of the page renders it impossible to show them in all their natural grandeur.
Besides the florist's Hyacinths there are one or two natural species that are worth growing in the rockery, flower border, or in the grass. These are the Spanish Hyacinth (H. amethystinus), with bright blue drooping blossoms, or white in the variety albus, in May and June (see Plate 7, fig. 30). The other is H. azureus, which very much resembles one of the Muscaris, and sends up its sky-blue drooping flowers as early as February (see Plate 2, fig. 10).
Hyacinths may be increased by offsets. These may be stored in dry sand until planting time in the autumn, when they should be placed in beds by themselves, and will reach the flowering stage, with care, in two or three seasons. Full-sized bulbs are induced to develop bulblets by cutting them cross-wise, about half-way through from the base, or scooping the bottom out into a hollow. The bulbs are placed to dry after cutting, and by and bye the bulblets appear. They may be detached and planted like the offsets.
IRIS (Flag).—As the various kinds of Irises, known as "rhizomatous," "bearded," "beardless," and "oncocyclus or cushion," have already been dealt with in "A Practical Guide to Garden Plants," and in the companion volume to this, "Beautiful Garden Flowers," it is only necessary here to refer to the "Bulbous" Irises, as coming appropriately within the scope of this work. The best-known examples of Bulbous, or Xiphion Irises, as they are sometimes called, are the Spanish Iris (I. Xiphium) and the English Iris (I. xiphioides). Varieties of the last-named are shown on Plate 14, while forms of the Spanish Iris will be found in "Beautiful Garden Flowers," Plate 20, and also in this work, Plate 15. Besides these well-known examples of Bulbous Irises, there are many others now well-known. They are, however, much smaller in stature as a rule, more fragile, so utterly distinct in appearance from the ordinary Flag Irises, and so curiously and beautifully coloured, that many amateurs liken them to orchids, although, perhaps, they can scarcely be termed "Poor Men's" Orchids like their commoner relatives. On Plate 3, five species of charming and early flowering Bulbous Irises are shown, and a glance will show that no description could do real justice to the charming beauty of the blossoms.
The following comprise some of the best kinds of Bulbous Irises:—I. alata, and its numerous varieties, bright lilac-purple to white, October to December; I. Bakeriana (fig. 12), sky blue and white, blotched with violet, January to March; I. Boissieri, reddish purple, June; I. caucasica, pale yellow, February and March; I. Danfordiæ, or (Bornmüllieri) golden yellow, February (fig. 14); I. juncea, golden-yellow, fragrant, June and July; I. Kolpakowskyana (fig. 13) has reddish-purple and golden-yellow, with purple veins in March; I. orchioides has very large bulbs and bright-yellow flowers in March and April; I. persica (fig. 15), and its varieties, with light purple, lavender, lilac, sea-green, and other shades of colour, and usually distinctly spotted and sweet-scented during February and March; I. pumila, lilac, purple, or deep violet, April. I. reticulata has deep violet fragrant flowers in February and March; there are very many distinct varieties of it, such as cyanea, bright blue; Histrio, blue, blotched with golden-yellow, December to March (fig. 11); Histrioides, bright blue tinted with violet; humilis, rich red, purple, orange, and white; Krelagei, claret purple and yellow; purpurea, reddish purple; sophenensis, varying from reddish and bluish purple to lilac and lavender; I. Rosenbachiana, variable in colour, purple, yellow, and white to rich crimson and purple blue, March and April; I. sindjarensis has sweet-scented slaty-blue flowers; and I. stenophylla or Heldreichi, mauve purple, February and March.
PLATE 22.
The Spanish and English Irises flourish in ordinary good and well-drained garden soil containing a fair amount of sand or grit, and humus. The English varieties on the whole require a somewhat moister situation and rather heavier soil than the Spanish. They flower profusely, and their many shades of colour make the long-stalked blossoms great favourites for decorative purposes. The different colours can be had separately from the nurseryman or florist, but a mixed collection will afford great pleasure to those who do not wish to be burdened with the fancy names given in catalogues.
The smaller kinds of Bulbous Irises—like those shown on Plate 3—require to be treated a little more carefully than the Spanish and English varieties. Indeed many of the choicer and rarer varieties are safer grown in pots of rich sandy soil in cold frames. They flower early in the year, and, if exposed in the open border or rock-garden, the blossoms would be probably not only considerably disfigured, but the cold rains and frosts might kill the bulbs. When grown in the open air, warm sheltered spots should be selected for them, and the soil should be a well-drained sandy loam with a little leaf-soil. If the plants are flourishing, they may be left in the same spot for three or four seasons. After this it is better to lift them when the leaves have withered, and then any offsets may be detached to increase the stock. As a rule the best time to plant bulbous Irises is in September or October, but not later.
IXIA (African Corn Lily).--If the reader will turn to Plate 1, he or she will at once admit that the Ixias are a charming class of bulbous plants. The picture was prepared from specimens kindly supplied by Messrs. Wallace & Co., of Colchester. There are many other shades and combinations of colour besides those represented, and happy would be the amateur who succeeded in raising such lovely flowers in his garden—either in the open air or under glass.
The Ixias are natives of South Africa, and have smooth or fibrous-coated, round and flattish corms, about an inch in diameter. The sword-shaped leaves are strongly veined, and the beautiful blossoms are borne on stems 1 to 2 feet, during June and July. Some of the best varieties are shown on Plate 1, and attention is especially directed to the charming soft sea-green flowers of I. viridiflora, having a dark blotch in the centre. To these may be added the deep-red or crimson-flowered speciosa or crateroides.
It is a pity that such elegant flowers cannot be grown in the open air in every part of the British Islands. Unfortunately they are not hardy enough for this, and consequently the best results out of doors are only likely to be secured in the mildest parts of the kingdom. The best time to plant is from September to November. The corms should be about 3 inches beneath the surface of the soil. This should be a light, sandy loam; if inclined to be heavy, it should be raised in small beds above the general level to secure better drainage, and a little sand may be placed round each corm, also with the same object in view. In the event of cold rains and frosts in winter, the bulbs should be protected with litter, bracken, &c., to be removed at the end of February or March when the leaves begin to appear.
Where it is impossible to grow Ixias successfully in the open air, they may be grown in pots in cold frames or for the decoration of the greenhouse or conservatory. The corms should be potted in September or October, and kept under ashes or fibre in the open until roots have developed, after which they may be brought inside to develop. Ixias are best increased by offsets.
IXIOLIRION montanum.—This beautiful plant (also known as I. Pallasi and I. tataricum) has long-necked ovoid bulbs about an inch in diameter, and tufts of grassy leaves. The charming lilac blossoms, as shown on Plate 18, fig. 73, are borne in early summer in loose clusters on stems a foot or more high, and are very useful in a cut state. There is a good deal of variation in the colour, which has led to different names being given from time to time.
I. Kolpakowskyanum is a rare and little known species from Turkestan. It has much smaller bulbs than montanum, and the blue or whitish blossoms appear somewhat earlier in the year.
Ixiolirions may be grown successfully in the milder parts of the kingdom in warm sheltered spots in the flower-border or rock-garden. They should be planted about 3 inches deep in September or October in light sandy soil, and in cold localities should be protected with litter, &c., in winter.
LAPEYROUSIA (Anomatheca) cruenta.—A pretty South African plant, 6 to 12 inches high, with irregular roundish corms about 2 inches in diameter, and narrow sword-shaped leaves. The deep crimson or blood-red blossoms, with a still deeper-coloured blotch on each of the three inner segments, appear in late summer in loose clusters on slender stalks, and are very striking when seen in large masses. This species, although perhaps a trifle hardier, may be grown in the same way as the Ixias (see p. 90). The corms, however, being larger, should be planted about 6 inches deep, and new plants may be secured by detaching the offsets when the leaves have withered.
PLATE 23.
