1854 — XCI
Marseilles, February 27, 1854.
My apology for not writing since my departure for Europe, in November last, is of the most plausible nature. I have been under the care of two of the most scientific oculists of Paris for the past six weeks, for the relief of a species of ophthalmy, produced by the excessive glare of light, and fine dust during my journeyings in Spain last year. Finding myself partially relieved, and once again on my winding way, I will briefly state that less than a month had elapsed from the time I stepped on board the fleet and gorgeous steamer Arctic, for Liverpool, before I found myself in the great Babylon of modern times, London.
After a hasty visit to the manufacturing establishments of Manchester and Bradford, looking in upon the famous steelworks of Sanderson & Son, and the cutlery shops and depots of Joseph Rodgers & Son (both of Sheffield), spending a Sabbath in the old city of York, and enjoying the chanting of melodious voices, from a numerous choir in its much renowned Cathedral, I made an excursion to a cheese fair, where I found John Bull up to his shoulders in tons of choice Cheshire and Stilton.
The powerful agency of steam, and the perfection of the railway system, soon transported me across England to the eastern counties, the land of my ancestors, famed for its agriculture and game; thence to Yarmouth, the old town celebrated for its fisheries and sea-bathing, with its labyrinths of lanes, numbering from one to a hundred, through its very centre; only accessible for donkeys and foot passengers, impenetrable to foes without, and impracticable to home police in case of revolt. The herring fisheries were prodigious, and I recognised the cut of the Hollanders, who were attracted thither with their vessels. Providence in his wisdom had caused the ocean to yield a substitute for that which the soil this year refused, and in return for ingratitude the surplus was thrown upon the land.
Several excursions were made from the city of Norfolk to the farms of some of the branches bearing our family name, over well macadamized roads, and through highly cultivated grounds, surrounded with hawthorn hedges, inclosing herds of Devonshire, Hereford, and other famous breeds of cattle, not forgetting the flocks of Southdown and Leicester sheep, feeding from hurdles, upon the large Ruta Baga turnip; the scenery is interspersed with game forests belonging to the lords and nobility; they were delightful to the eye. But it was necessary to look further, and inquire into the working of the system. The products of the country bring high prices, but tithes and taxes reduce them. Labor is ill rewarded, and the distinction between the rich and the respectable poor is too strongly marked. The cry is for reform, and the British Parliament will be obliged to listen to it. One of the parties whom I visited pays eighty pounds, or four hundred dollars, church-tithes annually, in lieu of one-tenth part of the crop, and without the enjoyment of any of the advantages, for he is of the reformed religion, and has a small church upon his grounds.
The season was cold and wet, unfavorable for a long sojourn in England. I remained some ten days in London, revisiting some of the public monuments and works of art, which I had formerly described to you; also, the famous brewery establishments of Barclay, Perkins & Co., and Henry Meux & Co., which are among the great sights of the metropolis; the former, particularly, has been visited by thousands of strangers since the expulsion of Gen. Haynau, the Austrian butcher, by Barclay & Perkins’s draymen.
These works are gigantic, covering several acres of ground, and employing millions of capital. The quantity of ale manufactured on the average is equal to a thousand barrels (of thirty-six gallons) each per day; the gross quantity is four hundred thousand barrels each per annum, which enters into ordinary consumption, as ale and porter are the general beverage of the nation, and its first source of revenue under the excise is the malt and hop-tax. It is curious to look over the stables of one hundred and fifty of their mammoth dray-horses; the name of each is lettered over the stall. A small engine is used for cutting hay and straw, and cracking the grain, for feeding.
I attended the Smithfield Cattle Show, which gave me an opportunity of seeing the finest specimens of English and Scotch fat cattle, of the choicest breeds I had ever seen, the famous heifer of Wm. H. Worrall, of Dutchess county, being the only exception for her age. Prince Albert took the first prize for the finest exhibit of pigs.
Having attended the State Fair at Saratoga last autumn, I was better enabled to judge of our Poultry Show, which certainly compared favorably with the exhibition which took place while I was in Norfolk. The drove of Kentucky cattle, after a long drive to Saratoga, will be admitted by those who saw them to have been a beautiful sight, and gratifying to American pride.
