Itineraries

List of Itineraries

SHOWING THE DISTANCES BETWEEN CAMPING-PLACES, THE CHARACTER OF THE ROADS, AND THE FACILITIES FOR OBTAINING WOOD, WATER, AND GRASS ON THE PRINCIPAL ROUTES BETWEEN THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

No.		Page
I.	From Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Santa Fé and Albuquerque, New Mexico. By Captain R. B. Marcy, U.S.A.	257
II.	From Fort Leavenworth to Santa Fé, by the way of the upper ferry of the Kansas River and the Cimarron	260
III.	Camping-places upon a road discovered and marked out from Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Doña Aña and El Paso, New Mexico, in 1849. By Captain R. B. Marcy, U.S.A.	263
IV.	From Leavenworth City to Great Salt Lake City	266
V.	From Salt Lake City to Sacramento and Benicia, California	273
VI.	From Great Salt Lake City to Los Angeles and San Francisco, California	277
VII.	From Fort Bridger to the “City of Rocks.” From Captain Handcock’s Journal	279
VIII.	From Soda Springs to the City of Rocks, known as Hudspeth’s Cut-off	282
IX.	Sublet’s Cut-off, from the junction of the Salt Lake and Fort Hall Roads	282
X.	From Lawson’s Meadows, on the Humboldt River, to Fort Reading, via Rogue River Valley, Fort Lane, Oregon Territory, Yreka, and Fort Jones	283
XI.	From Soda Springs to Fort Wallah Wallah and Oregon City, Oregon, via Fort Hall	285
XII.	Route for pack trains from John Day’s River to Oregon City	288
XIII.	rom Indianola and Powder-horn to San Antonio, Texas	288
XIV.	Wagon-road from San Antonio, Texas, to El Paso, N.M., and Fort Yuma, California	289
XV.	From Fort Yuma to San Diego, California	292
XVI.	From El Paso, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, California, via Santa Cruz	294
XVII.	Peak and “Cherry Creek,” N.T., via the Arkansas River	295
XVIII.	From St. Paul’s, Min., to Fort Wallah Wallah, Oregon	302
XIX.	Lieutenant E. F. Beale’s route from Albuquerque to the Colorado River	307
XX.	Captain Whipple’s route from Albuquerque, New Mexico, to San Pedro, California	308
XXI.	From Fort Yuma to Benicia, California. From Lieutenant R. S. Williamson’s Report	315
XXII.	A new route from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd, opened by Captain J. H. Simpson, U.S.A., in 1858	317
XXIII.	From Fort Thorne, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, California	318
XXIV.	Lieutenant Bryan’s Route from the Laramie Crossing of the South Platte to Fort Bridger, via Bridger’s Pass	320
XXV.	Wagon-route from Denver City, at the Mouth of Cherry Creek, to Fort Bridger, Utah	323
XXVI.	From Nebraska City, on the Missouri, to Fort Kearney	326
XXVII.	From Camp Floyd, Utah, to Fort Union, New Mexico. By Colonel W. W. Loring, U.S.A.	327
XXVIII.	Wagon-route from Guaymas, Mexico, to Tubac, Arizona. From Captain Stone’s Journal	333

I.—From Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Santa Fé and Albuquerque, New Mexico. By Captain R. B. Marcy, U.S.A.

Miles	Fort Smith to
15.	Strickland’s Farm.—The road crosses the Poteau River at Fort Smith, where there is a ferry; it then follows the Poteau bottom for ten miles. This part of the road is very muddy after heavy rains. At 14 miles it passes the Choctaw Agency, where there are several stores. There is the greatest abundance of wood, water, and grass at all camps for the first 200 miles. Where any of these are wanting it will be specially mentioned. The road passes through the Choctaw settlements for about 150 miles, and corn and supplies can be purchased from these Indians at reasonable rates.
11.	Camp Creek.—Road crosses a prairie of three miles in length, then enters a heavy forest. The camp is on a small branch, with grass plenty in a small prairie about 400 yards to the left of the road.
12.	Coon Creek.—Road passes through the timber, and is muddy in a rainy season.
12.	Sans Bois Creek.—Prairie near; some Choctaw houses at the crossing.
14.	Bend of Sans Bois Creek.—Indian farm.
15.	South Fork of Canadian, or “Gain’s Creek.”—Road traverses a very rough and hilly region. There is a ford and a ferry upon the creek. Indian farm on the west bank.
12.	First ford of Coal Creek.—Road crosses over a rolling prairie, and at four miles the Fort Washita road turns to the left.
	Second ford of Coal Creek.—Indian farm.
4.	Little Cedar Mountain.—Very rough, mountainous road.
6.	Stony Point.—Very rough, mountainous road.
5.	Shawnee Village.—Several Indian houses.
14.	Shawnee Town.—Road passes several small prairies. Indian settlement; store on opposite bank of Canadian River, near the camp.
21.	Delaware Mountain.—Road passes over a very beautiful country, with small streams of good water frequent, and good camps. It crosses small prairies and groves of timber.
5.	Boggy River.—Road passes a country similar to that mentioned above.
3.	Clear Creek.—Road turns to the right near a prominent round mound. Beautiful country, diversified with prairies and timbered lands.
7.	Branch of Topofki Creek.—Beautiful country and fine roads.
9-1/2.	Cane Creek.—Excellent camp.
5.	Small Branch.—Road passes about two miles from the old “Camp Arbuckle,” built by Captain Marcy in 1853, since occupied by Black Beaver and several Delaware families.
11-1/2.	Mustang Creek.—Road runs on the dividing ridge between the waters of the Washita and Canadian, on a high prairie.
17-1/2.	Choteau’s Creek.—Road passes on the high prairie opposite Choteau’s old trading-house, and leaves the outer limits of the Indian settlements. Excellent road, and good camps at short distances.
11-3/4.	Choteau’s Creek.—Road runs up the creek; is smooth and good.
12-3/4.	Head of Choteau’s Creek.—Road runs up the creek, and is good.
17-1/4.	Branch of Washita River.—Road runs over an elevated prairie country, and passes a small branch at six miles from last camp.
5-3/4.	Branch of “Spring Creek.”—Good camp.
16.	Head of “Spring Creek.”—Road traverses a high prairie country, is smooth and firm.
13.	Red Mounds.—Road runs over a high rolling prairie country, and is excellent.
5.	Branch of Washita River.—Good road.
15-3/4.	Branch of Canadian.—Road continues on the ridge dividing the Washita and Canadian rivers; is smooth and firm.
17-3/4.	Branch of Washita River.—Road continues on the “divide.”
18.	Branch of Canadian.—Road continues on the divide from one to four miles from the Canadian.
19.	On Canadian River.—Good road.
16.	Little Washita River.—Good road; timber becoming scarce.
13.	Branch of Canadian.—Good road.
17-1/2.	Antelope Buttes.—Road runs along the Canadian bottom, and in places is sandy.
14.	Rush Lake.—Small pond on the prairie. No wood within half a mile; some buffalo chips; poor water.
16.	Branch of Washita River.—Good road on the divide.
10-1/4.	Dry River.—Road descends a very long hill, and crosses the dry river near the Canadian. Water can be found by digging about a foot in the sand of the creek. Good grass on the west bank.
17.	Branch of Canadian.—Road winds up a very long and abrupt hill, but is smooth and firm.
22-1/2.	Timbered Creek.—Road passes over a very elevated prairie country, and descends by a long hill into the beautiful valley of Timbered Creek.
11-1/2.	Spring Branch.—Good camp.
14.	Spring Branch.—Good camp.
17-3/4.	Branch of Canadian.—Road passes a small branch 3-1/2 miles from the last camp.
18-3/8.	Branch of Canadian.—Road passes a small branch of the Canadian at 8 miles from the last camp.
17-7/8.	Spring Branch.—Good road.
9-1/2.	Branch of Canadian.—Good road and camp.
18-1/2.	Branch of the Canadian.—Good road and camp.
10-1/4.	Pools of Water.—Good camp.
10.	Large Pond.—Good camp.
25.	Pools of Water.—No wood; water brackish. The road passes over a very elevated and dry country, without wood or water.
18-1/2.	Head of Branch.—At 13-1/2 miles the road crosses a branch of the Canadian.
19-3/4.	Laguna Colorado.—Road here falls into an old Mexican cart-road. Good springs on the left up the creek, with wood and grass abundant.
7.	Pools of Water.—Road runs through cedars.
10-3/8.	Pajarito Creek.—Grass begins to be rather short in places, but is abundant on the creek.
13-1/2.	Gallenas Creek.—Good camp.
15.	2d Gallenas Creek.—Good road.
16-1/2.	Pecos River at Anton Chico.—This is the first settlement after leaving Camp Arbuckle. Corn and vegetables can be purchased here. Grass is generally short here.
15.	Pecos River opposite Questa.—Road runs through the cedar, and is firm and good. Camp is in sight of the town of Questa, upon a very elevated bluff.
21-3/4.	Laguna Colorado.—Road passes through a wooded country for a portion of the distance, but leaves it before reaching camp, where there is no wood, but water generally sufficient for trains. In very dry seasons it has been known to fail. The road forks here, the right leading to Santa Fé via Galistio (45-1/2 miles), and the left to Albuquerque.
22-1/2.	San Antonio.—Good road.
18-3/4.	Albuquerque.—Good road.