LEUCOJUM (Snowflake).—Beautiful plants closely related to the Snowdrops, and somewhat resembling them in bulbs, and leaves, and flowers. The Spring Snowflake (L. vernum) is the first of the group to produce its drooping sweet-scented blossoms in March and April. They are usually borne singly on a slender stalk 6 to 12 inches high, and are white in colour with more or less conspicuous green tips to the petals, as shown in Plate 12, fig. 47. The next best-known kind is the Summer Snowflake—the paradoxical name of L. æstivum. The pure white flowers, tipped with green, appear in May and June, sometimes as many as six being borne on a stem. L. pulchellum is closely related to this species, but has narrower leaves, and produces its smaller blossoms somewhat later. The pretty little plants, formerly known as Acis, are now included with the Leucojums. They all have small white drooping blossoms on slender stems 6 to 12 inches high, those of hyemalis and trichophylla, appearing in April, while those of autumnalis appear in autumn.
The Snowflakes flourish in rich sandy soil, and appear to advantage in the rock-garden or in the grass, where they may be massed in the same way as Snowdrops, &c. Most of them are easily increased by offsets.
LILIUM (Lily).—Of all the hardy bulbous plants that may be grown in the open air in our climate, the Lilies may be looked upon as the most noble. Not only are many of them giants in stature among other hardy bulbs, but there is nothing to equal their individual blossoms in size, or their general gracefulness of appearance when borne collectively on the leafy stems.
They differ in another respect from other bulbous plants described in this book, and that is in having "scaly" bulbs as shown on page 12. All the other plants have either bulbs with several coats rolled round each other (tunicated), or else they are solid, when they are known as corms. But in the Lilies neither of these two types appears. What are known as the "scales" are fleshy leaves that have been specially modified under the surface of the soil to act as reservoirs or storehouses for the surplus food that the green aërial leaves on the stems have elaborated for them during the daytime.
There are a large number of species of Lilium, differing greatly in size and blossom, and it is therefore only natural to expect the bulbs to vary a good deal also. Indeed, there are very large and very small bulbs, comparatively speaking, and they display a good deal of difference in their vegetation, and in producing offsets. For example, most kinds develop new bulbs or offsets round the base of the older bulb, while others, like canadense, Grayi, pardalinum, Parryi, and superbum, develop their new bulbs along creeping stems or rhizomes as shown in the sketch on page 31.
Useful as the offsets are for the purpose of increasing the stock, some kinds, notably bulbiferum, Browni, speciosum, and tigrinum, often develop what are called "bulbils" in the axils of the aërial leaves. These bulbils are small bulb-like bodies, which, when sown and covered with soil as if they were large seeds, will develop into flowering bulbs in the course of two or three years. The origin of these bulbils is more fully dealt with at p. 32.
Besides these two fairly easy means of increasing the stock of Lilies, many kinds may be also raised from seeds, which at the end of three, six, or eight years, will have produced bulbs large enough to throw up flowering stems. Raising Lilies from seed is more common now than it used to be, especially in America, where some lovely hybrids have been raised, such as Burbanki, Dalhansoni, Marhan, &c.
Distribution of Lilies.—As Liliums are distributed throughout all parts of the north temperate hemisphere—extending from California in the west, to China and Japan in the east, across the continents of North America, Europe, and Asia—they are therefore found naturally growing in different soils, and under various climatic conditions, in all degrees of sunshine and shadow, drought and moisture. In the British flower garden they are, as a rule, best in positions where they will be shaded from the hot mid-day sun, as the flowers will last much longer than if exposed too much. They should not, however, be planted in deep shade under trees, or among their roots, as the latter would absorb too much food and moisture from the Lilies, while the overhanging boughs would prevent the rain from reaching the bulbs in sufficient quantity. During vigorous growth, Lilies like plenty of water, but the soil must at the same time be so well drained that it shall readily pass away from the bulbs. ("A Practical Guide to Garden Plants.")
Time and Depth of Planting.—If bulbs can be secured early in autumn, say in September or October, that would be the best time to plant Lilies. But very often bulbs of certain kinds cannot be secured till spring, so that planting must necessarily take place then. The depth at which Lily bulbs are to be planted depends greatly upon the size of the individual bulbs; some kinds are planted about 6 inches deep, while others require a depth of 9 or 10 inches. A safe general rule to follow, is to cover the bulbs with about twice their own depth of soil when planting in the open air. If a piece of peat be placed beneath each bulb at the time of planting, and a layer of sand about half-an-inch thick round them, they will root much more freely. An exception to the general rule seems to be L. giganteum (see p. 100). When Liliums are hardy enough to be left undisturbed for several seasons in the same place, a good top-dressing or "mulching" of well-decayed manure in autumn will be of great advantage in replenishing the food for the roots.
So far as culture is concerned, Liliums may be arranged in three distinct groups as follows:—
I. Lilies that flourish in ordinary good garden soil, or better still, in strong loam that has been deeply dug and enriched with well-decayed manure in advance.
Alexandræ, 2 to 3 feet high, with pure white flowers, 6 to 8 inches across in July and August.
Batemanniæ, 3 to 5 feet high, flowers rich apricot, 4 to 5 inches across.
Bulbiferum, 2 to 4 feet high, with erect crimson flowers spotted with brown; May and June.
Candidum, the well-known "Madonna Lily," 3 to 5 feet high, with sweet-scented pure-white flowers, 3 to 4 inches across, and ten to thirty on an erect truss in June. When subject to disease in any locality, it is almost useless attempting to grow this Lily. (See Plate 16, fig. 64).
Chalcedonicum, a fine "Turk's Cap" Lily, 2 to 3 feet high, with drooping bright scarlet flowers in July and August; there are several varieties, including maculatum, a spotted one.
Croceum, the "Orange or Saffron Lily," with somewhat cobwebby stems 3 to 6 feet high, and golden orange, funnel-shaped flowers, spotted with purple at the base; June and July. (See Plate 17, fig. 67).
Dalhansoni, a pretty hybrid between dalmaticum and Hansoni, about 5 feet high, with dark brownish-purple flowers in June and July.
Dauricum or davuricum grows 2 to 3 feet high, and has orange-scarlet flowers spotted with blackish-purple.
Henryi, 3 to 6 feet high (sometimes much taller) with jagged-surfaced orange-red flowers from July to September.
Marhan, a lovely hybrid between the white-flowered Martagon and Hansoni. It grows 4 to 5 feet high, and has clear orange-yellow flowers with red-brown streaks and spots.
Pomponium, a fine "Turk's Cap" species, 2 to 3 feet high, with drooping, bright-red, orange-yellow, flowers.
PLATE 24.
Pyrenaicum is closely related to pomponium, but is somewhat taller, and has bright-yellow flowers, blotched with crimson at the base (see Plate 18, fig. 71).
Rubellum, a beautiful species about 2 feet high, with bell-shaped rosy-pink flowers in June (see Plate 26, fig. 97).
Testaceum (or excelsum), a fine Lily, 5 to 6 feet high, with somewhat drooping, soft, buff-yellow or apricot-coloured flowers, dotted with orange-red.
Umbellatum. A number of Lilies are grouped under this name, being apparently hybrid varieties between croceum, davuricum, and elegans. The prevailing colours are orange, orange-red, and apricot, with darkly-spotted and unspotted forms.
Washingtonianum grows 3 to 6 feet high, and has sweet-scented, drooping, funnel-shaped flowers of a pure white tinged with lilac or purple. The soil should be particularly well-drained for this Californian Lily.
II. Lilies that flourish in sandy loam, peat, and leaf-soil.
Auratum, a well-known Lily, 2 to 6 feet high, with ivory-white flowers, often 9 to 12 inches across, with a conspicuous yellow band down the centre, and deep purple blotches all over the inner surface. There are several varieties, some poor, some excellent, amongst the latter being platyphyllum with very large heavily-spotted flowers. There is a white unspotted form of this called virginale, closely related to which is Wittei, the flowers of which, however, are stained with yellow down the centre.
