V — Under Town, Seacombe, September — A Poor Man’s House by Stephen Reynolds

V Under Town, Seacombe, September

A fine tramp from Totnes—and such a welcome back! Jimmy met me three-quarters of a mile up the road, very much farther than he usually strays from the beach. “I thought as yu was coming this way ’bout now, Mister Ronals. Dad’s been out hooking an’ catched five dozen mackerel before breakfast. Mam’s sick. I be coming out wiv yu t’morrow morning. Dad couldn’t go out after breakfast, ’cause it come’d on to blow. I’ve ’schanged my pencil, what yu give’d me, for a knife wi’ two blades.” So anxious was he to take me in house that he scarcely allowed me time to go down to the Front and look at the sea and at the boats lying among a litter of nets and gear the length of the sunny beach.

Mrs Widger hastened to bring out the familiar big enamelled teapot, flung the cloth over the table and began to cut bread and butter. “Coo’h! tay!” exclaimed Jimmy. “That’s early, ’cause yu be come, Mister Ronals.”

“Be yu glad Mr Ronals ’s come back?” his mother asked.

THE CHILDREN

“Iss....”

“What for?” I asked jocularly.

“‘Cause yu gives us bananas—an’ pennies sometimes.”

“‘Sthat all yu’m glad for?” said Mrs Widger. “Pennies an’ bananas?”

“No vear!” said Jimmy; and he meant it.

All the while, Tommy (Jimmy’s younger brother, about five years old) was sitting up to table, looking at the jam-jar with one eye and at me with the other. He squints most comically, and is a more self-contained young person than Jimmy. Four of the children are at home; Bessie, Mabel, Jimmy and Tommy; George and the eldest girl are away. Bessie and Mabel, too, are out the greater part of the day, either at school, or else helping their aunts, or minding babies (poor little devils!), or running errands for the many relatives who live hereabout. Both of them are more featureless, show less of the family likeness, than the boys. One cannot so easily forecast their grown-up appearance. At times, during the day, they come in house with a rush, but say little, except to blurt out some (usually inaccurate) piece of news, or to tell their step-mother that: “Thic Jimmy’s out to baych—I see’d ’en—playin’ wi’ some boys, an’ he’s got his boots an’ stockings so wet as....”

“Jest let ’en show his face in here! He shan’t hae no tea! He shall go straight to bed!” shouts Mrs Widger, confident that hunger will eventually drive Jimmy into her clutches.

The two girls, in fact, do not seem to enter so fully as the boys into the life of the household, though they are always very ready to take up the responsibility of keeping the boys in order.

“Jimmy! Tommy—there! Mother, look at thic Jimmy! Mother, Tommy’s fingering they caakes!”

“I’ll gie thee such a one in a minute! Let ’lone.... Ther thee a’t, Mabel, doin’ jest the same, ’s if a gert maid like yu didn’t ought to know better.”

“Did ’ee ever hear the like o’it?” asks Tony. “Such a buzz! Shut up, will ’ee, or I’ll gie thee summut to buzz for! Wher’s thic stick?”

The children merely laugh at him.

TONY’S WEDDING

At supper to-night, Tony was talking about his second wedding and about his children, who, dead and alive, number twelve. “Iss, ’tis a round dozen, though I’d never ha’ thought it,” he said reckoning them up on his fingers. “Ther be six living an’ four up to the cementry, an’ two missing, like, what nobody didn’ know nort about, did they, Annie? Janie—that’s my first wife, afore this one,—her losted three boys when they was two year an’ ten months old, an’ one year an’ seven months, an’ nine months old. An’ her died herself when Mabel here was six months old, didn’ ’er, Annie? An’ yu’ve a-losted Rosie, an’ the ones what never appeared in public. Our last baby, after Tommy, wer two boys, twinses. One wer like George an’ one like Tommy most; one wer my child an’ t’other wer yours, Annie. Six on ’em dead! Aye, Tony’ve a see’d some trouble, I can tell ’ee, an’ he ain’t so old as what some on ’em be for their age, now, thru it all. But it du make a man’s head turn like.”

Mrs Widger’s gaze at him while he talked about the dead children was wonderful to see—wide-eyed, soft, unflinching—wifely and motherly at once.

“John,” Tony continued, speaking of his youngest brother who has only two children, “John du say as a man what’s got seven or eight childern be better off than a man what’s got on’y two, like he, ’cause he don’t spend so much on ’em. ’Tis rot, I say! Certainly, he du spend so much on each o’ his as us du on two o’ ours p’raps; but I reckon a hundred pounds has to be wrenched an’ hauled out o’ these yer ol’ rheumaticy arms o’ mine for each child as us rears up.”

“Yes—’t has—gude that,” said Mrs Widger.

“’Tisn’ that I don’ du it willingly. I be willing enough. But it du maake a man du more’n he’d hae to du otherwise, an’ it wears ’en out afore his time. Tony’s an ol’ man now, almost, after the rate, though he bain’t but forty or thereabout, an’ s’pose us has six or a dozen more come along, Annie....”

“Gude Lord! ’Twon’t be so bad as that, for sure. An’ if ’tis, can’t be helped. Us must make shift wi’ ’em.”

Then they went on to talk about their wedding. Best remembered, apparently, are the hot wedding breakfast (an innovation then in these parts), the Honiton lace that Mrs Widger’s mother made her, and the late arrival home from the village where they were married—a trick which procured them quietness, whilst depriving the people in the Square of an excitement they had stayed up half the night to witness. “When us come’d home, ’twas all so dark and quiet as a dead plaace, an’ the chil’ern asleep upstairs, an’ all,” said Tony.

“Yes, ’twer,” Mrs Widger broke in, her eyes brightening at the recollection of the successful trick. “But ’twer queer, like, wi’ the childern asleep upstairs what wer to be mine, an’ wasn’t. I did wonder to meself what I wer starting on. Howsbe-ever I wer fair maazed all thic day. I wasn’ ready when Tony drove out to where us lived, not I.”

“No-o-o! Her had her sleeves tucked up like ’s if her ’adn’t finished her housework. Her wern’t dressed nor nothin’ to ree-ceive me.”

“I didn’ know what I wer doing all thic day.”

LOVE-PLAY

“An’ the parson, I had to pay for he, an’ he give’d the money back to she ’cause her wer a nice li’I thing—bit skinny though. ’Twer a maazed muddle like. I ought to ha’ had thic money be rights.”

“G’out! But I did the ol’ parson up here. Us didn’ hae no banns put up to Seacombe. I told the clergyman to our home that Tony’d been livin’ there dree days, or dree weeks, or whatever ’twas, an’ he didn’ know no better. ’Twon’t be the first lie I’ve told, says I to meself n’eet [nor yet] the last. I saved thee thic money, Tony.”

“Ah, yu’m a saving dear, ben’ ’ee. Spends all my money.”

“Well for yu! I should like to know what yu’d do wi’ it if yu hadn’t had me to lay it out for ’ee.”

Tony did not wish to question that. The recollection of the wedding had put him in high spirits. He got up from his second supper (so long as food remains on the table he takes successive meals with intervals for conversation between them), and pirouetted round the table singing,

“Sweet Ev-eli-na, sweet Ev-eli-na!
My lo-ove for yu-u
Shall nev-ver, never die....”

He dragged Mrs Widger out of her chair, whisked her across the room. “There!” he said, setting her down flop. “‘En’t her a perty li’I dear!”

Once again, after another little supper, he got up and held Mrs Widger firmly by the chin, she kicking out at his shins the while. “Did ’ee ever see the like o’it? Eh? Fancy ol’ Tony marryin’ thic! Wouldn’ ’ee like a kiss o’it? I du dearly. Don’ I, Missis?”

“G’out!” says Mrs Widger, speaking furiously, but smiling affectionately. “G’out, you fule! Yu’m mazed!”

Tony returned to his third supper quite seriously, only remarking: “I daresay yu thinks Tony a funny ol’ fule, don’ ’ee?”

BIRTH IN THE SQUARE

That, I did not. Indeed, I begin to think them peculiarly wise. There is the spontaneity of animals about their play, and a good deal of the unembarassed movements of animals—with something very human superadded. One reads often enough about the love-light in the eyes of lovers, and sometimes one catches sight of it. Either frank ridicule, or else great reverence, is the mood for witnessing so delicate and strong, so racial a thing. Yet this love-light, seen in the eyes of a man and wife who have been married ten years, and have settled down long ago to the humdrum of married life, seems to me a far finer manifestation of the hither mysteries, a far greater triumph. What freshness, what perpetual rejuvenation they must possess! The more one regards such a thing, the more magnificent and far-reaching it appears. No philosophical bulwark against trouble can compare with it. Such love ceases to be a matter for novels and selected moments and certain lusty ages; ceases to be exceptional. It is the greatest of those very great things, the commonplaces. Tony tells me that when he comes in at night, cold from fishing, Mrs Widger always turns over to the other side of the bed, leaving him a warm place to creep into. Mrs Widger says that no matter what time Tony comes in or gets up, he never fails to make, and take her up, a cup o’ tay. So does their love direct the prosaic details of living in one house together. I do not think I am wrong in fancying that it percolates right down through the household, and even contributes to the restfulness I feel here, spite of unorderly children and the strident voices. “Yu dang’d ol’ fule!” can mean so much. Here it appears to be an expression of almost limitless confidence.

Mrs Widger has put me this time into the front bedroom, which overlooks the Square and has, through the Gut, a narrow view of the sea.

Tony’s sister, who lives almost next door, is giving birth to a child this evening. I can see the light in her window—a brighter light than usual,—and the shadows passing across the yellow blind. Many other eyes are turned towards the window. There is a subdued chatter in the Square.

Little did I foresee what sleeping in the front bedroom means. Tony’s sister gave birth to a boy about ten o’clock. On hearing that everything was as it should be, I went to bed, but, alack! not to sleep. For the subdued chatter grew into an uproar which continued till fully midnight. All the women in the neighbourhood seemed to have come this way; and they meg-megged, and they laughed, and when their children awoke they shouted up at the windows from outside. I heard snatches of childbearing adventures, astonishing yarns, interspersed with hard commonsense, not to say cynicism—the cynicism of people who cannot afford to embroider much the bare facts of existence or to turn their attention far from the necessities of life. “Her’ll be weak,” one woman said, “an’ for a long time—never so strong as her was before. ’Tis always worse after each one you has, ’cepting the first, which is worst of all, I say. But there, her must take it as it comes....”

Sundry other bits of good practical philosophy I perforce listened to; and at last, when everybody had turned in (I imagined their pleasant lightheadedness as they snuggled under the bedclothes in the stuffy cottage rooms—the witticisms and echoes of laughter that were running through their heads); when, I say, everybody had turned in, an offended dog in the hotel yard began to howl.

If it were not that the window of the back bedroom is over the scullery, the ash-heap and the main drain, I would ask to move back there.

In Under Town a birth makes the stir that is due to such a stupendous event.

THE KITCHEN

The Widger’s kitchen is an extraordinary room—fit shrine for that household symbol, the big enamelled tin teapot. At the NW. corner is the door to the scullery and to the small walled-in garden which contains—in order of importance—flotsam and jetsam for firewood, old masts, spars and rudders, and some weedy, grub-eaten vegetables. At the top of the garden is a tumble-down cat-haunted linhay, crammed to its leaky roof with fishing gear. No doubt it is the presence everywhere of boat and fishing gear which gives such a singular unity to the whole place.

The kitchen is not a very light room: its low small-paned window is in the N. wall. Then, going round the room, the courting chair stands in the NE. corner, below some shelves laden with fancy china and souvenirs—and tackle. The kitchener, which opens out into quite a comforting fireplace, is let into the E. wall, and close beside it is the provision cupboard, so situated that the cockroaches, having ample food and warmth, shall wax fat and multiply. Next, behind a low dirty door in the S. wall, is the coalhole, then the high dresser, and then the door to the narrow front passage, beneath the ceiling of which are lodged masts, spars and sails. The W. wall of the kitchen is decorated with Tony’s Oddfellow ‘cistificate,’ with old almanacs and with a number of small pictures, all more or less askew.

There is an abundance of chairs, most of them with an old cushion on the seat, all of them more or less broken by the children’s racket. Over the pictures on the warm W. wall—against which, on the other side, the neighbour’s kitchener stands—is a line of clean underclothing, hung there to air. The dresser is littered with fishing lines as well as with dry provisions and its proper complement of odd pieces of china. Beneath the table and each of the larger chairs are boots and slippers in various stages of polish or decay. Every jug not in daily use, every pot and vase, and half the many drawers, contain lines, copper nails, sail-thimbles and needles, spare blocks and pulleys, rope ends and twine. But most characteristic of the kitchen (the household teapot excepted) are the navy-blue garments and jerseys, drying along the line and flung over chairs, together with innumerable photographs of Tony and all his kin, the greater number of them in seafaring rig.

Specially do I like the bluejacket photographs; magnificent men, some of them, though one strong fellow looks more than comical, seated amid the photographer’s rustic properties with a wreath of artificial fern leaves around him and a broadly smiling Jolly-Jack-Tar face protruding from the foliage. Some battleships, pitching and tossing in fearful photographers’ gales3 and one or two framed memorial cards complete the kitchen picture gallery.

It is a place of many smells which, however, form a not disagreeable blend.

An untidy room—yes. An undignified room—no. Kitchen; scullery (the scullery proper is cramped and its damp floor bad for the feet); eating room; sitting room; reception room; storeroom; treasure-house; and at times a wash-house,—it is an epitome of the household’s activities and a reflexion of the family’s world-wide seafaring. Devonshire is the sea county—at every port the Devonian dialect. It is probably the pictures and reminders of the broad world which, by contrast, make Mrs Tony’s kitchen so very homely.

A DUTCH AUCTION

Almost every evening, just now, Mrs Widger goes off to a Dutch auction of hardware and trinkets at the Market House. She usually brings home some small purchase, worth about half the money she has paid; but if she were to go to an entertainment at the Seacombe Hall she would be not nearly so well amused as by the auctioneer and the other housewives, and at the end of the evening she would have nothing whatever to show for her money. Besides, the children would never go off to bed quietly if they imagined that she was going to a real entertainment. As she did not return very early last night, Tony and I got our own supper—bread, cheese, a great deal of Worcester sauce, and a pint of mother-in-law [stout and bitter] from the Alexandra. Then we drew up to the fire and smoked. John, healthy and powerful fellow, had been arguing in the daytime on the beach, that if a youth cannot do a man’s work at seventeen, he never will. Tony disagreed. Twenty-five to thirty-five, he says, is a man’s prime for strength and endurance together. Nevertheless, he is sure that he often did more than a man’s work long before he was seventeen, which led him to talk about his boyhood, when Granfer and Gran Widger had frequently not enough food in the house for their many children to eat. “Us had to rough it when I wer a boy, I can tell ’ee,” says Tony. “‘Twer often bread an’ a scraape o’ fat an’ Get ’long out o’it!”

TONY’S DUTIES

At nine years old, Tony was put with old Cloade, the grocer, now dead; and by the time he was twelve, he was earning four shillings a week, not a penny of which he ever saw or had as ‘spending money’; for his mother used to go to the shop every Saturday night and lay out all poor Tony’s wages in groceries. The only pocket-money he ever received was a copper or two ‘thrown back’ from what he could earn by going to sea for mackerel early enough to return to work by half-past six in the morning. Besides running errands, he had to clean boots and knives and to scrub out and tidy up the bar, which in those days was attached to every Devon grocery. Then he could go home to breakfast. And if old Cloade was going up on land, shooting, Tony had to get up and wake him at half-past three and to cork bottles or something of that sort before the master started out for his day’s sport. And again, if Tony had fallen foul of any of the shop assistants during the day, had cheeked them perhaps, or stayed overlong at meals, then, waiting till closing time at eight or nine in the evening, they would send him a couple of miles inland, to the top of the hills, with a late parcel of groceries. His possible working day was from 3.30 a.m. to 10.0 p.m.

The chief part of his work, when he was not cleaning up or running errands, was the sorting of fruit and the cracking of sugar. Every nail of his fingers has come off more than once on account of the damage done them by the sugar-cracker. Better than any national event, he recollects the introduction of cube sugar. “When they tubs o’ ready-cracked sugar fust come’d down to Seacombe, ’twer thought a gert thing—an’ so ’twas.”

Nearly every year an attack of (sub-acute?) rheumatic fever gave him a painful holiday, during which he crawled about the crowded cottage at home on his hands and knees. The one advantage of his irregularly long hours was that, if work were slack, he could linger over his meals. It was the assistants who kept a sharp eye on his movements. Them he hated—and cheeked. “The more I done, the worse they treated me. An’ as I grow’d up an’ did often enough more’n a man’s work, so I got to know it. One day I stayed home more’n an hour to breakfast, an’ one on ’em asted me wer I’d a-been, an’ I said as I’d had me half-hour to breakfast, an’ he said as I’d had an hour an’ a half, an’ I told ‘en ’twern’t no business o’ his an’ dared ’en to so much as touch me or I’d knock his head in, which I could easily ha’ done—an’ there wer the master standin’ by! ’Fore I knowed, he gie’d me one under one yer wi’ one hand, an’ one under t’other yer wi’ t’other hand; knocked me half silly; an’ said if he had any more o’ my chake he’d send me going thereupon. ‘Iss, I said, ’an I will go, an’ if I can’t pick up a livin’ on the baych wi’ fishin’ (I ’adn’t no boats then, n’eet for years a’ter), an’ if I couldn’t pick up a livin’ wi’ fishin’, I’d go to sea. An’ I took an’ lef the shop, an’ went wi’out me pay due nor nort further about it.

“Well, I should think as I stayed away two or dree days, saying as, if I couldn’ live by the sea, I’d go off tu sea. By’m-by, ol’ Mr Cloade—I could al’ys get on all right wi’ he hisself—’twer they assistants.... Mr Cloade come’d down to baych an’ said as he’d rise me wages be two shillings, from four shillings to six a week. So I went back. But ‘twern’t for long, for I wer turned seventeen then, an’ strong, an’ I knowed that six shillin’s a week, every penny o’ which mother laid out in groceries—p’raps givin’ me dreepence for meself latterly—that wern’t no wage for me doing more’n a man’s work, early an’ laate, at everybody’s beck an’ call. ‘Twern’t vitty.

BRUISED ORANGES AND BRUISES

“It come’d soon a’ter.... I wer sorting oranges, an’ one o’ the assistants called like they al’ays did: ‘Widger, Widger! Widger! Yer, Widger!’ ‘Twer al’ays, ‘Widger! Widger!’ in thic show—blarsted row! ‘I wants ’ee to take thees yer parcel to Mr Brindley-Botton’s (what used to live to Southview House) in time for lunch. Hurry up!’”

Tony, in short, put a couple of the bruised oranges into his pocket, ran off, and delivered his parcel at Southview House. On the way back, he ate one of the oranges and, boyishly, threw the peel about outside Mr Brindley-Botton’s side gate. He heard someone shouting to him and—but without turning his head—he shouted “Hell about it!” airily back. Then, as it was the dinner hour, he loitered on the Green Patch to play marbles with some other lads, and to share the second bruised orange. On returning to Cloade’s:

“Whu did I see but Mr Brindley-Botton’s coachman wi’ a little packet in white paper. ’Twas thic orange peel, all neatly done up, an’ a li’I note saying as I’d a-been cheeky to him, which I hadn’t, not knowingly. Mr Cloade, he called me into his little office, asted me what I’d been doing, where I went, an’ where I got the oranges.