Total distance from Fort Smith to Albuquerque, 814-3/4 miles.

Total distance from Fort Smith to Santa Fé, 819 miles.

II.—From Fort Leavenworth to Santa Fé, by the way of the upper ferry of the Kansas River and the Cimarron.

[In this table the distances, taken by an odometer, are given in miles and hundredths of a mile. The measured distances between the crossing of the Arkansas and Santa Fé are from Major Kendrick’s published table. Wood, water, and grass are found at all points where the absence of them is not stated.]

Miles.	From Fort Leavenworth to
2.88.	Salt Creek.
9.59.	Stranger’s Creek.
13.54.	Stranger’s Creek.
9.60.	Grasshopper Creek.
6.50.	Grasshopper Creek.
2.86.	Grasshopper Creek.
2.60.	Grasshopper Creek.
4.54.	Soldier’s Creek.
2.45.	Upper Ferry, Kansas River.
7.41.	Pottawatomie Settlement.
5.75.	Pottawatomie Creek.
3.89.	White Wakarussi Creek.
7.78.	White Wakarussi Creek.
6.27.	White Wakarussi Creek.
0.73.	Road from Independence.—No place to encamp.
5.72.	White Wakarussi Creek.
2.51.	White Wakarussi Creek.
2.82.	142-mile Creek.
7.80.	Bluff Creek.
5.77.	Rock Creek.
5.08.	Big John Spring.
2.29.	Council Grove.
7.97.	Elm Creek.—Water generally.
8.06.	Diamond Spring.
1.42.	Diamond Creek.
15.46.	Lost Spring.—No wood.
9.25.	Mud Creek.—Water uncertain; no wood.
7.76.	Cottonwood Creek.
6.16.	Water Holes.—Water generally; no wood.
12.44.	Big Turkey Creek.—No water.
7.83.	Little Turkey Creek.—Water uncertain; no wood.
18.19.	Little Arkansas River.
10.60.	Owl Creek.—Water generally in holes above and below crossing.
6.39.	Little Cow Creek.—Water only occasionally.
2.93.	Big Cow Creek.—Water holes, 10 miles (estimated). Water uncertain; no wood.
18.24.	Bend of the Arkansas.
6.66.	Walnut Creek.
16.35.	Pawnee Rock.—Teams sometimes camp near here, and drive stock to the Arkansas to water. No wood.
5.28.	Ash Creek.—Water above and below crossing, uncertain.
6.65.	Pawnee Fork.—Best grass some distance above crossing.
	From Pawnee Fork to the lower crossing of the Arkansas, a distance of 98-1/2 miles, convenient camping-places can be found along the Arkansas; the most prominent localities are therefore only mentioned. A supply of fuel should be laid in at Pawnee Fork to last till you pass Fort Mann, though it may be obtained, but inconveniently, from the opposite side of the Arkansas. Dry Route branches off at 3-1/2 miles (estimated). This route joins the main one again 10 miles this side of Fort Mann. It is said to be a good one, but deficient in water and without wood.
11.43.	Coon Creek.
46.58.	Jackson’s Island.
5.01.	Dry Route comes in.
10.05.	Fort Mann.
25.34.	Lower Crossing of the Arkansas.—The Bent’s Fort Route branches off at this point. For the distances upon this route, see next table. A supply of wood should be got from this vicinity to last till you reach Cedar Creek.
15.68.	Water-hole.—Water uncertain; no wood.
30.02.	Two Water-holes.—Water uncertain; no wood.
14.14.	Lower Cimarron Springs.—No wood.
20.00.	Pools of Water.—Water uncertain; no wood.
19.02.	Middle Springs of the Cimarron.—No wood.
12.93.	Little Crossing of the Cimarron.—No wood.
14.10.	Upper Cimarron Springs.—No wood. Pools of water, 7 miles (estimated). No wood.
19.05.	Cold Spring.—A tree here and there in the vicinity. Pools of water, 11 miles (estimated). Water uncertain; no wood.
16.13.	Cedar Creek.—M’Nees’ Creek, 10 miles (estimated). Water indifferent and uncertain; scant pasture; no wood. Arroyo del la Seña, 2-1/2 miles (estimated). No water.
21.99.	Cottonwood Creek.—No water. Arroyo del Burro, 5 miles (estimated).
15.17.	Rabbit-ear Creek.—10 miles (estimated), springs. Round Mound, 8 miles (estimated). No water; no wood; no camping-place. Rock Creek, 10 miles (estimated). Grazing scant; no wood.
26.40.	Whetstone Creek.—Spring; no wood. Arroyo Don Carlos, 10-1/2 miles (estimated). Water, etc., to the left of the road.
14.13.	Point of Rocks.—Water and grass up the cañon, just after crossing the point; scattering shrub cedars on the neighboring heights.
16.62.	Sandy Arroyo.—Water uncertain; no wood. Crossing of Canadian River, 4-3/4 miles (estimated). Grazing above the crossing; willows.
10.05.	Rio Ocaté.—Wood 1/3 of a mile to right of road; grass in the cañon. Pond of water, 13-1/2 miles (estimated). No wood.
19.65.	Wagon Mound.—Santa Clara Springs. Wood brought from the Rio Ocaté. Rio del Perro (Rock Creek), 17-1/2 miles (estimated).
21.62.	Cañon del Lobo.—Rio Moro, 3-1/2 miles (estimated). Rio Sapillo, 1 mile (estimated). The Bent’s Fort Route comes in here.
18.00.	Las Vegas.—Forage purchasable.
13.05.	Tacolote.—Forage purchasable. Ojo Vernal, 5 miles (estimated). No grass to speak of.
14.00.	San Miguel.—Forage purchasable; no grass.
21.81.	Ruins of Pecos.—Grazing very scant. Cottonwood Creek, 4-1/2 miles (estimated). Water uncertain; no grass.
13.41.	Stone Corral.—No grass.
10.80.	Santa Fé.—Forage purchasable; no grazing.

III.—Camping-places upon a road discovered and marked out from Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Doña Aña and El Paso, New Mexico, in 1849. By Captain R. B. Marcy, U.S.A.