Browni, 2 to 4 feet high, with bell-shaped flowers, pure white with a central purple line.
Concolor, grows 1 to 3 feet high, and has bright scarlet flowers. There are several varieties, such as Buschianum and the dwarf pulchellum, scarlet, spotted with black; Coridion, bright yellow, spotted with red; Partheneion, orange-yellow, faintly spotted; and luteum, yellow, spotted with purple-red.
Elegans (or Thunbergianum), 1 to 2 feet high, with erect cup-shaped scarlet flowers, slightly spotted with purple at the base.
Giganteum, a gigantic Himalayan Lily, with stems from 6 to 10, and sometimes 14 feet high, furnished with large heart-shaped oval leaves. The flower stem is 1 to 2 feet long and has drooping funnel-shaped blossoms of a greenish-white, suffused with violet-purple in the throat. Unlike other Liliums, the large conical bulbs of this species are not buried deeply in the soil. They are sunk in the soil about one-third of their depth, and are usually planted in April or May. In the event of spring frosts, the bulbs should be protected with dry leaves or litter.
Hansoni, 3 to 4 feet high, flowers drooping, bright orange yellow, and heavily spotted with dark purple-brown (see Plate 25, fig. 93).
Humboldti (or Bloomerianum), 4 to 8 feet high, flowers orange-yellow, drooping, spotted with purple at the base; more conspicuous in the variety ocellatum, the yellow blossoms of which are tipped with crimson or purple.
Japonicum, 1 to 3 feet high, with sweet-scented pure white flowers faintly tinged with purple outside.
Kewense, a beautiful hybrid between Henryi and a variety of Browni; it grows about 6 feet high, and has buff-coloured flowers about 8 inches across, fading off to creamy white at the tips.
Krameri is like japonicum, but taller, and with pink flowers.
Leichtlini, 3 to 4 feet high, with drooping citron-yellow flowers heavily spotted with purple.
Longiflorum, a very handsome Lily, 2 to 3 feet high, with large tubular pure white flowers. There are many so-called varieties of this species, including Harrisi, eximium, and Takesima—all very popular for forcing in pots for greenhouses (see Plate 25, fig. 94).
Martagon, the "Turk's Cap," Lily, 2 to 3 feet high, with many tiers of drooping purple-red or violet-rose flowers, spotted with carmine, but white in the tall growing variety album (see Plate 26, fig. 95).
Monadelphum (or Loddigesianum) is a vigorous Lily, 3 to 5 feet high, with soft bright yellow flowers, which in the variety Szovitsianum (or colchicum) are spotted with blackish-purple (see Plate 26, fig. 98).
Pardalinum, known as the "Leopard Lily," grows 3 to 8 feet high, and has drooping orange-red flowers spotted with dark purple at the base. There are several varieties, some being more highly coloured and spotted than others.
Roezli, 2 to 3 feet high, with dark blotched orange-red flowers.
Speciosum, also well-known as lancifolium, grows 2 to 3 feet high, and has white flowers suffused with rose, the lower portion of the segments being deeper in colour, and covered with papillæ. There are many varieties such as album, white; Krätzeri, white tinged with green down the centre; Melpomene, deep crimson-purple, &c.
Tenuifolium, so called from its grass-like leaves, grows 1 to 2 feet high, and has small drooping scarlet blossoms (see Plate 25, fig. 92).
Tigrinum, the "Tiger Lily," with woolly stems 2 to 4 feet high, and deep orange-red flowers heavily spotted with blackish-purple. (See Plate 24, fig. 90.)
III. Lilies that flourish in very moist but well-drained sandy loam, peat, and leaf-soil. They are excellent for planting in shady borders, under north walls, or by the side of ponds, &c.
Burbanki, a fine hybrid between pardalinum and Parryi. Flowers, pale orange-yellow, spotted with chocolate and flushed with crimson at the tips. A single stem often has as many as twenty or thirty blooms upon it.
Canadense, a rhizomatous "Turk's Cap" Lily, 2 to 4 feet high, with drooping funnel-shaped flowers varying in colour from bright orange-red to pale red, the upper portion of the segments being heavily spotted with purple-brown. (See Plate 23, figs. 88 and 89.) There are several forms such as rubrum, flavum, parvum, &c.
Catesbæi, an elegant species, 1 to 2 feet high, having erect bell-shaped flowers of a bright orange-red heavily spotted with purple.
Cordifolium, a very distinct-looking Lily, 3 to 4 feet high, having broadly heart-shaped ovate leaves, and tubular white flowers with violet-brown spots at the base.
Grayi is closely related to canadense, but has deep crimson flowers heavily blotched with purple at the yellowish base.
Maritimum is a pretty Lily, 3 to 5 feet high, with small deep red bell-shaped flowers spotted with dark purple.
Parryi is another rhizomatous Lily, 2 to 6 feet high. The more or less drooping flowers are citron-yellow, spotted with purple-brown, and are sweetly fragrant.
Superbum is known as the "Swamp Lily" of North America. It has creeping rhizomes which produce bulbs at intervals, and the violet-purple stems grow 4 to 10 feet high. The drooping orange-red flowers, sometimes as many as twenty to forty on a stem, are heavily spotted with violet-purple. The variety carolinianum (also known as autumnale and Michauxianum) has flowers like those of the type, but the plants only grow about 2 feet high.
PLATE 25.
Most of the Lilies described in these three sections may be grown in beds by themselves on the grass, or they may be planted in clumps in borders or shrubberies where they will have plenty of space and enough sunshine to enable them to develop fully. The peat-loving kinds—those in the second and third sections—are excellent for planting amongst such plants as Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Kalmias, and other peat-loving shrubs.
LYCORIS squamigera.—This distinct Japanese plant is closely related to the Belladonna Lily (see p. 51). It has rather long-necked roundish bulbs, 2 to 3 inches in diameter, and strap-shaped leaves about a foot long. From July to September, after the leaves have withered, the large sweet-scented rosy-lilac flowers (see Plate 32, fig. 116) are borne on a stout stalk 2 to 3 feet high. This plant may be grown out of doors in the milder parts of the kingdom in warm sheltered spots, such as against a well on a south border. It likes rich well-drained sandy loam and leaf-soil, but grows freely in ordinary good garden soil. There are other species that may probably succeed in the open air in the same way, such as aurea, golden-yellow; straminea, pale yellow with a pink central line and red dots; and radiata, bright red.
MERENDERA Bulbocodium.—A pretty Pyrenean plant closely related to Bulbocodium vernum. It grows only 3 or 4 inches high, and produces its rosy-lilac funnel-shaped flowers in autumn at the same time as some of the true Colchicums. The narrow sickle-shaped leaves appear after the flowers are over and remain fresh and green till spring. There are a few other species, but they are practically unknown in gardens. The Merendera may be grown exactly in the same way as the Colchicums, in the border, rock-garden, or best of all in the grass. The stock may be increased by offsets and seeds.
MILLA biflora.—There is now only one Milla, the plants formerly known under that name being now included in the genus Brodiæa (see p. 56). M. biflora has rather small bulbs with fleshy roots and narrow, grass-like, blue-green leaves. The pretty pure white salver-shaped blossoms appear in August and September usually two to four on stems about 6 inches high. Being a native of Mexico, M. biflora should be grown in warm sheltered spots in the rock-garden or border, in a rich sandy loam, the bulbs being planted about 4 inches deep. Increased by offsets.
MUSCARI (Grape Hyacinth).—A charming class of plants with roundish bulbs about 1 inch in diameter, narrow leaves, and conical clusters of urn-shaped or tubular blossoms drooping from stems 3 to 6 inches high. Although the Grape Hyacinths may be easily grown in patches or edgings in the ordinary flower border, there is no place that shows off their sheets of brilliant blue blossoms so well as a grassy bank, or a nook in the rockery, where they should be planted in large numbers. They naturally like a rich and well drained soil with plenty of grit or sand in it, and some leaf-soil. The bulbs should be planted about 3 inches deep in September and October, and when naturalised in the grass may be left for several seasons without being disturbed. Most of the kinds blossom in March, April, and May, and are easily increased by offsets. Seeds may also be sown (see p. 36).
