Mount Rainier National Park
Location: West-Central Washington. Area: 324 square miles. Season: June 15 to September 15. Address of Supervisor: Ashford, Washington.
Mount Rainier National Park includes a single great mountain and its approaches, but the Reservation offers unlimited variety and enjoyment for every class of tourist. An automobile road extends to the very edge of the glaciers; trails lead through the fragrant woods and wild-flower meadows; rocky outliers of the great mountain afford endless opportunities for climbing; and the great snow-covered peak flings his defiance to those that are strong of wind and limb. As the glaciers are only four hours’ ride by automobile from Tacoma a glimpse of these rivers of ice may be obtained in a two-day trip, but many days might well be spent in seeing the beauties of nature that are grouped in an area that is relatively small.
Railroad Connections
The southern portion of the Park—the only part developed at present—is reached from Ashford, 6½ miles from the Park, on the Tacoma Eastern Railroad, a branch line of the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul. The round-trip fare from Tacoma to Ashford is $4.00. From Ashford automobile stages of the Rainier National Park Company run to the principal points on the south side—Longmire Springs, 6½ miles from the Park entrance; the camp at Nisqually Glacier; and the new hotel and camp at Paradise Valley, in the very shadow of the mountain. This company also operates public automobiles from Seattle and Tacoma.
Automobile transportation rates
| Seattle to Longmire Springs and return | $9.50 |
| Seattle to Paradise Valley and return | 12.50 |
| Tacoma to Longmire Springs and return | 7.00 |
| Tacoma to Paradise Valley and return | 10.00 |
| Ashford to Longmire Springs and return | 2.00 |
| Ashford to Paradise Valley and return | 5.00 |
The northern portion of the Park is reached from Fairfax and Enumclaw, on the Northern Pacific Railway. The round-trip fare from Tacoma is $2.50 to Fairfax, and $2.00 to Enumclaw. There are no transportation lines that operate on this side of the Park and arrangements must be made for pack-horses and camp outfits.
Automobile Routes
There is a good automobile road from Tacoma and Seattle to Ashford, and thence through the National Forest to Longmire Springs, Nisqually Glacier, and Paradise Valley. For 28 miles from Tacoma the road runs at the base of huge timbered bluffs, traverses the Ohop Valley, and reaches the Park by way of the Nisqually Cañon. The distance from Tacoma to Longmire Springs is 57 miles; from Seattle, 96 miles.
Automobilists are required to obtain a permit from the Park Supervisor at Ashford. The fee for an automobile is $4.00 for a single round trip through the Park or $6.00 for a season permit. The fee for a motor-cycle is $1.00 for the season. The regulations provide that automobiles and motor-cycles may use the road from the boundary of the Park to Longmire Springs only between 6 A.M. and 9 p.m.; but no car or motor-cycle is allowed to enter the Park or leave Longmire Springs in the direction of the western boundary later than 8.30 P.M. Automobiles and motor-cycles may use the road from Longmire Springs to Paradise Valley only between 6 A.M. and 9.30 P.M.; but no machine is allowed to leave Longmire Springs in the direction of Paradise Valley later than 7.30 P.M. or depart from Paradise Valley in the direction of Longmire Springs before 6 A.M. or later than 7.30 P.M. The speed limit ranges from 8 to 15 miles per hour.
Regular automobile service between the Park and Seattle and Tacoma is rendered at the rates given on page 461.
Hotels and Camps
At Longmire Springs, 6½ miles from the entrance to the Park, are the National Park Inn and Camp and the Longmire Springs Hotel. The rates at the National Park Inn are $4.00 and $4.50 per day in the hotel, and $3.75 and $4.00 in the camp. The rates at Longmire Springs Hotel are $2.50 per day.
The Rainier National Park Company has a new modern hotel (Paradise Inn) in Paradise Park, within easy access of the glaciers. The same company also operates a lunch pavilion at Paradise Park and camps at Paradise Park, Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground, and Nisqually Glacier.
Paradise Inn is operated on both the American and European plan at the following rates:—
| American plan:— | ||
| Meals at Inn and bed in tents | $3.50 | |
| Meals and room at Inn | $3.75 to 6.25 | |
| European plan:— | ||
| Tents | $.75 to $1.00 | |
| Rooms | 1.00 to 3.50 | |
| Meals à la carte. | ||
A discount of 20 per cent is allowed persons remaining one week or more.
There is also a camp at Paradise Park at which tents may be obtained for 50 cents per day. These tents are all floored and contain a double bed, spring, mattress, washstand, bowl, pitcher, and chair. Blankets and sheets, pillows, pillow-cases, and towels may be rented, or the tourist may bring his own equipment. Meals may be obtained at an à la carte lunch pavilion or they may be prepared at outdoor cook furnace at the camp. Staple supplies may be purchased.
Rates at camp at Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground are: bed, $.75; meals, $.75; board per week, $15.
Rates at camp at Nisqually Glacier are $.75 and $1.00 per day; meals à la carte.