Miles.	Fort Smith to
65.	South Fork of the Canadian.—The road from Fort Smith to the South Fork of the Canadian follows the same track as the road to Albuquerque and Santa Fé, and by reference to the tables of distances for that road the intermediate camps will be found.
15.	Prior’s Store.—Grass, wood, and water near.
17-1/2.	Little Boggy.—Good camp. Wherever there are not the requisites of wood, water, and grass for encamping, it will be specially noted; when they are not mentioned they will always be found.
13.	Little Boggy.—Good camp.
15-1/2.	Boggy Depôt.—Store and blacksmith’s shop.
12-3/5.	Blue River.—The road passes over a flat section, which is muddy after rains.
8-1/2.	Fort Washita.—Good camp half a mile before reaching the fort. The road forks at the Indian village on the Boggy, the left being the most direct. There are settlers along the road, who will give all necessary information to strangers. Corn plenty.
22.	Preston Texas, on Red River.—The road from Fort Washita runs through the Indian settlements, passing many places where good camps may be found, and crosses the Red River at Preston. There is a ferry here; also stores and a blacksmith’s shop.
20.	M’Carty’s.—Road runs through a heavy-timbered country, crossing several streams where there are good camps.
14-2/5.	Elm Fork of the Trinity, at Gainesville.—Road passes over a section diversified by prairies and groves of timber.
12.	Elm Fork of Trinity.—Good camp.
11.	Elm Fork of Trinity.—Excellent camps. Road passes over a beautiful country rapidly settling up with farmers, who cultivate and sell grain at low rates.
9.	Turkey Creek.—Tributary of Red River. Road emerges from the upper “Cross Timbers” two miles from camp.
26-3/4.	Buffalo Springs.—Springs of good water, but of limited amount, in a ravine.
12.	On a Ravine.—Pools of good water and a small running stream, not reliable.
13-1/2.	On a Ravine.—Pools of water.
17-1/4.	On a Ravine.—Pools of water.
17-1/4.	Running branch of Cottonwood Spring.—Branch about two feet wide, good water; wood about half a mile distant.
14.	Fort Belknap.—Good road through post-oak timber. County seat and town at Fort Belknap. Good camp on the west side of the Brazos, which is always fordable except in very high water.
14.	Small Branch.—Water in holes.
18.	Water-holes.—Pools of water. Road passes over prairie and timbered lands, is very smooth and level.
7-1/2.	Stem’s Farm, on Clear Fork of the Brazos River.—Good road; excellent camp, with abundance of wood, water, and grass. Indian reservation here.
13.	Elm Creek, or Qua-qua-ho-no.—Good road over rolling prairie and mesquite lands.
17.	Ravine.—Pools of standing water. Good road.
18.	Ravine.—Pools of standing water. Good road.
27.	Small Creek.—Tributary of the Brazos. Good road.
6.	Pools of Water.—Good camp.
8-1/2.	Small Branch.—Good water.
20-1/2.	Tributary of the Colorado.—Brackish water.
3-1/4.	Rio Colorado.—Brackish water. Road very excellent.
12-1/10.	Spring on the Road.—Good water.
22-9/10.	Big spring to the left of the road, affording a great amount of water, which runs off in a small stream.
23.	Laguna Colorado.—Water somewhat sulphurous; fuel mesquite roots; grass abundant.
35.	Mustang Pond.—This pond is north of the road about two miles, and was found in 1849, but emigrants and others have not been able to find it since. For this reason I would advise travelers to fill their water-kegs at the Laguna Colorado, as in a very dry season they might not be able to get any water until they reach the Sand Hills. The road is excellent over the “Llano Estacado,” or Staked Plain.
34-1/2.	Sand Hills.—Water in holes. The water is good here, and can always be relied on as permanent. The road through the Sand Hills is very heavy, and I would advise travelers with loaded wagons to make half loads.
31-1/2.	Laguna near the Pecos River.—Road passes through the hills, and descends the high prairie to the valley of the Pecos. Laguna on the left.
15-5/8.	Crossing of Pecos.—Water deep and not fordable; river 42 yards wide. A road leads up the eastern bank of the Pecos to a ford with rock bottom. Good camps can be had at almost any point on the Pecos. The water is brackish, but can be used without harm.
54-1/2.	Pecos River.—Point of the river where the road turns off toward Delaware Creek.
9-1/8.	Delaware Creek.—Good road after leaving the Pecos River. The road on the Pecos is good in the bottom in very dry weather, but after heavy rains it is submerged and very muddy. Travelers should then turn off to the bluffs. The water in Delaware Creek is brackish.
11-7/8.	Ojo de San Martin.—Fine spring of fresh water, also mineral spring. Good road up Delaware Creek.
15-3/10.	Independence Spring.—Large spring of excellent water. Look out for Indians.
5-1/10.	Ojo del Camins.—Good spring in the pine timber at the base of the mountain.
4-1/2.	Peak of the Guadalupe.—Spring at the foot of the mountain. Road descends the mountain, and is very steep.
23-7/8.	Ojo del Cuerbo.—Road descends through a very rough and sinuous ravine, and crosses a long prairie to camp at a pond of standing water. No wood.
26.	Cornudas (Wells).—Well in the rocks; plenty of water for small parties. Road good.
8-3/4.	Sierra del Alamo.—Road good; water limited in quantity. There is a small spring upon the side of the mountain. No wood except a few mesquite roots.
22-1/4.	Waco Tanks.—Good water in a large reservoir in the rocks. The road here branches, the left leading to El Paso and the right to Doña Aña.
28.	El Paso, on the Rio del Norte.—Road good, with some sand; no water upon it.
	The distance from the “Waco Tanks” to Doña Aña is 63 miles, but 40 miles of the road is over heavy sand, and no water until reaching the mountain, 25 miles from Doña Aña. I would recommend travelers to take the El Paso road in preference.

Total distance from Fort Smith to El Paso, 860 miles.

IV.—From Leavenworth City to Great Salt Lake City.

Miles.	Leavenworth City to
3.	Salt Creek.—Good camp; wood, water, and grass.
12.	Cold Spring.—To the right of the road, in a deep ravine, plenty of wood, water, and grass.
12.	Small Branch.—To the north of the road, in an arroya, good wood, water, and grass. Here enters the road from Atcheson, 6 miles distant.
16-2/3.	Grasshopper Creek.—Good wood, water, and grass.
9-1/2.	Walnut Creek.—Road passes a town called Whitehead, 4 miles from last camp. Water in pools, but 3/4 of a mile below is a fine spring; plenty of wood, water, and grass.
17.	Grasshopper Creek.—Good camp, with wood, water, and grass.
12-1/2.	Big Nemehaw, two miles above Richland.—Good wood, water, and grass near the creek.
11.	Water-holes.—On the ridge, at the head of a ravine, are wood, water, and grass, but in a dry time there would be but little water.
10-3/4.	Vermilion Creek.—Water in the creek not good, but there is a good well of cold water near the road. Wood and grass good.
21-1/2.	Big Blue River.—Upper crossing, good ford; plenty of wood, water, and grass. Fine clear stream, 60 yards wide.
17-1/2.	Branch of the Big Blue.—Camp half a mile north of the road; good wood, water, and grass.
15.	Turkey, or Rock Creek.—Good spring 400 yards to the north of the road. Store at the crossing. Good wood, water, and grass.
19.	Big Sandy.—Wood, water, and grass good.
19.	Little Blue River.—Road runs across the hills without water until reaching camp. Good wood, water, and grass.
18-3/4.	Little Blue River.—Camp is at the point where the road turns off from the creek. Good camps may be found any where on the Little Blue, with excellent wood, water, and grass. Fine running stream.
15.	Little Blue River.—Road strikes the creek again, and keeps it to the camp. Good wood, water, and grass.
19.	Elm Creek.—Road leaves the Little Blue, and runs along a divide to the head of Elm Creek, where we found water in holes, with some few trees; grass good.
20.	Platte River.—Road crosses one small branch, where there is water except in a dry season. Good camp on the Platte, with wood, water, and grass.
15.	Fort Kearney.—Good camp about two miles from the fort, upon the Platte, either above or below; grass, wood, and water abundant.
17.	Platte River—Road runs along the river, where there is plenty of grass, and occasionally a few cottonwood-trees. Here the buffalo generally begin to be seen, and the traveler can always get a plenty of buffalo-chips along in this section.
16-3/4.	On Plum Creek.—Road runs along the Platte to Plum Creek, where there is a little wood, with good grass and water. Mail station at the crossing of Plum Creek.
22-1/3.	On Platte River.—Road runs along the Platte bottom after crossing Plum Creek, and is good except in wet weather. The road occasionally comes near the Platte, and, although the timber becomes thin, yet places are found where fuel can be obtained. Grass is plenty at all points.
23.	On Platte River.—Road continues along the river valley over a flat country where the water stands in ponds, and is boggy in wet weather. Camps occasionally on the river, but little fuel. Grass and water good.
14.	On Platte River.—Road continues along the valley, with the same character as before, but more timber. Camp opposite Brady’s Island. Plenty of wood, water, and grass.
17-1/4.	Slough.—On the Prairie. Road runs from one to three miles from the river. No wood all day; plenty of grass, and buffalo-chips for cooking.
15-1/4.	Platte River.—Road crosses O’Fallon’s Bluffs, where there is a good camping-place on the right of the road. Plenty of wood, water, and grass on a small stream, which is part of the Platte. Mail station here.
16-1/2.	South Platte River.—Road runs along the Platte, with no timber. Good grass and water at any point, with buffalo-chips for fuel.
17.	South Platte River.—No timber all day. Good water and grass at all points, with buffalo-chips.
8.	South Platte Crossing.—No wood all day. Good water and grass, with buffalo-chips. The river is about 600 yards wide, rapid, with quicksand bottom, but can be forded when not above a medium stage. It is best to send a footman ahead to ascertain the depth of water before crossing the wagons and animals.
19.	Ash Hollow, at North Platte River.—Road leaves the South Fork of the Platte, and strikes over the high prairie for 16 miles, when it descends the high bluffs bordering the valley of the North Platte, and enters Ash Hollow, where there is a plenty of wood and a small spring of water. Half a mile beyond this the road reaches the river. Mail station and a small grocery here.
16-3/4.	North Platte.—Very sandy road; no wood; grass and water plenty at all points; buffalo-chips sufficient for cooking.
17.	North Platte.—Road sandy in places; no wood; good grass and water; some buffalo-chips.
16-1/2.	North Platte.—Road good; no wood; good grass and water; cattle-chips in places.
18-3/4.	North Platte.—No wood. Camp opposite “Chimney Rock,” which is a very peculiar formation on the south of the road, and resembles a chimney. Grass good. Road muddy after rains.