The following is a selection of the best kinds. The flowers are blue in all cases, except where otherwise mentioned, and the general appearance of the blossoms is as shown by M. conicum in Plate 12, fig. 48:—Armeniacum; botryoides, with a white-flowered variety album; comosum, the monstrous form of which, with twisted and wavy bluish-violet filaments, is known as the Ostrich Feather Hyacinth; conicum (see Plate 12, fig. 48), of which there is a beautiful brilliant blue variety called "Heavenly Blue." Heldreichi, like botryoides, but larger; Maweanum; neglectum; racemosum; amphibolus porcelain blue; and Szovitsianum.
There are other colours besides blue among the Grape Hyacinths. Thus the "Musk Hyacinth" (M. moschatum) has sweet-scented blossoms which change from purple at first to greenish-yellow tinged with violet. It has a yellow flowered variety called flavum or macrocarpum. Some forms of neglectum are salmon-pink, while the blossoms of M. paradoxum might be described almost as black.
NARCISSUS (Daffodil).—What so charming in the spring-time as "a host of Golden Daffodils"? The varieties are now almost legion, and they are still being added to by enthusiastic hybridists in various parts of the kingdom. The crossing of one section with another may possibly worry the botanist, but there is no fear that the gardener will not welcome any new variety that may be raised. Although thousands of the older Daffodils may be bought for a few shillings, the rarer varieties still command a respectably high price, and will naturally continue to do so until the stock has been considerably increased.
There is scarcely a nook in the garden, large or small, where Daffodils cannot be grown. And yet it is astonishing to note their general absence from suburban gardens, where they would not only grow freely, but also make a cheerful picture in the spring-time.
PLATE 26.
Daffodils—with the exception, perhaps, of a very few varieties—require as little attention, and even less than Snowdrops or Crocuses. Once planted they may be left undisturbed for years, and as each season comes round they gaily shoot their blue-green strap-shaped leaves and creamy or golden blossoms through the ground.
They grow in almost any soil, but prefer a rather stiff and well-drained loam. They are appropriate in any situation in the flower border or rockery. But their natural position is undoubtedly in the grass, or—
"Beside the lake, beneath the trees,
Fluttering and dancing in the breeze,"
As Wordsworth has it.
When to Plant.—The best time to plant Daffodil bulbs is from the end of August to November. As there is a great difference in the size of the bulbs, according to the variety, the depth of planting should vary accordingly. Thus bulbs 1 to 2 inches deep from top of neck to base should be planted quite 3 or 4 inches deep, while larger ones will be planted 4 to 6 inches deep in proportion, and about the same distance apart, except, of course, when they are used between other plants like Tulips, Wallflowers, Polyanthuses, &c., for a combination display in spring.
Most of the Daffodils are valuable for cutting and decorative purposes generally when in season, and when one has the convenience of a greenhouse—cold or otherwise—the flowering period can be extended from Christmas onwards.
Daffodils are most easily increased by the offsets from the old bulbs. These may be lifted in early summer, when the leaves have begun to turn yellow. Seeds may also be sown when ripe (see page 36), but to secure them the plants must be left much longer in the ground, so as to mature them.
Nearly all kinds of Daffodils—especially those having only one flower on a stem—may be grown in the open air. There are hundreds of varieties to choose from, but the uninitiated may start with such kinds as the beautiful white and flat-flowered "Poet's Narcissus" (N. poeticus), which is also called the "Pheasant's Eye" Narcissus, because of the crimson and orange circles round the rim of the flat saucer-like "corona" in the centre (see Plate 7, fig. 29). There are several varieties of the Poet's Narcissus, one of the best for ordinary purposes being ornatus. Where the soil is particularly rich and well-drained the double-flowered variety, called the "Gardenia" Narcissus, owing to the shape of its beautiful white blossoms (see Plate 7, fig. 28), may be grown. Unfortunately this variety often comes "blind," that is, the blossoms remain undeveloped in the papery sheath on top of the stem. To check this the bulbs are best lifted and transplanted early to fresh soil. Another popular and easily-grown Daffodil is the common Double Yellow one known as Telamonius plenus or Van Sion. It is a form of the Tenby Daffodil (N. obvallaris) which is a single form with beautiful yellow flowers, having a large "trumpet" or corona in the centre. Closely related to this is the Great Spanish Daffodil (N. major) which has large bright lemon-yellow flowers, which are still larger and of richer yellow in the variety maximus.
"Ajax" Daffodils.—To these may be added the numerous forms, of which the common Lent Lily (also called "Ajax" or "Trumpet Daffodil") is the type, and which has pale sulphur-yellow blossoms with a lemon-yellow "trumpet." Some of the finest Daffodils, with large spreading flowers and correspondingly large and deep trumpets, belong to this section, among which may be mentioned Ard Righ or Yellow King, C. W. Cowan, Colleen Bawn, Emperor, Glory of Leiden, Golden Spur, Henry Irving, Hudibras, John Nelson, Madame de Graaff (see Plate 4, fig. 17), Monarch, W. Goldring, &c. All these have single flowers varying in colour from almost pure white (as in C. W. Cowan, Colleen Bawn, and Madame de Graaff) to deep golden-yellow in many of the other varieties. There are a few double-flowered forms of the "Lent Lily," the best known being Capax, lemon-yellow; grandiplenus, deep yellow, plenissimus, and the Old Double Lent Lily grown in Gerarde's garden over 300 years ago.
"Bicolor" Daffodils.—Another very fine group of Trumpet Daffodils are those known as "bicolors," so called because the spreading segments are one colour (generally white or creamy), while the trumpet is another colour (usually some shade of soft or deep yellow). Amongst the most popular forms in this group may be mentioned Ellen Willmott (see Plate 4, fig. 16), Empress, Grandee, Horsfieldi (see Plate 4, fig. 18), Mrs. J. B. M. Camm, Mrs. Morland Crossfield, Mrs. Walter T. Ware, Princeps or Irish Giant, Victoria, and Weardale Perfection (see Plate 6, fig. 26).
The "Star Daffodils" (N. incomparabilis) have spreading starry petals, and a cup or chalice-like corona or trumpet in the centre. They are a very free growing group, the commoner kinds of which (such as Autocrat, Cynosure, Stella) may be naturalised in thousands in the grass, where they may be seen at "a glance tossing their heads in sprightly dance." Some other very fine forms are C. J. Backhouse, Frank Miles, Geo. Nicholson, Gloria Mundi (see Plate 5, fig. 21), Lulworth (see Plate 6, fig. 27), Mary Anderson, Sir Watkin (see Plate 5, fig. 23), and Princess Mary of Cambridge (see Plate 5, fig. 21), &c., but there are many others. There are also several double varieties of Star Daffodils, the most common being "Butter and Eggs," Orange Phoenix (or Eggs and Bacon) and Sulphur Phoenix (or Codlins and Cream).
There are many other kinds of Daffodils which have only one flower on a stem, many of them being natural or artificial hybrids. Space will not permit detailed descriptions, but the following may be looked upon as the best:—Backhousei, Barri (with several forms), Bernardi, Burbidgei, (with several forms), gracilis, Humei, intermedius, Johnstoni (with several forms), Leedsi (with several fine forms), Macleayi, moschatus (with several forms, the best being cernuus), muticus, and Nelsoni (with several forms).
In the foregoing sections the blossoms are all of a fairly large size, and borne on stalks a foot or more high. There is, however a charming group in which the blossoms are in most cases comparatively small and the flower stalks short. These kinds are valuable for planting in bold masses in partially shaded places in the rockery, or in short grass.
