German Menus on Sea and Land
The Germans claim that the custom of providing a written or printed menu, or Speisenkarte, originated in their country.
At a meeting of the Reichstag in Regensburg, in 1541, Count Hugo of Montfort noticed one day at a banquet that the host, Duke Heinrich von Braunschweig, had before him a Zettel, or slip of paper, which he glanced at now and then. Being questioned, the Duke replied that it was a list of the dishes that were to be served, made for him by the chef so that he might save his appetite for those which he liked best.
Whether true or not, the story gives the raison d’être for a menu at every table-d’hôte meal. It is related by Friedrich Baumann in his Meisterwerk der Speisen, a monumental work in two volumes, of over two thousand pages, to which brief reference has already been made. Baumann has been called the German Carême (who was “the Luther of the French cuisine”). To him cooking was not mere handwork; it was an art and a science; and in his work he not only enumerates and briefly describes the foods of all countries (for example, of fishes, and dishes made thereof, there are about twenty-five hundred!), but treats of everything pertaining to the growing, cooking, and serving of victuals with true German thoroughness and with hundreds of those footnotes which are accepted in that country as the best evidence of scholarship.
Of all the German cities none is visited by more American and English tourists than Munich; and few of these fail to go and see the Court Brewery, even though they may not wish to try the beer—the best in the world. You may eat at the Hofbräuhaus without drinking anything, though you will be stared at as a freak. There are several large dining-rooms and the bill of fare is large, varied, and thoroughly German. Look at the soups, for instance: bouillon with egg, bread soup, noodle soup with or without a large chunk of boiled chicken, which adds sixteen cents to the price, liver-noodle soup, and brain soup. All are nutritious and tasty and cost only four or five cents a big plate. The fishes offered on this particular day in September are carp, pike, sand-eel from the Danube, and perch-pike. These cost from about 27 to 32 cents a generous portion. Ochsenfleisch—boiled beef—is always in great demand and is usually juicy and well-flavored. Without vegetables it costs only 12 cents a plate. Five different cuts of veal open the list of roasts, and the same price is charged for them—17 cents—though in other restaurants the kidney piece often costs a few cents more. Pork is two cents and a half higher, while chicken, goose, and pigeon may rise to the dizzy heights of 32 cents a plate.
Among the day’s ready dishes—Fertige Speisen—we note haunch of venison at 35 cents and leg of venison for five cents less. Half a partridge is listed at 24 cents, and the same charge is made for a quarter of a wild duck. There is of course a Sauerbraten—a sort of bœuf à la mode with a palatable sour sauce—and you may choose bœuf braisé, or Greek steak, or various mutton dishes, smoked meats, and so on, the prices for these being about 22 to 24 cents, including a vegetable: cabbage, potatoes, beans, or rice, noodles, dumplings (Bavarian liver-dumplings—Leberknödel—are fine!) or macaroni with minced ham, which ought to be on every table in every country at least two or three times a week.
The roasts and fries to order include, of course, the Wiener Schnitzel (savory when you have German or Austrian veal), the Paprikaschnitzel and various other cuts from the calf or the ox. Kompotts are in Germany served with roasts as regularly as salads are in France; they are stewed fruits—apples, pears, apricots, cherries, and berries among which the Preisselbeere is most Teutonic and most delicious.
The Mehlspeisen on this particular menu are fewer in number and less racy of the soil than those you would find on a Viennese bill of fare. Besides the international omelette and the Italian macaroni there is only the German pancake and the Windnudel. Among the vegetables and salads are listed, rather out of place, the Spätzl, a variety of the noodles which are the German version of the Italian macaroni and other pastes, and which only a German knows how to cook to perfection. A glance at the twenty-two varieties of cold meats and appetizers and the dozen varieties of cheese brings to mind the international aspect of German gastronomy.
In the more expensive restaurants of Munich and other German cities the French influence is more obvious. I chose the menu of the Hofbräuhaus because of its thoroughly bourgeois and German aspect.
The largest restaurants in the world are in Berlin; one of them seats four thousand people. In the bourgeois places the food is usually less savory than in similar establishments in South Germany, but there is a larger proportion of the high and highest class resorts, with viands and prices almost, if not quite, on a level with those of Paris and London, which it is the ambition and intention of the Berliners ultimately to surpass in these respects as well as in the splendors of their hotels.
Breakfast.