17-1/2.	North Platte.—No wood; grass and water good.
16.	“Horse Creek,” branch of the North Platte.—In seven miles the road passes through Scott’s Bluffs, where there is generally water in the first ravine about 200 yards below the road. The road then descends the mountain, at the foot of which is the Platte and a mail station. A little wood can be obtained at Scott’s Bluffs; there is none on Horse Creek.
14-1/4.	North Platte.—Road follows the river bottom all day. Wood, water, and grass on the river.
12.	Fort Laramie.—Road rough and rocky in places. There are wood and water plenty, and before many trains have passed the grass is good above the fort. Mail station and post-office here, with a sutler’s store well stocked with such articles as the traveler wants.
10.	North Platte.—Road good, but hilly in places. Camp is in the river bottom, with plenty of wood, water, and grass. Hot spring two miles above here.
14.	Bitter Creek.—There are two roads, both of which lead to Salt Lake. The upper or south road is best in the spring or in wet weather. I traveled the lower road. Wood, water, and grass are good.
17-3/4.	Horse-shoe Creek.—Fine camp, with excellent wood, water, and grass. The road here forks, one passing to the left over the hills, and the other running nearer the Platte.
20-1/2.	North Platte River.—Good road along near the river. Good wood, water, and grass. Road crosses the river at 12-1/2 miles.
20-1/4.	North Platte River.—Road crosses the river again, and the camp is two miles above the mouth of La Prell Creek. Good wood, water, and grass.
19.	North Platte River.—Road runs along the river, and is smooth and good. The camp is two miles above the crossing of Deer Creek, where there is a blacksmith’s shop and store. Good grass, wood, and water.
16.	North Platte River.—Good road, with wood, water, and grass at camp.
13.	North Platte River.—Good road passing the bridge, where there is a blacksmith’s shop and store, also a military station and a mail station. At two miles from camp the road crosses the river on a good ford with rocky bottom. The wood, water, and grass are abundant.
23.	Red Buttes, on the North Platte.—Road is very hilly, and in some places sandy; passes Willow Spring, where there is grass and a little wood. Good wood, water, and grass at camp. Mail station here.
11.	Sweet Water Creek.—Road leaves the river at the Red Buttes, and strikes over the high rolling prairie. Good grass and water, but little wood at camp.
15.	On Sweet Water Creek.—Road passes a blacksmith’s shop and store at the bridge six miles from camp, and at 2-1/2 miles from the camp it passes the “Devil’s Gate” and a mail station. The Sweet Water here runs between two perpendicular cliffs, presenting a most singular and striking appearance. Take wood at the Gate for camp. Good grass and water at all places on Sweet Water Creek.

20.	Sweet Water Creek.—Road muddy after rains, and some bad ravines to cross. Wood, water, and grass of the best quality at camp.
12.	Sweet Water Creek.—Road runs along the valley of the Sweet Water, where there is plenty of wood and grass in places, but little wood at the camp noted.
8.	On Sweet Water.—Road good; no wood; grass abundant.
20.	On Sweet Water.—Road good; no wood.
17.	Strawberry Creek.—Little wood; grass and water abundant. Road leaves “Sweet Water,” and ascends a very long hill which is very rocky.
20-1/4.	South Pass.—Road crosses the dividing ridge, and strikes the Pacific Spring, where there is excellent water and good grass if many cattle have not passed, in which event the traveler had better continue on down the creek which issues from the spring. Sage for fuel; no wood.
15-3/4.	Dry Sandy Creek.—Grass scarce; no wood; some sage and greasewood; water brackish, but drinkable; road good. Here the traveler should send ahead and have the best spots of grass found, as it is very scarce throughout this section. Sublett’s Cut-off turns off here for Soda Springs and Fort Hall. Take the left for Fort Bridger and Salt Lake City.
15.	Little Sandy Creek.—Grass in spots along the creek bottom, and some fuel.
18.	Big Sandy Creek.—Grass in detached spots on the creek, and little fuel.
21-1/2.	Green River, Upper Ford.—Grass and fuel on the river.
7.	Green River, at the Lower Ford.—Good grass and fuel below the ford. Ferry in time of high water. Mail station and grocery.
16.	Black’s Fork.—Good grass and fuel.
7.	Ham’s Fork.—United States bridge, no toll. Good grass and fuel.
12.	Black’s Fork.—Road forks at the crossing of Black’s Fork, both roads leading to Fort Bridger. This itinerary is upon the left-hand road, which crosses Black’s Fork two miles from Ham’s Fork.
13.	Smith’s Fork.—Good camps along Black’s Fork at any place, but the road leaves the stream for several miles. Wood, water, and grass at the confluence of Black’s and Smith’s Forks.
18-1/4.	Fort Bridger.—Good camps above and below the fort. Military post, mail station, and store.
	Muddy Creek.—Good grass, wood, and water. Grass short after many trains have passed. It is then necessary to go up the creek to find good grass. Road passes a fine spring 3 miles back.
19.	Bear River.—Good camps, with wood, water, and grass.
	Good ford, except in very high water. Sulphur Creek two miles back.
19.	Red Fork.—In “Echo Cañon,” two miles below Cashe Cave, good grass and fuel; water plenty.
19-1/4.	Weber River.—Good grass, wood, and water. Mail station. United States bridge for high water; no toll.
5-1/4.	Spring Branch.—Good camp. Road leaves the river, and takes the left into a valley.
9.	Bauchmin’s Creek.—Road crosses over a mountain, and descends to the creek, where there is a good camp.
14.	Big Cañon Creek.—Road crosses Bauchmin’s Creek 13 times in 8 miles, then ascends the mountain along a small creek, which is well wooded and good grass.
6.	Emigration Creek.—Road leaves Cañon Creek, and crosses the two mountains, which are very steep and long. Grass and wood before crossing the “Little Mountain.”
10-1/4.	Great Salt Lake City.—Forage can be purchased here, as well as most of the articles the traveler may require, at high prices. There is no camping-place within two miles of the city. It is best for those who encamp with animals to cross the Jordan River, or to stop near the mouth of the cañon before entering the city.