Free public camping grounds are provided at Hausen’s Camp, Kautz Creek, Longmire Springs, Van Trump Park, and Paradise Valley. Firewood and running water are available at all these places, but the camper must bring his own equipment.
Trips
The only road in this Park is the one extending from the entrance past Longmire Springs and Nisqually Glacier to Paradise Park. All other trips are made on horseback or on foot over the network of excellent trails that have been cut through the forest. There are no regular tours scheduled as in some of the other Parks, but special arrangements have to be made for guides and horses at the established rates.
Transportation service within the Park is rendered by the Rainier National Park Company, which operates automobiles on the road along the south side of the mountain and has horses for hire at the hotels at Longmire Springs and Paradise Valley and the camp at Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground.
Transportation rates
| Automobile, Longmire Springs to Nisqually Glacier and return | $1.00 |
| Automobile, Longmire Springs to Paradise Valley and return | 3.00 |
| Horses, per day | 3.50 |
The same company also furnishes guides free of charge for parties of five or more; if there are less than five persons in the party the charge for guide is $3.50 per day.
The places listed below by no means exhaust the attractive spots of this reservation, but are given for the benefit of the person whose time is limited. There is a good trail encircling the mountain and the circuit may be made in about a week. Pack-animals and guides may be obtained from the Rainier National Park Company. Camping outfits should be secured in Seattle or Tacoma.
On the southern side of the Park Paradise Park, Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground, and Van Trump Park are the most easily reached and consequently the most frequented places. As the trails to these places are well defined, guides will not be needed.
Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground, 6½ miles from Longmire Springs, is reached by trail only. This trip may be made afoot, or ponies may be secured at Longmire Springs where the most frequently used of the three trails leading to this resort begins. A tent camp is located in Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground.
To reach Van Trump Park the same Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground trail is taken, branching off to the right after about 1 mile of travel. This Park is also reached by a trail starting from the Government road at Christine Falls, about 4 miles above Longmire Springs, and following up Van Trump Creek. This is one of the most picturesque trails in the Park. From it can be seen beautiful glimpses of a deep cañon and a succession of cascades or falls.
Ramparts Ridge, 1¼ miles north of Longmire Springs, from which a fine view is obtained, is a very popular trip. The climb of about 1000 feet can be made in about one hour.
Eagle Peak (elevation 5955 feet), 3¼ miles east from Longmire Springs, is also a popular trip. A good foot trail leads directly to the summit, which commands a magnificent view of the south side of Mount Rainier and the surrounding country. Parties making this trip usually take lunch along, and spend several hours at the summit.
The Ohanapecosh Valley, with its beautiful Silver Spring Falls, is reached by trail only from Longmire Springs. This is a trip filled with interest, but should be taken only by good riders or pedestrians who are accustomed to long, hard walks.
The glaciers may be reached from the hotel in Paradise Park and the camp at Nisqually Glacier. The glaciers should not be crossed without a guide or unless shoes are properly calked. The charge for guide to snow-fields and glaciers is $1.50 per person. This charge includes clothing and equipment. The minimum charge for guide service is $8.00.
There are no hotels or camps in the northern portion of the Park, and persons visiting this region must have complete camping outfits and a supply of provisions. Pack-horses may be secured by engaging them in advance from H. A. Loss, Carbonado, Washington, or from Curtis White, Enumclaw, Washington. The entire northern side is a wonderful region of mountains and valleys that has been visited by only a few tourists.
A trip to Pinnacle Peak and return may be made from Paradise Park in from 6 to 8 hours. The charge for a guide is $4.00 per person with a minimum charge of $12.00. Clothing and equipment are furnished without extra cost.
Climbing the Mountain1
The ascent of the mountain should be attempted only by those who have the necessary endurance and who are able to climb in the rare air of such an altitude. Unless the tourist is hardened from recent outdoor life, he should train himself on the peaks of the Tatoosh Range, just to the south, or on the other summits that are bare of ice. Above all, no person should ever attempt the ascent unless accompanied by an experienced guide. There is no record of any person having perished when accompanied by a guide, but the mountain has taken its deadly toll from those who dared to make the trip alone.
“The guide is there not merely to show the way, but to tell the tourist how to climb, how fast to go, when to rest and to take nourishment, and to take care of him in case he is overcome with exhaustion or is taken with mountain sickness.
“Finally, account must be taken of the exceeding fickleness of the weather conditions on the mountain. Only guides familiar with Rainier’s many moods can presume to foretell whether the day will turn out favorable for a climb or not. What may look to the uninitiated like harmless, fleecy vapors on the summit may be the forerunners of a sudden snowstorm which no one could hope to live through. A majority of those who have perished on the mountain have been overcome by blizzard-like storms. Such storms may occur even in midsummer, and on the summit are always attended by fierce gales against which it is impossible to hold one’s footing.”
The ascent is generally made from Paradise Park over the rocky ridge known as Gibraltar. Paradise Park lies near timber-line at an altitude of 5500 feet; as the altitude of the summit is 14,408 feet, the total climb is a little over 8900 feet in a distance of about 7 miles. The start is generally made about 1 o’clock in the morning in order that the return may be made before dark; it is also advisable to climb beyond the snow-fields before the surface becomes softened by the sun. By sunrise one may expect to reach the base of the Cowlitz Cleaver at an altitude of 10,000 feet.