Fruit
Oranges, Bananas, Grape Fruit, Grapes
Preserves
Honey, Strawberry Marmalade, Jams, Quince Jelly
Sweet Pickel Peaches, Scotch Marmalade
Coffee, Tea, etc.
Coffee, Coffeeïneless Coffee H. A. G., Cocoa, Chocolate
Ceylon Tea, Mixed Tea, Milk and Cream
Bread
Rolls, Milk and Butter Toast, Toast plain
Various Kinds of Cakes and Crackers
Cereals
Milk Rice, Oatmeal, Hominy, Force, Shredded Wheat, Grape Nuts
Eggs, Omelettes and Pancakes
Buckwheat, Hominy, Rice and Wheat Cakes,
Pancakes plain, with Apples or Cherries
Apricot or Currant Marmalade
Potato Pancakes,
Boiled Eggs, Poached Eggs, Baked Eggs
Fried Eggs plain, with Bacon or à la Tyrolienne
Scrambled Eggs plain, with Ham or à la Bavaroise
Omelette plain, aux fines Herbes or with Strawberries
Fish, Steaks, Chops etc.
Kippered Herrings, Haddock, Fish Croquettes, Sole, Salted Mackerels
Fillet Steak Westmoreland, Fillet of Veal Esterházy
Fillet Gulyàs with Mushrooms, German Beef Steak
Chicken Liver on the Spit with Piémontaise Rice
Calf’s Liver with Apples and Onions, Fried Calf’s Brains Sauce Rémoulade
Grill: Tenderloin Steak, Mutton Chops, Sirloinsteak, Lamb Kidneys,
English Ham, Frankfort Sausages
Potatoes
Boiled, Fried, Baked, Mashed Potatoes
Saratoga Chips, French Fried Potatoes, Lyonnaise Potatoes
Cold Dishes
Westphalian Ham, Smoked Bologna Sausages, Smoked Tongue
Potted Fieldfares with Truffles, Roast Beef, Chicken
Relishes
Eel in Jelly, Oil Sardines, Anchovies, Fillet of Herring in diverser Sauce
Cheese
Camembert, Herb, Imperial, Holland Cheese
Gabel-Frühstück—Luncheon
à la carte.
Vorspeisen
Salat de Boeuf Parisienne
Küken-Salat
Geräucherter Aal
Royans à la Bordelaise
Heringsfilet, Remouladensauce
Rollmops
Anchovis
Suppen
Hühner-Kraftbrühe in Tassen
Schottische Graupensuppe
Kartoffelsuppe mit Croutons
Fisch
Gerösteter Lachs, Anchovisbutter
Streifbarsch, Sauce Pluche
Eierspeisen
Omelett mit Schnittlauch
Spiegeleier Othello
Verlorene Eier Cardinal
Fleischspeisen und Geflügel
Küken in Curry und Reis
Kalbsleber mit Aepfeln und Zwiebeln Kartoffelmus
Zungenragout Financière, Fleurons
Entre-côtes à la Macédoine
Jungschweinskeule deutsche Art
Roastbeef au Jus
Bürgerliches Gericht
Klops à la Königsberg
Auf Bestellung (vom Grill 15 Min)
Hammelkoteletten, Beefsteak
Filetsteak, Rumpsteak
Gemüse und Kartoffeln
Brechspargel
Perlbohnen
Spaghetti italienische Art
Gekochter Reis
Französische und deutsche Bratkartoffeln
Kartoffelmus, Gebackene Kartoffeln
Salate
Kartoffelsalat, Achanaka-Salat
Kaltes Buffet
Lammrücken garniert
Galantine von Poularde, Sauce Cumberland
Chaud-froid von Reh mit Pilzen
Tournedos Jockey Art
Junge Ente in Aspik
Geräucherte Zunge
Gespicktes Kalbsfrikandeau, Roastbeef
Kaltes Geflügel
Geräucherter und gekochter Schinken
Kompott und Süßspeisen
Birnen
Blanc-manger mit Frchten
Schneebälle
Käse
Kräuter-, Schweizer-, Camembert-Käse
Frucht Kaffee
Hors d’Oeuvres
Salad de Boeuf Parisienne
Chicken Salad
Smoked Eel
Royans à la Bordelaise
Fillet of Herrings, Sauce Remoulade
Rolled Pickled Herrings
Anchovies
Soups
Chicken Broth in Cup
Scotch Barley Soup
Potato Soup with Croutons
Fish
Broiled Salmon, Anchovy Butter
Striped Bass, Sauce Pluche
Eggs
Omelet with Chive
Fried Eggs Othello
Poached Eggs Cardinal
Entrées, Roasts and Poultry
Curried Chicken with Rice
Calf’s-liver with Apples and Onions
Mashed Potatoes
Tongue Ragout Financière, Fleurons
Entre-côtes à la Macédoine
Leg of Pork, German Style
Roastbeef au Jus
Special Dish
Klops à la Koenigsberg
To Order (from the Grill 15 min.)