N. cyclamineus is a charming little Daffodil. It belongs to the Lent Lily group botanically. The blossoms, however, are much smaller; the segments being lemon-yellow, and abruptly turned back upon the stalk from the orange-yellow cylindrical "trumpet." (See Plate 5, fig. 19.)
N. minor is another miniature form of Lent Lily, with gracefully-twisted sulphur-yellow segments surrounding a deeper yellow spreading "trumpet." The variety minimus is smaller still, with rich yellow flowers, while plenus (or Rip Van Winkle) is a double variety.
One kind that differs conspicuously from all others is the "Hooped Petticoat" or "Medusa Trumpet" Daffodil (N. Bulbocodium), at one time considered a distinct genus (Corbularia). It is a charming species, having bright-yellow flowers, the chief characteristic of which is the cone-like or broadly funnel-shaped trumpet. There are several varieties, such as citrinus (lemon-yellow), conspicuus (golden-yellow), Graellsi (primrose-yellow), monophyllus (snow-white, leaves solitary), nivalis, (orange-yellow).
PLATE 27.
Polyanthus or Tazetta Narcissus.—Passing from the Daffodils with solitary flowers on a stalk, we come to a small group in which several blossoms adorn the top of the stem. The most important of these is perhaps the Polyanthus or Bunch Narcissus (N. Tazetta) which was well-known to the old Greek and Roman poets, although in a wild state it is met with eastwards across Europe and Asia, to China and Japan. The typical N. Tazetta has 4 to 8 flowers on top of the stem, the spreading segments being pure white and the cup-shaped corona lemon-yellow. There are many varieties, and although the individual blossoms are not very large, they are sometimes produced in much larger numbers than the type. The best-known varieties are the Scilly White, Grand Soleil d'or, Grand Monarque (Plate 6, figs. 24 and 25), and the Paper White—all largely grown in the open air in the Scilly Isles—but rather too tender for out-door cultivation in less favoured parts of the kingdom.
Of late years, a Chinese form (really only N. Tazetta) called the "Sacred Lily" or "Joss Flower," has attracted attention, and has been recommended for growing in ornamental bowls, &c., in drawing-rooms, in a compost (if it can be called such) of pebbles and clean water. The common mistake made in growing the Joss Lily in this way is that the plants do not get sufficient light in ordinary rooms, and consequently both leaves and stems are too weak to stand erect.
Other Daffodils with several flowers on a stalk are the Sweet-Scented Jonquil (N. Jonquilla), easily recognised by its roundish leaves and rich yellow flowers with a cup-shaped corona. There are several varieties including a double one known as "Queen Anne's Jonquil." The Rush-leaved Jonquil (N. juncifolius) with roundish rush-like leaves is closely related, its bright yellow blossoms being distinguished from those of the Jonquil by being fewer and having broader ovate segments.
N. triandrus, popularly called "Ganymede's Cup," is a charming little species with 1 to 6 pure-white flowers in which the segments are bent back from the cup-shaped corona. There are several varieties, including a lovely white one (albus) called "Angel's Tears," shown on Plate 5, fig. 20. Concolor, pale yellow; calathinus, white or sulphur-yellow; pallidulus, primrose-yellow; while pulchellus has primrose-yellow segments and a white corona.
The bulbs of N. triandrus and its varieties being rather small—half to three-quarters of an inch in diameter—the spots where they are planted should be marked, otherwise they are apt to get lost or destroyed. Until the stock is large they are probably safer grown in pots in cold frames.
As new varieties and hybrids are being added each year, the reader who wishes to grow novelties is advised to consult the bulb catalogues of such firms as Messrs. Barr & Sons, Covent Garden; Messrs. Ware, Feltham; Mr. Hartland, of Cork; Mr. Perry, Winchmore Hill, &c.
NOTHOSCORDUM fragrans.—A sturdy North American plant, 1 to 2 feet high, with roundish oblong bulbs, having thick fleshy roots. It is closely related to the Alliums, as may be seen by its umbels of white starry flowers, the segments of which are keeled with lilac on the outside.
This species grows in ordinary good garden soil of a gritty nature, and is easily increased by offsets.
ORNITHOGALUM (Star of Bethlehem).—Although a large genus, only a few species are considered worth growing, except in botanical collections. The best known representative of the group is probably the Common Star of Bethlehem (O. umbellatum), which is now naturalised in copses and meadows in some parts of England, and may be utilised in the same way in large gardens with an abundance of grass-land. The clusters of pure-white starry blossoms appear in May and June, on stalks about 1 foot high, and are keeled with green behind. Very similar in appearance are the flowers of O. arabicum, which, however, appear in June and July, and are much larger, sometimes 2 inches across, with golden anthers, and a shining black ovary in the centre, as shown in Plate 29, fig. 107. Unfortunately, this species is rather tender in the colder parts of the kingdom, and should be protected in winter. As an alternative the plants may be grown in pots in cold greenhouses, or in glasses of water in the same way as Hyacinths (see p. 84.) O. nutans, the drooping white flowers of which are also shown on Plate 29, fig. 108, is almost as hardy as O. umbellatum, and may be naturalised in the same way. O. arcuatum has pure white erect flowers in May and June on stalks 2 feet or more high. O. pyramidale, the white flowers of which have a green stripe behind, and are borne on stalks 1-1/2 to 2 feet high in June and July, is another species worth growing in masses in the shrubberies, or in the grass (see Plate 19, fig. 74); and O. pyrenaicum, with pale yellow-green flowers may be given similar treatment.
Ordinary well-drained garden soil of a more or less sandy nature will suit the Ornithogalums. They are easily increased by offsets.
PANCRATIUM.—Most of the plants in this genus require to be grown in heat and moisture under glass. Two species, however—both with clusters of white sweet-scented flowers on stout stalks 1 to 2 feet high—can be grown in the open air in the milder parts of the British Islands. They are P. illyricum and P. maritimum, both natives of Southern Europe. They have large pear-shaped bulbs with a tapering neck 9 to 12 inches long, and consequently require to be planted pretty deeply, say about a foot in September. A well-drained sandy loam and leaf-soil suits them best, and they may be increased by offsets.
POLIANTHES tuberosa (Tuberose).—Although what are known as African, American, Italian, and Pearl Tuberoses, are usually grown in warm greenhouses, nevertheless the plants may be grown with a fair degree of success in the open air in the milder parts of the kingdom. The thickish bulbs, about 2 inches through, may be planted out about the end of May, only just covering the tops with an inch or two of soil. The thin and narrow leaves will soon appear, and about August the pure waxy-white heavily-scented blossoms will be thrown up on stalks 2 to 3 feet high, that may require a thin stake to keep them erect. There are single and double-flowered varieties, the latter being most popular for cultivation under glass. For this purpose the bulbs may be treated as advised at p. 46.
PUSCHKINIA scilloides.—A charming little plant, with ovoid bulbs about an inch through, and narrow leaves about 6 inches long. About March and April the white or very pale blue blossoms appear, and are decorated with a conspicuous deep-blue line down the centre of each segment. Warm sheltered spots in the rock-garden or flower border, and a compost of rich sandy loam and leaf-soil suit this plant best. The bulbs should be planted, 3 or 4 inches deep, in September or October (but not later), and may, if convenient, remain in the same spot for three or four seasons without being lifted. This is best done when the foliage has withered, and will give an opportunity for detaching the offsets to increase the stock.
SCHIZOSTYLIS coccinea.—A charming South African plant, 2 to 3 feet high, with the appearance of a Gladiolus in the sword-like leaves. The brilliant crimson blossoms, each about 2 inches across, appear from September to November, and consequently often get spoiled by the weather unless protected. They are excellent for cutting and valuable so late in the season. The plants flourish in rich sandy loam, peat and leaf-soil, and are more satisfactory in the open air in the mildest parts of the kingdom. In other parts they should be planted on a sheltered south border where they can be protected in winter if necessary. Grown in pots, the plants are popular for greenhouse decoration. Increase is effected by dividing the thickish rootstocks in spring.
PLATE 28.