Total distance from Fort Leavenworth to Salt Lake City, 1168 miles.

V.—From Salt Lake City to Sacramento and Benicia, California.

Miles.	From Salt Lake City to
18.	Hait’s Ranch.—Good road, and grass abundant until Bear River is crossed.
17-1/4.	Ford on Weber River.—Good road, and grass abundant.
15.	Point of Mountain.—Spring water warm but pure.
12-3/4.	Box Elder Creek.—Excellent water; grass and fuel abundant in the cañons.
23.	Ferry on Bear River.—Four miles above the usual crossing. Excellent grass.
3/4.	West Bank.—Grass not good on the west bank.
6.	Small Spring.—Cross Bear River below the mouth of the Mallade.
17-1/2.	Blue Springs.—Water and grass scarce, and of poor quality.
21-1/4.	Deep Creek.—Heavy sage, but good grass on the right of the road, near sink.
20-1/2.	Cedar Springs.—Good grass on the hills, with fine water and wood; rolling country.
10.	Rock Creek.—Plenty of grass to the left of the road; good camping-place.
14-1/2.	Raft River.—Good camp.
22-1/2.	Goose Creek Mountains.—Grass, wood, and water abundant; rough and mountainous country. Road from Fort Bridger comes in here via Soda Springs.
17-3/4.	On Goose Creek.—Rough, broken country, with a good road, which runs along the creek for several miles.
28-1/2.	Head of 1000 Spring Valley.—Road runs over a rolling, barren section, with but little water except on the river far to the right.
25-3/4.	1000 Spring Valley.—Meadow grass; good fuel scarce. Camps can be found at short intervals along the road.
14.	Head of Humboldt River.—Fine camping-places, and road generally good, running over a rolling country.
23.	Slough of the Humboldt.—Extensive bottoms of good grass.
20.	Humboldt River.—Along the entire course of the Humboldt good grass is found in the bottoms. The road, which follows the bottom, is hard and smooth, but can not be traveled in seasons of very high water, as the bottom overflows. It is then necessary to take the road on the bluffs, where the grass is scarce. The river, when not above a fording stage, can be forded at almost any point, and good camps can be found at short intervals. There are spots along the river bottom where alkaline ponds are frequent. These are poisonous to cattle, and should be avoided by travelers. It is well along this river not to allow animals to drink any water except from the river where it is running.
20.	Humboldt River.—The foregoing remarks apply for every camp on the Humboldt River.
22.	Humboldt River.—Good camps along the Humboldt Valley.
23.	Humboldt River.
13-1/2.	Humboldt River.
16-1/2.	Humboldt River.
25.	Humboldt River.
13-3/4.	Humboldt River.
24.	Humboldt River.
24-1/2.	Humboldt River.
20-1/4.	Humboldt River.
18-3/4.	Humboldt River.
13-1/2.	Humboldt River.
18-1/4.	Lawson’s Meadows.—The road here forks, the left going by the Carson Valley and Sacramento route, and the right via Goose, Clear, and Rhett lakes, Applegate’s Pass of the Cascade Mountains, into Rogue River Valley, Fort Law, Oregon Territory, Yreka, Fort Jones, Fort Reading, and Sacramento River.
33-1/2.	On Humboldt River.—Grass and water poor all the distance to the Sink of the Humboldt.
19-1/2.	Sink of Humboldt River.—The water at the Sink is strongly impregnated with alkali; the road generally is good. Travelers should not allow their stock to drink too freely of this water.
26.	Head Sink of Humboldt.—Road good.
45.	Carson River.—Road crosses the desert, where there is no water for stock, but there is a well where travelers can purchase water for drinking. This part of the road should be traveled in the cool of the day and at night. Grass good, also the water.
2.	Carson River.—Good bunch-grass near the road.
30.	Carson River.—26 miles of desert; poor grass.
14.	Eagle Ranch.—Good grass and water.
13.	Reese’s Ranch.—Good grass and water.
12.	Williams’ Ranch.—Very good water and grass.
15.	Hope Valley.—Road rough and rocky.
3.	Near Sierra.—Good camp, with water and grass.
7.	First Summit.—Road rough and rocky; good water; grass scarce.
2.	Second Summit.—Road mountainous and very steep; snow nearly all the year.
10.	Lakes.—Good camp.
12.	Leek Springs.—Good grass near the road.
10.	Trader’s Creek.—Grass and fuel scarce.
12.	Sly Park.—Grass and fuel near the road.
	Forty Mile House.—Water plenty; grass scarce.
	Sacramento Valley.—Water plenty; purchase forage.
	Sacramento City.—Water plenty; purchase forage.

Total distance from Salt Lake City to Benicia, 973 miles.

At the Big Meadows, 23 miles from the Sink of the Humboldt, travelers should make a halt of a day or two to rest and recruit their animals and to cut grass for crossing the desert, as this is the last good camping-place until reaching Carson River. The ground near this place is boggy, and animals should be watered with buckets. The camping-ground here is on the right bank of the river, and about half a mile to the left of the main road. The water is in a slough, near its head, where will be found some springs which run off a short distance, but soon sink.

The road across the desert is very sandy, especially toward the western extremity. Twenty miles from the Sink of the Humboldt there are four wells. About half a mile east of the mail station the road leading to the wells turns to the right, where water can be purchased for from one to two shillings for each man and beast.

At 9-1/2 miles beyond the mail station, on the desert, a road turns off from the main trace toward a very high sandy ridge, and directly upon the top of this ridge is the crater of an extinct volcano, at the bottom of which is a salt lake. Upon the extreme north end of this lake will be found a large spring of fresh water, sufficient for 1000 animals. From thence to “Ragtown,” on Carson River, is three miles.

I would advise travelers, when their animals become exhausted before reaching this water, to take them out of harness and drive them to this place to recruit. There is some grass around the lake.

This desert has always been the most difficult part of the journey to California, and more animals have probably been lost here than at any other place. The parts of wagons that are continually met with here shows this most incontestably.

VI.—From Great Salt Lake City to Los Angeles and San Francisco, California.