“‘Bought ‘em,’ says I.

“’Twas a lie, an’ I hadn’t no need for to tell it, seeing I was al’ays free to take a bruised orange or two when I wer sorting of ’em. On’y I wer frightened. ‘Where did you get them?’ he asked.

“‘Up to Mrs Ashford’s for a penny,’ says I.

“‘Did you?’

“‘Yes, sir,’ says I.

“‘Are you telling me a lie? I can find out, mind.’

“‘No, sir,’ I said.

“‘Be you sure you ain’t telling of a lie?’

“Then I broked down, an’ I said they was bruised ones what I’d a-took. Father, he wer working to Mr Cloade’s then, fishing being bad, an’ the master called he. He walloped me—walloped me with a rope’s end. An’ I swore as I’d never go back no more, an’ I didn’t. Every time Father tried to make me, I up an’ said as I’d go to sea.

OUT DRIFTING ALL NIGHT

“Ay! for all I’m a man now, I ’ouldn’t like to work like I did then—more’n a man’s work an’ less’n a boy’s pay, an’ hardly a penny for meself. I tells John he don’t know what ’tis to work like I did then. I’ouldn’t du it no more.”

But, with his father’s boat, Tony did work far harder—hooking mackerel at dawn, in with a catch and out to sea again, or up on land hawking them round; out drifting all night; crabbing, lobster-potting, shrimping,4 wrinkling,5 or taking out frights,6 wet and dry, rough and calm, day and night. “Aye, an’ I be suffering from it now. Thees yer bellyache what thins me every summer an’ wears a fellow out, don’t come from nothing but tearing about then. I wer al’ays on the tear, day an’ night, in from sea to meals an’ out again ’fore I’d had time to bolt down two mouthfuls. Often I wer so tired that Father’d hae to call me a dozen times afore I cude wake up, an’ then I’d cry, cry, if I wer ten minutes laate to work—when I had summut to du on land, that was. Half the day I wer more asleep than awake, wi’ bein’ out fishing all night. But I didn’ let ’em see it. Not I! Rather’n that, I’d go up to the closet an’ catch off there for five minutes, before they shude see I wern’t fit to du me work. An’ I never had nort o’ me own for years, for all I done. Whether I earned two pound, or thirty shillings, or nothing at all, I never had so much as a penny for pocket-money, to call me own. I had to take it all in house—aye! an’ tips too, when I got ’em. Father, he wern’t doing much then, an’ ther were seven younger’n me. That’s where my earnings went. An’ me, as did the work, was wearing Mother’s boots an’ Father’s jacket.”

When Tony was indisputably grown up, one half of what he earned went, according to custom, to the boat-owner, in this case his father, frequently had be thu to pay for repairs and new gear. That went on for years after he was married—‘hauling an’ rowing an’ slaving an’ pulling me guts out wi’t!’—until, in fact, the present Mrs Widger insisted on his buying boats of his own.

THE DEAD NOT WHOLLY SO

Our talk shifted to Tony’s first wife, who died (and Tony almost died too) as the result of the landlord’s taking up the drains, and leaving them open, in the height of a hot summer. Tony told me about her people and her native place, a fishing village along the coast. He showed me photographs of her, and a framed, pathetically ugly, imitation cameo memorial, which is getting very dirty now. I knew he loved her very much. He nearly went out of his mind when she died, leaving him with four young children. The untidy little kitchen, with its bright fire, its deep shadows and its white clothes hung along the line; Tony’s drooping figure, bent over the hearth in an old blue guernsey: the contrasting redness of his face, and the beam of light from a cracked lamp-shade falling across his wet, memory-stuck blue eyes.... The kitchen seemed full of the presence of the long-dead woman whom Tony was still grieving for in some underpart of his mind. “Iss, her was a nice woman,” he said, “a gude wife to me; a gude wife: I hadn’t no complaint to make against she.”

The one shabby sentence hit into me all his sorrow, that which remains and that which has sunk into time.

The Mrs Widger that is, returned from the Dutch auction with an elaborate badly-plated cruet. “Al’ays using up my saxpinces what I has to slave for,” said Tony.

“G’out! ’Tis jest what us wants.”

“You won’t never use it.”

“We’ll hae it out on thy birthday—there! Will that zatisfy thee?”

“Not afore then? I wer born at the end o’ the year, an’ that’s why I al’ays gets lef’ behind.”

“Not a day before thy birthday! What’ll yu be saying if I buys sauces to put in all they bottles?”

“Cut glass, is it?”

“No! What d’yu think?”

“What a woman ’tis! Gie yer Tony a kiss then.”

“G’out yu fule!”

The wise fool took a kiss. We had a second supper and hot grog. We were merry. But when I said Good night, I saw in Tony’s eyes a recognition that I had understood (so he felt, I think) some part of what he seldom, if ever, brings up now to talk about.

Only a yarn about a man’s first wife.... If so, why did I go to bed feeling I had been privileged beyond the ordinary? Wives die every day; worn out, most of them. There came into my mind’s eye with these thoughts a picture of the open sea; yet hardly a picture, for I was there in the midst of it. On the waves and low-lying clouds, and through the murk, was the glimmer of a light which, I felt, would make everything plain, did it but increase. For a moment it flickered up—and there, over the stormy sea, I saw death as a kindly illusion. I do not understand the wherefore of my little vision, nor why it made my heart give one curious great thump....

A cats’ courtship beneath my window broke it off.

THE “MOONDAISY”

Five or six years ago, when I was ill and left Seacombe, as I thought, for good, I did not relish selling the Moondaisy. I was too fond of her. So I gave her to the two men who had asked for the first and second refusals of her, and neither of whom possessed a small sailing boat. But I reckoned without those superficial beach jealousies which overlie the essential solidarity of the fishermen. Neither man used her much. Neither man looked after her. She was a bone of contention that each feared to gnaw. While the poor little craft lay on the beach, or in the gutter above the sea-wall, the mice ate holes into her old sail and her gear was distributed half-way over Under Town.

Granfer, however, had in his cottage an old dinghy sail that fits the Moondaisy. Her yard and boom were in his linhay, the sheet and downhaul in Tony’s. One oar, the tholepins, and the ballast bags have not yet been found. I bent on the sail, spliced the sheet to the boom; borrowed tholepins from Uncle Jake,7 ballast bags and a mackerel line with a very rusty hook from Tony, an oar from John—and, at last, put to sea.

The wind—westerly, off land—was too puffy for making the sheet fast. I held it with one hand and tried to fish with the other. In order not to stop the way of the boat and risk losing the lead on the sea-bottom, I wore her round to lew’ard, instead of tacking to wind’ard. A squall came down, the sail gybed quickly, and the boom slewed over with a jerk, just grazing the top of my head. Had that boom been a couple of inches lower, or my head an inch or two higher.... I should have been prevented from sailing the Moondaisy home, pending recovery from a bashed skull. Everything aboard that was loose, myself included, scuttled down to lew’ard with a horrid rattle. A malicious little gush of clear green water, just flecked with foam, spurted in over the gun’l amidships. I wondered whether I could have swum far with a cracked skull: the Moondaisy’s iron drop-keel would have sunk her, of course. Why I was fool enough to wear the boat round so carelessly, I don’t know.

Anyhow, I wound up the mackerel line; my catch, nil. Such an occurrence makes one very respectful towards the fisherman who singlehanded can sail his boat and manage five mackerel lines at once—one on the thwart to lew’ard and one to wind’ard; a bobber on the mizzen halyard and two bobbers on poles projecting from the boat. He must keep his hands on five lines, the tiller and the sheet; his eyes on the boat’s course, the sea, the weather and the luff of the sail. Probably I know rather more of the theory of sailing than he does; but, when a squall blackens the sea to wind’ard, whilst I am thinking whether to run into the wind or ease off the sheet; whilst by doing neither or both, I very nearly capsize, or else stop the boat’s way and lose my mackerel leads on the bottom—he, almost without thinking, does precisely what is needful, and another mackerel is hooked long before I should have brought the boat up into the wind again.

FISHERMEN’S SKILL

The greatest charm of sailing lies in this: that it is the art of making a boat move by dodging, by taking advantage of, a score of possible dangers. Except when running before the wind, it is the capsizing-power of the wind which propels the boat. The fisherman is an artist none the less because his skill seems partly inborn; because he sails his boat airily and carelessly, yet grimly—for life and the bread and cheese of it. The ‘poor fisherman’ for whom appeals to charity are made, as if he were a hardworking, chance-fed, picturesque but ignorant and helpless creature, is more than a trader, more than a skilled labourer in a factory. To a peculiar extent he sells himself as well as his skill and his goods. He lives contingently on his own life.

All that day the wind out in the Channel was blowing fresh from the sou’west, as we could see by the blackness of the horizon and the saw-edged sea-line beyond the outer headlands. During the afternoon, a ground-sea crept into the bay, silently rolling in like an unbidden unannounced guest who will not name his business. And when, at the turn of the tide, the breeze in-shore also backed to the sou’west, a busy lop was superposed on the long heaving swell.8 About half-past seven, the Widgers were gathered together near their boats.

“What time be it high tide?” asked Granfer. “‘Bout ten, en’ it?”

“Had us better haul the boats up over?” said Tony. “Tides be dead, en’t they?”

“No-o-o,” replied Uncle Jake. “They ’en making.”

“’Tis goin’ to blow, I tell ’ee,” said Granfer. “See how brassy the sun’s going down. Swell coming in too. Boats up be boats safe.”

“Hould yer bloody row,” said John. “What be talking ’bout? Plenty o’ time to haul up if the sea makes.”

“All very well for yu,” Tony protested, “living right up to Saltmeadow. If the sea urns up to the boats in the night yu won’t be down to lend a hand, no, not wi’ yer own boats. ’Tis us as lives to the beach what has to strain ourselves to bits hauling your boats up over so well as our own.”

“Let ’em bide, then!”

“Looks dirty, I say,” said Granfer. “Might jest so well haul up as bide here talking about it. I shan’t sleep till I knows the boats be all right.”

“Thee’t better lie awake then. An’t got no patience wi’ making such a buzz afore you wants tu.” With that, John shouldered his coat and strode homewards.

JOHN WIDGER

The rest of us pulled the boats up, John’s included, till their stems touched the sea-wall, and we placed the two sailing boats, John’s and Tony’s, close beside the steps, handy for hauling up over if need should be.

Tony and Granfer went in house. Uncle Jake watched them go with an ironical smile on his wrinkled old face. “Don’t like the looks o’ this yer lop on a ground-swell,” he said. “There! Did ’ee see how thic sea licked the baych? Let one o’ they lift yer boat.... My zenses! ’Tis all up wi’ it, an’ I should pick it up in bits, up ’long, for firewood.—Well, John’s gone home along....”

John is the youngest, handsomest and most powerfully built of the Widgers; the most independent, most brutal-tongued and most logical, though not, I fancy, the most perceptive. The inborn toughness, the family tendency to health and strength, which made fine men of the elder Widgers in spite of their youthful exposure and privations, has, in the case of John who underwent fewer hardships, resulted in the development, unimpeded, of a wonderful physique. “Never heard o’ John being tired,” says Uncle Jake.

Premature toil did not bend him; what he is the others had it in them to be, and by their labour helped to make him. Because his spirit has never been so buffeted, let alone broken, by hard times, he is also the most self-reliant. And like the majority of lucky men, he takes fate’s forbearance as his due and adds it to his own credit. Fair-haired, blue-eyed, his clean-shaven face deeply and clearly coloured; a combination of the Saxon bulldog type with the seafaring man’s alertness; his heavy yet lissome frame admirably half-revealed by the simplicity of navy-blue guernsey and trousers,—it is one of the sights of Seacombe to see him walk the length of the Front with his two small boys. He lacks, however, the gift of expressing himself, except when he is angry—and then in a torrent of thrashing words. He communicates his good-will by smiling all over his face with a tinge of mockery in his eyes and the bend of his long neck; whether mockery at oneself or at things in general is not evident. (It is mainly, I think, by smiling at one another that we remain the very good friends we are.) In any discussion, his “Do as yu’m minded then!” is his signal for making others do as he is minded. The advantages possessed by him—health, strength, clear-headedness, and good looks—he knows how to use, and that without scruple. He is never hustled by man or circumstance; seldom gives himself away; and seldom acknowledges an obligation. What one might reasonably expect him to do in return for help or even payment, he carelessly, deliberately, leaves undone, and performs instead some particularly nice action when it is least of all anticipated. His opinion is respected less because it is known, than because it isn’t known, and by playing in the outer world with a crack football team he adds to his prestige here. “What du John say?” is often asked when it doesn’t matter even what John thinks. Without gratitude for it, unconsciously perhaps, he exacts from others a sort of homage, which is certainly not rendered without protest. “There’s more’n one real lady as John could ha’ married if he’d a-been liked,” I heard Granfer say over his beer one day. “The way they used to get he to take ’em out bathing in a boat.... Put ’en under the starn-sheets, I s’pose—he-he-he-he-he! But they real ladies du tire o’ gen’lemen sometimes. Some on ’em had rather have a strong fellow like John. He married out o’ the likes o’ us, as ’twas. Her what he married used to eat wi’ the gen’leman’s family what her come’d yer with; sort o’ companion-nurse her was.”

A NICE DISTINCTION

Once, when the Moondaisy was mine, John charged me sixpence for putting me ashore from the steamer, after he had been earning money with my boat that very same day. There is no meanness in his face, and I wondered who had taught him so to distinguish between the borrowing of a private boat and the use of a craft that was on the beach for hire—a perfectly sound distinction. Probably it was some commercial-minded lodger or beach-chatterer, from whom he picked up the opinion that nowadays, to get on, you must run with the hare and hunt with the hounds—a precept which he quotes with cynical gusto but carries out only so far as suits his feelings. He aims at being businesslike, but the businesslike side of his character is the more superficial. Pride will not allow him to boggle over bargains. “Take it, or leave it,” is his way. Most up-to-date in what he does do, he is no pioneer, and follows a lead grudgingly when innovations are in question. Most progressive outwardly, he is the most conservative at heart. A reader of his daily paper, he speaks the broadest Devon of them all; scrupulously groomed after the modern way, and a smoker of cigarettes (he was laughed out of a pipe I’ve heard say), he still wears the old-fashioned seaman’s high-heeled shoes. Tobacco is his obvious, his humane, weakness. What his other weaknesses are, I don’t know. He strikes one as master of his fate, never yet wrecked, nor contemplating it. Did such a misfortune occur... who knows what would happen? He is now, in his youth, so full of strength.

About ten o’clock, Tony, who was snoozing in the courting chair (Mrs Widger had gone on to bed) woke up with a “How about they boats?” I went out to look.

THE HIGH TIDE WAVES

The sea was covered with that pallid darkness which comes over it when the moon is hidden behind low rain-clouds. Out of the darkness, the waves seemed to spring suddenly, without warning at one’s very feet. Every now and then, when a swell and a lop came in together, their combined steady force and quick energy swept right up the beach, rattling the pebbles round the sterns of the boats. For the better part of an hour I waited. Then, after a sea had thrown some shingle right into a boat, I called Tony.

“’Tis past high water, en’ it?” he said sleepily.

“Thee’t better come out an’ see for thyself!”

He dragged himself up and out. “’Tis al’ys like thees yer wi’ the likes o’ us. ’Tis a life o’it!”

“Aye,” he said, “the say’s goin’ down now sure ’nuff. Better git in house again. Raining is it?”

“God! Look out!”

A sea lifted Tony’s and John’s sailing boats; was sweeping them down the beach. We rushed, one to each boat, and hung on. Another sea swept the pebbles from under our feet—it felt as if the solid earth were giving way.

“Those was the high tide waves,” said Tony. “If us hadn’ a-come out both they boats ‘ould ha’ been losted. Yu’ve a-saved John his—all by chance. Aye! that’s like ’tis wi’ us, I tell thee. Yu never knows.—Be ’ee going to bed now?”

I stayed out a little while longer: the loss of boats means so much to men whose only capital they are. Just after Tony had gone in, the clouds parted and the moonlight burst with a sudden glory over the sea. In the moonglade, which reached from my feet to the far horizon, the waters heaved and curled, most silvery, as if they were alive. That was the wistful gentle sea from which, but a moment or two before, we had wrested back our property—that sea of little strivings within a large peace. I thought at the time that there was surely a God, and that as surely He was there. For which reason, I was glad, when I came in house, that Tony had gone on to bed.

This morning John asked me: “Whu’s been moving my boat?”

“The sea, last night.”

“Oh....”

“I’m going to make a salvage claim on your insurance company.”

“H’m?”

“Happened to be out here and hung on, or else she’d have been swept down the beach.”

“Did you?”

“That’s it—while yu were snug.”

“Have ’ee got a cigarette on yu?—Match?—Thank yu.”

MRS PINN

When I came into the kitchen early last evening, there was an old woman sitting bolt upright in the courting chair. At least, I came to the conclusion that she really was old after a moment or two’s watchfulness. Her flowered hat, her shape—though a little angular and stiff,—her gestures and her bright lively damson-coloured eyes were all youthful enough. But one could see that her inquiet hands, which were folded on her lap, had been worn by many a washing-day. Her skin, though wrinkled, was taut over the outstanding facial bones, as if the wrinkles might have opened out and have equalized the strain, had age not hardened them to brown cracks—and the tan of her complexion had old age’s lack of clearness. As so often happens when the teeth remain good in spite of receding gums, her mouth was tightly stretched semicircular-wise around them, and the lips had become a long, very long, expressionless line, shaded into prominence, as in a drawing, by a multitude of lines up and down, from chin and nose;—a Simian jaw, remindful of the Descent of Man. All the accumulated hand-to-mouth wisdom of generations of peasantry seemed to lurk behind the old woman’s quick eyes; to be defying one.

I was introduced to her—Mrs Pinn, Mrs Widger’s mother. She was bound to shake my proffered hand; she did it, half rising, with a comic mixture of respect and defiance; then sat back in the courting chair as if to intimate, ‘I knows how to keep meself to meself, I du!’

I went outdoors, leaving them to talk; helped Tony haul up the beach his lumpy fourteen-foot sailing boat, the Cock Robin, and returned with him to supper.

“Hullo, Gran Pinn!” he roared. “Yu here! Didn’ know I’d got a new mate for hauling up, did ’ee? Have her got ’ee yer drop o’ stout eet? Us two’ll take ’ee home if yu drinks tu much.”

“Oh yu....” screeched Mrs Pinn with facetious rage followed by a swift collapse into company manners again.

“Thees yer be my mother-in-law, sir.”

“Mr Whats-his-name knaws that, an’ I knaws yu got he staying with ’ee—there!”

“Well then, gie us some supper then.”

Mrs Pinn—’twas to be felt in the air—had been hearing all about me. Beside her glass of stout and ale, she looked a little less prim and defiant. But she was still on company manners. She sat delicately, on the extreme edge of a chair, by the side of, not facing, her plate of bread, cheese and pickles; approached them; mopped up, so to speak, a mouthful and a gulp; then receded into mere nodding propinquity. Her supper was a series of moppings-up. Me she kept much in her eye, and to my remarks ejaculated “Aw, my dear soul!” or “Did yu ever?” I said with feeble wit, in order to grease the conversation, that stout and bitter, being called mother-in-law, was just the thing for Mrs Pinn.

“Aw, my dear life!” she exclaimed, taking a mouthy sip. “What chake to be sure!”

It was Mrs Widger who, with a glint of amusement in her eyes, came tactfully to my rescue.