SCILLA (Squill; Bluebell).—The Squills and Bluebells are amongst the most charming of our spring-flowering bulbous plants, and it is astonishing that they are not more extensively utilised for naturalising in the grass, with Snowdrops, Crocuses, Narcissi, Chionodoxas, &c., with which they harmonise so well. Preferring partially shaded spots, they are particularly valuable for planting in woodland walks, and beneath our native trees in parks and pleasure grounds. The hardier kinds require practically no cultivation, and will flourish in any of the places indicated or in ordinary garden soil in the rock-garden or flower border. The best time to plant is about September and October, and as the bulbs are 1-1/2 to 2 inches in diameter, they should be buried about 3 or 4 inches deep, and in hundreds and thousands if possible instead of in twos and threes.
The best-known member of the genus is undoubtedly our Common British Bluebell or Wood Hyacinth (S. festalis). It is to be found in abundance in woods and copses, and from April to June sends up its tall stalks of drooping bell-shaped flowers, the colour of which varies from bluish-purple to white or pink, according to the several varieties, such as alba, rosea, and rubra, &c.
Another fine species is the Spanish Bluebell (S. hispanica or S. campanulata), perhaps the finest-looking Bluebell in the open air. The ordinary variety has porcelain-blue flowers on stalks a foot or more high. It is surpassed in beauty, however, by its white variety alba, which flowers freely and grows vigorously. There are also forms with pink or rosy flowers, such as rosea or carnea, rubra, &c., all of which appear in April and May.
The species, however, that finds so much favour for autumn planting is S. sibirica, a charming species, with purple-coated bulbs, and bright porcelain-blue blossoms with more or less spreading segments. They appear in February and March on stalks 3 to 6 inches high, but are more numerous in the variety called multiflora (see Plate 2, fig. 7). Owing to its early blooming, it is of course a great favourite with other early flowering plants.
Other kinds of Scilla that may be grown in the open air in the same way as those already mentioned are:—The Star Hyacinth (S. amoena), which requires rather warm sheltered spots. It has bright indigo blue flowers with spreading segments from March to May. S. bifolia grows 6 to 9 inches high, and produces its bright-blue, bell-shaped flowers in March. There are several forms of it, such as alba, white, rosea, pale rose, &c. S. hyacinthoides, bluish-lilac; S. italica, blue; S. verna, porcelain-blue; S. patula, deep blue with white edges; and S. monophylla, with blue or violet flowers, all appearing in April and May.
Quite distinct in appearance from all these is S. peruviana, which, by the way, is not a native of Peru, but of the Mediterranean region. It has large, pear-shaped bulbs, and rosettes of leaves 6 to 12 inches long, with bristly margins. The bright blue starry blossoms appear in May and June, and are borne in broadly conical clusters, which elongate during the flowering period. There are white (alba) and yellow (lutea) varieties, the first-named of which is shown on Plate 17, fig. 69.
This species may be grown in warm sheltered spots in the border or rock-garden, in dryish, well-drained soil. The bulbs should be planted 4 to 6 inches deep, and in cold localities should be protected from severe frosts in winter.
Scillas may be increased by offsets taken from the old bulbs when the foliage has withered.
SISYRINCHIUM grandiflorum.—This is the best garden plant out of about fifty species. Like Schizostylis coccinea, it can scarcely be called a "bulbous" plant, as it has only short thickened rootstocks. It grows about a foot high, having striated leaves, and deep purple blossoms (as shown in Plate 20, fig. 79), which, however, are white in the variety album. It is an excellent plant for the rock-garden, where it should be planted in bold clumps, in light sandy loam and peat. Increased by division of the rootstocks about September.
SPARAXIS.—The plant best known under this name has been already described as Dierama pulcherrima at p. 71. The Sparaxis proper are little known plants, the best known being (i) grandiflora, which grows 1 to 2 feet high, and has bell-shaped flowers of deep violet-purple in April and May. There are many colour variations of this species (including a white one), several of them having a deeper coloured blotch at the base of the petals. (ii) Tricolor, resembles grandiflora in appearance, but has rich orange-red blossoms with purple-brown blotches on the yellow base of the petals. There are also several forms of this species with white, rose, or purple flowers, all having a yellow centre with distinct blotches at the base of the petals.
These South African plants require the same treatment as Dierama pulcherrima or the Ixias (see p. 89). They like warm sheltered spots in the mildest parts of the kingdom, and when well-grown are very showy and useful for cutting.
PLATE 29.
SPREKELIA formosissima (Jacobæa Lily).—A fine Mexican plant, with roundish bulbs 2 to 3 inches in diameter, and narrow strap-shaped leaves 12 to 18 inches long. In the open air the irregular bright crimson blossoms, each about 6 inches across, appear about August, and never fail to attract attention.
Unfortunately, the Jacobæa Lily, of which there are a few colour variations, can scarcely be considered as perfectly hardy in the mildest parts of the British Islands. It often flowers, however, when the bulbs are planted out about the end of May or early in June, when danger from frost is practically over. The flowers often appear before the foliage, but the bulbs should not be lifted in autumn for storing until the leaves show signs of withering. New plants are secured from offsets.
STERNBERGIA.—Charming plants, with roundish bulbs about 2 inches in diameter, and strap-shaped leaves, which are in their prime sometimes with the blossoms, as in S. lutea, and sometimes long before the latter appear, as in S. macrantha. The bulbs should be planted in spring, 5 or 6 inches deep, in rich and well-drained sandy loam and leaf-soil. When in bold clumps the flowers present a charming sight, either in the grass, rock-garden, flower border, or margins of thin shrubberies. All kinds have beautiful crocus-like yellow flowers as shown in Plate 33. S. lutea (fig. 119), variously known as the "Winter Daffodil" and "Yellow Star Flower," is considered to be the "Lily of the Field" mentioned in the Scriptures. It blooms in September and October, the yellow flowers nestling amongst the leaves. There are several forms of it, differing chiefly in the size of the blossoms and width of the leaves. S. macrantha (fig. 120) is a still finer species, with flowers much larger than those of S. lutea, with which they appear in autumn. Other species are colchiciflora, the bulbs of which are only about an inch in diameter, and the pale-yellow sweet-scented flowers appear in autumn. S. Fischeriana also has bright golden-yellow blossoms, but differs from its relatives in producing them during the spring months—February onwards—instead of in the autumn.
TECOPHILÆA cyanocrocus.—This distinct and charming Chilian plant, popularly known as the "Chilian Crocus," has fibrous-coated corms and narrow wavy leaves. The beautiful Violet-scented, funnel-shaped flowers of a brilliant blue, with a white centre, appear in March and April, borne in loose trusses. (See Plate 12, fig. 50.) The variety Leichtlini differs in having deeper blue flowers than the type, and without the white centre.
In the milder parts of the kingdom the Chilian Crocus may be grown in the open air in warm sheltered spots, such as on a south border at the base of a wall or fence. Rich sandy loam and leaf-soil is a good compost into which the corms may be planted, 6 to 9 inches deep, about September. In winter it may be necessary to give protection with litter, bracken, &c., in the event of severe frosts or continuous cold rains. The plants are most readily increased by offsets.
TIGRIDIA Pavonia (Peacock Tiger Flower).—There are several species of Tiger Flowers, but the one here mentioned, and its several varieties, are the most useful for the out-door garden. They have bulbs 1-1/2 to 2 inches in diameter, and plaited Gladiolus-like leaves. The blossoms, however, one of which is shown on Plate 30, fig. 110, are of exceptional beauty and brilliance amongst bulbous plants, and although they do not last a long time individually, they nevertheless follow each other so rapidly that the plants are scarcely ever without flowers during the summer months. The coloured picture will convey a far better idea as to the colouring and blotching of the flowers than any printed description. There are other varieties of T. Pavonia besides the one shown on the Plate. Perhaps the best are grandiflora, very large and brilliant; conchiflora, yellow blotched with purple; Wheeleri, deep red; and alba, pure white spotted with purple.