Miles.	Salt Lake City to
20-5/8.	Willow Creek.—Good grass.
14.	American Creek.—Good grass.
11-1/2.	Provo City.—Town.
7-1/4.	Hobble Creek.—Good camp.
6.	Spanish Fork.—Good camp.
5.	Peteetneet.—Good camp.
25.	Salt Creek.—Several small streams between. Good camp.
18-5/8.	Toola Creek.—Ford. No wood; grass good.
6-1/4.	Sevier River.—Road is sandy, passing over a high ridge. Good camp.
25-1/2.	Cedar Creek.—Road rather mountainous and sandy. Good grass and wood.
17-1/2.	Creek.—This is the fourth stream south of Sevier River. Road crosses two streams. Good camp.
3-5/8.	Willow Flats.—The water sinks a little east of the road.
25.	Spring.—Good grass and water.
22-1/4.	Sage Creek.—Grass poor; wood and water.
5-1/8.	Beaver Creek.—Good wood, water, and grass.
27-1/4.	North Cañon Creek.—In Little Salt Lake Valley. Good grass; no wood. The road is rough and steep for six miles.
5-3/8.	Creek.—Good wood, water, and grass.
6-3/4.	Creek.—Good wood, water, and grass.
12-7/8.	Cottonwood Creek.—Good grass and water.
9.	Cedar Springs.—Good camp.
23.	Pynte Creek.—Good grass one mile up the cañon.
9.	Road Springs.—Road is rough; good camp.
16.	Santa Clara.—Road descending and rough; poor grass. From this point to Cahoon Pass look out for Indians.
17-1/8.	Camp Springs.—Two miles before reaching the springs the road leaves the Santa Clara. Good grass.
22-1/8.	Rio Virgin.—Road crosses over the summit of a mountain. Good road; grass poor.
39-5/8.	Rio Virgin.—Road runs down the Rio Virgin, crossing it ten times. Grass good down the river.
19-5/8.	Muddy Creek.—Road for half a mile is very steep and sandy. Good camp.
52-5/8.	Las Vegas.—Water is sometimes found 2-1/2 miles west of the road in holes 23 miles from the Muddy, and some grass about a mile from the road. Good camp.
5.	On Vegas.—Road runs up the river. Good grass.
17.	Cottonwood Spring.—Poor grass.
29-3/4.	Cottonwood Grove.—No grass. Water and grass can be found four miles west by following the old Spanish trail to a ravine, and thence to the left in the ravine one mile.
21-3/4.	Resting Springs.—Good grass and water. Animals should be rested here before entering the desert.
7.	Spring.—The spring is on the left of the road, and flows into Saleratus Creek. Animals must not be allowed to drink the Saleratus water.
14-1/8.	Salt Springs.—Poor grass and no fresh water.
38-3/4.	Bitter Springs.—Good road; poor grass.
30-3/4.	Mohave River.—Good road and good grass.
51-1/2.	On the Mohave.—Last ford. Good grass all the way up the Mohave.
17.	Cahoon Pass.—At the summit.
10.	Camp.—Road bad down the cañon.
11-1/2.	Coco Mongo Ranch.
10.	Del Chino Ranch.—Williams.
19-3/8.	San Gabriel River.
6.	San Gabriel Mission.
8-1/4.	Pueblo de los Angeles.
65-3/4.	Santa Clara River.—On the Coast Route. Good camps to San José.
7-1/2.	Buena Ventura Mission and River.—Road here strikes the Pacific shore.
26.	Santa Barbara.—Town.
45-3/4.	San Yenness River.—At the Mission.
78-7/8.	Santa Margareta.—Old Mission.
28-3/8.	San Miguel.—Old Mission.
24-3/4.	San Antonio River.
26-3/4.	Rio del Monterey.
15-5/8.	Solida Mission.—At the ford of Rio del Monterey.
37-1/2.	San Juan Mission.
33.	San José Pueblo.
75.	San Francisco.

VII.—From Fort Bridger to the “City of Rocks.” From Captain Handcock’s Journal.

Miles.	Fort Bridger to
9.	Little Muddy Creek.—Water brackish in pools along the creek; tall bunch-grass; sage for fuel. Road runs over a barren section, is rough, and passes one steep hill.
12-1/3.	Big Muddy Creek.—The road, with the exception of two or three bad gullies, is good for ten miles; it then follows the Big Muddy bottom, which is flat and boggy. The camp is three miles above the crossing. Some grass; sage for fuel.
14-1/5.	Small Branch of the Muddy Creek.—Cross the river in three miles at a bad ford. A mile above camp the grass is good. Road generally good.
19-1/2.	On Small Creek.—Road continues up the Muddy 9-1/2 miles to its head. It then ascends to the divide between Bear and Green Rivers, probably 800 feet, in 1-3/5 miles. The descent on the other side is about the same. The road passes many fine springs. At one and two miles back it passes points of hills, where it is very rough. Good grass and sage at camp.
8-9/10.	Bear River.—Bad creek to cross near the camp; thence to Bear River Valley the road is good. It then follows down the river, crossing Willow Creek. Good camp, with a large, fine spring.
17.	Bear River.—Good road along the river; plenty of wood, water, and grass at all points.
	Foot of Grant’s Mountain.—Road runs along Bear River; at 2-1/2 miles strikes Smith’s Fork, a rapid trout stream. The road crosses the lower ford. A few miles farther on is a bad slough, which can be avoided by taking a round on the hills. Cross Thomas’s Fork on a bridge, also a slough near it; toll $2.00 for each team and wagon. The road then leaves Bear River Valley, and turns over a very steep hill. Good grass, wood, and water.
12.	Bear River.—Road ascends Grant’s Mountain 1200 feet in 1-1/2 miles—double teams—then descends again into Bear River Valley at 4-4/5 miles. Good wood, water, and grass.
17-2/5.	Indian Creek.—Road crosses eight fine spring branches; camp is on a beautiful trout stream. Good wood, water, and grass.
11.	Spring near Bear River.—Road is hilly, crossing two spring branches. Good wood, water, and grass. The camp is on the left and near the road.
11.	Bear River.—At 6-7/10 miles the road strikes a large group of springs called “Soda Springs,” and here crosses Pine Creek, on the left bank of which is a saleratus lake. Soon after it strikes the main springs, and after crossing another creek the “Steam-boat Spring” may be seen in the bed of the river.
15.	“Port Neuf,” or Rock Creek.—At 2-3/10 miles the road leaves Bear River near where it runs through a cañon with high bluffs on each side. At this point the California and Fort Hall roads separate. The California road (called Hudspeth’s Cut-off) then crosses a valley between the Bear River and Port Neuf River Mountains, 9 miles. No water from camp to camp. Good camp.
15.	Marsh Creek.—About two miles above the main road the creek can be forded; a road leads to it from the descent into the valley. Road good; water and grass plenty; no wood.
16-1/5.	Paunack Creek.—First part of the road is hilly; the remainder good. Good camp.
7-1/5.	Mallade River.—At 7-1/5 miles the road crosses the Mallade River. Good camp 140 miles from Salt Lake City. Good road.
22-3/10.	Small Creek.—The road ascends a ridge through a cañon, and descends to a valley on the other side. From the camp to the summit of the ridge is 6-1/5 miles. The descent is 3-7/10 miles. It then crosses a valley 8 miles wide, and strikes a cañon which leads to the top of a hill over a rough road. Plenty of wood, water, and grass at camp, but no water between this and the last camp.
9-3/5.	Small Creek.—Road after five miles strikes a cañon with a long but gentle ascent. Two miles from the entrance of this cañon is a spring branch. There is wood and some grass and water at this place.
11-1/5.	Spring Branch.—The road passes through a cañon, and at 5 miles strikes the head of a spring branch, which it follows down 2-1/2 miles to the junction with a larger branch, which is bridged. At nine tenths of a mile another fork enters. Grass very fine here. Road follows down this across the main branch, and the camp is 2 miles below. Good camp.
18-1/2.	Decassure Creek, or Raft River.—Road continues down the creek 2-3/10 miles, and crosses, then ascends by a steep hill to an elevated sage plain, leaving the creek at 11-4/5 miles, and passes a slough with water. Good camp.
17-9/10.	Spring Branch.—The road crosses the creek near the last camp, and follows up a valley, crossing in five miles several spring branches. At 2-9/10 miles it crosses the creek again, and follows up the valley two miles farther, then crosses a high sage plain 8-9/10 miles long, when it strikes a spring 150 yards to the left of the road, where there is an excellent camp in a beautiful valley.
10.	Junction of Salt Lake City Road.—Road passes several small branches in 3 miles, then commences ascending through a cañon which, in 2-1/5 miles, leads to the entrance to the “City of Rocks,” and passes through these for three miles. It then crosses a ridge, leaving the City of Rocks, and at ten miles from last camp intersects the road from “Salt Lake City.” At 1-2/5 miles beyond this a road leads off to the right to a spring branch, 3 miles, where there is a good camp near the foot of Goose Creek Mountain. From this point California travelers can refer to the itinerary of the route from Salt Lake City to Sacramento.

VIII.—From Soda Springs to the City of Rocks, known as Hudspeth’sCut-off.

Miles. Soda Springs to

20. Bear River.—The road runs down Bear River, crossing some small streams. Good camp.

10. Portner Creek.—Camp at the head of the creek. Good wood, water, and grass.

12. Fork of Portner Creek.—Good camp.

15. Pauack Creek.—Road crosses a summit. Good road and camp.

12. Snake Spring.—Good camp.

12. Utha Spring.—Good camp.

15. Decassure Creek.—Road crosses a small stream; rather bad crossing. Good camp.

18. City of Rocks.—Junction of Salt Lake road. Good camp.

IX.—Sublets Cut-off, from the junction of the Salt Lake and FortHall Roads.