MY NIGHTCAP

About ten o’clock, Mrs Widger took down two glasses and the sugar basin, and set the conical broad-bottomed kettle further over the fire. Mrs Pinn glanced at the top shelf of the dresser where my whiskey bottle stands. Her bright eyes kept on returning to that spot. I should have liked to ask Mrs Pinn to take a glass, but knew I could not afford to let it be noised abroad that ‘there’s a young gen’leman to Tony Widger’s very free with his whiskey.’ I dared not make a precedent I should have to break; the breaking of which would give more disappointment than its non-creation. Equally well, I knew that it was no use going to bed without something to make me sleep.... I told Tony I would go out and look at the weather.

“Yu must ’scuse me ’companying of ’ee ’cause I got me butes off. My veet du ache!”

On my return, the bright eyes were still travelling to and fro, from bottle to glasses. I yawned, Tony yawned noisily, Mrs Widger capaciously. Mrs Pinn was herself infected. “’Tis time I was home.... Oh, Lor’!” she yawned.

She went; and when I asked Tony to share my customary nightcap, it was with ill-hidden glee that he replied as usual: “Had us better tu?”

His native politeness prevented him from saying anything, however, and Mrs Widger showed not a sign of having observed the little victory, so meanly necessary, so galling in every stage to the victor.

Tony declares that he will really and truly start mackerel hooking to-morrow morning—“if ’tis vitty,” and “if the drifters an’t catched nort,” and “if ’tis wuth it,” and “if he du.”

A creaking and shaking in the timbers of the old house, very early this morning, must have half awakened me; then there was a muffled rap on my door. “Be ’ee goin’ to git up?”

“Yes.... ’Course.... What time is it?”

The only answer was a pad-pad-pad down the stairs. I looked out over the bedclothes. The window, a grey patch barred with darker grey, was like a dim chilly ghost gazing at me from the opposite wall. By the saltiness of the damp air which blew across the room and by the grind of the shingle outside, I could tell that the wind was off sea. The sea itself was almost invisible—a swaying mistiness through which the white-horses rose and peeped at one, as if to say, “Come and share our frolic. Come and ride us.”

MACKEREL LINES

Tony, sleepy and sheepish in the eyes, was pattering about the kitchen in his stockings (odd ones), his pants and his light check shirt. The fire was contrary. We scraped out ashes; poked in more wood and paper. Soon a gush of comfortable steam made the lid of the kettle dance. The big blue tin teapot was washed out, filled and set on the hob. The cupboards and front room were searched for cake. Tony went upstairs with a cup o’ tay for the ol’ doman and came down with a roll of biscuits. (Mrs Widger takes the biscuits to bed with her as maiden ladies take the plate basket, and for much the same reason.)

Faint light was showing through the north window of the kitchen. “Coom on!” said Tony. “Time we was to sea.” He refilled the kettle, hunted out an old pair of trousers, rammed himself into a faded guernsey and picked up three mackerel lines9 from the dresser. He took some salted lasks from the brine-pot, blew out the lamp—and forth we went. After collecting together mast, sails and oars from where they were lying, strewn haphazard on the beach, we pushed and pulled the Cock Robin down to the water’s edge, and filled up the ballast-bags with our hands, like irritable, hasty children playing at shingle-pies. “A li’l bit farther down. Look out! Jump in. Get hold the oars,” commanded Tony. With a cussword or two (the oars had a horrid disposition to jump the thole-pins) we shoved and rowed off, shipping not more than a couple of buckets of water over the stern.

DAWN AT SEA

Tony scrambled aboard over the starboard bow, his trousers and boots dripping. “’Tis al’ays like that, putting off from thees yer damn’d ol’ baych. No won’er us gits the rhuematics.” He hung the rudder, loosed the mizzen. I stepped the mast, hoisted the jib and lug, and made fast halyards and sheets. Our undignified bobbing, our impatient wallowing on the water stopped short. The wind’s life entered into the craft. She bowed graciously to the waves. With a motion compounded of air and water, wings and a heaving, as if she were airily suspended over the sea, the Cock Robin settled to her course. Spray skatted gleefully over her bows and the wavelets made a gurgling music along the clinker-built strakes of her.

Tony put out the lines: tangled two of them, got in a tear, as he calls it, snapped the sid, bit the rusty hook off, spat out a shred of old bait, brought the boat’s head too far into the wind, cursed the flapping sail and cursed the tiller, grubbed in his pockets for a new hook, and made tiny knots with clumsy great fingers and his teeth. “An’t never got no gear like I used tu,” he complained, and then, standing upright, with the tiller between his legs and a line in each outstretched hand, he unbuttoned his face and broke into the merriest of smiles. “What du ’ee think o’ Tony then, getting in a tear fust start out? Do ’ee think he’s maazed—or obsolete? But we’ll catch ’em if they’m yer. Yu ought to go ‘long wi’ Uncle Jake. He’d tell ’ee summut—and the fish tu if they wasn’t biting proper!”

By the time the lines were out, the dun sou’westerly clouds all around had raised themselves like a vast down-hanging fringe, a tremendous curtain, ragged with inconceivable delicacy at the foot, between which, and the water-line, the peep o’ day stared blankly. The whitish light, which made the sea look deathly cold, was changed to a silvery sheen where the hidden cliffs stood. From immaterial shadows, looming over the surf-line, the cliffs themselves brightened to an insubstantial fabric, an airy vision, ruddily flushed; till, finally, ever becoming more earthy, they upreared themselves, high-ribbed and red, bush-crowned and splashed with green—our familiar, friendly cliffs, for each and every part of whom we have a name. The sun slid out from a parting of clouds in the east, warming the dour waves into playfulness.

’Twas all a wonder and a wild delight.

As I looked at Tony, while he glanced around with eyes that were at once curiously alert and dreamy, I saw that, in spite of use and habit, in spite of his taking no particular notice of what the sea and sky were like, except so far as they affected the sailing of the boat,—the dawn was creeping into him. Many such dawns have crept into him. They are a part of himself.

A TENDERHEART BY NATURE

“Look to your lew’ard line!” he cried, “they’m up for it!”

He hauled a mackerel aboard, and, catching hold of the shank of the hook, flicked the fish into the bottom of the boat with one and the same motion that flung the sid overboard again; and after it the lead. Wedging the mackerel’s head between his knees, he bent its body to a curve, scraped off the scales near its tail, and cut a fresh lask from the living fish. He is a tenderheart by nature, but now: “That’ll hae ’em!” he crowed.

The mackerel bit hotly at our new baits.10 Before the lines were properly out, in they had to come again. Flop-flop went the fish on the bottom-boards as we jerked them carelessly off the hooks. Every moment or two one of them would dance up and flip its tail wildly; beat on the bottom-boards a tattoo which spattered us with scales; then sink back among the glistening mass that was fast losing its beauty of colour, its opalescent pinks and steely blues, even as it died and stiffened.

Suddenly the fish stopped biting, perhaps because the risen sun was shining down into the water. The wind dropped without warning, as southerly winds will do in the early morning, if they don’t come on to blow a good deal harder. The Cock Robin wallowed again on the water. “We’m done!” said Tony. “Let’s get in out o’it in time for the early market. There ain’t no other boats out. Thees yer ought to fetch ’leven-pence the dizzen. We’ve made thees day gude in case nort else don’t turn up.”

While I rowed ashore, he struck sail, and threw the ballast overboard. Most pleasantly does that shingle ballast plop-rattle into the water when there is a catch of fish aboard. We ran in high upon a sea. Willing hands hauled the Cock Robin up the beach: we had fish to give away for help. The mackerel made elevenpence a dozen to Jemima Caley, the old squat fishwoman who wears a decayed sailor hat with a sprig of heather in it. “Yu don’ mean to say yu’ve a-catched all they lovely fish!” she said with a rheumy twinkle, in the hope of getting them for tenpence.

“‘Levenpence a dozen, Jemima!”

“Aw well then, yu must let I pay ’ee when I sold ’em. An’t got it now. Could ha’ gived ’ee tenpence down.”

With a mackerel stuck by the gills on the tip of each finger, I came in house. The children were being got ready for school. When I returned downstairs with some of the fishiness washed off, Mrs Widger was distributing the school bank-cards and Monday morning pennies. (By the time the children leave school, they will have saved thus, penny by penny, enough to provide them with a new rig-out for service—or Sunday wear.) There was a frizzling in the topsy-turvy little kitchen.

A DARING RASCAL

“Mam! Vish!”

“Mam! I wants some vish. Mam ‘Idger....”

“Yu shall hae some fish another time.”

“No-o-o!”

“Go on!”

“Well, jam zide plaate then.”

Jimmy’s finger was in the jampot.

“Yu daring rascal!” shrieks Mam Widger. “Get ‘long to school with ’ee! Yu’ll be late an’ I shall hae the ’spector round. Get ’long—and see what I’ll hae for ’ee when yu comes back.”

“Coo’h! Bulls’ eyes! Ay, mam? Good bye, Dad. Good bye, Mam. Bye, Mister Ronals. Gimme a penny will ’ee?”

“God damn the child—that ever I should say it—get ’long! I’ll hae a bull’s eye for ’ee. Now go on.”

A tramp of feet went out through the passage.

Mrs Widger shovelled the crisp mackerel from the frying-pan into our plates. Tony soused his with vinegar from an old whiskey bottle. We lingered over our tea till he said: “Must go out an’ clean they ther boats—the popples what they damn visitors’ children chucks in for to amuse theirselves, not troubling to think us got to pick every one on ’em out be hand, an’ looking daggers at ’ee when you trys to tell ’em o’it so polite as yu can. Ay, me—our work be never done.”

“No more ain’t mine!” snapped Mrs Widger, moving off to her washtub.

For the last two or three days there has been a large flat brown-paper parcel standing against the wall on the far side of my bed. I have wondered what it was.

This evening, after we had all finished tea, while Tony was puffing gingerly at a cigarette (he is nothing of a smoker) with his chair tilted back and a stockinged foot in Mrs Widger’s lap, Jimmy said, as Jimmy usually says: “Gie us another caake, Mam ‘Idger.” He laid a very grubby hand on the cakelets.

“Yu li’l devil!” shouted his mother. “Take yer hands off or I’ll gie ’ee such a one.... Yu’d eat an eat till yu busted, I believe; an yu’m that cawdy [finical] over what yu has gie’d ’ee....”

Tony took up the poker and made a feint at Jimmy, who jumped into the corner laughing loudly. With an amazing contrast in tone, Mrs Widger said quietly: “Wait a minute an’ see what I got to show ’ee, if yu’m gude.”

ROSIE’S PHOTOGRAPH

She went upstairs with that peculiar tread of hers—as if the feet were very tired but the rest of the body invincibly energetic,—and returned with the flat parcel. She undid the string, the children watching with greedy curiosity. She placed on the best-lighted chair an enlargement of a baby’s photograph, in a cheap frame, all complete. “There!” she said.

“What is ut?” asked Tony. “Why, ’tis li’l Rosie!”

“Wer did ’ee get ’en?” he continued more softly. “Yu an’t had ’en give’d ’ee?”

“Give’d me? No! Thic cheap-jack.... But ’tisn’ bad, is it?”

“What cheap-jack?”

“Why, thic man to the market-house—wer I got the cruet.”

“O-oh! I didn’ never see he.... What did ’ee pay ’en for thic then?”

“Never yu mind. ’Twasn’t none o’ yours what I paid. What do ’ee think o’it?”

“’Tisn’ bad—very nice,” remarked Tony, bending before the picture, examining it in all lights. “Iss; ’tisn’ bad by no means. Come yer, Jimmy an’ Tommy. Do ’ee know who that ther is?”

“Rosie!” whispered Jimmy.

“What was took up to cementry,” added Tommy in a brighter voice.

“Iss, ’tis our li’l Rosie to the life (mustn’ touch), jest like her was.”

A moment’s tension; then, “A surprise for ’ee, en’ it?” Mrs Widger enquired.

“My ol’ geyser!”

The children’s riot began again. “Our Rosie....” they were saying. Mam ‘Idger, slipping out of Tony’s grasp, carried the picture off to the front room. She was sometime gone.

Wordsworth’s We are Seven came into my mind:

“But they are dead; those two are dead!
Their spirits are in heaven!”
’Twas throwing words away; for still
The little maid would have her will,
And said, “Nay, we are seven!”

I knew, of course, intellectually, that the poem records more than a child’s mere fancy; but never before have I felt its truth, have I been caught up, so to speak, into the atmosphere of the wise, simple souls who are able to rob death of the worst of its sting by refusing to let the dead die altogether, even on earth. Rosie is dead and buried. I perceive also—I perceived, while Tony and the children stood round that picture—that Rosie is still here, in this house, hallowing it a little. The one statement is as much a fact as the other; but how much more delicately intangible, and perhaps how much truer, the second.

ROSIE’S DEATH

While we waited for Tony to come in to supper, Mrs Widger told me about Rosie’s death. “It must be awful,” she said, “to lose a child fo them as an’t got nor more. I know how I felt it when Rosie was took. Nothing would please me for months after but to go up to the cementry, to her little grave. ‘Most every evening I walked up after tea—didn’ feel as if I could go to bed an’ sleep wi’out. Tony had to fend for hisself if he wanted his supper early. Ther wasn’t no reason, but it did ease me, like, to go up there, an’ it heartened me a little for next day’s work. ’Twas a sort o’ habit, p’raps. What broke me of it was my bad illness. [When the twins, ‘what nobody didn’ know nort about,’ were born.] At first, I used to think o’ Rosie, when I were lyin’ alone upstairs, most ‘specially at night time if Tony wer out to sea an’ it come’d on to blow a bit. I used to think, if ort happened to Tony.... Our room to the top o’ the house, sways when it do blow. I don’t trouble me head about Tony when he’s to sea ordinary times—expects ’en when I sees ’en—but then I wer weak, like, an’ full o’ fancies. An’ after I got about again I wer much too weak to go to cementry: I used to faint every time I come’d downstairs. Howsbe-ever, I did come down again, an’ Tony used to go out and get me quinine wine and three-and-sixpenny port an’ all sorts o’ messes, to put me on me legs wi’out fainting. ’Twas thic illness as broke me o’ going up to Rosie’s grave.”

“You walk up now on Sunday evenings....” I hazarded, recollecting that then the children run wild for a couple of hours and come in tired and dirty to cry for their mam.

“Yes....” said Mrs Widger.

I saw that I had trespassed into one of the little solitary tracts of her life.

“One day,” she continued, backing the conversation with an imperfectly hidden effort, “when Dr Bayliss come to see me, Tony was asleep in the next bed, snoring under the clothes after a night to sea. Dr Bayliss didn’ say nort, ’cept he said: ‘Your husband’s a fisherman, isn’t he, Mrs Widger?’ But I saw his shoulders a-shaking as he went out the door, an’ that evening he sent me a bottle o’ port wine out o’ his own cellar, an’ it did me a power o’ gude. Tony—he was that ashamed o’ hisself, though I told ’en ’twasn’t nothing for a doctor to see ’en....”

FRANKNESS AND SMUT

At that moment Tony returned. He really was ashamed of the doctor finding him in bed, whether as a breach of manners or of propriety was not plain. Possibly the latter. He has an acute sense of decency, though its rules and regulations are not the same as those of the people he calls gentry. Our conversation here would hardly suit a drawing-room. Tony, if he comes in wet, thinks nothing of stripping down to his shirt. But, curiously enough, one of his chief complaints about the people who hire boats, is their occasionally unclean conversation. “The likes o’ us ’ould never think of saying what they du. Me, I didn’ know nort about half the things they say till I wer grow’d up an’ learnt it from listening to the likes o’ they. Yu’d hear bad language wi’ us an’ plain speaking, but never what some o’ they talks about when they got no one to hear ’em ’cept us they hires, an’ they thinks us don’t matter.” Tony is right, I believe. Most of the impropriety I used to hear at school, university, and in the smoking room, though often little but a reaction against silly conventions, a tilt against whited sepulchres,—was well-named smut. It was furtive, a distortion of life’s facts and inimical therefore to life. Impropriety here, on the other hand, is a recognition of life’s facts, an expression of life, a playful ebullition.

Tony, when he came in, enquired of Mam ‘Idger what she had done with the picture. “Did Rosie die in the summer?” I asked, remembering how the children will run out to the milkman with a dirty can unless a sharp eye is kept upon them, and how also the larder is fixed up over the main drain.

“Her died late in the autumn with convulsions from teething,” Mrs Widger replied. “An’ her didn’t ought to ha’ died then but for Dr Brown. When her was took ill, proper bad, I sent one of the maidens for Dr Bayliss, but he was out to the country for they didn’ know how long. So off I sends the maid to Dr Brown, an’ he sends back a message as he cuden’ attend Dr Bayliss’s patients wi’out Dr Bayliss asked him. Certainly ’twas late; but my blood jest boiled, an’ I took Rosie into Grannie’s an’ goes up myself. Rosie didn’ belong to no doctor. Her’d never had one. Howsbe-ever, Dr Brown says to me the same as he’d told the maid, that he cuden’ come. An’ then he says, ‘My good woman, I won’t come!’ Jest like that! My flare was up; I wer jest about to let fly my mind at ‘en—an’ I remembered Rosie lying in convulsions to Grannie’s, an’ flew out o’ his house like a mad thing. Rosie wer all but dead. Her was gone when Dr Bayliss come’d next morning.”

“Aye!” added Tony. “That wer it. Some doctors be kind, an’ some don’t trouble nort about the likes o’ us when they got visitors to run a’ter. I don’ say they treats the likes o’ us worse’n other people; I don’ know: oftentimes they’m so kind as can be; but when they don’t behave like they ought to, other people has the means to make ’em sorry for it, an’ us an’t. They knows that. Us can’t do nort an’ that’s the way o’it. Rosie didn’ never ought to ha’ died.”

“No-o-o!” said Mrs Widger.

One can see the tigress in most women, in every mother, if one waits long enough. I saw it in Mrs Widger then. If she ever has the whip-hand of Dr Brown....

This mackerel hooking, which is a two-man job though Tony could and would do it by himself were I not here, has most fortunately raised me out of the position of a mere lodger, a household excrescence, tolerated only for the sake of certain shillings a week. It has provided me with a niche of my own, which I occupy—at sea the mate on a mackerel hooker, on shore a loafer ‘ready to lend a hand,’ and in the house a sort of male Cinderella. It is far pleasanter, I find, to be a small wheel in the machine than to remain seated on a mound of pounds, shillings and pence—beflunkeyed, as if in a soulless hotel!

THE EARLY CUP O’ TAY

Tony cannot fill his spare time by reading: it makes his long-sighted eyes smart. On account of that, and of nights at sea, with rest taken when and where possible, he has developed an amazing talent for ‘putting it away’; that is, for sleeping. He can turn out perfectly well at any hour, if need be, but at ordinary times he is most content to follow somebody else’s first. I on my part, sleeping indifferently well, wake usually before dawn, and greatly dislike waiting for an early cup o’ tay.

About half-past four I jump out of bed, creep downstairs and chop wood. That warms me. Then with a barbaric glee, I scrape out the ashes, sending clouds of dust over the guernseys and boots that have been set near the fire to dry. No matter; being light and fire-dry, it will brush off the one and shake out of the other. People who never light fires at dawn can have no idea of the exhilaration to be obtained from a well-laid, crackling, flaming fire.

Tony appears at the door, half-dressed, yawning and stretching his arms on high. “Yu an’t been an’ made tay, have ’ee?” he says with delighted certainty. The cups are filled. He takes up Mam ‘Idger’s cup and returns with the paper roll of ‘Family Biscuits.’ We forage for tit-bits, feed standing, yawn again, and go out to ‘see what to make o’it.’