The Tiger Flowers are natives of Mexico, and therefore cannot be grown successfully in the open air in all parts of the kingdom. In the mildest parts, however, the bulbs may be left in the ground during the winter months, care being taken to protect them with leaves, litter, &c., during severe weather, or from heavy cold rains. In less favoured spots, where they nevertheless blossom out of doors in summer, the bulbs may be taken up about the end of October when the foliage has withered, and they may then be stored in frost-proof places in sand until the following April or May. Whenever the bulbs are lifted the offsets should be detached to increase the stock. The warmest, most sheltered, and sunniest spot in the garden is obviously the best place for Tigridias. In addition to this the soil should be a well-drained sandy loam enriched with old cow-manure and leaf-soil. During active growth, and especially in the hot dry seasons, it is necessary to keep the plants well-supplied with water, otherwise the results are likely to be the reverse of satisfactory.
TRITONIA.—This genus contains a handsome group of plants with fibrous-coated corms, like those of a Gladiolus, but much smaller. The plants formerly known as Montbretia are now also included in this genus, but the corms in some cases (e.g., M. crocosmiæflora) have slender creeping rhizomes, from which new corms are developed by the end of the season. The leaves are more or less like those of a Gladiolus, but somewhat narrower, and often curved, while the showy blossoms are borne in slender graceful spikes, that are very useful for cutting.
Only a few species and their numerous varieties are cultivated in the open air, being either massed in bold clumps in the ordinary flower border or rockery, or as beds by themselves in the grass. Being natives of South Africa, warm, sheltered, and sunny situations, and a light loamy soil, enriched with leaf-soil or well-decayed manure, naturally suit them best. Although perfectly hardy in all except the bleakest parts of the kingdom, the kinds mentioned below are best taken up and replanted each year or two in the spring time. It is not, however, essential to lift the corms in the autumn and store them in sand except in very cold parts where protection would be troublesome perhaps. A glance at the drawings on p. 26 will show the reader that offsets are freely produced, and in this way the kinds are most easily propagated.
The kinds most suitable for open air culture are: T. crocata (formerly known under the names of Ixia and Gladiolus) grows about 2 feet or more high, having broadly sword-shaped and curved leaves, and spikes of yellow or orange-coloured blossoms in June and July. There is a good deal of variation in the colour, some varieties being much paler or darker than others, and spotted with red, yellow, or brown.
T. crocosmiæflora, better known as Montbretia, is a graceful and popular garden plant, really a hybrid between Crocosma aurea (see p. 67) and T. Pottsi. It grows 2 to 2-1/2 feet high, and resembles a small Gladiolus in foliage. The brilliant orange-red blossoms appear in great profusion from July onwards to October or November, and are always attractive when grown in bold masses. There are numerous varieties of it—one, Etoile de Feu—being shown on Plate 27, fig. 102; others being Germania, Globe d'or, &c.
T. Pottsi, also better known perhaps as a Montbretia, grows 3 to 4 feet high, having narrow tapering sword-like leaves, and bright yellow funnel-shaped flowers suffused with red. They are borne in gracefully nodding spikes from August onwards, and exhibit great variation in colour and markings according to the many varieties that are now in commerce. The plant known as Tritonia aurea is described in this work as Crocosma (see p. 67).
PLATE 30.
TULBAGHIA violacea.—A pretty little South African plant with narrow leaves and slender spikes of violet-purple flowers, as shown in Plate 32, fig. 113. This species seems to be hardy in the Thames Valley and milder parts, but must be grown in large quantities to produce anything like an effect. It grows well in ordinary well-drained garden soil.
TULIPA (Tulip).—Although the days of the ridiculous Tulip craze of the seventeenth century have happily passed away, the love of Tulips has increased by leaps and bounds, and thousands are now cultivated where formerly dozens or hundreds were tolerated. Whether grown in lines or circles in formal beds, in irregular clumps in the flower border or rock-garden, or naturalised on grassy banks, Tulips constitute one of the most pleasing and brilliant features in the garden during the spring and early summer months. Indeed, one can hardly imagine what the garden would be like at this period of the year without the beauteous forms and glorious tints of the Tulip. The well-known brown-coated bulbs, 1 to 2 inches in diameter, are now so cheap that they come within the reach of the most modest purse, and there is no reason why Tulips should not be found in every cottage garden in the kingdom.
The culture of the Tulip is quite as easy as that of the common Daffodil. There is one important difference, however, between the Tulip and the Daffodil. While the latter likes partial shade, the Tulip enjoys plenty of sunshine, and shelter from bleak winds. Any good garden soil that has been deeply dug, and enriched with well-decayed manure some time previous to planting will produce fine blossoms. In the open air the bulbs should be planted about 4 inches deep, and not more than 6, even in bleak localities, as a safeguard against frost. The best time for planting is from the beginning of September to the end of October, and care should be taken when planting formal beds to see that the lines are perfectly straight, and the bulbs buried at a similar depth throughout. To secure the latter result a blunt dibber may be used, marked at the required depth with a cross-piece nailed on, or a piece of hoop iron that can be slid up or down to any particular depth. In this way, and by planting each bed with the same variety, uniformity in height, colour, and period of flowering will be secured. In vacant spaces in the flower border and rock-garden, such formality would be out of place, and in such positions mixed Tulips produce a more natural effect.
Although effective in themselves, the beauty of Tulips is greatly enhanced by planting them in beds that are already carefully arranged with such plants as Wallflowers, Polyanthuses, Primroses, Pansies, or Violas, Dwarf Saxifrages, Double White Arabis, (A. albida flore pleno), Yellow Alyssum (A. saxatile), Forget-me-Nots, Aubrietias, and such like plants that blossom about the same period and make an effective screen to hide the ground between the blue-green leaves of the Tulips. In arranging combinations, it is as well to have the Tulips and carpet plants arranged so that the colour of the one shall be quite distinct and in lively contrast with that of the others.
Thus White Tulips may have Yellow Arabis, Primroses, Polyanthuses, &c., beneath them. On the other hand, red Tulips should not be mixed with red Wallflowers, although they look remarkably effective with yellow ones. And so on, more or less in accordance with the principles laid down at p. 38.
For the benefit of those who take up their Tulip bulbs each year (when the flowers have withered being usually the earliest period for this operation) it may be as well to mention, that the bulb that is lifted about midsummer, is not the same as that planted in autumn. Indeed it is quite a new bulb altogether, and, as a rule, contains all the elements necessary for the production of leaves and blossoms the following season. The Tulip bulb planted in autumn is used up in the formation of leaves and flowers, that are produced in early summer. Whence then comes the bulb that is taken out of the soil when the flowering period is over? It has been made out of the raw material that has been assimilated by the leaves under the influence of sunlight. Very often there is more than sufficient food for the formation of a large flowering bulb, in which case the surplus food is converted into offsets at the base of the large bulb. These offsets, if planted and grown on for two or three seasons in specially prepared beds of light soil, will develop into flowering bulbs. They should, therefore, never be thrown away as useless.
Seedling Tulips.—Besides offsets (some of which drop several inches below the parent bulb, and are called "droppers.") Tulips may also be raised from seeds if one has the requisite patience and convenience. When seeds are required, the old plants must of course be left in the soil until the seed capsules have thoroughly ripened. The seeds should be sown very sparsely in drills, in carefully-prepared beds of light soil, and may be left undisturbed for about five or seven years, until the first flowers appear. Of course weeds must be kept down regularly, and to facilitate this operation, the seed beds should not be more than 4 or 5 feet wide, and the drills quite a foot apart.
The first flowers of a seedling Tulip are called "Breeders" or "Mother Tulips" and are of one colour throughout, although the seeds may have been saved from beautifully pencilled or flaked blossoms. When a "breeder" Tulip develops markings of a different colour, it is said to "break" or "rectify." Such rectified flowers are then divided into two groups, (a) those with a pure white centre, base, or ground, and (b) those with a pure yellow centre.