Having made a sort of pilgrimage through one branch of my ancestry, I was anxious to visit in detail the work of another branch, the Guy Hospital in London, founded by Thomas Guy, whose honored name I bear. This noble Institution, one of the most celebrated in the world for its usefulness, was founded in 1722, upon a gigantic scale, in the Borough, across London Bridge. The founder, a bachelor, who had amassed a large fortune in trade and in the South Sea Expedition, conceived the laudable project of establishing an institution for all time, for the relief of suffering humanity. The buildings are airy and spacious, the residences of the governors exceedingly comfortable. He lived to complete the work, and enjoy the pleasure of its fruits for some twenty years, leaving an endowment of two hundred thousand pounds. The grounds have been enlarged, and new structures have been added with all the recent improvements for heat as well as ventilation, and it is now capable of containing from three hundred to four hundred patients, with a degree of comfort and cleanliness almost equal to a well regulated hotel. A small lunatic asylum, separate and distinct, is within the grounds, inclosed. The museum is a collection of wax figures, for the use of medical students, portraying almost all the diseases to which the human family is liable; it is a separate building, and is equal in merit to the famed exhibitions which I had visited in Montpelier in France, and Florence and Bologna in Italy. The institution is in the most flourishing condition, thanks to the legacy of the generous Mr. Brooks, who left it his entire fortune, upwards of a million of dollars. Medicines are distributed to all who apply, which privilege is abused, as I noticed in attendance, in airy, comfortable halls, in one wing of the buildings, seated upon benches, scores of men, women, and children, many even handsomely dressed, who, through avarice, avail themselves of this charity; but the will of the testator must be observed.
Notwithstanding the agitation of the Oriental Question, and the high price of provisions, I found Paris in the midst of its holiday festivities. The government understands so well the wants and desires of the small dealers in fancy articles, that all sorts of amusements are encouraged, whereby money is put in circulation. Several magnificent balls have been given by the Emperor at the Tuileries. The Municipality of Paris has also given grand balls at the Hotel de Ville. Masquerade balls take place weekly at the Grand Opera. The condition of my eyes prevented my joining in many of the gaieties of Paris. The evening of my presentation, however, to the Emperor and Empress, I assisted at the Court Dress Ball at the Tuileries, where were present some three thousand persons, and it was certainly the most brilliant affair I had ever seen in Europe before. We were some twenty-five persons in the saloon adjoining the imperial apartments, awaiting a special presentation; after which, following in the train of the ladies of honor to the grand saloon of the Marshals, the dense multitude opening in line, we formed ourselves in front of a sort of throne, with an orchestra for the music alone. Their Imperial Majesties being seated, were surrounded by the ex-king Jerome Bonaparte, the Grand Duchess of Baden, and other distinguished members of royalty. The Emperor opened the ball with the wife of the Ambassador of Belgium, the Empress dancing with the Minister of Austria; the quadrille was made up by the Minister of Finance, Mr. Fould, and Marshal Magnan, and their partners. The dance then became general in the vast saloons adjoining, and the music of an additional fanciful kind. Waltzing was followed by beautiful young ladies and their cavaliers, who aspired to the privilege of displaying themselves in the presence of the Imperial group. The vast gilded saloons of this immense palace were brilliantly illuminated from suspended candelabra; the great variety of uniforms, Military, Naval, Diplomatique and Civil, Turkish, Greek, and Hungarian, and others, with the rich costly robes of the ladies, certainly presented one of the most magnificent spectacles the eye could behold; diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and other precious gems, were dazzling to one’s eyes.
Mr. Mason, our Minister, appeared in court dress, notwithstanding the request of Secretary Marcy to all diplomatic functionaries to appear only in plain garb, which instruction should have been made positive, if made at all, and it would not have led to the unpleasant incidents already experienced by our representatives.
As simple citizens of the Republic, we must subscribe to the rules of foreign courts, or exclude ourselves from such festivities; consequently necessity obliged me to take my rank as aide-de-camp, with a sword and chapeau. One of the most “observed of all observers,” was a German Prince, the Duke of Brunswick, who was a burlesque on royalty. He wore a peruque with curls, thick rouge on his face, a court dress emblazoned with gold and precious stones; white doe-skins, with diamond knee-buckles; silk stockings, and pumps with diamond shoe-buckles; his epaulettes were of topaz and diamonds, the scabbard and hilt of his sword were of gold, beset with emeralds, rubies, and brilliants; his breast was covered with orders and massive gold chains, encircled with gems; even his chapeau was decorated in like manner. In a word, he was an eccentric, and in my eyes a vain and conceited personage.
The early refreshment saloons, and the two o’clock supper halls at the two extreme ends of the banquet rooms, were visited by the imperial party, after which they retired.
The entertainment was sumptuous, and what might be expected from imperial munificence, with the art and taste of the French cuisine.
From Paris to Chalons, by railway, eleven hours’ ride, a night’s repose, and eight hours’ descent of the Saone by steamer, through what would be a picturesque country at a more favorable feature of the year, and one finds himself at the great silk manufacturing city of Lyons.
The navigation of the Rhone was interrupted by low water. Last year I made half the distance to Avignon by steamer at the same season; now I had no recourse except a twenty-four hours’ ride in the diligence; two hours’ additional by railroad brought me to this commercial city of Marseilles for the fourth time. Of course I have nothing new to offer you.
I propose visiting two islands of the Mediterranean, which I have not seen, and of which little is known by travellers. The first, Corsica, which gave birth to Napoleon, is improving; but the other island, Sardinia, remains in a primitive state, so I shall probably meet with something that will interest you.