Unless the sea is broken by the wind, there is about it just before dawn a peculiar creeping clamminess. It seems but half awake, like ourselves. It has no welcome for us. “Can’t you wait,” it seems to say, “till I begin to sparkle?”

Tony looks out over. “Had us better tu?” he asks with a shiver.

“Why not?”

“Shove her down then. There’s macker out there!”

By the time the sun is rising (it never rises twice the same) south of the easternmost headland, Tony has worked himself into a tear over self-tangling lines, and has been laughed out of it again. We are perhaps a mile or two out, and if the mackerel are biting well, we are hauling them in, swiftly, silently, grimly; banging them off the hook; going Tsch! if they fall back into the sea; cutting baits from fish not dead. If, however, they are not on the feed, we sing blatant or romantic or sentimental songs (it is all one out there), and laugh with a hearty sea-loudness. And if the mackerel will not bite at all we invent a score of reasons and blame a dozen people and things. But there we are—ourselves, the sea, and the heavenly dawn—the sea heaving up to us, and ourselves ever heaving higher, up and over the lop. It exalts us with it. We hardly need to talk. A straight look in the face, a smile.... We are in the more immediate presence of one another. Did we lie to each other with our tongues, the greater part of our communications would yet be truth.

THE PRICE OF FISH

We sail or row home, turn the mackerel out on the beach, count them back into the box, wash the blood off them, and stoop low, turning them over and over, whilst we haggle for our price. The other day, with the exuberance of the sea still upon me, I slapped old Jemima Caley’s rusty shoulder and lo! she rose her price one penny.

“Damme!” she said, “I’ll gie ’ee ninepence a dozen if I has to go wi’ out me dinner for’t! They be fine fish.”

“Sweet fish, Jemima!”

“Lor’ bless ’ee, yes!”

But she hawked them at twopence-halfpenny or threepence a pair according to the customer. And now, her wry sly smile, peeping from underneath her battered hat-brim, meets me at every back-street corner.

Soap and water, the buzz of the children, their mother’s loud voice, and mackerel for breakfast.... It is all quite prosaic and perfectly commonplace, it is far from idyllic; yet it would need the touch of a poet to bring out the wonder, the mystery, of it all: to light up the door of the soul-house through which we pass to and fro, scarce knowing.

Tony comes in early to dinner after a morning’s frighting. His object is to get an hour or so for sleep before the visitors come out from their later lunch. Mam ‘Idger says we are lazy; that she ‘don’t gie way to it, she don’t!’ (She did a couple of days ago.) When the after-dinner tea is finished, Tony makes a start for ‘up over!’ Mrs Widger enquires if I have some writing to do—and asks also if I would like to be awakened before tea-time!

Never does sleep at night come so graciously as that afternoon snooze, while the sound of the sea and the busy noises of the square float gently in at the windows; float higher and higher; float right away. About half-past two, Tony goes down to take somebody out for a sail or to paint his boats. I frequently do not hear him.

Is there not more than one signification to the words “And I, if I be lifted up, will draw all men unto Me?” There are times when the mind is lifted up by a master-emotion, arising one hardly knows how, nor whither leading; a feeling that takes charge of one, as a big wave is said to take charge of a boat when it destroys steerageway; an emotion so powerful that it does but batten on all which might be expected to clash with it. These are the periods when day and night are enveloped in one large state of mind, and life ceases to be a collection of discrete, semi-related moods. These are the dawns of the soul, the spring seasons of the spirit. The world is created afresh.

Everything, and nothing, is prosaic. ’Tis all according. But it is startling indeed how suddenly sometimes the earth takes on a new wonderfulness, and Saint Prosaic a new halo. What, to put it in the plainest manner possible, am I doing here? Merely fishing and sailing on the cheap (not so very cheaply); roughing it—pigging it, as one would say—with people who are not my people and do not live as I have been accustomed to do. Yet, as I know well all the time, this change from one prosaic life to another has brought about a revelation which, like great music, sanctifies things, makes one thankful, and in a sense very humble; incapable of fitting speech, incapable of silence.

UNDER TOWN

Astonishment at, and zest in, these Under Town lives; the discovery of so much beauty hitherto unsuspected and, indeed, not to be caught sight of without exceptional opportunity, sets one watching and waiting in order to find out the real difference of their minds from the minds of us who have been through the educational mill; also to find out where and how they have the advantage of us. For I can feel rather than see, here, the presence of a wisdom that I know nothing about, not even by hearsay, and that I suspect to be largely the traditional wisdom of the folk, gained from contact with hard fact, slowly accumulated and handed on through centuries—the wisdom from which education cuts us off, which education teaches us to pooh-pooh.

Such wisdom is difficult to grasp; very shy. My chance of observing it lies precisely in this: that I am neither a sky-pilot, nor a district visitor, nor a reformer, nor a philanthropist, nor any sort of ‘worker,’ useful or impertinent; but simply a sponge to absorb and, so far as can be, an understander to sympathize. It is hard entirely to share another people’s life, to give oneself up to it, to be received into it. They know intuitively (their intuitions are extraordinarily acute) that one is thinking more than one gives voice to; putting two and two together; which keeps alive a lingering involuntary distrust and a certain amount, however little, of ill-grounded respectfulness. (Respectfulness is less a tribute to real or fancied superiority, than an armour to defend the poor man’s private life.) Besides which, these people are necessary to, or at least their intimacy is greatly desired by, myself, whereas their own life is complete and rounded without me. I am tangential merely. They owe me nothing; I owe them much. It is I who am the client, they the patrons.

CLASS DISTINCTIONS

We are told often enough nowadays that capital fattens on labour, naturally, instinctively, without much sense of wrong-doing, and has so fattened since the days when Laban tried to overreach Jacob. What we are not so often told is that the poor man not less instinctively looks upon the gen’leman as legitimate sport. ‘An ‘orrible lie’ between two poor people is fair play from a poor man to a wealthier, just as, for instance, the wealthy man considers himself at liberty to make speeches full of hypocritical untruth when he is seeking the suffrage of the free and independent electors or is trying to teach the poor man how to make himself more profitable to his employer. It is stupid, at present, to ignore the existence of class distinctions; though they do not perhaps operate over so large a segment of life as formerly, they still exist in ancient strength, notwithstanding the fashionable cant—lip-service only to democratic ideals—about the whole world kin. There is not one high wall, but two high walls between the classes and the masses, so-called, and that erected in self-defence by the exploited is the higher and more difficult to climb. On the one side is a disciplined, fortified Gibraltar, held by the gentry; then comes a singularly barren and unstable neutral zone; and on the other side is the vast chaotic mass. In Under Town, I notice, a gentleman is always gen’leman, a workman or tramp is man, but the fringers, the inhabitants of the neutral zone, are called persons. For example: “That man what used to work for the council is driving about the gen’leman as stays with Mrs Smith—the person what used to keep the greengrocery shop to the top of High Street afore her took the lodging house on East Cliff.” It is, in fact, strange how undemocratic the poor man is. (Not so strange when one realises that far from having everything to gain and nothing to lose by a levelling process, he has a deal to lose and his gains are problematical.) I am not sure that he doesn’t prefer to regard the gen’leman as another species of animal. Jimmy and Tommy have a name of their own for the little rock-cakes their mother cooks. They call them gentry-cakes because such morsels are fitted for the—as Jimmy and Tommy imagine—smaller mouths of ladies and gentlemen. The other afternoon Mabel told me that a boat she had found belonged not to a boy but to a gentry-boy. Some time ago I begged Tony not to sir me; threatened to punch his head if he did. It discomforted me to be belaboured with a title of respect which I could not reasonably claim from him. Rather I should sir him, for he is older and at least my equal in character; he has begotten healthy children for his country and he works hard ‘to raise ’em vitty.’ Against my book-knowledge he can set a whole stock of information and experience more directly derived from and bearing upon life. I don’t consider myself unfit to survive, but he is fitter, and up to the present has done more to justify his survival—which after all is the ultimate test of a man’s position in the race. At all events, he did cease sir-ing me except on ceremonial occasions. At ordinary times the detested word is unheard, but it is still: “Gude morning, sir!” “Gude night, sir!” And sometimes: “Your health, sir!” At that the matter must rest, I suppose, though the sir is a symbol of class difference, and to do away with the symbol is to weaken the difference.

THE WORD “LIKE”

But at the same time, I am lucky enough to possess certain advantages. I have, for instance, managed to preserve the ability to speak dialect in spite of all the efforts of my pastors and masters to make me talk the stereotyped, comparatively inexpressive compromise which goes by the name of King’s English. Tony is hard of hearing, catches the meaning of dialect far quicker than that of standard English, and I notice that the damn’d spot sir seldom blots our conversation when it is carried on in dialect. Finally there is the great problem of self-expression. There, at any rate, I am well to windward.

The cause of the uneducated man’s use of the word like is interesting. He makes a statement, uses an adjective, and—especially if the statement relates to his own feelings or to something unfamiliar—he tacks on the word like, spoken in a peculiarly explanatory tone of voice. What does the word mean there? Is it merely a habit, a ‘gyte,’ as Tony would say? And why the word like?

When a poet wishes to utter thoughts that are too unformulated, that lie too deep, for words—

Break, break, break,
On thy cold grey stones, O Sea!
And I would that my tongue could utter
The thoughts that arise in me—

he has recourse to simile and metaphor. Take, for example, the transience of human life, a subject on which at times we most of us have keen vague thoughts that, we imagine, would be so profound could our tongues but utter them.

Blake’s Thel is a symbol of the transience of life.

O life of this our Spring! why fades the lotus of the water?
Why fade these children of the Spring, born but to smile and fall?

“Thel, the transient maiden, is.... What is Thel?” says Blake, in effect. Thel cannot be described straightforwardly. “What then is Thel like?”

Ah! Thel is like a watery bow, and like a parting cloud,
Like a reflection in a glass, like shadows on the water,
Like dreams of infants, like a smile upon an infant’s face,
Like the dove’s voice, like transient day, like music in the air.

DIALECT

Shakespeare, in a corresponding difficulty, uses one convincing simile:

Like as the waves make towards the pebbled shore
So do our minutes hasten to their end;
Each changing place with that which goes before,
In sequent toil all forwards do contend.

Drummond of Hawthornden exclaims:

This Life, which seems so fair,.
Is like a bubble blown up in the air.
By sporting children’s breath....

Bacon speaks more boldly and concisely. He forsakes simile for metaphor, leaving the word like to be understood.

The World’s a bubble, and the Life of Man.
Less than a span....

Were Tony to try and express himself by the same means, he would say: “The world’s a bubble, like, and the life of man less than a span, like.”

Like, in fact, with the poor man as with the poet, connotes simile and metaphor. The poor man’s vocabulary, like the poet’s, is quite inadequate to express his thoughts. Both, in their several ways, are driven to the use of unhackneyed words and simile and metaphor; both use a language of great flexibility;11 for which reason we find that after the poet himself, the poor man speaks most poetically. Witness the beautiful description: “All to once the nor’easter springed out from the land, an’ afore us could down-haul the mainsail, the sea wer feather-white an’ skatting in over the bows.” New words are eagerly seized; hence the malapropisms and solecisms so frequently made fun of, without appreciation of their cause. Obsolete has come hereto from the Navy, through sons who are bluejackets. Now, when Tony wishes to sum up in one word the two facts that he is older and also less vigorous than formerly, he says: “Tony’s getting obsolete, like.” A soulless word, borrowed from official papers, has acquired for us a poetic wealth of meaning in which the pathos of the old ship, of declining years, and of Tony’s own ageing, are all present with one knows not what other suggestions besides. And when obsolete is fully domesticated here, the like will be struck off.

THOUGHTS AND MIND PICTURES

In short, every time Tony uses like, he is admitting, and explaining, that he has expressed himself as best he could, but inadequately notwithstanding. He has felt something more delicately, thought upon something more accurately, than he can possibly say. He is always pathetically eager to make himself plain, to be understood. One knows well that touching look in the eyes of a dog when, as we say, it all but speaks. Often have I seen that same look, still more intense, in Tony’s eyes, when he has become mazed with efforts to express himself, and I have wished that as with the dog, a pat, a small caress, could change the look into a joyfulness. But it is just because I am fond of him that I am able to feel with him and to a certain extent to divine his half-uttered thoughts; to take them up and return them to him clothed in more or less current English which, he knows, would convey them to a stranger, and which shows him more clearly than before what he really was thinking. That seems to be one of my chief functions here—thought-publisher. Evidently grateful, he talks and talks, usually while the remains of a meal lie scattered on the table. “Aye!” he says, at the end of a debauch of likes. “I don’ know what I du know. Tony’s a silly ol’ fule!”

He does not believe it; nor do I; for I am often struck with wonder at the thoughts and mind-pictures which we so curiously arrive at together.

The old feudal class-distinctions are fast breaking down. But are we arriving any nearer the democratic ideal of Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité? In place of the old distinctions, are we not setting up new distinctions, still more powerful to divide? There is to-day a greater social gulf fixed between the man who takes his morning tub and him who does not, than between the man of wealth or family and him who has neither. New-made and pink, the ‘gentleman’ arises daily from his circle of splashes, a masculine Venus from a foam of soap-suds. (About womenfolk we are neither so enquiring nor so particular.) For the cults of religion and pedigree we have substituted the cult of soap and water, and ‘the prominent physician of Harley Street’ is its high priest. Are you a reputed atheist? Poor man! doubtless God will enlighten you in His good time. Are you wicked? Well, well.... Have you made a fortune by forsaking the official Christian morality in favour of the commercial code? You can redeem all by endowing a hospital or university. But can they say of you that somehow or other you don’t look quite clean? Then you are damn’d!

The cottage where the heroine of the ‘nice’ book lives is always spotlessly clean. A foreigner who adopts the bath-habit, is said to be just like an Englishman. It is the highest praise he can earn, and will go further in English society than the best introductions.

CLEANLINESS

Cleanliness is our greatest class-symbol. In living with people who have been brought up to different ways of life, a consideration of cleanliness is forced upon one; for nothing else rouses so instantaneously and violently the latent snobbery that one would fain be rid of. Religiously, politically, we are men and brothers all. Yet still—there are men we simply cannot treat as brothers. By what term of contempt (in order to justify our unbrotherliness) can we call them? Not poor men; for we have Poor but honest too firmly fixed in our minds, and we would all like a colonial rich rough diamond of an uncle to appear suddenly in our family circle. Hardly men of no family; for men of no family are received at court. Not workmen; for behold the Carlylese and Smilesian dignity of labour! Not the masses; for the masses are supposed to be our rulers. What then can we call these people with whom we really cannot associate on equal terms? Why, call them The Great Unwashed. O felicitous phrase! O salve of the conscience! That is the unpardonable social sin. At the bottom of our social ladder is a dirty shirt; at the top is fixed not laurels, but a tub! The bathroom is the inmost, the strongest fortress of our English snobbery.

Cleanliness as a subject of discussion is, curiously enough, considered rather more improper than disease. Yet it has to be faced, and that resolutely, if we would approach, and approaching, understand, the majority of our fellow-creatures.

Chemically all dirt is clean. Just as the foods and drinks of a good dinner, if mixed up together on a dish, would produce a filthy mess, so conversely, if we could separate any form of dirt into the pure solid, liquid and volatile chemical compounds of which it is composed, into pretty crystals, liquids and gases, exhibited in the scientific manner on spotless watch-glasses and in thrice-washed test-tubes,—we might indeed say that some of these chemicals had an evil odour, but we could not pronounce them unclean. Prepared in a laboratory, the sulphuretted hydrogen gas which makes the addled egg our national political weapon, is a quite cleanly preparation. Dirt is merely an unhappy mixture of clean substances. The housewife is nearest a scientific view of the matter when she distinguishes between ‘clean dirt’ and ‘dirty dirt,’ and does not mind handling coal, for instance, because, being clean dirt, it will not harm her. Cleanliness is a process by which we keep noxious microbes and certain poisons outside our systems or in their proper places within. (It has been shown that we cannot live without microbes, and that there exist normally in some parts of the body substances which are powerfully poisonous to other parts.) Rational cleanliness makes for health, for survival. It is, ultimately, an expression of the Will to Live.

DIRT

Far, however, from being rational, our notions on cleanliness are in the highest degree superficial. We make a great fuss over a flea; hardly mention it in polite company; but we tolerate the dirty housefly on all our food. We eat high game which our cook’s more natural taste calls muck. We are only just beginning to realise the indescribable filthiness of carious teeth, than which anything more unclean, a few diseases excepted, can scarcely be found in slums. Even in this great age of pseudo-scientific enlightenment, we do not have a carious tooth extracted until it aches, though we have a front tooth cleaned and stopped on the first appearance of decay. What the eye doth not see.... Yet we presume to judge men by their deviation from our conventional standards of cleanliness.

My lady goes to the doctor for her headaches and crises de nerfs. “Dyspepsia and autotoxæmia,” says the doctor. “Try such-and-such a diet for a month, then go to Aix-les-Bains.” But how would my lady be ashamed did he tell her plainly: “Madam, though I observe that you bathe frequently, your cleanliness, like your beauty, is only skin-deep. You are fair without and foul within. Your alimentary canal is overloaded and your blood is so unclean that it has poisoned your nervous system. Eat less, take more exercise and drink plenty—of water. Try to be as clean as your gardener.” It has been remarked that the labourer who sweats at his work is, in reality, far cleaner than the bathing sedentary man, for the labourer has a daily sweat-bath, whereas the other only washes the outside of him: the cleanliness of the latter is skin-deep, and of the former blood-deep. Once stated, the fact is obvious. Moreover, the labourer has the additional advantage of being self-cleansing, whereas the sedentary man, for his inferior kind of cleanliness, requires a bath and all sorts of apparatus. No doubt, in time we shall learn to value both kinds of cleanliness, each at its worth. The Martians of fiction, when in a fair way to conquer the earth, succumbed before earthly microbes to which they were unaccustomed, against which they had not acquired immunity. If by antiseptics they could have kept these microbes at bay, they would have done well, but if, like mankind, they had possessed self-resistance against them (that is, if they had been self-cleansing) it would have been still better. There is no paradox in saying that, practically, it is very difficult for a healthy person to be genuinely unclean; and that ideally, in the surgeon’s eyes, we are, all, rich man and tramp, so unclean that there is little to choose between us, and every one of us requires a comprehensive scrubbing in an antiseptic tub.

DISADVANTAGES

But just as the habit of aiding nature by eating predigested food is bad, so too rigid a habit, too great a need of cleanliness is a positive disadvantage in the struggle for existence. Harry Stidston says fleas are loveable little creatures. I have had to learn to put up with one or two sometimes. Tommy makes his mother undress him in the middle of dinner to find one. In other words, Harry Stidston can do his work and live under conditions which would put me to flight, and I have a like advantage over Tommy. Again, Tony can do with an occasional bath and can eat his food with fishy hands, while I am a worm and no man without my daily bath, or at least a wash-over, and, except at sea, turn against the best of food if I can smell fish on my fingers. The advantage is Tony’s. It is good to be clean, but it is better to be able to be dirty.