Mutton Chops, Beefsteak
Tenderloin Steak, Sirloin Steak
Vegetables and Potatoes
Cut Asparagus
String Beans
Spaghetti Italienne
Boiled Rice
French and German fried Potatoes
Mashed Potatoes, Baked Potatoes
Salads
Potato Salad, Salad Achanaka
Cold Cuts and Cold Dishes
Saddle of Lamb garnished
Galantine of Pullet, Sauce Cumberland
Chaud-froid of Venison, Mushrooms
Tournedos à la Jockey
Duckling in Aspic
Smoked Tongue
Larded Roast Veal, Roastbeef
Roast Chicken
Smoked and Boiled Ham
Compote and Desserts
Pears
Blanc-manger with Fruits
Cream Puffs
Cheese
Herb, Swiss, Camembert Cheese
Fruit Coffee
Table-stewards and stateroom-stewards will
take orders for dinner at any time during
the day.
Carte du jour.
Hors d’Oeuvres:
Hors d’oeuvre Varié
Caprice Sticks
Soups:
Consommé Grimaldi
Cream Soup à la d’Orléans
Fieldfare Soup Old Style
Fish:
Salmon Cutlets à la Count d’Artois
Sole Meunière
Turbot, Butter, Parsley
Entrées:
Fillet of Beef Renaissance
Lamb Chops, Sauce Périgueux
Stuffed Artichoke Bottoms
Croutons of Goose Liver Moderne (cold)
Broiled Sweetbread, Green Peas
Entrecôtes Jardinière
Leg of Lamb, Larded, Brussels Sprouts
Grill: (15-30 min.):
Mixed Grill consisting of:
Fillet Mignon, Lamb Chops
Kidney, Sausage, Tomato
Tenderloin Steak, Entrecôte, Sirloin Steak
Lamb Chops, Mutton Chops
Ready Dishes:
Prague Ham à la Fitz James
Poultry:
Cherbourg Poularde
Partridge
Vegetables:
Palm Marrow Bordelaise
Peas and Asparagus, Stew Corn
Boiled Rice
French and German fried Potatoes
Mashed Potatoes, Baked Potatoes
Compote:
Green Gages, Strawberries
Salads:
Lettuce Salad
Endive Salad
Sweets:
Strawberry Ice, Whipped Cream
Peaches à la Condé
Praline Ice Cream
Ice Napolitaine
Pastry
Cheese Fruit Coffee
A few Suggestions
I
Hors d’oeuvre Varié
Cream Soup à la d’Orléans
Sole Meunière
Lamb Chops, Sauce Périgueux
Stuffed Artichoke Bottoms
Partridge
Compote Salad
Strawberry Ice, Whipped Cream
II
Fieldfare Soup Old Style
Salmon Cutlets à la Count d’Artois
Fillet of Beef Renaissance
Croutons of Goose Liver Moderne (cold)
Cherbourg Poularde
Compote Salad
Palm Marrow Bordelaise
Peaches à la Condé
III. (Supper)
Caprice Sticks
Consommé Grimaldi
Turbot, Butter, Parsley
Leg of Lamb, Larded, Brussels Sprouts
Praline Ice Cream
Pastry
Another German ambition is to have the largest and most comfortable floating hotels. The newest Hamburg and Bremen steamers are indeed unsurpassed in any respect, and their cuisine is particularly good. The trans-Atlantic steamers have the great advantage of being able to buy in New York the best things American markets offer, and in the German ports not only the European delicatessen, but those which the sister boats bring from Oriental countries. I once gained eight pounds in as many days crossing the Big Pond on a German steamer; and can you wonder, in view of the abundance of the choicest viands offered as antidotes to the hunger-breeding sea air?
There are now on the largest steamers Ritz-Carlton restaurants for wealthy epicures; but you need not go to these for good food, as the sample menus for first-cabin breakfast, lunch, and dinner on the Kaiserin Auguste Victoria, herewith reproduced, indicate. He must be hard to please, indeed, who cannot find something on such menus to tempt his appetite—unless he is sea-sick.