The white centred flowers (a) are again divided into (i) Roses, the flowers of which are various shades of pink, rose, scarlet, crimson, cerise, &c., and (ii) Bybloemens, the flowers of which display various shades of lilac, lavender, violet, purple, brown, purple-black, &c.
The yellow-centred flowers (b) are called Bizarres, with various shades of orange, scarlet, crimson, purple-black, brown, &c. These various classes of "rectified" Tulips have the petals either "feathered" or "flamed." A "feathered" Tulip has the petals beautifully pencilled and feathered round the edges only; while a "flamed" Tulip differs in having bright streaks, bands, or flames of a distinct colour shooting up the centre of each petal from the base, and forking out towards the pencilled and feathered margins.
Only specialists in what are called the "florist's Tulip," however, take a keen delight in drawing these distinctions.
There are some hundreds of varieties of Tulips enumerated in nurserymen's catalogues, but it is unnecessary to grow many of them to make an effective display. The following—arranged according to the predominating colour—may be regarded as a good selection for planting in the open ground in autumn:—
Single Varieties for Planting Out.—Red, Scarlet, Crimson, and Pink.—Artus, Bacchus, Belle Alliance, Couleur de Cardinal, Crimson King, Duc Van Thol, Pottebakker, Proserpine, Rose Luisante, Rose Gris de Lin. Orange, Brownish, and Terra Cotta.—Cardinal's Hat, Duc Van Thol, Leonardo da Vinci, Prince of Austria, and Thomas Moore. Yellow.—Bouton d'Or (Plate 9, fig. 37), Canary Bird, Chrysolora, Gold Finch, Golden Crown, Mon Trésor, Pottebakker, and Yellow Prince. White or Blush.—Albion (or White Hawk), Jacht van Delft, White Swan, Grand Duchess, Joost von Vondel, La Reine, Immaculée, and Pottebakker. Purple and Violet.—Molière, Purple Crown, President Lincoln. Red, Pink, Rose, or Violet, with White.—Bride of Haarlem, Cottage Maid, Couleur ponceau, Standard Royal, Wapen van Leiden, Picotee (Plate 9, fig. 36). Red and Yellow combined.—Brutus, Duchesse de Parma, Keizerskroon.
Double flowered Tulips.—Scarlet and Crimson combined.—Imperator Rubrorum, Rex Rubrorum, Rubra maxima. Pink and Rose.—Couronne des Roses, Murillo, Raphael, Rose d'Amour, Salvator Rosa. White.—Alba maxima, Grand Vainqueur, La Candeur, Rose blanche. Red and Yellow combined.—Duc Van Thol, Gloria Solis, Tournesol, Princess Alexandra. Orange or Yellow.—Tournesol, Yellow Rose, Miroir.
Parrot or Dragon Tulips.—These remarkable looking flowers are supposed to be descended from the curious green and yellow-striped T. viridiflora. The petals are cut and jagged into all kinds of peculiar shapes, while the colours are chiefly a mixture of reds, crimsons, greens, and yellows.
PLATE 31.
Darwin Tulips.—These are a very popular class of self-coloured Tulips derived from T. Gesneriana. They are infact "breeder" Tulips referred to on p. 134. The individual blossoms are large and cup-shaped, and are borne on stalks 1-1/2 to 2 feet high. There are numerous named varieties (for which a catalogue should be consulted), but a mixed collection will give a grand display, the colours being shades of apricot, yellow, carmine, rose, pink, crimson, maroon, and white.
With the Darwin Tulips may be associated what are known as the "Cottage" or "May Flowering" Tulips—vigorous kinds with tall stems and fine large flowers, that are admirably adapted for the decoration of the garden. For vases, bowls, &c., they are also excellent.
Natural Species or Wild Tulips.—Apart from the almost innumerable florists' varieties of Tulips, keen interest has been taken of late years in the cultivation of the natural species of Tulip which are found growing wild in various parts of South Europe, Asia Minor, Turkestan, &c. There are quite a large number of these natural species now to be had, but the cream of them may be said to be Gesneriana, Greigi, macropsila, and Oculus Solis, all with scarlet or crimson blossoms and black blotches at the base. Other useful kinds for bedding out or for naturalising with Daffodils, Bluebells, &c., are Eichleri, fulgens, Hageri, macrostyla, maculata, Didieri, Ostrowskyana, planifolia, lurida, undulatifolia, suaveolens, all with bright red or deep crimson blossoms except suaveolens which is bordered with yellow. Yellow flowered kinds are australis (Plate 10, fig. 40), Batalini, flava, Billietiana, galatica, neglecta, retroflexa, sylvestris, strangulata (speckled and streaked with red), viridiflora (with broad green band down the centre), Sprengeri (petals tipped with red), and Kolpakowskyana.
Apart from their value in the garden, Tulips are also popular as cut flowers. As most of them produce their blossoms on sturdy stems 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 feet high, they are easily picked, and when bunched in vases with foliage, or grasses, or even by themselves, they add a luxurious appearance to any apartment.
The great mistake many make in picking Tulip flowers is that they gather them often in the middle of the day when the petals are wide open, especially if there is strong sunshine. In the expanded state the blossoms do not last very long. They should therefore be picked either early in the morning or late in the evening, when the petals are closed in over the stamens and ovary in the centre. There is no need to actually cut the stems. By holding them close to the ground and giving a staccato pull upwards, they come away easily from the bulb, and possess the advantage of being a few inches longer than those cut with a knife or scissors.
WATSONIA.—Although popularly called "Bugle Lilies" the Watsonias really belong to the Iris family. They have fibrous-coated corms, stiffish, ribbed, sword-like leaves, and more or less funnel-shaped flowers. They are indigenous to South Africa, and may be grown in the open air under much the same conditions as Ixias, viz., warm, sheltered spots, and in light sandy soil. In the mildest parts of the kingdom the corms may be left in the ground during the winter, if necessary, but they should be protected in severe weather with litter, &c. In less favoured spots, it is safer to lift the corms in autumn when the leaves have withered, and store them in dry soil or sand until the spring.
The varieties depicted on Plate 27, figs. 99 to 101, show some of the most graceful kinds. W. Meriana, fig. 99 (also known as Antholyza) has several varieties including a scarlet one (coccinea), a white one (fig. 100), and a pink and white one (rosea-alba), which bear their blossoms during the summer months on stems 2 to 3 feet high. W. rosea resembles a Gladiolus in appearance, and indeed was once known as G. pyramidatus. It has several forms, including angusta, shown in the plate (fig. 101). Perhaps the most charming variety of all, however, is the beautiful Ardernei, the large pure white blossoms of which always attract attention owing to their purity and delicacy (Plate 26, fig. 96).
As a pot plant for conservatory decoration, W. Ardernei is very valuable, owing to its graceful appearance. In the open air it requires warm, sheltered, and sunny positions, and a rich sandy soil.
ZEPHYRANTHES (Zephyr Flower).—Beautiful plants with small brown-coated bulbs about an inch in diameter, from which spring narrow leaves and rather large funnel-shaped flowers, only one, however, on each stem. There are only a few species that may be grown in the open air in the mildest parts of the kingdom. The soil cannot be too well drained, and should consist of a rich sandy loam, while the position should be the warmest and most sheltered in the garden. The kinds most likely to succeed are Atamasco, a native of the damp woods and fields of Virginia. The flowers shown on Plate 29, fig. 106, are at first pure white, but become tinted with pink or purple. Z. candida, the "Swamp Lily" of La Plata, has pure white blossoms, as shown on Plate 32, fig. 114, as have also Treatiæ and tubispatha, while carinata and rosea both have rose-coloured flowers. The average height of these kinds is about a foot, and they may be increased from offsets or from seeds. At one time the Zephyr Flowers were grown in warm greenhouses, but experience has proved that they are much hardier than was at first supposed.
PLATE 32.