The upshot is half-a-dozen—maybe unpleasant—truths, without recognition of which the latter-day citadel of snobbery cannot be stormed, nor the poor man and his house appreciated at their worth; namely:—

1. Ideally: We are all so unclean that there is little to choose between us.

2. Scientifically: Cleanliness, as practised, is conventional and irrational.
3. Blood-cleanliness is better than skin-cleanliness.
4. To be self-cleansing is better than to be cleansed by outside agents.
5. It is hard for a healthy, active person to be really unclean.
6. Practically: The need of cleanliness is a weakness.

According to the orthodox standards, this house of Tony’s is by no means so clean as the rose-embowered cottage of romance. It was not hygienically built. The children gain health by grubbing about outside, then come in house and demonstrate their healthy appetite by grabbing. I could wish at times that they were a little more conscious of their noses. We cannot, try how we will, get wholly rid of fleas, because fleas flourish in beaches, boats and nets. There are several things here to turn one’s gorge, until prejudices are put aside and the matter regarded scientifically. For, as one may see, the effective cleanliness of this household strikes a subtle balance between more contending needs than can be fully traced out. If, for instance, Mrs Widger came down earlier and scrupulously swept the house, her temper would suffer later on in the day. If she did not sometimes ‘let things rip,’ and take leisure, her health, and with it the whole delicate organisation of the household, would go wrong. Of a morning, I observe she has neck-shadows. Horrid! Perhaps, but being a wise woman, pressed always for time, she postpones her proper wash until the dirty work is done. Were we to kill off the wauling cats which make such a mess of the garden, the neighbourhood would lose its best garbingers. Baked dinner is never so tasty as when the tin, hot from the oven, is placed upon a folded newspaper on the table. Tony and the children tear fish apart with their fingers. It does not look nice, but that is the reason why they never get bones in their throats, for, as a fish-eating instrument, sensitive fingers are much superior to cutlery and plate, and so on....

I used to think that I was pigging it here. Now I do not.12

JIMMY COMES HOOKING

The dawns are later now. We do not need to get up quite so early, and usually, just as we are drinking our cup o’ tay, we hear a pattering of naked feet on the staircase. Jimmy, the Dustman still in his eyes, appears at the door. He has an air of being about to do something important. He picks out his stockings and old grey suit from the corners where they were left to dry. He does not ask to have his boots laced up nor complain of their stiffness. Then with his coat exceedingly askew on his shoulders, he demands: “Tay! please.”

“What do yu want? Git up over to bed again.”

“I be comin’ hooking wiv yu.”

“Be ’ee? Yu’ll hae to hurry up then.”

When the sea is not too loppy nor the wind too cold, Jimmy goes with us. The soft-mouthed mackerel need hauling up clear of the gunwale with a long-armed swing, beyond Jimmy’s power to give, and therefore as a rule he is not at first allowed to have a line; for fish represent money and mackerel caught now will be eaten as bread and dripping in the winter. Jimmy sits huddled up on the lee side for’ard. He becomes paler, looks plaintively, and sighs a big sigh or two.

“What’s the matter, Jim-Jim? Do ’er feel leery?”

If Jimmy volunteers a remark, nothing is the matter. But if he merely answers “No-o-o!” he means yes, and in order to stave off sea-sickness he must be given a line.

EDUCATION EVILS

Then is Jimmy ‘proper all right.’ Then does he brighten up. “How many have us catched?” he asks. The sight of him fishing in the stern-sheets re-assures me as to his future, about which I am sometimes fearful, just as some men are depressed by a helpless baby because they foresee, imaginatively, the poor little creature’s life and all possible troubles before it. When I watch Jimmy in house, rather naughty perhaps, or when I hear Bessie, fresh from the twaddle that they put into her head at school, saying, “If Dad’d earn more money, mother, us could hae a shop an’ he could buy me a pi-anno;” or when, as I am out and about with the boats, a grubby small hand is suddenly slipped into mine and a joyful chirping voice says, “What be yu ’bout?”—then, and at a score of other times, I am fearful of what they may be led to do with Jimmy; fearful lest they may put the little chap to an inland trade where he is almost bound to become a lesser man than his father, be removed from the enlarging influence of the sea, and have it given him as the height of ambition to grow up a dram-drinking or psalm-smiting, Sunday-top-hatted tradesmen. Then I desire savagely to have the power of a God, not that I might direct his life—he can sail his own boat better than I,—but that I might keep the ring clear for him to fight in, and prevent foul play. What indeed would I not do to remove some of the guilt of us educated men and women who force our ideas on people without asking whether they need them, without caring how maimed, stultified and potent for evil the ideas become in process of transmission, without seeing that for the age-old wisdom of those whom we call the uneducated we are substituting a jerry-built knowledge—got from books—which we only half believe in ourselves? New lamps for old! The pity of it! The farce!

But when I watch Jimmy fishing, I grow confident that the sea has its grip on him; that it will drag him to itself as it dragged his father from the grocery store; that whatever happens, it will always be part of his life to keep trivialities, meannesses and education from quite closing in around him.

" THE FISHER FATHER AND CHILD "

The Fisher Father and Child

As I pulled the boat across a loppy sea—
The bumping and splashing boat,
With the sail flapping round my head,
And the pile of mackerel amidships ever growing larger and lovelier in the light—
And the sun rose behind the cliffs to eastward, and the sky became lemon-yellow
(A graciously coloured veil twixt the earth and all mystery beyond),
And the wavelets sparkled and darted like ten thousand fishes at play in the ambient dawn,—
It seemed that the sky and the sea and the earth gathered themselves together,
And became one vast kind eye, looking into the stern of the boat,
At the father and boy.

Navy-blue guernsey, and trousers stained by the sea, scarce hiding the ribbed muscles;

Tan-red face, the fresh blood showing through;

Blue eyes, all of a flash with fishing and the joy of hauling ’em in; now on the luff of the sail (out of habit, there being hardly a sail-full of air), now to wind’ard, and again smiling on the child;

Big pendulous russet hands, white in the palms from salt water, and splashed with scales—

Hands that seem implements rather, appearing strangely no part of the man, but something, like the child, that has grown away from him and has taken a life of its own—

Strong for a sixteen-foot sweep, delicate to handle the silken snood of a line—

A man that the winds and the spray have blown on, gnarled and bent to the sea’s own liking,

The Father!

And the boy—
Like delicate dawn to the sunset was the child to his father—
A sturdy slight little figure, as straight as the mast,
A grey and more gently coloured figure, glancing round with the father’s self-same gestures softened, and with childish trustful sea-blue eyes;
Pattering with naked feet on the stern-sheets, and hauling the fish with a wary cat-like motion....
O splendid and beautiful pair!
O man of the sea! O child growing up to the sea!
You have given yourselves to the waters, and the waters have given of their spirit to you,
And I know when you speak that the sea is speaking through you,
And I know when I look at the sea, ’tis the likeness of your souls,
And I know that as I love you, I am loving also the sea—
O splendid and beautiful portions of the sea!

MRS FINN’S PROFESSIONS

Mrs Pinn has put aside her respectful defiance, has ceased addressing me as sir, and turns out to be a most jolly old woman, possessed of any amount of laughing camaraderie. She frankly explains the change thus: “I used to think yu was reeligious. Yu du look a bit like a passon [parson] sometimes. Do ’ee know ’t?—No, not now; be blow’d if yu du! Yu’m so wicked as the rest of ’em, I believe, but yu ben’t like they ol’ passons. I’ll ’llow yu’m better’n they.” My own recollection, however, runs back to the evening when she brought her damped-down washing round, and I turned the mangle for her. It is hardish work. ’Tis a wonder how she, an old woman, can do it when, if births are scarce, she is reduced to taking in washing for a week or two. Tony calls her the Tough Old Stick. Excellent name! I can picture her in her cottage up on land, bringing up her long family with much shouting, much hard common sense, some swearing and a deal of useful prejudice. Now, in her second youth—not second childhood—she is mainly a lace-worker and midwife. One night, Tony and myself broke into her cottage, locked the door behind us and helped ourselves to what supper we could find—which was pickled beetroot and raw eggs. Grannie Pinn climbed in upon us through the little window, and afterwards, to gain breath, she sat down to her lace pillow. Her dexterity was marvellous. She threw the bobbins about. I could not follow them with my eyes. She makes stock patterns only; refuses to be taught fresh patterns at her time of life, and cannot read them up for herself because she has never learned to read. The butterfly is her masterpiece. Working from early morning till evening’s gossip-time, she can earn no less than nine pennies a day. What the lace-selling shop makes out of her, the lace-selling shop does not state.

As a midwife, no doubt, she earns more. She must be full of tonic sayings. I am told that when her patients are dying, she takes away the pillow ‘so that they can die more proper like,’ and also in order that they may get the dying over quicker. What scenes the Tough Old Stick have must been present at! Yet she is spryer by far than those who keep clear of tragedy. When I ask her to tell me truly how many patients she has killed off in her professional career, her eyes glitter and she bursts out: “Aw, yu! What chake yu got, to be sure!”

She has her share of professional pride, but nevertheless I should like to know how many corpses she really has laid out for burial—and what she thought the while.

Usually she comes in just before supper-time:

“Ain’t yu gone yet? I know; yu got some mark or other to Seacombe. Come on! which o’ the young ladies is’t? Out wi’ it! Which on ’em is’t?” When I tell her that she is the best girl in Seacombe and that I won’t give her the chuck until she finds me a mark as youthful as herself and a hundred times as rich, she says:

“Then yu’m done! her won’t hae nort still, ’cause I an’t got nort, an’ a hundred times nort be nothing—he-he-he! I knaws thiccy.”

The jokes, ’tis true, are poor. But the Tough Old Stick’s enjoyment franks them all. You may fling a stinging fact in her face; tell her, if you like, that she could find plenty of marks for herself because, being old, she will have to die soon and then the poor fellow would be free again. “I know’t!” she says, and flings you back another stinging fact. Admirable Old Stick! She never flinches at a fact, howsoever grisly it be.

Above all, she revels in a little mild blasphemy; hardly blasphemy—imaginary details, say, about hell, in the manner of Mark Twain. “Aw, my dear soul!” she exclaims. “How yu du go on! Aw, my dear soul! Yu’m going to hell, sure ’nuff yu be!”

AGNOSTICISM

But her horror is only a pretence. She does not take such matters seriously. Indeed, few things have surprised me so much as the thoroughgoing agnosticism that prevails here. Uncle Jake is the religious member of the Widger family. For the rest, religion is the business of the clergy who are paid for it and of those who take it up as a hobby, including the impertinent persons who thrust hell-fire tracts upon the fisherfolk. “Us can’t ’spect to know nort about it,” says Tony. “’Tain’t no business o’ ours. May be as they says; may be not. It don’t matter, that I sees. ’Twill be all the same in a hunderd years’ time when we’m a-grinning up at the daisy roots.”

Nevertheless, he is not atheistical, nor even wholly fatalistic. When his first wife was lying dead, he saw her in a dream with one of her dead babies in her arms, and he is convinced that that meant something very spiritual, although what it meant he does not care to enquire. The agnosticism refers not so much to immortality or the existence of a God, as to the religions, the nature of the God, the divinity of Christ, and so on.

“Us don’ know nort about that, n’eet does anybody else, I believe, an’ all their education on’y muddles ’em when they comes to weigh up thic sort o’ thing.”

SPARROWISM

If the sparrows themselves had been acquainted with ‘Are not two sparrows sold for a farthing? and one of them shall not fall to the ground without your Father,’ their attitude towards religion might have resembled Tony’s—a mixture of trust and insouciance, neither of them driven to any logical conclusion and both tempered by fatalism. “When yu got to die, yu got tu,” says Tony, and it makes little difference to him whether the event has been decreed since the beginning of time, or whether it is to be decreed at some future date by a being so remote as God. The thing is, to accept the decree courageously.

The children go to Sunday School, of course; it is convenient to have them out of the way while Sunday’s dinner is being cooked and the afternoon snooze being taken. Besides, though the Sunday School teaching is a fearful hotch-potch of heaven, hell and self-interest, the tea-fights concerts and picnics connected with it are well worth going to. But the household religion remains a pure sparrowism, and an excellent creed it is for those of sufficient faith and courage.

Of how the Sunday School teaching is translated by the children into terms of every day life, we had a fine example two or three weeks ago. Jimmy came home full of an idea that ‘if you don’ ast God to stop it, Satant ’ll have ’ee,’ and Mrs Widger asked him: “What’s the difference then between God an’ Satant?”

“Ther ain’t nort.”

“Yes, there is. What does God du?”

“God don’t do nort unless yu asks Him.”

“An’ what does Satant du?”

“Oh—I know!—Satant gets into yer ’art, an’ gives ’ee belly-ache an’ toothache.”

Not many days afterwards, Tommy was being sent to bed for getting his feet wet. “Yu daring rascal! I’ll knock yer head off if yu du it again. Yu’ll die, yu will! An’ what’ll yu du then?”

“Go to heaven, o’ course.”

“An’ what do you think they’ll say to ’ee there? Eh?”

Tommy was puzzled.

“You can ask ’em to send us better weather.” I suggested.

“Tell ’ee what I’ll do,” said Tommy with a prodigiously wise squint. “I’ll take up a buckle-strap to thiccy ol’ God, if ’er don’t send better weather, an’ then yu won’t none on ’ee get sent to bed for wet feet!”

At a corner near here, there is a very blank cottage wall, and in the centre of it a little window. Behind the closed window, all day and every day, sits an old woman at her lace pillow. Some portraits—Rembrandt’s especially—give one the impression that a shutter has suddenly been drawn aside; that behind the shutter we are allowed to watch for a moment or two a face so full of meaning as to be almost more than human. The same impression is given me by the old lace-maker in the window when I pass to and fro, and catch sight of her face so still, her hands so active, her bobbins so swift and, because of the intervening glass, so silent. How nervously the hands speed with the bobbins, how very deliberately with the pins that make the pattern! How hardly human it is!

One evening, however, the window was open, children stood round in a group, and I heard the small click of the bobbins through the still air. The children were laughing, delighted with the old woman’s swiftness. She that had been a picture, was become a living being.

No doubt, she is working at her lace pillow now. She has several mouths to feed. I wonder does she earn as much as Grannie Pinn?

CONGERING

This long time I have wished to go congering all night, but have been unable to do so for want of a mate. It is more than one man’s work to haul a boat up the beach in daytime, let alone the middle of the night or at early dawn. If the Moondaisy’s old crew was here....

Ah! those were days—when George and the Little Commodore and the Looby and myself used to row out with a swinging stroke at sundown to Elm-beech-tree13 and Conger Pool. The choosing of the mark; the careful heaving of the sling-stone; the blinn, skate, pollack, spider-crabs, and conger eels, we used to catch; the fights with the conger in the dark or by the light of matches or of an old lantern that blew out when it was most wanted; the absurd way the crew turned up their noses at my nice tomato sandwiches and gobbled down stringy corned beef; their quiet slumber round the stern seats and my solitary watch amidships over all the lines, and at the sea-fire trailing in the flood-tide; their crustiness when I awoke them to shift our mark and their jubilation when a whopper was to be gaffed; the utter peacefulness of the night after they had gone to sleep again; our merry row home and hearty beaching of the boat; the cup of hot tea.... It is all clean gone. George is in the Navy and the Little Commodore is under a glass box of waxen flowers up on land. Did I bring back a catch alone, perhaps the old boat would be stove in.

Tony, however, has been saying that, on the rough ground a mile or so out, good-sized conger can be caught by day. On Saturday, therefore, I collected gear from the Widger linhays, borrowed a painter and anchor, and, the wind being easterly, I luffed the Moondaisy out a mile and a half south-east. There I dropped anchor.

Tony had given me two mackerel for bait, one fresh and the other somewhat otherwise; that is to say it was merely fishmonger fresh—quite good enough for eating but hardly good enough for conger who, though they have a reputation for feeding on dead men, will only touch the freshest of bait. With the fresh mackerel I caught one large conger (it ripped in the sail a hole that took Mam Widger an hour to mend) and two dog-fish. Nothing at all would bite at the stale mackerel. The easterly sea was making a little and skatting in over the bows. Besides which, the Moondaisy began to drag her anchor. My hand to jaw-and-tail fight with the conger had made me a little unsteady; had made my muscles feel as if they might string up with cramp; which is not good for stepping a heavyish mast and sailing a boat. So I stepped the mast and set sail, to make sure, and ran homewards with the wind almost abeam.

We decided to save the conger for Sunday’s dinner.

Mrs Widger made a most savoury stew of it, and when Tony came in as usual, asking, “Be dinner ready, Missis?” she placed the stew on the table.

Tony’s face fell.

“Be this my dinner, Annie?”

“Iss, for sure.”

“Thees?”

HOT BAKE

“What d’yu think then?”

“Thees! Wer’s yer baked spuds?”

“Do’ ee gude to hae a change. Ther’s some cold taties to the larder if you likes to get ’em.”

“Thees! Why, I wish thees yer conger hadn’t never been catched!”

“G’out!—Now then, you childern....”

Tony picked over the fish, going Tsch! for every bone his fingers came across.

“Thee’t look so sulky as an ol’ cow,” said Mam Widger.

“Well, what do ’ee think? Thees yer.... Did ’ee ever see the like o’it?”

Presently it occurred to him to peep inside the oven. His face brightened. “I know’d her ‘ouldn’t du me out o’ me Sunday dinner. Bring it out, Missis. Sharp! Gie thiccy stuff to the cat. Baked spuds! What’s Sunday wi’out baake? ’Tain’t no day at all! I couldn’ ha’ put away an hour after thic.”

For the remainder of the meal, when Tony was not eating, he was singing; and several times he chucked Mam Widger under the chin, and she retorted: “G’out, yu cupboard-loving cat!”

This is the recipe for baked dinner:

Turn out the children and turn on the oven. Into the middle of a large baking tin place a saucer piled up with a mixture of herbs (mainly parsley), one sliced onion and breadcrumbs, the whole made sticky with a morsel of dripping. Round about the saucer put a layer of large peeled potatoes, and on top of all, the joint. Set the baking tin on the hob and into it pour just enough warm water to run over the rim of the saucer. Soon after the water boils, transfer the whole to a fairly quick oven. When the meat is brown outside, slow the oven down. Serve piping hot from the oven, placing the tin on a folded newspaper and the joint, if large, on a hot plate.

To dish up hot bake in the ordinary way would be to let the nature out of it. The smell is a wonderful blend, most hunger-provoking. True, the joint, unless pork or veal, is apt to be a little tough, but the taties are a delicious shiny brown, their soft insides soaked through and through with gravy. Bake is a meal in itself. Pudding thereafter is a work of supererogation—almost an impertinence.

Mrs Widger’s cookery, though sometimes a little greasy for one who does no great amount of manual labour and undergoes no excessive exposure, is far from bad.

FOOD

Food reformers; patrons of cookery schools where they try, happily in vain, to teach the pupils to prepare dishes no working man would adventure on; physical degenerates who fear that unless the working man imitates them, he will become as degenerate as they are, and quite unfit to do the world’s rough work—forget that whereas they have only one staple food, if that, namely bread, the poor man has several staple dishes which he likes so well that he is loth to touch any other.

One day we did have at my suggestion a rather fanciful supper. Tony tasted, ate, and cleared the dish. Then he asked: “An’t ’ee got nort to make a meal on, Missis? no cold meat nor spuds?” He believes in the theory that good digestion waits on appetite rather than on digestible or pre-digested foods; that the meal which makes a man’s mouth water is the best to eat; and that solid foods give solid strength. And if the same dish can make his mouth water nearly every day in the week, how much more fortunate is he than fickle gourmets!