Miles. Junction to

7. Big Sandy.

44. Green River.—From the Big Sandy to Green River (upper road) there is an abundance of grass in places along the road, but no water.

6. Small Creek.—The road runs up the creek. Good grass.

4. On the Creek.—Good grass and water.

12. Small Spring.—The spring is on the left of the road. Good grass.

9. Ham’s Fork.—Good wood, water, and grass.

6. Spring.—On the summit of a mountain. Good grass.

6. Muddy Creek.—Wood, water, and grass.

10. Spring.—In Bear River Valley. Good wood, water, and grass.

6. Smith’s Fork.—In Bear, River Valley. Good wood, water; and grass.

10. Tomaus’ Fork.—Road runs down Bear River. Good wood, water, and grass.

7. Spring Creek.—Wood, water, and grass.

7. Smith’s Ford.—Road crosses over a spur of the mountain; long and gradual ascent; descent rather abrupt. Good wood, water, and grass.

8. Telleck’s Fork.—Road runs down Bear River. Good camp.

4. Small Creek.—Good camp.

7. Small Creek.—Good camp.

12. Soda Springs.—Left side of the road, among some cedars, is a good camp.

Here take the left-hand road to California, called Hudspeth’s Cut-off.

X.—From Lawson’s Meadows, on the Humboldt River, to Fort Reading, via Rogue River Valley, Fort Lane, Oregon Territory, Yreka, and Fort Jones.

Miles.	Lawson’s Meadows to
18-1/2.	Mountain Spring.—Road leaves the Humboldt, and takes a northwesterly course 12 miles to a spring of good water. Good bunch-grass to the left of the road, and a small spring at the camp. The road is plain on leaving the river, but after a few days it becomes faint. Road from this point passes over a desert country for about 60 miles, without good water or much grass.
38-1/2.	Black Rock Spring.—Road level and hard, with little vegetation. In 14 miles pass springs, but the water is not good. In 16 miles the road passes a slough which is difficult to cross; water not good, but can be given to cattle in small quantities. In five miles from this the road passes Black Rock, mentioned by Colonel Frémont in his trip from Columbia River in 1843-4. Three miles farther pass boiling springs, very hot, but good cooled. Grass pretty good.
20-1/4.	Mountain Rill.—Water good; bunch-grass in the vicinity. In eight miles’ travel the road passes a beautiful creek of pure water, with good grass.
5-3/4.	Lake (Marshy).
10-1/2.	High Rock Cañon.—This cañon is 25 miles long, with wild and curious scenery. Road crosses the creek frequently, and the mud is bad. In the autumn the road is good.
14-3/4.	High Rock Cañon.
	Small Creek.—Beautiful country, with the greatest abundance of water and grass; also fuel.
25-1/4.	Pine Grove Creek.—Road passes over an interesting country, well supplied with wood, water, and grass, and passes around the south end of a salt lake.
18-1/2.	West Slope of Sierra.—Road passes over the mountain, which is steep but not rocky, then descends to a small creek of good water which runs into Goose Lake. Good grass and fuel. Look out for the Indians, as they are warlike and treacherous here.
7-3/4.	East shore of Goose Lake.—Excellent camp.
16-1/4.	West shore of Goose Lake.—This is a beautiful sheet of fresh water; great quantities of water-fowl resort to this lake.
16-1/4.	Slough Springs.—The road passes over a very rocky divide, covered with loose volcanic debris, very hard for animals, and wearing to their feet. They should be well shod before attempting the passage.
18-1/2.	Marshy Lake.—Road difficult for wagons.
15.	Clear Lake.—Beautiful lake of pure water, with good grass around its shore.
25-1/4.	East shore of Rhett’s Lake.—Road tolerable over a rolling, rocky country, between lakes. The road crosses Lost River over a natural bridge, on a solid, smooth ledge of rock.
19.	West shore of Rhett’s Lake.—Plenty of wood, water, and grass along this road.
21.	Klamath River.—Road leaves Rhett’s Lake, and enters the forest and mountains; tolerably good. Good camp.
15-1/4.	Cascade Mountains.—The road passes over high mountains, through lofty pine-trees. Camp is at Summit Meadows. Good water and grass, also fuel.
14-1/4.	Western slope of Cascade Mountains.—Rough roads.
19-1/4.	Rogue River Valley.—Road descends into the settlements in six miles, where there is a lovely fertile valley, well settled with farmers.
23-3/4.	Fort Lane.—Near “Table Rock,” on Rogue River, eight miles from Jacksonville. Dragoon post.
22-3/4.	Rogue River Valley.—Good camp.
18.	Siskiyou Mountains.—Road crosses the Siskiyou Mountains, and is difficult for wagons.
18.	Yreka.—Flourishing mining city.
18.	Fort Jones.—Infantry post, in Scott’s Valley.
20.	Scott’s Mountain.—Good camp at the foot of the mountain. Road passes over the mountains, but is impassable for wagons.
90.	Shasta City.—Good grass, wood, and water.
180.	Sacramento City.

XI.—From Soda Springs to Fort Wallah Wallah and Oregon City, Oregon, via Fort Hall.

Miles. Soda Springs to

25. Portner Creek.—Good camp. Take the right-hand road.

10. Ross’s Creek.—Good camp.

10. Fort Hall Valley.—Good camp. Road runs down the creek.

8. Snake River.—Good camp. Road crosses the river bottom.

5. Fort Hall.

15. Small Branch.—Camp is three miles below the crossing of Port Neuf River, which is fordable. Good wood, water, and grass.

10. American Falls.—Good camp.

13. Raft River.—Road rough and rocky. Sage for fuel; grass scarce.

17. Bend of Swamp Creek.—Grass scarce.

20. On Snake River.—Road crosses Swamp and Goose Creeks. Wood on the hills; grass short.

25. Rock Creek.—Road crosses one small creek, and is very rough and rocky for several miles, when it enters a sandy region, where the grass is scarce; sage plenty, and willows on the creek.

24. Snake River.—Road crosses several small branches. There is but little grass except in narrow patches along the river bottom.

26. Fishing Falls.—Road very crooked and rough, crossing two small streams.

29. Snake River.—Road crosses several small creeks, but leaves the main river to the north, and runs upon an elevated plateau. Good grass at camp.

16. Snake River (ford).—Road tortuous; ford good in low water.

19. Small Branch.—Road crosses Snake River, and follows up a small branch, leaving the river to the left. Good grass. Road ascends to a high plateau, which it keeps during the whole distance.

26. River “Aux Rochers.”—Road passes Hot Springs, and is rough. Wood, water, and grass plenty.

22. Small Creek.—Road crosses two small branches, and is very rocky, but at camp grass, wood, and water are abundant.

23. Rio Boisè.—Road crosses one small creek, and follows along the Boisè River. Good wood, water, and grass.

26. Fort Boisè.—Road follows the south bank of Boisè River to the fort.

2. Fort Boisè.—Road crosses Boisè River. Good ford at ordinary stages. Grass good in the river bottom.

20. River “Aux Matthews.”—Good road. Grass abundant, but coarse; wood and water plenty.

27. Snake River.—Road passes over a rough country. Grass scarce and of a poor quality.

20. Burnt River.—Road leaves Snake River, and takes across Burnt River, following up the north side of this to the camp. It is mountainous and rough, but the grass is good, and there is wood along the river.

22. Burnt River.—Road continues up the river, and is still rough and mountainous. Grass and wood plenty.

26. Small Branch.—Road passes over a divide to “Powder River.” It is still rough, but getting better. The grass is good.

13. Powder River.—Good road; grass plenty.

21. Creek.—Road passes a divide, crossing several small streams, and is smooth, with plenty of grass and fuel.

20. Creek.—Road crosses one small branch, and is rather rough. The grass and fuel are good and abundant.

21. Creek.—Road follows down the creek for ten miles, then turns up a small branch, and is good. There is plenty of grass and fuel.