“The ascent of the Cowlitz Cleaver is quite taxing, being mostly over rough, angular lava blocks. By 8 o’clock, as a rule, the base of Gibraltar Rock is reached. A narrow ledge is followed along the face of the cliff, part of the way overhung by rock masses and huge icicles, and this ledge leads to the base of a narrow chute between the ice of the upper Nisqually Glacier and the body of Gibraltar. This chute offers the most serious difficulties in the ascent. Ropes are usually suspended from the cliffs, whereby one may assist himself upward. It is wise to move one at a time, as there is ever danger of the persons above starting rock débris and ice fragments that may injure those below. The ascent and descent of the chute are therefore inevitably time-consuming. Ordinarily the saddle above Gibraltar (12,679 feet) is not reached until 10 o’clock.
“From Gibraltar on there remains only a long snow-slope to climb, but this snow-slope is often exceedingly fatiguing. Huge, gaping crevasses develop in it which must be skillfully avoided by détours. Freshly fallen snow may be so deep that one plunges into it to the waist, or else the snow may have melted out into tapering spines and so-called honeycombs many feet high, among which one cannot travel without considerable exertion.
“The rim of the south crater is usually reached about 11 o’clock. It is always bare of snow, and shelter from the high gales may be found behind the great rock blocks on the crest. Metal cases are left here in which the tourist may inscribe the record of his ascent.
“The crater is always filled with snow and may be traversed without risk; only one should be careful near the edges, as the snow there is melted out in caverns by the steam jets which rise from beneath it in many places. Those having the strength may go on to Columbia Crest, the snow dome that constitutes the highest summit of the mountain. The return to the camp is easily made in from five to six hours.”
The climber should wear woolen underwear, flannel shirt, riding-breeches, leggings or puttees, woolen army socks, stout shoes well calked, a felt hat, sweater, and short warm coat. Women should by all means wear riding-breeches, as skirts or bloomers offer too great resistance to the wind. Women will generally find woolen Boy Scout stockings best adapted for a trip of this kind; leggings or puttees may be worn over them as desired. Both women and men should tie their hats firmly under the chin, in order that the tramper may not be hampered by the necessity of holding the hat if the wind is strong. Other things needed, which may be procured at the camp in Paradise Park, are: alpenstocks, amber glasses, calks, hobnails, and actor’s paint to protect the face from sun-burn.
“Before starting on the ascent, do not eat such articles as fried eggs, fried potatoes, hot cakes, or heavy pastry. Abstain from coffee and tobacco, if possible. Spirituous liquor of any kind is taboo, except as a stimulant in case of collapse. Beef tea, lean meat, all dry breakfast foods, cocoa, sweet chocolate, crackers, hardtack, dry bread, rice, raisins, prunes, dates, and tomatoes are in order. The simpler the diet, on the whole, the more beneficial it is likely to be. Never eat much at a sitting during the ascent, but eat often and little at a time. These are rules well known to mountaineers. The more faithfully one complies with them the higher one’s efficiency will be and the keener the enjoyment of the trip.”
Guides to the summit of Mount Rainier will be supplied at the rate of $10.00 per person in parties of not less than 5 persons, or minimum charge of $50 for each ascent. An assistant guide will accompany the party when it consists of more than 8 tourists. There is an additional charge of $2.50 per person for furnishing complete suits of clothing, shoes, glasses, alpenstocks, and other necessary equipment.
Clothing and Equipment
Rough and warm clothing should be carried by all persons who expect to do much tramping. Suggestions are given elsewhere regarding clothing to be worn on a climb to the summit. The equipment here described is for the climber who travels the trails and climbs the rock ridges. The best equipment for men consists of medium-weight woolen underwear, flannel shirt, woolen riding-breeches, leggings or puttees, woolen army socks, sweater, poncho, and heavy shoes; if rock-climbing is to be done, the shoes should be well supplied with hobnails. Women should wear light-weight woolen underwear, flannel middy blouse, sweater, small felt hat, woolen riding-breeches, poncho, woolen stockings, puttees or leggings, sneakers, and stout shoes with hobnails if rock-climbing is to be done. Many women object to the poncho because of the difficulty of getting it over the head; a good substitute is a Boy Scout cape. Felt hats should be worn by men and women in preference to cap, as the hat offers better protection from the rain. A man’s felt hat makes the best headgear for a woman.
Camping outfits must be obtained in Seattle or Tacoma. Provisions may be purchased at Ashford, Longmire Springs, Fairfax, Carbonado, and Enumclaw.
Fishing
Cutthroat trout are the only fish caught in this Park. The fish are not large, but are fairly plentiful. Salmon eggs or angle worms are used exclusively for bait. In summer the fishing is not good in the streams that flow from glaciers, as they are generally muddy at this period. A fishing license is not required.
Notes
1 The paragraphs quoted are from an article by Mr. François E. Matthes, of the United States Geological Survey.