When I first came here, I used periodically to run after the flesh-pots. I used to sneak off to tea at a confectioner’s. Now I seldom feed out of house—simply because I don’t want to. We start the day about sunrise with biscuits and a cup of tea which I make and take up myself. (Mam Widger and Tony look so jolly in bed, her indoor complexion and white nightgown beside his blue-check shirt and magnificently tanned face, that I’ve dubbed them ‘The Babes in the Wood.’) For breakfast, we have fried mackerel or herrings, when they are in season; otherwise various mixtures of tough bacon and perhaps eggs (children half an egg each) and bubble and squeak.14 Sometimes the children prefer kettle-broth,15 but they never fail to clamour for ‘jam zide plaate.’ Bake, hot or cold, and occasionally (mainly for me, I think) a plain pudding, or on highdays a pie, make up the dinner that is partaken of by all. But before the pudding is eaten, Tony and myself are already looking round to see that the kettle is on a hot part of the fire, and when the children are gone off to school, Mam Widger throws us out a cup o’ tay each, with now and then a newly baked gentry-cake. Tony, who would like meat or a fry of fish for tea, has usually to content himself with bread and butter. The children go off to bed with a biscuit or a small chunk of cheese, and we may eat the same with pickles, or else fried or boiled fish if there is any in the house.... Supper, in fact, is the meal of many inventions, including all sorts of crabs, little lobsters, and such unsaleable fish as dun-cow [dog-fish], conger, skate or weever, together with dree-hap’orth, or a pint, of stout and bitter from the Alexandra. Just before turning in, Tony and myself have a glass of hot grog.

DRINK

From such a list of our fare, it would seem as if we over-ate ourselves as consistently as the en pension visitors at the hotels. (Mrs Widger, who has done a good deal of waiting, frequently tells us how manfully the visitors endeavour to eat their money’s worth at the tables d’hôte). Tony’s appetite—his habit of pecking at the food after a meal is over and the way he, and the children too if they have the chance, mop up pickles and Worcester sauce—is a continual joy to me. We do not drink much alcohol. On the other hand, the children are curiously discouraged from drinking cold water. Skim milk, tea, stout, ale, or even very dilute spirit is considered better for them—a prejudice which dates probably from the days before a pure water supply. Since, however, I who am known to possess a contemptible digestion, have been seen to drink down several glasses of cold water daily, and to take no hurt, the ban on it has been more or less removed.

The above-mentioned goodies are distributed, it is true, over a good many days in the year, and I fancy that my being here drives up the scale of living somewhat. At all events, we do not go short. Waste on the one side, mainly arising from small eyes being bigger than small stomachs, is more than counterbalanced by a wonderful ability to swallow down gristle, rinds and hard bits without apparent harm. Granfer, indeed, says that he ‘wouldn’t gie a penny a pound for tender meat that don’t give ’ee summut to bite at.’ The children clamour always for ‘jam zide plaate.’ Without that or the promise of it, they often refuse to eat anything. They do not believe me when I tell them that they have more food than ever I did at their age; that I had to eat a piece of bread and a potato for each slice of meat; that jam and butter together was not thought good for me except on birthdays and Sundays. “G’out!” they say. “Ye lie!” Sometimes their mother is irritated into calling them ‘cawdy li’l devils.’ It does seem almost a pity that they have not had any of the discipline of starvation. The Yarty children who go half the day, and only too often whole days, on empty stomachs, are certainly as happy as ours: they never cry because dinner is not so good as they expect, and if we give them half a pie their earth is straightway heavenly. Tony thinks now and then how hard it will go with his children if the money runs short, as it has done and may easily do again. “I mind the time,” he says, “when I used to come in hungry and kneel down beside me mother wi’ me head across her lap, crying! Her crying too; mother ’cause her hadn’t got nort to eat in house, and me ’cause her didn’t get nort, and ’cause her cuden’t get nort, not even half an ounce o’ tay, not havin’ no money in house to get it with. An’ then I used to go out an’ try an’ earn something, twopence maybe, just to stay us on.”

And that it is which has helped to make Tony the man he is.

A SUDDEN STORM

Seldom does one catch the exact moment of an abrupt change in nature. Yesterday, however, I watched a wonderful thing—the oncoming of a sudden storm.

Uncle Jake had been holding forth on the beach. “Us ain’t had no equinoctial gales thees year, not proper like us used to. This season’s going to break up sudden and wi’ thunder, an’ when it du, look out! I’d rather be here now than out in the offing, for all the sea’s so calm. Ah!” pointing to a dinghy that was shoving off the beach, “they bwoys ‘ould laugh in me faace if I was to go an’ say, ‘Don’ go. ’Tisn’t fit.’ But I knows.”

I left him gazing seaward over the stern of his drifter, and walked up to the Western Cliffs. The air, scarcely a breath from the north-east, was oppressive in the extreme; very warm, too, for autumn. The sea was almost unruffled; the sky to westward magnificently heaped up with what Uncle Jake calls wool-packs. A fog crept over all the southern horizon, dimming with its misty approach the eastern headlands and making the sea like a dulled mirror. I felt, rather than heard, distant thunder.

The fog lifted. It hung low in the sky, a sulky blue cloud. Beneath it, the sea, still unruffled, was of a dense blue that, so it seemed, would have been black altogether but for its transparency and the refracted light within it.

Going on, I walked for some distance beneath a semi-arch of the wind-bowed lichenous thorns that grow upon the cliff-edge.

Without any warning—maybe there was a little hum in the air—a leafless bough, like a withered arm with its sinews ragged out, bent over across my path. The sea gulls screamed and screeched; they flocked out from the cliff-ledges, and with still wings they towered up into the sky. Every twig and leaf began to play a diabolic symphony. Where the hedge ended I was blown back upon my heels.—It was more than half a gale of wind from the south-east.

The horizon was become clear; jagged like a saw. Divergent strings, marvellously interlaced on the water, streamed in with the wind, broadened into ribands fluttering over green-grey patches. The whole sea trembled, as if life were being breathed into it. White spots, curling wavelets, dotted it; then broke abroad as white-horses in full mad landward career. The whistle in the grass rose louder and shriller; the boughs bent further and let fly their autumn foliage horizontally into the wind; the gulls screeched wildly and more wildly; the chafing of the surf below took possession of the air....

UNCLE JAKE ON FOOLS

I saw the dinghy put about and run for shore.

When I got back, Uncle Jake was still watching.

“Ah!” he said. “Ah! Ah! I don’t like they centre-keel boats wi’ bumes [booms]. They’m all right for fine weather, but.... Ah! They’m goin’ to gybe if they ain’t careful. There! Did ’ee see? Why don’t they ease their sheet off more? If the wind catches thic sail the wrong side.... Did ’ee see that? Thic bume was all but coming over. Gybe, gybe, yu fules! Yu’m capsized if yu du, wi’ thic heavy bume. Look’se! Have ’em got their drop-keel up, I wonder? Not they! They thinks that’s the same as extra ballast. ’Twon’t make no difference if a sea takes charge of ’em. Ah! did ’ee see the leach o’ the sail flutter? Nearly over! Let ’em gybe, if they’m set on it. ’Twill upset they.—O-ho! They’m goin’ to haul down an’ row for it. Best thing the likes o’ they can du. They calls me an ol’ fule for joggin’ along in my ol’ craft while they has drop-keels and bumes, all the latest. I’ve a-know’d thees yer sea for fifty year an’ more, an’ I say, I tell thee, that two oars be better than two reefs any day. Le’but the seas take charge o’ one o’ they boats running afore the wind.... All up! They spins like a top, an’ gybes.... ’Tis all up! Howsbe-ever, they’m saafe now, if they don’t sheer broadside coming ashore. But they won’t learn their lesson; not they. They maakes fun o’ us as knows.

“There! the wind be softening now. I’ve a-know’d they thunder-puffs come down on ’ee like a hurricane. If they lasted long.... ’Tis blowin’ out in the Channel still. The horizon’s black—see? ’Twill back, an’ blow from the nor’east to-night, in here, but ’twill be east to south-east in the Channel, an’ wi’ thees flood tide runnin’ up against it, yu’ll see the say make!”

It did blow during the night; it must have been rough out in the Channel; then the wind dropped to a light breeze. But before ever Tony and myself were out of doors we heard the heave and thump of the long easterly swell.

We hauled the Cock Robin down to the water’s edge, put in five bags of ballast (“Doesn’t look ’s if it’s blow’d itself out,” said Tony) and a spare oar—and stood and looked.

“Be it wuth it?” he questioned.

“Not much wind now, is there?”

“Can the two o’us shove off in thees yer swell? Can ee see any o’ the other boats shoving down?”

“No....”

“There won’t be much frighting to-day, for sure. Must make the day gude if us can. Yer’s a calm. Jump in quick. Shove! Shove, casn’! Row. Lemme take an oar. Keep her head on. Pull—thic west’ard oar!”

PLUCK—

We were fairly afloat outside the surf-line, both of us very red in the face. We upsailed—and away. After a few minutes’ worry, deciding whether the mainsail and mizzen without the foresail would be enough, on a sea so much bigger than the wind, and looking for the Cock Robin’s chronic leak, the bouncing, tumbling and splashing, the heave up and the mighty rushes down, put us both in high spirits. We decided to hoist the foresail after all. “Let her bury her head if her wants to!”

Accordingly, I went for’ard to hook the foresail’s tack to the bumkin [short iron bowsprit]. The thimble was too small. As I sat on the bow and leaned out over, my hand all but dipped into the waves. A stream of water did once run up my sleeve. Looking round and seeing Tony smile, I yelled back aft: “What be smiling ’bout, Tony?” He replied: “I was a-gloryin’ in yer pluck.”

Which was very pleasant to hear—for a moment.

My position on the bow of the boat was absolutely safe, and I knew it. There was no risk at all, except of a bruise or a wetting. My toe was firmly hooked under the for’ard thwart, and short of my leg breaking, I could not have lost my hold. Besides, even had I fallen overboard, I could easily have swum round while Tony ‘bouted the boat. Tony was deceived. There was no pluck.

His words set me thinking, and I had to recognise, rather bitterly, that what I call pluck did not form a great part of my birthright. I find myself too apprehensive by nature; imagine horrid possibilities too keenly; and indeed would far rather hurt myself than think about doing so. I suppose I have a certain amount of courage, for I am usually successful in making myself do what I funk; but I like doing it none the better for that. And up to the present, I have not failed badly in tight corners. On the contrary, I find (like most nervy people) that actual danger, once arrived, is curiously exhilarating; that it makes one cooler and sharper, even happy. One has faced the worst in imagination, and the reality is play beside it.

AND COURAGE

In the dictionary, courage is defined as ‘The quality which enables men to meet danger without fear.’ Pluck is merely defined as courage. There is, or ought to be, an essential difference between the meaning of the two words. Courage is a premeditated matter, into which the will enters, whilst pluck is an unpremeditated expression of the personality, an innate quality which, so to speak, does not need to be set in operation by the will. Courage rises to the occasion; pluck is found ready for it. Would it not, therefore, be more correct to say that pluck is the quality which enables men to meet danger without fear: and that courage is the quality which enables men to meet danger with fear overcome? The greatest courage might go farther than the greatest pluck, but for occasions on which either can be used, pluck, the more spontaneous, is also the superior. Most of us are irregularly, erratically plucky; one man with horses, who funks the sea; another man at sea who is afraid of horses. One man who fears live fists may think nothing of watching by the dead. Another who stands up pluckily in a fight, refuses to go near a corpse. One of the pluckiest men I know ‘don’t like dogs.’ Pluck runs in streaks, but courage, to whatever degree a man possesses it, runs through him from top to bottom.

All the churches in the world may talk about sin and virtue, and make most admirable and subtle distinctions. We know very well in our hearts that pluck and courage are the great twin virtues, and that cowardice is the fundamental sin. The perfectly plucky and courageous man would never sin meanly; he would have no need to do so. He, and not the beefy brute or the intellectual paragon, would be Superman. The Christ, it often seems to me, keeps his hold on the world, and will keep it, not because he was God-man or man-God, not because he was born normally or abnormally, not because he redeemed mankind or didn’t, not because he provided a refuge for souls on their beam-ends, but because, of all the great historic and legendary figures, he is the one who convinces us that he was never afraid. In him, as we picture him, courage and pluck were the same thing, and perfect.

But the present point is, or points are: How many men whose pluck and courage I have admired so much, have deceived me as I deceived Tony? And what combination of pluck and courage is it which enables these fishermen to follow their constantly dangerous occupation with equable mind; which, indeed, enables so many working men to follow their dangerous trades? For it is one thing to approach danger by way of sport, and another to work for a livelihood in danger.

One’s analytics fail. It is, however, stupid merely to say, “Ah, they are inured to it. Familiarity has bred contempt.” Seafaring men realise the dangers of the sea a good deal better than anyone else. Familiarity with the sea does not breed contempt; the older the seaman the more careful he is. I have met old seamen, heroes in their day, whom one would almost call nervous on the water. And in any case, what a state of mind it is—to be inured to danger! to be on familiar terms with the possibility of death! to be able to flout, to play with, to live on, that which all men fear!

LUSCOMBE

I have been up the coast to have dinner and a chat with my old coastguard friend, Ned Luscombe, the man who taught me knots and splices during the night watches when I was a visitor here years ago. To go to his house now is very pleasant. For a long time after their first baby died on the day they entered a new house, before even the beds were up, it seemed as if Mrs Luscombe, a gentle, delicate woman, ‘with the deuce of a will of her own,’ Luscombe says, was going to decline and die too. The new baby, which was to have killed her, has put new life into her instead. They are touchingly proud of it, and very happy altogether. I do like to see married couples happy.

Luscombe himself is rather an extraordinary man; short, vivacious and solid; full of generous impulses, yet very well able to look after his own interests. It was he who dared the neighbourhood, and caused his wife to invite often to their house a crippled girl that had been raped by a scoundrel and then given the cold-shoulder by everyone else. Something of a sea-lawyer, he is one of the sharpest-brained—I don’t say deepest-thinking—men I have ever come across. Hardly educated at all as a boy, he races through books (he read my Cary’s Dante in a week), extracts the main gist of them, and is always learning some new thing, from shorthand to cooking, though he has no need to do much but behave himself for a pension. Almost harshly honest, he yet brings out with pride a large edition of Pope that he ‘nicked’ from the second-hand bookstall of a heathen Chinee at Singapore. That little episode will not make a very big blot, I imagine, on the Book of Judgment. If I remember aright, the British Navy was then occupied in protecting land or concessions that the nation itself had ‘nicked’ from the heathen.

Luscombe’s opinion on books, men and things, unless it has been borrowed from a newspaper, is always well worth hearing. His light of nature, by which he judges, is exceptionally powerful.

While we were smoking in his front room—furnished with a curious mixture of cheap English things and beautiful Eastern curios—a steward from one of the great liners came in. He began talking about the behaviour in a gale of a rich snobbish Jew and the behaviour of Jews generally on shipboard, and was inclined to take up the high, superior, patriotic attitude that Jews, not being Englishmen, were necessarily a nuisance in a storm. “Well,” said Luscombe, “all I know is, when a man tells me he’s never been afraid of anything anywhere, I tells him to his face, ‘You’m a damn’d liar!’ One day, in a pub at Plymouth, there was a man—a bluejacket too—boasting he’d never known what fear was, and I up and asked him, ‘Eh, chum? Did you say Never?’

“‘Never!’ he says. ‘Never in me life!’

“‘You’m a liar then,’ says I.

“‘We’ll see,’ says he—goodish-sized chap.

“‘You’m a bloody liar,’ says I, ‘and what’s more, you ain’t truthful.’

“So we squared up there and then, and the bung and his men hyked us out into the street and we was having our scrap out when the police came up. He ran! ‘Eh, Mr Liar!’ I yelled after him. ‘Did you say you was never afraid?’

“If I hadn’t wasted time doing that, I shouldn’t have got caught either. Very nearly landed me in chokey, that did. We was shipmates afterwards, me and that man, and very good friends. He’s a warrant officer now.”

LOWER DECK TO QUARTER-DECK

Thence the conversation passed naturally to promotion from the ranks. “I don’t believe in it, not as a general rule,” said Luscombe. “Officers ought to be officers, and men ought to be men, and a ship’s always more comfortable when both keep their places. Rankers as officers are apt to be bullies: that we all know jolly well. And besides that, the likes of us can’t keep our kecker up the same as gen’lemen, and therefore I says we ain’t fit for the quarter-deck, not yet awhile. Tisn’t that the lower deck ain’t so brave as the quarter-deck, because it is; only it can’t keep it up so long; it gets discouraged like, when ’tis a long job, specially when ’tis one of those waiting-an-doing-nothing jobs. We ain’t bred up to it, and our fathers wasn’t, and there’s no good to be got out of trying to pretend ’tisn’t so.”

We argued on. Luscombe would not yield an inch of his position. I can’t say offhand how far history bears him out, but I fancy that he is right to this extent: the lower deck has less flexibility of mind. It cannot view a depressing situation from so many sides at once. It is not, for instance, so quick to see the underlying humour of an emergency; not so ready to appreciate the so-called irony of fate. It cannot so easily turn round and laugh at itself and its predicament. So, though the lower deck’s courage may be fully as great as, or greater than, that of the upper deck, it is applied more constantly, with less mental diversion, and therefore it tires sooner. Hence, it may not be so effective.

The argument undoubtedly has a true bearing on that sort of promotion which, in the prevailing educational cant, is called giving every poor boy (by free education, scholarships and other lures) his chance of climbing to the top of the ladder—as if success in life were one great tall ladder instead of many ladders of varying builds and heights. In attempting to justify modern educational policy, its victims are egged on too fast into a field of commercial, intellectual, or emotional stress for which they lack the fundamental grit, or rather for which the fundamental grit they do possess is not adapted, nor can be adapted in a generation. Their spirit, fine and valuable for the old purpose perhaps, is not suited to the new. Therefore, of good workmen in posse we make bad clerks and shopmen in esse; of good clerks detestable little bureaucrats or mean-minded commercial men, and so on. Possible wives and mothers we turn into female creatures. And Merrie England swarms with makeshift folk and breakdowns.

Happily nature, heredity, sometimes intervenes, and at adolescence the sharp boy, the pride of the examination room, develops into quite a nice commonplace young man, like the missionaries’ nigger boy, and is saved, if he be not already committed to an unsuitable career. Otherwise, what mental deformity and slaughter! It was well said that education—what is called education—was the cruellest thing ever forced upon the poor. Mam Widger agrees. She knows her two boys are above the average in brains, but she says: “I’d far rather for them to fend for themselves an’ make gude fishermen like their father or gude sailors like their uncles, than for ’em to be forced on by somebody else to what they ain’t fitted for. ’Tis God helps them as helps themselves, they du reckon, but I can’t see as he helps them as is pushed.”

Uncle Jake allows us fine weather for the Regatta. “But when it du break up, after this yer logie [dull, hazy, calm] spell, look out!” he says. “Iss; look out!”

WINKLING

The day before yesterday, we were having a yarn together on the Front. “Must go t’morrow an’ pick Jemima Cayley some wrinkles [periwinkles],” he said. “I got a lot o’ work to do wi’ my taties up to my plat [allotment], but I promised Jemima her should hae ’em for Regatta, an’ her shall, if I lives to get ’em. Her says my wrinkles be twice so heavy as anybody else’s what her has—an’ so they be, proper gert gobbets! They t’other fellows don’ know where to go for ’em, but I du—master wrinkles, waiting there for Jake to pick ’em. On’y I ain’t goin’ to tell they beer-barrels where ’em be. Not I!—Wude yu like to come? Nobody goes where I goes.”