12. Branch.—Road crosses a divide and strikes another branch.

5. Small branch of the Umatilah River.—Good road, with plenty of wood and grass.

16. Branch of Wallah Wallah River.—Wood, water, and grass.

18. Wallah Wallah River.—Wood, water, and grass. Columbia River at Fort Wallah Wallah.—Wood, water, and grass.

10. Butler Creek.—Good camp.

18. Wells’s Spring.—Good camp.

12. Willow Creek.—Good camp.

13. Cedar Spring.—Good camp.

6. John Day’s River.—Good camp.

5. Forks of Road.—No camping. Left-hand road for wagons, and right-hand for pack trains. This itinerary takes the left.

10. Ouley’s Camp.—Good camp.

19. Soot’s River.—Good camp.

6. Fall River.—Good camp.

10. Utah’s River.—Good camp.

18. Soot’s River.—Good camp.

6. Soot’s River.—Good camp. Road follows up the river, crossing it several times.

16. Sand River Fork.—Good grass a mile and a half to the left of the road.

8. Good Camp.

15. Royal Hill Camp.—Good camp.

7. Sandy River.—But little grass.

45. Down the River.—Good camps all the distance.

25. Oregon City.—Good camps all the distance.

75. Salem.—Good camps all the distance.

XII.—Route for pack trains from John Day’s River to Oregon City.

Miles.	John Day’s River to
17.	Columbia River.—From John Day’s River to the forks of the road, and thence by the right-hand fork to the Columbia. Good camp.
2-1/2.	Soot’s River Ferry.—Good camp.
15.	Dalles.—Good camp.
25.	Dog River.—Good camp.
15.	Cascade Mountains.—One bad place.
9.	Ouley’s Rock.—Good camp.
20.	Image Plain Ferry.—Good camp.
15.	Portland.—Good camp.
12.	Oregon City.—Good camp.

XIII.—From Indianola and Powder-horn to San Antonio, Texas.

Miles.	Powder-horn to
4.	Indianola, Texas.—Steamers run from New Orleans five times a week to Powder-horn.
14.	Chocolate Creek.—Good grass and water; fuel scarce. Road passes over a low, flat country, which in wet weather is heavy and muddy.
12.	Grove.—Grove of oak; good water and grass. The road passes over a hog-wallow prairie, which is very muddy, and almost impassable for loaded teams after rains. The grass is abundant every where in this section.
12-1/2.	Victoria.—The road is good, passing along near the east bank of the Guadalupe River. The country is thickly settled with farmers, who sell grain at reasonable rates. Grass abundant, also fuel.
34.	Yorktown.—Road crosses the Guadalupe River on a bridge; toll one dollar for a six-mule team. It then crosses a low bottom for three miles; from thence the road is good, over a rolling country, with plenty of wood, water, and grass.
33.	Cibello River.—Good road; wood, water, and grass plenty.
35.	San Antonio.—Good road, with plenty of wood, water, and grass along the road. The Cibello is fordable at ordinary stages. The traveler can procure any thing he may need at Victoria and at San Antonio.

XIV.—Wagon-road from San Antonio, Texas, to El Paso, N.M., and Fort Yuma, Cal.

[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]

Miles.	San Antonio to
6.41.	Leona.
18.12.	Castroville.
11.00.	Hondo.
14.28.	Rio Seco.
12.50.	Sabinal.
13.46.	Rio Frio.
15.12.	Nueces.
10.27.	Turkey Creek.
15.33.	Elm Creek.—All good camps, with abundance of wood, water, and grass. Country mostly settled, and the road very good, except in wet weather, from San Antonio to Elm Creek.
7.00.	Fort Clarke.—Good grass, wood, and water. Road level and good.
7.00.	Piedra Pinta,—Good grass, wood, and water.
8.86.	Maverick’s Creek.—Good grass, wood, and water.
12.61.	San Felipé.—Good grass, wood, and water.
10.22.	Devil’s River.—First crossing. Good wood, water, and grass.
18.27.	California Springs.—Grass and water poor.
18.39.	Devil’s River.—Second crossing. Grass poor.
19.50.	Devil’s River.—Good camp. The only water between Devil’s River and Live Oak Creek is at Howard’s Springs. The road is very rough in places.
44.00.	Howard’s Springs.—Grass scarce; water plenty in winter; wood plenty.
30.44.	Live Oak Creek.—Good water and grass. The road passes within 1-1/2 miles of Fort Lancaster.
7.29.	Crossing of Pecos River.—Bad water and bad camp. The water of the Pecos can be used.
5.47.	Las Moras.—Good water, grass, and wood. The road is rough on the Pecos.
32.85.	Camp on the Pecos River.—Wood and grass scarce.
16.26.	Escondido Creek.—At the crossing. Water good; little grass or wood.
8.76.	Escondido Spring.—Grass and water good; little grass.
19.40.	Comanche Creek.—Grass and water good; little grass.
8.88.	Leon Springs.—Grass and water good; no wood.
33.86.	Barela Spring.—Grass and water good; wood plenty.
28.00.	Fort Davis.—Good camp. From Fort Davis to Eagle Springs there is an ascent, and one of the very best of roads.
18.42.	Barrel Springs.—Water good; grass and wood fair.
13.58.	Dead Man’s Hole.—Good wood and water; grass scarce.
32.83.	Van Horne’s Wells.—No grass or wood, but they will be found two miles back.
19.74.	Eagle Springs.—Grass and wood poor; water about half a mile from camp, in a narrow cañon.
32.03.	Mouth of Cañon “de los Camenos.”—The road is rather rough. From here to Fort Bliss, opposite El Paso, the road runs near the river, and camps may be made any where. The wood, water, and grass are good at all points.
61.13.	San Eluzario.—Mexican town.
9.25.	Socorro.—Mexican town.
15.00.	Fort Bliss, at El Paso.—United States military post and Mexican town.

Total distance from San Antonio to El Paso, 654.27 miles.

Miles.	El Paso to
22.	Cottonwood.—From El Paso to Messilla Valley, in the Gadsden Purchase, the road runs up the east bank of the Rio Grande to Fort Fillmore (N.M.), where it crosses the river into the Messilla Valley.
22.	Fort Fillmore.
6.	La Messilla.
65.	Cook’s Spring.—From Messilla Valley to Tucson the road is remarkably good, with good grass and water. The streams on this section are the Mimbres and San Pedro, both fordable, and crossed with little trouble. The Apache Indians are generally met with in this country. There is a flouring-mill two miles below El Paso, where flour can be purchased at very reasonable prices.
18.	Rio Mimbres.
17.	Ojo la Vaca.
10.	Ojo de Ynez.
34.	Peloncilla.
18.	San Domingo.
23.	Apache Springs.
9.	Cabesas Springs.
26.	Dragon Springs.
18.	Quercos Cañon.—Bunch-grass will be found sufficient for traveling purposes along this section of the road between El Paso and Tucson.
6.	San Pedro Crossing.
20.	Cienega.
13.	Cienega Creek.
20.	Mission of San Navier.
8.	Tucson.—Total distance from El Paso to Tucson, 305 miles.
5.	Pico Chico Mountain.
35.	First Camp on Gila River.
29.	Maricopa Wells.—The Maricopa Wells are at the western extremity of a fertile valley occupied by Pincos Indians, who cultivate corn and other grain.
40.	Tezotal.—Across Jornada. There is but little grass here, but in the season the mesquite leaves are a good substitute.
10.	Ten Mile Camp.
15.	Oatman’s Flat.—First crossing of the Gila River.
25.	Second Crossing of the Gila.—The traveler can generally find sufficient grass in the hills along the valley of the Gila.
32.	Peterman’s Station.
20.	Antelope Peak.
24.	Little Corral.
16.	Fort Yuma.

The distance from El Paso to Fort Yuma is 644 miles.

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