Face Brick Veneer Construction
Advantages
As already indicated, this type of wall construction is preferred by some builders because it is somewhat less expensive than solid brick or hollow tile and can be more quickly built. The wooden frame may be completed and roofed before the brick veneer is started on the outside. If constructed according to our specifications, the veneered wall makes a much warmer and more comfortable house than frame, not only because the veneer wall is over 2 inches thicker than the frame, but because the brick veneering forms a solid monolithic shell that steadies the framework and is proof against the wind pressure that searches out the cracks and crannies of the less substantial construction. Furthermore, while the veneer house does not get the favored insurance rates of the solid brick structure, it is, if provided with a non-combustible roof, safe against adjacent fires; in fact, from the exterior, presents the advantages of a solid face brick house.
Construction
In this type of construction the studding is not placed at the face of the foundation wall, but set at the back of the wall, allowing sufficient space in front of the sheathing for the veneer of face brick. The studs are then sheathed as for the usual frame building and covered with building paper, held in place with 2” × 1” or 1” × 5/8” furring strips, laid on vertically or horizontally over each lap of paper and once between. The face brick, set one inch from the sheathing, are laid up, so far as the outer bond is concerned, in the same manner as for facing the solid masonry wall, and are fastened to the framework by metal ties spaced horizontally about on every stud and vertically every four or five courses (Fig. 33).
Bonding Ties
These ties are of two kinds, either corrugated metal strips with one end nailed to the sheathing and the other laid in the bed joints, or thirty-penny wire nails which must be spaced with the studs into which they are driven through the sheathing, so as to leave a projection sufficient to extend about one inch into the bed joints of the brickwork.
The last method is recommended as the most substantial and permanent, but care should be taken that the nails be driven with a slant into the wood frame at a point somewhat above the brick so that when tapped by a hammer they may be bent down to the level of the joint (Fig. 34). If they are driven in at the exact level of the brick, they will, when bent down, push the brick out of alignment.
Sills and Lintels
Brick window sills with this type of construction are the same as for the solid masonry wall, except that the inner ends of the brick must be cut to fit against the sheathing. The window and door frames are set in place as in frame construction. While the brickwork over openings may be carried on arches, steel angles are almost universally used for this purpose.
The brick porches should have the porch walls and piers of solid brickwork faced on both sides, with bond pattern or ornamentation following, in the main, the design of the house walls.
Chimney construction for the veneer house is the same as for the brick house, except that care should be taken in setting outside chimneys clear of the sheathing, so as not to cut into the frame construction.
Veneering Old Frame Structures
Old House Made New
It often occurs that a frame house is not kept in repair and depreciates to such an extent that the expenditure for necessary painting and repairs to restore it would amount to an unwarranted figure. Or, as in many cases, the frame house, though kept in fair condition by dint of frequent painting and repairs, is decidedly out of date, or lacks the “class” that surrounding buildings may have. This often applies also to the old spotted and stained stucco house. In either case, the owner suffers loss in the value of his investment. There is a simple way, however, to recover this loss and more than restore the value of his investment, and that is by veneering the house with an attractive face brick. The framing of the house is in all probability substantially sound, it is only the exterior that is dilapidated and outclassed. By veneering his house with a well-chosen face brick, laid in proper bond and mortar joint, the owner at a comparatively small expenditure has got what is to all intents and purposes a new house.
Paying Investments
In the first place, he has “painted” it once and for all with beautiful colors that will never come off, and he has eliminated all future paint and repair bills for the exterior where much of his cost of upkeep for the old frame house came. In the second place, he has a far more uniformly comfortable house with a very appreciable reduction of his coal bills, due to the solid, monolithic shell of brick covering the frame. Practical heating engineers engaged in installing heating apparatus calculate that in a moderate sized veneer house as compared with frame there is, during an average winter in the North, a saving of approximately 8 per cent on the coal bill.
Finally, he would have, so far as the community is concerned, or a possible future purchaser, an attractive modern face brick house, of which he may be proud as a place of residence, or which would be more profitable as a renting or selling property. The enhanced value of his property would be far beyond his expenditure.
Increasing Your Profits
Many contractors could comfortably increase their profits and keep busy through dull months by presenting the above facts to the owner whose old frame or stucco house needs repairs. Instead of giving him a staggering figure for repair work that is only temporary, he could be shown how, by investing a little more, he could greatly contribute to his personal satisfaction and substantially increase the value of his property. Veneering an old house, either frame or stucco, is no more difficult than veneering a new structure and is accomplished in much the same manner.
How It is Done
An eight-inch concrete footing should be placed against the outside of the existing foundation wall, extending from grade to below frost line and resting on good solid soil. The brick veneer, starting from this footing, is carried up with an inch air space between it and the old siding (which is not removed) and tied by driving thirty-penny nails through the siding or other finish into the sheathing and studs (Fig. 35).
The usual steel lintels are used over window and door openings. Where the veneer is to be carried over porches or other low additions, the siding immediately above the roof should be removed and a steel angle placed against the sheathing and securely attached to the studs by lag screws, so that no weight of the brickwork comes on the roof. See illustrations of work on page 16.
The brickwork is laid up to the door and window trim and a staff bead molding, in the corner formed by the brick, securely nailed to the old trim, making a tight joint (See Fig. 35). Similar mouldings should be placed at the underside of roofs, porch ceilings, and like places where the brick meets the old frame finish.
A very remunerative addition to his business may be made by the builder in veneering old frame or stucco store buildings. All that applies to the advantage of veneering the old frame house especially applies here. An attractive store front is one of the merchant’s best advertisements. It indicates that he is prosperous, and it draws customers who always prefer to deal with the successful merchant, and where the surroundings are pleasant. Show the merchant of your town the increased value of his property and the increased profits of his business made possible by a beautiful store front of face brick, and you will get more business yourself.
A New Face Brick Porch
Method of Construction
Sometimes the porch on a frame building is in need of a new floor, railing, and steps. Instead of rebuilding the frame porch which will need constant repair and painting, a new face brick porch with either a brick or wooden floor could be built which would not only end all repair bills but vastly improve the appearance of the house. This may be accomplished very easily. Remove the entire porch except the roof which should be held by temporary supports. After excavating to the necessary depth, build a common brick foundation to grade for the piers and wall of the porch. The piers should be the same dimensions as the brick piers above, and the connecting wall should be 8 inches thick. Above the grade this 8-inch wall should be finished with face brick on the outside, while above the porch floor it should be face brick on both sides; and, at the correct height, should have a coping of face brick laid on edge. The piers should be carried up to the porch cornice and may be finished with a course of brick on edge, projecting slightly, to match the coping on the porch wall, or in any other plain or ornamental fashion desired. Where the walls join the frame building they should be anchored with nails driven into the wall the same as already explained for brick veneer work.
While the cost of a new brick porch on an old house is moderate, it adds greatly to the appearance of the house and thus appreciably increases its market value.