“Where’s that?”

“Ah! Down to Longo. Yu’ll see, if yu comes.”

“Haven’t yu got a mate for it then?”

UNCLE JAKE

“Mate! I’d rather go be myself than wi’ some o’ they bladder-headed friends o’ brewers. They don’ like wrinklin’ wi’ Jake; makes ’em blow too much when they has to carry a bushel o’ wrinkles, like I’ve a-done often, over the rocks an’ up the cliff, two or dree miles home. They Double-X Barrels can’t du that. Lord! can’t expect ’em to.—We’ll go in the Moondaisy t’morrow, an’ then if we can’t sail home, we can row, an’ if it comes on a fresh wind, we’ll haul her up to Refuge Cove an’ go’n look how my orchards be getting on.”

It is good to hear Uncle Jake talk about the work that nobody else will do. (The exposure alone would be too much for many of them.) His face wrinkles up within its grey picture-frame beard, his keen yet wistful eyes open wide, and he draws up that youthful body of his—clad in faded blue jumper and torn trousers—on which the head of a venerable old man seems so incongruously set. He is the owner of a big drifter which hardly pays her expenses; he feels that taking out pleasure parties is no work for a fisherman—‘never wasn’t used to be at the beck an’ call o’ they sort o’ people when I wer young’;—and therefore he picks up a living, laborious but very independent, between high and low tide mark for many miles east and west of Seacombe. Nobody learns exactly when or where he goes, nor what little valuables are in the old sack that he carries. He seldom sleeps for more than two hours on end; has breakfast at midnight, dinner in the early morning, and tea-supper only if it happens to be handy; and he feeds mainly on bread, cheese, sugar and much butter, with an occasional feast of half a dozen mackerel at once, or a skate or a small conger. Singularly straightforward in all his dealings, a little of the old West-country wrecking spirit yet survives in him, and he enjoys nothing better than smuggling jetsam past the coastguards. Social position saves no one from hearing what Uncle Jake thinks. His tongue is loaded with scorn and sarcasm, but his heart holds nothing but kindness. He will jeer and taunt a man off the Front, and give him money round the corner or food in house. His nicknames are terrible—they stick. Few would care to turn and fight such an old man, and if they did he would almost certainly knock them into the dust or throw them into the sea. He is childless; and, since her illness several years ago, his wife, an untidy woman with beautiful eyes, has been scatterbrained and more trouble than use, a spender of his savings. He nursed her himself for many months. He does most of the housework now. He may remark on his wife, if he knows you very well, but about the childlessness he never talks.

At eight in the morning we made sail with the wind just north of east. The little Moondaisy was full of sacks, old boots and gear. Past Refuge Cove we sailed, past Dog Tooth Ledge, and across the out-ground of Landlock Bay, which holds the last long stretch of pebble beach for some miles down. Uncle Jake pointed to the western end of it. “If ever yu’m catched down here by a sou’wester, yu can al’ays run ashore, just there—calm as a mill-pond no matter how ’tis blowing. Yu can beach there when yu can’t beach to Seacombe for the roughness o’ the sea. Aye, I’ve a-done it! But yu can’t get out o’ Landlock Bay, though I mind when you could climb up the cliff jest to the east’ard o’ thic roozing [landslip]. Howsbe-ever, ’tis a heavy gale from the south-east on a long spring tide as’ll drive ’ee out o’ thic cave there where the beach urns up. Now yu knows that: ’tisn’t all o’em does.”

Similar bits of lore or reminiscence did he give me about every few yards of the coastline. Most merrily had the easterly wind and a following sea brought us down. Now we drew near the rocks, where at high tide the land drops sheer to the water. In the dry sunshine, such a sparkle was on the waves, such a shimmer on the high red cliffs, that it was hard to follow Uncle Jake when he said, as if he revered the place, “’Tis an ironbound show! ’Tis a shop! Poor devils, what gets throwed up here! But I know where ther’s some fine copper bolts waiting for me. I’ll hae ’em! I’ve had some on ’em, an’ I’ll hae the rest when they rots out o’ the timbers. Year ’63 that wreck was—lovely vessel, loaded wi’ corn. I mind it well. ’Twas a night!”

AN IRONBOUND SHOW

We ran the Moondaisy ashore at Brandey-Keg Cove—a little beach running up into a deep gloomy cave where the smugglers used to store their cargoes and haul them up over the cliff. “Us can walk down to Lobster Ledge an’ west from there to Tatie Rock. I knows where they master gobbets be, if nobody an’t had ’em—an’ nobody an’t. They don’ like this iron-bound shop. They leaves it to Jake. But they wuden’t, if they know’d what was here.”

I ate some of my breakfast while Uncle Jake was changing his boots and shifting his outer clothing. He would accept only one of my small cheese sandwiches. “I got some bread and butter here,” he said, but I ‘took partic’lar notice,’ as Tony puts it, that he ate none of the bread and butter. And he refused to take a second sip of my tea because his sensitive nose detected that there had been whiskey in the bottle.

As we walked along the rocks, he placed above high-tide mark what bits of wreckage he could find, and kept a sharp look-out for any rabbits which might have fallen over the cliff. The only two we found, however, had been partially eaten by sea-gulls and rats. “Let ’em hae ’em an’ welcome,” said Uncle Jake. “The winter’s coming. I can’t think how they poor gulls lives when all the sea round about is a hustle o’ froth. I al’ays feeds ’em when I can. Don’t yu think that they gets hungry tu?”

At Lobster Ledge—a jumble of peaked rocks with pools between—he left his sack conspicuously on the top of a high stone, and hopped—seemed to hop—down to a pool. “They’m here!” he cried. I heard them clatter-clatter into his old cake tin, and then a tin-full rattle into his sack. On those rocks, where few can step at all without great care, he raced about, bent down double, and jumped and glided as actively as an acrobat—a veritable rock-man. “Come here!” he called. “Jest yu turn over thic stone. Ther’s some there. My senses, what gobbets they be! If they ther fuddle-heads what goes nosing about Broken Rocks, on’y know’d....”

Underneath the stone, clinging to it and lying on the bed of the pool, were so many large winkles that instead of picking them out, I found it quicker to sweep up handfuls of loose stuff and then to pick out the refuse from the winkles. When Uncle Jake came across an unusually good pocket he would call me to it and hop on somewhere else. There was an element of sport in catching the dull-looking gobbets so many together. I soon got to know the likely stones—heavy ones that wanted coaxing over,—and discovered also that the winkles hide themselves in a green, rather gelatinous weed, fuzzy like kale tops, from which they can be combed with the fingers. They love, too, a shadowed pool which is tainted a little, but not too much, by decaying vegetable matter. Uncle Jake likes the stones turned back and then replaced ‘as you finds ‘em.’

WHAT GOBBETS THEY BE!

I emptied my baler, holding perhaps a quart, into the ballast-bag. How one’s back ached! How old and rheumaticy had one’s knees suddenly become! Uncle Jake feels nothing of that, for all his sixty-five years. He still skipped from pool to pool. He flung me a lobster. “There! put that in your bag for tay. Tide’s dead low. The wind’s dying away: sun’s burnt it up. Shuden’ wonder if it don’t come in sou’west, an’ if it du we’ll hae a fair wind home along.—Well, how du ’ee like it? Eh?”

“All right.”

“Ah! yu ought to be down here in the winter, like I been, when you got to put your hands wet into your pockets to get ’em warm enough to feel the gobbets—aye, to hold ’em! Then carry ’em five mile home on your back to make ’ee warm again.”

So we went on: grab, grab, grab! clatter-clatter! rattle! We talked less and worked harder, because we were tired. The tide crept up. The wind veered to south-east and strengthened. “’Tis time to be off out of thees yer,” said Uncle Jake. “The lop’ll rise when the flid tide makes. Yu may know everything there is to know about fishing, but,” he added grimly, “if yu don’ know when to be off, ’twill all o’it be no gude to ’ee some day. Blast thees wind! We’ll hae to row home now, or ratch out a couple o’ miles to fetch in.”

We shouldered our sacks for the half-mile walk to the Moondaisy. Walk.... Scramble! Uncle Jake seemed to glide from rock to rock, but with two or three stone weight awkwardly perched on my shoulder, the wet running down my neck and an arm going numb, I slithered down the weed-covered slopes in a very breakneck fashion. I rather felt for the bladderheads who refuse to go wrinkling far from home.

CAUGHT BY THE TIDE

Afloat again, we used the winkles for ballast in place of shingle. The lop had made, and was against us. We rowed up Landlock Bay to the western side of Dog Tooth Ledge. Uncle Jake made an exclamation and stood up. “What’s that? Whoever’s that? There! down there to Lobster Ledge! A gen’leman an’ lady, looks so. How did us come to miss they? Look! They’m sittin’ down, the fules!—Hi, yu! Hi! Hi!—They’m catched. When yu see the water washing over the Dog’s Tooth, yu can’t get round the ledge wi’out swimming.—Hi, yu! Hi!—They’m in for a night o’it sure, till the tide falls, if we don’ take ’em round to Refuge Cove. Ther’s nowhere there where they be, to get upon land.—Hi! Hi! Yu!—They’m mazed. An’ her an’t got no stockings on nuther.—Hi! hi! Hurry up!—Can’t bide here all day. The flid and the sea’s making fast.”

They came on at a leisurely pace. The Dog’s Tooth was continuously awash. Spray broke on it. “D’yu know,” said Uncle Jake when they were near enough, “that yu’m catched by the tide? Yu’m in for a night o’it on this yer beach, wi’out yu swims round the ledge or lets we row yu to the lane in Refuge Cove. Yu can’t get up on land herefrom.”

“Oh....” said the man. “We’d better come on board your boat then.”

It took Uncle Jake nearly half-an-hour to row the three-quarters of a mile across the tide-rip on the ledge and into Refuge Cove. I carefully refrained from doing anything to lead them to suppose that they were aboard other than a fishing boat. It was Uncle Jake’s expedition: his the prospective reward. When I helped the man ashore, he put some coppers into my hand. “There’s threepence for the old man’s tobacco,” he said with an air of great benevolence. I was too surprised to speak: I pushed off and then burst into a laugh.

“What did ’er give ’ee?”

“Threepence. Threepence! For your tobacco!”

“Thank yu. I don’t use tobacco. Yu’d better keep thic donation. They’d ha’ catched their death o’ cold there all night, an’ there ain’t no other boats down here along, nor won’t be. That’s what they reckons their bloody lives be worth, an’ that’s what the lives of the likes o’ they be worth, tu! Dreepence! My senses....”

We roared with laughter. It put heart into us for our stiff row home against wind, wave and tide. When I went for’ard to place the cut-rope ready, Uncle Jake had to call me aft again: spite of his strength the boat was being beaten to leeward.

It was nearly four o’clock when we had hauled up and were carrying the winkles on our backs down one of the untidy little roadways into Under Town. No dinner or high-tea was waiting for Uncle Jake. The house was unswept. How draggled the little bits of fern in the old china pots looked! The fire was out; the hearth piled up with ashes; and on the table stood a basin of potatoes in water, most of them unpeeled.

Uncle Jake came to a standstill, acutely alive in the midst of a domestic deadness. He raised himself upright beneath his load of winkles. “That’s what I got to put up wi’,” he said. “An’t had a bite since breakfast at four by the clock this morning, ’cept thic sandwich o’ yours. Tis a wonder how I du put up wi’ it. I don’ know for sure.”

MEASURING UP

“Thees is what I got to put up wi’!” he repeated when Mrs Jake came in from a neighbour’s.

“I forgot,” she said with a gay high-pitched little laugh which had in it a tang of acquiescent despair—the echo of a mind that has ceased fighting anything, even itself.

“Forgot! Yu forgets!” Then in a softer tone: “Gie us the quart cup.”

He emptied my winkles out upon the stone floor, knelt down, and measured them back into the ballast-bag: “one—two—three—four, that’s one—five—six—seven—eight, that’s two pecks—nine—ten—half a peck over; good for you, skipper!” He had four pecks himself, together with several small lobsters which he threw out to me.

“But you’ll eat those....”

“No, I shan’t. Don’t want ’em. Take ’em in home for yer tay.”

Then he hunted out of an inside breast-pocket a screw of newspaper, and from it took a half-crown piece:

“That’s your share.”

“But....”

“Go on! If you hadn’ a-come I should ha’ been the poorer by more’n that, an’ that’s what one o’ they beery bladderheads would ha’ had if they’d a-come—on’y I won’t hae ’em ’long wi’ me. Better yu to hae it than one o’ they, to gie to the brewer. I wishes ’ee to take it. Yu’ve earned it, an’ thank yu for your help. I done all right out o’it.”

The Regatta has gone off well. The day was fine, the wind nor’west and not too squally. There was a brave show of bunting; very many people and several bands came down to the short Front; and there were races on the water, in the water, and, in the evening, on land. The sea sparkled. The place was all of a flutter. Uncle Jake, irritated by the invasion of his beach, became most scornful over the abundance of high starched collars, and the kid gloves of the shop-assistants. Some of the young Seacombe braves collected round to tease him and, if possible, to work him into one of his famous passions. But they dared not so much as nudge him; he is too earnest, too vigorous. He lashed them off with his tongue. And when a dinghy capsized through trying to sail off the wind in a squall, it was the old man who was quickest at the water’s edge with a punt, and first on the spot, although a four-oared boat raced out to the rescue.

REGATTA

Some of the Widgers won races, I believe. One takes no great note of prizes: they are too small. The Regatta is not primarily an affair of the fisherfolk; to take any great part in it would be to neglect their own work; and when they do race, they have a neat method of defeating the patronage of the townsfolk who provide prize-money in order that they and the visitors may enjoy the spectacle of fishermen (in fisher phrase) pulling their insides out for nort. The prize-money is pooled and divided among all the competitors. In consequence, the races are rowed and sailed with great dignity, and many of the visitors excite themselves halfway to delirium over the extreme—the make-believe closeness of the finishes. It is not very sporting perhaps, but indulgence in the sporting spirit is for those who can afford it. The Seacombe fisherfolk can’t.

A confounding number of the Widger family and its connexions arrived by boat, road and rail. Two or three grand teas were provided one after the other. Mrs Widger—looking really very young, alert, and pretty—packed the children off to the beach with gentry-cakes in their hands. Well she did so, for every chair in the kitchen was occupied by some relative, and the display of best clothes was most alarming. Worst of all, one party had brought the family idiot—a simpering, lollopy creature, stiff in the wrong places, who could not feed himself properly. With a vigorous tapping of the forehead, he was pointed out to me. “He’s a little deeficient, you know, sir—something lacking.” The idiot, finding himself the centre of attraction, fairly crowed with delight. “Ou-ah!” he went. “Ou-ah! ou-ah!”

On the pretext that a boat wanted hauling up, I escaped, with a piece of bread and jam in my hand, like the children.

A man of slightly unsober dignity accosted me in the Gut, and asked if Jim somebody-or-other was within. “Him and me don’t speak, nor eet meet,” he explained. “I won’t hae nort to do wi’ he, nor enter the house where he is, for all we be related.—Come an’ have a drink ’long wi’ me, sir; now du; I asks ’ee.—’Tis safer, yu know, for us not to meet.”

For the second time I lied, and escaped.

THE VETERANS’ RACE

Uncle Jake ran up from the beach. “Yer!” he said, “there’s a race to Saltmeadow, a veteran’s race, for men over fifty. Yu come wi’ me, an’ I’ll go in for it—an’ beat the lot, I will. I knows I can.” Off we went, Uncle Jake in a high excitement. At the centre of the big oblong ring, two clean-built jumpers, men in the heyday of their strength, were making a local record for the high jump. Uncle Jake shouted out praise and sympathy to them. We found our way to where the veterans were grouped together, encouraging each other to enter with much foul language—which made them feel young again, no doubt. What a lot they were! some aged to thinness, others become fat and piggish. Only Uncle Jake appeared quite sound in wind and limb. He took off his boots and stockings, walked into the ring with a fine imitation of the athlete’s swagger combined with a curious touch of shyness. “Go it Uncle Jake!” they shouted. At the end of the first lap, he found himself so far ahead that he threw his old round sailor’s cap high into the air and caught it, and he skipped along to the winning-post like a young lamb. A great cheer was echoed from cliff to cliff. Uncle Jake has not spoken his mind all his life for nothing. Seacombe does not unanimously like him, but it has the sense to be rather proud of him. A veterans’ race is usually a sad spectacle, a grotesque memento mori: for Uncle Jake ’twas a triumph.

The next great sight of the evening was to watch the fishermen from other villages put off to their boats. Most of them were ‘half seas over,’ some nearly helpless. They were thrown aboard from the punts and had their sails hoisted for them; or, if they did it themselves, it was with most comic jerks. The gods, who undoubtedly have a tenderness for drunkards—why not?—must have looked after them, for no news has come of any accident.

On returning in house, I met Tony with several of his men relatives. He drew me aside. “Maybe I’ll come home drunk to-night, but I promise ’ee I won’t disturb ’ee, an’ if yu hears ort—well, yu’ll know, won’ ’ee?”

For some reason not easily to be fathomed his kindly warning made me feel ashamed of my own sobriety, ashamed that I dared not ‘go on the bust’ with him. I firmly believe that it does a man good to ‘go on the bust’ occasionally. It develops fellow-feeling. And besides, who has the right to cast a stone at a man for snatching a little jollity when he may, be it alcoholic or not? The truth is, that Tony, who has no craving for drink, was prepared to plunge into the fastest current of the life around him, and to take his chance, whilst I, for niggardly, self-preservative, prudential reasons, was not.

However, he came home quite sober.

THE SQUARE’S AWAKENING

Up-country, next week, I shall greatly miss my window overlooking Alexandra Square. I have lived (rebelliously) in suburban streets where only clattering feet, tradesmen’s carts and pitiful street singers broke the monotony; in a Paris chambre à garçon, au sixième, where the view was roofs and the noise of the city was attenuated to a murmur; in country houses which looked out on sweeps of hill, down, vale and sea, so changeable and lovely that they were dreamlike and as a dream abide in the memory.... Here I have quick human life just below my window, and—up the Gut—a view of the sea unbroken hence to the horizon; a patch of water framed on three sides by straight walls and on the fourth by the sky-line; a miniature ocean across which the drifters sail to the western offing, and the little boats curvet to and fro, and

The stately ships go on
To their haven under the hill.

There is always, here, a sound of the sea. When, at night, the Square is still, it seems to advance, to come nearer, to be claiming one for its own.

But the Square, though still at night compared with daytime, is never dead, never absolutely asleep. Fishermen returning from sea crunch on the gravel. Lights in the windows (most of the people seem to burn night lamps) give it a cosy appearance; the cats make one think that fiends are pouring out of hell, through a hole in the roadway. Peep o’ day is the stillest time of all. The cats seat themselves on walls. Sparrows chirp sleepily. Some rooks and a hoary-headed jackdaw come down from the trees nearby, quarter the roadway for garbage, and fly away croaking. Busy starlings follow. If the weather is hard and fish offal scarce on the beach, the gulls will pay us a supercilious visit. About six o’clock the children begin singing in bed, and soon afterwards one hears the familiar conversation of families getting up. “Edie! what for the Lord’s sake be yu doing? Yu’ll catch your death o’ cold. Johnnie, if yu don’t make haste, I’ll knock your head off, I will!” A child or two may cry, but on the whole their merriment does not seem greatly damped by their mothers’ blood-curdling threats. I hear also, but not very often, the shrill wailing monotone, the weep dissolved in a shout, of a woman upbraiding her man for the previous night.

The children being dressed, but not washed (it is useless to wash the average child very long before sending it off to school), they run out to the beach to see what there is to be seen and to inspect the ash-buckets for treasure. An ash-bucket is Eldorado to them. If nothing is happening, are they at a loss for something to do? By no means. They come in house, fetch out tin cans, and beat them in a procession round the Square.

The milkmen arrive, then several greengrocers. One would think that Under Town lived on vegetables. The explanation is that the greengrocers can come here, and, in tidying up their carts, can throw their refuse upon the roadway, as they would not be allowed to do in ‘higher class’ streets. They swear genially at the housewives, and are forgiven.

So the work and gossip of the day goes on, with a slight quieting down in the afternoon and an incredible amount of conversation after work, in the evening.

THE ALEXANDRA BACK-DOOR

On Sundays, the great fact of best clothes lends a different and, to my mind, a less pleasant—a harder—tone to the children’s voices. But their merriment cannot wholly be suppressed. Did those who dislike the Salvation Army wish to illustrate its shortcomings, they could find a biting satire ready-made by the children of Under Town. A fat small boy comes round here, who has attentively studied the meetings; who can copy the canting, up-and-down, gentle-explosive, the Behold I am saved, ye sinners! tone to a nicety. He marches at the head of a band of serious infants who bear rags, tied to sticks and parasols, as banners. Every now and then he circles them to a standstill for an harangue about blood, fire and Jesus. (It is the gory part which delights him.) Then the procession re-forms, imitating brass instruments as unbroken voices can, and singing a Salvation hymn. They are earnest, the children; except Tommy Widger, whose irrepressible spirit causes him to march in the rear with a mocking dance and an infinitely grotesque squint. He is a pagan. He can turn the children’s serious imitation into roaring Aristophanic farce. He represents the healthful laughing element of an age wherein rest from sorrow is too much sought in fever. He infects us all with jollity.

The back-door of the Alexandra, which opens on the Gut, is my home comedy. It is strangely fascinating; sad in a way, but very human; for nothing on earth, except one or two of the very great things of life, is so democratic as the back-door of a public house. Soon after breakfast, or even before, the tradesmen sneak round for their pick-me-ups. Then the housewives go for their jugs of ale and stout. Some people never enter the Alexandra except by the back way. They march down the Gut as if on important business; then, in the twinkling of an eye, they are gone within. One worn little woman, who wears a loose cape and a squalid sailor hat, walks up and down the Gut till it is completely clear, then jumps into the door, and closes it very quietly. When she comes out again it is as a rabbit comes from a bolt-hole when a ferret is just behind. She runs five yards, stands still, looks up and down, and tries very hard to walk home unconcernedly. Sunday evenings, she hangs about outside until the bar is opened. With the turn of the key, in she goes. Once a servant, gossiping with her sailorman, kept the little woman outside for fully ten minutes after the lock was shot back. Poor little woman, how great her craving must be!

Last week, I saw a policeman standing at the top of the Gut. Up he looked; down he looked; Seacombe was orderly. Stepping as if to arrest a malefactor, he marched down the Gut.... Where was the policeman? A battered billycock and a rakish pipe looked round the corner, then withdrew. The battered billycock knew where the policeman was. The price of a glass, and billycock would have been there too.

I was glad; for a few days before that the same policeman had arrested a man by flinging him halfway across the street into the mud. It was only a tramp. His witnesses, being poor people, dared not volunteer to give evidence on his behalf, and would not have been believed had they done so. He was sentenced to fourteen days: drunk and incapable, abusive moreover. A drunkard cannot legally be arrested unless he is also incapable or disorderly. It used to be a trick of the police to shadow a harmless Weary Willie until he happened to stumble, or even to butt him down themselves. He then becomes drunk and incapable within the meaning of the act, for, if the magistrate should doubt, is there not dirt on his clothes? Obviously, circumstantially, he was incapable. He, of course, must be a poor man. The trick is not safe with tradesmen. These things are commonplaces amongst the poor.

But billycock hat will not forget!

MACKEREL DRIFTING

Yesterday morning early there was a great excitement along the beach. Drift-boats could be seen in the offing. “I tell thee what ’tis,” they said, “the whiting be in an’ us chaps an’t been out to look for ’em. Us don’t du nort nowadays like us used tu.” Later on, however, we heard that the Plymouth drifters had been out after an autumn shoal of mackerel, had caught some thousands and had made good prices. The season for mackerel drifting here usually ends with July or August, but good October mackerel, mixed with herring, have occasionally been caught. Tony, John and myself decided to put to sea. When the other boats saw our fleet of nets being hauled aboard (in a furious hurry), they fitted out too.

We shoved off just before dark. The wind was strongish WSW.—off land, that is—so that inshore the sea was almost calm, except for the swell running in from outside. What it was like outside the white horses and the wind-streaks showed. Hardly had we gone half a mile before we heard the queer clutching noise which meant that a strong puff of wind had compelled Tony to let the sheet fly. The squall past, he hauled it in again, put his legs across the stern and hung on. We sailed eight miles from land in ten minutes under the hour—speed, that, for a twenty-two-foot open boat with its mainsail reefed! Where we downhauled to shoot the nets, the sea, unsheltered by cliffs and headlands, was—as Tony beautifully put it—‘rising all up in heaps.’ Whilst I was trying to keep the boat before the wind, for net-shooting, a great comber plopped over the stern right upon my back. The sky was weird. Great wind-drifts of rain-cloud constantly spread out from the west, and wolves, higher up in the sky, were driving across the moon. We heated tea, but did not try to sleep. Tony and John kept up a curious dialogue. “What do ’ee think o’ it, then?”

“’Tisn’t vitty. I said so all along.”

HAULING INBOARD

“If a skat o’ rain comes—and ’tis raining on land, seems so—the wind’ll back out to sou’west, an’ us’ll hae to rin for it. A perty lop’ll get up tu, an’ we’m more’n a mile from land.”

“Us’ll haul in be ’leven. No gude hanging on out here. If the wind du back....”

I have never heard them talk so much about the weather. And all the while, the sky drove into splendid cloud-forms, all windy, nearly all rainy. We lost the Eddystone light, then lost the Seacombe light and recovered the former, as a storm drifted along shore. From time to time we thought the wind was backing a bit.

Supper, for me, had to be crammed down on a rather queasy stomach. “We’m all ways to once!” Tony remarked. The wind did definitely back a point or two. “Only let it once die away,” said Tony in the tone of I told you so; “then yu’ll see how it can spring from the sou’west when ’tis a-minded.”

One minute I wished myself home, safe in bed, and thought with grotesque grief of some unfinished work. Next minute, I knew that I would not have missed the night out there for any consideration. The grey, slightly sheeny boil of the sea around us; the sweeping savagery of the sky; the intimacy of the waters....

But we were all relieved when eleven o’clock came. The watchfulness was a strain.

When one is steering instead of hauling, the getting-in of nine forty-fathom nets seems interminable. One net, two nets, three nets—a third of nine,—four, five—more than half the fleet,—six—two-thirds of nine,—seven, eight—nine all but one;—and so on, with an occasional wave coming inboard, until the very last square buoy comes bobbing towards the boat; hand over hand, buoy by buoy, net by net, holding fast when the pull of the tide is too strong, and pausing irritably to pick out the fish. We stepped the great mast, shifted all the ballast to wind’ard. John came aft to steer, and seated himself on the counter, a strangely powerful, statuesque figure in his wet oilskins. “Have ’ee got the sheet in yer hand?” Tony called out from the bows.

John did not trouble to reply.

“Have ’ee got the sheet in yer hand, John?”

“No, I an’t! What the hell do ’ee want the sheet for? Wind’s abeam.”

“Might want it bad,” said Tony.

A REMBRANDTESQUE PICTURE

We left it fast however; and with the same, an elemental passion took possession of my mind; ousted all else. I had been anxious about the sheet, had thought John foolhardy. Now I didn’t care. I could have cried out aloud for joy as the brave old craft rose to the seas with a marvellous easy motion and the waves came skatting in over the bows. Before long, I was on my knees with the baler; John was getting every inch out of the wind, and Tony was standing abaft the nets with the sheet dangling through his hand. By the light of the riding-lamp on the mizzen mast (its glass patched with an old jam cover), they in their angular wet oil-skins—the rain was pelting—and the rich wet brown of the boat’s varnish, made a wonderful Rembrandtesque picture. I hardly know how long we were sailing home; it slipped my mind to take the time. About two o’clock I was halfway down the beach with Tony cursing above me and John doing the same below. Someone had ‘messed up’ our capstan wire. While Tony was putting that right in the dark—and pinching his fingers severely—the boat washed broadside on and began to fill. We had only five dozen fish. They sold badly.

In time, and with practice, I could, I believe, do most that these fishermen do except one thing: I doubt I could stand the racket of my own thoughts. Tony and John would go out to-night, to-morrow, every night. But I have slept so dead (not from bodily tiredness) that, the door being bolted against the children, they were unable to waken me for dinner, and in the end Tony told them to ‘let the poor beast bide.’ Of what nature was that passion, so exultant and so tiring? Are these fishermen so used to it that they ‘don’t take much note o’it’? For they feel it. I have seen it in their faces. One can always tell. The eyes widen and brighten; hasty movements become so desperately cool. If what was an episode in my life, is part and parcel of theirs, how much the better for them!

To-day the sea passion, or whatever it is, came again.

While I was asleep, the wind backed and freshened. Balks of wood from a naval target kept washing in. Balks make winter firing when coal is dear and money scarce. Boats had been bringing them in all the morning, till the sea became too rough. Tony had none however. In the afternoon he complained bitterly:

“They all got some wude but me, an’ us an’t got enough in house for the winter nuther.” Just then we saw a large piece washing along on the flood tide over the outside of Broken Rocks. “Get a rope—grass rope, mind. Down with her. The Cock Robin! Quick. Jump aboard. Take oars. Hurry up casn’? Get hold thic oar. Look out!”

OUT AFTER FLOTSAM

No time to wait for a smooth. Tony shoved the Cock Robin into a surf we should not otherwise have thought of facing. As it turned out, we got off better than we usually do in only a moderate sea, though we should have capsized to a certainty had the boat sheered. ’Twas, “Look out! Damme, look out! Here’s a swell coming! Get her head to it or we’m over. Gude for us!” Some of the waves, rising and topping in the shallow water over the rocks, seemed to make the Cock Robin sit upright on her stern, like a dog begging, and the higher the seas rose the more we gloried in them. Sufficient for the moment was the wave thereof. We swore at each other in a sort of chant. I had to repress an impulse to jump overboard and swim to the balk, instead of trying to work up to it with a boat that had, every other moment, to be turned bows on to the sea. The slightest error of judgment on Tony’s part, and we should indeed have swum for it. I had such a curious feeling of being in the sea—as much a part of it as the waves themselves—that the affair ceased to be a struggle. It became a glorious great big game. Yet for work we were so cool that, though we towed our balk ashore and shoved off after another, we hardly got wet above the knees.

We were beside ourselves, and all ourselves. Where does that exultant feeling, that devil-beyond-oneself, come from? From what depth of human personality does it uprise, whirling, like those primitive passions—sex, hunger, rage, fear—which may be boxed up awhile by the will, but which, once unloosed, sweep the will aside and carry one off like froth in a gale, until physical exhaustion sets in and allows the will to re-assert itself? One understands the evolution of the primitive self-preservative and race-preservative passions. How has this latent daredevilry become so implanted in us that it rises from the bottom depths of one’s nature; and how has it become ordinarily so hidden?

Above all what is the effect of this passion on seafaring men? To say that familiarity breeds contempt is—even if it be correct—to beg the question. What is the effect of that familiarity? It might be said that they are the subjects of a sub-acute, persistent form of the daredevilry which uprose in me unexpectedly and acutely. But again, the sub-acute lifelong form of it is likely to have the greater influence on a man’s self, on his morale and his character. Hence, I believe, the width of these men, their largeness. It was good to hear Tony talk in the most matter-of-fact manner (yet with a touch of reverence, as towards an ever-possible contingency) of a Salcombe fisherman who was drowned. “Her was drownded all through his own carelessness, and didn’t rise in the water for a month. (’Tis nine days down and nine days up, wi’ the crab bites out of ’ee, as a rule.) An’ he wer carried up by the tide an’ collected, like, out o’ the water just at the back o’ his own house. Nice quiet chap he was.” That coolness of speech one saw plainly, is the outcome not of contempt, still less of non-feeling, but of familiarity, of a breadth of mind in looking at the catastrophe. I have not noticed such breadth of mind elsewhere except among those who live precariously and the few of very great religious faith.

An hour after bringing in the balks, we were hauling the boats over the wall, and at high tide the seas swept across the road.

A SING-SONG

Many an evening we have had small sing-songs in the kitchen. To-night, on account of my going and the need to give me a cheery send-off, we had quite a concert. Tony was star.

Supper being pushed back on the table and a piece of wreckage flung on the fire, he made himself ready by taking off his soaked boots and stockings, and plumping his feet on Mam Widger’s lap; then brought himself into the vocal mood with a long rigmarole that he used to recite with the Mummers at Christmas time. Soon we were humming, whistling and singing “Sweet Evelina,” whose sole musical merit is that her chorus goes with a swing. The fire crackled and burnt blue. The fragrant steam of the grog rose to the ceiling and settled on the window. We leaned right back in our chairs.

“Missis,” said Tony, “I feels like zingin’ to-night.”

“Wait a minute while I shuts the door, else they kids’ll be down for more supper.”

“Us got it, an’t us?”

“Yes, but they’ve had enough.”

When Tony sings, he throws his head back and closes his eyes, so that, but for the motions of his mouth, he looks asleep, even deathlike, and is, in fact, withdrawn into himself.

I think he sees his songs, as well as sings them. I often wonder what pictures are flitting through his mind beneath (as I imagine) the place where the thick grizzled hair thins to the red forehead. His voice is a high tenor. I make accompaniment an octave below, whilst Mrs Widger—a little nasal in tone and not infrequently adrift in tune—supports him from above.

We sang “The Poor Smuggler’s Boy”—

Your pity I crave,
Won’t you give me employ?
Or forlorn I must wander,
Said the poor smuggler’s boy.

Then the “Skipper and his Boy”—

Over the mounting waves so ’igh,
We’ll sail together, my boy and I-I,
We’ll sail together, my bo-oy and I!

“Have ’ee wrote to George?” Tony asked.

“’Tis your place to du that.”

“I an’t got time....”

“Thee asn’t got time for nort!”

The fisher’s is a merry life!
    Blow, winds, blow!
The fisher and his vitty wife!
    Row, boys, row!
He drives no plough on stubborn land,
His fruits are ready to his hand.
No nipping frosts his orchards fear,
He has his autumn all the year,
    Blow, winds, blow!

The farmer has his rent to pay,
    Blow, winds, blow!
And seeds to purchase every day,
    Row, boys, row!
But he who farms the rolling deep,
He never sows, can always reap,
The ocean’s fields are fair and free,
There ain’t no rent days on the sea;
  The fisher’s is a merry life!
    Blow, winds, blow!
    Blow, damn ye, blow!

“Aye!” said Tony with conviction, “thic’s one side o’it.”

" ROLLING HOME "

He tried a note or two at different pitches, then struck with energy into the fine song, “Rolling Home.” (Who that has steered for England in a ship—and by ship I do not mean a bustling steam-packet or a floating hotel, but a ship to whose crew England stands for fresh food, women, wine, home.... Who that has so steered the course for England, does not feel a catch at his vitals on hearing the melody, at once plaintive and triumphant, of “Rolling Home?”)

Pipe all hands to man the capstan, see your cables run down clear;
Soon our ship will weigh her anchor, for old England’s shores we steer;
If we heave round with a will boys, soon our anchor it will trip,
And across the briny ocean we will steer our gallant ship:
        Rolling home, rolling home!
        Rolling home across the sea!
        Rolling home to Merrie England!
        Rolling home, true love, to thee!

Man the bars then with a will, boys, clap all hands that can clap on;
As we heave around the capstan, we will sing this well-known song;
It will bring back scenes and changes of this parting gift so rare;
We shall hear sweet songs of music softly whispering through the air.
        Rolling home, rolling home!
        Rolling home across the sea!
        Rolling home to Merrie England!
        Rolling home, true love, to thee!

Up aloft amid the rigging, as we sail the waters blue,
Whilst we cross the briny ocean, we will always think of you;
We will leave you our best wishes as we leave this rocky shore;
We are bound for Merrie England, to return to you no more!
        Rolling home, rolling home!
        Rolling home, across the sea!
        Rolling home to Merrie England!
        Rolling home, my love to thee!

To Mrs Widger’s great disgust, Tony has been learning in bed the correct words (he knew the tune) of “Gay Spanish Ladies.” That he gave us as a finale.

Farewell and adieu to you, gay Spanish Ladies.
Farewell and adieu to you, Ladies of Spain!
For we’ve received orders for to sail for old England.
But we hope in a short time to see you again.

We’ll rant and we’ll roar like true British heroes,
We’ll rant and we’ll roar across the salt seas,
Until we strike soundings in the Channel of old England.
From Ushant to Scilly is thirty-five leagues....

How we did rant and roar the wonderful up-Channel verse, with its clever use of the high-sounding promontories of the south!

The first land we made, it was called the Deadman,
Next Ram Head off Plymouth, Start, Portland and Wight,
We passed up by Beachy, by Parley and Dungeness,
And hove our ship to off the South Foreland light....

Our glasses were empty. We drove out the cat, gutted some fish, extinguished the lamp, and came upstairs to the tune, repeated, of “Rolling Home.” All the tunes are ringing in my head.

ART THAT IS LIVED

There is something about this singing of sea-songs by a seafarer which makes them grip one extraordinarily. They are far from perfect in execution, they are not always quite in tune, especially on Tony’s high notes, yet, I am certain, they are as artistic in the best sense as any of the fine music I have heard. Tony sings with imagination: he sees, lives what he is singing. Between this sort of song and most, there is much the same difference as between going abroad, and reading a book of travels; or between singing folk-songs with the folk and twittering bowdlerised versions in a drawing-room. However imperfect technically, Tony’s songs are an expression of the life he lives, rather than an excursion into the realms of art—into the expression of other kinds of life—with temporarily stimulated and projected imagination. His art is perpetual creation, not repetition of a thing created once and for all. The art that is lived, howsoever imperfect, has an advantage over the most finished art that is merely repeated. Next after the music of, as one might say, superhuman creative force—like Bach’s and Beethoven’s—comes this kind, of Tony’s.

Cultured people talk about the artistic tastes of the poor, would have them read—well, they don’t quite know what—something ‘good,’ something namely that appeals to the cultured. It has always been my experience in much lending of books, that the poor will read the literature of life’s fundamental daily realities quickly enough, once they know of its existence. What they will not read, what in the struggle for existence they cannot waste time over, is the literature of the etceteras of life, the decorations, the vapourings. Sane minds, like healthy bodies, crave strong meats, and the strong meats of literature are usually the worst cooked. I am inclined to think that the taste of the poor, the uneducated, is on the right lines, though undeveloped, whilst the taste of the educated consists of beautifully developed wrongness, an exquisite secession from reality. As Nietzsche pointed out, degenerates love narcotics; something to make them forget life, not face it. Their meats must be strange and peptonized. Therefore they hate, they are afraid of, the greatest things in life—the commonplace. Much culture has debilitated them. Rank life would kill them—or save them.

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